light DODGE NEON 2000 Service Repair Manual

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES................3
SPECIFICATIONS
UNSCHEDULED INSPECTION................3SCHEDULE ± A...........................3
SCHEDULE ± B...........................4
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES
There are two maintenance schedules that show
proper service for your vehicle.
First is Schedule ±A. It lists all the scheduled
maintenance to be performed under ªnormalº operat-
ing conditions.
Second is Schedule ±B. It is a schedule for vehi-
cles that are operated under the following conditions:
²Frequent short trip driving less than 5 miles (8
km)
²Frequent driving in dusty conditions
²Extensive idling
²More than 50% of the driving is at sustained
high speeds during hot weather, above 90É F (32É C)
SPECIFICATIONS
UNSCHEDULED INSPECTION
At Each Stop For Fuel
²Check engine oil level and add as required.
²Check windshield washer solvent and add as
required.
Once A Month
²Check tire pressure and look for unusual wear
or damage.
²Inspect the battery and clean and tighten termi-
nals as required.
²Check fluid levels of coolant reservoir, brake
master cylinder, power steering and transmission.
Add fluid as required.
²Check all lights and all other electrical items for
correct operation.
At Each Oil Change
²Inspect the exhaust system.
²Inspect brake hoses.
²Inspect the CV joints and front suspension com-
ponent boots and seals.²Rotate the tires at each oil change interval
shown on Schedule ± A (7,500 miles - 12 000 km) or
every other interval on Schedule ± B (6,000 miles -
10 000 km).
²Check the engine coolant level, hoses, and
clamps.
If mileage is less than 7,500 miles (12 000 km)
yearly, replace the engine oil filter at each oil change.
EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
The scheduled emission maintenance listed inbold
typeon the Maintenance Schedules, must be done at
the mileage specified to assure the continued proper
functioning of the emission control system. These,
and all other maintenance services included in this
manual, should be done to provide the best vehicle
performance and reliability. More frequent mainte-
nance may be needed for vehicles in severe operating
conditions such as dusty areas and very short trip
driving.
FLUID FILL POINTS AND LUBRICATION
LOCATIONS
The fluid fill/check locations and lubrication loca-
tions are located in each applicable group.
SCHEDULE ± A
7,500 Miles (12 000 km) or at 6 months
²Change the engine oil.
²Replace the engine oil filter.
15,000 Miles (24 000 km) or at 12 months
²Change the engine oil.
²Replace the engine oil filter.
²Adjust the drive belt tension.
22,500 Miles (36 000 km) or at 18 months
²Change the engine oil.
²Replace the engine oil filter.
²Inspect the front brake pads and rear brake lin-
ings.
PLLUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0 - 3

SPECIFICATIONS in this section of this service
manual group.
(4) If the rear alignment is out of specification,
adjust it first before proceeding to the front.
CAMBER AND CASTER
Front and rear camber and caster settings on this
vehicle are determined at the time the vehicle is
designed, by the location of the vehicle's suspension
components. This is referred to as Net Build. The
result is no required adjustment of camber and
caster after the vehicle is built or when servicing the
suspension components. Thus, when performing a
wheel alignment, caster and camber are not normally
considered adjustable angles. Camber and caster
should be checked to ensure they meet vehicle speci-
fications.
If either front or rear camber is found not to meet
alignment specifications, it can be adjusted using an
available camber adjustment bolt package. Before
installing a camber adjustment bolt package on a
vehicle found to be outside the specifications, inspect
the suspension components for any signs of damage
or bending.
No adjustment can be made to the caster setting
on this vehicle. If the vehicle's caster is not within
alignment specifications, check for damaged suspen-
sion components or body parts.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust the vehicles
wheel alignment by heating or bending any of the
suspension components.
CAMBER ADJUSTMENT BOLT PACKAGE INSTALLATION
NOTE: The following procedure should only be
used on vehicles without the ACR competition
package.
The camber adjustment bolt package contains new
bolts and nuts for attaching the strut clevis bracket
to the steering knuckle. The bolts contained in the
package are slightly undersize allowing for move-
ment between the strut clevis bracket and the steer-
ing knuckle. The movement allowed by the undersize
bolts provide approximately two degrees of camber
adjustment per side of the vehicle. To install and
adjust the camber adjustment bolt package, follow
the procedure below.
CAUTION: There are separate camber adjustment
bolt packages for the front and rear of the vehicle.
Be sure to use the correct package.
(1) Raise the vehicle until its tires are not support-
ing the weight of the vehicle.CAUTION: The knuckle to strut assembly attaching
bolt shanks are serrated and must not be turned
during removal. Remove the nuts while holding the
bolts stationary.
(2) Remove the original upper bolt attaching the
strut clevis bracket to the knuckle (Fig. 2) (Fig. 3).
(3) Install a bolt from the adjustment package into
the hole where the original bolt was removed. Install
the bolt from the rear.
Fig. 2 Front Strut Clevis Bracket Attaching Bolts
1 ± STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
2 ± STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET TO STEERING KNUCKLE
ATTACHING BOLTS
3 ± STEERING KNUCKLE
4 ± LOOSEN THIS BOLT
5 ± REMOVE AND REPLACE THIS BOLT
Fig. 3 Rear Strut Clevis Bracket Attaching Bolts
1 ± KNUCKLE
2 ± STRUT ASSEMBLY CLEVIS BRACKET
3 ± CLEVIS BRACKET TO KNUCKLE ATTACHING BOLTS
2 - 6 SUSPENSIONPL
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

BALL JOINT
The lower control arm connects to the steering
knuckle through a ball joint mounted at the outboard
end of the arm (Fig. 1). The ball joint is pressed into
the lower control arm and has a non-tapered stud
with a notch for steering knuckle pinch bolt clear-
ance. The ball joint stud is clamped and locked to the
steering knuckle lower leg using a pinch bolt.
The ball joint is lubricated for life during the man-
ufacturing process. Once lubricated for life, the
grease fitting head is snapped off by the manufac-
turer. This is done to eliminate the possibility of
lubrication later in the ball joints life thus damaging
the non-vented ball joint seal boot.
The ball joint used on this vehicle is replaceable
and, if found defective, can be serviced as a separate
component of the lower control arm.
STABILIZER BAR (FRONT)
The stabilizer bar helps control vehicle body roll.
Jounce and rebound movements affecting one wheel
are partially transmitted to the opposite wheel of the
vehicle to stabilize body roll.
The stabilizer bar interconnects both front lower
control arms of the vehicle and is attached to the
front suspension crossmember (Fig. 1).
Attachment of the stabilizer bar to the front sus-
pension crossmember is through 2 rubber-isolator
cushion and retainers (Fig. 1). The stabilizer bar
attachment to the lower control arm is done by uti-
lizing an isolated stabilizer bar link at each arm. All
components of the stabilizer bar are serviceable.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
STRUT ASSEMBLY (FRONT)
Inspect the strut assembly for the following condi-
tions (Fig. 3):
²Inspect for a damaged or broken coil spring.
²Inspect for a torn or damaged strut assembly
dust shield.²Lift the dust shield and inspect the strut assem-
bly for evidence of fluid running from the upper end
of the strut fluid reservoir. (Actual leakage will be a
stream of fluid running down the side and dripping
off lower end of unit.) A slight amount of seepage
between the strut shaft and strut shaft seal is not
unusual and does not affect performance of the strut
assembly.
²Lift the dust shield and inspect the jounce
bumper for signs of damage or deterioration.
²Inspect the clearance between the shock tower
and the coil spring. Make sure no fasteners are pro-
truding through the shock tower possibly contacting
the coil spring and strut. Because of the minimum
clearance in this area (Fig. 2), installation of metal
fasteners could damage the coil spring coating and
lead to a corrosion failure of the spring.
CAUTION: At no time when servicing a vehicle can
a sheet metal screw, bolt or other metal fastener be
installed into the shock tower to take the place of
an original plastic clip. Also, do not drill holes into
the front shock tower for the installation of any
metal fasteners into the shock tower area indicated
(Fig. 2).
Fig. 2 Shock Tower Area (Typical)
1 ± SHOCK TOWER
2 ± COIL SPRING
3 ± NO SHEET METAL SCREWS, BOLTS, OR ANY OTHER
METAL FASTENERS ARE TO BE INSTALLED INTO SHOCK
TOWER IN THIS AREA. ALSO, NO HOLES ARE TO BE
DRILLED INTO SHOCK TOWER IN THIS SAME AREA.
2 - 12 SUSPENSIONPL
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

The lateral arms are made of stamped steel and
have rubber isolator bushings at each end. The lat-
eral arms are attached to the rear crossmember and
knuckle using a unique bolt and nut assembly at
each end. The lateral arm-to-rear crossmember
attaching bolts are longer than the lateral arm-to-
knuckle attaching bolts. Each lateral arm to knuckle
attaching bolt and nut assembly uses two flat wash-
ers. Each lateral arm to rear crossmember attaching
bolt uses one flat washer and one adjustment cam to
provide a means for rear wheel alignment toe adjust-
ment.
TENSION STRUT
The tension strut controls the fore-and-aft move-
ment of the rear knuckle (Fig. 1).
There is one tension strut per side of the rear sus-
pension. The leading end of the tension strut
attaches to the frame rail while the trailing end of
the strut attaches to the lower end of the rear
knuckle. The tension strut is isolated from the rest of
the rear suspension through the use of rubber bush-
ings located at each end. The rear bushings (bayonet
type) can be serviced separately, the front bushings
(spool type) cannot.
STABILIZER BAR (REAR)
The stabilizer bar interconnects both rear strut
assemblies and is attached to the rear frame rails of
the vehicle (Fig. 3).
The rear stabilizer bar allows jounce and rebound
movements affecting one wheel to be partially trans-
mitted to the opposite wheel of the vehicle to stabi-
lize body roll.Attachment of the stabilizer bar to the rear frame
rails of the vehicle is through two rubber-isolator
cushions and retainers (Fig. 1). The stabilizer bar
attachment to each strut assembly is done utilizing a
rubber isolated stabilizer bar link. All parts of the
stabilizer bar are serviceable, and the stabilizer bar
to frame rail isolator cushions are split for easy
removal and installation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR)
Inspect the strut assembly for the following condi-
tions (Fig. 4):
²Inspect for a damaged or broken coil spring.
²Inspect for a torn or damaged strut assembly
dust shield.
²Lift the dust shield and inspect the strut assem-
bly for evidence of fluid running from the upper end
of the strut fluid reservoir. (Actual leakage will be a
stream of fluid running down the side and dripping
off lower end of unit.) A slight amount of seepage
between the strut shaft and strut shaft seal is not
unusual and does not affect performance of the strut
assembly.
²Lift the dust shield and inspect the jounce
bumper for signs of damage or deterioration.
Fig. 2 Lateral Arms
1 ± REAR STABILIZER BAR
2 ± REAR LATERAL ARMS
3 ± RIGHT FRONT LATERAL ARM
4 ± LEFT FRONT LATERAL ARM
Fig. 3 Rear Stabilizer Bar
1 ± REAR STABILIZER BAR
2 ± REAR LATERAL ARMS
3 ± RIGHT FRONT LATERAL ARM
4 ± LEFT FRONT LATERAL ARM
2 - 38 SUSPENSIONPL
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

Driveshafts used on both the right and left sides of
the vehicle use a tuned rubber damper weight
mounted to the interconnecting shaft (Fig. 1). The
damper weight applications vary by which side of the
vehicle the driveshaft is located on and the transmis-
sion application of the vehicle. When replacing a
driveshaft, be sure the replacement driveshaft has
the same damper weight as the original.
Both driveshaft assemblies use the same type of
inner and outer joints. The inner joint of both drive-
shaft assemblies is a tripod joint, and the outer joint
of both driveshaft assemblies is a Rzeppa joint. Both
tripod joints and Rzeppa joints are true constant
velocity (C/V) joint assemblies. The inner tripod joint
allows for the changes in driveshaft length through
the jounce and rebound travel of the front suspen-
sion.
On vehicles equipped with ABS brakes, the outer
C/V joint is equipped with a tone wheel used to
determine vehicle speed for ABS brake operation.
The inner tripod joint of both driveshafts is splined
into the transaxle side gears. The inner tripod joints
are retained in the side gears of the transaxle using
a snap ring located in the stub shaft of the tripod
joint. The outer C/V joint has a stub shaft that is
splined into the wheel hub and retained by a single
piece steel hub nut (Fig. 2). The hub nut is a locking
style; the nut lock, anti-rattle washer, and cotter pin
are not necessary.NOTE: This vehicle does not use a rubber±lip bear-
ing seal as on previous front±wheel±drive cars to
prevent contamination of the front wheel bearing.
On these vehicles, the face of the outer C/V joint
fits deeply into the steering knuckle, using a close
outer C/V joint±to±steering knuckle fit. This design
deters direct water splash on bearing seal while
allowing any water that gets in, to run out the bot-
tom of the steering knuckle bearing bore. It is
important to thoroughly clean the outer C/V joint
and the wheel bearing area in the steering knuckle
before it is assembled after servicing.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DRIVESHAFT DIAGNOSIS
VEHICLE INSPECTION
(1) Check for grease in the vicinity of the inboard
tripod joint and outboard C/V joint; this is a sign of
inner or outer joint seal boot or seal boot clamp dam-
age.
(2) A light film of grease may appear on the right
inner tripod joint seal boot; this is considered normal
and should not require replacement of the seal boot.
The right inner tripod joint seal boot is made of sili-
cone rubber; which will allow the weeping (sweating)
of the joint lubricant to pass through it while in oper-
ation.
NOISE AND/OR VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise and/or a vibration in turns could
be caused by one of the following conditions.
(1) Damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint seal
boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the loss
and/or contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint.
(2) Noise may also be caused by another compo-
nent of the vehicle coming in contact with the drive-
shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a result of one of the following
conditions:
(1) A torn seal boot on the inner or outer joint of
the driveshaft assembly.
(2) A loose or missing clamp on the inner or outer
joint of the driveshaft assembly.
(3) A damaged or worn driveshaft C/V joint.
Fig. 2 Driveshaft Retaining Nut
1 ± DRIVESHAFT
2 ± HUB
3 ± HUB NUT
3 - 2 DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINEPL
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

CAUTION: The driveshaft, when installed, acts as a
bolt and secures the front hub/bearing assembly. If
vehicle is to be supported or moved on its wheels
with a driveshaft removed, install a PROPER±SIZED
BOLT AND NUT through front hub. Tighten bolt and
nut to 203 N´m (150 ft. lbs.). This will ensure that
the hub bearing cannot loosen.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing
surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal
sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean trans-
mission lubricant.
(2) Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and
interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into tran-
saxle side gear as far as possible by hand.
(3) Carefully align tripod joint with transaxle side
gears. Then grasp driveshaft interconnecting shaft
and push tripod joint into transaxle side gear until
fully seated.Test that snap ring is fully engaged
with side gear by attempting to remove tripod
joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is
fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will
not be removable by hand.
(4) Clean all debris and moisture out of steering
knuckle (Fig. 12).
(5) Ensure that front of outer C/V joint, which fits
into steering knuckle (Fig. 13), is free of debris and
moisture before assembling into steering knuckle.(6) Slide driveshaft back into front hub. Install
steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud (Fig. 14).
NOTE: At this point, the outer joint will not seat
completely into the front hub. The outer joint will be
pulled into hub and seated when the hub nut is
installed and torqued.
(7) Install aNEWsteering knuckle to ball joint
stud bolt and nut (Fig. 14). Tighten the nut and bolt
to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 12 Steering Knuckle to C/V Joint Sealing Area
1 ± STEERING KNUCKLE
2 ± WHEEL BEARING
3 ± FRONT HUB
4 ± THIS AREA OF THE STEERING KNUCKLE IS TO BE FREE
OF ALL DEBRIS AND MOISTURE BEFORE INSTALLING
DRIVE SHAFT IN STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 13 Outer C/V Joint Inspection
1 ± OUTER C/V JOINT
2 ± THIS AREA OF OUTER C/V JOINT MUST BE FREE OF ALL
DEBRIS AND MOISTURE, BEFORE INSTALLATION INTO
STEERING KNUCKLE.
Fig. 14 Driveshaft Installation Into Hub And Steering
Knuckle
1 ± NUT
2 ± BOLT
3 ± BALL JOINT
3 - 6 DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINEPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Proportioning valves balance front to rear braking
by controlling the brake fluid hydraulic pressure to
the rear brakes. Under light pedal application, the
proportioning valve allows normal fluid flow to the
rear brakes. Under higher pedal effort, the valve
reduces fluid pressure to the rear brakes.
The non-antilock master cylinder is a four-outlet
design with two screw-in proportioning valves
attached directly to the master cylinder housing (Fig.
3). One proportioning valve controls each rear brake.
BRAKE TUBES AND HOSES
The purpose of the brake tubes and flex hoses is to
transfer the pressurized brake fluid developed by the
master cylinder to the brakes at each wheel of the
vehicle. The flex hoses connect the chassis brake
tubes, which are mounted to the vehicle's underbody,
to the brake at each wheel, allowing for movement of
the vehicle's suspension. The brake tubes are steel
with a corrosion-resistant nylon coating applied to
the external surfaces. The flex hoses are made of
reinforced rubber.
DISC BRAKES (FRONT)
The front disc brakes consist of the following com-
ponents (Fig. 4):
²Brake caliper - single-piston, floating type
²Brake shoes and linings
²Brake rotorWhen the brakes are applied, fluid pressure is sent
to each brake caliper. The pressure at the caliper is
exerted equally against the caliper piston. The pres-
sure applied to the piston is transmitted directly to
the inboard brake shoe. This forces the shoe lining
against the inner surface of the brake rotor. At the
same time, fluid pressure within the caliper piston
bore forces the caliper to slide inward on its guide
pins. This action brings the outboard shoe lining into
contact with the outer surface of the brake rotor.
This pressure on both sides of the brake rotor causes
friction, bringing the vehicle to a stop.
BRAKE CALIPER
The caliper is a one-piece casting with the inboard
side containing a single piston cylinder bore (Fig. 5).
The front disc brake caliper piston, is manufac-
tured from a phenolic compound. The outside diame-
ter of the caliper piston is 54 mm.
A square-cut rubber piston seal is located in a
machined groove in the caliper cylinder bore. This
provides a hydraulic seal between the piston and the
cylinder wall (Fig. 6). The piston seal is designed to
pull the piston back into the bore of the caliper when
the brake pedal is released. This maintains the
proper brake shoe-to-rotor clearance.
A rubber dust boot is installed in the cylinder bore
opening and in a groove in the piston (Fig. 6). This
prevents contamination in the bore area.
The caliper is mounted to the steering knuckle
using bushings, sleeves and two guide pin bolts (Fig.
5). The guide pin bolts thread directly into bosses on
the steering knuckle.
Two machined abutments on the steering knuckle
position the caliper. The guide pin bolts, sleeves, and
bushings control the side-to-side movement of the
caliper. All of the front brake force generated during
braking of the vehicle is taken up directly by the
steering knuckles of the vehicle.
BRAKE SHOES AND LININGS
There are two brake shoes mounted to each caliper,
one inboard and one outboard (Fig. 5). When brake
shoes are replaced, only brake shoes meeting the
original equipment manufacturer (OEM) formulation
(such as Mopartreplacement parts) should be used.
As front disc brake shoe linings wear, master cyl-
inder reservoir brake fluid level will drop. Fluid level
should be checked after replacing shoes.
Front disc brakes are equipped with an audible
wear indicator on the outboard brake pad (Fig. 5).
This sensor emits a sound when the brake lining
may need inspection or replacement.
Fig. 4 Front Disc Brakes
1 ± STEERING KNUCKLE
2 ± BRAKE PADS AND LININGS
3 ± BRAKE ROTOR
4 ± DRIVING HUB
5 ± CALIPER ASSEMBLY
5 - 4 BRAKESPL
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHARTS
NOTE: There are three diagnosis charts following
that cover the RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP,
BRAKE NOISE and OTHER BRAKE CONDITIONS.
RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
RED BRAKE WARNING
LAMP ON1. Parking brake lever not fully
released.1. Release parking brake lever.
2. Parking brake warning lamp switch
on parking brake lever.2. Inspect and replace switch as necessary.
3. Brake fluid level low in reservoir. 3. Fill reservoir. Check entire system for
leaks. Repair or replace as required.
4. Brake fluid level switch. 4. Disconnect switch wiring connector. If lamp
goes out, replace switch.
5. Mechanical instrument cluster (MIC)
problem.5. Refer to Chassis Diagnostic Procedures
manual.
6. ABS EBD malfunction. 6. Refer to ABS section and Chassis
Diagnostic Procedures manual.
BRAKE NOISE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
DISC BRAKE CHIRP 1. Excessive brake rotor runout. 1. Follow brake rotor diagnosis and testing.
Correct as necessary.
2. Lack of lubricant on brake caliper
slides.2. Lubricate brake caliper slides.
DISC BRAKE RATTLE OR
CLUNK1. Broken or missing anti-rattle spring
clips on shoes.1. Replace brake shoes.
2. Caliper guide pins loose. 2. Tighten guide pins.
DISC BRAKE SQUEAK AT
LOW SPEED (WHILE
APPLYING LIGHT BRAKE
PEDAL EFFORT)1. Brake shoe linings. 1. Replace brake shoes.
DRUM BRAKE CHIRP 1. Lack of lubricant on brake shoe
support plate where shoes ride.1. Lubricate shoe contact areas on brake
shoe support plates.
2. Wheel cylinder out of alignment. 2. Loosen wheel cylinder mounting bolts,
realign wheel cylinder with brake shoes and
tighten mounting bolts.
DRUM BRAKE CLUNK 1. Drum(s) have threaded machined
braking surface.1. Reface or replace drake drums as
necessary.
DRUM BRAKE HOWL OR
MOAN1. Lack of lubricant on brake shoe
support plate where shoes ride and at
the anchor.1. Lubricate shoe contact areas on brake
shoe support plates and at the anchor.
2. Rear brake shoes. 2. Replace rear brake shoes.
DRUM BRAKE SCRAPING
OR WHIRRING1. ABS wheel speed sensor or tone
wheel.1. Inspect, correct or replace faulty
component(s).
SCRAPING (METAL-TO-
METAL).1. Foreign object interference with
brakes.1. Inspect brakes and remove foreign object.
2. Brake shoes worn out. 2. Replace brake shoes. Inspect rotors and
drums. Reface or replace as necessary.
PLBRAKES 5 - 9

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
PEDAL PULSATES/SURGES
DURING BRAKING1. Rear brake drum out of round or
disc brake rotor has excessive
thickness variation.1. Isolate condition as rear or front.
Reface or replace brake drums or rotors
as necessary.
PEDAL IS SPONGY 1. Air in brake lines. 1. Bleed brakes.
2. Power brake booster runout
(vacuum assist).2. Check booster vacuum hose and
engine tune for adequate vacuum supply.
Refer to power brake booster in the
diagnosis and testing section.
PREMATURE REAR WHEEL
LOCKUP1. Contaminated brake shoe linings. 1. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
2. Inoperative proportioning valve
(non-ABS vehicles only).2. Test proportioning valves folowing
procedure listed in diagnosis and testing
section. Replace valves as necessary.
3. ABS EBD not functioning. 3. Refer to the ABS section and Chassis
Diagnostic Procedures manual.
4. Improper power brake booster
assist.4. Refer to power brake booster in the
diagnosis and testing section.
STOP LAMPS STAY ON 1. Brake lamp switch out of
adjustment.1. Adjust brake lamp switch.
2. Brake pedal binding. 2. Inspect and replace as necessary.
3. Obstruction in pedal linkage. 3. Remove obstruction.
4. Power Brake Booster not allowing
pedal to return completely.4. Replace power brake booster.
VEHICLE PULLS TO RIGHT
OR LEFT ON BRAKING1. Frozen brake caliper piston. 1. Replace frozen piston or caliper. Bleed
brakes.
2. Contaminated brake shoe lining. 2. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
3. Pinched brake lines. 3. Replace pinched line.
4. Leaking piston seal. 4. Replace piston seal or brake caliper.
5. Suspension problem. 5. Refer to the Suspension group.
PARKING BRAKE -
EXCESSIVE HANDLE
TRAVEL1. Rear brakes out of adjustment. 1. Adjust rear drum brake shoes, or rear
parking brake shoes on vehicles with rear
disc brakes.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
BASIC TEST
(1) With engine off, depress and release the brake
pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the
power brake booster.
(2) Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15
to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine.
The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort
should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If
the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM
LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST. If thepedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC
TEST.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the side of the
vacuum check valve that leads to the speed control,
then connect a vacuum gauge to the open vacuum
port on the valve.
(4) Start the engine.
(5) When the engine is at warm operating temper-
ature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the
gauge.
PLBRAKES 5 - 11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

If the vacuum supply is 12 inches Hg (40.5 kPa) or
more, the power brake booster is defective and must
be replaced. If the vacuum supply is below 12 inches,
continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(6) Shut off the engine.
(7) Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum ref-
erence port on the engine intake manifold.
(8)
Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum is still low, check the engine tune
and repair as necessary. If the vacuum is above 12
inches, the hose or check to the booster has a restric-
tion or leak.
Once an adequate vacuum supply is obtained,
repeat the BASIC TEST.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the side of the
power brake booster vacuum check valve that leads
to the speed control, then connect a vacuum gauge to
the open vacuum port on the valve.
(2) Remove the remaining hose on the vacuum
check valve that is not the vacuum supply hose com-
ing from the intake manifold. Cap off the open port
on the check valve.
(3) Start the engine.
(4) Allow the engine to warm up to normal operat-
ing temperature and engine idle.
(5) Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum
supply hose near the booster and observe the vacuum
gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa)
in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 1.0
inch Hg in one minute time span. If the loss is more
than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If
it is not, continue on with this test.
(6) Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.
(7) Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of
force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady.
Do not move the pedal once the pressure is applied
or the test results may vary.
(8) Have an assistant reattach the pliers to the
vacuum supply hose.
(9) Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe
the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa)
in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 3.0
inches Hg in 15 seconds time span. If the loss is
more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake
booster. If it is not, the booster is not defective.
DRUM BRAKE AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER
To properly test the drum brake automatic
adjuster, the aide of a helper inside the vehicle to
apply the brakes will be necessary.(1) Raise the vehicle. Refer to HOISTING in the
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE group for the
proper lifting procedure.
(2) Remove the access plug from the rear adjust-
ment slot in each brake support plate.
(3) Insert a thin screwdriver in the adjustment
slot and push back the adjustment lever. With the
lever in this position, back the star wheel adjustment
off approximately 10 notches. This will eliminate the
possibility that the brake is at full adjustment, and
can be adjusted no further.
(4)
Remove the screwdriver from the adjustment slot.
(5) Watch the star wheel through the adjustment
slot, while a helper applies the brake pedal. As the
brake shoes apply, the adjustment lever should move
downward, turning the star wheel. A definite rotation
of the adjuster star wheel can be observed if the
automatic adjuster is working properly.
If the star wheel does not move as indicated, the
brake drum needs to be removed and further inspec-
tion of the rear brakes is necessary.
(6) If the star wheel is operating properly, readjust
the brakes. Refer to ADJUSTMENTS in this section
of this service manual group.
(7) Reinstall the adjustment slot access plug.
(8) Lower the vehicle.
BRAKE ROTOR
Any servicing of the rotor requires extreme care to
maintain the rotor within service tolerances to
ensure proper brake action.
Excessive runout or wobble in a rotor can increase
pedal travel due to piston knock-back. This increases
guide pin sleeve wear due to the tendency of the cal-
iper to follow the rotor wobble.
When diagnosing a brake noise or pulsation, the
machined disc braking surface should be checked and
inspected.
BRAKING SURFACE INSPECTION
Light braking surface scoring and wear is accept-
able. If heavy scoring or warping is evident, the rotor
must be refaced or replaced. Refer to SERVICE PRO-
CEDURES in this section of this group for informa-
tion on brake rotor machining.
Excessive wear and scoring of the rotor can cause
improper lining contact on the rotor's braking sur-
face. If the ridges on the rotor are not removed before
new brake shoes are installed, improper wear of the
shoes will result.
If a vehicle has not been driven for a period of
time, the rotor's braking surface will rust in the
areas not covered by the brake shoes at that time.
Once the vehicle is driven, noise and chatter from
the disc brakes can result when the brakes are
applied.
5 - 12 BRAKESPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)