Slow CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2004 Service Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHRYSLER, Model Year: 2004, Model line: VOYAGER, Model: CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2004Pages: 2585, PDF Size: 62.54 MB
Page 68 of 2585

NOTE: Before releasing the tension the compressor
has on the spring, using the following figure as ref-
erence (Fig. 50), make sure the upper spring seat,
coil spring and strut clevis bracket are all lined up
properly (within 5É of one another).
(12) Slowly release the tension from the coil spring
by backing off the compressor drive fully. As the ten-
sion is relieved, make sure the upper mount, pivot
bearing and upper seat are align properly. Remove
the clamp from the lower end of the coil spring and
strut. Push back the spring compressor upper and
lower hooks, then remove the strut assembly from
the spring compressor.
(13) Install strut assembly on the vehicle. (Refer to
2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/STRUT - INSTALLA-
TION)
INSTALLATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Front strut coil springs are side-oriented.
When installing a strut assembly, make sure the
strut being installed has the correct coil spring for
that side of the vehicle. Springs on the left side of
the vehicle have a left-hand wind top-to-bottom
while springs on the right side have a right-hand
wind top-to-bottom (Fig. 49). Do not interchange the
two sides.(1) Install strut assembly into strut tower, aligning
and installing the 3 studs on the upper strut mount
into the holes in shock tower. Install the 3 upper
strut mount attaching nut/washer assemblies (Fig.
43). Then using a crow foot. tighten the 3 attaching
nuts to a torque of 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during installation. Install nuts while holding bolts
stationary in the steering knuckles.
NOTE: The strut clevis-to-steering knuckle bolts are
installed differently on each side of the vehicle. Left
hand side bolts are to be installed from vehicle rear
to front. Right side bolts are to be installed from
vehicle front to rear.
(2) Align strut assembly with steering knuckle.
Position arm of steering knuckle into strut assembly
clevis bracket. Align the strut assembly clevis
bracket mounting holes with the steering knuckle
mounting holes. Install the 2 strut assembly to steer-
ing knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 42).If strut assem-
bly is attached to steering knuckle using a cam
bolt, the cam bolt must be installed in the lower
slotted hole on strut clevis bracket.Tighten the
strut clevis-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts to a
torque of 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) plus an additional 1/4
(90É) turn after specified torque is met.
(3) Install the stabilizer bar link mounting stud
through the bracket on the strut assembly (Fig. 41).
CAUTION: When installing the nut on the mounting
stud of the stabilizer bar link, do not allow the stud
to rotate in it's socket. Hold the stud from rotating
by placing an open-end wrench on the flat
machined into the stud (Fig. 41).
(4) Hand thread the nut on the end of the stabi-
lizer bar link stud. Hold the stud from turning by
placing an open-end wrench on the flat machined
into the link's mounting stud, then tighten the nut
while holding the wrench in place (Fig. 41). Tighten
the nut to a torque of 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the hydraulic brake hose and speed sen-
sor cable routing brackets on the strut assembly
brackets (Fig. 40). Tighten the routing bracket
attaching bolts to a torque of 13 N´m (10 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the wheel/tire assembly on the vehicle.
(7) Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud
nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to
half specification. Then repeat the tightening
sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N´m (100
ft. lbs.).
Fig. 50 Components Lined Up
1 - IMAGINARY VERTICAL LINE
2 - CLEVIS BRACKET
3 - END OF COIL SPRING (RIGHT SIDE ONLY)
4 - NOTCH IN UPPER SPRING SEAT
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-25
STRUT (Continued)
Page 72 of 2585

BUSHINGS
REMOVAL - LEAF SPRING FRONT BUSHING
(1) Raise vehicle on frame-contact hoist as follows:
(a) Position the hoist arm supporting the corner
of the vehicle to be serviced against a block of wood
placed on the body sill as shown (Fig. 3).
(b) Position the remaining hoist arms at each
corner of the vehicle in the normal fashion. (Refer
to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(c) Raise the vehicle to a comfortable working
level.
(2)
Position an under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack under rear axle toward the side needing bush-
ing replacement. Jack pad should just contact axle.
(3) Remove shock absorber lower mounting bolt.
NOTE: If shock absorber bolt deflects upward dur-
ing removal, raise axle by adjusting support jack. If
shock absorber bolt deflects downward during
removal, lower axle by adjusting support jack (or by
pulling on axle).
(4) Remove four bolts securing leaf spring front
mounting bracket to the body (Fig. 3).
(5) Using jack,slowlylower rear axle, permitting
the forward end of rear spring to hang down. Lower
it enough to allow access to spring pivot bolt. It may
be necessary to place a wooden block between the
spring and vehicle to hold forward end of the spring
in place.(6) Remove leaf spring forward pivot bolt, then
remove mounting bracket.
(7) Straighten the retainer tabs on the bushing
(Fig. 4).
(8) Place Remover/Installer, Special Tool 8459 on
leaf spring and bushing as shown (Fig. 5) and tighten
Set Screw securing Remover Plate to tool threaded
shaft.
Fig. 3 LIFTING POINT AND SPRING MOUNT
1 - BODY SILL AREA
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - SPRING MOUNTING BRACKET
4 - LEAF SPRING
5 - HOIST LIFT ARM
6 - WOODEN BLOCK
Fig. 4 STRAIGHTENED RETAINING TABS
1 - SPRING EYE
2 - RETAINING TABS
Fig. 5 TOOL 8459 MOUNTED FOR BUSHING
REMOVAL
1 - BUSHING
2 - BEARING
3 - WASHER
4 - NUT
5 - BODY (8459-1)
6 - PIN
7 - REMOVER PLATE (8459-2)
8 - SET SCREW
RSREAR SUSPENSION2-29
Page 82 of 2585

(6) Using the jack standsslowlylower the rear
axle, permitting the rear springs to hang free.
(7) Loosen and remove the 4 bolts at the front
mount of the rear leaf spring (Fig. 26).
(8) Loosen and remove the 2 bolts and the 2 pin
nuts from the spring shackle for the rear leaf spring
(Fig. 29). Then remove the inner half of the spring
shackle from the outer half hanger of the spring
hanger and the spring.
(9) Remove the rear leaf spring from the outer half
of the spring shackle.
(10) Remove the leaf spring from the vehicle.(11) Loosen and remove the pivot bolt from the
front mount of the rear leaf spring. (Fig. 30).INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Pivot bolt must face inboard to prevent
structural damage during installation of spring.
(1) Install the front eyelet of the rear leaf spring
into the spring mount. Install the pivot bolt and nut.
Do not tighten the pivot bolt at this time.
(2) Position the front spring mount for the rear
leaf spring against the floor pan of the vehicle.
Install the 4 mounting bolts for the front spring
Fig. 26 LIFTING POINT AND SPRING MOUNT
1 - BODY SILL AREA
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - SPRING MOUNTING BRACKET
4 - LEAF SPRING
5 - HOIST LIFT ARM
6 - WOODEN BLOCK
Fig. 27 Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolt
1 - SHOCK BOLT
Fig. 28 Axle Plate Bolts
1 - LEAF SPRING
2 - AXLE PLATE BOLTS (4)
3 - AXLE PLATE
4 - AXLE
Fig. 29 All-Wheel-Drive Rear Suspension
1 - SHACKLE
2 - REAR MOUNT (HANGER)
3 - LEAF SPRING (MULTI-LEAF)
4 - AWD REAR AXLE
RSREAR SUSPENSION2-39
SPRING - AWD (Continued)
Page 83 of 2585

mount (Fig. 26). Tighten the 4 mounting bolts to a
torque of 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the rear of the leaf spring onto the outer
half of the rear shackle. Install the inner half of the
rear hanger. Install the pin nuts and bolts on the
rear shackle,but do not tighten at this time.
(4) Raise axle assembly into correct position with
axle centered under spring locator post.
(5) Install axle plate bolts (Fig. 28). Tighten bolts
to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Install shock absorber bolts.Do not tighten
at this time.
(7) Lower the vehicle and remove hoist arms and
block of wood from under vehicle.
CAUTION: The following sequence must be fol-
lowed when tightening the pin nuts on the rear
hanger for the rear leaf spring. First the hanger pin
nuts must be tightened to the specified torque
shown below. Then tighten the retaining bolts for
the inner to outer half of the spring hanger to the
torque specification listed below. This sequence
must be followed to properly seat the bushings into
the springs and to avoid bending the spring hanger.
(8) Tighten the spring front pivot bolt to 156 N´m
(115 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Tighten rear spring shackle pin nuts to 61 N´m
(45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Tighten rear spring shackle inner to outer
half retaining bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Tighten the lower shock absorber mounting
bolt to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
SPRING - CARGO
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on frame-contact hoist as follows:
(a) Position the hoist arm supporting the corner
of the vehicle to be serviced against a block of wood
placed on the body sill as shown (Fig. 26).
(b) Position the remaining hoist arms at each
corner of the vehicle in the normal fashion. (Refer
to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(c) Raise the vehicle to a comfortable working
level.
(2) Position an under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack under rear axle toward the side needing
spring replacement. Jack pad should just contact
axle.
NOTE: If shock absorber bolt deflects upward dur-
ing removal, raise axle by adjusting support jack. If
shock absorber bolt deflects downward during
removal, lower axle by adjusting support jack (or by
pulling on axle).
(3) Begin removal of the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt (Fig. 27).
(4) Using 2 jack stands positioned under the outer
ends of the axle, raise the axle enough to remove the
weight of the axle from the rear springs.
(5) Loosen and remove the axle plate bolts from
the rear axle (Fig. 28).
(6) Using the jack standsslowlylower the rear
axle, permitting the rear springs to hang free.
(7) Loosen and remove the 4 bolts at the front
mount of the rear leaf spring (Fig. 26).
(8) Loosen and remove the nuts from the spring
hanger for the rear leaf spring (Fig. 35).
(9) Remove the hanger plate from the hanger and
remove the spring from the spring hanger (Fig. 35).
(10) Remove the leaf spring from the vehicle.
(11) Loosen and remove the pivot bolt from the
front mount of the rear leaf spring. (Fig. 30).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Pivot bolt must face inboard to prevent
structural damage during installation of spring.
(1) Install the front eyelet of the rear leaf spring
into the spring mount. Install the pivot bolt and nut.
Do not tighten the pivot bolt at this time.
(2) Position the front spring mount for the rear
leaf spring against the floor pan of the vehicle.
Install the 4 mounting bolts for the front spring
mount (Fig. 26). Tighten the 4 mounting bolts to a
torque of 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 30 Leaf Spring Front Mount (Typical)
1 - LEAF SPRING
2 - SPRING MOUNT
2 - 40 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
SPRING - AWD (Continued)
Page 85 of 2585

(4) Using 2 jack stands positioned under the outer
ends of the axle, raise the axle enough to remove the
weight of the axle from the rear springs.
(5) Loosen and remove the spring plate bolts from
the rear axle (Fig. 33).
(6) Remove the spring plate from the rear axle and
the leaf spring (Fig. 34).
(7) Using the jack standsslowlylower the rear
axle, permitting the rear springs to hang free.
(8) Loosen and remove the 4 bolts securing the
front mount of the leaf spring to the vehicle (Fig. 31).(9) Loosen and remove the nuts from the spring
hanger (Fig. 35) for the rear leaf spring. Then
remove the hanger plate from the hanger and remove
the spring from the spring hanger (Fig. 35).
(10) Remove the leaf spring from the vehicle.
(11) Loosen and remove the pivot bolt from the
front mount of the rear leaf spring. Remove mount.
INSTALLATION
(1) Assemble front spring mount to front of spring
eye and install pivot bolt and nut.Do not tighten
at this time.
CAUTION: Pivot bolt must face inboard to prevent
structural damage during installation of spring.
(2) Raise front of spring and install four mounting
bolts (Fig. 31). Tighten bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Install rear of spring onto rear spring shackle.
Install shackle plate and nuts.Do not tighten at
this time
(4) Verify lower leaf spring isolator is in position.
Fig. 33 Spring Plate Bolts
1 - SPRING PLATE
Fig. 34 Spring Plate
1 - SPRING PLATE
Fig. 35 Rear Spring Hanger
1 - SHACKLE PLATE
2 - SPRING HANGER
2 - 42 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
SPRING - FWD (Continued)
Page 86 of 2585

(5) Raise axle into correct position on leaf spring
with axle centered under spring locator post (Fig.
36).
(6) Verify that the leaf spring isolator is correctly
positioned in the spring plate.
(7) Install spring plate in position on the spring
(Fig. 33).
(8) Install spring plate bolts (Fig. 33). Tighten
bolts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install lower shock absorber bolt.Do not
tighten at this time.
(10) Remove jack under axle.
(11) Lower the vehicle and remove hoist arms and
block of wood from under vehicle.
CAUTION: The following sequence must be fol-
lowed when tightening the pin nuts on the rear
hanger for the rear leaf spring. First the hanger pin
nuts must be tightened to the specified torque
shown below. Then tighten the retaining bolts for
the inner to outer half of the spring hanger to the
torque specification listed below. This sequence
must be followed to properly seat the bushings into
the springs and to avoid bending the spring hanger.
(12) Tighten the spring front pivot bolt to 156 N´m
(115 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Tighten rear spring shackle pin nuts to 61
N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(14) Tighten the lower shock absorber mounting
bolt to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.SPRING MOUNTS - FRONT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on frame-contact hoist as follows:
(a) Position the hoist arm supporting the corner
of the vehicle to be serviced against a block of wood
placed on the body sill as shown (Fig. 37).
(b) Position the remaining hoist arms at each
corner of the vehicle in the normal fashion. (Refer
to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(c) Raise the vehicle to a comfortable working
level.
(2) Position an under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack under rear axle toward the side needing
bushing replacement. Jack pad should just contact
axle.
(3) Remove shock absorber lower mounting bolt.
NOTE: If shock absorber bolt deflects upward dur-
ing removal, raise axle by adjusting support jack. If
shock absorber bolt deflects downward during
removal, lower axle by adjusting support jack (or by
pulling on axle).
(4) Remove four bolts securing leaf spring front
mounting bracket to the body (Fig. 37).
(5) Using jack,slowlylower rear axle, permitting
the forward end of rear spring to hang down. Lower
it enough to allow access to spring pivot bolt. It may
Fig. 36 Leaf Spring Locator Post
1 - LEAF SPRING ISOLATOR
2 - LEAF SPRING
3 - LOCATOR POST
Fig. 37 LIFTING POINT AND SPRING MOUNT
1 - BODY SILL AREA
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - SPRING MOUNTING BRACKET
4 - LEAF SPRING
5 - HOIST LIFT ARM
6 - WOODEN BLOCK
RSREAR SUSPENSION2-43
SPRING - FWD (Continued)
Page 124 of 2585

²Engine
²Transmission
²Exhaust
²Propeller shaft (vibration)
²Vehicle body (drumming)
Driveline module noises are normally divided into
two categories: gear noise or bearing noise. A thor-
ough and careful inspection should be completed to
determine the actual source of the noise before
replacing the driveline module.
The rubber mounting bushings help to dampen-out
driveline module noise when properly installed.
Inspect to confirm that no metal contact exists
between the driveline module case and the body. The
complete isolation of noise to one area requires
expertise and experience. Identifying certain types of
vehicle noise baffles even the most capable techni-
cians. Often such practices as:
²Increase tire inflation pressure to eliminate tire
noise.
²Listen for noise at varying speeds with different
driveline load conditions
²Swerving the vehicle from left to right to detect
wheel bearing noise.
All driveline module assemblies produce noise to a
certain extent. Slight carrier noise that is noticeable
only at certain speeds or isolated situations should be
considered normal. Carrier noise tends to peak at a
variety of vehicle speeds. Noise isNOT ALWAYSan
indication of a problem within the carrier.
TIRE NOISE
Tire noise is often mistaken for driveline module
noise. Tires that are unbalanced, worn unevenly or
are worn in a saw-tooth manner are usually noisy.
They often produce a noise that appears to originate
in the driveline module.
Tire noise changes with different road surfaces, but
driveline module noise does not. Inflate all four tires
with approximately 20 psi (138 kPa) more than the
recommended inflation pressure (for test purposes
only). This will alter noise caused by tires, but will
not affect noise caused by the differential. Rear axle
noise usually ceases when coasting at speeds less
than 30 mph (48 km/h); however, tire noise contin-
ues, but at a lower frequency, as the speed is
reduced.
After test has been completed lower tire pressure
back to recommended pressure.
GEAR NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND RING GEAR)
Abnormal gear noise is rare and is usually caused
by scoring on the ring gear and drive pinion. Scoring
is the result of insufficient or incorrect lubricant in
the carrier housing.Abnormal gear noise can be easily recognized. It
produces a cycling tone that will be very pronounced
within a given speed range. The noise can occur dur-
ing one or more of the following drive conditions:
²Drive
²Road load
²Float
²Coast
Abnormal gear noise usually tends to peak within
a narrow vehicle speed range or ranges. It is usually
more pronounced between 30 to 40 mph (48 to 64
km/h) and 50 to 60 mph (80 to 96 km/h). When objec-
tionable gear noise occurs, note the driving condi-
tions and the speed range.
BEARING NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND
DIFFERENTIAL)
Defective bearings produce a rough growl that is
constant in pitch and varies with the speed of vehi-
cle. Being aware of this will enable a technician to
separate bearing noise from gear noise.
Drive pinion bearing noise that results from defec-
tive or damaged bearings can usually be identified by
its constant, rough sound. Drive pinion front bearing
is usually more pronounced during a coast condition.
Drive pinion rear bearing noise is more pronounced
during a drive condition. The drive pinion bearings
are rotating at a higher rate of speed than either the
differential side bearings or the axle shaft bearing.
Differential side bearing noise will usually produce
a constant, rough sound. The sound is much lower in
frequency than the noise caused by drive pinion bear-
ings.
Bearing noise can best be detected by road testing
the vehicle on a smooth road (black top). However, it
is easy to mistake tire noise for bearing noise. If a
doubt exists, the tire treads should be examined for
irregularities that often causes a noise that resem-
bles bearing noise.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION NOISE
Sometimes noise that appears to be in the driv-
eline module assembly is actually caused by the
engine or the transmission. To identify the true
source of the noise, note the approximate vehicle
speed and/or RPM when the noise is most noticeable.
Stop the vehicle next to a flat brick or cement wall
(this will help reflect the sound). Place the transaxle
inNEUTRAL. Accelerate the engine slowly up
through the engine speed that matches the vehicle
speed noted when the noise occurred. If the same
noise is produced, it usually indicates that the noise
is being caused by the engine or transaxle.
RSREAR DRIVELINE MODULE3-25
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE (Continued)
Page 155 of 2585

NOTE: The following wheel sequence should be
used when bleeding the brake hydraulic system.
The use of this wheel sequence will ensure ade-
quate removal of all trapped air from the brake
hydraulic system.
²Left Rear Wheel
²Right Front Wheel
²Right Rear Wheel
²Left Front Wheel
NOTE: When bleeding the brake system, some air
may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far
upstream, as much as ten feet from the bleeder
screw (Fig. 2). Therefore, it is essential to have a
fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when
bleeding the brakes to ensure all the air gets out.
The brakes may be manually bled or pressure bled.
Refer to the appropriate following procedure.
MANUAL BLEEDING PROCEDURE
NOTE: Correct manual bleeding of the brakes
hydraulic system will require the aid of a helper.
NOTE: To adequately bleed the brakes using the
manual bleeding procedure the rear brakes must be
correctly adjusted. Prior to the manual bleeding of
the brake hydraulic system, correctly adjust the
rear brakes.
(1) Pump the brake pedal three or four times and
hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
(2) Push the brake pedal toward the floor and hold
it down. Then open the left rear bleeder screw at
least 1 full turn. When the bleeder screw opens the
brake pedal will drop all the way to the floor.CAUTION: ªJust crackingº the bleeder screw often
restricts fluid flow, allowing only a slow, weak fluid
discharge of fluid. This practice will NOT get all the
air out. Make sure the bleeder is opened at least 1
full turn when bleeding.
(3) Release the brake pedal onlyafterthe bleeder
screw is closed.
(4) Repeat steps 1 through 3, four or five times, at
each bleeder screw in the proper sequence. This
should pass a sufficient amount of fluid to expel all
the trapped air from the brake system. Be sure to
monitor the fluid level in the master cylinder, so it
stays at a proper level so air will not enter the brake
system through the master cylinder.
(5) Check pedal travel. If pedal travel is excessive
or has not been improved, enough fluid has not
passed through the system to expel all the trapped
air. Continue to bleed system as necessary.
(6) Perform a final adjustment of the rear brake
shoes (when applicable), then test drive vehicle to be
sure brakes are operating correctly and that pedal is
solid.
PRESSURE BLEEDING PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Use bleeder tank Special Tool C-3496-B
or equivalent with Adapter, Special Tool 6921, to
pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding.
Follow pressure bleeder manufacturer's instruc-
tions for use of pressure bleeding equipment.
(1) Install the Adapter Master Cylinder Pressure
Bleed Cap, Special Tool 6921 on the fluid reservoir of
the master cylinder (Fig. 3). Attach the fluid hose
from the pressure bleeder to the fitting on Special
Tool 6921.
(2) Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw
at one wheel and feed the hose into a clear jar con-
taining fresh brake fluid.
(3) Open the left rear wheel bleeder screw at least
one full turnor more to obtain an adequate flow of
brake fluid.
CAUTION: ªJust crackingº the bleeder screw often
restricts fluid flow, allowing only a slow, weak fluid
discharge of fluid. This practice will NOT get all the
air out. Make sure the bleeder is opened at least 1
full turn when bleeding.
(4) After 4 to 8 ounces of brake fluid has been bled
through the hydraulic system, and an air-free flow is
maintained in the hose and jar, this will indicate a
good bleed of the hydraulic system has been
obtained.
(5) Repeat the procedure at all the other remain-
ing bleeder screws.
Fig. 2 Trapped Air In Brake Fluid Line
1 - TRAPPED AIR
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASERS
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
Page 183 of 2585

(4) Using a wooden dowel as a pushrod (Fig. 48),
slowly depress master cylinder pistons, then release
pressure, allowing pistons to return to released posi-
tion. Repeat several times until all air bubbles are
expelled. Make sure fluid level stays above tips of
bleeder tubes in reservoir while bleeding.
(5) Remove bleeder tubes from master cylinder
outlet ports, then plug outlet ports and install fill cap
on reservoir.
(6) Remove master cylinder from vise.
(7) Install master cylinder on vehicle. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - BASE/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MAS-
TER CYLINDER - INSTALLATION)
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LHD
CAUTION: Vacuum in the power brake booster must
be pumped down (removed) before removing mas-
ter cylinder from power brake booster. This is nec-
essary to prevent the power brake booster from
sucking in any contamination as the master cylin-
der is removed. This can be done simply by pump-
ing the brake pedal, with the vehicle's engine not
running, until a firm feeling brake pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump brake pedal
until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
(2) Disconnect negative battery terminal.(3) Disconnect positive battery terminal.
(4) Remove battery shield.
(5) Remove nut and clamp securing battery to tray,
remove battery.
(6) Thoroughly clean all surfaces of the brake fluid
reservoir and master cylinder. Use only solvent such
as MopartBrake Parts Cleaner or equivalent.
(7) Remove wiring harness connector from brake
fluid level switch in master cylinder brake fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 49).
(8) Disconnect primary and secondary brake tubes
from master cylinder housing (Fig. 49). Install seal-
ing plugs in the now open brake tube outlet ports.
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder
from the power brake vacuum booster, the master
cylinder and vacuum booster must be thoroughly
cleaned. This must be done to prevent dirt particles
from falling into the power brake vacuum booster.
(9) Clean area where master cylinder assembly
attaches to power brake booster. Use only a solvent
such as MopartBrake Parts Cleaner or equivalent.
(10) Remove two nuts attaching master cylinder to
power brake booster (Fig. 50).
(11) Slide master cylinder straight out of power
brake booster.
CAUTION: A seal on the rear of the master cylinder
is used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
power brake vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on
the master cylinder MUST be replaced whenever the
master cylinder is removed from the power brake
vacuum booster.
Fig. 48 Master Cylinder Set Up For Bleeding
1 - BLEEDER TUBES 8358
2 - WOODEN DOWEL
3 - ADAPTER 8822-2 (USE ONLY ON TRACTION CONTROL
EQUIPPED MASTER CYLINDERS)
4 - ADAPTER 8822-2 (USE ONLY ON TRACTION CONTROL
EQUIPPED MASTER CYLINDERS)
Fig. 49 MASTER CYLINDER AND BOOSTER
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BOOSTER IDENTIFICATION LABEL
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH CONNECTOR
4 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
5 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
6 - MASTER CYLINDER
5 - 36 BRAKES - BASERS
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)
Page 223 of 2585

tioning valve. The EVBP system uses the ABS sys-
tem to control the slip of the rear wheels in partial
braking range. The braking force of the rear wheels
is controlled electronically by using the inlet and out-
let valves located in the integrated control unit
(ICU).
EVBP activation is invisible to the customer since
there is no pump motor noise or brake pedal feed-
back.
DESCRIPTION - TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM
Traction control reduces wheel slip and maintains
traction at the driving wheels at speeds below 56
km/h (35 mph) when road surfaces are slippery. The
traction control system reduces wheel slip by braking
the wheel that is losing traction.
HYDRAULIC SHUTTLE VALVES
Two pressure relief hydraulic shuttle valves are
included on vehicles with traction control. These
valves are located inside the HCU and cannot be ser-
viced separately from the HCU.
TRACTION CONTROL LAMP
The traction control function lamp is located in the
transmission range indicator display of the instru-
ment cluster, displaying TRAC, TRAC OFF or nei-
ther depending on system mode.
The TRAC OFF lamp is controlled by a Traction
Control Off switch that is a momentary contact type
switch. The Traction Control Off switch is located on
the steering column upper shroud.
OPERATION
OPERATION - ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM
There are a few performance characteristics of the
Mark 20e Antilock Brake System that may at first
seem abnormal, but in fact are normal. These char-
acteristics are described below.
NORMAL BRAKING
Under normal braking conditions, the ABS func-
tions the same as a standard base brake system with
a diagonally split master cylinder and conventional
vacuum assist.
ABS BRAKING
ABS operation is available at all vehicle speeds
above 3±5 mph. If a wheel locking tendency is
detected during a brake application, the brake system
enters the ABS mode. During ABS braking, hydraulic
pressure in the four wheel circuits is modulated to
prevent any wheel from locking. Each wheel circuit is
designed with a set of electric solenoids to allow mod-ulation, although for vehicle stability, both rear wheel
solenoids receive the same electrical signal. Wheel
lockup may be perceived at the very end of an ABS
stop and is considered normal.
During an ABS stop, the brakes hydraulic system
is still diagonally split. However, the brake system
pressure is further split into three control channels.
During antilock operation of the vehicle's brake sys-
tem, the front wheels are controlled independently
and are on two separate control channels, and the
rear wheels of the vehicle are controlled together.
The system can build and release pressure at each
wheel, depending on signals generated by the wheel
speed sensors (WSS) at each wheel and received at
the controller antilock brake (CAB).
NOISE AND BRAKE PEDAL FEEL
During ABS braking, some brake pedal movement
may be felt. In addition, ABS braking will create
ticking, popping, or groaning noises heard by the
driver. This is normal and is due to pressurized fluid
being transferred between the master cylinder and
the brakes. If ABS operation occurs during hard
braking, some pulsation may be felt in the vehicle
body due to fore and aft movement of the suspension
as brake pressures are modulated.
At the end of an ABS stop, ABS is turned off when
the vehicle is slowed to a speed of 3±4 mph. There
may be a slight brake pedal drop anytime that the
ABS is deactivated, such as at the end of the stop
when the vehicle speed is less than 3 mph or during
an ABS stop where ABS is no longer required. These
conditions exist when a vehicle is being stopped on a
road surface with patches of ice, loose gravel, or sand
on it. Also, stopping a vehicle on a bumpy road sur-
face activates ABS because of the wheel hop caused
by the bumps.
TIRE NOISE AND MARKS
Although the ABS system prevents complete wheel
lockup, some wheel slip is desired in order to achieve
optimum braking performance. Wheel slip is defined
as follows: 0 percent slip means the wheel is rolling
freely and 100 percent slip means the wheel is fully
locked. During brake pressure modulation, wheel slip
is allowed to reach up to 25±30 percent. This means
that the wheel rolling velocity is 25±30 percent less
than that of a free rolling wheel at a given vehicle
speed. This slip may result in some tire chirping,
depending on the road surface. This sound should not
be interpreted as total wheel lockup.
Complete wheel lockup normally leaves black tire
marks on dry pavement. The ABS will not leave dark
black tire marks since the wheel never reaches a
fully locked condition. However, tire marks may be
noticeable as light patched marks.
5 - 76 BRAKES - ABSRS
BRAKES - ABS (Continued)