check oil BMW 3 SERIES 1987 E30 Owner's Guide

rocker shafts with a threaded front hole,
screw in a slide hammer to pull the shaft from
the head.
14As each rocker arm shaft is slid out of the
cylinder head, the rocker arms will be
released, one by one.
15Drop each rocker arm into a labelled bag,
so they can be returned to their original
locations on reassembly. While you’re
removing the rocker arm shafts, note their
orientation. The guide plate notches and the
small oil holes face in; the large oil holes face
down, toward the valve guides. Also, label the
rocker shafts so they can be returned to their
original locations in the cylinder head.
M40 engines
Caution: Keep the cylinder head
upright until all of the hydraulic
tappets have been removed. If
this precaution is not taken, the
oil may drain out of the tappets and render
them unserviceable.
16Check that the camshaft bearing caps are
numbered or identified for location.
17Progressively unscrew and remove the
camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts, then
remove the caps (see illustrations).
18Lift the camshaft from the top of the
cylinder head, and remove the oil seal from
the timing end.
19Have ready a compartmentalised box
filled with engine oil to receive the hydraulic
tappets so that they are kept identified for
their correct location (see illustration). Also
have a further box ready to receive the cam
followers.20Remove the cam followers and thrust
discs, then lift out the hydraulic tappets from
their bores in the cylinder head (see
illustrations).
All engines
21Before the valves are removed, arrange to
label and store them, along with their related
components, so they can be kept separate
and reinstalled in the same valve guides from
which they’re removed (see illustration).
22Compress the springs on the first valve
with a spring compressor, and remove the
collets (see illustration). Carefully release the
valve spring compressor, and remove the
retainer, the spring and the spring seat (if
used).
23Pull the valve out of the head, then
remove the oil seal from the guide.
General engine overhaul procedures 2B•9
8.19 Compartmentalised box to hold the
hydraulic tappets (M40 engine)8.17b . . . and camshaft - M40 engine8.17a Removing the camshaft bearing
caps . . .
8.22 Using a valve spring compressor to
compress a valve spring
8.21 A small plastic bag, with an
appropriate label, can be used to store the
valve components so they can be kept
together and refitted in the original position
8.20b . . . and thrust discs . . .8.20a Remove the cam followers . . .
8.20c . . . then lift out the hydraulic tappets
2B
If the valve binds in the guide (won’t
pull through), push it back into the
head, and deburr the area around the
collet groove with a fine file or
whetstone.

24Repeat the procedure for the remaining
valves. Remember to keep all the parts for
each valve together, so they can be refitted in
the same locations.
25Once the valves and related components
have been removed and stored in an
organised manner, the head should be
thoroughly cleaned and inspected. If a
complete engine overhaul is being done,
finish the engine dismantling procedures
before beginning the cylinder head cleaning
and inspection process.
9 Cylinder head and
components-
cleaning and inspection
4
1Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head(s)
and related valve train components, followed
by a detailed inspection, will enable you to
decide how much valve service work must be
done during the engine overhaul. Note: If the
engine was severely overheated, the cylinder
head is probably warped (see paragraph 10).
Cleaning
2Scrape all traces of old gasket material and
sealing compound off the cylinder head,
intake manifold and exhaust manifold sealing
surfaces. Be very careful not to gouge the
cylinder head. Special gasket removal
solvents are available at motor factors.
3Remove all built-up scale from the coolant
passages.
4Run a stiff brush through the various holes
to remove deposits that may have formed in
them.
5Run an appropriate-size tap into each of the
threaded holes, to remove corrosion and
thread sealant that may be present. If
compressed air is available, use it to clear the
holes of debris produced by this operation.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
6Clean the cylinder head with solvent, and
dry it thoroughly. Compressed air will speed
the drying process, and ensure that all holesand recessed areas are clean. Note:
Decarbonising chemicals are available, and
may prove very useful when cleaning cylinder
heads and valve train components. They are
very caustic, however, and should be used
with caution. Be sure to follow the instructions
on the container.
7Clean all the rocker shafts/arms/followers,
springs, valve springs, spring seats, keepers
and retainers with solvent, and dry them
thoroughly. Clean the components from one
valve at a time, to avoid mixing up the parts.
Caution: DO NOT clean the
hydraulic tappets of the M40
engine; leave them completely
immersed in oil.
8Scrape off any heavy deposits that may
have formed on the valves, then use a
motorised wire brush to remove deposits from
the valve heads and stems. Again, make sure
the valves don’t get mixed up.
Inspection
Note: Be sure to perform all of the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
machine shop work is required. Make a list of
the items that need attention.
Cylinder head
9Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage, and other
damage. If cracks are found, check with an
machine shop concerning repair. If repair isn’t
possible, a new cylinder head should be
obtained.
10Using a straightedge and feeler gauge,
check the head gasket mating surface for
warpage (see illustration). If the warpage
exceeds the limit listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications, it may be possible to have it
resurfaced at a machine shop, providing the
head is not reduced to less than the specified
minimum thickness.
11Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they’re badly pitted,
cracked or burned, the head will require
servicing that’s beyond the scope of the home
mechanic.12Check the valve stem-to-guide clearance
by measuring the lateral movement of the
valve stem with a dial indicator (see
illustration). The valve must be in the guide
and approximately 2.0 mm off the seat. The
total valve stem movement indicated by the
gauge needle must be divided by two, to
obtain the actual clearance. After this is done,
if there’s still some doubt regarding the
condition of the valve guides, they should be
checked by a machine shop (the cost should
be minimal).
Valves
13Carefully inspect each valve face for
uneven wear, deformation, cracks, pits and
burned areas (see illustration). Check the
valve stem for scuffing and the neck for
cracks. Rotate the valve, and check for any
obvious indication that it’s bent. Look for pits
and excessive wear on the end of the stem.
The presence of any of these conditions
indicates the need for valve service as
described in the next Section.
14Measure the margin width on each valve
(see illustration). Any valve with a margin
narrower than specified will have to be
replaced with a new one.
Valve components
15Check each valve spring for wear on the
ends. The tension of all springs should be
checked with a special fixture before deciding
2B•10 General engine overhaul procedures
9.14 The margin width on each valve must
be as specified (if no margin exists, the
valve cannot be reused)
9.13 Check for valve wear at the points
shown here
9.12 A dial indicator can be used to
determine the valve stem-to-guide
clearance (move the valve as indicated by
the arrows)
9.10 Check the cylinder head gasket
surface for warpage by trying to slip a
feeler gauge under the straightedge (see
this Chapter’s Specifications for the
maximum warpage allowed, and use a
feeler gauge of that thickness)
1 Valve tip
2 Collet groove
3 Stem (least-worn
area)4 Stem (most-worn
area)
5 Valve face
6 Margin

that they’re suitable for use in a rebuilt engine
(take the springs to a machine shop for this
check).
16Stand each spring on a flat surface, and
check it for squareness (see illustration). If
any of the springs are distorted or sagged, or
possibly have a broken coil, fit new parts.
17Check the spring retainers and keepers
for obvious wear and cracks. Any
questionable parts should be renewed, as
extensive damage will occur if they fail during
engine operation.
Rocker arms (M10, M20 and
M30 engines)
Note:The rocker arms for the exhaust valves
are the most subject to wear, and should be
checked with particular care.
18Inspect all the rocker arms for excessive
wear on the tips that contact the valve stem
and camshaft (see illustration).
19Check the rocker arm radial clearance
(see Section 8). If it’s excessive, either the
rocker arm bush or the shaft (or both) is
excessively worn. To determine which is more
worn, slide the rocker arm onto an unworn
portion of the rocker arm shaft, and check the
radial clearance again. If it’s now within speci-
fications, the shaft is probably the most-worn
component. If it’s not within specifications,
the rocker arm bushes should be renewed.
Rocker arm shafts (M10, M20 and
M30 engines)
20Check the shafts for scoring, excessive
wear and other damage. The areas where therocker arms contact the shafts should be
smooth. If there is a visible ridge at the edge
of where the rocker arm rides, the shaft is
probably worn excessively.
Cam followers and hydraulic tappets
(M40 engines)
21Check the cam followers where they
contact the valve stems and pivot posts for
wear, scoring and pitting. If there is excessive
wear on both the followers and camshaft,
then a new camshaft, complete with cam
followers, must be obtained.
22Similarly check the hydraulic tappets where
they contact the bores in the cylinder head for
wear, scoring and pitting. Occasionally, a
hydraulic tappet may be noisy and require
renewal, and this will have been noticed when
the engine was running. It is not easy to check a
tappet for internal damage or wear once it has
been removed; if there is any doubt, a complete
set of new tappets should be fitted.
Camshaft
23Inspect the camshaft journals (the round
bearing areas) and lobes for scoring, pitting,
flaking and excessive wear. Using a
micrometer, measure the height of each
exhaust and intake lobe. Compare the heights
of all the exhaust lobes and intake lobes. If the
readings among the exhaust valve lobes or
intake valve lobes vary more than about
0.08 mm, or if the camshaft is exhibiting any
signs of wear, renew the camshaft.
24Inspect the camshaft bearing surfaces in
the cylinder head for scoring and other
damage. If the bearing surfaces are scored or
damaged, you’ll normally have to renew the
cylinder head, since the bearings are simply a
machined surface in the cylinder head. Note:
A machine shop (particularly one that
specialises in BMWs) or dealer service
department may be able to provide an
alternative to fitting a new cylinder head, if the
only problem with the head is mildly-scored
camshaft bearing surfaces.
25Using a micrometer, measure the journals
on the camshaft, and record the
measurements (see illustration). Using a
telescoping gauge or inside micrometer,measure the camshaft bearing diameters in the
cylinder head (on the M40 engine, refit the
bearing caps first). Subtract the camshaft
journal measurement from its corresponding
bearing inside diameter to obtain the oil
clearance. Compare the oil clearance to what’s
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If it’s not
within tolerance, a new camshaft and/or
cylinder head will be required. Note:Before
fitting a new cylinder head, check with a
machine shop (particularly one that specialises
in BMWs). They may be able to repair the head.
10 Valves- servicing
4
1Examine the valves as described in Sec-
tion 9, paragraphs 13 and 14. Renew any
valve that shows signs of wear or damage.
2If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter at
several points using a micrometer (see
illustration 9.13). Any significant difference in
the readings obtained indicates wear of the
valve stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
3If the valves are in satisfactory condition they
should be ground (lapped) into their respective
seats to ensure a gas-tight seal. If the seat is
only lightly pitted, or if it has been re-cut, fine
grinding compound should be used to produce
the required finish. Coarse valve-grinding
compound should not normally be used,
unless a seat is badly burned or deeply pitted.
If this is the case, the cylinder head and valves
should be inspected by an expert, to decide
whether seat re-cutting or even the renewal of
the valve or seat insert is required.
4Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside-down on a
bench, with a block of wood at each end to
give clearance for the valve stems.
5Smear a trace of the appropriate grade of
valve-grinding compound on the seat face,
and press a suction grinding tool onto the
valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve
occasionally to redistribute the grinding
compound (see illustration).
General engine overhaul procedures 2B•11
9.25 Measure each camshaft bearing
journal and its corresponding bearing
diameter in the cylinder head, then subtract
the journal diameter from the bearing
inside diameter to obtain the oil clearance9.18 Look for signs of pitting, discoloration
or excessive wear on the ends of the
rocker arms where they contact the
camshaft and the valve stem tip10.5 Grinding-in a valve - do not grind-in
the valves any more than absolutely
necessary, or their seats will be
prematurely sunk into the cylinder head
2B
9.16 Check each valve spring for
squareness

carbon deposits or cylinder wear have
produced ridges, they must be completely
removed with a special tool called a ridge
reamer (see illustration). Follow the
manufacturer’s instructions provided with the
tool. Failure to remove the ridges before
attempting to remove the piston/connecting
rod assemblies may result in piston ring
breakage.
2After the cylinder ridges have been
removed, turn the engine upside-down so the
crankshaft is facing up.
3Before the connecting rods are removed,
check the side play with feeler gauges. Slide
them between the first connecting rod and
crankshaft web until no play is apparent (see
illustration). The side play is equal to the
thickness of the feeler gauge(s). If the side
play exceeds the service limit, new
connecting rods will be required. If new rods
(or a new crankshaft) are fitted, ensure that
some side play is retained (if not, the rods will
have to be machined to restore it - consult a
machine shop for advice if necessary). Repeat
the procedure for the remaining connecting
rods.
4Check the connecting rods and caps for
identification marks. If they aren’t plainly
marked, use a small centre-punch to make
the appropriate number of indentations (see
illustration)on each rod and cap (1, 2, 3, etc.,
depending on the cylinder they’re associated
with).
5Loosen each of the connecting rod cap
nuts/bolts a half-turn at a time until they can
be removed by hand. Remove the No 1
connecting rod cap and bearing shell. Don’t
drop the bearing shell out of the cap.
6Where applicable, slip a short length of
plastic or rubber hose over each connecting
rod cap stud to protect the crankshaft journal
and cylinder wall as the piston is removed
(see illustration).
7Remove the bearing shell, and push the
connecting rod/piston assembly out through
the top of the engine. Use a wooden hammer
handle to push on the upper bearing surface
in the connecting rod. If resistance is felt,
double-check to make sure that all of the
ridge was removed from the cylinder.8Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders.
9After removal, reassemble the connecting
rod caps and bearing shells in their respective
connecting rods, and refit the cap nuts/bolts
finger-tight. Leaving the old bearing shells in
place until reassembly will help prevent the
connecting big-end bearing surfaces from
being accidentally nicked or gouged.
10Don’t separate the pistons from the
connecting rods (see Section 18).
13 Crankshaft- removal
5
Note: The crankshaft can be removed only
after the engine has been removed from the
vehicle. It’s assumed that the flywheel or
driveplate, vibration damper, timing chain or
belt, sump, oil pump and piston/connecting
rod assemblies have already been removed.
The rear main oil seal housing must be
unbolted and separated from the block before
proceeding with crankshaft removal.
1Before the crankshaft is removed, check
the endfloat. Mount a dial indicator with the
stem in line with the crankshaft and touching
the nose of the crankshaft, or one of its webs
(see illustration).
2Push the crankshaft all the way to the rear,and zero the dial indicator. Next, prise the
crankshaft to the front as far as possible, and
check the reading on the dial indicator. The
distance that it moves is the endfloat. If it’s
greater than the maximum endfloat listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications, check the
crankshaft thrust surfaces for wear. If no wear
is evident, new main bearings should correct
the endfloat.
3If a dial indicator isn’t available, feeler
gauges can be used. Identify the main bearing
with the thrust flanges either side of it - this is
referred to as the “thrust” main bearing (see
Section 24, paragraph 6). Gently prise or push
the crankshaft all the way to the front of the
engine. Slip feeler gauges between the
crankshaft and the front face of the thrust
main bearing to determine the clearance.
4Check the main bearing caps to see if
they’re marked to indicate their locations.
They should be numbered consecutively from
the front of the engine to the rear. If they
aren’t, mark them with number-stamping dies
or a centre-punch (see illustration). Main
bearing caps generally have a cast-in arrow,
which points to the front of the engine.
Loosen the main bearing cap bolts a quarter-
turn at a time each, working from the outer
ends towards the centre, until they can be
removed by hand. Note if any stud bolts are
used, and make sure they’re returned to their
original locations when the crankshaft is
refitted.
General engine overhaul procedures 2B•13
12.4 Mark the big-end bearing caps in
order from the front of the engine to the
rear (one mark for the front cap, two for
the second one and so on)12.3 Check the connecting rod side play
with a feeler gauge as shown12.1 A ridge reamer is required to remove
the ridge from the top of each cylinder - do
this before removing the pistons!
13.1 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a
dial indicator
12.6 To prevent damage to the crankshaft
journals and cylinder walls, slip sections of
rubber or plastic hose over the rod bolts
before removing the pistons
2B

16 Engine block- inspection
3
1Before the block is inspected, it should be
cleaned (see Section 15).
2Visually check the block for cracks, rust
and corrosion. Look for stripped threads in
the threaded holes. It’s also a good idea to
have the block checked for hidden cracks by
a machine shop that has the special
equipment to do this type of work. If defects
are found, have the block repaired, if possible;
otherwise, a new block will be required.
3Check the cylinder bores for scuffing and
scoring.
4Measure the diameter of each cylinder at
the top (just under the wear ridge area), centre
and bottom of the cylinder bore, parallel to the
crankshaft axis (see illustrations).
5Next, measure each cylinder’s diameter at
the same three locations across the
crankshaft axis. Compare the results to this
Chapter’s Specifications.
6If the required precision measuring tools
aren’t available, the piston-to-cylinder
clearances can be obtained, though not quite
as accurately, using feeler gauges.
7To check the clearance, select a feeler
gauge, and slip it into the cylinder along with
the matching piston. The piston must be
positioned exactly as it normally would be.
The feeler gauge must be between the piston
and cylinder on one of the thrust faces (90° to
the gudgeon pin bore).
8The piston should slip through the cylinder
(with the feeler gauge in place) with moderate
pressure.
9If it falls through or slides through easily, the
clearance is excessive, and a new piston will
be required. If the piston binds at the lower
end of the cylinder and is loose toward the
top, the cylinder is tapered. If tight spots are
encountered as the piston/feeler gauge is
rotated in the cylinder, the cylinder is out-of-
round.
10Repeat the procedure for the remaining
pistons and cylinders.
11If the cylinder walls are badly scuffed orscored, or if they’re out-of-round or tapered
beyond the limits given in this Chapter’s
Specifications, have the engine block rebored
and honed at a machine shop. If a rebore is
done, oversize pistons and rings will be
required.
12If the cylinders are in reasonably good
condition and not worn to the outside of the
limits, and if the piston-to-cylinder clearances
can be maintained properly, then they don’t
have to be rebored. Honing (see Section 17)
and a new set of piston rings is all that’s
necessary.
17 Cylinder honing
3
1Prior to engine reassembly, the cylinder
bores must be honed so the new piston rings
will seat correctly and provide the best
possible combustion chamber seal. Note:If
you don’t have the tools, or don’t want to
tackle the honing operation, most machine
shops will do it for a reasonable fee.
2Before honing the cylinders, refit the main
bearing caps, and tighten the bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
3Two types of cylinder hones are commonly
available - the flex hone or “bottle brush”type, and the more traditional surfacing hone
with spring-loaded stones. Both will do the
job, but for the less-experienced mechanic,
the “bottle brush” hone will probably be easier
to use. You’ll also need some paraffin or
honing oil, rags and an electric drill. Proceed
as follows.
4Mount the hone in the drill, compress the
stones, and slip it into the first cylinder (see
illustration). Be sure to wear safety goggles
or a face shield!
5Lubricate the cylinder with plenty of honing
oil, turn on the drill, and move the hone up and
down in the cylinder at a pace that will
produce a fine crosshatch pattern on the
cylinder walls. Ideally, the crosshatch lines
should intersect at approximately a 60° angle
(see illustration). Be sure to use plenty of
lubricant, and don’t take off any more material
than is absolutely necessary to produce the
desired finish. Note:Piston ring manufacturers
may specify a smaller crosshatch angle than
the traditional 60°- read and follow any
instructions included with the new rings.
6Don’t withdraw the hone from the cylinder
while it’s running. Instead, shut off the drill
and continue moving the hone up and down in
the cylinder until it comes to a complete stop,
then compress the stones and withdraw the
hone. If you’re using a “bottle brush” type
hone, stop the drill, then turn the chuck in the
normal direction of rotation while withdrawing
the hone from the cylinder.
General engine overhaul procedures 2B•15
16.4c The gauge is then measured with a
micrometer to determine the bore size16.4b The ability to “feel” when the
telescoping gauge is at the correct point
will be developed over time, so work
slowly, and repeat the check until you’re
satisfied the bore measurement is accurate16.4a Measure the diameter of each
cylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at
the centre (B) and at the bottom (C)
17.5 The cylinder hone should leave a
smooth, crosshatch pattern, with the lines
intersecting at approximately a 60° angle17.4 A “bottle brush” hone will produce
better results if you’ve never honed
cylinders before
2B

7Wipe the oil out of the cylinder, and repeat
the procedure for the remaining cylinders.
8After the honing job is complete, chamfer
the top edges of the cylinder bores with a
small file, so the rings won’t catch when the
pistons are refitted. Be very careful not to nick
the cylinder walls with the end of the file.
9The entire engine block must be washed
again very thoroughly with warm, soapy
water, to remove all traces of the abrasive grit
produced during the honing operation. Note:
The bores can be considered clean when a
lint-free white cloth - dampened with clean
engine oil - used to wipe them out doesn’t
pick up any more honing residue, which will
show up as grey areas on the cloth.Be sure to
run a brush through all oil holes and galleries,
and flush them with running water.
10After rinsing, dry the block, and apply a
coat of light rust-preventive oil to all machined
surfaces. Wrap the block in a plastic bag to
keep it clean, and set it aside until
reassembly.
18 Pistons/connecting rods-
inspection
3
1Before the inspection process can be
carried out, the piston/connecting rod
assemblies must be cleaned and the original
piston rings removed from the pistons.Note:
Always use new piston rings when the engine
is reassembled.
2Using a piston ring refitting tool, carefully
remove the rings from the pistons. Be careful
not to nick or gouge the pistons in the
process (see illustration).
3Scrape all traces of carbon from the top of
the piston. A hand-held wire brush or a piece
of fine emery cloth can be used once the
majority of the deposits have been scraped
away. Do not, under any circumstances, use a
wire brush mounted in a drill motor to remove
deposits from the pistons. The piston material
is soft, and may be damaged by the wire
brush.
4Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to
remove carbon deposits from the ring
grooves. Be very careful to remove only thecarbon deposits - don’t remove any metal,
and do not nick or scratch the sides of the
ring grooves (see illustration).
5Once the deposits have been removed,
clean the piston/rod assemblies with solvent,
and dry them with compressed air (if
available). Make sure the oil return holes in the
back sides of the ring grooves are clear.
6If the pistons and cylinder walls aren’t
damaged or worn excessively, and if the
engine block is not rebored, new pistons
won’t be necessary. Normal piston wear
appears as even vertical wear on the piston
thrust surfaces (90° to the gudgeon pin bore),
and slight looseness of the top ring in its
groove. New piston rings, however, should
always be used when an engine is rebuilt.
7Carefully inspect each piston for cracks
around the skirt, at the pin bosses, and at the
ring lands.
8Look for scoring and scuffing on the thrust
faces of the skirt, holes in the piston crown,
and burned areas at the edge of the crown. If
the skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may
have been suffering from overheating and/or
abnormal combustion, which caused
excessively high operating temperatures. The
cooling and lubrication systems should be
checked thoroughly. A hole in the piston crown
is an indication that abnormal combustion (pre-
ignition) was occurring. Burned areas at the
edge of the piston crown are usually evidence
of spark knock (detonation). If any of the aboveproblems exist, the causes must be corrected,
or the damage will occur again. The causes
may include intake air leaks, incorrect fuel/air
mixture, or incorrect ignition timing. On later
vehicles with high levels of exhaust emission
control, including catalytic converters, the
problem may be with the EGR (exhaust gas
recirculation) system, where applicable.
9Corrosion of the piston, in the form of small
pits, indicates that coolant is leaking into the
combustion chamber and/or the crankcase.
Again, the cause must be corrected or the
problem may persist in the rebuilt engine.
10Measure the piston ring side clearance by
laying a new piston ring in each ring groove
and slipping a feeler gauge in beside it(see
illustration). Check the clearance at three or
four locations around each groove. Be sure to
use the correct ring for each groove - they are
different. If the side clearance is greater than
the figure listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations, new pistons will have to be used.
11Check the piston-to-bore clearance by
measuring the bore (see Section 16) and the
piston diameter. Make sure the pistons and
bores are correctly matched. Measure the
piston across the skirt, at 90° to, and in line
with, the gudgeon pin (see illustration). (Any
difference between these two measurements
indicates that the piston is no longer perfectly
round.) Subtract the piston diameter from the
bore diameter to obtain the clearance. If it’s
greater than specified, the block will have to
be rebored, and new pistons and rings fitted.
2B•16 General engine overhaul procedures
18.11 Measure the piston diameter at a
90-degree angle to the gudgeon pin, at the
same height as the gudgeon pin
18.10 Check the ring side clearance with a
feeler gauge at several points around the
groove18.4 The piston ring grooves can be
cleaned with a special tool, as shown
here18.2 Removing the compression rings with
a ring expander - note the mark (arrowed)
facing up
If a groove cleaning tool isn’t available,
a piece broken off the old ring will do
the job, but protect your hands - piston
rings can be sharp

12Check the piston-to-rod clearance by
twisting the piston and rod in opposite
directions. Any noticeable play indicates
excessive wear, which must be corrected. The
piston/connecting rod assemblies should be
taken to a machine shop for attention.
13If the pistons must be removed from the
connecting rods for any reason, they should
be taken to a machine shop. When this is
done, have the connecting rods checked for
bend and twist, since most machine shops
have special equipment for this purpose.
Note:Unless new pistons and/or connecting
rods must be fitted, do not dismantle the
pistons and connecting rods.
14Check the connecting rods for cracks and
other damage. Temporarily remove the rod
caps, lift out the old bearing shells, wipe the rod
and cap bearing surfaces clean, and inspect
them for nicks, gouges and scratches. After
checking the rods, fit new bearing shells, slip the
caps into place, and tighten the nuts finger-tight.
19 Crankshaft- inspection
3
1Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil
holes with a stone, file or scraper (see
illustration).2Clean the crankshaft with solvent, and dry it
with compressed air (if available). Be sure to
clean the oil holes with a stiff brush (see
illustration), and flush them with solvent.
3Check the main and connecting big-end
bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring, pits
and cracks.
4Rub a copper coin across each journal
several times (see illustration). If a journal
picks up copper from the coin, it’s too rough
and must be reground.
5Check the rest of the crankshaft for cracks
and other damage. If necessary, have a
machine shop inspect the crankshaft.
6Using a micrometer, measure the diameter
of the main and connecting rod journals, and
compare the results to this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations (see illustration). By measuring the
diameter at a number of points around each
journal’s circumference, you’ll be able to
determine whether or not the journal is out-of-
round. Take the measurement at each end of
the journal, near the crank webs, to determine
if the journal is tapered.
7If the crankshaft journals are damaged,
tapered, out-of-round or worn beyond the
limits given in the Specifications, have the
crankshaft reground by a machine shop. Be
sure to use the correct-size bearing shells if
the crankshaft is reconditioned.
8Check the oil seal journals at each end ofthe crankshaft for wear and damage. If the
seal has worn a groove in the journal, or if it’s
nicked or scratched (see illustration), the
new seal may leak when the engine is
reassembled. In some cases, a machine shop
may be able to repair the journal by pressing
on a thin sleeve. If repair isn’t feasible, a new
or different crankshaft should be fitted.
9Examine the main and big-end bearing
shells (see Section 20).
20 Main and connecting
big-end bearings- inspection
3
1Even though the main and connecting big-
end bearings should be renewed during the
engine overhaul, the old bearings should be
retained for close examination, as they may
reveal valuable information about the
condition of the engine (see illustration).
2Bearing failure occurs because of lack of
lubrication, the presence of dirt or other
foreign particles, overloading the engine, and
corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing
failure, it must be corrected before the engine
is reassembled, to prevent it from happening
again.
General engine overhaul procedures 2B•17
19.4 Rubbing a penny lengthways on each
journal will reveal its condition - if copper
rubs off and is embedded in the crankshaft,
the journals should be reground19.2 Use a wire or stiff plastic bristle
brush to clean the oil passages in the
crankshaft19.1 The oil holes should be chamfered so
sharp edges don’t gouge or scratch the
new bearings
20.1 Typical bearing failures
A Scratched by dirt: debris embedded into
bearing material
B Lack of oil: overlay wiped out
C Improper seating: bright (polished) sections
D Tapered journal: overlay gone from entire
surface
E Radius ride
F Fatigue failure: craters or pockets
19.8 If the seals have worn grooves in the
crankshaft journals, or if the seal contact
surfaces are nicked or scratched, the new
seals will leak19.6 Measure the diameter of each
crankshaft journal at several points to
detect taper and out-of-round conditions
2B

3When examining the bearings, remove
them from the engine block, the main bearing
caps, the connecting rods and the rod caps,
and lay them out on a clean surface in the
same general position as their location in the
engine. This will enable you to match any
bearing problems with the corresponding
crankshaft journal.
4Dirt and other foreign particles get into the
engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in
the engine during assembly, or it may pass
through filters or the crankcase ventilation
(PCV) system. It may get into the oil, and from
there into the bearings. Metal chips from
machining operations and normal engine wear
are often present. Abrasives are sometimes
left in engine components after recondi-
tioning, especially when parts are not
thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning
methods. Whatever the source, these foreign
objects often end up embedded in the soft
bearing material, and are easily recognised.
Large particles will not embed in the bearing,
and will score or gouge the bearing and
journal. The best prevention for this cause of
bearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughly,
and to keep everything spotlessly-clean
during engine assembly. Frequent and regular
engine oil and filter changes are also
recommended.
5Lack of lubrication (or lubrication
breakdown) has a number of interrelated
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
overloading (which squeezes the oil from the
bearing face) and oil “leakage” or “throw off”
(from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil
pump, or high engine speeds) all contribute to
lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages,
which usually are the result of misaligned oil
holes in a bearing shell, will also oil-starve a
bearing and destroy it. When lack of
lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the
bearing material is wiped or extruded from the
steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures
may increase to the point where the steel
backing turns blue from overheating.
6Driving habits can have a definite effect on
bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation
(labouring the engine) puts very high loads onbearings, which tends to squeeze out the oil
film. These loads cause the bearings to flex,
which produces fine cracks in the bearing
face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing
material will loosen in places, and tear away
from the steel backing. Short-trip driving
leads to corrosion of bearings, because
insufficient engine heat is produced to drive
off the condensation and corrosive gases.
These products collect in the engine oil,
forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carried
to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and
corrodes the bearing material.
7Incorrect bearing refitting during engine
assembly will lead to bearing failure as well.
Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing
oil clearance, and will result in oil starvation.
Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a
bearing shell result in high spots on the
bearing, which will lead to failure.
21 Engine overhaul-
reassembly sequence
1Before beginning engine reassembly, make
sure you have all the necessary new parts,
gaskets and seals, as well as the following
items on hand:
Common hand tools
A torque wrench
Piston ring refitting tool
Piston ring compressor
Vibration damper refitting tool
Short lengths of rubber or plastic hose to fit
over connecting rod bolts (where
applicable)
Plastigage
Feeler gauges
A fine-tooth file
New engine oil
Engine assembly oil or molybdenum
disulphide (“moly”) grease
Gasket sealant
Thread-locking compound
2In order to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly should be done in the
following general order:Piston rings
Crankshaft and main bearings
Piston/connecting rod assemblies
Oil pump
Sump
Cylinder head assembly
Timing belt or chain and tensioner
assemblies
Water pump
Timing belt or chain covers
Intake and exhaust manifolds
Valve cover
Engine rear plate
Flywheel/driveplate
22 Piston rings- refitting
2
1Before fitting the new piston rings, the ring
end gaps must be checked. It’s assumed that
the piston ring side clearance has been
checked and verified (see Section 18).
2Lay out the piston/connecting rod
assemblies and the new ring sets, so that the
ring sets will be matched with the same piston
and cylinder during the end gap measurement
and engine assembly.
3Insert the top ring into the first cylinder, and
square it up with the cylinder walls by pushing
it in with the top of the piston (see illustration).
The ring should be near the bottom of the
cylinder, at the lower limit of ring travel.
4To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges
between the ends of the ring until a gauge equal
to the gap width is found(see illustration). The
feeler gauge should slide between the ring ends
with a slight amount of drag. Compare the
measurement to this Chapter’s Specifications.
If the gap is larger or smaller than specified,
double-check to make sure you have the
correct rings before proceeding.
5If the gap is too small, it must be enlarged,
or the ring ends may come in contact with
each other during engine operation, which
can cause serious damage to the engine. The
end gap can be increased by filing the ring
ends very carefully with a fine file. Mount the
2B•18 General engine overhaul procedures
22.5 If the end gap is too small, clamp a
file in a vice, and file the ring ends (from
the outside in only) to enlarge the gap
slightly22.4 With the ring square in the cylinder,
measure the end gap with a feeler gauge22.3 When checking piston ring end gap,
the ring must be square in the cylinder
bore (this is done by pushing the ring down
with the top of a piston as shown)

file in a vice equipped with soft jaws, slip the
ring over the file, with the ends contacting the
file face, and slowly move the ring to remove
material from the ends. When performing this
operation, file only from the outside in(see
illustration).
6Excess end gap isn’t critical unless it’s
greater than 1.0 mm. Again, double-check to
make sure you have the correct rings for your
engine.
7Repeat the procedure for each ring that will
be fitted in the first cylinder and for each ring
in the remaining cylinders. Remember to keep
rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
8Once the ring end gaps have been
checked/corrected, the rings can be fitted on
the pistons.
9The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is usually fitted first. It’s normally
composed of three separate components.
Slip the spacer/expander into the groove(see
illustration). If an anti-rotation tang is used,
make sure it’s inserted into the drilled hole in
the ring groove. Next, refit the lower side rail.
Don’t use a piston ring refitting tool on the oil
ring side rails, as they may be damaged.
Instead, place one end of the side rail into the
groove between the spacer/expander and the
ring land, hold it firmly in place, and slide a
finger around the piston while pushing the rail
into the groove(see illustration). Next, refit
the upper side rail in the same manner.
10After the three oil ring components have
been fitted, check to make sure that both the
upper and lower side rails can be turned
smoothly in the ring groove.
11The middle ring is fitted next. It’s usually
stamped with a mark which must face up,
towards the top of the piston. Note:Always
follow the instructions printed on the ring
package or box - different manufacturers may
require different approaches. Do not mix up
the top and middle rings, as they have
different cross-sections.
12Make sure the identification mark is facing
the top of the piston, then slip the ring into the
middle groove on the piston (see illus-
tration 18.2). Don’t expand the ring any more
than necessary to slide it over the piston. Use
a proper ring-fitting tool if available; with care,
old feeler gauges can be used to prevent the
rings dropping into empty grooves.13Refit the top ring in the same manner.
Make sure the mark is facing upwards. Be
careful not to confuse the top and middle
rings.
14Repeat the procedure for the remaining
pistons and rings.
23 Intermediate shaft- refitting
5
1Clean the intermediate shaft bearing
surfaces and the pressed-in bearing sleeves
in the cylinder block.
2Lubricate the shaft, and slide it into the
block.
3Refit the two bolts that hold the retaining
plate to the block.
4The remainder of the parts are fitted in the
reverse order of removal.
24 Crankshaft- refitting and
main bearing oil clearance
check
4
1Crankshaft refitting is the first major step in
engine reassembly. It’s assumed at this point
that the engine block and crankshaft have
been cleaned, inspected, and repaired or
reconditioned.
2Position the block upside-down.
3Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and liftout the caps. Lay them out in the proper order
to ensure correct refitting.
4If they’re still in place, remove the original
bearing shells from the block and the main
bearing caps. Wipe the bearing surfaces of
the block and caps with a clean, lint-free
cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean.
Main bearing oil clearance
check
5Clean the back sides of the new main
bearing shells, and lay one in each main
bearing saddle in the block. If one of the
bearing shells from each set has a large
groove in it, make sure the grooved shell is
fitted in the block. Lay the other bearing from
each set in the corresponding main bearing
cap. Make sure the tab on the bearing shell
fits into the recess in the block or cap.
Caution: The oil holes in the
block must line up with the oil
holes in the bearing shell. Do not
hammer the bearing into place,
and don’t nick or gouge the bearing faces.
No lubrication should be used at this time.
6The flanged thrust bearing must be fitted in
the No 3 bearing cap and saddle in the M10
engine, in the No 6 bearing cap and saddle in
the M20 engine (see illustration), in the No 4
bearing cap and saddle in the M30 engine,
and in the No 4 bearing saddle only in the
M40 engine.
7Clean the faces of the bearings in the block
and the crankshaft main bearing journals with
a clean, lint-free cloth.
8Check or clean the oil holes in the
crankshaft, as any dirt here can go only one
way - straight through the new bearings.
9Once you’re certain the crankshaft is clean,
carefully lay it in position in the main bearings.
10Before the crankshaft can be permanently
fitted, the main bearing oil clearance must be
checked.
11Cut several pieces of the appropriate-size
Plastigage (they must be slightly shorter than
the width of the main bearings), and place one
piece on each crankshaft main bearing
journal, parallel with the crankshaft centreline
(see illustration).
12Clean the faces of the bearings in the
caps, and refit the caps in their respective
General engine overhaul procedures 2B•19
22.9b DO NOT use a piston ring refitting
tool when refitting the oil ring side rails22.9a Refitting the spacer/expander in the
oil control ring groove
24.11 Lay the Plastigage strips on the
main bearing journals, parallel to the
crankshaft centreline24.6 Refitting a thrust main bearing (note
the flanges) in the engine block bearing
saddle
2B

positions (don’t mix them up) with the arrows
pointing towards the front of the engine. Don’t
disturb the Plastigage.
13Starting with the centre main bearing and
working out toward the ends, progressively
tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
On M10, M20 and M30 engines, tighten the
bolts in three stages. On the M40 engine,
tighten all the bolts initially to the Stage 1
torque, then angle-tighten them by the angle
given in the Specifications. Carry out the
angle-tightening on each bolt in one
controlled movement. Don’t rotate the
crankshaft at any time during the tightening
operation.
14Remove the bolts and carefully lift off the
main bearing caps. Keep them in order. Don’t
disturb the Plastigage or rotate the
crankshaft. If any of the main bearing caps are
difficult to remove, tap them gently from side-
to-side with a soft-face hammer to loosen
them.
15Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage on each journal to the scale printed
on the Plastigage envelope to obtain the main
bearing oil clearance (see illustration). Check
the Specifications to make sure it’s correct.
16If the clearance is not as specified, thebearing shells may be the wrong size (which
means different ones will be required). Before
deciding that different shells are needed,
make sure that no dirt or oil was between the
bearing shells and the caps or block when the
clearance was measured. If the Plastigage
was wider at one end than the other, the
journal may be tapered (see Section 19).
17Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigage material off the main bearing
journals and/or the bearing faces. Use your
fingernail or the edge of a credit card - don’t
nick or scratch the bearing faces.
Final crankshaft refitting
18Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine.
19Clean the bearing faces in the block, then
apply a thin, uniform layer of molybdenum
disulphide (“moly”) grease or engine oil to
each of the bearing surfaces. Be sure to coat
the thrust faces as well as the journal face of
the thrust bearing.
20Make sure the crankshaft journals are
clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in
the block.
21Clean the faces of the bearings in the
caps, then apply engine oil to them.
22Refit the caps in their respective
positions, with the arrows pointing towards
the front of the engine.
23Refit the bolts finger-tight.
24Lightly tap the ends of the crankshaft
forward and backward with a lead or brass
hammer, to line up the main bearing and
crankshaft thrust surfaces.
25Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the
specified torque, working from the centre
outwards. On M10, M20 and M30 engines,
tighten the bolts in three stages to the final
torque, leaving out the thrust bearing cap
bolts at this stage. On M40 engines, tighten all
of the bolts in the two stages given in the
Specifications.
26On M10, M20 and M30 engines, tighten
the thrust bearing cap bolts to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
27On manual transmission models, fit a new
pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft (see
Chapter 8).28Rotate the crankshaft a number of times
by hand to check for any obvious binding.
29The final step is to check the crankshaft
endfloat with a feeler gauge or a dial indicator
as described in Section 13. The endfloat
should be correct, providing the crankshaft
thrust faces aren’t worn or damaged, and new
bearings have been fitted.
30Fit the new seal, then bolt the housing to
the block (see Section 25).
25 Crankshaft rear oil seal-
refitting
3
1The crankshaft must be fitted first, and the
main bearing caps bolted in place. The new
seal should then be fitted in the retainer, and
the retainer bolted to the block.
2Before refitting the crankshaft, check the
seal contact surface very carefully for
scratches and nicks that could damage the
new seal lip and cause oil leaks. If the
crankshaft is damaged, the only alternative is
a new or different crankshaft, unless a
machine shop can suggest a means of repair.
3The old seal can be removed from the
housing with a hammer and punch by driving
it out from the back side (see illustration). Be
sure to note how far it’s recessed into the
housing bore before removing it; the new seal
will have to be recessed an equal amount. Be
very careful not to scratch or otherwise
damage the bore in the housing, or oil leaks
could develop.
4Make sure the retainer is clean, then apply
a thin coat of engine oil to the outer edge of
the new seal. The seal must be pressed
squarely into the housing bore, so hammering
it into place is not recommended. At the very
least, use a block of wood as shown, or a
section of large-diameter pipe (see
illustration). If you don’t have access to a
press, sandwich the housing and seal
between two smooth pieces of wood, and
press the seal into place with the jaws of a
large vice. The pieces of wood must be thick
enough to distribute the force evenly around
the entire circumference of the seal. Work
2B•20 General engine overhaul procedures
25.5 Lubricate the lip of the seal, and bolt
the retainer to the rear of the engine block25.4 Drive the new seal into the retainer
with a wooden block or a section of pipe, if
you have one large enough - make sure
the seal enters the retainer bore squarely25.3 After removing the retainer from the
block, support it on two wooden blocks,
and drive out the old seal with a punch and
hammer
24.15 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage to the scale on the envelope to
determine the main bearing oil clearance
(always take the measurement at the
widest point of the Plastigage); be sure to
use the correct scale - standard and
metric ones are included