transmission CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 318

Fig. 1: Torque arm removal


Fig. 2: Flywheel cover removal
4. Remove the transmission oil dipsti ck. Unbolt and remove the dipstick
tube.
5. Raise the vehicle and support it safely with jackstands.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 319
In order to provide adequat
e clearance for transmission removal, it may be
necessary to raise both the front and the rear of the vehicle.
6. Mark the relationship between the driveshaft and the rear pinion flange
so that the driveshaft may be reinst alled in its original position.

Fig. 3: Converter-to-flywheel bolts

Fig. 4: Transmission mounts - 5.0L & 5.7L engine vehicles

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7. Unbolt the universal joint straps fr
om the pinion flange (use care to keep
the universal joint caps in place), lower and remove the driveshaft from
the vehicle. Place a transmission tailshaft plug or rag in place of the \
driveshaft to keep the transmission fluid from draining out.
8. Disconnect the catalytic converter support bracket at the transmission.
9. Disconnect the speedometer cable, electrical connectors and the shift
control cable from the transmission.
CAUTION - During the next step, rear spring force will cause the torque arm to
move toward the floor pan. When disconn ecting the arm from the transmission,
carefully place a piece of wood between the floor pan and the torque arm. This
will prevent possible personal injury and/or floor pan damage


Fig. 5: Transmission-to-engine bolts

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 321

Fig. 6: Transmission mounts for vehi cles equipped with the 3.1L engine
10. Remove the torque arm-to-transmission bolts.
11. Remove the flywheel cover, t hen mark the relationship between the
torque converter and the flywheel so that these parts may be
reassembled in the same relationship.
12. Remove the torque converter-t o-flywheel attaching bolts.
13. Support the transmission with a ja ck, then remove the transmission
mount bolt.
14. Unbolt and remove the transmission crossmember.
15. Lower the transmission slightly. Disco nnect the throttle valve cable and
oil cooler lines from the transmission.
16. Support the engine using GM specia l tool BT-6424 or its equivalent.
Remove the transmission- to-engine mounting bolts.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 322

CAUTION - The transmission must be secu red to the transmission jack
17. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. Be careful not to damage the oil cooler lines, throttle valve cable, or the shift control cable. Also, keep
the rear of the transmissi on lower than the front to avoid the possibility of
the torque converter disengagi ng from the transmission.
To install: 18. Position the transmission and converter into place.
19. Install the transmission -to-engine mounting bolts.
20. Connect the throttle valve cable and oil cooler lines to the transmissio\
n.
21. Install the transmission cro ssmember and secure with bolts.
22. Install the transmission mount bolt.
23. Matchmark the torque converter-to-f lywheel. Install the torque converter-
to-flywheel attaching bolts.
Before installing the converter-to-flywheel bolts, be sure that the weld nuts on
the converter are flush with the flywheel, and that the converter rotates freely by
hand in this position.
24. Install the flywheel cover.
25. Install the torque arm-to-transmission bolts.
26. Connect the speedometer cable, el ectrical connectors and the shift
control cable from the transmission.
27. Connect the catalytic converter s upport bracket at the transmission.
28. Align the matchmark m ade earlier, then install the driveshaft to the axle
pinion. Bolt the universal joint straps to the pinion flange.
29. Lower the vehicle.
30. Install the dipstick tube using a ne w dipstick tube O-ring and secure with
the bolt. Install the tran smission oil dipstick.
31. Connect the throttle valve (TV) c ontrol cable at the carburetor.
32. Install the air cleaner assembly.
33. Connect the negative battery cable at the battery.
DRIVELINE

DRIVESHAFT AND U-JOINTS
The U-joint is secured to the yoke in one of two ways. Dana and Cleveland
shafts use a conventional snapring to ho ld each bearing cup in the yoke. The
snapring fits into a groove located in eac h yoke end just on top of each bearing
cup. The Saginaw design shaft secures its U-joints in another way. Nylon
material is injected through a small hole in the yoke and flows along a circular
groove between the U-joint and the yoke , creating a synthetic snapring.
Disassembly of the Saginaw U-joint requi res the joint to be pressed from the
yoke. This results in damage to the be aring cups and destruction of the nylon
rings.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 323
Replacement kits include new bearing
cups and conventional snaprings to
replace the original nylon rings. These replacement rings must go inboard of the
yoke in contrast to outboard mounting of the Dana and Cleveland designs.
Previous service to the Saginaw U-joints can be recognized by the presence of
snaprings inboard of the yoke.
Bad U-joints, requiring replacement, will produce a clunking sound when the car
is put into gear. This is due to worn needle bearings or a scored trunnion end
possibly caused by improper lubricati on during assembly. Camaro U-joints
require no periodic maintenance and theref ore have no lubrication fittings.
DRIVESHAFT
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Raise the vehicle and safely su pport it on jackstands. Paint a reference
line from the rear end of the drives haft to the companion flange so that
they can be reassembled in the same position.
2. Disconnect the rear universal join t by removing the U-bolts, retaining
straps, or the flange bolts.
3. To prevent loss of the needle bear ings, tape the bearing caps to the
trunnion.

Fig. 1: Driveshaft
4. Remove the driveshaft from the tr ansmission by sliding it rearward.
Do not be alarmed by oil l eakage at the transmission output shaft. This oil is
there to lubricate the sp lines of the front yoke.
To install: 5. Check the yoke seal in the transmi ssion case extension and replace it if
necessary. See the transmission sect ion for replacement procedures.
6. Position the driveshaft and insert t he front yoke into the transmission so
the splines mesh with the transmission shaft splines.
7. Using reference marks made during re moval, align the driveshaft with the
companion flange and secure it with U-bolts or, retaining straps.
U-JOINT REPLACEMENT 1. Support the driveshaft horizontally in line with the base plate of a press.

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REAR AXLE

IDENTIFICATION
The rear axle code and the
manufacturers code, plus the date built, is stamped
on the forward side of the right axle tube. Any reports made on the rear axle
assemblies must include the full code le tters and the date built numbers. The
Limited-slip differentials are identified by a tag attached to the lower right
section of the axle.

Fig. 1: Rear axle ID code
DETERMINING AXLE RATIO
An axle ratio is obtained by dividing the number of teeth on the drive pinion gear
into the number of teeth on the ring gear. For instance, on a 4.11 ratio, the
driveshaft will turn 4.11 times for every turn of the rear wheel.
The most accurate way to determine the ax le ratio is to drain the differential,
remove the cover, and count the num ber of teeth on the ring and pinion.
An easier method is to jack and support th e car so that both rear wheels are off
the ground. Make a chalk mark on the r ear wheel and the driveshaft. Block the
front wheels and put the transmission in Neutral. Turn the rear wheel one
complete revolution and count the number of turns made by the driveshaft. The
number of driveshaft rotations is the ax le ratio. More accuracy can be obtained
by going more than one tire revolution and dividing the result by the number of
tire rotations.
The axle ratio is also identified by the ax le serial number prefix on the axle; the
axle ratios are listed in dealer's parts books according to prefix number. Some
axles have a tag on the cover.
AXLE SHAFT, BEARING AND SEAL
Axle shafts are the last link in the chain of components working to transmit
engine power to the rear wheels. The sp lined end of each shaft meshes with the

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operation is required of it. Thus, little a
llowance for air circulation is required,
and the windings can be built into a very small space.
The starter solenoid is a magnetic dev ice which employs the small current
supplied by the starting switch circuit of the ignition switch. This magnetic action
moves a plunger which mechanically engages the starter and electrically closes
the heavy switch which connects it to t he battery. The starting switch circuit
consists of the starting switch cont ained within the ignition switch, a
transmission neutral safety switch or clutch pedal switch, and the wiring
necessary to connect these with the starter solenoid or relay.
A pinion, which is a small gear, is m ounted to a one-way drive clutch. This
clutch is splined to the starter armature shaft. When the ignition switch is moved
to the start position, the solenoid plunger slides the pinion toward the flywheel
ring gear via a collar and spring. If t he teeth on the pinion and flywheel match
properly, the pinion will engage the flywheel immediately. If the gear teeth butt
one another, the spring will be compressed and will force the gears to mesh as
soon as the starter turns far enough to a llow them to do so. As the solenoid
plunger reaches the end of it s travel, it closes the contacts that connect the
battery and starter and then the engine is cranked.
As soon as the engine star ts, the flywheel ring gear begins turning fast enough
to drive the pinion at an ex tremely high rate of speed. At this point, the one-way
clutch begins allowing the pi nion to spin faster than the starter shaft so that the
starter will not operate at excessive speed. When the i gnition switch is released
from the starter position, the solenoid is de-energized, and a spring contained
within the solenoid assembly pulls the gear out of mesh and interrupts the
current flow to the starter.
Some starters employ a separate relay, mounted away from the starter, to
switch the motor and solenoid current on and off. The relay thus replaces the
solenoid electrical switch, but does not eliminate the need for a solenoid
mounted on the starter used to mechanica lly engage the starter drive gears.
The relay is used to reduce the amount of current the starting switch must carry.
THE CHARGING SYSTEM
The automobile charging system provides electrical power for operation of the
vehicle's ignition and star ting systems and all the electrical accessories. The
battery serves as an electrical surge or storage tank, storing (in chemical form)
the energy originally pr oduced by the engine driven gen erator. The system also
provides a means of regulating alternat or output to protect the battery from
being overcharged and to avoid excess ive voltage to the accessories.
The storage battery is a chemical device in corporating parallel lead plates in a
tank containing a sulfuric acid-water solution. Adjacent plates are slightly
dissimilar, and the chemical reaction of the two dissimilar plates produces
electrical energy when the battery is connected to a load such as the starter
motor. The chemical reaction is reversible, so that when the generator i\
s
producing a voltage (electrical pressure ) greater than that produced by the

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OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT
Replace the sending unit by disconnecting
the electrical connector and using a
special socket to remove it.
ENGINE

MECHANICAL ENGINE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
In the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps
which call for the removal of a separ ate component or system, such as
"disconnect the exhaust system " or "remove the radiator." In most instances, a
detailed removal procedure can be found elsewhere in this repair guide.
It is virtually impossible to list each individual wire and hose which must be
disconnected, simply because so many different model and engine
combinations have been manufactured. Careful observation and common
sense are the best possible approaches to any repair procedure.
Removal and installation of the engine ca n be made easier if you follow these
basic points:
• If you have to drain any of the fl uids, use a suitable container.
• Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they
came from before disconnecting them.
• Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label
the retainers from com ponents separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee
cans. This will prevent conf usion during installation.
• After unbolting the transmission or trans axle, always make sure it is
properly supported.
• If it is necessary to disconnect t he air conditioning system, have this
service performed by a qualified tec hnician using a recovery/recycling
station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the
compressor and set it aside.
• When unbolting the engine mounts, a lways make sure the engine is
properly supported. When removing t he engine, make sure that any
lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. It is recommended
that if your engine is supplied with lifting hooks, your lifting apparatus be
attached to them.
• Lift the engine from its compartment sl owly, checking that no hoses,
wires or other component s are still connected.
• After the engine is clear of the compar tment, place it on an engine stand
or workbench.
• After the engine has been removed, y ou can perform a partial or full
teardown of the engine using the procedur es outlined in this repair guide.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 364
5. Drain the radiator and remove t
he radiator hoses. Disconnect the heater
hoses and the transmission cooler lines.
6. Remove the upper half of the radi ator shroud, if equipped with a manual
transmission. Remove the radiator and fan shroud assembly, if equipped
with an automatic transmission.
7. Disconnect the throttle linkage, includi ng the cruise control detent cable.
8. Remove the air conditioning compressor and lay aside.
Do not disconnect the air conditioning lines.
9. Disconnect the power steering pump and drain the fluid into a suitable
container. Remove the vacuum brake booster line.
10. Remove the distributor cap and spark plug wires.
11. Disconnect the engine electrical connection at the bulkhead connection
and disconnect any necessary vacuum hoses.
12. Working inside the vehicle, re move the right-hand hush panel and
disconnect the ECM harness at the EC M. Raise and safely support the
vehicle. Remove the right fenderwell splash shield and feed the harness
through the fenderwell.
13. Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the exhaust manifolds and remove
exhaust system from the vehicle.
14. Remove the flywheel cover and remo ve the converter bolts, if equipped
with automatic transmission.
15. Disconnect the transmission an d starter wire connections.
16. Remove the bellhousing and t he motor mount through-bolts.
17. Disconnect the clutch fork return spring, if equipped with a manual
transmission. Lower the vehicle.
18. Relieve the fuel system pressu re. Disconnect the fuel lines.
19. Support the transmission with a suit able jack. Attach an engine lifting
device.
20. Remove the engine assembly.
To install: 21. Position the engine assembly in the vehicle.
22. Attach the motor mount to engine br ackets and lower the engine in place.
Remove the engine lifting device and the transmission jack.
23. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
24. Install the motor mount through-bolts and tighten the nuts to specification. Install t he bellhousing bolts and tight en to 35 ft. lbs. (47
Nm).
25. On vehicles with automatic transmissi on, install the converter to flywheel
attaching bolts to 46 ft. lbs. (63 Nm).
26. Install the flywheel splash shield and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Install the clutch return spring, if equipped with manual transmission.
27. Connect the starter wires and the fuel lines.
28. Install the exhaust system.
29. Lower the vehicle.
30. Install the power steering pump and the air conditioning compressor.