CHEVROLET SILVERADO 2005 1.G Owners Manual

Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension
that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This
will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on
the rear axle.
After you have loaded the trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue separately, to see if the weights
are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them
right by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers on the
Certication label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or
see Loading Your Vehicle for more information. Then
be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle,
or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer
tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure
you don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply
the weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
A:Body to Ground Distance
B:Front of Vehicle
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must
be adjusted so the distance (A) remains the same both
before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle.
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If you use a step-bumper hitch, the bumper could be
damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample room
when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and
the bumper.
If you will be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg) be sure to use a
properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway
control of the proper size. This equipment is very
important for proper vehicle loading and good handling
when driving. Always use a sway control if the trailer
will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a
hitch dealer about sway controls.
Fifth Wheel and Gooseneck Trailering
Fifth wheel and gooseneck trailers can be used with
many pickup models. These trailers place a larger
percentage of the weight (kingpin weight) on the tow
vehicle than conventional trailers. Make sure this weight
does not cause the vehicle to exceed GAWR or GVWR.Fifth wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be
15 to 25 percent of the trailer weight up to the maximum
amount specied in the trailering chart for your vehicle.
See “Weight of the Trailer” in this section for more
information.
The hitch should be located in the pickup bed so that it’s
centerline is over or slightly in front of the rear axle. Take
care that it is not so far forward that it will contact the back
of the cab in sharp turns. This is especially important for
short box pickups. Trailer pin box extensions and sliding
fth wheel hitch assemblies can help this condition. There
should be at least six inches of clearance between the top
of the pickup box and the bottom of the trailer shelf that
extends over the box.
Make sure the hitch is attached to the tow vehicle frame
rails. Do not use the pickup box for support.
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Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be
provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer
manufacturer. If you are towing a trailer up to 5,000 lbs
(2 271 kg) with a factory-installed step bumper, you
may attach the safety chains to the attaching points on
the bumper. If you are towing a trailer up to your
vehicle’s trailer rating limit you may attach the safety
chains to the attaching point on the hitch platform. If you
are towing with an aftermarket hitch follow the trailer
or hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so
you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to
drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install,
adjust and maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at
the port on the master cylinder that sends the uid
to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and nally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
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Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle.
You cannot see or smell CO. It can cause
unconsciousness or death. SeeEngine
Exhaust on page 2-56. To maximize your safety
when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle. Do not use
the climate control setting for maximum air
because it only recirculates the air inside
your vehicle. SeeClimate Control System
on page 3-20.Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods
of sunshine, the oor of the truck bed may become
very warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed
that might be affected by high ambient temperatures.
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Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Your vehicle may be equipped with four-wheel steering.
If you use it while backing your trailer, the same
rules apply. However, with four-wheel steering, your rig
will respond more quickly and it may take additional
practice to get used to backing up with four-wheel
steering.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
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Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in
DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission
to lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often
(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the
transmission shifts too often. SeeTow/Haul Mode
Light on page 3-48.
If you have a 5-speed manual transmission and you are
towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear.
Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need
to, a lower gear).If you have a 6-speed manual transmission and you are
towing a trailer, it’s better not to use SIXTH (6) gear.
Drive in FIFTH (5) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with
the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few
minutes before turning the engine off. For manual
transmissions, let the engine run while parked,
preferably on level ground, with the transmission out of
gear and the parking brake applied, for a few minutes
before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat
warning, seeEngine Overheating on page 5-38.
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Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People can
be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer
can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet for an automatic transmission, or into
gear for a manual transmission.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an
automatic transmission, or REVERSE (R) for a
manual transmission.
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the
transfer case is in a drive gear and not in NEUTRAL.
6. Release the regular brakes.
{CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle
if the automatic transmission shift lever is not
fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake rmly
set. Your vehicle can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle
can move suddenly. You or others could be
injured. To be sure your vehicle will not move,
even when you are on fairly level ground, use
the steps that follow.
Always put the automatic transmission shift
lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake
rmly set. If you have a manual transmission,
turn the engine off and rmly set the parking
brake.
If the transfer case on four-wheel-drive
vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be
free to roll, even if your automatic
transmission shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be
sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not
in NEUTRAL.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine
Shift into a gear
Release the parking brake
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance (Gasoline
Engine) on page 6-4for more information. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are automatic
transmission uid (don’t overll), engine oil, axle
lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of
these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help
you nd them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea
to review these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle is equipped with one of the following wiring
harnesses for towing a trailer or hauling a slide-in
camper.
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Basic Trailer Wiring
All regular, extended cab and crew cab pickups have an
eight-wire trailer towing harness.
For vehicles not equipped with heavy duty trailering, the
harness is clipped to the vehicle’s frame behind the
spare tire mount. The harness requires the installation
of a trailer connector, which is available through
your dealer.If your trailer is equipped with electric brakes, you can
get a jumper harness (electric trailer brake control)
with a trailer battery feed fuse from your dealer.
If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard
four-way round pin connector, you can also get an
adapter from your dealer.
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Heavy-DutyTrailer Wiring Harness
PackageFor vehicles equipped with heavy duty trailering, the
harness is connected to the trailer mounted to the hitch
platform. The eight-wire harness contains the following
trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Light Blue: CHMSL*
Red: Battery Feed**
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake
* The Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) wire is
tied next to the trailer wiring harness for use with a
trailer, slide-in camper or cap.
**If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery,
turn on the headlamps to boost the vehicle system
voltage and properly charge the battery.
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