trailer CHEVROLET S10 1995 2.G User Guide

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Trai/ering Package
If your vehicle comes with the Trailering Package, there is also a load rating
which includes the weight
of the vehicle and the trailer it tows. This rating
is called the Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR).
When you weigh your trailer, be sure to include the weight
of everything
you put in it. And, remember to figure the weight
of the people inside as
part of your load.
Your dealer can help you determine your GCWR.
Add-on Equipment
When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many
people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before
you buy and install the new equipment.
NOTICE:
Your warranty doesn’t cover parts or components that fail
because
of overloading.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Truck Loading Information
1. Recommended location for cargo
center
of gravity
for cargo weight
rating. This is the
point where the
mass of a body is
concentrated and,
if suspended at
that point, would
balance front and
rear.
Refer to Truck Camper Loading Information label in the glove box for
Use rear edge of load floor for measurement purposes.
“”’and
“B” dimensions.
Example of Proper Truck and Camper Match
1. Camper center of
gravity.
2. Recommended
center
of gravity
location zone.
The camper’s center of gravity should fall within the center\
of gravity zone
for your vehicle’s cargo load.
Campers can only be installed
in a long box pickup. Check your
Truck-Camper Loading Label
in your glovebox to determine if your vehicle
can carry a slide-in camper.
You must weigh any accessories, trailer hitches or other equipment you add
to your vehicle. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra
weight may shorten the center
of gravity zone for your vehicle. Your dealer
can help you with this.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine If your slide-in camper and its load weigh less than the CWR, the center of
gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger.
Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle-camper match. He’ll also
help you determine your CWR.
After you’ve loaded your vehicle and camper, drive to a weigh station and
weigh on the front and rear wheels separately. This will tell you the loads on
your axles. The loads on the front and rear axles shouldn’t be more than
either
of the GAWRs. The total of the axle loads should not be more than
the GVWR.
Open your driver’s door and look at the door lock pillar for the
Certificatiomire label to find out your GAWR and GVWR.
If you’ve gone over your weight ratings, move or take
out some things until
all the weights fall below the ratings. Of course, you should always tie down
any loose items when
you load your vehicle or camper.
When you install and load your slide-in camper, check the manufacturer’s
instructions.
If you want more information
on curb weights, cargo weights, cargo weight
rating and the correct center of gravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer
can help you. Just ask for a copy of “Consumer Information, Truck-Camper
Loading.”
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the CWR for your vehicle. Weigh
your vehicle with your trailer attached,
so that you won’t go over the
GVWR or the GAWR.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load
the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information, see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index.
Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab
General Motors is aware that some vehicle owners may consider having the
pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed.
However, we recommend that conversions of this type not be done to
pickups. Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are
differences between
a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which
may affect vehicle safety. For specific information
on this pickup, contact
the GM Zone Office for your area. (See the “Warranty and Owner
Assistance” booklet for Zone Office.)
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Towing a Trailer
NOTICE:
Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result\

in costly repairs not covered by your warranty.
To pull a trailer
correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your
GM dealer
for important information about towing a trailer with your
vehicle.
Most vehicles are ready for some trailer towing. If yours was built with
trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering
is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes
in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes
correct equipment, and it has
to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important
trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety
and that
of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you
pull a trailer.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points.
There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions,
having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only
where you live but also where you’ll be driving.
A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 2,000 pounds
(900 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer
will weigh more than
2,000 pounds (900 kg). You can ask a hitch
dealer about sway controls.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new
vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t
drive over
50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This
helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier
loads.
If you have an automatic transmission, you should use DRIVE (D) (or,
as you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your
vehicle
in DRIVE (D) when towing a trailer will minimize heat
build-up and extend the life of your transmission. If you have a manual
transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use
FIFTH
(5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower
gear)-
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude,
road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment
that you have on your vehicle.
You can ask your dealer for our trailering information
or advice, or you can
write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance
Information Booklet.
In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Assistance Center
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H
8P7
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure
because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The gross vehicle
weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may
carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will
tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your
vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the
Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine A B
If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh
10%
of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a
“weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue
(A) should weigh 12% of the
total loaded trailer weight
(B).
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue,
separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to
get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find
these numbers on the Certification label on the driver’s door lock pillar or
see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW
limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks
going by, and rough roads are a
few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Here are some rules to follow:
If you use a step bumper hitch, and your trailer tongue has a V-shaped
foot, your bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Check the distance
from the front edge
of the foot to the middle of the hitch ball socket. If
the distance is less than
12 inches, take the foot off the trailer tongue.
If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than
2,000 pounds (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted,
weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This
equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good
handling when you’re driving.
If your vehicle has the bumper delete option, do not bolt any type of
hitch to the close-out panel. The close-out panel will not support a
hitch.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer.
Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer
so that the tongue will
not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the
trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for
attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave
just enough slack
so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety
chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs
its own brakes
- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brakes system can tap into vehicle’s hydraulic brake system
except:
Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system will
use more than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3~~) of fluid from your vehicle’s master
cylinder. If it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even
lose your brakes.
Will the trailer parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa)
of pressure? If not, the
trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at
the port on
the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper
tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake
tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out
for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel
of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep
in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good
deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle
is by itself.
Before
you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments),
safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the
trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working.
This lets you check your electrical connection at
the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally
to be sure that the load is secure, and
that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when
driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help
you avoid situations that
require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer.
And, because you’re
a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before
you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the
trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the
right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
I NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the traile\
r
to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this
so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring and a
heavy-duty turn signal flasher (included in the optional trailering package).
The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a
turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash,
telling other drivers you’re about
to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash
for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are
not. It’s important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep
downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes
so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade,
shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph
(70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following:
Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If
you
turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep
uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating.
To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK
(P) (or the manual transmission
out of gear and the parking brake applied) for
a few minutes before turning
the engine
off. If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine
Overheating” in the Index.
Parking on Hi//s
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If
something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured,
and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet, or into
gear for a manual transmission. When parking uphill,
turn your wheels
away from the curb. When parking downhill,
turn your wheels into the
curb.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the
chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then
shift into PARK
(P), or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.
5. If you have a four-wheeldrive vehicle with a manual transfer case
shift lever, be sure the transfer case is
in a drive gear - not in
NEUTRAL (N).
6. Release the parking brake.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See
the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system, and brake
adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help
you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a
good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to
see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
Trailer Lighting Systems Wiring
See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.
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