oil type CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 462
REPLACEMENT
There are basically two types of exhaust sy
stems. One is the flange type where
the component ends are attached with bolts and a gasket in-between. The other
exhaust system is the slip joint type. These components slip into one another
using clamps to retain them together.
CAUTION - Allow the exhaust system to c ool sufficiently before spraying a
solvent exhaust fasteners. Some solvents are highly flammable and could ignite
when sprayed on hot exhaust components.
Before removing any component of the ex haust system, ALWAYS squirt a liquid
rust dissolving agent onto the fasteners fo r ease of removal. A lot of knuckle
skin will be saved by following this rule. It may even be wise to spray the
fasteners and allow them to sit overnight.

Fig. 8: Nuts and bolts will be extremely difficult to remove when deteriorated
with rust
FLANGE TYPE
CAUTION - Do NOT perform exhaust repairs or inspection with the engine or
exhaust hot. Allow the system to cool completely before attempting any work.
Exhaust systems are noted for sharp edges , flaking metal and rusted bolts.
Gloves and eye protection ar e required. A healthy supply of penetrating oil and
rags is highly recommended. Never spra y liquid rust dissolving agent onto a hot
exhaust component.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 466
wear. Worn piston rings, scored or wo
rn cylinder bores, blown head gaskets,
sticking or burnt valves, and worn valve seats are all possible culprits. A check
of each cylinder's compression will help locate the problem.
A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate than the type you simply
hold against the spark plug hole. Although it takes slightly longer to use, it's
worth the effort to obtain a more accurate reading.
1. Make sure that the proper amount and viscosity of engine oil is in the
crankcase, then ensure the battery is fully charged.
2. Warm-up the engine to normal operat ing temperature, then shut the
engine OFF.
3. Disable the ignition system.
4. Label and disconnect all of the spark plug wires from the plugs.
5. Thoroughly clean the cylinder h ead area around the spark plug ports,
then remove the spark plugs.
6. Set the throttle plate to the fully open (wide-open throttle) position. You
can block the accelerator linkage open for this, or you can have an
assistant fully depress the accelerator pedal.

Fig. 1: A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate and easier to use
without an assistant
7. Install a screw-in type compression gauge into the No. 1 spark plug hole
until the fitting is snug.
WARNING - Be careful not to crossthread the spark plug hole.

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Most of the cleaning process can
be carried out with common hand tools and
readily available solvents or soluti ons. Carbon deposits can be chipped away
using a hammer and a hard wooden chisel. Old gasket material and varnish or
sludge can usually be re moved using a scraper and/ or cleaning solvent.
Extremely stubborn deposits may require the use of a power drill with a wire
brush. If using a wire brush, use extrem e care around any critical machined
surfaces (such as the gasket surfaces, bearing saddles, cylinder bores, etc.).
Use of a wire brush is NOT RECO MMENDED on any aluminum components.
Always follow any safety recommendations given by the manufacturer of the
tool and/or solvent. You s hould always wear eye prot ection during any cleaning
process involving scraping, chipping or spraying of solvents.
An alternative to the mess and hassle of cl eaning the parts yourself is to drop
them off at a local garage or machine shop. They will, more than likely, have the
necessary equipment to properly clean all of the parts for a nominal fee.
CAUTION - Always wear eye protection duri ng any cleaning process involving
scraping, chipping or spraying of solvents.

Fig. 2: Use a ring expander tool to remove the piston rings
Remove any oil galley plugs, freeze pl ugs and/or pressed-in bearings and
carefully wash and degrease all of the engine components including the
fasteners and bolts. Small par ts such as the valves, springs, etc., should be
placed in a metal basket and allowed to soak. Use pipe cleaner type brushes,
and clean all passageways in the co mponents. Use a ring expander and
remove the rings from the pistons. Cl ean the piston ring grooves with a special
tool or a piece of broken ri ng. Scrape the carbon off of the top of the piston. You
should never use a wire brush on the pist ons. After preparing all of the piston
assemblies in this manner, wash and degrease them again.

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Fig. 9: Screw the insert onto the inst aller tool until the tang engages the slot.
Thread the insert into the hole until it is 1/4-1/2 turn below the top surface, then
remove the tool and break off the tang using a punch
Several methods of repairi ng damaged threads are availa ble. Heli-Coil® (shown
here), Keenserts® and Microdot® are among the most widely used. All involve
basically the same principl e - drilling out stripped thread s, tapping the hole and
installing a prewound insert - making we lding, plugging and oversize fasteners
unnecessary.
Two types of thread repair inserts are us ually supplied: a standard type for most
inch coarse, inch fine, metric course and metric fine thread sizes and a spark
lug type to fit most spark plug port si zes. Consult the individual tool
manufacturer's catalog to determine exac t applications. Typical thread repair
kits will contain a selection of prewoun d threaded inserts, a tap (corresponding
to the outside diameter thr eads of the insert) and an installation tool. Spark plug
inserts usually differ because they requi re a tap equipped with pilot threads and
a combined reamer/tap section. Most ma nufacturers also supply blister-packed
thread repair inserts separately in addition to a master kit containing a variety of
taps and inserts plus installation tools.

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Before attempting to repair a threaded
hole, remove any snapped, broken or
damaged bolts or studs. Penetrating oil ca n be used to free frozen threads. The
offending item can usually be removed with locking pliers or using a screw/stud
extractor. After the hole is clear, the thread can be repaired, as shown in the
series of accompanying illustrations and in the kit manufacturer's instructions.
ENGINE PREPARATION
To properly rebuild an engine, you must fi rst remove it from the vehicle, then
disassemble and diagnose it. Ideally you should place your engine on an engine
stand. This affords you the best access to the engine components. Follow the
manufacturer's directions for using the stand with your particular engine.
Remove the flywheel or fl explate before installing the engine to the stand.
Now that you have the engine on a stand, and assuming that you have drained
the oil and coolant from the engine, it's ti me to strip it of all but the necessary
components. Before you start disassembli ng the engine, you may want to take
a moment to draw some pictures, or fabr icate some labels or containers to mark
the locations of various components and the bolts and/or studs which fasten
them. Modern day engines use a lot of littl e brackets and clips which hold wiring
harnesses and such, and these holders are often mounted on studs and/or bolts
that can be easily mixed up. The manufacturer spent a lot of time and money
designing your vehicle, and they wouldn't have wasted any of it by haphazardly
placing brackets, clips or fasteners on t he vehicle. If it's present when you
disassemble it, put it back when you asse mble, you will regret not remembering
that little bracket which holds a wire har ness out of the path of a rotating part.
You should begin by unbolting any accessories still attached to the engine, such
as the water pump, power steering pump, alternator, etc. Then, unfasten any
manifolds (intake or exhaust) which were not removed during the engine
removal procedure. Finally, remove any covers remaining on the engine such
as the rocker arm, front or timing cove r and oil pan. Some front covers may
require the vibration dam per and/or crank pulley to be removed beforehand.
The idea is to reduce the engine to the bar e necessities (cylinder head(s), valve
train, engine block, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods), plus any other 'in
block' components such as oil pumps, balance shafts and auxiliary shafts.
Finally, remove the cylinder head(s) from the engine block and carefully place
on a bench. Disassembly instructions fo r each component follow later in this
section.
CYLINDER HEAD
There are two basic types of cylinder heads used on today’s automobiles:
the Overhead Valve (OHV) and the Over head Camshaft (OHC). The latter can
also be broken down into two subgr oups: the Single Overhead Camshaft
(SOHC) and the Dual Overhead Camshaft (DO HC). Generally, if there is only a
single camshaft on a head, it is just referred to as an OHC head. Also, an
engine with a OHV cylinder head is also known as a pushrod engine.

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There is no repair or refinishing possi
ble with the springs, retainers and valve
locks. If they are found to be worn or defective, they must be replaced with new
(or known good) parts.
CYLINDER HEAD
Most refinishing procedures dealing wit h the cylinder head must be performed
by a machine shop. Read the informati on below and review your inspection
data to determine whether or not machining is necessary.
VALVE GUIDE
If any machining or replacements are made to the valve guides, the seats must
be machined.
Unless the valve guides need machining or replacing, the only service to\

perform is to thoroughly clean them of any dirt or oil residue.
There are only two types of valve gu ides used on automobile engines: the
replaceable-type (all alumi num heads) and the cast-in in tegral-type (most cast
iron heads). There are four recommended methods for repairing worn guides.
• Knurling
• Inserts
• Reaming oversize
• Replacing
Knurling is a process in which metal is displaced and raised, thereby reducing
clearance, giving a true center, and providing oil control. It is the least
expensive way of repairing the valve guides . However, it is not necessarily the
best, and in some cases, a knurled valve guide will not stand up for more than a
short time. It requires a special knurle r and precision reaming tools to obtain
proper clearances. It would not be cost effective to purchase these tools, unless
you plan on rebuilding several of the same cylinder head.
Installing a guide insert involves machin ing the guide to accept a bronze insert.
One style is the coil-type wh ich is installed into a threaded guide. Another is the
thin-walled insert where the guide is ream ed oversize to accept a split-sleeve
insert. After the insert is installed, a s pecial tool is then run through the guide to
expand the insert, locking it to the guide. The insert is then reamed to the
standard size for proper valve clearance.
Reaming for oversize valves restores normal clearances and provides a true
valve seat. Most cast-in type guides can be reamed to accept an valve wi\
th an
oversize stem. The cost factor for this can become quite high as you will need
to purchase the reamer and new, oversize stem valves for all guides which
were reamed. Oversizes ar e generally 0.003 to 0.030 in. (0.076 to 0.762mm),
with 0.015 in. (0.381mm) being the most common.

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The first step for any assembly job is
to have a clean area in which to work.
Next, thoroughly clean all of the parts and components that are to be
assembled. Finally, place all of the co mponents onto a suitable work space and,
if necessary, arrange the parts to their respective positions.
1. Lightly lubricate the valve stems and insert all of the valves into the
cylinder head. If possible, maintain their original locations.
2. If equipped, install any valve spring shims which were removed.
3. If equipped, install the new valve seal s, keeping the following in mind:
• If the valve seal presses over the guide, lightly lubricate the outer
guide surfaces.
• If the seal is an O-ring type, it is installed just after compressing
the spring but before the valve locks.
4. Place the valve spring and retainer over the stem.
5. Position the spring compressor tool and compress the spring.
6. Assemble the valv e locks to the stem.
7. Relieve the spring pressure slowly and insure that neither valve lock
becomes dislodged by the retainer.
8. Remove the spring compressor tool.
9. Repeat Steps 2 through 8 until all of the springs have been installed.
ENGINE BLOCK
GENERAL INFORMATION
A thorough overhaul or rebuild of an engine block would include replacing the
pistons, rings, bearings, timing belt/chai n assembly and oil pump. For OHV
engines also include a new camshaft and lifters. The block would then have the
cylinders bored and honed oversize (or if using removable cylinder sleeves,
new sleeves installed) and the cranksha ft would be cut undersize to provide
new wearing surfaces and per fect clearances. However, your particular engine
may not have everything worn out. What if only the piston rings have worn out
and the clearances on everything else are still within factory specifications?
Well, you could just replace the rings and put it back together, but this would be
a very rare example. Chances are, if one component in your engine is worn,
other components are sure to follow, and soon. At the very least, you should
always replace the rings, bearings and oil pump. This is what is commonly
called a "freshen up".
CYLINDER RIDGE REMOVAL
Because the top piston ring does not travel to the very top of the cylinder, a
ridge is built up between the end of the trav el and the top of the cylinder bore.
Pushing the piston and connecting rod assembly past the ridge can be difficult,
and damage to the piston ring lands could occur. If the ridge is not removed
before installing a new piston or not re moved at all, piston ring breakage and
piston damage may occur.

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It is always recommended that you remo
ve any cylinder ridges before removing
the piston and connecting rod assemblies . If you know that new pistons are
going to be installed and the engine bl ock will be bored oversize, you may be
able to forego this step. However, some ridges may actually prevent the
assemblies from being remove d, necessitating its removal.
There are several different types of ridge reamers on the market, none of which
are inexpensive. Unless a great deal of engine rebuild ing is anticipated, borrow
or rent a reamer.
1. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at the bottom of its travel.
2. Cover the head of the piston with a rag.
3. Follow the tool manufacturers in structions and cut away the ridge,
exercising extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.
4. Remove the ridge reamer, the r ag and as many of the cuttings as
possible. Continue until all of the cylinder ridges have been removed.
DISASSEMBLY
The engine disassembly instructions fo llowing assume that you have the engine
mounted on an engine stand. If not, it is easiest to disassemble the engine on a
bench or the floor with it resting on t he bellhousing or transmission mounting
surface. You must be able to access the connecting rod fasteners and turn the
crankshaft during disassembly. Also, all en gine covers (timing, front, side, oil
pan, whatever) should have already been removed. Engines which are seized
or locked up may not be able to be co mpletely disassembled, and a core
(salvage yard) engine should be purchased.
If not done during the cylinder head removal, remove the pushrods and li\
fters,
keeping them in order for assembly. Remove the timing gears and/or timing
chain assembly, then remove the oil pu mp drive assembly and withdraw the
camshaft from the engine block. Remove the oil pick-up and pump assembly. If
equipped, remove any balanc e or auxiliary shafts. If necessary, remove the
cylinder ridge from the top of the bore. See the cylinder ridge removal
procedure earlier in this section.
Rotate the engine over so that the cr ankshaft is exposed. Use a number punch
or scribe and mark each connecting rod wit h its respective cylinder number. The
cylinder closest to the front of t he engine is always number 1. However,
depending on the engine placemen t, the front of the engine could either be the
flywheel or damper/pulley end. Generally the front of the engine faces the front
of the vehicle. Use a number punch or scribe and also mark the main bearing
caps from front to rear wit h the front most cap being nu mber 1 (if there are five
caps, mark them 1 through 5, front to rear).

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within specifications, install new bear
ings in the rod and take another
measurement. If the clearance is still out of specifications, and the crankshaft is
not, the rod will need to be reconditioned by a machine shop.
You can also use Plastigage to check the bearing clearances. The assembling
section has complete instructions on its use.
CAMSHAFT
Inspect the camshaft and lifters/followers as described earlier in this section.
BEARINGS
All of the engine bearings should be visua lly inspected for wear and/or damage.
The bearing should look evenly worn a ll around with no deep scores or pits. If
the bearing is severely worn, scored, pi tted or heat blued, then the bearing, and
the components that use it, should be brought to a machine shop for inspection.
Full-circle bearings (used on most camshafts, auxiliary shafts, balance shafts,
etc.) require specialized tools for re moval and installation, and should be
brought to a machine shop for service.
OIL PUMP
The oil pump is responsible for provid ing constant lubrication to the whole
engine and so it is re commended that a new oil pump be installed when
rebuilding the engine.
Completely disassemble the oil pump and thoroughly clean all of the
components. Inspect the oil pump gears and housing for wear and/or damage.
Insure that the pressure relief valve oper ates properly and there is no binding or
sticking due to varnish or debris. If all of the parts are in proper working
condition, lubricate the gears and relie f valve, and assemble the pump.
REFINISHING
Almost all engine block refinishing must be performed by a machine shop. If the
cylinders are not to be rebored, then t he cylinder glaze can be removed with a
ball hone. When removing cylinder glaz e with a ball hone, use a light or
penetrating type oil to lubricate the hone. Do not allow the hone to run dry as
this may cause excessive scoring of t he cylinder bores and wear on the hone. If
new pistons are required, t hey will need to be installed to the connecting rods.
This should be performed by a machine shop as the pistons must be installed in
the correct relationship to the rod or engine damage can occur.

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ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP

TUNE-UP PROCEDURES
In order to extract the full measure of performance and economy from your
engine it is essential that it is properly tuned at regul ar intervals. A regular tune-
up will keep your Camaro's engine running smoothly and will prevent the
annoying breakdowns and poor perform ance associated with an untuned
engine.
A complete tune-up should be performed every 30,000 miles (48,000 km). This
interval should be halved if the car is operated under severe conditions such as
trailer towing, prolonged idling, start-and- stop driving, or if starting or running
problems are noticed. It is assumed that the routine maintenance described in
General Information & Maintenance has been kept up, as this will have a
decided effect on the result s of a tune-up. All of the applicable steps of a tune-
up should be followed in order, as the result is a cumulative one.
If the specifications on the underhoo d tune-up sticker in the engine
compartment of your car disagree with th e "Tune-Up Specifications" chart in this
Section, the figures on the sticker must be used. The sticker often reflects
changes made during t he production run.
SPARK PLUGS
A typical spark plug consists of a metal shell surrounding a ceramic insulator. A
metal electrode extends downward through the center of the insulator and
protrudes a small distance. Located at the end of the plug and attached to the
side of the outer metal shell is the side el ectrode. The side electrode bends in at
a 90 angle so that its tip is just pas t and parallel to the tip of the center
electrode. The distance between these two electrodes (measured in
thousandths of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter) is called the spark plug
gap.
The spark plug does not pr oduce a spark, but instead provides a gap across
which the current can arc. The coil produces anywhere from 20,000 to 50,000
volts (depending on the type and application) which travels through the wires to
the spark plugs. The current passes along the center electrode and jumps the
gap to the side electrode, and in doing so, ignites the air/fuel mixture in the
combustion chamber.