stop start CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1995 User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1995, Model line: SUBURBAN, Model: CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1995Pages: 486, PDF Size: 26.58 MB
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Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re
awaiting an opportunity. For
one thing, following too closely reduces
your area of
vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle.
Also,
you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly
slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.
When it looks like
a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but
stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move
so you
will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane.
If the way
is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more
than makes up for the distance
you would lose by dropping back. And
if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only
slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.
If other cars are lined up
to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But
take care that someone isn’t trying to pass
you as you pull out to pass
the slow vehicle. Remember
to glance over your shoulder and check
the blind spot.
Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane
change signal before moving
out of the right lane to pass. When you
are far enough ahead
of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside
mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back
into the
right lane. (Remember that if your right outside mirror is convex, the
vehicle
you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it
really is.)
Try not to pass more
than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads.
Reconsider before passing
the next vehicle.
Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle
too rapidly. Even though the
brake lights are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.
If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get
ahead of
you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.
Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three
control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough
friction where
the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying
to steer and constantly seek an
escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid
most skids by taking reasonable care suited
to existing conditions, and by
not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible.
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The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems.
In the braking skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering
skid, too much speed or steering
in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too much throttle causes the
driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your
foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts
to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and
quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If
you start steering
quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a
second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other
material is on the road. For safety,
you’ll want to slow down and adjust your
driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more
limited.
While driving
on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid
sudden steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by
shifting
to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide.
You may
not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding.
Learn to recognize warning clues
- such as enough water, ice or packed
snow
on the road to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow down when you
have any doubt.
Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid
only the braking
skid.
Driving Guidelines
This multipurpose passenger vehicle is defined as a utility vehicle in
Consumer Information Regulations issued by the National Highway Traffic
Safety Administration (NHTSA)
of the United States Department of
Transportation. Utility vehicles have higher ground clearance and a
narrower track to make them capable
of performing in a wide variety of
off-road applications. Specific design characteristics give them a higher
center of gravity than ordinary cars. An advantage of the higher ground
clearance is a better view
of the road allowing you to anticipate problems.
They are
not designed for cornering at the same speeds as conventional
2-wheel drive vehicles any more than low-slung sports cars are designed
to
perform satisfactorily under off-road conditions. If at all possible, avoid
sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers. As with other vehicles of this type, failure
to operate this vehicle correctly may result
in loss of control or vehicle
rollover.
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Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of
the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some
things to keep
in mind. At higher speeds:
you approach things faster and you have less time to scan the terrain for
obstacles.
you have less time to react.
you have more vehicle bounce when you drive over obstacles.
you’ll need more distance for braking, especially since you’re on an
unpaved surface.
Scanning the Terrain
Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You
need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are
some things to consider.
Surface Cunditiuns. Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt,
gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow or ice. Each
of these surfaces affects
the steering, acceleration, and braking of your vehicle in different ways.
Depending upon the kind
of surface you are on, you may experience
slipping, sliding,
wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction, and
longer braking distances.
Surface Obstacles . Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock,
log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you’re not prepared for them. Often
these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall
of
the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:
Is the path ahead clear?
Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead?
Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? (There’s more discussion
of these subjects later.)
0 Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction quickly?
When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip
on the
steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel
out
of your hands if you’re not prepared.
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Q: What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and I
can’t make it up the hill?
A: If this happens, there are some things you should do, and there are
some things you must not do. First, here’s what you should do:
0 Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from rolling
0 If your engine is still running, shift the transmission into reverse,
backwards.
Also, apply the parking brake.
release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill in reverse.
If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to restart it. With the
brake pedal depressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the
transmission to
PARK (P) (or, shift to NEUTRAL (N) if your vehicle
has a manual transmission) and restart the engine. Then, shift to
reverse, release the parking brake, and slowly back down
the hill as
straight
as possible in reverse.
0 As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering
wheel at
the 12 o’clock position. This way, you’ll be able to tell if your
wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It’s best that you
back down the
hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or
right direction. Turning
the wheel too far to the left or right will
increase the possibility of a rollover.
Here are
some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall,
when going up
a hill.
0 Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into NEUTRAL (N) (or
depressing the clutch, if you have a manual transmission) to “rev-up”
the engine and regain forward momentum. This won’t work. Your
vehicle
will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of
control.
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your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly,
keeping your vehicle under control at all times.
0: Are there some things I should not do when driving down a hill?
A: Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose
control and have a serious accident.
0 When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of
the hill. A hill that’s not
too steep to drive down may be too steep to
drive across. You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down.
0 Never go downhill with the transmission in NEUTRAL (N), or with the
clutch pedal depressed in a manual shift
. This is called
“free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do all the work and could
overheat and fade.
Q: Am I likely to stall when going downhill?
A: It’s much more likely to happen going uphill. But if it happens going
downhill, here’s what to do.
0 Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes. Apply the parking
0 Shift to PARK (P) (or to Neutral with the manual transmission) and,
brake.
while still braking, restart the engine.
1, Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight
down.
If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.
Driving Across an Incline
Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill.
If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline.
Here are some things to consider:
A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive
across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel
base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the
likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive
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Driving ln Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems. But heavy rain can
mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water
is before you drive through it. If it’s deep
enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles,
or exhaust pipe, don’t try it - you
probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and
other vehicle parts.
If the water isn’t
too deep, then drive through it slowly. At fast speeds, water
splashes
on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also
occur
if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is
under water, you’ll never be able
to start your engine. When you go through
water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to
stop.
If
you have a diesel engine, see “Driving Through Water (Diesel Engines)”
in the Index for more information on driving through water.
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When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in
advance. If you miss your exit do not, under any circumstances, stop and
back up. Drive on to the next exit.
The exit ramp
can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The exit speed
is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of
motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend
to
think you are going slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re
not fresh
- such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many
miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and
shoes you
can easily drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained,
it’s ready to go. If
it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of
course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in
GM dealers all
across
North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.
Here are some things you can check before
a trip:
0 Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean
inside and outside?
Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels?
Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread
good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the
recommended pressure?
Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major
storm system?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route?
Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain
falling asleep
at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or
whatever.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring (included in
the optional trailering package). The green arrows
on your instrument panel
will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will
also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash
for turns even if the bulbs
on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep
downgrade. If
you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On
a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph
(70 kdh) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
If
you have an automatic transmission you should use DRIVE (3) (or, as
you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in
DRIVE (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat build-up and extend
the life
of your transmission.
If
you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better
not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need
to,
a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, consider the following:
Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If
you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep
uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar
to engine overheating.
To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission
in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission
out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning
the engine off.
If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine
Overheating” in the Index.
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If
something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured,
and both your vehicle and
the trailer can be damaged.
But
if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet, or in gear
for a manual transmission.
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2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the
chocks absorb the load.
4. Re-apply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then
shift to
PARK (P), or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a
drive gear-not
in NEUTRAL (N).
6. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
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h
9. Then replace the
pressure cap. Be
sure the arrows
on the pressure
cap line up like
this.
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the fan
is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully
engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan
speed increases as the clutch more
fully engages. So you may hear an
increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping
or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not
required and the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what
to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly. Steer
to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may
require the same correction you’d
use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove
your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way
you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and
noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well
off the road if
possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to
change a flat tire safely.
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