light CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2001 Service Manual

²Visual Buzziness (high frequency, rapid vibra-
tion up and down)
To rule out vibrations due to brakes or powertrain:
²Lightly apply brakes at speed; if vibration occurs
or is enhanced, vibration is likely due to causes other
than tire and wheel assemblies.
²Shift transmission into neutral while vibration
is occurring; if vibration is eliminated, vibration is
likely due to causes other than tire and wheel assem-
blies.
For brake vibrations, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
BASE/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
For powertrain vibrations, (Refer to 3 - DIFFER-
ENTIAL & DRIVELINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING).
For tire and wheel assembly vibrations, continue
with this diagnosis an testing procedure.
TIRE AND WHEEL BALANCE
(1) Balance the tire and wheel assemblies as nec-
essary following the wheel balancer manufacturer's
instructions and using the information listed in Stan-
dard Procedure - Tire And Wheel Balance. (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Road test the vehicle for at least 5 miles, fol-
lowing the format described in Road Test.
(3) If the vibration persists, continue with this
diagnosis an testing procedure.
TIRE AND WHEEL RUNOUT/MATCH MOUNTING
(1)System Radial Runout.This on-the-vehicle
system check will measure the radial runout includ-
ing the hub, wheel and tire.
(a) Raise vehicle so tires clear floor. Refer to
Hoisting in Lubrication and Maintenance.
(b) Apply masking tape around the circumfer-
ence of the tire in the locations to be measured
(Fig. 2). Do not overlap the tape.
(c) Check system runout using Dial Indicator
Set, Special Tool C-3339A with 25-W wheel, or
equivalent. Place the end of the indicator against
each taped area (one at a time) (Fig. 2) and rotate
the tire and wheel. System radial runout should
not exceed 0.76 mm (0.030 inch) with no tread
ªdipsº or ªsteps.º Tread ªdipsº and ªstepsº can be
identified by spikes of the dial indicator gauge.
²Tread9dips9; Rapid decrease then increase in
dial indicator reading over 101.6 mm (4.0 inch) of
tread circumference.
²Tread9steps9; Rapid decrease or increase in dial
indicator reading over 101.6 mm (4.0 inch) of tread
circumference.
(d) If system runout is excessive, re-index the
tire and wheel assembly on the hub. Remove
assembly from vehicle and install it back on thehub two studs over from original mounting posi-
tion. If re-indexing the tire and wheel assembly
corrects or reduces system runout, check hub
runout and repair as necessary (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - BASE/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
ROTORS - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(e) If system runout is still excessive, continue
with this diagnosis an testing procedure.
(2)Tire and Wheel Assembly Radial Runout.
This radial runout check is performed with the tire
and wheel assembly off the vehicle.
(a) Remove tire and wheel assembly from vehicle
and install it on a suitable wheel balancer.
(b) Check system runout using Dial Indicator
Set, Special Tool C-3339A with 25-W wheel, or
equivalent. Place the end of the indicator against
each taped area (one at a time) (Fig. 2) and rotate
the tire and wheel. Radial runout should not
exceed 0.76 mm (0.030 inch) with no tread ªdipsº
or ªsteps.º Tread ªdipsº and ªstepsº can be identi-
fied by spikes of the dial indicator gauge.
(c) If runout exceeds limits, mark the original
location of the tire on the wheel at the valve stem
(Fig. 3). Also, mark the tire and wheel to indicate
the original high spot of the assembly and record
the runout measurement.
(d) If runout exceeds limits, the tire will need to
be dismounted from the wheel to verify wheel vs.
tire contribution. Refer to Wheel Runout below.
(3)Lateral Runout.Lateral runout for the vehi-
cle system as well as the tire and wheel assembly
should be less than 0.76 mm (0.030 inch). The same
Fig. 2 Radial Runout Measurement
1 - MASKING TAPE
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
22 - 2 TIRES/WHEELSRS
TIRES/WHEELS (Continued)

When wheels and tires are being installed, extra
care is needed to ensure that this direction of rota-
tion is maintained.
Refer to Owner's Manual for rotation schedule.
REMOVAL - TIRE AND WHEEL ASSEMBLY
(ALUMINUM WHEEL)
(1) Raise the vehicle so the tire and wheel assem-
bly clears ground level.
(2) Remove the 5 wheel mounting nuts from the
studs.
(3) Remove the tire and wheel from the hub.
REMOVAL - TIRE AND WHEEL ASSEMBLY
(STEEL WHEEL)
(1) Raise the vehicle so the tire and wheel assem-
bly clears ground level.
(2) Noting the location of the valve stem in rela-
tionship to the wheel mounting nuts, remove the
three wheel mounting nuts securing the wheel cover
to the wheel and hub (Fig. 12).
CAUTION: When removing the wheel cover, do not
pry the wheel cover from the wheel. This can result
in damage to the wheel cover. The wheel cover is
removed by pulling it off the wheel by hand.
(3) Grasp the wheel cover at the edges in line with
the remaining installed wheel mounting nuts and
pull straight outward from the wheel. This will pop
the wheel cover retaining tabs over the two remain-
ing wheel nuts, removing the wheel cover from the
vehicle.
(4) Remove the two remaining wheel mounting
nuts from the hub's studs.(5) Remove the wheel and tire from the hub.
INSTALLATION - TIRE AND WHEEL ASSEMBLY
(ALUMINUM WHEEL)
NOTE: Never use oil or grease on studs or wheel
mounting nuts.
(1) Position the tire and wheel assembly on the
wheel mounting studs using the hub pilot as a guide.
Place and hold the wheel flush up against the mount-
ing surface.
(2) Loosely install all 5 wheel mounting nuts.
Lightly snug the wheel nuts, then progressively
tighten them in the proper sequence (Fig. 13).
Tighten wheel mounting nuts to 135 N´m (100 ft.
lbs.).
(3) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - TIRE AND WHEEL ASSEMBLY
(STEEL WHEEL)
NOTE: Never use oil or grease on studs or wheel
mounting nuts.
(1) Position the tire and wheel assembly on the
wheel mounting studs using the hub pilot as a guide.
Place and hold the wheel flush up against the mount-
ing surface.
NOTE: Wheel mounting nuts must be installed on
the studs as shown (Fig. 14) to allow proper instal-
lation of the wheel cover.
(2) Using the valve stem as an index placed at the
12 O'clock position, install andlightly tightentwo
wheel mounting nuts on the studs located at the 4
O'clock and 8 O'clock positions as shown (Fig. 14).
Fig. 12 NUTS SECURING WHEEL COVER
1 - VALVE STEM
2 - BOLT-ON WHEEL COVER
3 - NUTS SECURING WHEEL COVER
Fig. 13 Tightening Sequence
RSTIRES/WHEELS22-7
TIRES/WHEELS (Continued)

(3) Place the wheel cover on the wheel in the fol-
lowing fashion:
(a) Align the valve notch in the wheel cover with
the valve stem on the wheel.
(b) At the same time, align the two holes in the
wheel cover having the retaining tabs with the two
installed wheel nuts (Fig. 15).
(c) Press in on center of wheel cover until wheel
cover retaining tabs push past and engage rear of
previously installed wheel mounting nuts (Fig. 15).
This will hold the wheel cover in place.(4) Install andlightly tightenthe three remain-
ing wheel mounting nuts, securing the wheel cover in
place (Fig. 12).
(5) Progressively tighten all five wheel mounting
nuts in the proper sequence (Fig. 16). Tighten wheel
nuts to a torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(6) Lower the vehicle.
TIRES
DESCRIPTION - TIRE
Tires are designed and engineered for each specific
vehicle. They provide the best overall performance
for normal operation. The ride and handling charac-
teristics match the vehicle's requirements. With
proper care they will give excellent reliability, trac-
tion, skid resistance, and tread life.
Driving habits have more effect on tire life than
any other factor. Careful drivers will obtain, in most
cases, much greater mileage than severe use or care-
less drivers. A few of the driving habits which will
shorten the life of any tire are:
²Rapid acceleration
²Severe application of brakes
²High-speed driving
²Taking turns at excessive speeds
²Striking curbs and other obstacles
²Operating vehicle with over or under inflated
tire pressures
Radial ply tires are more prone to irregular tread
wear. It is important to follow the tire rotation inter-
val shown in the section on Tire Rotation. This will
help to achieve a greater tread-life potential.
TIRE IDENTIFICATION
Tire type, size, aspect ratio and speed rating are
encoded in the letters and numbers imprinted on the
side wall of the tire. Refer to the chart to decipher
the tire identification code (Fig. 17).
Fig. 14 TWO WHEEL MOUNTING NUTS INSTALLED
1 - WHEEL
2 - VALVE STEM
3 - HUB PILOT
4 - NUTS
Fig. 15 WHEEL COVER INSTALLATION OVER TWO
NUTS
1 - RETAINING TABS
2 - VALVE STEM
3 - BOLT-ON WHEEL COVER
Fig. 16 NUT TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
22 - 8 TIRES/WHEELSRS
TIRES/WHEELS (Continued)

(2) Install andlightly tightenthe three remain-
ing wheel mounting nuts, securing the wheel cover in
place (Fig. 25).
(3) Tighten all five wheel mounting nuts in the
proper sequence (Fig. 28). Tighten wheel nuts to a
torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
WHEEL MOUNTING STUDS -
FRONT
REMOVAL
CAUTION: If a wheel mounting stud needs to be
replaced in the hub and bearing assembly, the
studs MUST NOT be hammered out of the hub
flange. If a stud is removed by hammering it out of
the bearing flange, damage to the hub and bearing
assembly will occur leading to premature bearing
failure.
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly from
the vehicle.
(3) Remove the two adapter mounting bolts secur-
ing both the disc brake caliper adapter to the steer-
ing knuckle (Fig. 29).
(4) Remove the disc brake caliper and adapter as
an assembly from the steering knuckle (Fig. 29).
Hang the assembly out of the way using wire or a
bungee cord. Use care not to overextend the brake
hose when doing this.
(5) Remove brake rotor from hub by pulling it
straight off wheel mounting studs (Fig. 29).
(6) On the wheel mounting stud to be removed,
install a wheel mounting (lug) nut far enough so the
threads on the stud are even with end of nut. Install
Remover, Special Tool C-4150A on hub and bearing
assembly flange and wheel stud (Fig. 30).
(7) Tighten down on special tool, pushing wheel
stud out of the hub flange. When shoulder of wheel
stud is past flange, remove special tool from hub and
bearing. Remove nut from stud and remove stud
from hub flange.
Fig. 26 Two Wheel Mounting Nuts Installed
1 - WHEEL
2 - VALVE STEM
3 - HUB PILOT
4 - NUTS
Fig. 27 Wheel Cover Installation Over Two Nuts
1 - RETAINING TABS
2 - VALVE STEM
3 - BOLT-ON WHEEL COVER
Fig. 28 Nut Tightening Sequence
RSTIRES/WHEELS22-15
WHEEL COVER (Continued)

BODY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY
DESCRIPTION............................1
WARNING...............................2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING..................2
WATER LEAKS..........................2
WIND NOISE...........................3
STANDARD PROCEDURE...................4
PLASTIC BODY PANEL REPAIR.............4
HEAT STAKING.........................8
SPECIFICATIONS.........................9
SPECIAL TOOLS........................151DOOR - FRONT.........................152
DOORS - SLIDING.......................162
DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE.......180
EXTERIOR.............................184
HOOD................................199
INSTRUMENT PANEL....................202
INTERIOR.............................208
PAINT................................220
SEATS................................222
STATIONARY GLASS.....................243
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS..................248
BODY
DESCRIPTION - LOCK CYLINDERS
Ignition, door, deck lid, and rear hatch lock cylin-
ders are all codable to the key. Lock barrels, tum-
blers, and tumbler springs are available to allow the
technician to change replacement locks cylinders to
match the customer's original key set. See the appro-
priate section in this manual for lock cylinder
removal. See the Moparž catalogue for part numbers
and lock coding procedures.
DESCRIPTION - VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
Throughout this group, references to the
DaimlerChrysler Corporation vehicle family identifi-
cation code are used when describing a procedure
that is unique to that vehicle. Refer to Introduction
Group of this manual for detailed information on
vehicle identification. If a procedure is common to all
vehicles covered in this manual, no reference will be
made to a vehicle family code.
DESCRIPTION - PUSH-IN FASTENERS
DaimlerChrysler Corporation uses many different
types of push-in fasteners to secure the interior and
exterior trim to the body. Most of these fasteners can
be reused to assemble the trim during various repair
procedures. At times, a push-in fastener cannot be
removed without damaging the fastener or the com-
ponent it is holding. If it is not possible to remove a
fastener without damaging a component or body, cut
or break the fastener and use a new one when
installing the component. Never pry or pound on a
plastic or pressed-board trim component. Using a
suitable fork-type prying device, pry the fastener
from the retaining hole behind the component beingremoved. When installing, verify fastener alignment
with the retaining hole by hand. Push directly on or
over the fastener until it seats. Apply a low-force pull
to the panel to verify that it is secure.
When it is necessary to remove components to ser-
vice another, it should not be necessary to apply
excessive force or bend a component to remove it.
Before damaging a trim component, verify hidden
fasteners or captured edges holding the component in
place.
DESCRIPTION
PAINT
The original equipment finish is a multi-step pro-
cess that involves cleaning, electrodeposition (e-coat),
base coat, and clear coat steps. Additionally, selected
areas of the vehicle may be coated with an anti-chip
finish.
On most vehicles a two-stage paint application
(base coat/clear coat) is used. Color that is applied to
primer is called base coat. The clear coat protects the
base coat from ultraviolet light and provides a dura-
ble high-gloss finish.
STATIONARY GLASS
Windshields are made of two pieces of glass with a
plastic inner layer. Windshields and selected station-
ary glass are structural members of the vehicle. The
windshield glass is bonded to the windshield frame
with urethane adhesive.
Windshields and other stationary glass protect the
occupants from the effects of the elements. Wind-
shields are also used to retain some airbags in posi-
tion during deployment. Urethane bonded glass is
difficult to salvage during removal. The urethane
bonding is difficult to cut or clean from any surface.
RSBODY23-1

Before removing the glass, check the availability of
replacement components.
SEATS
Seat modules are made up of a seat frame, seat
cushion, seat back cushion, a covering material, and
the electrical components used for power operation, if
equipped. Some seat systems also contain seat belt
components and supplemental restraint systems.
Seat assemblies transport the occupants in comfort
and safety. Seat assemblies also help position occu-
pants correctly in the event of airbag deployment.
Seat cushions, coverings, and electrical components
are serviceable. Refer to the appropriate group in
this manual.
EXTERIOR COMPONENTS
Exterior sheet metal components make up the
exterior of the vehicle. Some exterior metal systems
are welded assemblies, such as doors and hoods.
Some exterior trim items are made of composite.
The exterior is finished in various metal stampings
and composite moldings. These assemblies give the
vehicle a finished appearance and protect the occu-
pants from the elements. Some components are part
of the energy absorbing system used to protect the
occupants in collisions. The exterior sheet metal is
repairable and adjustable for fit and finish. Welded
and bonded component systems are adjustable as a
system. Trim components made of composite are
stamped with the type of material used.
DaimlerChrysler uses various fasteners to retain
trim items. At times, it is not possible to remove trim
items without damaging the fastener. If it is not pos-
sible to remove an item without damaging a compo-
nent, cut or break the fasteners and use new ones
when installing the component.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
WARNING:
EYE PROTECTION SHOULD BE USED WHEN SER-
VICING GLASS COMPONENTS. PERSONAL INJURY
CAN RESULT.
USE A OSHA APPROVED BREATHING FILTER
WHEN SPRAYING PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN A CON-
FINED AREA. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
AVOID PROLONGED SKIN CONTACT WITH PETRO-
LEUM OR ALCOHOL BASED CLEANING SOLVENTS.
PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
DO NOT STAND UNDER A HOISTED VEHICLE THAT
IS NOT PROPERLY SUPPORTED ON SAFETY
STANDS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION:
When holes must be drilled or punched in an innerbody panel, verify depth of space to the outer body
panel, electrical wiring, or other components. Dam-
age to vehicle can result.
Do not weld exterior panels unless combustible
material on the interior of vehicle is removed from
the repair area. Fire or hazardous conditions, can
result.
Always have a fire extinguisher ready for use when
welding.
Disconnect the negative battery cable clamp when
servicing electrical components that are live when
the ignition is OFF. Damage to electrical system can
result.
Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds on
painted surfaces. Damage to finish can result.
Do not use harsh alkaline based cleaning solvents
on painted or upholstered surfaces. Damage to fin-
ish or color can result.
Do not hammer or pound on plastic trim panel
when servicing interior trim. Plastic panels can
break.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
23 - 2 BODYRS
BODY (Continued)

When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop lightover the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
RSBODY23-3
BODY (Continued)

moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PLASTIC BODY
PANEL REPAIR
Resin Transfer Molded (RTM) body panels are rein-
forced with a continuous fiberglass mesh. Epoxy
resin is injected into a gel-coated and fiberglass lined
mold to form a body panel. Sheet molded compound
(SMC) body panels are constructed with fiberglass
strands usually 1 inch or shorter, epoxy resin formed
into sheet stock and pressed in mold flowing material
to form a sheet molded compound (SMC) body panel.
RTM and SMC body panels can be repaired with
epoxy adhesive after market products. Refer to
instructions provided by the manufacturer of prod-
ucts being used to repair RTM or SMC.
DaimlerChrysler Corporation recommends that a
trained automotive body technician perform body
panel repair procedures (Fig. 1).
SAFETY PRECAUTION AND WARNINGS
WARNING: EYE PROTECTION SHOULD BE USED
WHEN SERVICING RTM AND SMC COMPONENTS.
PERSONAL INJURE CAN RESULT.USE AN OSHA
APPROVED BREATHING DEVICE WHEN MIXING
EPOXY, GRINDING RTM AND SMC, AND SPRAYING
PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN A CONFINED AREA. PER-
SONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.AVOID PROLONGEDSKIN CONTACT WITH EPOXY RESIN, PETROLEUM,
OR ALCOHOL BASED SOLVENTS. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.DO NOT VENTURE UNDER A
HOISTED VEHICLE THAT IS NOT PROPERLY SUP-
PORTED ON SAFETY STANDS. PERSONAL INJURY
CAN RESULT.
²When holes must be drilled or cut in body pan-
els, verify locations of internal body components and
electrical wiring. Damage to vehicle can result.
²Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds on
undamaged painted surfaces around repair areas.
Damage to finish can result.
If it is required to section a large panel for an SMC
or RTM repair, it will be necessary to reinforce the
panel with epoxy structural adhesive (rigid repair
adhesive) (Fig. 2). To bond two plastic panels
together, a reinforcement must overlap both panels.
The panels must be ªV'dº at a 20 degree angle. The
area to be reinforced should be washed, then sanded.
Be sure to wipe off any excess soap and water when
finished. Lightly sand or abrade the plastic with an
abrasive pad or sandpaper. Blow off any dust with
compressed air or wipe with a clean dry rag.
When bonding SMC or RTM panels, use a two-part
epoxy adhesive. Properly mix parts A and B, and
apply it to the panels being repaired. Be sure that
enough adhesive has been applied to allow squeeze
out and to fill the full bond line. Once the pieces
have been brought together, do not move them until
the adhesive is cured. The assembly can be held
together with clamps, rivets, etc. A faster cure can be
obtained by heating with a heat lamp or heat gun.
After the parts have been bonded and have had
time to cure, rough sand the seam and apply the
final adhesive filler to the area being repaired.
Fig. 1 Panel Repair
Fig. 2 Panel Sectioning
1 - EXISTING PANEL
2 - NEW PANEL
3 - PANEL ADHESIVE
4 - BONDING STRIP
23 - 4 BODYRS
BODY (Continued)

DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
EXTERIOR HANDLE
REMOVAL.............................180
INSTALLATION..........................180
HINGE
REMOVAL.............................180
INSTALLATION..........................181
LATCH
REMOVAL.............................181
INSTALLATION..........................181
LATCH STRIKER
REMOVAL.............................181
INSTALLATION..........................181
LIFTGATE
REMOVAL.............................181INSTALLATION..........................182
LIFTGATE SPOILER
REMOVAL.............................182
INSTALLATION..........................182
LOCK CYLINDER
REMOVAL.............................182
INSTALLATION..........................182
SUPPORT CYLINDER
REMOVAL.............................183
INSTALLATION..........................183
TRIM PANEL
REMOVAL.............................183
INSTALLATION..........................183
EXTERIOR HANDLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove liftgate trim panel. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE/
TRIM PANEL - REMOVAL)
(2) Disconnect the exterior handle electrical con-
nectors.
(3) Remove the two outer screws and the two inner
screws.
(4) Remove the exterior handle/license plate light
assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Route the exterior handle electrical connector
through the door and position handle.
(2) Install the two inner bolts and tighten to 40
N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the two out screws and tighten to 20
N´m (15 ft. lbs.).
(4) Connect the electrical connector.
(5) Install the trim panel. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE/TRIM
PANEL - INSTALLATION)
HINGE
REMOVAL
(1) Release liftgate latch and open liftgate.
(2) Support liftgate on a suitable lifting device in
the full open position.(3) Apply several layers of duct tape on the outside
of to roof across the gap to the lift gate to hold the
liftgate in position.
(4) Remove bolts attaching liftgate hinge to roof
header.
(5) Disconnect VTSS switch from the body har-
ness.
(6) Remove bolts attaching hinge to liftgate (Fig.
1).
(7) Remove hinge from vehicle.
Fig. 1 Liftgate Hinge
1 - LIFTGATE
2 - HINGE
3 - REAR ROOF HEADER
23 - 180 DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATERS

EXTERIOR NAME PLATES -
TAPE ATTACHED
REMOVAL
(1) Mark reference points before removing.
(2) Using a heat gun gently apply heat in a circu-
lar motion to loosen the adhesive bond.
(3) Using a nonmetallic prying device, such as a
plastic or wood trim stick gently pry up at corners
and remove.
(4) Clean off all traces of adhesive or double sided
tape from the panel with a general purpose adhesive
remover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean panel surface with isopropy alcohol.
(2) Align badgeing to reference points.
(3) Install and press securely to full adhesive con-
tact
(4) Clean away any reference points.
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES -
ADHESIVE ATTACHED
REMOVAL
(1) Mark reference points before removing.
(2) Using a heat gun gently apply heat in a circu-
lar motion to loosen the adhesive bond.
(3) With your fingernail lift up and peel away
badgeing/tape from panel, using a heat gun as you
go.
(4) Clean off all traces of adhesive from the pan-
el(s) with a general purpose adhesive remover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean panel surface with isopropy alcohol.
(2) Remove paper carrier and align badgeing/tape
to reference points or adjacent panel.
(3) Install and press securely, using a plastic
spreader to eliminate all air bubbles.
(4) Remove top protective carrier.
(5) Clean away any reference points.
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove headlamp housing. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/HEAD-
LAMP UNIT - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove mud guard.
(3) Remove inner splash shield.
(4) Remove fender to fascia nuts.(5) Remove outboard cowl grille/fender bracket
screw.
(6) Remove fender bolt to lower rocker panel.
(7) Remove fender bolt to lower cowl.
(8) Pull fascia away from fender.
(9) Remove bolts attaching fender to upper rail.
(10) Remove fender from vehicle (Fig. 8).
INSTALLATION
(1) Place fender in position on vehicle.
(2) From inside engine compartment, start the
center upper rail bolt. install all the bolts attaching
fender to upper rail and tighten.
(3) Install fender to lower cowl panel bolt.
(4) Install fender to rocker panel bolt.
(5) Place fascia into position.
(6) Install outboard cowl grille/fender bracket
screw.
(7) Install fender to fascia nuts.
(8) Install inner splash shield.
(9) Install mud guard.
(10) Install headlamp assembly. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
HEADLAMP UNIT - INSTALLATION)
(11) Check fender for flush and gap.
FUEL FILL DOOR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove left quarter trim panel.
Fig. 8 Fender
1 - FASTENERS
2 - FENDER
3 - FASTENERS
RSEXTERIOR23 - 191