Light DODGE DURANGO 1998 1.G Owner's Guide

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine EXHAUST MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds are constructed of cast iron
and are LOG type with balanced flow (Fig. 5). One
exhaust manifold is attached to each cylinder head.
OPERATION
The exhaust manifolds collect the engine exhaust
exiting the combustion chambers, then channels the
exhaust gases to the exhaust pipes attached to the
manifolds.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The aluminum intake manifold (Fig. 6) is a single
plane design with equal length runners and uses a
separate plenum, therefore the manifold does have a
plenum gasket. It also uses separate flange gaskets
and front and rear cross-over gaskets. Extreme caremust be used when sealing the gaskets to ensure
that excess sealant does not enter the intake runners
causing a restriction. Whenever the intake manifold
is removed inspect the plenum pan for evidence of
excess oil buildup, this condition indicates that the
plenum pan gasket is leaking.
OPERATION
The intake manifold, meters and delivers air to the
combustion chambers allowing the fuel delivered by
the fuel injectors to ignite, thus producing power.
1 ± OIL DEFLECTOR TAB
2 ± BOLT
3 ± ROCKER ARM PIVOT
4 ± ROCKER ARM
5 ± DRIP OILING FOR VALVE TIP
6 ± CYLINDER HEAD BOSS
7 ± TO MAIN BEARINGS
8 ± TO CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
9 ± ROCKER ARM
10 ± HOLLOW PUSH ROD
11 ± TAPPET
12 ± TO CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
13 ± OIL INTAKE14 ± OIL PUMP
15 ± OIL FILTER
16 ± CRANKSHAFT
17 ± FROM OIL PUMP
18 ± OIL TO FILTER
19 ± OIL FROM FILTER TO SYSTEM
20 ± PASSAGE TO CAMSHAFT REAR BEARING
21 ± RIGHT OIL GALLERY
22 ± PLUG
23 ± OIL PASSAGE FOR OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR LIGHT
24 ± OIL SUPPLY VIA HOLLOW PUSH ROD SUPPLY IS FROM
OIL GALLERY METERED THROUGH HYDRAULIC TAPPET
25 ± OIL SUPPLY FROM HOLLOW PUSH ROD
Fig. 5 Exhaust ManifoldsÐV-8 Gas Engines Typical
1 ± EXHAUST MANIFOLD (LEFT)
2 ± BOLTS & WASHERS
3 ± NUTS & WASHERS
4 ± EXHAUST MANIFOLD (RIGHT)
5 ± BOLTS & WASHERS
Fig. 6 Intake Manifold and Throttle BodyÐV-8 Gas
Engines Typical
1 ± FUEL RAIL ASSEMBLY
2 ± FUEL RAIL MOUNTING BOLTS
3 ± FUEL RAIL CONNECTING HOSES
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 139
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to the Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leak-
age Test Diagnosis chart.
INSPECTION (ENGINE OIL LEAKS IN GENERAL)
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.
(5) If the oil leak source is not positively identified
at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(7) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKSÐINSPECTION
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces. See Group 9, Engines, for
proper repair procedures of these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, Refer to Group
9, EnginesÐCrankshaft Rear Oil Seals, for proper
replacement procedures.
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 147
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by theplunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 11).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch)
diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tap-
pet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal
position.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7) Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push
rod.
(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the
base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2
seconds.
(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require
20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with
leak-down time interval not within this specification.
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit.
9 - 148 5.9L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292. Start engine and record pressure. Refer to
Oil Pressure in Engine Specifications for the proper
pressures.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS
There are several places where form-in-place gas-
kets are used on the engine.DO NOT use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Care
must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets.
Bead size, continuity and location are of great impor-
tance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too
much can result in spill-over. A continuous bead of
the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free
joint.
Two types of form-in-place gasket materials are
used in the engine area (Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant and Mopar Gasket Maker). Each
have different properties and cannot be used inter-
changeably.
MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, normally
black in color, is available in 3 ounce tubes. Moisture
in the air causes the sealant material to cure. This
material is normally used on flexible metal flanges.
It has a shelf life of a year and will not properly cure
if over aged. Always inspect the package for the expi-
ration date before use.
MOPAR GASKET MAKER
Mopar Gasket Maker, normally red in color, is
available in 6 cc tubes. This anaerobic type gasket
material cures in the absence of air when squeezed
between smooth machined metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. DO NOT use
on flexible metal flanges.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Parts assembled with form-in-place gaskets may be
disassembled without unusual effort. In some
instances, it may be necessary to lightly tap the part
with a mallet or other suitable tool to break the seal
between the mating surfaces. A flat gasket scraper
may also be lightly tapped into the joint but care
must be taken not to damage the mating surfaces.
Scrape or wire brush all gasket surfaces to remove
all loose material. Inspect stamped parts to ensure
gasket rails are flat. Flatten rails with a hammer on
a flat plate, if required. Gasket surfaces must be free
of oil and dirt. Make sure the old gasket material is
removed from blind attaching holes.
GASKET APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care.
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant should be
applied in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm
(0.12 inch) in diameter. All mounting holes must be
circled. For corner sealing,a3or6mm(1/8 or 1/4
inch) drop is placed in the center of the gasket con-
tact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a
shop towel. Components should be torqued in place
while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10
minutes). The use of a locating dowel is recom-
mended during assembly to prevent smearing the
material off location.
Mopar Gasket Maker should be applied sparingly
to one gasket surface. The sealant diameter should
be 1.00 mm (0.04 inch) or less. Be certain the mate-
rial surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material
can easily be wiped off. Components should be
torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing the material off location.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
It is important that the vehicle is operating to its
optimum performance level to maintain fuel economy
and the lowest emission levels. If vehicle is not oper-
ating to these standards, refer to Engine Diagnosis
outlined in this section. The following procedures can
assist in achieving the proper engine diagnosis.
(1) Test cranking amperage draw. Refer to Electri-
cal Group 8B, Cold Cranking Test.
Fig. 11 Leak-Down Tester
1 ± POINTER
2 ± WEIGHTED ARM
3 ± RAM
4 ± CUP
5 ± HANDLE
6 ± PUSH ROD
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 149
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in the Maintenance Schedule. This infor-
mation can be found in your owner's manual.
TO CHANGE ENGINE OIL
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
Refer to Hoisting and Jacking Recommendations.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug and
gasket if damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.(7) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil described in this sec-
tion.
(8) Install oil fill cap.
(9) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(10) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
ENGINE OIL FILTER CHANGE
FILTER SPECIFICATION
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-
flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Cor-
poration recommends a Mopar or equivalent oil filter
be used.
OIL FILTER REMOVAL
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove
it from the cylinder block oil filter boss (Fig. 15).
(4) When filter separates from adapter nipple, tip
gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove fil-
ter from vehicle.
(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface (Fig. 16) of oil and grime.
OIL FILTER INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil or chassis grease.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 16) hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Fig. 14 Engine Oil Dipstick LocationÐ5.9L Engines
1 ± CYLINDER HEAD COVER
2 ± ENGINE OIL FILL-HOLE CAP
3 ± DIPSTICK
4 ± ENGINE OIL FILTER
5 ± FILTER BOSS
Fig. 15 Oil Filter RemovalÐTypical
1 ± ENGINE OIL FILTER
2 ± OIL FILTER WRENCH
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 151
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
CYLINDER BOREÐHONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 17).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
HYDROSTATIC LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the plugs from the
engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
Fig. 16 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 ± SEALING SURFACE
2 ± RUBBER GASKET
3 ± OIL FILTER
Fig. 17 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 ± CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 ± INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 152 5.9L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Use a 2 step procedure so the valve guides are
reamed true in relation to the valve seat:
²Step 1ÐReam to 0.0763 mm (0.003 inch).
²Step 2ÐReam to 0.381 mm (0.015 inch).
REFACING VALVES AND VALVE SEATS
The intake and exhaust valves have a 43-1/4É to
43-3/4É face angle and a 44-1/4É to 44-3/4É seat angle
(Fig. 20).
VALVES
Inspect the remaining margin after the valves are
refaced (Fig. 21). Valves with less than 1.190 mm
(0.047 inch) margin should be discarded.
VALVE SEATS
CAUTION: DO NOT un-shroud valves during valve
seat refacing (Fig. 22).
(1) When refacing valve seats, it is important that
the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseat-
ing stones. A true and complete surface must be
obtained.(2) Measure the concentricity of valve seat using a
dial indicator. Total runout should not exceed 0.051
mm (0.002 inch) total indicator reading.
(3) Inspect the valve seat with Prussian blue to
determine where the valve contacts the seat. To do
this, coat valve seatLIGHTLYwith Prussian blue
then set valve in place. Rotate the valve with light
pressure. If the blue is transferred to the center of
valve face, contact is satisfactory. If the blue is trans-
ferred to the top edge of valve face, lower valve seat
with a 15É stone. If the blue is transferred to bottom
edge of valve face raise valve seat with a 60É stone.
(4) When seat is properly positioned the width of
intake seats should be 1.016-1.524 mm (0.040-0.060
REAMER SIZES
REAMER O/S VALVE GUIDE SIZE
0.076 mm (0.003 in.) 8.026 - 8.052 mm
(0.316 - 0.317 in.)
0.381 mm (0.015 in.) 8.331 - 8.357 mm
(0.328 - 0.329 in.)
Fig. 20 Valve Face and Seat Angles
1 ± CONTACT POINT
VALVE FACE AND VALVE SEAT ANGLE CHART
ITEM DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
ASEAT WIDTH± 1.016 - 1.524 mm
INTAKE (0.040 - 0.060 in.)
SEAT WIDTH± 1.524 - 2.032 mm
EXHAUST (0.060 - 0.080 in.)
BFACE ANGLE
(INT. and EXT.) 43
1¤4É-433¤4É
CSEAT ANGLE
(INT. and EXT.) 44
1¤4É-443¤4É
DCONTACT
SURFACE Ð
Fig. 21 Intake and Exhaust Valves
1 ± MARGIN
2 ± VALVE SPRING RETAINER LOCK GROOVE
3 ± STEM
4±FACE
9 - 154 5.9L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Upper and lower No.3 bearing halves are flanged
to carry the crankshaft thrust loads. They are NOT
interchangeable with any other bearing halves in the
engine (Fig. 31). Bearing shells are available in stan-
dard and the following undersizes: 0.25 mm (0.001
inch), 0.051 mm (0.002 inch), 0.076 mm (0.003 inch),
0.254 mm (0.010 inch) and 0.305 mm (0.012 inch).
Never install an undersize bearing that will reduce
clearance below specifications.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
ENGINE FRONT MOUNTS
REMOVALÐ2WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise hood and position fan to assure clearance
for radiator top tank and hose.
CAUTION: DO NOT lift the engine by the intake
manifold.
(3) Install engine lifting fixture.
(4) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(5) Remove the insulator through bolt (Fig. 32)
(Fig. 33).
(6) Raise engine with lifting fixture SLIGHTLY.
Remove insulator retaining bolts and remove the
insulator assembly.
(7) Remove insulator heat shield and transfer to
new insulator.
INSTALLATIONÐ2WD
(1) With the engine raised SLIGHTLY, position
insulator assembly onto the engine block and install
bolts (Fig. 32) (Fig. 33). Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m
(30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Lower engine with lifting fixture while guiding
insulator assembly into the engine insulator bracket
(Fig. 34).
(3) Install insulator to bracket thru-bolt. Tighten
the thru-bolt nut to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Remove lifting fixture.
(5) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
Fig. 29 Compression Ring Chamfer Location
(Typical)
1 ± CHAMFER
2 ± TOP COMPRESSION RING
3 ± SECOND COMPRESSION RING
4 ± PISTON
5 ± CHAMFER
Fig. 30 Proper Ring Installation
1 ± OIL RING SPACER GAP
2 ± SECOND COMPRESSION RING GAP OIL RING RAIL GAP
(TOP)
3 ± OIL RING RAIL GAP (BOTTOM)
4 ± TOP COMPRESSION RING GAP
Fig. 31 Main Bearing Identification
9 - 158 5.9L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine REMOVALÐ4WD
On 4WD vehicles the engine front support brackets
attach directly to engine block and the axle housing.
The brackets provide a solid interconnection for these
units (Fig. 35) (Fig. 36). Engine must be supported
during any service procedures involving the front
support assemblies.
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Install engine lifting (support) fixture.
(4) Remove front axle. (Refer to Group 3, Differen-
tial and Driveline in this publication.)
(5)Left mount insulator only.Remove starter
wires and starter motor assembly.
(6) Remove insulator to frame through bolt (Fig.
37).
(7) Raise engine slightly.
(8) Remove upper insulator to support bracket
stud nut and insulator to support through bolt.
(9) Remove engine mount insulator (Fig. 35) (Fig.
36).
(10) If engine support bracket is to be removed/re-
placed, remove support bracket to transmission bell
housing bolt(s) and three (3) support bracket to
engine block bolts. Remove support bracket (Fig. 35)
(Fig. 36).
Fig. 32 Engine Right Front Insulator MountÐ2WD
Vehicles
1 ± HEAT SHIELD
2 ± INSULATOR
Fig. 33 Engine Left Front Insulator MountÐ2WD
Vehicles
1 ± HEAT SHIELD
2 ± INSULATOR
Fig. 34 Engine Mount Insulator at Frame
1 ± NUT
2 ± INSULATOR
3 ± FRAME
4 ± THROUGH BOLT
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 159
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine INSTALLATIONÐ4WD
(1) If engine support brackets were removed,
install them and their fasteners (Fig. 35) (Fig. 36).
Tighten support bracket to block bolts to 41 N´m (30
ft. lbs.). Tighten support bracket to transmission bell-
housing bolt(s) to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install Engine mount insulator and tighten
insulator to support bracket nut to 41 N´m (30 ft.
lbs.). Tighten insulator to support bracket through
bolt nut to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(3) Lower engine and install insulator to frame
through bolt and nut (Fig. 37). Tighten nut to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install starter motor and mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(5) Connect starter wires.
(6) Remove engine lifting (support) fixture.
(7) Install front axle assembly (Refer to Group 3,
Differential and Driveline).
(8) Lower the vehicle.
(9) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
ENGINE REAR SUPPORT
REMOVALÐ2WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Support the transmission with a jack.
(4) Remove engine support bracket and insulator
thru-bolt (Fig. 38).
(5) Raise the transmission and engine slightly.
(6) Remove stud nuts attaching insulator to cross-
member (Fig. 38). Remove insulator.
INSTALLATIONÐ2WD
(1) If the engine support bracket was removed,
position the bracket to the transmission extension
(Fig. 38). Tighten the bolts to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(2) Install the insulator onto crossmember. Tighten
the stud nuts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs) torque.
(3) Lower the transmission and engine while align-
ing the engine support bracket to the insulator.
(4) Install thru-bolt in bracket and insulator.
Tighten thru-bolt nut to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Remove transmission jack.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
Fig. 35 Right Engine Mount Insulator and Support
BracketÐ4WD Vehicles
1 ± ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET
2 ± INSULATOR
3 ± FRONT AXLE
Fig. 36 Left Engine Mount Insulator and Support
BracketÐ4WD Vehicles
1 ± ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET
2 ± INSULATOR
3 ± FRONT AXLE
9 - 160 5.9L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)