tra DODGE NEON 2000 Service Manual Online

(7) Disconnect the primary and secondary brake
tubes from the master cylinder (Fig. 15). Install
plugs in the master cylinder outlet ports.
(8) Disconnect the 25-way connector from the con-
troller antilock brake (CAB) mounted on the inte-
grated control unit (ICU) and move it out of the way.
The connector is disconnected by pulling outward on
the connector lock (Fig. 16). This will unlock and
raise the 25-way connector out of the socket on the
CAB.(9) Tag the brake tubes coming from the master
cylinder as primary and secondary (Fig. 15). This is
done to avoid mix-up once the tubes are removed
from the vehicle.
(10) Disconnect and remove the primary and sec-
ondary brake tubes coming from the master cylinder
at the ICU hydraulic control unit (HCU) (Fig. 15).
(11) Disconnect the brake tubes going to each indi-
vidual brake at the HCU (Fig. 15).
(12) Remove the 3 bolts attaching the ICU to its
mounting bracket (Fig. 17).
(13) Remove the ICU from the vehicle.
Fig. 13 Brake Pedal Holder
1 ± CLUTCH PEDAL (IF EQUIPPED WITH MANUAL TRANSAXLE)
2 ± THROTTLE PEDAL
3 ± BRAKE PEDAL HOLDING TOOL
4 ± STEERING WHEEL
5 ± DRIVER'S SEAT
6 ± BRAKE PEDAL
Fig. 14 Battery Tray Mounting
1 ± BATTERY TRAY MOUNTING NUTS
2 ± BATTERY TRAY MOUNTING BOLTS
3 ± AIR CLEANER BOX POST
Fig. 15 Brake Tube Locations
1 ± PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE
2 ± SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE
3 ± BRAKE TUBES FROM MASTER CYLINDER
4 ± BRAKE TUBES TO BRAKES
Fig. 16 Connector Lock Pulled Outward
1 ± MASTER CYLINDER
2 ± 25±WAY CONNECTOR
3 ± CAB
4 ± CONNECTOR LOCK PULLED OUTWARD
5 ± ICU
5 - 80 BRAKESPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

(14) Refer to DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY in
this section of this group for the procedure on sepa-
rating and reattaching the CAB to the HCU.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the ICU onto its mounting bracket.
(2) Install the 3 bolts attaching the ICU to the
mounting bracket (Fig. 17). Tighten the 3 mounting
bolts to a torque of 11 N´m (97 in. lbs.)
(3) Install the four brake tubes going to the brakes
into their respective outlet ports on the ICU HCU
(Fig. 15). Using a crow foot on a torque wrench,
tighten the four brake tube nuts to a torque of 17
N´m (145 in. lbs.).
NOTE: When installing the brake tubes from the
master cylinder on the HCU, the brake tube with the
small tube nut is to be installed in the forward-most
port on the HCU with the small end going toward
the master cylinder secondary port.
(4) Install the primary and secondary brake tubes
from the master cylinder onto the HCU (Fig. 15). Do
not completely tighten the primary and secondary
tubes at this time.
(5) Connect the primary and secondary brake
tubes to the master cylinder ports (Fig. 15).
(6) Using a crow foot on a torque wrench, tighten
the primary and secondary brake tube nuts at both
the master cylinder and HCU to a torque of 17 N´m
(145 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: Before installing the 25-way connector
in the CAB, be sure the seal is properly installed in
the connector.(7) Install the 25-way connector into the socket of
the CAB as follows:
²Position the 25-way connector in the socket of
the CAB and carefully push it down as far as possi-
ble (Fig. 16).
²When the connector is fully seated into the CAB
socket, push the connector lock inward. This pulls
the connector into the socket of the CAB and locks it
in the installed position.
(8) Position the battery tray back in place. Install
the two bolts, then the two nuts mounting the bat-
tery tray to its bracket (Fig. 14). Tighten the two
bolts and nuts to a torque of 15 N´m (135 in. lbs.).
(9) Reinstall the air cleaner box onto its grom-
meted alignment post (Fig. 14).
(10) Install the one nut and one bolt securing the
air cleaner box in place, then connect the wiring har-
ness connector at the air inlet sensor.
(11) Install the battery and clamp it in place.
Tighten the hold-down clamp bolt to a torque of 12
N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(12) Connect the positive, then the negative
(ground) cable on the battery.
(13) Bleed the base and the ABS hydraulic sys-
tems. Refer to ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM
BLEEDING in this section of this service manual
group.
(14) Fill the master cylinder to the proper fill
level.
(15) Road test the vehicle to ensure proper opera-
tion of the base and antilock brake systems.
WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (FRONT)
NOTE: Before proceeding with this procedure,
review SERVICE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS at the
beginning of REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION in this
section.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle. Refer to HOISTING in the
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE group for the
proper lifting procedure.
(2) Disconnect the wheel speed sensor cable con-
nector from the wiring harness on the inside of the
frame rail above the front suspension crossmember
(Fig. 18). The connector has a locking tab which that
must be pulled back before the connector release
tang can be depressed, releasing the connection.
(3) Remove the speed sensor cable grommet from
the retaining bracket attached to the brake hose on
the outside of the frame rail.
(4) Remove the bolt mounting the wheel speed sen-
sor head to the steering knuckle (Fig. 19).
Fig. 17 ICU Mounting Bolts
1 ± ICU
2 ± ICU MOUNTING BOLTS
PLBRAKES 5 - 81
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

CAUTION: When removing a wheel speed sensor
from the knuckle, do not use pliers on the sensor
head. This may damage the sensor head. If the sen-
sor has seized, use a hammer and a punch to tap
the edge of the sensor head ear, rocking the sensor
side-to-side until free.
(5) Carefully, remove the sensor head from the
steering knuckle.(6) Remove the screw securing the wheel speed
sensor to the rear of the strut (Fig. 20). Remove the
wheel speed sensor.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Failure to install speed sensor cables
properly may result in contact with moving parts or
an over extension of cables causing an open cir-
cuit. Be sure that cables are installed, routed, and
clipped properly.
(1) Attach the wheel speed sensor to the strut
using the its mounting screw (Fig. 20).
(2) Install the wheel speed sensor head in the
steering knuckle (Fig. 19). Install the mounting bolt.
Tighten the mounting bolt to a torque of 12 N´m (105
in. lbs.).
(3) From the sensor bracket on the strut, loop the
sensor cable upward, then downward at the outside
of the frame rail. Install the speed sensor cable grom-
met onto the retaining bracket attached to the brake
hose on the outside of the frame rail.
(4) Loop the wheel speed sensor cable around the
bottom of the frame rail and connect it to the wiring
harness connector on the inside of the frame rail
(Fig. 18). Remember to push in the locking tab on the
connector.
(5) Install the tire and wheel assembly.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of
the base brakes and ABS.
Fig. 18 Wiring Harness Connector
1 ± RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR
2 ± RIGHT FRONT DRIVESHAFT
3 ± ENGINE OIL FILTER
Fig. 19 Wheel Speed Sensor
1 ± RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 ± TONE WHEEL
Fig. 20 Wheel Speed Sensor At Strut
1 ± ABS WHEEL SPEED SENSOR ROUTING BRACKET (IF
EQUIPPED)
2 ± GROUND STRAP
3 ± GROUND STRAP SCREW
4 ± ABS SENSOR BRACKET SCREW (IF EQUIPPED)
5 - 82 BRAKESPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

CLUTCH
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
MODULAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY..............1
CLUTCH CABLE..........................1
CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH........1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
CLUTCH SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS...............2
DRIVE PLATE MISALIGNMENT..............5
CLUTCH CHATTER COMPLAINTS............5
CLASH±INTO±REVERSE COMPLAINTS........5
CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH........5REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
CLUTCH CABLE..........................7
CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH........8
MODULAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY..............8
RELEASE BEARING AND FORK.............12
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION.................12
CLEANING PRECAUTIONS.................13
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE...............................13
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
MODULAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
All 2.0L SOHC engines equipped with the A578
5-speed transaxle use a modular clutch assembly
(Fig. 1). The transaxle must be removed to gain
access to and replace the modular clutch, drive plate,
and/or clutch release bearing and lever.
The modular clutch assembly used in this vehicle
consists of a single, dry-type clutch disc, a diaphragm
style clutch cover, and an integrated flywheel. The
clutch cover is riveted to the flywheel, containing theclutch disc within. The modular clutch can only be
serviced as an assembly.
The clutch disc has cushion springs riveted to the
disc hub assembly. The clutch disc facings are riveted
to the cushion springs. The facings are made from a
non-asbestos material.
The clutch cover pressure plate assembly is a dia-
phragm type unit with a one-piece diaphragm spring
with multiple release fingers. The pressure plate
release fingers are preset during manufacture and
are not adjustable.
CLUTCH CABLE
The clutch cable assembly (Fig. 2) carries the
movement of the clutch pedal to the clutch release
bearing. The cable is designed to maintain tension
against the clutch fork, or lever, and has a built in
self-adjusting mechanism, which compensates for
clutch disc wear.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The clutch interlock/upstop switch is an assembly
consisting of two switches: an engine starter inhibit
switch (interlock) and a clutch pedal upstop switch
(Fig. 3). The switch assembly is located in the clutch/
brake pedal bracket assembly (Fig. 4), each switch
being fastened by four plastic wing tabs.
OPERATION
Clutch Interlock Switch
The clutch interlock switch prevents engine starter
operation and inadvertent vehicle movement with the
clutch engaged and the transaxle in gear.
Fig. 1 Modular Clutch Assembly
1 ± MODULAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
PLCLUTCH 6 - 1

The switch is open while the clutch pedal is at
rest. When the clutch pedal is fully depressed, the
pedal blade contacts and closes the switch, sending a
signal to the PCM, allowing engine starter operation.
The interlock switch is not adjustable.
Clutch Pedal Upstop Switch
With the clutch pedal at rest, the clutch pedal
upstop switch is closed, allowing speed control oper-
ation. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the upstop
switch opens and signals the PCM to cancel speed
control operation, and enter a modified engine cali-
bration schedule to improve driveability during gear-
to-gear shifts. The upstop switch is not adjustable.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
CLUTCH SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
Clutch problem diagnosis will generally require a
road test to determine the type of fault. Component
inspection will then determine the problem after road
testing.
Drive the vehicle at normal speeds during road
test. Shift the transaxle through all gear ranges and
observe clutch action. If chatter, grab, slip, or
improper release is experienced, remove and inspect
the clutch components. If the problem is noise or
hard shifting, further diagnosis may be needed. The
transaxle or other driveline components may actually
be at fault.
Fig. 2 Clutch Cable Assembly
1 ± ADJUSTER MECHANISM
2 ± CLUTCH CABLE
Fig. 3 Clutch Interlock/Upstop Switch
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
3 ± CONNECTOR
Fig. 4 Clutch/Brake Pedal Bracket Assembly
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± CLUTCH PEDAL
3 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
4 ± CONNECTOR
6 - 2 CLUTCHPL
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐCLUTCH GRAB/CHATTER
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUTCH DISC
FACING COVERED
WITH OIL OR
GREASEOil leak at engine rear main or transaxle
input shaft sealCorrect leak and replace modular clutch
assembly
Too much grease applied to splines of disc
and input shaftApply lighter coating of grease to splines
NO FAULT FOUND
WITH CLUTCH
COMPONENTSProblem actually related to suspension or
driveline componentFurther diagnosis required. Check
engine/transmission mounts, suspension
attaching parts and other driveline
components as needed.
Engine related problems Check EFI and ignition systems
PARTIAL
ENGAGEMENT OF
CLUTCH DISCClutch cover, spring, or release fingers
bent, distorted (rough handling, improper
assembly)Replace modular clutch assembly
Clutch disc damaged or distorted Replace modular clutch assembly
Clutch misalignment Check alignment and runout of flywheel,
disc, or cover. Check clutch housing to
engine dowels and dowel holes for damage.
Correct as necessary.
SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐCLUTCH SLIPS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
DISC FACING
WORN OUTNormal wear. Replace modular clutch assembly.
Driver frequently rides (slips) clutch, results
in rapid wear overheating.Replace modular clutch assembly
Insufficient clutch cover diaphragm spring
tensionReplace modular clutch assembly
CLUTCH DISC
FACING
CONTAMINATED
WITH OIL OR
GREASELeak at rear main oil seal or transaxle input
shaft sealReplace leaking seals. Replace modular
clutch assembly.
Excessive amount of grease applied to
input shaft splinesApply less grease to input shaft. Replace
modular clutch assembly
Road splash, water entering housing Seal housing. Inspect clutch assembly.
CLUTCH IS
RUNNING
PARTIALLY
DISENGAGEDRelease bearing sticking or binding, does
not return to normal running position.Verify that bearing is actually binding. Then,
replace bearing and transmission front
bearing retainer if sleeve surface is
damaged.
Cable self-adjuster mechanism sticking or
binding causing high preloadVerify that self-adjuster is free to move
PLCLUTCH 6 - 3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUTCH DISC
FACINGS HAVE
FRACTURED INTO
SMALL PIECESDriver performs a 5-1 downshift at vehicle
speed in excess of 60 miles per hourAlert driver to problem cause. Replace
modular clutch assembly.
Leak at rear main or transaxle input shaft
sealReplace modular clutch assembly. Replace
seal.
Excessive heat from slippage Replace modular clutch assembly
SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐIMPROPER CLUTCH RELEASE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUTCH DISC
BINDS ON INPUT
SHAFT SPLINESClutch disc hub splines damaged during
installationClean, smooth, and lubricate disc and shaft
splines. Replace modular clutch assembly
and/or input shaft if splines are severely
damaged.
Input shaft splines rough, damaged. Clean input shaft splines. Then lube.
Corrosion or rust formations on splines of
input shaft and discClean input shaft splines and disc splines,
then lube
CLUTCH DISC
RUSTED TO
FLYWHEEL
AND/OR
PRESSURE PLATEOccurs in vehicles stored or not driven for
extended period of time. Also occurs after
steam cleaning if vehicle is not used for
extended period.Replace modular clutch assembly
CLUTCH WILL NOT
DISENGAGE
PROPERLYDisc bent, distorted during transaxle
installationReplace modular clutch assembly
Clutch cover diaphragm spring damaged
during transaxle installationReplace modular clutch assembly
Release fork bent, loose, or damaged Replace fork if worn or damaged
Clutch cable binding or routed incorrectly Check and correct cable routing
Self-adjuster in cable not functioning
properly, resulting in excess cable slackPull on cable conduit at transaxle (as if
disconnecting cable) to check adjuster
operation
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS±CLUTCH PEDAL NOISE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUTCH PEDAL
MAKES REPEATED
ªPOPº NOISE IN
THE FIRST INCH
OF TRAVELSelf-adjusting mechanism in cable defective Replace clutch cable
CLUTCH PEDAL
SQUEAKS WHEN
DEPRESSED TO
FLOORPedal bushings worn out or inadequate
lubricationReplace or lubricate bushings
Clutch pedal return spring worn out Lubricate or replace return spring
Clutch release lever pivot stud has
inadequate lubricationLubricate or replace clutch release lever
6 - 4 CLUTCHPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

DRIVE PLATE MISALIGNMENT
Common causes of misalignment are:
²Heat warping
²Mounting drive plate on a dirty crankshaft
flange
²Incorrect bolt tightening
²Improper seating on the crankshaft shoulder
²Loose crankshaft bolts
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
drive plate. Dirt and grease on the flange surface
may misalign the flywheel, causing excessive runout.
Use new bolts when mounting drive plate to crank-
shaft. Tighten drive plate bolts to specified torque
only. Over-tightening can distort the drive plate hub
causing excessive runout.
CLUTCH CHATTER COMPLAINTS
For all clutch chatter complaints, do the following:
(1) Check for loose, misaligned, or broken engine
and transmission mounts. If present, they should be
corrected at this time. Test vehicle for chatter. If
chatter is gone, there is no need to go any further. If
chatter persists:
(2) Check to see if clutch cable routing is correct
and operates smoothly.
(3) Check for loose connections in drive train. Cor-
rect any problems and determine if clutch chatter
complaints have been satisfied. If not:
(4) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle for procedure.
(5) Check to see if the release bearing is sticky or
binding. Replace bearing, if needed.
(6) Check linkage for excessive wear on the pivot
stud and fork fingers. Replace all worn parts.
(7) Check clutch assembly for contamination (dirt,
oil). Replace clutch assembly, if required.
(8) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged. Replace with new clutch assembly, if nec-
essary.
(9) Check input shaft splines for damage. Replace,
if necessary.
(10) Check for uneven wear on clutch fingers.
(11) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm
spring fingers. Replace with new clutch assembly, if
necessary.
CLASH±INTO±REVERSE COMPLAINTS
Certain NV T350 (A-578) manual transaxles are
equipped with a reverse brake. It prevents clash
when shifting into reverse, but only if the vehicle is
not moving. See Group 21, Transaxle for further
diagnosis.
(1) Depress clutch pedal to floor and hold. After
three seconds, shift to reverse. If clash is present,
clutch has excessive spin time, and the reverse brake
may not be functioning.(2) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle for procedure.
(3) Check the input shaft spline, clutch disc
splines, and release bearing for dry rust. If present,
clean rust off and apply a light coat of bearing grease
to the input shaft splines. Apply grease on the input
shaft splines only where the clutch disc slides. Verify
that the clutch disc slides freely along the input shaft
spline.
(4) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged, and replace with new clutch assembly if
required.
(5) Check the input shaft for damaged splines.
Replace as necessary.
(6) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm
spring fingers.
(7) Install clutch assembly and transaxle.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
The clutch interlock/upstop switch is an assembly
consisting of two switches: an engine starter inhibit
switch (clutch interlock) and a clutch pedal upstop
switch (Fig. 5). The switch assembly is located in the
clutch/brake pedal bracket assembly (Fig. 6), each
switch being fastened by four plastic wing tabs.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH
Mechanical Test
(1) With the park brake set and the transaxleIN
NEUTRAL,turn the ignition key to the start posi-
tion. The engine starter should not crank with the
clutch pedal at rest (not depressed). If the starter
cranks, proceed to the electrical test to determine
whether the switch is defective or the circuit is
shorted. If the vehicle does not crank, proceed to the
next step.
(2) With the park brake set and the transaxleIN
NEUTRAL,fully depress the clutch pedal and turn
Fig. 5 Clutch Interlock/Upstop Switch
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
3 ± CONNECTOR
PLCLUTCH 6 - 5
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS±CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE STARTER
WON'T CRANK
WHEN CLUTCH
PEDAL IS
PRESSED TO THE
FLOORClutch interlock switch does not have
continuity when plunger is depressed 1.25
mm (1.30 in.)Defective switch or open wiring circuit.
Replace switch if necessary.
Interlock switch plunger is not depressed
when clutch pedal is pushed to the floorFloor mat interferes with clutch pedal
movement or clutch pedal bracket is bent.
Problem is related to other components in
the starting circuit.Check other components in the starting
circuit. Refer to Battery/Starting/Charging
System in Group 8.
SPEED CONTROL
DOES NOT
TERMINATE WHEN
CLUTCH PEDAL IS
DEPRESSED BY AT
LEAST 33 mm (1.30
in.)Upstop switch circuit is closed when clutch
pedal is depressed, or harness is shorted.Refer to Upstop Switch Electrical Test in
this group. Repair wiring or replace switch
assembly as necessary.
Other speed control system failure. Refer to Group 8H, Speed Control for
further diagnosis and testing procedures.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
CLUTCH CABLE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery cables.
(2) Remove battery clamp and remove battery
from vehicle.
(3) Remove battery tray from mount bracket.
(4) Remove bellhousing cap (Fig. 7).
(5) Disconnect clutch cable from transaxle housing
and clutch release lever as shown in (Fig. 7).
(6) Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch
pedal spacer (Fig. 8).
NOTE: Use care when handling clutch cable
assembly. Improper handling can cause adjuster
mechanism to come apart, making re-installation
difficult.
(7) Carefully guide cable through pedal assembly
bore and remove from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert the clutch pedal end of the cable into
position and connect the cable to the clutch pedal
spacer as shown in (Fig. 8).
(2) Verify adjuster mechanism function as follows:
(a) With slight pressure, pull the clutch release
lever end of the cable to draw the cable taut.(b) Push the clutch cable housing toward the
dash panel (With less than 25 lbs. of effort, the
cable housing should move 30-50mm.). If the cable
Fig. 7 Clutch Cable at Transaxle
1 ± CLUTCH CABLE
2 ± TRANSAXLE
3 ± BELLHOUSING CAP
PLCLUTCH 6 - 7
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

housing does not move, it is improperly installed or
defective.
(3) Route cable to the transaxle and connect cable
end to the clutch release lever and transaxle housing
(Fig. 7).
(4) Install bellhousing cap (Fig. 7).
(5) Install and fasten battery tray.
(6) Install battery and hold-down clamp.
(7) Connect both battery cables.
(8) Verify that the clutch cable is working properly.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable.
(2) Remove instrument panel assembly. Refer to
Group 8E, Instrument Panel and Systems for the
proper procedure.
(3) Disconnect the clutch interlock/upstop switch
connector (Fig. 9).
NOTE: Proper switch harness routing is critical to
switch durability. Note the harness routing and
location of fasteners intended to keep wires from
contacting pedals.
(4) Remove the interlock/upstop switch assembly
from the brake/clutch pedal bracket assembly by
depressing the four plastic wing tabs on each switch.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install switches into the pedal bracket assem-
bly as shown in (Fig. 9). Route harness as was prior
to removal.
(2) Connect interlock/upstop switch connector.
(3) Install instrument panel assembly. Refer to
Group 8E, Instrument Panel and Systems for the
proper procedure.
(4) Connect battery negative cable.
(5) Verify proper switch operation. Refer to
Description and Operation in this Group.
MODULAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Raise hood.
(2) Disconnect and isolate both battery cables,
remove battery hold down clamp and bolt, and
remove battery.
(3) Remove air cleaner/throttle body assy. (Fig. 10)
as follows:
(a) Disconnect proportional purge solenoid (PPS)
and crankcase vent hose from throttle body.
(b) Disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS) and Idle Air Control (IAC) connectors.
(c) Disconnect throttle body air duct at intake
manifold.
Fig. 8 Clutch Cable at Brake/Clutch Pedal Assembly
1 ± SNAP RING
2 ± CLUTCH PEDAL SPACER
3 ± CLUTCH PEDAL
4 ± CLUTCH CABLE
Fig. 9 Interlock and Upstop Switch Mounting
Locations
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± CLUTCH PEDAL
3 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
4 ± CONNECTOR
6 - 8 CLUTCHPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)