tire type CHEVROLET DYNASTY 1993 User Guide

(7) Unfasten brackets on steel heater water line at
dash panel and left frame rail. On Manual Transmis-
sion vehicles, unfasten clutch cable bracket at shock
tower and move aside. (8) Slide the power brake unit up and to the left
(mounting holes are slotted) on the dash panel, then
tilt inboard and up to remove.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble power
brake unit as this booster is serviced ONLY as a
complete assembly.
INSTALL (1) Position power brake booster onto dash panel.
(2) Install and tighten the 4 power brake booster to
dash panel mounting nuts (Fig. 5) to 29 N Im (250 in.
lbs.) torque. (3) Install steel heater water line and clutch cable
bracket, if so equipped. (4) Carefully position master cylinder on power
brake unit. (5) Install and tighten the 2 master cylinder to
power booster mounting nuts (Fig. 4) to 29 N Im (250
in. lbs.) torque. (6) Connect vacuum hose onto the check valve, lo-
cated on the power brake unit. (7) Using lubriplate, or equivalent, coat the bearing
surface of pedal pin (Fig. 5). (8) Connect power brake booster input rod to brake
pedal pin and install a NEW retainer clip. Use only a
new retainer clip DO NOT USE the old clip. (9) Check stop light operation.
WHEEL BEARINGS
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
Front wheel drive vehicles are equipped with per-
manently sealed front wheel bearings. There is no
periodic lubrication or maintenance recommended for
these units. However if during servicing of the brake
system, service to the front wheel bearing is required
refer to Group 2, Suspension in this service manual.
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS
NORMAL SERVICE
The lubricant in the rear wheel bearings should be
inspected whenever the hubs are removed to inspect
or service the brake system. Or at least every 30,000
miles (48,000 km). The bearings should be cleaned
and repacked with a High Temperature Multipurpose
E.P. Grease whenever the disc brake rotors are re-
surfaced.
INSPECTION
Check lubricant to see that it is adequate in quan-
tity and quality. If the grease is low in quantity, con-
tains dirt, appears dry or has been contaminated
with water, it will appear milky. The bearings then must be cleaned and repacked.
Do not add grease to
a wheel bearing that already has grease packed
in it. Relubricate completely. Mixing of different
types of greases in wheel bearings should be
avoided since it may result in excessive thinning
and leakage of the grease.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
For the servicing, removal and installation of the
rear wheel bearings follow the procedure listed below. (1) Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly.
(2) On rear disc brake equipped vehicles remove the
caliper and rotor. Support the caliper out of the way.
Do not allow the caliper to hang by the hydraulic
hose. See disc brake section in this group for caliper
removal procedure. (3) Remove grease cap, cotter pin, nut lock, nut,
thrust washer and outer wheel bearing. (4) Carefully slide hub or drum from spindle. Do not
drag inner bearing or grease seal over stub axle
(thread, bearing, and oil seal may be damaged.) Using
an appropriate tool remove the grease seal and inner
bearing from the drum or hub. Discard grease
Fig. 5 Power Brake Booster Mounting
5 - 70 BRAKES Ä

stant velocity joint housings. The rear Tone Wheels
are serviced as an assembly with the rear disc brake
rotor hub. Correct Anti-Lock System operation is dependent
on wheel speed signals from the wheel speed sensors.
The vehicles' wheels and tires must all be the same
size and type to generate accurate signals. In addi-
tion, the tires must be inflated to the recommended
pressures for optimum system operation. Variations
in wheel and tire size or significant variations in in-
flation pressure can produce inaccurate wheel speed
signals.
CONTROLLER ANTI-LOCK BRAKE (CAB)
The Anti-Lock Brake Controller is a small micro-
processor based device that monitors the brake sys- tem and controls the system while it functions in
Anti-Lock Mode. The CAB is located under the bat-
tery tray and is mounted to the left frame rail (Fig.
7) and uses a 60-way system connector. The power
source for the CAB is through the ignition switch to
pin 60 of the controller. With the ignition in the
RUN or ON position. IF THE (ABS) CONTROL-
LER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED BE SURE THE
CORRECT CONTROLLER IS USED. THE CON-
TROLLER ANTI-LOCK BRAKE (CAB) IS NOT
ON THE CCD BUS
Fig. 5 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 4 Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 6 Rear Tone Wheel
Fig. 7 Location Controller Anti-Lock Brake (CAB)
5 - 80 ANTI-LOCK 10 BRAKE SYSTEM Ä

PROPORTIONING VALVES
Two Proportioning Valves (Fig. 3) are used in the
system, one for each rear brake hydraulic circuit.
The Proportioning Valves function the same as in a
standard brake system. The Proportioning Valves are
located on the bottom of the hydraulic assembly (Fig.
1). They are the same screw in type as the ones used
on the Bendix Anti-Lock 10 and Bosh Anti-Lock
Brake systems.
WHEEL SPEED SENSORS
One Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS), is located at each
wheel (Fig. 4 and 5), and sends a small (AC) signal
to the control module (CAB). This signal is generated
by magnetic induction. The magnetic induction is
created, when a toothed sensor ring Tone Wheel (Fig.
6) passes a stationary magnetic Wheel Speed Sensor.
The (CAB) converts the (AC) signal generated at
each wheel into a digital signal. If a wheel locking
tendency is detected, the (CAB) will then modulate
hydraulic pressure to prevent the wheel(s) from lock-
ing. The front Wheel Speed Sensor is attached to a boss
in the steering knuckle (Fig. 4). The tone wheel is
part of the outboard constant velocity joint. The rear
Wheel Speed Sensor is mounted to the caliper adap-
tor (Fig. 5) and the rear tone wheel is an integral
part of the rear wheel hub (Fig. 6). The speed sensor
air gap is NOT adjustable. The four Wheel Speed Sensors are serviced individ-
ually. The front Tone Wheels are serviced as an as-
sembly with the outboard constant velocity joint. The
rear Tone Wheels are serviced as an assembly with
the rear brake hub. Correct Anti-Lock system operation is dependent
on the vehicle's wheel speed signals, that are gener-
ated by the Wheel Speed Sensors. The vehicle's
wheels and tires must all be the same size and type
to generate accurate signals. In addition, the tires
must be inflated to the recommended pressures for
optimum system operation. Variations in wheel and
tire size or significant variations in inflation pres-
sure can produce inaccurate wheel speed signals.
Fig. 3 Proportioning Valve Identification
Fig. 4 Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 5 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
5 - 118 ANTI-LOCK 6 BRAKE SYSTEM Ä

WHEEL SPEED SENSORS
One Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS), is located at each
wheel (Fig. 5 and 6), and sends a small AC signal to the
control module CAB. This signal is generated by mag-
netic induction. The magnetic induction is created,
when a toothed sensor ring (Tone Wheel) (Fig. 7) passes
a stationary magnetic Wheel Speed Sensor. The CAB
converts the AC signal generated at each wheel into a
digital signal. If a wheel locking tendency is detected,
the CAB will then modulate hydraulic pressure to pre-
vent the wheel or wheels from locking.
The front Wheel Speed Sensor is attached to a boss
in the steering knuckle (Fig. 5). The tone wheel is
part of the outboard constant velocity joint (Fig. 5). The rear Wheel Speed Sensor is mounted to the cal-
iper adapter (Fig. 6) and the rear tone wheel is an
integral part of the rear wheel hub (Fig. 7). The
speed sensor air gap is NOT adjustable.
The four Wheel Speed Sensors are serviced individ-
ually. The front Tone Wheels are serviced as an as-
sembly with the outboard constant velocity joint. The
rear Tone Wheels are serviced as an assembly with
the rear brake hub. Correct Antilock system operation is dependent on
the vehicle's wheel speed signals, that are generated
by the Wheel Speed Sensors. The vehicle's wheels
and tires must all be the same size and type to gen-
erate accurate signals. In addition, the tires must be
inflated to the recommended pressures for optimum
system operation. Variations in wheel and tire size
or significant variations in inflation pressure can
produce inaccurate wheel speed signals.
CONTROLLER ANTILOCK BRAKE CAB
The Antilock Brake Controller is a small micropro-
cessor based device which monitors the brake system
and controls the system while it functions in the An-
tilock mode. The CAB is mounted on the top of the
right front frame rail and uses a 60-way system con-
nector (Fig. 8). The power source for the CAB is
through the ignition switch in the Run or On posi-
tion. THE CONTROLLER ANTILOCK BRAKE
CAB IS NOT ON THE CCD BUS The primary functions of the CAB are:
(1) Detect wheel locking tendencies.
(2) Control fluid modulation to the brakes while in
Antilock mode. (3) Monitor the system for proper operation.
Fig. 5 Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 6 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 7 Rear Tone Wheel (Typical)
5 - 18 ANTILOCK 4 BRAKE SYSTEM Ä

When testing secondary cables for punctures and
cracks with an oscilloscope follow the equipment
manufacturers instructions. If an oscilloscope is not available, secondary cables
can be tested as follows:
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable
disconnected any longer than necessary during test-
ing. Excessive heat could damage the catalytic con-
verter. Total test time must not exceed ten minutes.
(a) With the engine not running, connect one end
of a test probe to a good ground. Use a probe made of
insulated wire with insulated alligator clips on each
end. (b) With engine running, move test probe along
entire length of all cables (approximately 0 to 1/8
inch gap). If punctures or cracks are present there
will be a noticeable spark jump from the faulty area
to the probe. Check the coil cable the same way.
Replace cracked, leaking or faulty cables.
When replacing cables, install the new high
tension cable and nipple assembly over cap or
coil tower. When entering the terminal into the
tower, push lightly, then pinch the large diam-
eter of nipple to release air trapped between the
nipple and tower. Continue pushing on the cable
and nipple until cables are properly seated in the
cap towers. A snap should be heard as terminal
goes into place. Use the same procedure to install cable in coil tower.
Wipe the spark plug insulator clean before reinstalling
cable and cover. Use the following procedure when removing the high
tension cable from the spark plug. First, remove the
cable from the retaining bracket. Then grasp the ter-
minal as close as possible to the spark plug. Rotate the
cover and pull the cable straight back. Pulling on the
cable itself will damage the conductor and termi-
nal connection. Do not use pliers and do not pull
the cable at an angle. Doing so will damage the
insulation, cable terminal or the spark plug in-
sulator. Wipe spark plug insulator clean before
reinstalling cable and cover. Resistance type cable is identified by the words
Electronic Suppression printed on the cable jacket.
Use an ohmmeter to check resistance type cable for
open circuits, loose terminals or high resistance as
follows: (a) Remove cable from spark plug.
(b) Lift distributor cap from distributor with
cables intact. Do not remove cables from cap. The
cables must be removed from the spark plugs. (c) Connect the ohmmeter between spark plug end
terminal and the corresponding electrode inside the
cap, make sure ohmmeter probes are in good contact.
Resistance should be within tolerance shown in the cable resistance chart. If resistance is
not within tolerance, remove cable at cap tower
and check the cable. If resistance is still not within
tolerance, replace cable assembly. Test all spark
plug cables in same manner.
To test coil to distributor cap high tension cable,
remove distributor cap with the cable intact. Do not
remove cable from the cap. Connect the ohmmeter
between center contact in the cap and remove the ca-
ble at coil tower and check cable resistance. If resis-
tance is not within tolerance, replace the cable.
SPARK PLUGS
Resistor spark plugs are used in all engines and
have resistance values of 6,000 to 20,000 ohms when
checked with at least a 1000 volt tester. Remove the spark plugs and examine them for
burned electrodes and fouled, cracked or broken por-
celain insulators. Keep plugs arranged in the order
in which they were removed from the engine. An iso-
lated plug displaying an abnormal condition indi-
cates that a problem exists in the corresponding
cylinder. Replace spark plugs at the intervals recom-
mended in Group O. Undamaged low milage spark plugs can be cleaned
and reused. Refer to the Spark Plug Condition sec-
tion of this group. After cleaning, file the center elec-
trode flat with a small point file or jewelers file.
Adjust the gap between the electrodes (Fig. 6) to the
dimensions specified in the chart at the end of this
section. Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion and change
spark plug gap. Tighten spark plugs to 28 N Im (20 ft.
lbs.) torque.
SPARK PLUG CONDITION
NORMAL OPERATING CONDITIONS
The few deposits present will be probably light tan
or slightly gray in color with most grades of commer-
cial gasoline (Fig. 7). There will not be evidence of
electrode burning. Gap growth will not average more
than approximately 0.025 mm (.001 in) per 1600 km
(1000 miles) of operation. Spark plugs that have nor-
mal wear can usually be cleaned, have the electrodes
filed and regapped, and then reinstalled. Some fuel refiners in several areas of the United
States have introduced a manganese additive (MMT)
CABLE RESISTANCE CHART
Ä IGNITION SYSTEMS 8D - 3

INSTALLATION
(1) Install antenna body and cable from under-
neath fender (Fig. 12). (2) Install gasket, adapter, and cap nut. Tighten
cap nut to 14 N Im (125 in. lbs.) with Antenna Nut
Wrench C-4816. (3) Install antenna mast into antenna body until
sleeve bottoms on antenna body (Fig. 11). (4) Route cable to radio if necessary.
BENCH TEST FOR ANTENNA MALFUNCTION
It is also possible to check short or open circuits
with an ohmmeter or continuity light once the an-
tenna has been removed from the vehicle. (1) Continuity should be present between the tip of
the mast and radio end pin (Fig. 13 and 14).
(2) No continuity should be observed or a very high
resistance of several megohms between the ground
shell of the connector and radio end pin.
(3) Continuity should be observed between the ground
shell of the connector and the mounting hardware.
Wiggle cable over its entire length to reveal inter-
mittent short or open circuits during step 1, 2 and 3.
POWER ANTENNA
OPERATION
The power operated radio antenna (Fig. 15) is a
telescoping type antenna, extended and retracted by a
reversible electric motor. The Automatic Power Antenna is controlled by a
combination of an external relay and limit switches
built into the antenna motor housing. The antenna is
actuated when radio is switched ON and the ignition
switch in ON or ACCESSORY position. The antenna
mast should extend. When the ignition switch or radio
is turned OFF the antenna mast should fully retract
and declutch.
Many antenna problems may be avoided by frequent
cleaning of the antenna mast telescoping sections. Clean
the antenna mast sections with a clean soft cloth.
Before an antenna is removed, the antenna perfor-
mance should be tested to decide if it is a reception
problem or an operational problem. Whenever an operational malfunction occurs, first
verify that the radio antenna wire harness is properly
connected. Check all connectors before starting normal
diagnosis and repair procedures. Refer to Power An-
tenna Electrical Diagnosis Chart (Fig. 16).
Fig. 12 Antenna Mounting
Fig. 11 Removing or Tightening Antenna Cap Nut
Fig. 13 Antenna Bench Test Points
Fig. 14 Antenna Bench Test PointsÐTwo Part
Ä AUDIO SYSTEM 8F - 21

(4) To remove motor from regulator, grip motor
housing and pull motor towards inner or outer panel,
depending on regulator type. Some rocking or twist-
ing action may be necessary to disengage motor from
regulator.
WARNING:DO NOT HAVE ANY HANDS OR FIN-
GERS IN SECTOR GEAR AREA WHERE THEY CAN
BE PINCHED BY SMALL MOVEMENTS OF REGULA-
TOR LINKAGE.
INSTALLATION
New motor gearbox retaining screw holes are not
threaded. It may be desirable to tap holes before at-
tempting assembly. (1) Install new motor on regulator by positioning
motor gearbox so that it engages regulator sector
teeth. (2) Position motor so that center post gearbox fits
into its pilot hole in plate. A slight rotational or
rocking movement may be necessary to bring three
motor gearbox screw holes into proper position. (3) Install three gearbox screws and one tie down
bracket screw, if applicable. Tighten to 5 to 7 N Im
(50 to 60 in. lbs.) torque. (4) Connect pigtail wiring harness connector.
(5) Remove window block.
(6) Actuate regulator with switch to verify satis-
factory operation.
BENCH REPAIR OF REGULATOR AND MOTOR
CONVENTIONAL REGULATORS
To repair or inspect the entire electric window reg-
ulator, remove from the door as follows:
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect wiring connector from motor.
(2) Hold glass in the up position.
(3) Remove rivets and/or screws that hold regula-
tor and motor to inner door panel. (4) Maneuver regulator assembly by hand to disen-
gage the drive arm slider from the glass lift channel.
Remove from door.
REPAIR
If entire regulator is not being replaced, repair as
follows:
WARNING:REMOVE COUNTER BALANCE SPRING
BEFORE THE MOTOR IS REMOVED. IF IT IS NOT,
THE SPRING TENSION WILL CAUSE THE REGULA-
TOR ARMS TO CLOSE AS SOON AS THE MOTOR
IS REMOVED AND COULD SERIOUSLY INJURE
YOUR FINGERS .
(1) Remove regulator as described above.
(2) Secure regulator in vise to prevent sector gear
from rotating. (3) Remove counter balance spring.
(4) Remove three motor attaching screws and re-
move motor. (5) Inspect regulator for:(a) Sector gear teeth must not be broken or se-
verely worn. (b) All rivets and sliders must be securely at-
tached. (c) Parts must not be bent or cracked.
(d) Sector gear must rotate freely.
(e) Perform window lift motor test as described
above.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install motor and attach with three motor at-
taching screws. If installation of new motor is neces-
sary, it may be desirable to tap motor retaining
screw holes. (2) Install counter balance spring.
(3) Replace regulator in door by reversing Removal
steps 1, 2 and 3. (4) Regulators may be secured to door panel using
rivets or 1/4-20 X 1/2 screws and nuts.
MOTOR REPLACEMENTÐFLEX DRIVE
REGULATORS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise or lower window to the proper access hole
position and remove screw that attaches the flex rack
to the drive arm (Fig. 10). Hold the glass in that po-
sition. (2) Remove the regulator attaching rivets by
knocking out the rivet center mandrel and drilling
Fig. 9 Rear Door Power WindowÐAC, and AY Body
Ä POWER WINDOWS 8S - 5

When a fusible link blows it is important to find
out what the problem is. They are placed in the sys-
tem for protection against shorts. Which can be
caused by a component failure or wiring failures. Do
not just replace the fusible link to correct the
problem. When diagnosing a faulty fusible link it is impor-
tant to check the wire carefully. In some instances
the link may be blown and it will not show through
the insulation, the wire should be checked over its
entire length for internal breaks. (1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Cut out the blown portion of the fusible link.
(3) Strip 1 inch of insulation from each end of the
existing fusible link. (4) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the fusible link. Make sure the tubing will be
long enough to cover and seal the entire repair area. (5) Cut a replacement piece of fusible link approx-
imately two inches longer than the piece removed. (6) Remove one inch of insulation from each end of
the replacement fusible link. (7) Spread the strands of wire apart on each of the
exposed wires (Fig. 11 example 1). (8) Push the two ends of the wire together until
the strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig.
11 example 2). (9) Twist the wires together (Fig. 11 example 3).
(10) Solder the wires together using rosin core type
solder only. Do not use acid core type solder.
(11) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing. (12) Secure the fusible link to the existing ones to
prevent chafing or damage to the insulation. (13) Connect battery and test all affected systems.
WIRING REPAIR
When replacing or repairing a wire, it is important
that the correct gauge be used as shown in the wir-
ing diagrams. The wires must also be held securely
in place to prevent damage to the insulation. (1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each end the
wire. (3) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area. (4) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each
part of the exposed wires (Fig. 11 example 1). (5) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 11 ex-
ample 2). (6) Twist the wires together (Fig. 11 example 3).
(7) Solder the connection together using rosin core
type solder only. Do not use acid core solder. (8) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing. (9) Secure the wire to the existing ones to prevent
chafing or damage to the insulation. (10) Connect battery and test all affected systems.
CONNECTOR REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector that is to be repaired
from its mating half. (3) Remove connector locking wedge (Fig. 12).
(4) Position the connector locking finger away from
the terminal. Pull on the wire to remove the termi-
nal from the connector (Fig. 13).
Fig. 11 Wire Repair
Fig. 12 Connector Locking Wedge Tab
Ä GENERAL INFORMATION 8W - 5

(5) Reset the terminal locking tang, if it has one.
(6) Insert the removed wire in the same cavity on
the repair connector. (7) Repeat steps four thru six for each wire in the
connector. Check that all wires are inserted into the
proper cavities. For connector pin out identification
refer to the wiring diagrams. (8) Insert the connector locking wedge into the re-
paired connector. (9) Connect connector to its mating half.
(10) Connect battery and test all affected systems.
CONNECTOR AND TERMINAL ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect Battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector being repaired form
its mating half. (3) Cut off the existing wire connector directly be-
hind the insulator. Remove six inches of tape from
the harness. (4) Stagger cut all wires on the harness side about
1/2 inch apart (Fig. 14). (5) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire on
the harness side. (6) Stagger cut the matching wires on the repair
connector assembly in the opposite order as was done
on the harness side of the repair. Allow extra length
for soldered connections. Check that the overall
length is the same as the original (Fig. 14). (7) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire.
(8) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area. (9) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each
part of the exposed wires (Fig. 11 example 1). (10) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 11 ex-
ample 2). (11) Twist the wires together (Fig. 11 example 3). (12) Solder the connection together using rosin
core type solder only. Do not use acid core solder.
(13) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing. (14) Repeat steps 8 thru 13 for each wire.
(15) Re-tape the wire harness starting 1-1/2 inches
behind the connector and 2 inches past the repair. (16) Reconnect the repaired connector.
(17) Connect battery and test all affected systems.
TERMINAL REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector being repaired form
its mating half. (3) Remove connector locking wedge (Fig. 12).
(4) Position the connector locking finger away from
the terminal. Pull on the wire to remove the termi-
nal from the connector (Fig. 13). (5) Cut the wire 6 inches from the back of the con-
nector. (6) Remove 1 inch of insulation from the wire on
the harness side. (7) Select a wire from the terminal repair assem-
bly that best matches the color wire being repaired. (8) Cut the repair wire to the proper length and re-
move 1 inch of insulation. (9) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area. (10) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each
part of the exposed wires (Fig. 11 example 1). (11) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 11 ex-
ample 2). (12) Twist the wires together (Fig. 11 example 3).
(13) Solder the connection together using rosin
core type solder only. Do not use acid core solder.
Fig. 13 Connector Locking Finger and Locking
Wedge
Fig. 14 Stagger Cutting Wires
8W - 6 GENERAL INFORMATION Ä

(13) Disconnect articulated exhaust pipe joint from
turbocharger housing. (14) Remove turbocharger coolant inlet line assem-
bly from engine (Fig. 11). (15) Lift turbocharger off manifold mounting studs
and lower assembly down and out of vehicle.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
Remove 9 exhaust manifold retaining fasteners and
remove exhaust manifold (Fig. 14).
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
(1) Discard gasket and clean all gasket surfaces of
manifolds and cylinder head. (2) Test manifold gasket surfaces for flatness with
straight edge. Surface must be flat within 0.15 mm
per 300 mm (.006 in. per foot) of manifold length. (3) Inspect manifolds for cracks or distortion. Re-
place manifold if necessary.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new manifold gasket. DO NOT APPLY
SEALER . (2) Set exhaust manifold in place. Tighten retain-
ing nuts and bolt, starting at center and progressing
outward in both directions to 23 N Im (200 in. lbs.)
torque. Repeat this procedure until all fasteners are
at specified torque (Fig. 14).
TURBOCHARGER
INSTALLATION
(1) Position turbocharger on exhaust manifold. Ap-
ply antiseize compound to threads and install the
lower (passenger side) retaining nut (Fig. 12).
Tighten nut to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Apply thread sealant to lower (inlet) coolant
line fitting and install fitting into turbocharger hous-
ing (Fig. 11). (3) Install lower coolant line assembly to engine
(Fig. 11). (4) Install oil drain back tube and fitting (with
new gasket) to turbocharger housing (Fig. 13). (5) Install turbocharger to block support bracket
and install screws finger tight (Fig. 13). Tighten
block screw FIRST to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.) torque,
then tighten screw to turbocharger housing to 27
N Im (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Reposition exhaust pipe. Tighten articulated
joint shoulder bolts to 28 N Im (250 in. lbs.) torque.
(7) See Suspension, Group 2, and install right
driveshaft and wheel and tire assembly. Install air
deflector on crossmember. (8) From Above: Install three turbocharger to
manifold retaining nuts. Tighten to 54 N Im (40 ft.
lbs.) torque (Fig. 12). (9) Reconnect Heated Oxygen sensor electrical con-
nection and vacuum lines. (10) Attach oil feed line to turbocharger bearing
housing. Tighten fitting to 14 N Im (125 in. lbs.)
torque (Fig. 12). (11) Install coolant line and tighten fittings to 41
N Im (30 ft. lbs.) torque (Fig. 11).
(12) Install air cleaner support (Fig. 1).
(13) Align front engine mount in crossmember
bracket. Install through bolt and tighten to 54 N Im
(40 ft. lbs.) torque. (14) Install air cleaner assembly (Fig. 1).
(15) Fill cooling system. Refer to Cooling System,
Group 7 for procedure.
INTAKE/EXHAUST MANIFOLD SERVICEÐ3.0L
ENGINE
The intake system has a large air intake plenum of
aluminum alloy and a cross type intake manifold
(Fig. 2).
Fig. 13 Oil Return Tube and Support Bracket
Fig. 14 Exhaust ManifoldÐTurbo III Engine
Ä EXHAUST SYSTEM AND INTAKE MANIFOLD 11 - 13