lock CADILLAC CATERA 1997 1.G Repair Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CADILLAC, Model Year: 1997, Model line: CATERA, Model: CADILLAC CATERA 1997 1.GPages: 338, PDF Size: 18.02 MB
Page 194 of 338

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the
least traction
of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about
freezing
(32°F; 0” C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Keep your traction control system on.
It improves your
ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road.
Even though your vehicle has a traction control system,
you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the
road conditions. See “Traction Control System” in the
Index. Also, see “Third Gear Start” in the Index. Your
anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll
want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where
the sun can’t reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may
remain icy
when the surrounding roads are clear. If
you see a patch
of ice ahead of you, brake before you
are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on
the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
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Page 196 of 338

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine A CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly
CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside.
CO could overcome you and kill
you. You can’t see it or smell it,
so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially any
that
is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check
around again from time to time to be sure snow
doesn’t collect there.
Open
a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help
keep
CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you
run the engine, make it go .a little faster
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This
uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the
battery charged.
You will need a well-charged battery to
restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later
on
with your headlamps. Let the heater run for awhile.
Then, shut the engine
off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again
and repeat this only when
you feel really uncomfortable
from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the
fuel as long as
you can. To help keep warm, you can get
out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or
so until help comes.
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Page 203 of 338

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer
so that the tongue will not drop to the road
if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided by the hitch
manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety
chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always
leave just enough slack
so you can turn with your rig.
And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Because your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, don’t try to
tap into the hydraulic brake system. If you do, both
brake systems won’t work well, or at all.
Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer
brakes
so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain
them properly.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your
rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight
of the trailer. And
always keep in mind that the vehicle you
are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check
the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes
are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load
is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to
go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
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Page 217 of 338

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key
turned to the
OFF position. The steering wheel should
be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping
device designed for towing service.
Do not use the
vehicle’s steering column
lock for this. The transmission
should be in
NEUTRAL (N) and the parking
brake released.
Don’t have your vehicle towed
on the drive wheels.
Front Towing
NOTICE:
Do not tow with sling type or wheel-lift
equipment or fascidfog lamp damage may occur.
Use car-carrier equipment only. Additional
ramping may be required for car-carrier
equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps.
Do not attach winch cables, T-hooks or J-hooks
to suspension components when using car-carrier
equipment.
Always use R-hooks inserted into
the R-hook slots.
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Page 227 of 338

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure
cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose,
is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly
counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don't press
down while turning the pressure cap.)
If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop.
A hiss means
there is still some pressure left.
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and
remove it.
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Page 230 of 338

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn
on your hazard
warning flashers.
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people.
You and they could be badly injured.
Find
a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
2. Set the parking brake firmly.
3. Turn off the engine.
To be even more certain the vehicle won't move,
you can put blocks at the front and rear of the
tire farthest away from the one being changed.
That would be the tire on the other side of the
vehicle, at the opposite end.
....__..... .._........
.......*.....
1.
The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and
change a tire.
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Page 232 of 338

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine The jack and tool kit
are located on the
passenger's side
of the
trunk. Pull the red handle to
remove the cover and access
the equipment.
Turn the
nut holding the jack counterclockwise and
remove
it.
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Page 234 of 338

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the
Spare Tire
Seven-Spoke Wheel
1. If you have the seven-spoke wheel, using the wheel
wrench, loosen all of the wheel bolts. Don’t remove
them yet.
If
you have the five-spoke wheel (not shown), use
the flat end of the screwdriver to pry off the five
black plastic wheel bolt caps.
Then, using the wheel
wrench, loosen all
of the wheel bolts. Don’t remove
them
yet.
2. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the jack lift
head
a few inches.
3. To access the jack hoisting notches, slide the cover
out (located either in front of
or behind the tire you
are changing).
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Page 236 of 338

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle
clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough
off the
ground for the spare tire to fit under the vehicle.
5. Remove all wheel bolts and take off the flat tire.
6. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces and
spare wheel.
A CAUTION:
I
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel
bolts
become loose after a time. The wheel could come
off and cause an accident. When you change a
wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places
where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an
emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel
to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust
or
dirt off.
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Page 237 of 338

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine A CAUTION:
r
Never use oil or grease on wheel bolts. If you do,
the bolts might come loose. Your wheel could fall
off, causing a serious accident.
7. Replace the wheel
bolts. Tighten each
bolt by hand until
the wheel
is held
against the hub.
8. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
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