Start BMW 3 SERIES 1985 E30 User Guide

them to the new cap in the exact same
location - do not simultaneously remove all
the HT leads, or firing order mix-ups may
occur.
16 Manual transmission
lubricant level check
1
1The transmission has a filler/level plug
which must be removed to check the lubricant
level. If the vehicle is raised to gain access to
the plug, be sure to support it safely - do not
crawl under a vehicle which is supported only
by a jack!Note:The vehicle should be level to
give an accurate lubricant check.
2Remove the plug from the side of thetransmission (see illustration)and use your
little finger to reach inside the plug from the
housing and feel the lubricant level. It should
be at or very near the bottom of the plug hole.
3If it isn’t, add the recommended lubricant
through the plug hole with a syringe or
squeeze-bottle, until it just starts to run out of
the hole. Refer to “Lubricants and fluids” at
the beginning of this Chapter for the correct
lubricant type. The manual transmissions on
some later or high-performance models are
filled with automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
Such transmissions normally carry a sticker to
this effect near the filler/level plug. Refer to a
BMW dealer if still in doubt.
4Refit the plug and tighten securely. Check
for leaks after the first few miles of driving.
5If regular topping-up is required, this can
only be due to a leak which should be found
and repaired before it becomes serious.17 Differential lubricant level
check
1
1The differential has a filler/level plug which
must be removed to check the lubricant level.
If the vehicle is raised to gain access to the
plug, be sure to support it safely - do notcrawl under the vehicle when it’s supported
only by the jack! Note:The vehicle should be
level to give an accurate lubricant check.
2Remove the filler/level plug from the
differential (see illustration). Use an Allen key
to unscrew the plug.
3Use your little finger as a dipstick to make
sure the lubricant level is up to the bottom of
the plug hole. If not, use a syringe or squeeze-
bottle to add the recommended lubricant until
it just starts to run out of the hole.
4Refit the plug and tighten it securely.
5If regular topping-up is required, this can
only be due to a leak which should be found
and repaired before it becomes serious.
18 Valve clearances -
check and adjustment
3
Note:This procedure does not apply to the
M40 engine, which has automatic adjusters.
1The valve clearances can be checked with
the engine hot or cold, but note that different
values are specified, depending on engine
temperature. If it is wished to check/adjust the
valve clearances with the engine hot, if
necessary start and run the engine until it
reaches normal operating temperature, then
shut it off.
Caution: If the clearances are checked
with the engine hot, extra care
must be taken to avoid burns.
2Remove the valve cover
from the engine (see Chapter 2A).
3Turn the engine as necessary until No 1
piston (front) is at Top Dead Centre (TDC) on
the compression stroke (see Chapter 2A).
4Check the valve clearances for No 1
cylinder. The valve clearances can be found in
the Specifications Section at the beginning of
this Chapter.
5The clearance is measured by inserting the
specified size feeler gauge between the end
of the valve stem and the rocker arm adjusting
eccentric. You should feel a slight amount of
1•19
15.11d The rotor arm should be checked
for wear and corrosion as indicated here
(if in doubt about its condition, buy a new
one)
15.11c Shown here are some of the
common defects to look for when
inspecting the distributor cap (if in doubt
about its condition, fit a new one)
18.6 The valve clearance is adjusted by
turning the eccentric with a wire hook -
once the specified clearance is obtained,
tighten the locknut with a spanner, then
remove the feeler gauge17.2 Remove the differential filler/level
plug with an Allen key, and make sure the
lubricant is level with the bottom of the
hole16.2 Use a large Allen key to remove the
filler/level plug (arrowed) and check the
lubricant level with your little finger. It
should be level with the bottom of the hole
- if it’s low, add lubricant
1
Every 12 000 miles

drag when the feeler gauge is moved back
and forth.
6If the gap is too large or too small, loosen
the locknut, insert a hook made from large-
diameter metal wire, and rotate the eccentric
to obtain the correct gap (see illustration).
7Once the gap has been set, hold the
eccentric in position with the hook, and
retighten the locknut securely. Recheck the
clearance - sometimes it’ll change slightly
when the locknut is tightened. If so, re-adjust
until it’s correct.
8On the M10 engine, the valves are adjusted
in the firing order, which is 1-3-4-2. After
adjusting No 1 cylinder valves, rotate the
crankshaft half a turn (180º), then check and
adjust the valves on No 3 cylinder. Repeat the
procedure on the remaining cylinders.
9On M20 and M30 engines, the valves are
adjusted following the firing order, which is
1-5-3-6-2-4. After adjusting No 1 cylinder
valves, rotate the crankshaft a third of a turn
(120º), then check and adjust the valves on No
5 cylinder. Repeat the procedure for the
remaining cylinders.
10Refit the valve cover (use a new gasket)
and tighten the mounting nuts evenly and
securely.
11Start the engine and check for oil leakage
between the valve cover and the cylinder
head.19 Throttle linkage -
check and lubrication
1
1The throttle linkage should be checked and
lubricated periodically to ensure its proper
operation.
2Check the linkage to make sure it isn’t
binding.
3Inspect the linkage joints for looseness, and
the connections for corrosion and damage,
renewing parts as necessary (see
illustration).
4Lubricate the connections with spray
lubricant or lithium-based grease.
20 Air filter renewal
1
Carburettor engines
1Release the spring clips, then unscrew the
centre nut and lift off the cover.
2Remove the air filter element, and wipe
clean the air cleaner body and cover
3Fit the new air filter element, then refit the
cover using a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Fuel injection engines
4Loosen the clamp on the air intake duct,
and detach the duct (see illustration).5Release the air cleaner cover retaining clips
(see illustration).
6Rotate the cover up, lift it off and lift the
element out, noting which way round it is
fitted (see illustrations).
7Wipe the inside of the air cleaner housing
with a clean cloth, then fit the new element. If
the element is marked TOP, be sure the
marked side faces up.
8Refit the cover and secure the clips.
9Connect the air duct and tighten the clamp
screw.
21 Fuel system check
1
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. Work in a well-
ventilated area. If you spill any fuel on your
skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and
water. When you perform any kind of work
on the fuel system, wear safety glasses,
and have a fire extinguisher on hand. Mop
up spills immediately, but do not store
fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.
1If you smell fuel while driving or after the
vehicle has been sitting in the sun, inspect the
fuel system immediately.
2Remove the fuel filler cap and inspect it for
damage and corrosion. The gasket should
have an unbroken sealing imprint. If the
gasket is damaged or corroded, fit a new cap.
3Inspect the fuel feed and return lines for
cracks. Make sure that the connections
between the fuel lines and the carburettor or
fuel injection system, and between the fuel
lines and the in-line fuel filter, are tight.
Warning: On fuel injection
models, the fuel system must be
depressurised before servicing
fuel system components, as
outlined in Chapter 4.
1•20
20.6b . . . and lift the air filter
element out20.6a Rotate the cover
upwards . . .
20.5 Use a screwdriver to detach the air
cleaner cover clips20.4 Detach the duct from the air cleaner
housing19.3 Check and lubricate the throttle
linkage at the points shown (arrowed) -
fuel injection engine shown
Every 12 000 miles

Flushing
7Once the system is completely drained,
flush the radiator with fresh water from a
garden hose until the water runs clear at the
drain or bottom hose. If the radiator is
severely corroded, damaged or leaking, it
should be removed (see Chapter 3) and taken
to a radiator repair specialist.
8Flushing in this way will remove sediments
from the radiator, but will not remove rust and
scale from the engine and cooling tube
surfaces. These deposits can be removed by
using a chemical cleaner. Follow the
procedure outlined in the cleaner
manufacturer’s instructions. Remove the
cylinder block drain plug before flushing the
engine.
9On models so equipped, remove the
overflow hose from the coolant recovery
reservoir. Drain the reservoir and flush it with
clean water, then reconnect the hose.
Refilling
10Tighten the radiator drain plug, or
reconnect the radiator bottom hose. Refit and
tighten the cylinder block drain plug.
Four-cylinder engines
11Slowly add new coolant (a 40%/60%
mixture of antifreeze to water) to the radiator
until it is full. Add coolant to the reservoir up
to the lower mark.
12Leave the radiator cap off, and run the
engine in a well-ventilated area until the
thermostat opens (coolant will begin flowing
through the radiator, and the upper radiator
hose will become hot).
13Turn the engine off, and let it cool. Add
more coolant mixture to bring the coolant
level back up to the lip on the radiator filler
neck. On the M40 engine, unscrew the bleed
screw from the top of the radiator, and add
coolant until it comes out of the bleed screw
hole. Refit and tighten the bleed screw.
14Squeeze the upper radiator hose to expel
air, then add more coolant mixture if
necessary. Refit the radiator cap.
15Start the engine, allow it to reach normal
operating temperature, and check for leaks.
Six-cylinder engines
16Loosen the bleed screw in the thermostat
housing (see illustration)
17Fill the radiator with a 40%/60% solution
of antifreeze and water until it comes out of
the bleed screw opening. Tighten the bleed
screw.
18Refit the radiator cap, and run the engine
until the thermostat opens (the upper radiator
hose will become hot). Slowly loosen the
bleed screw until no bubbles emerge, then
tighten the screw.
19Repeat the procedure until the air is bled
from the system.
30 Fuel filter renewal
1
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. If you spill any
fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately
with soap and water. When you perform
any kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a fire
extinguisher on hand.
1On fuel injection engines, depressurise the
fuel system (see Chapter 4).
2The fuel filter is located in the engine
compartment on the bulkhead, or under the
vehicle adjacent to the fuel tank.
3Because on some models the filter is
located adjacent to the starter motor, fuel
could leak onto the electrical connections. For
safety reasons, therefore, disconnect the
battery negative cable before beginning work.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
4Place a pan or rags under the fuel filter to
catch any spilled fuel. If suitable hose clamps
are available, clamp the inlet and outlet hoses.
5 Detach the hoses and remove the bracket
screws/nuts, then remove the filter and where
applicable the bracket assembly (see
illustration).
6Detach the filter from the bracket.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
the arrow on the filter points in the direction of
fuel flow.
31 Manual transmission
lubricant change
1
1Tools necessary for this job include axle
stands to support the vehicle in a raised
position, an Allen key to remove the drain
plug, a drain pan, newspapers and clean rags.
The correct amount of the specified lubricant
should also be available (see “Lubricants and
fluids”at the start of this Chapter).
2The lubricant should be drained when it is
hot (ie immediately after the vehicle has been
driven); this will remove any contaminants
better than if the lubricant were cold. Because
1•25
30.5 To renew the fuel filter, disconnect
the hoses (A), then unscrew the nut (B) and
detach the filter from the bracket (fuel
injection type shown)29.16 The bleed screw (arrowed) is
located on the thermostat housing (six-
cylinder models)29.4 Radiator drain plug location
(arrowed) - not fitted to all models
31.5 Use an Allen key to remove the drain
plug (arrowed) from the bottom of the
transmission
1
Every 24 000 miles

1 General information
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-
vehicle engine repair procedures. All
information concerning engine removal and
refitting and engine block and cylinder head
overhaul can be found in Chapter 2B.
The following repair procedures are based
on the assumption that the engine is still fitted
in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed
from the vehicle and mounted on a stand,
many of the steps outlined in this Part of
Chapter 2 will not apply.
The Specifications included in this Part of
Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures
contained in this Part. Chapter 2B contains
the Specifications necessary for cylinder head
and engine block rebuilding.
The single overhead camshaft four- and
six-cylinder engines covered in this manual
are very similar in design. Where there are
differences, they will be pointed out.
The means by which the overhead
camshaft is driven varies according to engine
type; M10 and M30 engines use a timing
chain, while M20 and M40 engines have a
timing belt.
2 Repair operations possible
with the engine in the vehicle
Many major repair operations can be
accomplished without removing the engine
from the vehicle.
Clean the engine compartment and the
exterior of the engine with some type of
degreaser before any work is done. It will
make the job easier, and help keep dirt out of
the internal areas of the engine.
Depending on the components involved, it
may be helpful to remove the bonnet to
improve access to the engine as repairs are
performed (see Chapter 11 if necessary).
Cover the wings to prevent damage to the
paint. Special pads are available, but an old
bedspread or blanket will also work.
If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks
develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal
renewal, the repairs can generally be made
with the engine in the vehicle. The intake and
exhaust manifold gaskets, sump gasket,
crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket
are all accessible with the engine in place.
Exterior components, such as the intake
and exhaust manifolds, the sump, the oil
pump, the water pump, the starter motor, the
alternator, the distributor and the fuel system
components, can be removed for repair with
the engine in place.
The cylinder head can be removed without
removing the engine, so this procedure is
covered in this Part of Chapter 2. Camshaft,
rocker arm and valve component servicing ismost easily accomplished with the cylinder
head removed; these procedures are covered
in Part B of this Chapter. Note, however, that
the camshaft on the M40 engine may be
removed with the engine in the vehicle since it
is retained by bearing caps.
In extreme cases caused by a lack of
necessary equipment, repair or renewal of
piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and
big-end bearings is possible with the engine in
the vehicle. However, this practice is not
recommended, because of the cleaning and
preparation work that must be done to the
components involved.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for
No 1 piston- locating
2
Note 1:The following procedure is based on
the assumption that the distributor (if
applicable) is correctly fitted. If you are trying
to locate TDC to refit the distributor correctly,
piston position must be determined by feeling
for compression at the No 1 spark plug hole,
then aligning the ignition timing marks or
inserting the timing tool in the flywheel, as
applicable.
Note 2:The No 1 cylinder is the one closest to
the radiator.
1Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point
in the cylinder that each piston reaches as it
travels up and down when the crankshaft
turns. Each piston reaches TDC on the
compression stroke and again on the exhaust
stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston
position on the compression stroke.
2Positioning the piston at TDC is an essential
part of many procedures, such as timing belt
or chain removal and distributor removal.
3Before beginning this procedure, be sure to
place the transmission in Neutral, and apply
the handbrake or chock the rear wheels. Also,
disable the ignition system by detaching the
coil wire from the centre terminal of the
distributor cap, and earthing it on the engine
block with a jumper wire. Remove the spark
plugs (see Chapter 1).
4In order to bring any piston to TDC, the
crankshaft must be turned using one of the
methods outlined below. When looking at the
front of the engine, normal crankshaft rotation
is clockwise.
(a) The preferred method is to turn the
crankshaft with a socket and ratchet
attached to the bolt threaded into the
front of the crankshaft.
(b) A remote starter switch, which may save
some time, can also be used. Follow the
instructions included with the switch.
Once the piston is close to TDC, use a
socket and ratchet as described in the
previous paragraph.
(c) If an assistant is available to turn the
ignition switch to the Start position in
short bursts, you can get the piston close
to TDC without a remote starter switch.Make sure your assistant is out of the
vehicle, away from the ignition switch,
then use a socket and ratchet as
described in (a) to complete the
procedure.
5Note the position of the terminal for the
No 1 spark plug lead on the distributor cap. If
the terminal isn’t marked, follow the plug lead
from the No 1 cylinder spark plug to the cap
(No 1 cylinder is nearest the radiator).
6Use a felt-tip pen or chalk to make a mark
directly below the No 1 terminal on the
distributor body or timing cover.
7Detach the distributor cap, and set it aside
(see Chapter 1 if necessary).
8Turn the crankshaft (see paragraph 4
above) until the timing marks (located at the
front of the engine) are aligned (see
illustration). The M40 engine does not have
any timing marks at the front of the engine,
but instead has a timing hole in the flywheel
which must be aligned with a hole in the rear
flange of the cylinder block. On this engine,
turn the crankshaft until the distributor rotor is
approaching the No 1 TDC position, then
continue to turn the crankshaft until a suitable
close-fitting drill can be inserted through the
hole in the cylinder block and into the
flywheel.
9Look at the distributor rotor - it should be
pointing directly at the mark you made on the
distributor body or timing cover.
10If the rotor is 180 degrees out, the No 1
piston is at TDC on the exhaust stroke.
11To get the piston to TDC on the
compression stroke, turn the crankshaft one
complete turn (360°) clockwise. The rotor
should now be pointing at the mark on the
distributor or timing cover. When the rotor is
pointing at the No 1 spark plug lead terminal
in the distributor cap and the ignition timing
marks are aligned, the No 1 piston is at TDC
on the compression stroke. Note:If it’s
impossible to align the ignition timing marks
when the rotor is pointing at the mark, the
timing belt or chain may have jumped the
teeth on the sprockets, or may have been
fitted incorrectly.
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•3
3.8 Align the notch in the pulley with the
notch on the timing plate, then check to
see if the distributor rotor is pointing to the
No 1 cylinder (if not, the camshaft is 180
degrees out - the crankshaft will have to
be rotated 360 degrees)
2A

5On carburettor engines, remove the
complete air cleaner assembly (see Chap-
ter 4).
6Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
throttle body/intake manifold as applicable.
7Disconnect the throttle cable and, if
applicable, cruise control cable (see Chap-
ter 4).
8Remove the EGR valve and line where
applicable (see Chapter 6).
9At this stage on the M40 engine, the upper
part of the intake manifold should be removed
by unscrewing the bolts and nuts. Remove
the gaskets (see illustrations).
10On fuel injection engines, disconnect the
vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator,
and disconnect the electrical connectors from
the fuel injectors (see Chapter 4).
11Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail
or carburettor, as applicable (see Chapter 4).
12On the M40 engine, unbolt and remove
the support bracket from the bottom of the
intake manifold (see illustration).
13Disconnect all remaining hoses and wires
attached between the intake manifold/throttle
body assembly and the engine or chassis.
14Remove the bolts and/or nuts that attach
the manifold to the cylinder head (see
illustrations). Start at the ends and work
toward the middle, loosening each one a little
at a time until they can be removed by hand.
Support the manifold while removing the
fasteners so it doesn’t fall. Note: You can
remove the manifold without removing the
throttle body, injectors, vacuum/thermovalves, fuel pressure regulator or carburettor.
If you’re fitting a new manifold, transfer the
components (see Chapter 4) and lines to the
new manifold before it is fitted on the cylinder
head.
15Move the manifold up and down to break
the gasket seal, then lift it away from the head
and remove the gasket (see illustrations).
Refitting
16Remove the old gasket, then carefully
scrape all traces of sealant off the head and
the manifold mating surfaces. Be very careful
not to nick or scratch the delicate aluminium
mating surfaces. Gasket removal solvents are
available at motor factors, and may prove
helpful. Make sure the surfaces are perfectly
clean and free of dirt and oil.17Check the manifold for corrosion (at the
coolant passages), cracks, warping and other
damage. Cracks and warping normally show
up near the gasket surface, around the stud
holes. If defects are found, have the manifold
repaired (or renew it, as necessary).
18When refitting the manifold, always use a
new gasket. Where one side of the gasket has
a graphite surface, this must face the cylinder
head.
19Refit the nuts and bolts and tighten them
gradually, working from the centre out to the
ends, to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
20The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. On the M40 engine, renew the
gaskets between the upper and lower parts of
the manifold.
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•5
5.9c . . . and gaskets5.9b . . . and remove the upper part of the
intake manifold . . .5.9a On the M40 engine, remove the nuts
and special bolts . . .
5.15b Removing the lower intake manifold
gasket (M40 engine)5.15a Removing the lower intake manifold
(M40 engine)
5.14a Remove the intake manifold nuts
with a socket, ratchet and long extension
(M20 engine)5.12 Removing the support bracket from
the bottom of the intake manifold
(M40 engine)
5.14b Removing the lower intake manifold
nuts (M40 engine)
2A

6 Exhaust manifold-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: Make sure the engine is
completely cool before beginning
work on the exhaust system.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2On models where the air cleaner is on the
exhaust manifold side of the engine, remove
the air cleaner housing assembly and/or
airflow sensor to provide sufficient working
area (see Chapter 4, if necessary).
3Unplug the HT leads and set the spark plug
lead harness aside (see Chapter 1).
4Clearly label, then disconnect or remove, all
wires, hoses, fittings, etc. that are in the way.
Be sure to disconnect the oxygen sensor,
where fitted.
5Raise the vehicle, and support it securely
on axle stands. Working from under the
vehicle, separate the exhaust downpipe from
the manifold. Use penetrating oil on the
fasteners to ease removal (see illustrations).
6Remove the axle stands, and lower the
vehicle. Working from the ends of the
manifold toward the centre, loosen the
retaining nuts gradually until they can be
removed. Again, penetrating oil may prove
helpful.
7Pull the manifold off the head, then remove
the old gaskets (see illustrations). Note:Be
very careful not to damage the oxygen sensor,
where fitted.8Clean the gasket mating surfaces of the
head and manifold, and make sure the
threads on the exhaust manifold studs are in
good condition.
9Check for corrosion, warping, cracks, and
other damage. Repair or renew the manifold
as necessary.
10When refitting the manifold, use new
gaskets. Tighten the manifold-to-head
retaining nuts gradually, starting at the centre
and working out to the ends, to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Also
tighten the downpipe-to-manifold nuts.
11The remaining steps are simply a reversal
of the removal procedure.
7 Timing chain covers-
removal and refitting
5
Note 1:This procedure applies to M10 and
M30 engines.
Note 2:The upper timing chain cover can be
removed separately. If you need to remove
both the upper and lower covers, special tools
are required. Read paragraphs 8 and 9 before
beginning work.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code before
disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
2If you’re removing the lower timing chain
cover (the upper cover can be removed
separately), remove the cooling fan and fan
shroud, the radiator and the fan drivebelt
pulley (see Chapter 3).
3On the M10 engine only, remove the water
pump (see Chapter 3).
4On engines where the distributor cap is
mounted directly to the timing chain cover,
remove the cap, rotor and the black plastic
cover beneath the rotor (see Chapter 1).
5On the M30 engine fitted with the
L-Jetronic fuel system, remove the
distributor from the upper timing cover (see
Chapter 5).
6Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).
7If you’ll be removing the lower timing chain
cover on the M30 engine, remove the crankshaft
pulley from the vibration damper/hub. Hold the
pulley stationary with a socket on the centre
bolt, and remove the pulley bolts with another
socket (see illustration).
8If you’ll be removing the lower timing chain
2A•6 In-car engine repair procedures
6.7c Removing the exhaust manifold-to-
downpipe gasket (M40 engine)6.7b Removing the exhaust manifold
gasket (M40 engine)6.7a Removing the exhaust manifold
(M40 engine)
6.5b Exhaust manifold-to-downpipe flange
(M40 engine)6.5a Remove the exhaust manifold nuts
(arrowed) from the exhaust pipe (M20
engine) - soaking the nuts with penetrating
oil should make them easier to remove
Remove the windscreen
washer reservoir from the
right-hand side of the engine
compartment to give more
working room.

22Using a scraper, remove all traces of old
gasket material from the sealing surfaces of
the covers and engine block.
Caution: Be very careful not to
scratch or gouge the delicate
aluminium surfaces. Also, do not
damage the sump gasket, and
keep it clean. Gasket removal solvents are
available at motor factors, and may
prove helpful. After all gasket material has
been removed, the gasket surfaces
can be degreased by wiping them
with a rag dampened with a suitable
solvent.
23Support the cover on two blocks of wood,
and drive out the seals from behind with a
hammer and screwdriver. Be very careful not
to damage the seal bores in the process.
24Coat the outside diameters and lips of the
new seals with multi-purpose grease, and
drive the seals into the cover with a hammer
and a socket slightly smaller in diameter than
the outside diameter of the seal.
25Apply a film of RTV-type gasket sealant to
the surface of the sump gasket that mates
with the front cover. Apply extra beads of RTV
sealant to the edges where the gasket meets
the engine block. Note:If the sump gasket is
damaged, instead of fitting a whole new
gasket, you might try trimming the front
portion of the gasket off at the point where it
meets the engine block, then trim off the front
portion of a new sump gasket so it’s exactly
the same size. Cover the exposed inside area
of the sump with a rag, then clean all traces of
old gasket material off the area where the
gasket was removed. Attach the new gasket
piece to the sump with contact-cement-type
gasket adhesive, then apply RTV-type sealant
as described at the beginning of this
paragraph.
26Coat both sides of the new gasket with
RTV-type gasket sealant, then attach the front
cover to the front of the engine, carefully
working the seals over the crankshaft and
intermediate shaft. Refit the bolts and tighten
them evenly to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Work from bolt-to-
bolt in a criss-cross pattern, to be sure they’re
tightened evenly.Note 1:Tighten the front
cover-to-block bolts first, then tighten the
sump-to-cover bolts. Note 2:After applying
RTV-type sealant, reassembly must be
completed in about 10 minutes so the RTV
won’t prematurely harden.
27The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
Crankshaft front seal (M40 engines)
28Remove the timing belt and crankshaft
sprocket (see Section 10).
29Remove the Woodruff key from the
groove in the end of the crankshaft.
30Note the fitted position of the oil seal, then
prise it out from the front cover using a
screwdriver, but take care not to damage the
bore of the cover or the surface of thecrankshaft. If the seal is tight, drill two small
holes in the metal end of the seal, and use two
self-tapping screws to pull out the seal. Make
sure all remains of swarf are removed.
31Coat the outside diameter and lip of the
new seal with multi-purpose grease, then
drive it into the cover with a hammer and a
socket slightly smaller in diameter than the
outside diameter of the seal. Make sure the
seal enters squarely.
32The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Note that it is recommended that the
timing belt be renewed - see Section 10.
12 Cylinder head-
removal and refitting
5
Removal
1Relieve the fuel pressure on all fuel injection
engines (see Chapter 4).
2Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery. Where the battery is located in the
engine compartment, the battery may be
removed completely (see Chapter 5).
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
3Remove the air cleaner assembly (see
Chapter 4).
4Disconnect the wiring from the distributor
(mark all wiring for position first, if necessary),
and the HT lead from the coil (see Chapter 5).
5Disconnect the lead from the coolant
temperature sender unit (see Chapter 3).
6Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail or
carburettor as applicable (see Chapter 4).
7Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 3).
8Clearly label then disconnect all other
hoses from the throttle body, intake manifold,
carburettor and cylinder head, as applicable.
9Disconnect the throttle cable from the
throttle linkage or carburettor (see Chapter 4).
10Disconnect the exhaust manifold from the
cylinder head (see Section 6). Depending on
the engine type, It may not be necessary to
disconnect the manifold from the exhaust
pipe; however, on right-hand-drive models,
the steering column intermediate shaft may
not allow the manifold to clear the studs on
the cylinder head.
11Remove or disconnect any remaining
hoses or lines from the intake manifold,
including the ignition advance vacuum line(s),
and the coolant and heater hoses.
12On early carburettor models, disconnect
the wiring from the alternator and starter
motor.13Remove the intake manifold (see Sec-
tion 5). Do not dismantle or remove any fuel
injection system components unless it is
absolutely necessary.
14Remove the fan drivebelt and fan (see
Chapter 3).
15Remove the valve cover and gasket (see
Section 4). Remove the semi-circular rubber
seal from the front of the cylinder head, where
this is not incorporated in the valve cover
gasket.
16Set No 1 piston at Top Dead Centre on
the compression stroke (see Section 3).
17Remove the timing chain or belt (see
Section 8 or 10). Note:If you want to save
time by not removing and refitting the timing
belt or chain and re-timing the engine, you can
unfasten the camshaft sprocket and suspend
it out of the way - with the belt or chain still
attached - by a piece of rope. Be sure the
rope keeps firm tension on the belt or chain,
so it won’t become disengaged from any of
the sprockets.
18Loosen the cylinder head bolts a quarter-
turn at a time each, in the reverse of the
tightening sequence shown (see illustrations
12.30a, 12.30b, 12.30c or 12.30d). Do
notdismantle or remove the rocker arm
assembly at this time on M10, M20 and M30
engines.
19Remove the cylinder head by lifting it
straight up and off the engine block. Do not
prise between the cylinder head and the
engine block, as damage to the gasket sealing
surfaces may result. Instead, use a blunt bar
positioned in an intake port to gently prise the
head loose.
20Remove any remaining external
components from the head to allow for
thorough cleaning and inspection. See
Chapter 2B for cylinder head servicing
procedures. On the M40 engine, remove the
rubber O-ring from the groove in the top of the
oil pump/front end cover housing.
Refitting
21The mating surfaces of the cylinder head
and block must be perfectly clean when the
head is refitted.
22Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces
of carbon and old gasket material, then clean
the mating surfaces with a suitable solvent. If
there’s oil on the mating surfaces when the
head is refitted, the gasket may not seal
correctly, and leaks could develop. When
working on the block, stuff the cylinders with
clean rags to keep out debris. Use a vacuum
cleaner to remove material that falls into the
cylinders.
23Check the block and head mating
surfaces for nicks, deep scratches and other
damage. If the damage is slight, it can be
removed with a file; if it’s excessive,
machining may be the only alternative.
24Use a tap of the correct size to chase the
threads in the head bolt holes, then clean the
holes with compressed air - make sure that
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•13
2A

13 Sump- removal and refitting
1
1Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).
2Raise the front of the vehicle and place it
securely on axle stands.
3Remove the splash shields from under the
engine.
4Where applicable, disconnect the hoses
attached to the sump, and move them to one
side (see illustration).
5Where applicable, disconnect the oil level
sensor electrical connector (see illustration).
6Where applicable, remove the cast-
aluminium inspection cover that covers the
rear of the sump (see illustrations).
7On models with the M40 engine, unbolt and
remove the lower sump section and remove
the gasket (this is necessary for access to the
front mounting bolts). Unscrew the mounting
bolt, and pull the oil dipstick tube from the
sump (see illustrations). Check the condition
of the O-ring, and renew it if necessary.
8On models with the M40 engine, unscrew
the engine mounting nuts on both sides, then
attach a suitable hoist and lift the engine
sufficiently to allow the sump to be removed.
As a safety precaution, position axle stands or
blocks of wood beneath the engine.
9Remove the bolts securing the sump to theengine block and front/rear covers (see
illustration).
10Tap on the sump with a soft-faced
hammer to break the gasket seal, and lower
the sump from the engine.
11Using a gasket scraper, scrape off all
traces of the old gasket from the engine
block, the timing chain cover, the rear main oil
seal housing, and the sump. Be especially
careful not to nick or gouge the gasket sealing
surfaces of the timing chain cover and the oil
seal housing (they are made of aluminium,
and are quite soft).
12Clean the sump with solvent, and dry it
thoroughly. Check the gasket sealing surfaces
for distortion. Clean any residue from thegasket sealing surfaces on the sump and
engine with a rag dampened with a suitable
solvent.
13Before refitting the sump, apply a little
RTV-type gasket sealant to the area where the
front and rear covers join the cylinder block..
Lay a new sump gasket in place on the block.
If necessary, apply more sealant to hold the
gasket in place.
14Carefully position the sump in place (do
not disturb the gasket) and refit the bolts.
Start with the bolts closest to the centre of the
sump, and tighten them to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications, using a criss-
cross pattern. Do not overtighten them, or
leakage may occur.
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•15
13.5 If applicable, disconnect the oil level
sensor connector at the left side of the
engine, down near the power steering
pump mounting bracket13.4 If applicable, remove the nut securing
the power steering lines to the sump, and
move the lines to one side to allow you to
get at the sump bolts12.30e Angle-tightening the cylinder head
bolts (M40 engine)
13.9 Remove the bolts holding the sump
to the engine block and front cover, as
shown here on a six-cylinder engine13.7b Removing the oil dipstick tube
bracket mounting bolt
13.6b . . . remove the cover to get to all
the sump bolts13.6a Remove the four inspection cover
bolts (arrowed) and . . .
13.7a Main sump retaining bolts accessed
after removal of the lower sump section on
the M40 engine (engine on bench for clarity)
2A

15The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Fit a new gasket to the lower sump
section on models with the M40 engine.
16On completion refill the engine with oil
(Chapter 1). Run the engine and check that
there are no oil leaks from the sump gasket or
other disturbed components.
14 Oil pump- removal,
inspection and refitting
5
Removal
1Remove the sump (see Section 13).
M10, M20 and M30 engines
2On M10 and M30 engines, remove the
three bolts that attach the gear to the front of
the pump (see illustration). Note: Some
models have a single centre nut attaching the
gear to the oil pump.
3Unbolt the oil pump from the engine block
(see illustrations)and remove it.
4On the M20 engine, the intermediate shaft
drives the oil pump driveshaft, which drives
the oil pump. To remove the driveshaft,
remove the hold-down plate from the block,
and lift out the plug. Check the condition of
the O-ring, and renew it if necessary. Lift the
driveshaft out and check both gears for wear,
renewing them if worn or damaged (see
illustration).
5If the gear on the intermediate shaft is worn,
or the intermediate shaft bearing is worn or
damaged, the intermediate shaft must be
removed. Remove the engine (see Chap-
ter 2B), then remove the timing belt,
crankshaft and intermediate shaft sprockets
(see Section 10) and the engine front cover
(see Section 11). The intermediate shaft can
be slid out the front of the engine.
M40 engines
6Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 10.
7Remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 12.
8Unscrew the nut and remove the timing belt
tensioner from the front end cover (see
illustration). If necessary, unscrew the stud
from the cylinder block.9Unscrew and remove the crankshaft hub
bolt while holding the crankshaft stationary.
The bolt is tightened to a very high torque,
and it will be necessary to prevent the
crankshaft turning. Ideally, a metal bar should
be bolted to the sprocket, or the starter motor
may be removed and the flywheel held using a
wide-bladed screwdriver. Beware of possible
damage to surrounding components if it is
necessary to improvise some method of
immobilising the crankshaft.
10Remove the sprocket and spacer, noting
that the shoulder on the spacer faces inwards.
11Unscrew the bolts and remove the
stabilising and guide rollers from the front end
cover (see illustrations).12Using a small screwdriver or similar
instrument, remove the key from the groove in
the nose of the crankshaft (see illustration).
13Pull the spacer ring off the crankshaft (see
illustration).
14Unscrew the remaining bolts, and remove
the front end cover and oil pump from the
cylinder block. Note the locations of the front
cover bolts, as they are of different sizes. With
the cover removed, extract the rubber O-ring
from the groove in the nose of the crankshaft
(see illustrations).
15Note the fitted location of the oil seal, then
prise it out of the housing.
2A•16 In-car engine repair procedures
14.11b Removing the guide roller from the
front end cover (M40 engine)14.11a Removing the stabilising roller
from the front end cover (M40 engine)14.8 Removing the timing belt tensioner
(M40 engine)
14.3b On M10 and M30 engines, the oil
pump is bolted to the front and centre of
the engine block14.4 If necessary on the M20 engine,
remove the plug and oil pump driveshaft
from the engine. Inspect the driveshaft
gear, as well as this intermediate shaft
gear in the engine block (arrowed)
14.3a On M20 engines, the oil pump is
bolted across the engine block from side
to side, towards the front of the engine14.2 On M10 and M30 engines, remove the
three bolts that hold the driven gear to the
oil pump, and remove the gear

2B
General
Cylinder compression pressure (all engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 11 bars
Oil pressure (all engines)
At idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 2.0 bars
Running (for example, at 4000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 bars or above (typically)
Cylinder head warpage limit
Except M40 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm
M40 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 mm
Minimum cylinder head thickness (do not resurface the head to a thickness less than listed)
M10 and M30 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128.6 mm
M20 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124.7 mm
M40 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140.55 mm
Valves
Valve stem diameter (standard)
M10 and M30 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm
M20 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 mm
M40 engine
Intake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.975 mm
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.960 mm
Minimum valve margin width
Intake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.191 mm
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.98 mm
Valve stem maximum lateral movement (see text) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.787 mm
Valve face angle
Intake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°
Chapter 2 Part B:
General engine overhaul procedures
Compression check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Crankshaft - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing oil clearance check . . . . . . . 24
Crankshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Crankshaft rear oil seal - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Cylinder head and components - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . 9
Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Cylinder honing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Engine - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Engine block - cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Engine block - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Engine overhaul - alternatives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Engine removal - methods and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Initial start-up and break-in after overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Intermediate shaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Intermediate shaft - removal and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Main and connecting big-end bearings - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Piston rings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Pistons/connecting rods - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Pistons/connecting rods - refitting and big-end bearing oil
clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Pistons/connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Valves - servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
2B•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents