check engine CHEVROLET DYNASTY 1993 User Guide

CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
The clutch pedal position switch functions as a
safety interlock device. It prevents possible engine
cranking with the clutch engaged. The clutch pedal position switch is wired in series
between the starter relay coil and the ignition
switch. The clutch pedal position switch is mounted to a
bracket located next to the clutch pedal. The switch
is held in place by four plastic wing tabs. The clutch pedal position switch has an adjustable
striker plate. The striker plate is located on the left
side of the clutch pedal (Fig. 3).
DIAGNOSIS
Disconnect clutch pedal position switch harness
from instrument panel wiring harness. Using a ohm
meter, check for continuity between the two termi-
nals in the connector on the switch harness. There
should be no continuity between the terminals when
the switch is in its neutral (fully extended) position.
When the switch is depressed more than 1.25 mm
(0.050) the ohm meter should show continuity. If all ohm meter readings are correct and the
switch does not operate correctly, adjustment is re-
quired. Refer to Switch Adjustment Procedure to ad-
just switch.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect electrical harness to switch connec-
tor. (2) Depress wing tabs on switch and push switch out
of mounting bracket. Then slide wires through slot in
bracket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide switch wires through slot in switch bracket.
(2) Line up switch tab with slot in switch bracket
and push switch into position. Do not pull on the switch
wires to seat switch into bracket, switch damage may
occur. (3) After installation, the switch must be adjusted
and checked for proper operation. Refer to Switch
Adjustment Procedure.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
When performing switch adjustment, the floor mat
should be removed before beginning adjustment proce-
dures. (1) Set the park brake.
(2) Disconnect clutch cable at the transaxle end of
the cable. (3) Depress clutch pedal, loosen adjusting nut and
slide the striker plate forward to fully compress the
clutch pedal position switch plunger. (4) Tighten adjusting nut to 12 N Im (105 in. lbs.).
(5) Reconnect clutch cable.
The clutch pedal position switch is now ad-
justed. A final check is required to insure that the
switch is ``made'' below the clutch release point. (1) With the park brake set and the vehicle IN
NEUTRAL turn the key to the start position. The
vehicle should not crank. If the vehicle cranks do
not continue with this test. Recheck the switch and
switch adjustment to determine the cause. If the ve-
hicle does not crank proceed to step 2. (2) With the park brake set and the vehicle IN
GEAR turn the key to the start position.
WARNING: BEFORE PERFORMING STEP THREE BE
SURE THAT THE AREA IN FRONT OF THE VEHICLE
IS CLEAR OF OBSTRUCTIONS AND PEOPLE. VE-
HICLE MAY MOVE WHEN PERFORMING THIS TEST.
(3) Slowly depress the clutch pedal and feel for any
vehicle motion when the starter is energized. If there is
no motion the switch is properly adjusted. If motion is
felt, repeat the adjustment procedure.
Fig. 3 Clutch Pedal Position Switch and Components
6 - 4 MANUAL TRANSAXLE CLUTCH Ä

(3) Clean the flywheel face with medium sandpa-
per (80-160 grade), then wipe the surface with min-
eral spirits. If the surface is severely scored, heat
checked, or warped, replace the flywheel.
CAUTION: Do not flat-machine the flywheel face.
The surface profile is tapered.
(4) The heavy side of the flywheel is indicated by a
daub of white paint near the outside diameter. To
minimize the effects of flywheel unbalance, perform
the following installation procedure: (a) Loose assemble the flywheel to the crank-
shaft. Use new flywheel attaching bolts which have
sealant on the threads. If new bolts are not avail-
able, apply Loctite sealant to the threads of the
original bolts. This sealant is required to prevent
engine oil leakage. (b) Rotate the flywheel and crankshaft until the
daub of white paint (heavy side) is at the 12 o'clock
position. (c) Torque flywheel attaching bolts to 95 N Im(70
ft. lbs.). Use a crisscross pattern when tightening
bolts.
(5) The disc assembly should be handled without
touching the facings. Replace disc if the facings show
evidence of grease or oil soakage, or wear to within
less than .38 mm (.015 inch) of the rivet heads. The
splines on the disc hub and transaxle input shaft
should be a snug fit without signs of excessive wear.
Metallic portions of disc assembly should be dry and
clean, and not been discolored from excessive heat.
Each of the arched springs between the facings
should not be broken and all rivets should be tight. (6) Wipe the friction surface of the pressure plate
with mineral spirits. (7) Using a straight edge, check clutch cover (pres-
sure plate) for flatness. The clutch cover (pressure
plate) friction area should be slightly concave, with
the inner diameter 0.02 mm to 0.1 mm (.0008 in. to
.0039 in.) below the outer diameter. It should also be
free from discoloration, burned areas, cracks,
grooves, or ridges. (8) Using a surface plate, test cover for flatness.
All sections around attaching bolt holes should be in
contact with surface plate within .015 inch. (9) The cover should be a snug fit on flywheel dow-
els. If the clutch assembly does not meet these re-
quirements, it should be replaced.
INSTALLATION
(1) Mount clutch assembly on flywheel,being care-
ful to properly align dowels and the alignment marks
made before removal. The flywheel side of the clutch
disc is marked for proper installation. If new clutch
or flywheel is installed, align cover balance spot as
close as possible to flywheel balance orange spot. Ap-
ply pressure to the alignment tool. Center the tip of the tool into the crankshaft and the sliding cone into
the clutch fingers. Tighten the clutch attaching bolts
sufficiently to hold the disc in position. (2) To avoid distortion of the clutch cover, bolts
should be tightened a few turns at a time, in a criss-
cross pattern, until they are all seated. Tighten bolts
to 28 N Im (250 in. lbs.) following a crisscross pattern
sequence. Remove clutch disc alignment tool. (3) Install transaxle. See group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle, for procedures.
RELEASE BEARING AND FORK
Remove the transaxle from the vehicle. See group
21 for removal and installation procedures.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
(1) Remove clutch release shaft E-clip.
(2) Remove the clutch release shaft and then slide
the fork and bearing assembly off the bearing pilot. (3) Remove the fork from the bearing thrust plate.
(4) Examine the condition of the bearing. It is pre-
lubricated and sealed and should not be im-
mersed in oil or solvent. (5) The bearing should turn smoothly when held in
the hand under a light thrust load. A light drag
caused by the lubricant fill is normal. If the bearing
is noisy, rough, or dry, replace the complete bearing
assembly with a new bearing. (6) The bearing has a plastic sleeve pre-lubricated
at assembly. Wipe out the old grease. Refill the
sleeve cavities and coat the inner surface with mul-
tipurpose grease. If the liner is cracked or worn, re-
place the bearing assembly. (7) Check the condition of the spring clips. If the
clips are broken or distorted, replace the bearing as-
sembly. (8) Before assembling the fork, lubricate the
rounded thrust pads and the spring clip cavities with
multipurpose grease. (9) Assemble the fork to the bearing by sliding the
thrust pads under the spring clips. Be careful to
avoid distorting the spring clips. These clips prevent
the bearing thrust plate from rotating with the bear-
ing. (10) Slide the bearing and fork assembly onto the
input shaft bearing retainer. (11) Position the release shaft bushings in the
housing and install the release shaft. A small
amount of bearing grease between the release shaft
bushing and the shaft is beneficial but not required.
Install the retainer clip in the shaft groove near the
large bushing. (12) Install the release lever and retaining clip on
the outer end of the release shaft.
CLEANING PRECAUTIONS
Condensation from steam vapors tend to accumu-
late on the internal clutch mechanism when the ve-
6 - 6 MANUAL TRANSAXLE CLUTCH Ä

INSPECTION Replace water pump body assembly if it has any of
these defects: (1) Cracks or damage on the body.
(2) Water leaks from the shaft seal, evident by
coolant traces below the vent hole. (3) Loose or rough turning bearing.
(4) Impeller rubs either the pump body or the hous-
ing.
ASSEMBLY
Body assembly and housing are serviced as separate
components. (1) Install new O-ring gasket in body O-ring groove.
(2) Assemble pump body to housing and tighten nine
screws to 12 N Im (105 in. lbs.) (Fig. 2).
(3) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of
movement. (4) Position water pump pulley to water pump.In-
stall three screws and tighten to 30 N Im (250 in. lbs.).
(5) Position new O-ring in housing to block O-ring
groove.
INSTALLATION (1) On Turbo III engines install the coolant deflector
into the block before installing pump on engine (Fig. 3).
Install spacer between the pump and block for
Turbo III only before tightening pump to speci-
fications. Tighten three top screws (Fig. 1) to 28 N Im
(250 in. lbs.) and lower screw to 68 N Im (50 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install bypass/heater hose and lower radiator
hose. (3) Install generator and air conditioning compres-
sor bracket(s). For solid mount bracket see standard
service procedures in Group 9 Engine. (4) Install generator and air conditioning compres-
sor. (5) Refill cooling system. See
Refilling Cooling
System. (6) Install drive belt, See Accessory Drive Belts,
this Group.
WATER PUMPÐ3.0L ENGINE
The 3.0L pump bolts directly to the engine block,
using a gasket for pump to block sealing (Fig. 4). The
pump is serviced as a unit. The water pump is driven by the timing belt. See
Timing System in Group 9, Engine for component re-
moval providing access to water pump.
REMOVAL (1) Drain cooling system. Refer to Draining Cool-
ing System in this group. (2) Remove mounting bolts.
(3) Separate pump from water inlet pipe (Figs. 4
and 5) and remove.
INSPECTION Replace the water pump if it has any of the follow-
ing defects.
Fig. 4 Water PumpÐ3.0L Engine
Fig. 5 Water Pump Inspection
Fig. 3 Coolant DeflectorÐTurbo III
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 11

(1) Damage or cracks on the pump body.
(2) Coolant leaks, if the shaft seal is leaking, evi-
dent by traces of coolant leaks from vent hole A in
(Fig. 5). (3) Impeller rubs inside of pump.
(4) Excessively loose or rough turning bearing.
INSTALLATION (1) Clean all gasket and O-ring surfaces on pump
and water pipe inlet tube. (2) Install new O-ring on water inlet pipe (Fig. 6).
Wet the O-ring with water to facilitate assembly.
CAUTION: Keep the O-ring free of oil or grease.
(3) Install new gasket on water pump and install
pump inlet opening over water pipe, press assembly
to cause water pipe insertion into pump housing. (4) Install pump to block mounting bolts and
tighten to 27 N Im (20 ft. lbs.).
(5) See Timing System in Engine, Group 9 and in-
stall timing belt. Reassemble engine. (6) Fill cooling system. See Refilling Cooling Sys-
tem.
WATER PUMPÐ3.3L AND 3.8L ENGINES
The pump has a die cast aluminum body and a
stamped steel impeller. It bolts directly to the chain
case cover, using an O-ring for sealing. It is driven
by the back surface of the Poly-V Drive Belt.
REMOVAL (1) Drain Cooling System. Refer to Draining Cool-
ing System in this group. (2) Remove Poly V Drive Belt.
(3) Remove right front lower fender shield.
(4) Remove pump pulley bolts and remove pulley.
(5) Remove pump mounting screws (Fig. 7). Re-
move pump. (6) Remove and discard O-ring seal. (7) Clean O-ring groove and O-ring surfaces on
pump and chain case cover. Take care not to scratch
or gouge sealing surface.
INSPECTION
Replace the water pump if it has any of the follow-
ing defects. (1) Damage or cracks on the pump body.
(2) Coolant leaks; if the seal is leaking, evident by
traces of coolant leaks from vent hole. (3) Loose or rough turning bearing.
(4) Impeller rubs either the pump body or chain-
case cover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new O-ring in O-ring groove (Fig. 8).
(2) Install pump to chain case cover. Torque screws
to 12 N Im (105 in. lbs.).
(3) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of
movement. (4) Position pulley on pump. Install screws and
torque to 30 N Im (250 in. lbs.).
Fig. 6 Water Pipe O-Ring
Fig. 7 Water PumpÐ3.3L and 3.8L Engines
Fig. 8 Water Pump Body
7 - 12 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

(5) Install drive belt. See Accessory Drive Belts
this group. (6) Install right front lower fender shield.
(7) Refill Cooling System. See Refilling Cooling
System in this section.
ENGINE THERMOSTATS
The 2.2 and 2.5L engine thermostats are located on
the front of the engine (radiator side) in the water
box which is part of the cylinder head construction
(Fig. 9). Turbo III thermostat is located in the water
box located on the driver side of the cylinder head
(Fig. 10). These thermostats do not have an air bleed notch.
The 3.0L engine thermostat is located in a water
box, formed in the timing belt end of the intake man-
ifold. This thermostat has an air bleed valve, located
in the thermostat flange (Fig. 11). The 3.3/3.8L engine thermostat is located in a wa-
ter box, formed in the drive belt side of the intake
manifold (Fig. 13).
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The engine cooling thermostats are wax pellet
driven, reverse poppet choke type. They are designed
to provide the fastest warm up possible by prevent-
ing leakage through them and to guarantee a mini-
mum engine operating temperature of 88 to 93ÉC
(192 to 199ÉF). They also automatically reach wide
open so they do not restrict flow to the radiator as
temperature of the coolant rises in hot weather to
around 104ÉC (220ÉF). Above this temperature the
coolant temperature is controlled by the radiator,
fan, and ambient temperature, not the thermostat.
OPERATION AND TESTING
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled con-
tainer (pellet) which is sealed so that when heated to
a predetermined temperature. The wax expands
enough to overcome the closing spring and water
pump pressure, which forces the valve to open. Cool-
ant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermostat to
fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermostat
with a screwdriver. The open too soon type failure mode is included in
the onboard diagnosis. The check engine light will
not be lit by an open too soon condition. If it has
failed open, code 17 will be set. Do not change a ther-
mostat for lack of heat by gauge or heater perfor-
mance, unless code 17 is present, see diagnosis for
other probable causes. Failing shut is the normal
long term mode of failure, and normally, only on
high mileage vehicles. The temperature gauge will
indicate this, Refer to diagnosis in this section.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system down to thermostat level
or below. (2) Remove thermostat housing bolts and housing
(Figs. 9, 10, 11 and 13). (3) Remove thermostat, discard gasket and clean
both gasket sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATIONÐ2.2/2.5L AND TURBO III ENGINES
Place a new gasket (dipped in clean water) on wa-
ter box surface, center thermostat in water box on
gasket. Place housing over gasket and thermostat,
making sure thermostat is in the thermostat hous-
ing. Bolt housing to water box (Figs. 9 and 10).
Tighten bolts to 28 N Im (250 in. lbs.). Refill cooling
system (see Refilling System ).
INSTALLATIONÐ3.0L ENGINE
Center thermostat in water box pocket. Check that
the flange is seated correctly in the countersunk por-
tion of the intake manifold water box (Figs. 11 and
12). Install new gasket on water box. Install housing
over gasket and thermostat and tighten bolts to 12
N Im (133 in. lbs. torque).
Fig. 9 Thermostat, Housing, and Water BoxÐ2.2/
2.5L Engine
Fig. 10 Thermostat, Housing, and Water BoxÐTurbo III
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 13

-37ÉC (-35ÉF) to -59ÉC (-50ÉF). If it looses color or
becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with
fresh properly mixed solution.
SERVICE
Coolant should be changed at 52,500 miles or three
years, whichever occurs first, then every two years or
30,000 miles.
ROUTINE LEVEL CHECK
Do not remove radiator cap for routine coolant
level inspections. The coolant reserve system provides a quick visual
method for determining the coolant level without re-
moving the radiator cap. Simply observe, with the
engine idling and warmed up to normal operating
temperature, that the level of the coolant in the reserve
tank (Figs. 5 and 6) is between the minimum and
maximum marks.
ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANT
The radiator cap should not be removed. When
additional coolant is needed to maintain this level, it
should be added to the coolant reserve tank. Use only
50/50 concentration of ethylene glycol type antifreeze
and water.
SERVICE COOLANT LEVEL
The cooling system is closed and designed to main-
tain coolant level to the top of the radiator. When servicing requires a coolant level check in the
radiator, the engine must be offand notunder pres-
sure. Drain several ounces of coolant from the radiator
drain cock while observing the Coolant Recovery Sys-
tem (CRS) Tank. Coolant level in the CRS tank should
drop slightly. Then remove the radiator cap. The radia-
tor should be full to the top. If not, and the coolant level
in the CRS tank is at the MIN mark there is a air leak
in the CRS system. Check hose or hose connections to
the CRS tank, radiator filler neck or the pressure cap
seal to the radiator filler neck for leaks.
LOW COOLANT LEVEL AERATION
Low coolant level in a cross flow radiator will equal-
ize in both tanks with engine off. With engine at
running operating temperature the high pressure inlet
tank runs full and the low pressure outlet tank drops.
If this level drops below the top of the transmission oil
cooler, air will be sucked into the water pump:
² Transmission oil will become hotter.
² High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
² Air in the coolant will also cause loss of flow through
the heater.
² Exhaust gas leaks into the coolant can also cause the
same problems.
DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gather-
ing under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it will
be pushed past the pressure cap into the CRS tank by
thermal expansion of the coolant. It then escapes to the
atmosphere in the CRS tank and is replaced with solid
coolant on cool down.
COOLING SYSTEM DRAIN, CLEAN, FLUSH AND
REFILL
Drain, flush, and fill the cooling system at the
mileage or time intervals specified in the Maintenance
Schedule in this Group. If the solution is dirty or rusty
or contains a considerable amount of sediment, clean
and flush with a reliable cooling system cleaner. Care
should be taken in disposing of the used engine coolant
from your vehicle. Check governmental regulations for
disposal of used engine coolant.
DRAINING
To drain cooling system move temperature selector
for heater to full heat with engine running (to provide
vacuum for actuation). Without removing radiator
pressure cap and with system not under pres-
sure, Shut engine off and open draincock. The coolant
reserve tank (Fig. 5) should empty first, then remove
radiator pressure cap. (if not, see Testing Cooling
System for leaks). To vent 2.2/2.5L engines remove the
plug above thermostat housing (Fig. 1). For Turbo III
engines remove coolant temperature sensor in the
thermostat housing (Fig. 2). For 3.3L /3.8L engine
remove the engine temperature sending unit (Fig. 3).
Removal of a plug or other component is required
because the thermostat has no air vent and prevents
air flow through it. This allows the coolant to drain
from the engine block.
Fig. 1 Thermostat Housing Drain/Fill PlugÐ2.2/2.5L Engines
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 15

TESTING SYSTEM FOR LEAKS
With engine not running, wipe the radiator filler
neck sealing seat clean. The radiator should be full. Attach a radiator pressure tester to the radiator, as
shown in (Fig. 4) and apply 104 kPa (15 psi) pres-
sure. If the pressure drops more than 2 psi in 2 min-
utes inspect all points for external leaks. All hoses, radiator and heater, should be moved
while at 15 psi since some leaks occur while driving
due to engine rock, etc.
If there are no external leaks after the gauge dial
shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester. Start en-
gine and run the engine to normal operating temper-
ature in order to open the thermostat and allow the
coolant to expand. Re-attach the tester. If the needle
on the dial fluctuates it indicates a combustion leak,
usually a head gasket leak.
WARNING: WITH TOOL IN PLACE PRESSURE
BUILDS UP FAST. ANY EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF
PRESSURE BUILT UP BY CONTINUOUS ENGINE
OPERATION MUST BE RELEASED TO A SAFE
PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRESSURE TO
EXCEED 138 KPA (20 PSI).
If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, race
the engine a few times. If an abnormal amount of
coolant or steam is emitted from the tail pipe, it may
indicate a faulty head gasket, cracked engine block
or cylinder head. There may be internal leaks which can be deter-
mined by removing the oil dip-stick. If water glob-
ules appear intermixed with the oil it will indicate a internal leak in the engine. If there is an internal
leak, the engine must be disassembled for repair.
COOLANT RECOVERY SYSTEM (CRS)
This system works in conjunction with the radiator
pressure cap to utilize thermal expansion and con-
traction of the coolant to keep the coolant free of
trapped air. It provides a volume for expansion and
contraction, provides a convenient and safe method
for checking coolant level and adjusting level at at-
mospheric pressure without removing the radiator
pressure cap. It also provides some reserve coolant to
cover minor leaks and evaporation or boiling losses.
All vehicles are equipped with this system (Figs. 5
and 6).
See Coolant Level Check Service, Deaeration and
Pressure Cap sections for operation and service. Ve-
hicles equipped with the electric monitor system use
a level sensor in the CRS tank, see Group 8E Elec-
trical for service.
Fig. 4 Pressure Testing Cooling System
Fig. 5 Coolant Recovery System Typical
Fig. 6 Coolant Recovery SystemÐAC-AY Models
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 17

RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
Radiators are equipped with a pressure cap which
releases pressure at some point within a range of
97-124 kPa (14-18 psi) (Fig. 7). The system will operate at higher than atmospheric
pressure which raises the coolant boiling point allow-
ing increased radiator cooling capacity. There is also a vent valve in the center of the cap that
allows a small coolant flow to the CRS tank. If valve is
stuck shut, the radiator hoses will be collapsed
on cool down. Clean the vent valve (Fig. 7) to
ensure proper sealing when boiling point is
reached.
There is also a gasket in the cap to seal to the top of
the filler neck so that vacuum can be maintained for
drawing coolant back into the radiator from the coolant
reserve system tank.
RADIATOR CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL PRES- SURE RELIEF CHECK
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure relief
can be checked by removing the overflow hose at the
radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 7). Attach the Radiator
Pressure Tool to the filler neck nipple and pump air
into the radiator. Pressure cap upper gasket should
relieve at 69-124 kPa (10-18 psi) and hold pressure at
55 kPa (8 psi) minimum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS DO NOT OPEN
HOT ON THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP IS A
SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, THE RADIATOR CAP
SHOULD NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM IS
HOT AND/OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the radiator cap at any
time except for the following purposes:
(1) Check and adjust antifreeze freeze point.
(2) Refill system with new antifreeze.
(3) Conducting service procedures.
(4) Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING CAP. THEN PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING DOWN ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS
TO ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE AND
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS PUSH DOWN AND REMOVE THE CAP COM-
PLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR INLET HOSE
WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK PRESSURE) BE-
FORE AND AFTER TURNING TO THE FIRST STOP IS
RECOMMENDED.
PRESSURE TESTING RADIATOR CAPS
Dip the pressure cap in water, clean any deposits off
the vent valve or its seat and apply cap to end of
Radiator Pressure Tool. Working the plunger, bring the
pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the
pressure cap fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa
(14 psi) replace cap. See CAUTION
If the pressure cap tests properly while positioned on
Radiator Pressure Tool, but will not hold pressure or
vacuum when positioned on the radiator. Inspect the
radiator filler neck and cap top gasket for irregularities
that may prevent the cap from sealing properly.
CAUTION: Radiator Pressure Tool is very sensitive to
small air leaks which will not cause cooling system
problems. A pressure cap that does not have a
history of coolant loss should not be replaced just
because it leaks slowly when tested with this tool.
Add water to the tool. Turn tool upside down and
recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap is bad.
INSPECTION
Hold the cap in hand, right side up(Fig. 7). The
vent valve at the bottom of the cap should open. If the
rubber gasket has swollen and prevents the valve from
opening, replace the cap. Hold the cleaned cap in hand upside down.If any
light can be seen between vent valve and rubber
gasket, replace cap. Do not use a replacement cap
that has a spring to hold the vent shut. Replacement cap must be of the type designed for
coolant reserve systems. This design assures coolant
return to radiator.
RADIATORS
The radiators are crossflow types (horizontal tubes)
with design features that provide greater strength as
well as sufficient heat transfer capabilities to keep the
engine satisfactorily cooled.
CAUTION: Plastic tanks, while stronger then brass
are subject to damage by impact, such as wrenches.
Fig. 7 Radiator Pressure Cap Filler Neck
7 - 18 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

RADIATOR DRAINCOCK SERVICE
REMOVAL (1) Turn the drain cock stem counterclockwise to
unscrew the stem. When the stem is unscrewed to
the end of the threads, pull the stem (Fig. 10) from
the radiator tank.
INSTALLATION (1) Push the draincock assembly body into the
tank opening until it snaps into place. (2) Tighten the draincock stem by turning clock-
wise to 2.0-2.7 N Im (18-25 in. lbs.) torque.
RADIATOR COOLANT FLOW CHECK
To determine whether coolant is flowing through
the cooling system, use the following procedure: (1) If engine is cold, idle engine until normal oper-
ating temperature is reached. Then feel the upper ra-
diator hose. If it is hot, coolant is circulating.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE RADIATOR PRES-
SURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Fig. 9 Cooling ModuleÐTypical
Fig. 8 Pressure Testing Radiator Cap
Fig. 10 Draincock AssemblyÐTypical
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 19

(2) Remove radiator pressure cap when engine is
cold, Idle engine until thermostat opens, you should
observe coolant flow while looking down the filler
neck. Once flow is detected install radiator pressure
cap.
RADIATOR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK PLUG OR THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to Draining Cool-
ing System of this section. (3) Remove hose clamps and hoses from the radia-
tor (Fig. 11). Remove coolant reserve system tank to
filler neck tube. (4) Remove automatic transmission hoses, if
equipped. (5) Remove fan and fan support assembly by dis-
connecting fan motor electrical connector. Remove
fan shroud retaining clips, located on the top and
bottom of the shroud for AA, AG, AJ and AP vehi-
cles. AC/AY vehicle retainer clips are located on the
top only. Lift shroud up and out of bottom shroud at-
tachment clips separating shroud from radiator. Fan
damage should always be avoided. (6) Remove upper radiator mounting screws. Dis-
connect the engine block heater wire if equipped. (7) Remove the air conditioning condenser attaching
screws located at the top front of the radiator,if
equipped. Radiator can now be lifted free from engine compart-
ment. Care should be taken not to damage radia-
tor cooling fins or water tubes during removal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide radiator down into position behind radiator
support (yoke). (2) Attach air conditioning condenser to radiator, if
equipped, with a force of approximately 10 lbs. to seat
the radiator assembly lower rubber isolators in the
mount holes provided. (3) Tighten radiator mounting screws to 11.9N Im
(105 in. lbs.). (4) Connect automatic transmission hoses, if
equipped. Tighten hose clamps to 4 N Im (35 in. lbs.).
(5) Slide fan shroud, fan and motor down into clips
on lower radiator flange. Replace shroud retaining
clips. (6) Install upper and lower radiator hoses (including
coolant reserve hose). (7) Connect fan motor electrical connection and con-
nect negative battery cable. (8) Fill cooling system with coolant. Refer to Refill-
ing Cooling Systems. in this group.
(9) Operate engine until it reaches normal operating
temperature. Check cooling system and automatic
transmission for correct fluid levels.
Fig. 11 Cooling ModulesÐAll Models
7 - 20 COOLING SYSTEM Ä