brake light BUICK CENTURY 1993 User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: BUICK, Model Year: 1993, Model line: CENTURY, Model: BUICK CENTURY 1993Pages: 324, PDF Size: 17.58 MB
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If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic
following distances, you
will eliminate a lot of
unnecessary braking. That means better braking and
longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you're driving, brake
normally but don't pump your brakes. If you do, the
pedal may get harder
to push down. If your engine
stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But
you will use it when
you brake. Once the power assist
is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake
pedal will be harder to push.
Disc Brake Wear Indicators
Your Buick has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes.
I A CAUTION:
The brake wear wamlng sound means that
sooner or later pur brakes won't work well.
That could lead to an accident. When you hear
the brake wear warning sound, have your
vehlcle serviced.
I
Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a
high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake
worn and new pads
are needed. The sound may come squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly
and
go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving applied. This do\
es not mean something is wrong with
(except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly). your brakes.
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Page 152 of 324

Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops
or the system
fails to function, you can steer but it will
take much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on
the news happen on curves. Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to
the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The
traction
of the tires against the road surface makes it
possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn
the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep
the vehicle going
in the same direction. If you’ve ever
tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand
this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition
of your tires and the road surhce, the angle at
which the curve is banked, and your
speed. While you’re
in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
Suppose you’re steering through
a sharp curve. Then you
suddenly apply
the brakes. Both control systems-
steering and braking-have
to do their work where the
tires meet the road. Adding the hard braking can demand
too much at those places. You can lose control.
The
same thing can happen if you’re steering through a’
sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two
control systems-steering and acceleration-can
overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose ‘control.
What should you do
if this ever happens? Let up on the
brake or accelerator
pedal, steer the vehicle the way you
want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust
your
speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on
good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable
conditions you’ll want
to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a
curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front
wheels
are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so
you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a
reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are
out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the
straightaway.
When you drive
into a curve at night, it’s harder to see
the road ahead of you because it bends away .from the
straight beams of your lights.
This is one good reason to
drive slower.
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Page 156 of 324

Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.
Even though the brake lights are not flashing, it
may be
slowing down or starting to turn.
driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little
to the right.
If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following
Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens
when the three control systems (brakes, steering and
acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires
meet the road
to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and
constantly
seek an escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids
by taking reasonable
care suited
to existing conditions, and by not
“overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always
possible.
The three types
of skids correspond to your Buick‘s three
control systems. In the braking skid your wheels aren’t
rolling.
In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed
or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And
in the acceleration skid too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
I
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best
handled by easing your foot
off the accelerator pedal. If
your vehicle starts to slide (as when you turn a corner on
a wet, snow- or ice-covered road), ease your
foot off the
accelerator pedal as soon as you feel the vehicle start to
slide. Quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If
you
start steering quickly enough, your vehicle will
straighten out. As it does, straighten the front wheels.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road.
For safety, you’ll
want to slow down and adjust your driving
to these
conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surfhce
with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or
braking (including engine braking
by shifting to a lower
gear).
Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide.
You may not realize the surface is slippery until your
vehicle is skidding.
Learn to recognize warning clues-
such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road
to
make a “mirrored surface”-and slow down when you
have
any doubt.
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In a braking skid (where the wheels are no longer
rolling), release enough pressure on the brakes to get the
wheels rolling again.
This restores steering control. Push
the brake
pedal down steadily when you have to stop
suddenly.
As long as the wheels are rolling, you will have
steering control. Steer the way you want to go.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One
reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired-by
alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving.
Drive defensively. Remember, this is the most
dangerous time.
Don’t drink and drive. (See “Drunken Driving” in the
Index for more on this problem.)
Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare
from headlights behind you.
Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow
down and keep more space between you and other
vehicles. It’s hard to tell how fast the vehicle ahead is
going just by looking at its taillights.
Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your
headlights can light up only
so much road ahead.
In remote areas, watch for animals.
If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.
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Driving too fast through large water puddles or even
going through some car washes can cause problems, too.
The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles.
But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.
A CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They-won’t
work well in
a quick stop and may cause
pulling to one side. Ybu could lose control
of
the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water
or I car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly
until your
brakes work normally.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up
under your tires that they can actually ride on the water.
This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re
going fast enough. When your vehicle
is hydroplaning, it
has
little or no contact with the road.
You might not be aware of hydroplaning. You could drive
along for some time without realizing your tires aren’t in
constant contact with the road. You could
find out the
hard way: when you have’to slow, turn, move out to
pass-or if you get hit
by a gust of wind. You could
suddenly find yourself out
of control.
Hydroplaning doesn’t happen at higher
speeds. But it can
if your tires haven’t much tread or
if the pressure in one
or
more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing
on the road.
If you can see reflections from trees,
telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops
“dimple” the water’s surface, there could be
hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There
just isn’t a hard and
fast rule about hydroplaning. The
best advice is to slow down when it is raining, and be careful.
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If you are moving from an outside to a center lane on a
freeway, having more than two lanes, make sure another
vehicle isn’t about
to move into the same spot. Look at
the vehicles two lanes over and watch for telltale signs:
turn signals flashing, an increase in speed, or moving
toward the edge of the lane. Be prepared to delay your
move.
Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you
allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night.
Leaving the Freeway
When you want to-leave the freeway, move to the proper
lane well in advance. Dashing across lanes at the last
minute is dangerous.
If you miss your exit do not, under
any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive
on to the
next exit.
At each exit point is a deceleration lane. Ideally it should
be long enough for you to enter it at freeway speed (after
signaling, of course) and then do your braking before
moving onto the exit ramp. Unfortunately, not all
deceleration lanes are long enough-some are too short
for
all the braking. Decide when to start braking. If you
must bkke on the through lane, and if there is traffic
close behind you, you can allow a little extra time and
flash your brake lights (in addition to your
turn signal) as
extra warning that you are about to slow down and exit. The ,exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The exit
speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed
according to your speedometer, not to your sense of
motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds,
you may tend to
think you are going slower than you
actually
are. For example, 40 mph (65 km/h) might. seem
like only
20 mph (30 ludh). Obviously, this could lead
to serious trouble on a ramp designed for
20 mph
(30 ludh)!
Driving a Long Distance
Although most long trips today are made on freeways,
there are still many made on regular highways.
Long-distance driving on freeways and regular highways
is
the same in some ways. The trip has to be planned and
the vehicle prepared, you drive at higher-than-city
speeds, and there are longer turns behind the wheel.
You’ll enjoy your trip more if you and your vehicle are in
good shape. Here are some tips for a successful long trip.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you
must start when you’re not fresh-such as after a day’s
work-don’t plan to make too many miles that first part
of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you
can easily drive in.
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Page 181 of 324

Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get t\
o
know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the
feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you
are driving
is now a good deal longer and not nearly
so responsive as
your vehicle is by itself.
Before you
start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety
chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror
adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes,
start your vehicle
and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller \
by hand to be sure the brakes
are working. This lets you
check your electrical connection at the same time. During
your trip, check occasionally
to be sure that the load is secure,
and that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as fit, behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re
towing
a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer,
you’ll
need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle
before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left.
To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
Making nrns
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal.
Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft
shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Mler
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a
different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you
signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re \
about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on
the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers
behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
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Page 188 of 324

‘
A CAUTION:
Mu could be injured if the vehicles roll. Set
the parking brake firmly
on each vehicle. Put
an automatic transaxle
in “P” (Park) or a
manual transaxle
in “N” (Neutral). I
3. ”urn off the igni;,,n on both vehicles. lwLLL all .,hts
that aren’t needed, and radios. This will avoid sparla
and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!
If you leave your radio OI,, it could be badl,
4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries.
I 1
A CAUTION:
An electric fan can start up even when the
engine
is not running and can Injure you. Keep
hands, clothing and tools
away from any
underhood electric fan.
I
Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on
each battery.
-
/1 CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause
battery gas to explode. People have been hurt
doing this, and some have been blinded.
Use a
flashlight If you need more light.
Be sure the battery has enough water. Mu
don’t need to add water to the Delco
Freedom@ battery installed
in every new GM
vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure
the
right amount of fluid is there. If it is low,
add water to take care of that first. It you don’t,
explosive gas could be present.
Battery
fluid contains acid that can burn you.
Don’t get it on you. Ifyou accidentally get it in
your
eyes or on your skin, flush the place with
water and get medical help immediately.
-
5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation.
If they do, you could get a shock.
The vehicles could be damaged, too.
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Brake Master Cylinder
I
Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with
DOT-3 brake fluid.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in
your master cylinder might go down. The first is that
the
brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in,
the fluid level goes back
up.
The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake
system.
If it is, you should have your brake system fixed,
since a leak means that sooner
or later your brakes won’t
work well, or won’t work at all.
So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid.
Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid
when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much
fluid when you get new brake linings.
You should add (01
remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is
done on the brake hydraulic system.
A CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on
the engine. The fluid
will burn if the engine is
hot enough. Mu or others could be burned,
and your vehicle could
be damaged. Add
brake fluid only when work is done on the
brake hydraulic system.
When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake
warning light will come on. See “Brake System Warning
Light” in the Index.
What to Add:
When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake
fluid-such as Delco Supreme
ll@ (GM Part No.
1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container
only.
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Fuse Usage
I
I
Fuse Rating
(AMPS)
A
B
C
D E
15
20
10
10
15
ECM; MAF Sensor (3300 Engine only)
ECM Injectors/Coil
Eng. A/C Relay; EGR Solenoid; Canister Purge Solenoid
Fan/Elect; Generator; DRL Module
Turn Signal Flasher; Back-up Lights;
TruWLiftgate Release
Fuse
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
Rating
(AMPS)
10
20
20
10
20
20
30"
5
Circuitry N
0
P
Q
10
30"
25
20
15
15
15
Circuitry
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (Air Bagj
Tail; Park; Side Marker; License Plate; Stop/Turn Signal
Heater/Air Conditioner
Gages; Warning Indicators; Torque Convert
Clutch; Audible Warning System; Computer Command Control; Trunk Release; Brake
Warning Indicator; Rear Defog Switch;
Speedometer
Stop Lights; Hazard Flashers
Interior, Underhood, Courtesy, I/P, Trunk Lights; Door
Locks; Horn Relay, Passive Restraint
System, Deck Lid Release, Power Antenna
Liftgate Release; Power Windows
Illumination for: I/P, Radio,
Pod Lights,
Ashtray, Console Light, Heater-A/C Control,
Defog Switch, Headlight Switch
Radio, Cruise Control
Seats, Door
Locks, Rear Defog
Windshield Wipe/Wash
Cigarette Lighter
Safety Belt/Chirne (ICAM) Module (Located
behind the fuse block, above the hush panel.)
Remote Lock Control (Located behind the fuse
block, above the hush panel.) Fuel Pump, ECM (Located under the hood.)
*Circuit Breaker
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