check oil CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2005 Repair Manual

(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil
into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cyl-
inder walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Install a new oil filter.
(11) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR OF
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (excluding spark plug
and camshaft bearing cap attaching threads) can be
repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of drilling
out worn or damaged threads, tapping the hole with
a special Heli-Coil Tap, (or equivalent) and installing
an insert into the tapped hole. This brings the hole
back to its original thread size.
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 5).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plugis cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
REMOVAL - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(1) Perform fuel pressure release procedure (Refer
to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(3) Remove air cleaner and hoses.
(4) Disconnect the fuel line from fuel rail (Refer to
14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK
CONNECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Remove the wiper module (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MODULE -
REMOVAL).
(6) Block off heater hoses to the rear heater sys-
tem using pinch-off pliers (if equipped).
(7) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Disconnect the heater hoses.
(9) Remove the radiator upper support crossmem-
ber (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/GRILLE OPEN-
ING REINFORCEMENT - REMOVAL).
(10) Remove the radiator fans (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(11) Disconnect the throttle cables from the throt-
tle body.
(12) Disconnect the MAP, IAC, and TPS electrical
connectors.
Fig. 5 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
9 - 88 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

Remove all gasket material from cylinder head and
block (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE). Be careful not to gouge or scratch the alumi-
num head sealing surface.
Clean all engine oil passages.
INSPECTION
(1) Before cleaning, check for leaks, damage and
cracks.
(2) Clean cylinder head and oil passages.
(3) Check cylinder head for flatness (Fig. 19).
(4) Cylinder head must be flat within:
²Standard dimension = less than 0.05 mm (0.002
inch.)
²Service Limit = 0.2 mm (0.008 inch.)
²Grinding Limit = Maximum of 0.2 mm (0.008
inch.) is permitted.
CAUTION: 0.20 mm (0.008 in.) MAX is a combined
total dimension of the stock removal limit from cyl-
inder head and block top surface (Deck) together.
INSTALLATION - CYLINDER HEAD
(1) Clean all sealing surfaces of engine block and
cylinder heads. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
(2) Position new gasket(s) on engine block (Fig.
20). The left bank gasket is identified with the ªLº
stamped in the exposed area of the gasket located at
front of engine (shown in (Fig. 20)). The right bank
gasket is identified with a ªRº stamped in the
exposed area of the gasket also, but is located at the
rear of the engine.
(3)The cylinder head bolts are torqued using
the torque yield method, they should be exam-
ined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked
down, the bolts must be replaced(Fig. 21).
Fig. 18 DIPSTICK & TUBE
1 - DIPSTICK
2 - BOLT
3 - TUBE
Fig. 19 Checking Cylinder Head FlatnessÐTypical
Fig. 20 Head Gasket Installation
1 - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
2 - LOCATION IDENTIFICATION (L = LEFT BANK, R = RIGHT
BANK)
9 - 104 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

(4) Necking can be checked by holding a scale or
straight edge against the threads. If all the threads
do not contact the scale the bolt should be replaced.
(5) Tighten the cylinder head bolts 1±8 in the
sequence shown in (Fig. 22). Using the 4 step torque
turn method, tighten according to the following val-
ues:
²Step 1: Bolts1±8to61N´m(45ft.lbs.)
²Step 2: Bolts1±8to88N´m(65ft.lbs.)
²Step 3: Bolts1±8(again) to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.)
²Step 4: Bolts1±8turn an additional 1/4 Turn.
(Do not use a torque wrench for this step.)
NOTE: Bolt torque after 1/4 turn should be over 122
N´m (90 ft. lbs.). If not, replace the bolt.
(6) Inspect push rods and replace worn or bent
rods.
(7) Install the push rods.
(8) Install the rocker arm and shaft assemblies.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER
ARMS - INSTALLATION)
(9) Install the cylinder head covers. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)
(10) Install the exhaust manifolds. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/EXHAUST MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION)(11) Install new O-ring on dipstick tube. Install
dipstick tube assembly (Fig. 18).
(12) Install the spark plugs.
(13) Install upper and lower intake manifolds.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANI-
FOLD - INSTALLATION)
(14) Fill the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(15) Connect negative cable to battery.
CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder head covers are made of stamped
steel. The covers are sealed with steel reinforced sil-
icon rubber gaskets. The cylinder head cover uses
rubber isolators at each fastener location (Fig. 23).
NOTE: Due to the tight packaging near the cylinder
head covers, which makes spill clean-up difficult, a
spill during an engine oil change may be misinter-
preted as an oil leak. When investigating an oil leak
in the location of the cylinder head covers and
intake manifold, follow the procedure found in Oil
Leak Diagnosis (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for determining the source of a leak.Fig. 21 Checking Bolts for Stretching (Necking)
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLT
Fig. 22 CYLINDER HEAD TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
Fig. 23 Cylinder Head Cover
1 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
2 - BOLT
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 105
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the valve springs. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/VALVE SPRINGS -
REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the valve stem seal (Fig. 44).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the valve stem seal squarely over the
valve guide, using the valve stem as a guide (Fig.
44). Do not force the seal against top of the valve
guide.
(2) Install the valve spring. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/VALVE SPRINGS - INSTALLA-
TION)
ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron and is a
deep skirt design.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
(1) Used carefully, the cylinder bore resizing hone,
recommended tool C-823 or equivalent, equipped
with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this honing
procedure. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring or scratches. Usually a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done
using a cylinder surfacing hone, recommended tool
C-3501 or equivalent, equipped with 280 grit stones,
if the cylinder bore is straight and round. 20±60
strokes depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Use a light
honing oil.Do not use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits or kerosene.Inspect cylinder walls
after each 20 strokes.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a cross-hatch pattern.
When hone marksintersectat 40-60 degrees, the
cross hatch angle is most satisfactory for proper seat-
ing of rings (Fig. 45).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between
200±300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40±60
degree angle. Faster up and down strokes increase
the cross-hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasive.CAUTION: Ensure all abrasives are removed from
engine parts after honing. It is recommended that a
solution of soap and hot water be used with a
brush and the parts then thoroughly dried. The bore
can be considered clean when it can be wiped
clean with a white cloth and cloth remains clean.
Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Clean cylinder block thoroughly using a suitable
cleaning solvent.
INSPECTION
ENGINE BLOCK
(1) Clean cylinder block thoroughly and check all
core hole plugs for evidence of leaking.
(2) If new core plugs are to be installed, (Refer to 9
- ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE
CORE AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS).
(3) Examine block and cylinder bores for cracks or
fractures.
(4) Check block deck surfaces for flatness. Deck
surface must be within service limit of 0.1 mm (0.004
in.).
CYLINDER BORE
NOTE: The cylinder bores should be measured at
normal room temperature, 21ÉC (70ÉF).
The cylinder walls should be checked for out-of-
round and taper with Tool C119 or equivalent (Fig.
Fig. 45 Cylinder Bore Cross-Hatch Pattern
1 - CROSS-HATCH PATTERN
2 - 40ɱ60É
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 115
VALVE STEM SEALS (Continued)

46) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS). If
the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored, the
cylinder block should be replaced, and new pistons
and rings fitted.
Measure the cylinder bore at three levels in direc-
tions A and B (Fig. 46). Top measurement should be
10 mm (3/8 in.) down and bottom measurement
should be 10 mm (3/8 in.) up from bottom of bore.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (CAM IN
BLOCK)
DESCRIPTION
The hydraulic lifters are a roller type design and
are positioned in the cylinder block. The lifters are
aligned and retained by a yoke and a retainer (Fig.
48).
Lifter alignment is maintained by machined flats
on lifter body. Lifters are fitted in pairs into six
aligning yokes. The aligning yokes are secured by a
yoke retainer (Fig. 48).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
LIFTERS
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS DIAGNOSIS - PRELIMINARY
STEP
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect lifter noise, check the engine oil pressure. (Referto 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
Check engine oil level. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the MAX mark on dipstick, or
below the MIN mark. Either of these two conditions
could cause noisy lifters.
OIL LEVEL TOO HIGH
If oil level is above the MAX mark on dipstick, it is
possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil
while engine is running and create foaming. Foam in
oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic lifters by the oil
pump causing them to become soft and allow valves
to seat noisily.
OIL LEVEL TOO LOW
Low oil level may allow pump to take in air which
when fed to the lifters it causes them to become soft
and allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake
side of pump, through which air can be drawn, will
create the same lifter noise. Check the lubrication
system from the intake strainer to the oil pump
cover, including the relief valve retainer cap. When
lifter noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent
or constant, and usually more than one lifter will be
noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected,
the engine should be operated at fast idle to allow all
of the air inside of the lifters to be bled out.
VALVE TRAIN NOISE
To determine source of valve train noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed and
listen for source of the noise.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy lifters. If such is the
case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
Valve lifter noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger which will
necessitate replacing the lifter, or by the plunger par-
tially sticking in the lifter body cylinder. A heavy
click is caused either by a lifter check valve not seat-
ing, or by foreign particles becoming wedged between
the plunger and the lifter body causing the plunger
to stick in the down position. This heavy click will be
accompanied by excessive clearance between the
valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either
case, lifter assembly should be removed for inspec-
tion.
Fig. 46 Checking Cylinder Bore Size
9 - 116 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK)
DESCRIPTION
The nodular iron camshaft is mounted in the
engine block and supported with four steel backed
aluminum bearings (Fig. 49). A thrust plate, located
in front of the first bearing, is bolted to the block and
controls the camshaft end play (Fig. 49). To distin-
guish camshafts between the 3.3L and 3.8L engines,
a cast-in ring is located between the rear bearing
journal and rear lobe (Fig. 50). The 3.3L engine
application is as-cast only. The 3.8L engine applica-
tion the cast ring is machined off.
OPERATION
The camshaft is driven by the crankshaft through
a timing chain and sprockets. The camshaft has pre-
cisely machined (egg-shaped) lobes to provide accu-
rate valve timing and duration.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine assembly from vehicle
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the cylinder heads (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the timing chain and camshaft
sprocket (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIM-
ING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the hydraulic lifters (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
(CAM IN BLOCK) - REMOVAL). Identify each tappet
for reinstallation in original location.
(5) Remove camshaft thrust plate (Fig. 49).
(6) Install a long bolt into front of camshaft to
facilitate removal of the camshaft.
(7) Remove the camshaft (Fig. 49), being careful
not to damage cam bearings with the cam lobes.
NOTE: The camshaft bearings are serviced with the
engine block.
INSPECTION
(1) Check the cam lobes and bearing surfaces for
abnormal wear and damage (Fig. 51). Replace cam-
shaft as required.
NOTE: If camshaft is replaced due to lobe wear or
damage, always replace the lifters.
(2) Measure the lobe actual wear (unworn area -
wear zone = actual wear) (Fig. 51) and replace cam-
shaft if out of limit. Standard value is 0.0254 mm
(0.001 in.), wearlimitis 0.254 mm (0.010 in.).
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing
journals with engine oil.
(2) Install a long bolt into the camshaft to assist in
the installation of the camshaft.
(3) Carefully install the camshaft in engine block.
(4) Install camshaft thrust plate and bolts (Fig.
49). Tighten to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Measure camshaft end play. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) If not within specifi-
cations, replace thrust plate.
(6) Install the timing chain and sprockets. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/
CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION)
Fig. 49 CAMSHAFT AND BEARINGS
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - THRUST PLATE
3 - BOLT
4 - CAMSHAFT BEARINGS (SERVICED WITH BLOCK)
Fig. 50 CAMSHAFT IDENTIFICATION
1 - CAMSHAFT - 3.3L ENGINE
2 - CAST-IN RING
3 - CAMSHAFT - 3.8L ENGINE
4 - MACHINED CAST-IN RING
9 - 118 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS

NOTE: When camshaft is replaced, all of the
hydraulic lifters must be replaced also.
(7) Install the hydraulic lifters (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
(CAM IN BLOCK) - INSTALLATION). Each lifter
reused must be installed in the same position from
which it was removed.
(8) Install the timing chain cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)
(9) Install the cylinder heads. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION)
(10) Install the cylinder head covers. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)
(11) Install the lower and upper intake manifolds.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANI-
FOLD - INSTALLATION)
(12) Install the engine assembly. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - INSTALLATION)
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
The pistons are made of cast aluminum alloy and
are a strutless, short skirt design. The piston rings
consist of two compression rings and a three piece oil
ring. Piston pins connect the piston to the forged
steel connecting rods. The piston pins are a press fit
into the connecting rod.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FITTING
CONNECTING RODS
The bearing caps are not interchangeable or
reversible, and should be marked at removal to
ensure correct reassembly. The bearing shells must
be installed with the tangs inserted into the
machined grooves in the rods and caps. Install cap
with the tangs on the same side as the rod. For con-
necting rod bearing fitting (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE). Fit all connecting rods
on one bank until complete.
NOTE: The connecting rod cap bolts should be
examined before reuse. Bolt stretch can be checked
by holding a scale or straight edge against the
threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale
the bolt must be replaced (Fig. 52).
Fig. 51 Checking Camshaft for Wear (Typical)
1 - UNWORN AREA
2 - ACTUAL WEAR
3 - BEARING JOURNAL
4 - LOBE
5 - WEAR ZONE
Fig. 52 Check for Stretched (Necked) Bolts
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLT
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 119
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK) (Continued)

(1) Before installing the nuts the threads should
be oiled with engine oil.
(2) Install nuts finger tight on each bolt then alter-
nately torque each nut to assemble the cap properly.
(3) Tighten the nuts to 54 N´m PLUS 1/4 turn (40
ft. lbs. PLUS 1/4 turn).
(4) Using a feeler gauge, check connecting rod side
clearance (Fig. 53). Refer to Engine Specifications
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FITTING PISTONS
The piston and cylinder wall must be clean and
dry. Piston diameter should be measured 90 degrees
to piston pin at size location shown in (Fig. 54). Cyl-
inder bores should be measured halfway down the
cylinder bore and transverse to the engine crankshaft
center line shown in (Fig. 55). Refer to Engine Spec-
ifications (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICA-
TIONS).Pistons and cylinder bores should be
measured at normal room temperature, 21ÉC
(70ÉF).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the cylinder heads. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the top ridge of cylinder bores with a
reliable ridge reamer, if necessary, before removing
pistons from cylinder block.Be sure to keep tops
of pistons covered during this operation. Pis-
tons and connecting rods must be removed
from top of cylinder block. When removing pis-
ton and connecting rod assemblies from the
engine, rotate crankshaft so that each connect-
ing rod is centered in cylinder bore.
(5) Inspect connecting rods and connecting rod
caps for cylinder identification. Identify them, if nec-
essary (Fig. 56).Fig. 53 Checking Connecting Rod Side Clearance
Fig. 54 Piston Measurement Locations - Typical
1 - 39.8 mm (1.56 in. ) 3.3L ENGINE
2 - 33.0 mm (1.29 in.) 3.8L ENGINE
Fig. 55 Checking Cylinder Bore Size
Fig. 56 Identify Connecting Rod to Cylinder
1 - CYLINDER NUMBER
9 - 120 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING
CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE
The bearing caps are not interchangeable and
should be marked at removal to ensure correct
assembly. The bearing shells must be installed with
the tangs inserted into the machined grooves in the
rods and caps. Install cap with the tangs on the same
side as the rod. Fit all rods on one bank until com-
plete. Connecting rod bearings are available in the
standard size and the following undersizes: 0.025
mm (0.001 in.) and 0.250 mm (0.010 in.).
CAUTION: Install the bearings in pairs. Do not use a
new bearing half with an old bearing half. Do not
file the rods or bearing caps.
Measure connecting rod journal for taper and out-
of-round. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CRANKSHAFT - INSPECTION)The connecting rod bearing clearances can be
determined by use of Plastigage or the equivalent.
The following is the recommended procedure for the
use of Plastigage:
(1) Rotate the crankshaft until the connecting rod
to be checked is at the bottom of its stroke.
(2) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(3) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the bearing cap approx-
imately 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) off center and away from
the oil hole. In addition, suspect areas can be
checked by placing Plastigage in that area.
(4) Assemble the rod cap with Plastigage in place.
Tighten the rod cap to the specified torque.Do not
rotate the crankshaft while assembling the cap
or the Plastigage may be smeared, giving inac-
curate results.
(5) Remove the bearing cap and compare the
width of the flattened Plastigage with the scale pro-
vided on the package (Fig. 61). Locate the band clos-
est to the same width. This band indicates the
Fig. 60 Piston and Connecting Rod Positioning (Front View of Engine)
1 - MAJOR THRUST SIDE OF PISTON2 - OIL SQUIRT HOLE
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 123
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

amount of oil clearance. Differences in readings
between the ends indicate the amount of taper
present. Record all readings taken. Refer to Engine
Specifications (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICA-
TIONS).Plastigage generally is accompanied by
two scales. One scale is in inches, the other is a
metric scale. If the bearing clearance exceeds
wear limit specification, replace the bearing.
PISTON RINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON RING
FITTING
(1) Wipe cylinder bore clean. Insert the ring and
push down with piston to ensure squareness in bore
to approximately 12 mm (0.50 in.) from top of cylin-
der bore. Check ring gap with a feeler gauge (Fig.
62). For clearance specification (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
- SPECIFICATIONS).
(2) Check piston ring to groove side clearance (Fig.
63). For clearance specification (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
- SPECIFICATIONS)
REMOVAL
(1) Remove piston and connecting rod. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECT-
ING ROD - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove No. 1 and No.2 piston rings from pis-
ton using a ring expander tool (Fig. 66).
(3) Remove upper oil ring side rail (Fig. 65).
(4) Remove lower oil ring side rail (Fig. 65).
(5) Remove oil ring expander (Fig. 65).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install rings with manufacturers I.D. mark (if
present) facing up, to the top of the piston (Fig. 64).
CAUTION: Install piston rings in the following
order:
1. Oil ring expander.
2. Upper oil ring side rail.
3. Lower oil ring side rail.
4. No. 2 Intermediate piston ring.
5. No. 1 Upper piston ring.
(2) Install the side rail by placing one end
between the piston ring groove and the expander.
Hold end firmly and press down the portion to be
installed until side rail is in position.Do not use a
piston ring expander(Fig. 65).
Fig. 61 Measuring Connecting Rod Bearing
Clearance
Fig. 62 Piston Ring Gap
1 - FEELER GAUGE
Fig. 63 Piston Ring Side Clearance
1 - FEELER GAUGE
9 - 124 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS (Continued)