DODGE NEON 2000 Service Repair Manual

FRONT DOOR
HOOD HINGE
1 ± HOOD HINGE
2 ± HOOD
3 ± HOOD HINGE
FRONT DOOR HINGE
1 ± BODY ASSEMBLY
2 ± UPPER HINGE3 ± FRONT DOOR
4 ± LOWER HINGE
HOOD ADJUST BUMPER
1 ± HOOD STATIONARY BUMPER
2 ± HOOD ADJUST BUMPER
23 - 14 BODYPL
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

FRONT DOOR LATCH AND OUTER HANDLE
1 ± LOCK TO LATCH LINK & SLEEVE
2 ± FRONT DOOR
3 ± CENTRAL LOCKING SWITCH
4 ± OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE5 ± LOCK CYLINDER RETAINING CLIP
6 ± LOCK CYLINDER
7 ± FRONT DOOR LATCH
8 ± INSIDE DOOR HANDLE LINK & SLEEVE
FRONT DOOR LATCH
1 ± OUTSIDE HANDLE TO LATCH
2 ± KEY CYLINDER TO LATCH
3 ± POWER DOOR LOCK CONNECTOR
4 ± POWER5 ± FRONT DOOR LATCH
6 ± MANUAL
7 ± INSIDE DOOR HANDLE TO LATCH
8 ± INSIDE LOCK TO LATCH
PLBODY 23 - 15
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

SPLASH SHIELD
FRONT DOOR POWER WINDOW REGULATOR
1 ± FRONT DOOR GLASS
2 ± FRONT DOOR
3 ± POWER WINDOW REGULATOR4 ± POWER WINDOW CONNECTORS
5 ± WINDOW TO REGULATOR FASTENER
FRONT DOOR MANUAL WINDOW REGULATOR
1 ± FRONT DOOR
2 ± FRONT WINDOW MANUAL REGULATOR3 ± WINDOW TO REGULATOR FASTENERS
4 ± FRONT DOOR GLASS
23 - 16 BODYPL
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

FRONT FENDER SPLASH SHIELD
1 ± PUSH IN PLUG
2 ± FRONT FASCIA
3 ± PULLEY SPLASH SHIELD4 ± FRONT FASCIA
5 ± FRONT FENDER SPLASH SHIELD
6 ± PULLEY SPLASH SHIELD
REAR WHEEL HOUSING SPLASH SHIELD
1 ± REAR FASCIA
2 ± REAR WHEEL HOUSING SPLASH SHIELD
PLBODY 23 - 17
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water-test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the lowest point of the water track or
drop. After leak point has been found, repair the leak
and water test to verify that the leak has stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
23 - 18 BODYPL

WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
HEAT STAKING
(1) Remove trim panel.
(2) Bend or move the trim panel components at
the heat staked joints. Observe the heat staked loca-
tions and/or component seams for looseness.(3) Heat stake the components.
(a) If the heat staked or component seam loca-
tion is loose, hold the two components tightly
together and using a soldering gun with a flat tip,
melt the material securing the components
together. Do not over heat the affected area, dam-
age to the exterior of the trim panel may occur.
(b) If the heat staked material is broken or miss-
ing, use a hot glue gun to apply new material to
the area to be repaired. The panels that are being
heat staked must be held together while the apply-
ing the glue. Once the new material is in place, it
may be necessary to use a soldering gun to melt
the newly applied material. Do not over heat the
affected area, damage to the exterior of the trim
panel may occur.
(4) Allow the repaired area to cool and verify the
repair.
(5) Install trim panel.
PLASTIC BODY PANEL REPAIR
DESCRIPTION OPERATION
Resin Transfer Molded (RTM) body panels are rein-
forced with a continuous fiberglass mesh. Epoxy
resin is injected into a gel-coated and fiberglass-lined
mold to form a body panel. Sheet molded compound
(SMC) body panels are constructed with fiberglass
strands usually 1 inch or shorter, epoxy resin formed
into sheet stock and pressed in mold flowing material
to form a sheet molded compound (SMC) body panel.
RTM and SMC body panels can be repaired with
epoxy adhesive after market products. Refer to
instructions provided by the manufacturer of prod-
ucts being used to repair RTM or SMC. Daimler-
Chrysler Corporation recommends that a trained
automotive body technician perform body panel
repair procedures (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1 Panel Repair
PLBODY 23 - 19
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

SAFETY PRECAUTION AND WARNINGS
WARNING: EYE PROTECTION SHOULD BE USED
WHEN SERVICING RTM AND SMC COMPONENTS.
PERSONAL INJURE CAN RESULT.
USE AN OSHA APPROVED BREATHING DEVICE
WHEN MIXING EPOXY, GRINDING RTM AND SMC,
AND SPRAYING PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN A CON-
FINED AREA. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
AVOID PROLONGED SKIN CONTACT WITH
EPOXY RESIN, PETROLEUM, OR ALCOHOL BASED
SOLVENTS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
DO NOT VENTURE UNDER A HOISTED VEHICLE
THAT IS NOT PROPERLY SUPPORTED ON SAFETY
STANDS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
²When holes must be drilled or cut in body pan-
els, verify locations of internal body components and
electrical wiring. Damage to vehicle can result.
²Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds on
undamaged painted surfaces around repair areas.
Damage to finish can result.
PANEL SECTIONING
If it is required to section a large panel for an SMC
or RTM repair, it will be necessary to reinforce the
panel with epoxy structural adhesive (rigid repair
adhesive) (Fig. 2). To bond two plastic panels
together, a reinforcement must overlap both panels.
The panels must be ªV'dº at a 20 degree angle. The
area to be reinforced should be washed, then sanded.
Be sure to wipe off any excess soap and water when
finished. Lightly sand or abrade the plastic with an
abrasive pad or sandpaper. Blow off any dust with
compressed air or wipe with a clean dry rag.When bonding SMC or RTM panels, use a two-part
epoxy adhesive. Properly mix parts A and B, and
apply it to the panels being repaired. Be sure that
enough adhesive has been applied to allow squeeze
out and to fill the full bond line. Once the pieces
have been brought together, do not move them until
the adhesive is cured. The assembly can be held
together with clamps, rivets, etc. A faster cure can be
obtained by heating with a heat lamp or heat gun.
After the parts have been bonded and have had
time to cure, rough sand the seam and apply the
final adhesive filler to the area being repaired.
Smooth the filler with a spatula, wooden tongue
depressor, or squeegee. For fine texturing, a small
amount of water can be applied to the filler surface
while smoothing. The cured filler can be sanded as
necessary and, as a final step, cleanup can be done
withy soapy water. Wipe the surface clean with a dry
cloth allowing time for the panel to dry before mov-
ing on with the repair.
PANEL REINFORCEMENT
Structural repair procedures for rigid panels such
as Sheet Molded compound (SMC) or Resin Transfer
Molded (RTM) with large cracks and holes will
require a reinforcement backing. Reinforcements can
be made with several applications of glass cloth sat-
urated with epoxy structural adhesive, semirigid or
flexible repair materials should be used for semirigid
or flexible part repairs (Fig. 3) and (Fig. 4). Open
meshed fiberglass dry wall tape can be used to form
a reinforcement. The dry wall tape allows the resin
to penetrate through and make a good bond between
the panel and the epoxy adhesive. Structurally, the
more dry wall tape used, the stronger the repair.
Another kind of repair that can be done to repair
large cracks and holes is to use a scrap piece of sim-
ilar plastic and bond with structural adhesive. The
reinforcement should cover the entire break and
should have a generous amount of overlap on either
side of the cracked or broken area.
When repairing plastic, the damaged area is first
ªV'dº out, or beveled. Large bonding areas are desir-
able when repairing plastic because small repairs are
less likely to hold permanently. Beveling the area
around a crack at a 20 degree angle will increase the
bonding surface for a repair (Fig. 5). It is recom-
mended that sharp edges be avoided because the
joint may show through after the panel is refinished.
²Panel repair for both flexible and rigid panels
are basically the same. The primary difference
between flexible panel repair and rigid panel repair
is in the adhesive materials used (Fig. 6).
²The technician should first decide what needs to
be done when working on any type of body panel.
One should determine if it is possible to return the
Fig. 2 Panel Sectioning
1 ± EXISTING PANEL
2 ± NEW PANEL
3 ± PANEL ADHESIVE
4 ± BONDING STRIP
23 - 20 BODYPL
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

damage part to its original strength and appearance
without exceeding the value of the replacement part.
²When plastic repairs are required, it is recom-
mended that the part be left on the vehicle when
every possible. That will save time, and the panel
will remain stationary during the repair. Misalign-
ment can cause stress in the repair areas and can
result in future failure.
VISUAL INSPECTION
Sheet Molded Compound (SMC) and Resin Trans-
fer Molded (RTM), because they are composites, reactdifferently to impact that sheet metal does. Compos-
ite materials can mask the severity of an accident.
Adhesive bond lines, interior structure of the doors,
and steel structure need to be inspected carefully to
get a true damage assessment. Close inspection may
require partial removal of interior trim or inner pan-
els.
Identify the type of repair:
Puncture or Crack ± Damage that has penetrated
completely through the panel. Damage is confined to
one general area; a panel section is not required.
However, a backer panel, open fiberglass tape, or
matted material must be bonded from behind (Fig.
7).
PANEL SURFACE PREPARATION
If a body panel has been punctured, cracked, or
crushed, the damaged area must be removed from
the panel to achieve a successful repair. All spider
web cracks leading away from a damaged area must
be stopped or removed. To stop a running crack in a
SMC or RTM panel, drilla6mm(0.250 in.) hole at
the end of the crack farthest away from the damage.
If spider web cracks can not be stopped, the panel
would require replacement. The surfaces around the
damaged area should be stripped of paint and freed
Fig. 3 Softened Edges
1 ± SOFTENED EDGES
2 ± PANEL ADHESIVE
3 ± BONDING STRIP
Fig. 4 Panel Reinforcement
1 ± PANEL ADHESIVE
2 ± REINFORCEMENT
Fig. 5 Beveling AngleÐ20 Degrees
Fig. 6 Fiberglass Tape
Fig. 7 Damage Component
1 ± PUNCTURE
PLBODY 23 - 21
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

from was and oil. Scuff surfaces around repair area
with 360 grit wet/dry sand paper, or equivalent, to
assure adhesion of epoxy repair materials.
PATCHING PANELS
An RTM or SMC panel that has extensive punc-
ture type damage can be repaired by cutting out the
damaged material (Fig. 8). Use a suitable reciprocat-
ing saw or cut off wheel to remove the section of the
SMC or RTM panel that is damaged. The piece cut
out can be used as a template to shape the new
patch. It is not necessary to have access to the back
of the panel to install a patch. Bevel edges of cutout
at 20 degrees to expose a larger bonding area on the
outer side. This will allow for an increased reinforce-
ment areas.
PANEL PATCH FABRICATIONS
A patch can be fabricated from any rigid fiberglass
panel that has comparable contour with the repair
area. discard SMC or RTM panels. Lift gates and
fenders can be used to supply patch material. If
existing material is not available or compatible, a
patch can be constructed with epoxy and reinforce-
ment mesh (dry wall tape). Perform the following
operation if required:
(1) Cover waxed paper or plastic with adhesive
backed nylon mesh (dry wall tape) larger than the
patch required (Fig. 9).
(2) Tape waxed paper or plastic sheet with mesh to
a surface that has a compatible contour to the repair
area.
(3) Apply a liberal coat of epoxy adhesive over the
reinforcement mesh (Fig. 9). If necessary apply a sec-
ond or third coat of epoxy and mesh after firs coathas cured. The thickness of the patch should be the
same as the repair area.
(4) After patch has cured, peel waxed paper or
plastic from the back of the patch.
(5) If desired, a thin film coat of poesy can be
applied to the back of the patch to cover mesh for
added strength.
PANEL PATCH INSTALLATION
(1) Make a paper or cardboard pattern the size
and shape of the cutout hole in the panel.
(2) Trim 3 mm (0.125 in.) from edges of pattern so
patch will have a gap between connecting surfaces.
(3) Using the pattern as a guide, cut the patch to
size.
(4) Cut scrap pieces of patch material into 50 mm
(2 in.) squares to use as patch supports to sustain
the patch in the cutout.
(5) Drill 4 mm (0.160 in.) holes 13 mm (0.5 in.) in
from edge of cutout hole (Fig. 8).
(6) Drill 4 mm (0.160 in.) holes 13 mm (0.5 in.) in
from edge of cutout hole (Fig. 8).
(7) Drill 3 mm (0.125 in.) holes in the support
squares 13 mm (0.5 in.) from the edge in the center
of one side.
(8) Scuff the backside of the body panel around the
cutout hole with a scuff pad or sandpaper.
(9) Mix enough epoxy to cover one side of all sup-
port squares.
(10) Apply epoxy to the support squares on the
half with the hole pre-drilled in it.
(11) Using number 8 sheet metal screws, secure
support squares to back side of body panel with
epoxy sandwiched between the panel and squares
(Fig. 10).
Fig. 8 Damaged Panel Cutout and Patch
1 ± CUTOUT
2 ± DAMAGED BODY PANEL
3 ± 4MM (0.160 IN.) HOLES
4 ± PATCH CUT TO SIZE
Fig. 9 Fabricated Panel
1 ± STRUCTURAL ADHESIVE OR EPOXY RESIN
2 ± FIBERGLASS CLOTH OR FIBERGLASS MESH TAPE
3 ± WIDTH OF V-GROOVE
4 ± WAXED PAPER
23 - 22 BODYPL
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

(12) Position patch in cutout against support
squares and adjust patch until the gap is equal along
all sides (Fig. 11).
(13) Drill 3 mm (0.125 in.) holes in the support
squares through the pre-drilled holes in the patch.
(14) Apply a coat of epoxy to the exposed ends of
the support squares (Fig. 12).
(15) Install screws to hold the patch to support
squares (Fig. 13). Tighten screws until patch surface
is flush with panel surface.
(16) Allow epoxy to cure, and remove all screws.
(17) Using a 125 mm (5 in.) 24 grit disc grinder,
grind a 50 mm (2 in.) to 75 mm (3 in.) wide and 2
mm (0.080 in.) deep path across the gaps around the
patch (Fig. 14). With compressed air, blow dust from
around patch.
(18) Apply adhesive backed nylon mesh (dry wall
tape) over gaps around patch (Fig. 15).
(19) Mix enough epoxy to cover the entire patch
area.
(20) Apply epoxy over the mesh around patch, and
smooth epoxy with a wide spreader to reduce finish
grinding. Use two to three layers of mesh and epoxy
to create a stronger repair (Fig. 16).
PATCHED PANEL SURFACING
After patch panel is installed, the patch area can
be finished using the same methods as finishing
other types of body panels. If mesh material is
exposed in the patched area, grind surface down, and
apply a coat of high quality rigid plastic body filler.
Prime, block sand, and paint as required.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
GRILLE
REMOVAL
(1) Release hood latch, open and support hood on
prop rod.
(2) Remove screws attaching grille to parking
lamps (Fig. 17).
(3) Remove screw attaching grille to radiator clo-
sure panel.
(4) Remove grille from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place grille into position on vehicle.
Fig. 10 Secure Support Squares To Body Panel
1 ± SUPPORT SQUARES
2 ± SCREWS
3 ± DAMAGED BODY PANEL
Fig. 11 Position Patch In Cutout And Align
1 ± CUTOUT
2 ± SUPPORT SQUARES
Fig. 12 Apply Epoxy To Support Squares
1 ± APPLICATOR
2 ± SUPPORT SQUARES
3 ± EPOXY
PLBODY 23 - 23
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)