stop start CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY 2002 Owner's Manual

ENGINE CONTROL MODULE C2 (DIESEL) - BLACK 40 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
82 - -
83 - -
84 - -
85 - -
86 T753 20DG/YL FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START)
87 - -
88 K35 20GY/YL EGR SOLENOID CONTROL
89 K35 20GY/YL EGR SOLENOID CONTROL
90 - -
91 - -
92 - -
93 - -
94 - -
95 - -
96 - -
97 - -
98 - -
99 - -
100 - -
101 - -
102 - -
103 - -
104 - -
105 - -
106 - -
107 - -
108 - -
109 - -
110 - -
111 - -
112 K119 20DB/LG CLUTCH PEDAL UPSTOP SWITCH SENSE
113 - -
114 - -
115 K14 14LB/BR FUEL INJECTOR NO. 4 CONTROL
116 K111 14DB/LB COMMON INJECTOR DRIVER
117 - -
118 K11 14WT/DB FUEL INJECTOR NO. 1 CONTROL
119 K12 14TN FUEL INJECTOR NO. 2 CONTROL
120 K13 14BR/LB FUEL INJECTOR NO. 3 CONTROL
121 - -
ENGINE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR (DIESEL) - BLUE 2 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 K2 20TN/BK ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL
2 K900 20DB/DG SENSOR GROUND
RS8W-80 CONNECTOR PIN-OUTS8W-80-57
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TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID (ATX) - BLACK 3 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1- -
2 F202 18PK/GY FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-START)
3 K54 18DB/WT TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID CONTROL
TRACTION CONTROL SWITCH - BLACK 2 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 B27 20DG/WT TRACTION CONTROL SWITCH SENSE
2 Z427 20BK/WT GROUND
TRAILER TOW CONNECTOR (EXCEPT BUILT-UP-EXPORT)-4WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 L74 18LG RIGHT STOP SIGNAL
2 L77 18WT/BR FUSED PARK LAMP RELAY OUTPUT (LEFT)
3 Z1 18BK/DG GROUND
4 L73 18YL LEFT STOP SIGNAL
RS8W-80 CONNECTOR PIN-OUTS8W - 80 - 113
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check system and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 25 -
EMISSIONS CONTROL/
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS/PCV
VALVE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots. 3. Install new rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves. 4. Remove rings and check
grooves. If groove is not proper
width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s). 5. Replace cylinder head assembly.
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or
damaged.6. Replace seal(s).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
9 - 8 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
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STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL AND
FILTER CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in the Maintenance Schedule. (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/MAINTE-
NANCE SCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION)
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY. CONTACT YOUR DEALER OR GOVERN-
MENT AGENCY FOR LOCATION OF COLLECTION
CENTER IN YOUR AREA.
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Remove oil fill cap.
(3) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
Refer to Hoisting and Jacking Recommendations.
(Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOIST-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug and
gasket if damaged.
(6) Remove oil filter. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL FILTER - REMOVAL)
(7) Install and tighten drain plug in crankcase.
(8) Install new oil filter. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL FILTER - INSTALLATION)
(9) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil. (Refer to LUBRICA-
TION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION)
(10) Install oil fill cap.
(11) Start engine and inspect for leaks.(12) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
NOTE: Care should be exercised when disposing
used engine oil after it has been drained from a
vehicle engine. Refer to the WARNING listed above.
OIL FILTER
DESCRIPTION
The engine oil filter (Fig. 88) is a high quality full-
flow, disposable type. Replace the oil filter with a
Mopartor the equivalent.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Position an oil collecting container under oil fil-
ter location.
CAUTION: When servicing the oil filter avoid
deforming the filter can by installing the remove/in-
stall tool band strap against the can to base lock
seam. The lock seam joining the can to the base is
reinforced by the base plate.
(3) Using a suitable filter wrench, turn oil filter
(Fig. 88) counterclockwise to remove.
Fig. 87 Oil Level
1 - ENGINE OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK
Fig. 88 Oil Filter
9 - 54 ENGINE 2.4LRS
OIL (Continued)
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check system and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 25 -
EMISSIONS CONTROL/
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS/PCV
VALVE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots. 3. Install new rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves. 4. Remove rings and check
grooves. If groove is not proper
width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s). 5. Replace cylinder head assembly.
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or
damaged.6. Replace seal(s).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
9 - 82 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
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(9) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil. (Refer to LUBRICA-
TION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION)
(10) Install oil fill cap.
(11) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(12) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
NOTE: Care should be exercised when disposing
used engine oil after it has been drained from a
vehicle engine. Refer to the WARNING listed above.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL LEVEL
CHECK
The best time to check engine oil level is after it
has sat overnight, or if the engine has been running,
allow the engine to be shut off for at least 5 minutes
before checking oil level.
Checking the oil while the vehicle is on level
ground will improve the accuracy of the oil level
reading (Fig. 102). Add only when the level is at or
below the ADD mark.
Fig. 102 Engine Oil Level Dipstick and Fill Locations
1 - COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER 3 - ENGINE OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK
2 - ENGINE OIL FILL CAP 4 - RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
Fig. 101 Engine Oil Drain Plug and Oil Filter
1 - DRAIN PLUG
2 - OIL FILTER
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 139
OIL (Continued)
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bearing housing, routes the engine oil back to the
crankcase.
The most common turbocharger failure is bearing
failure related to repeated hot shutdowns with inad-
equate ªcool-downº periods. A sudden engine shut
down after prolonged operation will result in the
transfer of heat from the turbine section of the tur-
bocharger to the bearing housing. This causes the oil
to overheat and break down, which causes bearing
and shaft damage the next time the vehicle is
started.Letting the engine idle after extended operation
allows the turbine housing to cool to normal operat-
ing temperature. The following chart should be used
as a guide in determining the amount of engine idle
time required to sufficiently cool down the turbo-
charger before shut down, depending upon the type
of driving and the amount of cargo.
TURBOCHARGER(COOL DOWN(CHART
Driving Load Turbocharger Idle Time
(in
minuetes)
Condition Temperature Before
Shut Down
Stop & Go Empty Cool Less than 1
Stop & Go Medium Warm 1
Highway
SpeedsMedium Warm 2
City Traffic Max.
GCWRWarm 3
Highway
SpeedsMax.
GCWRWarm 4
Uphill
GradeMax.
GCWRHot 5
Fig. 3 Wastegate Operation
1 - SIGNAL LINE
2 - EXHAUST BYPASS VALVE
3 - WASTEGATE
4 - EXHAUST
5 - TURBINE
6 - EXHAUST BYPASS VALVE
7 - WASTEGATE
8 - EXHAUST
9 - TURBINE
10 - SIGNAL LINE
Fig. 4 Turbocharger Oil Supply and Drain
1 - BEARINGS
2 - OIL SUPPLY (FROM ENGINE BLOCK)
3 - OIL RETURN (TO OIL PAN)
RGEXHAUST SYSTEM AND TURBOCHARGER11a-3
TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM (Continued)
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the nozzle spring, maintain the nozzle in the closed
position against the opening forces applied to its
pressure stage (Fig. 2).
Injector opens (start of injection)
The solenoid valve is energized with the pickup
current which serves to ensure that it open quickly.The force exerted by the triggered solenoid now
exceeds that of the valve spring and the armature
opens the bleed orifice. Almost immediately, the high-
level pick-up current is reduced to the lower holding
current required for the electromagnet. This is possi-
ble due to the magnetic circuit's air gap now being
smaller. When the bleed orifice opens, fuel can flow
from the valve control chamber into the cavity situ-
ated above it, and from there via the fuel return to
the tank. The bleed orifice prevents complete pres-
sure balance, and the pressure in the valve control
chamber sinks as a result. This leads to the pressure
in the valve-control chamber being lower than that in
the nozzle's chamber volume which is still at the
same pressure level as the rail. The reduced pressure
in the valve-control chamber causes a reduction in
the force exerted on the control plunger, the nozzle
needle open as a result, and injection starts (Fig. 2).
Injector opens fully
The control plunger reaches its upper stop where it
remains supported by a cushion of fuel which is gen-
erated by the flow of fuel between the bleed and feed
orifices. The injector nozzle has now opened fully,
and the fuel is injected into the combustion chamber
at a pressure almost equal to that in the fuel rail
(Fig. 2).
Injector closes (end of injection)
As soon as the solenoid valve is no longer trig-
gered, the valve spring forces the armature down-
wards and the ball closes the bleed orifice. The
armature is a 2±piece design. Here, although the
armature plate is guided by a driver shoulder in its
downward movement, it can ªoverspringº with the
return spring so that it exerts no downwards-acting
forces on the armature and the ball. The closing of
the bleed orifice lead to pressure build up in the con-
trol chamber via the input from the feed orifice. This
pressure is the same as that in the rail and exerts an
increased force on the control plunger through its
end face. This force, together with that of the spring,
now exceeds the force exerted by the chamber volume
and the nozzle needle closes. Injection ceases as soon
as the nozzle needle comes up against its bottom stop
again (Fig. 2).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Remove engine cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
COVER - REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect injector electrical connector.
(4) Remove fuel return line from injector (Fig. 3).
(5) Remove fuel injector high pressure line (Fig. 3).
(6) Remove fuel injector retainer and retaining
bolt (Fig. 3).
Fig. 2 INJECTOR COMPONENTS
1 - INJECTOR CLOSED (AT-REST STATUS)
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
3 - TRIGGERING ELEMENT (SOLENOID VALVE)
4 - FUEL INLET (HIGH PRESSURE) FROM THE RAIL
5 - VALVE BALL
6 - BLEED ORIFICE
7 - FEED ORIFICE
8 - VALVE CONTROL CHAMBER
9 - VALVE CONTROL PLUNGER
10 - FEED PASSAGE TO THE NOZZLE
11 - NOZZLE NEEDLE
14a - 12 FUEL INJECTIONRG
FUEL INJECTOR (Continued)
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(6) Start engine and let idle just long enough to
circulate power steering fluid through the analyzer
and hoses. Shut off engine.
(7) Check power steering fluid level and add fluid
as necessary. Start engine again and let idle until the
air is out of the fluid.
(8) Gauge should read below 300 psi (2068 kPa). If
above, inspect the hoses for restrictions and repair as
necessary. The initial pressure should be in the range
of 100-275 psi (689-1896 kPa) depending on fluid
temperature. The flow meter should read above 1.5
GPM.
CAUTION: The following test procedure involves
testing maximum pump pressure output and flow
control valve operation. Do not leave valve closed
for more than four seconds as the pump could be
damaged.
NOTE: Power steering pump maximum pressure for
2.4L engines is 1,200 ± 1,350 psi (8,274 ± 9,308
kPa). Power steering pump maximum pressure for
all other engines is 1,400 ± 1,500 psi (9,653 ± 10,342
kPa).
(9) Close analyzer valve fully three times and
record highest pressure indicated each time. All three
readings must be within specifications. If any of the
three power steering pump pressures are above orbelow specifications, replace pump. (Refer to 19 -
STEERING/PUMP - REMOVAL)
CAUTION: Do not force the steering to operate
against the stops for more than 4 seconds at a time
because pump damage can result.
(10) Once the pump has been verified as working
correctly, completely open the valve on the Power
Steering Analyzer. Turn the steering wheel to the
extreme left until the stop in the steering gear is
met. Hold it there for 2±4 seconds, then release it.
Now turn the steering wheel to the right until the
right stop is met. Hold it there for 2±4 seconds, then
release it. Record the stabilized pressure at each
position. Compare the recorded readings to the spec-
ifications. If the output pressures are not within 100
psi (689 kPa) of one another against either stop or
are below specifications, the steering gear is leaking
internally and must be replaced. (Refer to 19 -
STEERING/GEAR - REMOVAL)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STEERING
SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHARTS
NOTE: There are three diagnosis charts following
that cover POWER STEERING NOISE, STEERING
WHEEL FEEL, and POWER STEERING FLUID.
POWER STEERING NOISE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OBJECTIONABLE HISS
OR WHISTLE*1. Damaged or mispositioned
steering column shaft/coupling dash
panel seal.1. Reposition or replace steering
column shaft/coupling dash panel seal.
2. Noisy valve in power steering
gear.2. Replace power steering gear.
3. Mis-routed power steering hose. 3. Check routing of power steering
hoses. Ensure hoses do not come in
unwanted contact with other
components and objects.
RATTLE OR EXCESSIVE
CLUNK**1. Power steering gear loose on front
suspension crossmember.1. Inspect power steering gear
mounting bolts. Replace as necessary.
Tighten to the specified torque.
2. Front suspension crossmember
mounting fasteners loose at frame.2. Tighten the front suspension
crossmember mounting fasteners to the
specified torque.
3. Loose tie rod (outer or inner). 3. Check tie rod pivot points for wear.
Replace worn/loose parts as required.
RSSTEERING19-3
STEERING (Continued)
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(2) Fill the fluid reservoir to the proper level and
let the fluid settle for at least two (2) minutes.
(3) Start the engine and let run for a few seconds,
then turn the engine off.
(4) Add fluid if necessary. Repeat the above steps
until the fluid level remains constant after running
the engine.
(5) Raise the front wheels off the ground.
(6) Start the engine.
(7) Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left,
lightly contacting the wheel stops.
(8) Add fluid if necessary.
(9) Lower the vehicle, then turn the steering wheel
slowly from lock-to-lock.
(10) Stop the engine. Check the fluid level and
refill as required.
(11) If the fluid is extremely foamy, allow the vehi-
cle to stabilize a few minutes, then repeat the above
procedure.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - PUMP (2.4L ENGINE)
(1) Remove the (-) negative battery cable from the
battery and isolate cable.
(2) Remove the cap from the power steering fluid
reservoir.
(3) Using a siphon pump, remove as much power
steering fluid as possible from the power steering
fluid reservoir.
(4) Raise the vehicle on jack stands or centered on
a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrica-
tion and Maintenance.
(5) Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring harness
from the vehicle wiring harness at the rear engine
mount bracket.
NOTE: The exhaust system needs to be removed
from the engine to allow for an area to remove the
power steering pump from the vehicle.
(6) Remove the four bolts and flag nuts securing
the catalytic converter from the exhaust manifold
(Fig. 3).(7) Disconnect all the exhaust system isolators/
hangers from the brackets on the exhaust system (2
at the mufflers and 1 at the resonator) (Fig. 4).
(8) Remove the exhaust system by moving it as far
rearward, then lowering the front below the cross-
member and out of the vehicle.
(9) Remove the power steering fluid supply hose
from the fitting on the power steering pump. Drain
off excess power steering fluid from hose.
(10) Move the heat sleeve on the power steering
return hose to expose the hose connection at the
pump (Fig. 5). Remove the hose from the power
steering Pump. Allow the remaining power steering
fluid to drain from the power steering pump and res-
ervoir through the removed return hose.
(11) Remove the power steering fluid pressure line
from the power steering pump (Fig. 6). Drain excess
power steering fluid from tube.
(12) Remove the fasteners, then the accessory
drive splash shield.
Fig. 3 Catalytic Converter to Exhaust Manifold
1 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
2 - BOLT
3 - GASKET
4 - FLAG NUT
19 - 38 PUMPRS
PUMP (Continued)
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