ignition CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1982, Model line: CAMARO, Model: CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982Pages: 875, PDF Size: 88.64 MB
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ENGINE & ENGINE OVERHAUL
ENGINE ELECTRICAL
ENGINE ELECTRICAL
The engine electrical system can be brok en down into three inter-related, but
distinct systems:
1. The starting system.
2. The charging system.
3. The ignition system.
BATTERY AND STARTING SYSTEM
The battery is the first link in the chai n of mechanisms which work together to
provide cranking of the autom obile engine. In most modern cars, the battery is a
lead-acid electrochemical device consis ting of six two-volt (2V) subsections
connected in series so the unit is c apable of producing approximately 12V of
electrical pressure. Each subsection, or ce ll, consists of a series of positive and
negative plates held a short distance apart in a solution of sulfuric acid and
water. The two types of plates are of di ssimilar metals. This causes a chemical
reaction to be set up, and it is this reacti on which produces current flow from the
battery when its positive and negative te rminals are connected to an electrical
appliance such as a lamp or motor.
The continued transfer of electrons would ev entually convert the sulfuric acid in
the electrolyte to water and make t he two plates identical in chemical
composition. As electrical energy is removed from the battery, its voltage output
tends to drop. Thus, measuring batte ry voltage and battery electrolyte
composition are two ways of checking the ability of the unit to supply power.
During the starting of the eng ine, electrical energy is removed from the battery.
However, if the charging circuit is in good condition and the operating conditions
are normal, the power removed from the battery will be replaced by the
generator (or alternator) which will forc e electrons back through the battery,
reversing the normal flow, and restoring the ba ttery to its original chemical state.
The battery and starting motor are linked by very heavy electrical cable\
s
designed to minimize resistance to the flow of current. Generally, the major
power supply cable that leaves the batte ry goes directly to the starter, while
other electrical system needs are supplied by a smaller cable. During the starter
operation, power flows from the battery to the starter and is grounded through
the car's frame and the batte ry's negative ground strap.
The starting motor is a specially designed, direct current electric motor capable
of producing a very great am ount of power for its size. One thing that allows the
motor to produce a great deal of power is its tremendous rotating speed. It
drives the engine through a ti ny pinion gear (attached to the starter's armature),
which drives the very large flywheel ring gear at a greatly reduced speed.
Another factor allowing it to produce so much power is that only intermittent
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operation is required of it. Thus, little a
llowance for air circulation is required,
and the windings can be built into a very small space.
The starter solenoid is a magnetic dev ice which employs the small current
supplied by the starting switch circuit of the ignition switch. This magnetic action
moves a plunger which mechanically engages the starter and electrically closes
the heavy switch which connects it to t he battery. The starting switch circuit
consists of the starting switch cont ained within the ignition switch, a
transmission neutral safety switch or clutch pedal switch, and the wiring
necessary to connect these with the starter solenoid or relay.
A pinion, which is a small gear, is m ounted to a one-way drive clutch. This
clutch is splined to the starter armature shaft. When the ignition switch is moved
to the start position, the solenoid plunger slides the pinion toward the flywheel
ring gear via a collar and spring. If t he teeth on the pinion and flywheel match
properly, the pinion will engage the flywheel immediately. If the gear teeth butt
one another, the spring will be compressed and will force the gears to mesh as
soon as the starter turns far enough to a llow them to do so. As the solenoid
plunger reaches the end of it s travel, it closes the contacts that connect the
battery and starter and then the engine is cranked.
As soon as the engine star ts, the flywheel ring gear begins turning fast enough
to drive the pinion at an ex tremely high rate of speed. At this point, the one-way
clutch begins allowing the pi nion to spin faster than the starter shaft so that the
starter will not operate at excessive speed. When the i gnition switch is released
from the starter position, the solenoid is de-energized, and a spring contained
within the solenoid assembly pulls the gear out of mesh and interrupts the
current flow to the starter.
Some starters employ a separate relay, mounted away from the starter, to
switch the motor and solenoid current on and off. The relay thus replaces the
solenoid electrical switch, but does not eliminate the need for a solenoid
mounted on the starter used to mechanica lly engage the starter drive gears.
The relay is used to reduce the amount of current the starting switch must carry.
THE CHARGING SYSTEM
The automobile charging system provides electrical power for operation of the
vehicle's ignition and star ting systems and all the electrical accessories. The
battery serves as an electrical surge or storage tank, storing (in chemical form)
the energy originally pr oduced by the engine driven gen erator. The system also
provides a means of regulating alternat or output to protect the battery from
being overcharged and to avoid excess ive voltage to the accessories.
The storage battery is a chemical device in corporating parallel lead plates in a
tank containing a sulfuric acid-water solution. Adjacent plates are slightly
dissimilar, and the chemical reaction of the two dissimilar plates produces
electrical energy when the battery is connected to a load such as the starter
motor. The chemical reaction is reversible, so that when the generator i\
s
producing a voltage (electrical pressure ) greater than that produced by the
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battery, electricity is forced into the battery
, and the battery is returned to its fully
charged state.
Alternators are used on the modern autom obiles for they are lighter, more
efficient, can rotate at higher speeds and have fewer brush problems. In an
alternator, the field rotates while al l the current produced passes only through
the stators windings. The brushes bear agains t continuous slip rings rather than
a commutator. This causes the current produced to periodically reverse the
direction of its flow. Diodes (electrica l one-way switches) block the flow of
current from traveling in t he wrong direction. A series of diodes is wired together
to permit the alternating flow of the st ator to be converted to a pulsating, but
unidirectional flow at the alternator out put. The alternator's field is wired in
series with the voltage regulator.
Please refer to Engine Performance & Tune-up for ignition system testing
procedures.
IGNITION COIL
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
INTERNALLY MOUNTED COIL 1. Disconnect and label the wires from cap.
2. Remove the distributor cap from the distributor.
3. On the distributor cap, remove t he coil cover attaching screws and the
cover.
4. Remove the ignition coil attaching screws and lift the coil from the cap.
To install: 5. Position the coil and secure it with the attaching screws. Be sure to install
the carbon button and rubber disc first.
6. Install the coil cover and attaching screws.
7. Install the distributor cap.
8. Connect the wires to the cap.
EXTERNALLY MOUNTED COIL 1. Label and disconnect the wires from the coil.
2. Remove the ignition coil mounting bolts and the coil.
To install: 3. To install, position the coil into place and se cure it with the mounting
bolts.
4. Connect the wires to the coil.
IGNITION MODULE
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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the wires from the cap.
2. Remove the distributor cap.
3. Remove the two module attaching screws and capacitor attaching screw.
Lift module, capacitor and harnes s assembly from base.
4. Disconnect wiring harness.
To install: 5. Apply silicone grease underneath the module. This grease is necessary
for ignition module cooling.
6. Connect the wiring harness.
7. Install the module and attaching screws.
8. Install the distributor cap and wires.
DISTRIBUTOR
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Fig. 1: Matchmarking the rotor
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alternating current developed
within the stator windings to a direct (DC) current
at the output (BAT) terminal. Three of these diodes are negative and are
mounted flush with the end frame while t he other three are positive and are
mounted into a strip called a heat sink. The positive diodes are easily identified
as the ones within small cavities or depressions.
The alternator charging system is a negative (-) ground system which consists
of an alternator, a regulat or, a charge indicator, a storage battery and wiring
connecting the components, and fuse link wire.
The alternator is belt-driven from t he engine. Energy is supplied from the
alternator/regulator system to the rotati ng field through two brushes to two slip-
rings. The slip-rings are mounted on the rotor shaft and are connected t\
o the
field coil. This energy supplied to the ro tating field from the battery is called
excitation current and is used to init ially energize the field to begin the
generation of electricity. Once the alter nator starts to generate electricity, the
excitation current comes from its ow n output rather than the battery.
The alternator produces power in the form of alternating current. The alternating
current is rectified by 6 diodes into dire ct current. The direct current is used to
charge the battery and power the rest of the electrical system.
When the ignition key is turned ON, current flows from the battery, through the
charging system indicator light on the in strument panel, to the voltage regulator,
and to the alternator. Since the alternat or is not producing any current, the
alternator warning light comes on. When the engine is started, the alternator
begins to produce current and turns the alte rnator light off. As the alternator
turns and produces current, the current is divided in two ways: part to the
battery(to charge the battery and power the electrical components of the
vehicle), and part is returned to the alte rnator (to enable it to increase its
output). In this situation, the alternator is receiving current from the battery and
from itself. A voltage regulat or is wired into the current supply to the alternator
to prevent it from receiving too much cu rrent which would cause it to put out too
much current. Conversely, if the voltage regulator does not allow the alternator
to receive enough current, the battery will not be fully charged and will
eventually go dead.
The battery is connected to the alternator at all times, whether the ignition key is
turned ON or not. If the battery were shorted to ground, the alternator would
also be shorted. This woul d damage the alternator. To prevent this, a fuse link
is installed in the wiring between the battery and the alternator. If the battery is
shorted, the fuse link melts, protecting the alternator.
An alternator is better that a convent ional, DC shunt generator because it is
lighter and more compact, because it is designed to supply the battery and
accessory circuits through a wide range of engine speeds, and because it
eliminates the necessary maintenance of replacing brushes and servicing
commutators.
PRECAUTIONS
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5. If cover adheres to cylinder head,
shear off by bumping end of rocker
arm cover with palm of hand or rubber mallet. If cover still will not come
loose, CAREFULLY pry until loose. DO NOT DISTORT THE SEALING
FLANGE.
To install: 6. Clean the sealing surface of cyli nder head and intake manifold of all old
RTV or gasket. Make sure no oil or ol d gasket is present when applying
new RTV or gasket.
7. Place a
1/8 in. (3mm) bead of RTV sealan t all around the rocker arm
sealing surface or use a cork style gasket. (When going around the
attaching bolt holes, always flow t he RTV on the inboard side of the
holes).
8. Install cover and torque bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
9. Finish installation by reversing removal procedure.
PUSHROD SIDE COVER
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
2.5L ENGINE 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Mark and remove the distributor assembly.
3. Remove the ignition coil and bracket.
4. Remove the side cover retaining nuts and remove the cover.
To install: 5. Clean the cover sealing surfaces of all RTV or gasket material.
6. Place a
1/16 in. (5mm) bead of RTV sealan t all around the rocker arm
sealing surface or use a cork style gasket. (When going around the
attaching bolt holes, always flow t he RTV on the inboard side of the
holes).
7. Install cover and torque bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
8. Finish installation by reversing removal procedure.
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FUEL INJECTION
1. Remove the air cleaner.
2. Drain the radiator.
3. Disconnect: a. Battery cables at the battery.
b. Upper radiator and heater hoses at the manifold.
c. Crankcase ventilation hoses as required.
d. Fuel line at the carburetor.
e. Accelerator linkage.
f. Vacuum hose at the distributor, if equipped.
g. Power brake hose at the car buretor base or manifold, if
applicable.
h. Temperature sending switch wires.
4. Remove the distributor cap and scribe the rotor position relative to the
distributor body, and engine.
5. Remove the distributor.
6. If applicable, remove the alternator upper bracket. As required, remove
the air cleaner bracket, and accelerator bellcrank.
7. Remove the manifold-to-head attachi ng bolts, then remove the manifold
and carburetor as an assembly.
8. Mark and disconnect all emission re lated items (e.g.: wiring, vacuum
hoses, etc.) which are connected to manifold mounted items.
9. If the manifold is to be replaced , transfer the carburetor (and mounting
studs), water outlet and thermostat (use a new gasket) heater hose
adapter, EGR valve (use new gasket) and, if applicable, TVS switch(s)
and the choke coil.
To install: 10. Before installing the manifold, thoroughly clean the gasket and sealing
surfaces of the cylinder heads and manifold.
11. Install the manifold end seals, folding the tabs if applicable, and the
manifold/head gaskets, using a s ealing compound around the water
passages.
Make sure that the new manifold gaskets match the old ones EXACTLY.
12. When installing the manifold, care should be taken not to dislocate the
end seals. It is helpful to use a pilo t in the distributor opening. Tighten the
manifold bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) for 5.0L or 20-25 ft. lbs. (27-34 Nm)
for 2.8L in the sequence illustrated.
13. Install the distributor with the rotor in its original location as indicated by
the scribe line. If the engi ne has been disturbed, refer to the previous
Distributor Removal and Installation procedure.
14. If applicable, install the alter nator upper bracket and adjust the belt
tension.
15. Connect all disconnected components at their original locations.
16. Fill the cooling system, start the engine, check for leaks and adjust the
ignition timing and carburetor idle speed and mixture.
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When servicing the engine, be absolutely sure to mark vacuum hoses and
wiring so that these items
may be properly reconnected during installation. Also,
when disconnecting fittings of metal lines (fuel, power brake vacuum), always
use two flare nut (or line) wrenches. Ho ld the wrench on the large fitting with
pressure on the wrench as if you were tightening the fitting (clockwise), THEN
loosen and disconnect the smaller fitting fr om the larger fitting. If this is not
done, damage to the line will result.
CAUTION - When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are
attracted by the ethylene gl ycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that
is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove
fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drai n the coolant into a sealable container.
Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
2.5L ENGINE
Fig. 1: Cylinder head bolt torque sequence for 2.5L engine
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the engine block and radiator of coolant.
3. Raise and safely support the vehi cle. Remove the exhaust pipe and
lower the vehicle.
4. Remove the oil level indicator tube.
5. Remove the air cleaner.
6. Unplug the electrical and vac uum connections and disconnect the
linkage from the TBI unit.
7. Disconnect the fuel lines.
8. Remove the EGR valve.
9. Disconnect the heater hoses from the intake manifold.
10. Remove the ignition coil.
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16. Fill the cooling syst
em with the proper type and amount of coolant.
Connect the negative battery cable.
17. Raise and support the vehicle safely . Install a new oil filter, lower the
vehicle. Fill the crankcase with the proper type and quantity of engine oil.
18. Start the engine, check for lea ks and check the ignition timing.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
CAUTION - The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may
cause a number of skin disorders, incl uding cancer! You should make every
effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Pr otective gloves should be
worn when changing the oil. Wash y our hands and any other exposed skin
areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or
waterless hand cleaner should be used.
EXCEPT 2.5L ENGINE
Fig. 1: Oil pan - 1982-86 V6
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Ensure that oil holes are properly al
igned. Replace camshaft rear plug, and
stake it into position to aid retention.
INSPECTION
CAMSHAFT LOBE LIFT
Check the lift of each lobe in consecutiv e order and make a note of the reading.
1. Remove the fresh air inlet tube a nd the air cleaner. Remove the heater
hose and crankcase ventilation hoses. Remove valve rocker arm
cover(s).
2. Remove the rocker arm stud nut or fulcrum bolts, fulcrum seat and rocker
arm.
3. Make sure the pushrod is in the valve tappet socket. Install a dial indicator so that the actuating poin t of the indicator is in the pushrod
socket (or the indicator ball socket adapter tool is on the end of the
pushrod) and in the same plane as the pushrod movement.
4. Disable the ignition and fuel systems.
5. Install a remote starter switch. Crank the engine with the ignition and fuel
system disabled. Turn the crankshaft ov er until the tappet is on the base
circle of the camshaft lobe. At this position, the pushrod will be in its
lowest position.
6. Zero the dial indicator. Continue to rotate the crankshaft slowly until the
pushrod is in the fully raised position.
7. Compare the total lift recorded on the dial indicator with the specification
shown on the Camshaft Specification chart.
To check the accuracy of the original in dicator reading, continue to rotate the
crankshaft until the indicator reads zero. If the lift on any lobe is below specified
wear limits listed, the ca mshaft and the valve tappet operating on the worn
lobe(s) must be replaced.
8. Install the rocker arm, fulcrum seat and stud nut or fulcrum bolts. Adjust
the valves, if required (r efer to the valves procedure in this section).
9. Install the valve rocker arm cover(s) and the air cleaner.
CAMSHAFT END PLAY
On all gasoline V8 engi nes, prying against the aluminum-nylon camshaft
sprocket, with the valve train load on t he camshaft, can break or damage the
sprocket. Therefore, the rocker arm adj usting nuts must be backed off, or the
rocker arm and shaft assembly must be loosened sufficiently to free the
camshaft. After checking the camshaft e nd play, check the valve clearance.
Adjust if required (refer to procedure in this section).
1. Push the camshaft toward the rear of the engine. Install a dial indicator or
equivalent so that the indicator point is on the camshaft sprocket
attaching screw.