steering CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2001 Workshop Manual

(6) Tighten the stabilizer bar bushing retainer to
cradle attaching bolts (Fig. 35) to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(7) Install the reinforcement on the front suspen-
sion cradle crossmember and install the bolts attach-
ing the reinforcement to the cradle crossmember
(Fig. 33). Tighten the M-14 size bolts to a torque of
163 N´m (120 ft. lbs.). Tighten the M-12 size bolts to
a torque of 108 N´m (80 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install the lower control arm rear bushing
retainer bolts through reinforcement on each side of
each lower control arm rear bushing. Tighten bolts to
a torque of 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the two bolts and bushings attaching
the reinforcement and rear of cradle crossmember to
body of vehicle (Fig. 33). Tighten bolts to a torque of
163 N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install the power steering cooler (Fig. 32).
Tighten bolts to a torque of 11 N´m (100 in. lbs.).
(11) Lower the vehicle.STRUT
DESCRIPTION - STRUT ASSEMBLY
A Macpherson type strut assembly is used in place
of a conventional front suspension's upper control
arm and upper ball joint. The bottom of the strut
mounts directly to the steering knuckle using two
bolts and nuts going through the strut clevis bracket
and steering knuckle. The top of the strut mounts
directly to the strut tower of the vehicle using the
threaded studs on the strut assemblies upper mount.
The strut assembly includes the components listed
in the figure (Fig. 39).
Each component is serviced by removing the strut
assembly from the vehicle and disassembling it.
The coil springs are side-oriented. Springs on the
left side of the vehicle have a left-hand wind top-to-
bottom while springs on the right side have a right-
hand wind top-to-bottom. This helps provide better
vehicle stability during jounce and rebound maneu-
vers of the front suspension. Left and right springs
must not be interchanged. Coil springs are rated sep-
Fig. 39 STRUT ASSEMBLY
1 - NUT
2 - UPPER MOUNT
3 - PIVOT BEARING
4 - UPPER SPRING SEAT
5 - UPPER SPRING ISOLATOR
6 - COIL SPRING7 - DUST SHIELD
8 - JOUNCE BUMPER
9 - LOWER SPRING ISOLATOR
10 - STRUT (DAMPER)
RSFRONT2-19
STABILIZER BAR (Continued)

arately for each corner or side of the vehicle depend-
ing on optional equipment and type of vehicle
service. If the coil springs require replacement, be
sure that the springs are replaced with springs meet-
ing the correct load rating and spring rate for the
vehicle and its specific options.
OPERATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY
The strut assembly cushions the ride of the vehicle,
controlling vibration, along with jounce and rebound
of the suspension.
The coil spring controls ride quality and maintains
proper ride height.
The spring isolators isolate the coil spring at the
top and bottom from coming into metal-to-metal con-
tact with the upper seat and strut.
The jounce bumper limits suspension travel and
metal-to-metal contact under full jounce condition.
The strut dampens jounce and rebound motions of
the coil spring and suspension.
During steering maneuvers, the strut assembly
(through a pivot bearing in the upper strut mount)
and steering knuckle (through the lower ball joint)
turn as an assembly.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STRUT ASSEMBLY
(FRONT)
(1) Inspect for damaged or broken coil springs
(Fig. 39).
(2) Inspect for torn or damaged strut assembly
dust boots (Fig. 39).
(3) Inspect the coil spring isolator on the lower
spring seat for any signs of damage or deterioration.
(4) Lift dust boot (Fig. 40) and inspect strut
assembly for evidence of fluid running from the
upper end of fluid reservoir. (Actual leakage will be a
stream of fluid running down the side and dripping
off lower end of unit). A slight amount of seepage
between the strut rod and strut shaft seal is not
unusual and does not affect performance of the strut
assembly (Fig. 40). Also inspect jounce bumpers for
signs of damage or deterioration.
REMOVAL - STRUT ASSEMBLY
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE NUT FROM THE
STRUT ROD WHILE STRUT ASSEMBLY IS
INSTALLED IN VEHICLE, OR BEFORE STRUT
ASSEMBLY SPRING IS COMPRESSED.
(1) Raise the vehicle. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly from loca-
tion on front of vehicle requiring strut removal.(3) If both strut assemblies are to be removed,
mark the strut assemblies right or left according to
which side of the vehicle they were removed from.
(4) Remove the hydraulic brake hose routing
bracket and the speed sensor cable routing bracket
from the strut damper brackets (Fig. 41).
Fig. 40 Strut Assembly Leakage Inspection (Typical)
1 - DUST BOOT
2 - STRUT SHAFT
3 - STRUT FLUID RESERVOIR
4 - INSPECT THIS AREA FOR EVIDENCE OF EXCESSIVE FLUID
LEAKAGE
Fig. 41 Brake Hose And Speed Sensor Cable
Routing
1 - STRUT DAMPER
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CABLE
3 - ROUTING BRACKET
4 - HYDRAULIC BRAKE HOSE
5 - ATTACHING BOLT
6 - ROUTING BRACKET
2 - 20 FRONTRS
STRUT (Continued)

CAUTION: When removing the nut from the stud of
the stabilizer bar link, do not allow the stud to
rotate in it's socket. Hold the stud from rotating by
placing an open-end wrench on the flat machined
into the stud (Fig. 42).
(5) Remove the stabilizer bar link from the bracket
on the strut assembly (Fig. 42). To do so, place an
open-end wrench on the flat machined into the link's
mounting stud, then remove the nut while holding
the wrench in place. Push the stud out of the
bracket.
CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during removal. Remove nuts while holding bolts
stationary in the steering knuckles.
(6) Remove the 2 strut assembly clevis bracket to
steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 43).
(7) Remove the 3 nuts attaching the strut assem-
bly upper mount to the strut tower (Fig. 44) and
remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.
(8) To disassemble the strut assembly, (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/STRUT - DISASSEMBLY).
DISASSEMBLY - STRUT ASSEMBLY
The strut assembly must be removed from the
vehicle for it to be disassembled and assembled.
For the disassembly and assembly of the strut
assembly, use of Strut Spring Compressor, Pentastar
Service Equipment (PSE) tool W-7200, or the equiva-
lent, is recommended to compress the coil spring.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions closely.WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE STRUT SHAFT
NUT BEFORE THE COIL SPRING IS COMPRESSED.
THE COIL SPRING IS HELD UNDER PRESSURE
AND MUST BE COMPRESSED, REMOVING SPRING
TENSION FROM THE UPPER MOUNT AND PIVOT
BEARING, BEFORE THE SHAFT NUT IS REMOVED.
Fig. 42 Stabilizer Bar Link To Strut Attachment
1 - NUT
2 - STRUT
3 - STABILIZER BAR LINK
Fig. 43 Strut Damper Attachment To Steering
Knuckle
1 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
2 - ATTACHING BOLTS
3 - TIE ROD END
4 - ROTOR
5 - STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 44 Strut Assembly To Strut Tower Attaching
Nuts (Typical)
1 - WINDSHIELD WIPER MODULE
2 - STRUT TOWER
3 - STRUT MOUNT ATTACHING BOLTS
4 - UPPER STRUT MOUNT
RSFRONT2-21
STRUT (Continued)

(1) Install strut assembly into strut tower, aligning
and installing the 3 studs on the upper strut mount
into the holes in shock tower. Install the 3 upper
strut mount attaching nut/washer assemblies (Fig.
44). Then using a crow foot. tighten the 3 attaching
nuts to a torque of 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during installation. Install nuts while holding bolts
stationary in the steering knuckles.
NOTE: The strut clevis-to-steering knuckle bolts are
installed differently on each side of the vehicle. Left
hand side bolts are to be installed from vehicle rear
to front. Right side bolts are to be installed from
vehicle front to rear.
(2) Align strut assembly with steering knuckle.
Position arm of steering knuckle into strut assembly
clevis bracket. Align the strut assembly clevis
bracket mounting holes with the steering knuckle
mounting holes. Install the 2 strut assembly to steer-
ing knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 43).If strut assem-
bly is attached to steering knuckle using a cam
bolt, the cam bolt must be installed in the lower
slotted hole on strut clevis bracket.Tighten the
strut clevis-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts to atorque of 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) plus an additional 1/4
(90É) turn after specified torque is met.
(3) Install the stabilizer bar link mounting stud
through the bracket on the strut assembly (Fig. 42).
CAUTION: When installing the nut on the mounting
stud of the stabilizer bar link, do not allow the stud
to rotate in it's socket. Hold the stud from rotating
by placing an open-end wrench on the flat
machined into the stud (Fig. 42).
(4) Hand thread the nut on the end of the stabi-
lizer bar link stud. Hold the stud from turning by
placing an open-end wrench on the flat machined
into the link's mounting stud, then tighten the nut
while holding the wrench in place (Fig. 42). Tighten
the nut to a torque of 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the hydraulic brake hose and speed sen-
sor cable routing brackets on the strut assembly
brackets (Fig. 41). Tighten the routing bracket
attaching bolts to a torque of 13 N´m (10 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the wheel/tire assembly on the vehicle.
(7) Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud
nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to
half specification. Then repeat the tightening
sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N´m (100
ft. lbs.).
RSFRONT2-25
STRUT (Continued)

WHEEL ALIGNMENT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION...........................46
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................49
SUSPENSION AND STEERING............49STANDARD PROCEDURE..................51
WHEEL ALIGNMENT....................51
CURB HEIGHT MEASUREMENT...........54
SPECIFICATIONS........................55
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Vehicle wheel alignment is the positioning of all
interrelated front and rear suspension angles. These
angles affect the handling and steering of the vehicle
when it is in motion. Proper wheel alignment is
essential for efficient steering, good directional stabil-
ity, and proper tire wear.
The method of checking a vehicle's front and rear
wheel alignment varies depending on the manufac-
turer and type of equipment used. The manufactur-
er's instructions should always be followed to ensure
accuracy of the alignment, except when
DaimlerChrysler Corporation's wheel alignment spec-
ifications differ.
On this vehicle, the suspension angles that can be
adjusted are as follows:
²Front Camber (with camber bolt package and
standard procedure)
²Front Toe
Check the wheel alignment and make all wheel
alignment adjustments with the vehicle standing at
its proper curb height specification. Curb height is
the normal riding height of the vehicle. It is mea-
sured from a certain point on the vehicle to the
ground or a designated area while the vehicle is sit-
ting on a flat, level surface. Refer to Curb Height
Measurement in this section for additional informa-
tion.
Typical wheel alignment angles and measurements
are described in the following paragraphs.
CAMBER
Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of
the tire and wheel assembly (Fig. 1). Camber is mea-
sured in degrees of angle relative to a true vertical
line. Camber is a tire wearing angle.
²Excessive negative camber will cause tread wear
at the inside of the tire.
²Excessive positive camber will cause tread wear
on the outside of the tire.CROSS CAMBER
Cross camber is the difference between left and
right camber. To achieve the cross camber reading,
subtract the right side camber reading from the left.
For example, if the left camber is +0.3É and the right
camber is 0.0É, the cross camber would be +0.3É.
Fig. 1 Camber
1 - WHEELS TILTED OUT AT TOP
2 - WHEELS TILTED IN AT TOP
2 - 46 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS

CASTER
Caster is the forward or rearward tilt of the steer-
ing knuckle in reference to the position of the upper
and lower ball joints. Caster is measured in degrees
of angle relative to a true vertical center line. This
line is viewed from the side of the tire and wheel
assembly (Fig. 2).
²Forward tilt (upper ball joint ahead of lower)
results in a negative caster angle.
²Rearward tilt (upper ball joint trailing lower)
results in a positive caster angle.
Although caster does not affect tire wear, a caster
imbalance between the two front wheels may cause
the vehicle to lead to the side with the least positive
caster.
CROSS CASTER
Cross caster is the difference between left and
right caster.
TOE
Toe is the inward or outward angle of the wheels
as viewed from above the vehicle (Fig. 3).
²Toe-in is produced when the front edges of the
wheels on the same axle are closer together than the
rear edges.
²Toe-out is produced when the front edges of the
wheels on the same axle are farther apart than the
rear edges.Toe-in and toe-out can occur at the front wheels
and the rear wheels.
Toe is measured in degrees or inches. The mea-
surement identifies the amount that the front of the
wheels point inward (toe-in) or outward (toe-out). Toe
is measured at the spindle height. Zero toe means
the front and rear edges of the wheels on the same
axle are equally distant.
TOE-OUT ON TURNS
Toe-out on turns is the relative positioning of the
front wheels while steering through a turn (Fig. 4).
This compensates for each front wheel's turning
radius. As the vehicle encounters a turn, the out-
board wheel must travel in a larger radius circle
than the inboard wheel. The steering system is
designed to make each wheel follow its particular
radius circle. To accomplish this, the front wheels
must progressively toe outward as the steering is
turned from center. This eliminates tire scrubbing
Fig. 2 Caster
Fig. 3 Toe
1 - TOE-IN
2 - TOE-OUT
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-47
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

and undue tire wear when steering a vehicle through
a turn.
DYNAMIC TOE PATTERN
Dynamic toe pattern is the inward and outward toe
movement of the front and rear tires through the
suspension's jounce and rebound travel. As the vehi-
cle's suspension moves up and down, the toe pattern
varies. Toe pattern is critical in controlling the direc-
tional stability of the vehicle while in motion. Front
and rear dynamic toe pattern is preset by the factory
at the time the vehicle is assembled.
It is not necessary to check or adjust front or rear
dynamic toe pattern when doing a normal wheel
alignment. The only time dynamic toe pattern needs
to be checked or adjusted is if the frame of the vehi-
cle has been damaged.
STEERING AXIS INCLINATION (S. A. I.)
Steering axis inclination is the angle between a
true vertical line starting at the center of the tire at
the road contact point and a line drawn through the
center of the upper ball joint (or strut) and the lower
ball joint (Fig. 5). S.A.I. is built into the vehicle and
is not an adjustable angle. If S.A.I. is not within
specifications, a bent or damaged suspension compo-
nent may be the cause.
INCLUDED ANGLE (I. A.)
Included angle is the sum of the S.A.I. angle plus
or minus the camber angle, depending on whether or
not the wheel has positive or negative camber (Fig.
5). If camber is positive, add the camber angle to the
S.A.I. angle. If camber is negative, subtract the cam-
ber angle from the S.A.I. angle. Included angle is not
adjustable, but can be used to diagnose a frame mis-
alignment or bent suspension component (spindle,
strut).
THRUST ANGLE
Thrust angle is the averaged direction the rear
wheels are pointing in relation to the vehicle's center
line (Fig. 6). The presence of negative or positive
thrust angle causes the rear tires to track improperly
to the left or right of the front tires (dog tracking).
²Negative thrust angle means the rear tires are
tracking to the left of the front tires.
²Positive thrust angle means the rear tires are
tracking to the right of the front tires.
Improper tracking can cause undue tire wear, a
lead or pull and a crooked steering wheel. Excessive
thrust angle can usually be corrected by adjusting
the rear wheel toe so that each wheel has one-half of
the total toe measurement.
Fig. 4 Toe-Out On Turns
1 - TOE-OUT ON TURNS
Fig. 5 S.A.I. and I.A.
1 - S.A.I.
2 - CAMBER
3 - I.A.
2 - 48 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION AND STEERING
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Front End Whine On Turns 1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
Front End Growl Or
Grinding On Turns1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Engine mount grounding 2. Check for motor mount hitting frame
rail and reposition engine as required
3. Worn or broken C/V joint 3. Replace C/V joint
4. Loose wheel lug nuts 4. Verify wheel lug nut torque
5. Incorrect wheel alignment 5. Check and reset wheel alignment
6. Worn tires 6. Replace tires
7. Front strut pin in upper strut mount 7. Replace the front strut upper mount
and bearing
Front End Clunk Or Snap
On Turns1. Loose lug nuts 1. Verify wheel lug nut torque
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
3. Worn or loose tie rod 3. Tighten or replace tie rod end
4. Worn or loose ball joint 4. Tighten or replace ball joint
5. Worn/loose control arm bushing 5. Replace control arm bushing
6. Loose stabilizer bar. 6. Tighten stabilizer bar to specified
torque
Fig. 6 Thrust Angle
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-49
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
7. Loose strut mount to body
attachment7. Tighten strut attachment to specified
torque
8. Loose crossmember bolts 8. Tighten crossmember bolts to
specified torque
Front End Whine With
Vehicle Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
4. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings4. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Growl Or
Grinding With Vehicle
Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Engine mount grounding 1. Reposition engine as required
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
Front End Whine When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings1. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Clunk When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or broken engine mount 1. Replace engine mount
2. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings2. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
3. Loose lug nuts 3. Verify wheel lug nut torque
4. Worn or broken C/V joint 4. Replace C/V joint
5. Worn or loose ball joint 5. Tighten or replace ball joint
6. Worn or loose control arm bushing 6. Replace control arm bushing
7. Loose crossmember bolts 7. Tighten crossmember bolts to
specified torque
8. Worn tie rod end 8. Replace tie rod end
Road Wander 1. Incorrect tire pressure 1. Inflate tires to recommended pressure
2. Incorrect front or rear wheel toe 2. Check and reset wheel toe
3. Worn wheel bearings 3. Replace wheel bearing
4. Worn control arm bushings 4. Replace control arm bushing
5. Excessive friction in steering gear 5. Replace steering gear
6. Excessive friction in steering shaft
coupling6. Replace steering coupler
7. Excessive friction in strut upper
bearing7. Replace strut bearing
Lateral Pull 1. Unequal tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Radial tire lead 2. Perform lead correction procedure
3. Incorrect front wheel camber 3. Check and reset front wheel camber
4. Power steering gear imbalance 4. Replace power steering gear
5. Wheel braking 5. Correct braking condition causing
lateral pull
2 - 50 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Excessive Steering Free
Play1. Incorrect Steering Gear Adjustment 1. Adjust Or Replace Steering Gear
2. Worn or loose tie rod ends 2. Replace or tighten tie rod ends
3. Loose steering gear mounting bolts 3. Tighten steering gear bolts to specified
torque
4. Loose or worn steering shaft coupler 4. Replace steering shaft coupler
Excessive Steering Effort 1. Low tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Lack of lubricant in steering gear 2. Replace steering gear
3. Low power steering fluid level 3. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
correct level
4. Loose power steering pump drive
belt4. Correctly adjust power steering pump
drive belt
5. Lack of lubricant in ball joints 5. Lubricate or replace ball joints
6. Steering gear malfunction 6. Replace steering gear
7. Lack of lubricant in steering coupler 7. Replace steering coupler
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
PRE-WHEEL ALIGNMENT INSPECTION
Before any attempt is made to change or correct
the wheel alignment, the following inspection and
necessary corrections must be made to ensure proper
alignment.
(1) Verify that the fuel tank is full of fuel. If the
tank is not full, the reduction in weight will affect
the curb height of the vehicle and the alignment
angles.
(2) The passenger and luggage compartments of
the vehicle should be free of any load that is not fac-
tory equipment.
(3) Check the tires on the vehicle. All tires must be
the same size and in good condition with approxi-
mately the same amount of tread wear. Inflate all
the tires to the recommended air pressure.
(4) Check the front wheel and tire assemblies for
excessive radial runout.
(5) Inspect lower ball joints and all steering link-
age for looseness, binding, wear or damage. Repair as
necessary.
(6) Check suspension fasteners for proper torque
and retighten as necessary.
(7) Inspect all suspension component rubber bush-
ings for signs of wear or deterioration. Replace any
faulty bushings or components before aligning the
vehicle.
(8) Check the vehicle's curb height to verify it is
within specifications. Refer to Curb Height Measure-
ment.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SETUP
(1) Position the vehicle on an alignment rack.
(2) Install all required alignment equipment on
the vehicle per the alignment equipment manufactur-
er's instructions. On this vehicle, a four-wheel align-
ment is recommended.
NOTE: Prior to reading the vehicle's alignment
readouts, the front and rear of vehicle should be
jounced. Induce jounce (rear first, then front) by
grasping the center of the bumper and jouncing
each end of vehicle an equal number of times. The
bumper should always be released when vehicle is
at the bottom of the jounce cycle.
(3) Read the vehicle's current front and rear align-
ment settings. Compare the vehicle's current align-
ment settings to the vehicle specifications for camber,
caster and toe-in. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
WHEEL ALIGNMENT - SPECIFICATIONS)
(4) If front camber and caster are not within spec-
ifications, proceed to CAMBER AND CASTER below.
If caster and camber are within specifications, pro-
ceed to TOE which can be found following CAMBER
AND CASTER. Rear camber, caster and toe are not
adjustable. If found not to be within specifications,
reinspect for damaged suspension or body compo-
nents and replace as necessary.
CAMBER AND CASTER
Camber and caster settings on this vehicle are
determined at the time the vehicle is designed, by
the location of the vehicle's suspension components.
This is referred to as NET BUILD. The result is no
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-51
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)