light DODGE NEON 2000 Service User Guide

(6) Install the pin on the parking brake lever into
hole in rear brake shoe assembly (Fig. 86).
(7) Install both brake shoe-to-brake support plate
hold down pins and clips (Fig. 81).
(8) Install the lower brake shoe-to-anchor plate
return spring (Fig. 82).
(9) Install the automatic adjustment lever on the
leading brake shoe (Fig. 80).(10) Install the automatic adjustment lever-to-
brake shoe spring (Fig. 79).
(11) Adjust the brake shoes out until the drum
lightly drags on the shoes when it is installed. Do not
over-adjust the brakes.
(12) Install the brake drum (Fig. 78).
(13) Repeat the above procedure to the rear brakes
on the other side of the vehicle.
(14) Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten
the wheel mounting nuts to a torque of 135 N´m (100
ft. lbs.).
(15) Adjust the rear brake shoes. Refer to
ADJUSTMENTS in this section of this service man-
ual group.
(16) Lower the vehicle.
(17) Road test vehicle stopping in both the forward
and reverse directions. The automatic adjuster will
continue to adjust the brakes during the road test of
the vehicle.
BRAKE DRUM (REAR)
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle. Refer to HOISTING in the
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE group for the
proper lifting procedure.
(2) Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly from
the vehicle.
(3) Remove the brake drum retaining clips (if
equipped) (Fig. 87).
Fig. 85 Shoe Contact Areas on Support Plate
Fig. 86 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retaining Clip
Installation
1 ± BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY
2 ± RETAINING CLIP
3 ± SCREWDRIVER
4 ± PARK BRAKE LEVER
5 ± PARK BRAKE LEVER PIN
Fig. 87 Drum Brakes
1 ± DUST CAP
2 ± NUT
3 ± DRUM
4 ± HUB AND BEARING
5 ± WHEEL CYLINDER
6 ± SEAL
7 ± SUPPORT PLATE
8 ± BRAKE SHOES
9 ± RETAINER CLIP
PLBRAKES 5 - 45
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

CALIPER PISTON AND SEALS
CALIPER PISTON REMOVAL
WARNING: UNDER NO CONDITION SHOULD HIGH
PRESSURE AIR EVER BE USED TO REMOVE A PIS-
TON FROM A CALIPER BORE. PERSONAL INJURY
COULD RESULT FROM SUCH A PRACTICE.
NOTE: The safest way to remove the piston from
the caliper bore is to use the hydraulic pressure of
the vehicle's brake system.
(1) Following the removal procedure in DISC
BRAKE SHOES found in this section, remove the
caliper from the brake rotor and hang the assembly
on a wire hook away from rotor and body of the vehi-
cle so brake fluid cannot get on these components.
Remove the brake shoes, and place a small piece of
wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
(2) Carefully depress the brake pedal to hydrauli-
cally push piston out of its bore. Once completed,
apply and hold down the brake pedal to any position
beyond the first inch of pedal travel using a brake
pedal holding tool. This will prevent the fluid in the
master cylinder reservoir from completely draining
out.(3) Disconnect the brake fluid flex hose from the
caliper assembly and remove it from the vehicle.
CALIPER SEAL REMOVAL
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamp-
ing caliper in vise. Excessive vise pressure will
cause bore distortion.
(1) To disassemble the caliper, mount it in a vise
equipped with protective jaws.
(2) Remove the piston dust boot from the caliper
and discard (Fig. 118).
NOTE: Do not use a screw driver or other metal
tool for seal removal. Using such tools can scratch
the bore or leave burrs on the seal groove edges.
(3) Using a soft tool such as a plastic trim stick,
work the piston seal out of its groove in caliper pis-
ton bore (Fig. 119). Discard the old seal.
(4) Clean the piston bore and drilled passage ways
using alcohol or a suitable solvent. Wipe it dry using
only a lint-free cloth.
(5) Inspect the piston bore for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usu-
ally be cleared of the light scratches or corrosion
using crocus cloth. Bores that have deep scratches or
scoring should be honed. Use Caliper Hone, Special
Tool C-4095, or the equivalent to hone the bore. Do
Fig. 117 Correctly Installed Guide Pin Sleeve And
Bushing
1 ± CALIPER
2 ± BUSHING
3 ± SLEEVE
Fig. 118 Removing Caliper/Piston Dust Boot
1 ± CALIPER
2 ± SCREWDRIVER
3 ± BOOT
PLBRAKES 5 - 57
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

(4) Insert a brake adjustment tool, or a screw-
driver, through the adjusting hole in support plate
and against the star wheel of the adjuster screw.
Move the handle of tool downward to adjust the
brake drag. Rotate the tire and wheel assembly while
adjusting the adjuster screw. Continue to adjust the
shoes until a slight drag is noticed when the tire and
wheel assembly is rotated.
NOTE: In the event the brake shoes are over-ad-
justed, the adjuster can be backed off using the fol-
lowing step. If not, proceed to step 6.
(5) If the shoes are in the over-adjusted position,
insert a thin screwdriver into brake adjusting hole
and push back the adjusting lever out of engagement
with star wheel (Fig. 127). Take care not to bend the
adjusting lever. While holding the adjusting lever out
of engagement with star wheel, back off the star
wheel until the tire and wheel assembly is free to
turn without dragging. Repeat the adjustment proce-
dure.
(6) Install adjusting hole rubber plug (Fig. 126).
(7) Repeat the above adjustment procedure to the
other side brakes.
(8) Apply and release the park brake lever one
time after the adjustment process is completed so the
parking brakes can readjust themselves to the new
brake shoe adjustment.
PARKING BRAKE SHOES (REAR DISC BRAKES)
NOTE: The parking brake shoes used in the drum-
in-hat park brake system do not automatically
adjust to compensate for brake shoe lining wear.Therefore, it is necessary to manually adjust the
parking brake shoes.
(1) Verify the parking brake lever is in the
released position.
(2) Raise the vehicle. Refer to HOISTING in the
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE group for the
proper lifting procedure.
(3) Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting
hole in the disc brake caliper adapter.
(4) Adjust the parking brakes. Use the first bullet
point for the adjustment of the left side parking
brake shoes. Use the second bullet point for the
adjustment of the right side parking brake shoes.
²Insert a medium size screwdriver through
adjustment hole in the left backing plate. Position
the screwdriver against the star wheel on the park-
ing brake shoe adjuster. Using the screwdriver,
rotate the star wheel downward until a slight drag is
noticed when turning the rear tire and wheel assem-
bly. Then, using the screwdriver, slowly rotate the
star wheel upward, backing off the adjuster, just
enough to allow the rear tire and wheel assembly to
rotate without the parking brake shoes dragging. Do
not back off the adjuster star wheel more than two
clicks past the point of no drag. The parking brake
shoe-to-drum clearance is now properly set.
²Insert a medium size screwdriver through
adjustment hole in the right backing plate. Position
the screwdriver against the star wheel on the park-
ing brake shoe adjuster. Using the screwdriver,
rotate the star wheel upward until a slight drag is
noticed when turning the rear tire and wheel assem-
bly. Then, using the screwdriver, slowly rotate the
star wheel downward, backing off the adjuster, just
enough to allow the rear tire and wheel assembly to
rotate without the parking brake shoes dragging. Do
not back off the adjuster star wheel more that two
clicks past the point of no drag. The parking brake
shoe-to-drum clearance is now properly set.
(5) Install the rubber plug in the adjusting holes of
the disc brake caliper adapter.
(6) Lower the vehicle until the rear tires are just
clearing the floor.
(7) Reach inside the vehicle and fully apply and
release the park brakes two times after adjusting the
parking brake shoes.
(8) With the parking brake lever in the fully
applied position, attempt to hand rotate each rear
tire and wheel assembly to ensure that the parking
brake shoes are working.
(9) With the parking brake lever in the released
position, hand rotate each rear tire and wheel assem-
bly to ensure that the parking brake shoes are not
dragging.
Fig. 127 Backing Off Brake Adjuster Screw
1 ± MEDIUM SCREWDRIVER
2 ± BRAKE ADJUSTING HOLE
3 ± THIN SCREWDRIVER OR WELDING ROD
5 - 62 BRAKESPL
ADJUSTMENTS (Continued)

NOISE AND BRAKE PEDAL FEEL
During ABS braking, some brake pedal movement
may be felt. In addition, ABS braking will create
ticking, popping, or groaning noises heard by the
driver. This is normal and is due to pressurized fluid
being transferred between the master cylinder and
the brakes. If ABS operation occurs during hard
braking, some pulsation may be felt in the vehicle
body due to fore-and-aft movement of the suspension
as brake pressures are modulated.
At the end of an ABS stop, ABS is turned off when
the vehicle is slowed to a speed of 3±4 mph. There
may be a slight brake pedal drop anytime that the
ABS is deactivated, such as at the end of the stop
when the vehicle speed is less than 3 mph or during
an ABS stop where ABS is no longer required. These
conditions exist when a vehicle is being stopped on a
road surface with patches of ice, loose gravel, or sand
on it. Also, stopping a vehicle on a bumpy road sur-
face activates ABS because of the wheel hop caused
by the bumps.
TIRE NOISE AND MARKS
Although the ABS system prevents complete wheel
lockup, some wheel slip is desired in order to achieve
optimum braking performance. Wheel slip is defined
as follows: 0 percent slip means the wheel is rolling
freely and 100 percent slip means the wheel is fully
locked. During brake pressure modulation, wheel slip
is allowed to reach up to 25±30 percent. This means
that the wheel rolling velocity is 25±30 percent less
than that of a free rolling wheel at a given vehicle
speed. This slip may result in some tire chirping,
depending on the road surface. This sound should not
be interpreted as total wheel lockup.
Complete wheel lockup normally leaves black tire
marks on dry pavement. The ABS will not leave dark
black tire marks since the wheel never reaches a
fully locked condition. However, tire marks may be
noticeable as light patched marks.
START-UP CYCLE
When the ignition is turned on, a popping sound
and a slight brake pedal movement may be noticed.
The ABS warning lamp will also be on for up to 5
seconds after the ignition is turned on. When the
vehicle is first driven off, a humming may be heard
or felt by the driver at approximately 20±40 kph
(12±25 mph). All of these conditions are a normal
function of ABS as the system is performing a diag-
nosis check.
PREMATURE ABS CYCLING
Symptoms of premature ABS cycling include: click-
ing sounds from the solenoid valves; pump/motor
running; and pulsations in the brake pedal. Prema-ture ABS cycling can occur at any braking rate of the
vehicle and on any type of road surface. Neither the
red BRAKE warning lamp, nor the amber ABS warn-
ing lamp, illuminate and no fault codes are stored in
the CAB.
Premature ABS cycling is a condition that needs to
be correctly assessed when diagnosing problems with
the antilock brake system. It may be necessary to use
a DRB scan tool to detect and verify premature ABS
cycling.
Check the following common causes when diagnos-
ing premature ABS cycling: damaged tone wheels;
incorrect tone wheels; damaged steering knuckle
wheel speed sensor mounting bosses; loose wheel
speed sensor mounting bolts; excessive tone wheel
runout; or an excessively large tone wheel-to-wheel
speed sensor air gap. Give special attention to these
components when diagnosing a vehicle exhibiting
premature ABS cycling.
After diagnosing the defective component, repair or
replace it as required. When the component repair or
replacement is completed, test drive the vehicle to
verify that premature ABS cycling has been cor-
rected.
ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM COMPONENTS
The following is a detailed description of the
antilock brake system components. For information
on servicing base brake system components used in
conjunction with these components, see the BASE
BRAKE SYSTEM found at the beginning of this ser-
vice manual group.
MASTER CYLINDER
A vehicle equipped with ABS uses a different mas-
ter cylinder than a vehicle that is not equipped with
ABS. Vehicles equipped with ABS use a center port
master cylinder with only two outlet ports (Fig. 1).
The brake tubes from the primary and secondary
outlet ports on the master cylinder go directly to the
integrated control unit (ICU).
The master cylinder mounts to the power brake
booster in the same manner a non-ABS master cylin-
der does.
INTEGRATED CONTROL UNIT (ICU)
The hydraulic control unit (HCU) and the control-
ler antilock brake (CAB) used with this antilock
brake system are combined (integrated) into one
unit, which is called the integrated control unit (ICU)
(Fig. 2). The ICU is located on the driver's side of the
vehicle, and is mounted to the left front frame rail
below the master cylinder (Fig. 1).
5 - 66 BRAKESPL
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
SERVICE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS
The ABS uses an electronic control module, the
CAB. This module is designed to withstand normal
current draws associated with vehicle operation.
Care must be taken to avoid overloading the CAB
circuits.
CAUTION: In testing for open or short circuits, do
not ground or apply voltage to any of the circuits
unless instructed to do so for a diagnostic proce-
dure.
CAUTION: These circuits should only be tested
using a high impedance multi-meter or the DRB
scan tool as described in this section. Power
should never be removed or applied to any control
module with the ignition in the ON position. Before
removing or connecting battery cables, fuses, or
connectors, always turn the ignition to the OFF
position.
CAUTION: Use only factory wiring harnesses. Do
not cut or splice wiring to the brake circuits. The
addition of after-market electrical equipment (car
phone, radar detector, citizen band radio, trailer
lighting, trailer brakes, etc.) on a vehicle equipped
with antilock brakes may affect the function of the
antilock brake system.
ABS GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS INFORMATION
This section contains information necessary to
diagnose the antilock brake system. Specifically, this
section should be used to help diagnose conditions
which result in any of the following:
(1) amber ABS warning lamp turned on.
(2) brakes lock-up on hard application.
Diagnosis of base brake conditions that are obvi-
ously mechanical in nature should be directed to
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM at the beginning of this
group.
Many ABS conditions judged to be a problem by
the driver may be normal operating conditions. See
ABS OPERATION in the DESCRIPTION AND
OPERATION section of this group to become famil-
iarized with the normal characteristics of this
antilock brake system.
ABS WIRING DIAGRAM INFORMATION
During the diagnosis and testing of the antilock
brake system it may become necessary to reference
the wiring diagrams covering the antilock brake sys-
tem and its components. For wiring diagrams refer to
GROUP 8W of this service manual. It will provide
you with the wiring diagrams and the circuit descrip-
tion and operation information covering the antilock
brake system.
ABS VEHICLE TEST DRIVE
Most ABS complaints will require a test drive to
properly duplicate and diagnose the condition.
WARNING: CONDITIONS THAT RESULT IN TURN-
ING ON THE RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP MAY
INDICATE REDUCED BRAKING ABILITY.
Before test driving a brake complaint vehicle, note
whether the red BRAKE warning lamp, amber ABS
warning lamp, or both are turned on. If it is the red
BRAKE warning lamp, there is a brake hydraulic
problem that must be corrected before driving the
vehicle. Refer to the BASE BRAKE SYSTEM for
diagnosis of the red BRAKE warning lamp. If the red
brake warning lamp is illuminated, there is also a
possibility that there is an ABS problem and the
amber ABS warning lamp is not able to illuminate,
so the MIC turns on the red Brake warning lamp by
default.
If the amber ABS warning lamp is on, test drive
the vehicle as described below. While the amber ABS
warning lamp is on, the ABS is not functional. The
ability to stop the car using the base brake system
should not be affected.
If a functional problem of the ABS is determined
while test driving the vehicle, refer to the Chassis
Diagnostic Procedures manual.
(1) Turn the key to the OFF position and then
back to the ON position. Note whether the amber
ABS warning lamp continues to stay on. If it does,
refer to the diagnostic manual.
(2) If the amber ABS warning lamp goes out, shift
into gear and drive the car to a speed of 20 kph (12
mph) to complete the ABS start-up and drive-off
cycles (see ABS ELECTRONIC DIAGNOSIS). If at
this time the amber ABS warning lamp comes on,
refer to the diagnostic manual.
(3) If the amber ABS warning lamp remains out,
drive the vehicle a short distance. Accelerate the
vehicle to a speed of at least 40 mph. Bring the vehi-
cle to a complete stop, braking hard enough to cause
the ABS to cycle. Again accelerate the vehicle past 25
mph. Refer to the diagnostic manual for further test-
ing of the antilock brake system.
5 - 74 BRAKESPL

ABS ELECTRONIC DIAGNOSIS
The following information is presented to give the
technician a general background on the diagnostic
capabilities of the ABS system. Complete electronic
diagnosis of the ABS system used on this vehicle is
covered in the Chassis Diagnostic Procedures manual.
Electronic diagnosis of the ABS system used on
this vehicle is performed using the DRBIIItscan
tool. The vehicle's scan tool diagnostic connector is
located under the steering column lower cover, to the
left side of the steering column (Fig. 10).
ABS SELF-DIAGNOSIS
The ABS system is equipped with a self-diagnosis
capability, which may be used to assist in the isola-
tion of ABS faults. The features are described below.
START-UP CYCLE
The self-diagnosis ABS start-up cycle begins when
the ignition switch is turned to the ON position.
Electrical checks are completed on ABS components,
including the CAB, solenoid continuity, and the relay
system operation. During this check the amber ABS
warning lamp is turned on for approximately 5 sec-
onds and the brake pedal may emit a popping sound,
moving slightly when the solenoid valves are
checked.
DRIVE-OFF CYCLE
The first time the vehicle is set in motion after an
ignition off/on cycle, the drive-off cycle occurs. This
cycle is performed when the vehicle reaches a speed
of approximately 20 kph (12 mph.).²The pump/motor is briefly activated to verify
function. When the pump/motor is briefly activated, a
whirling or buzzing sound may be heard by the
driver. This sound is normal, indicating the pump/
motor is running.
²The wheel speed sensor output correct operating
range is verified.
ONGOING TESTS
While the system is operating, these tests are per-
formed on a continuous basis:
²solenoid continuity
²wheel speed sensor continuity
²wheel speed sensor output
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTC's)
Diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) are kept in the
controller's memory until either erased by the techni-
cian using the DRB, or erased automatically after
3500 miles or 255 ignition key cycles, whichever
occurs first. DTC's are retained by the controller
even if the ignition is turned off or the battery is dis-
connected. More than one DTC can be stored at a
time. When accessed, the number of occurrences
(ignition key cycles) and the DTC that is stored are
displayed. Most functions of the CAB and the ABS
system can be accessed by the technician for testing
and diagnostic purposes using the DRB.
LATCHING VERSUS NON-LATCHING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE
CODES
Some DTC's detected by the CAB are ªlatchingº
codes. The DTC is latched and ABS braking is dis-
abled until the ignition switch is reset. Thus, ABS
braking is non-operational even if the original DTC
has disappeared. Other DTC's are non-latching. Any
warning lamps that are turned on are only turned on
as long as the DTC condition exists; as soon as the
condition goes away, the amber ABS warning lamp is
turned off, although, in most cases, a DTC is set.
INTERMITTENT DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
As with virtually any electronic system, intermit-
tent electrical problems in the ABS system may be
difficult to accurately diagnose. Most intermittent
electrical problems are caused by faulty electrical
connections or wiring. A visual inspection should be
done before trying to diagnose or service the antilock
brake system; this will eliminate unnecessary diag-
nosis and testing time. Perform a visual inspection
for loose, disconnected, damaged, or misrouted wires
or connectors; include the following components and
areas of the vehicle in the inspection.
(1) Inspect fuses in the power distribution center
(PDC) and the wiring junction block. Verify that all
fuses are fully inserted into the PDC and wiring
Fig. 10 ABS System Diagnostic Connector Location
1 ± DRIVER AIRBAG MODULE
2 ± PASSENGER AIRBAG MODULE
3 ± DATA LINK CONNECTOR
PLBRAKES 5 - 75
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐCLUTCH GRAB/CHATTER
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLUTCH DISC
FACING COVERED
WITH OIL OR
GREASEOil leak at engine rear main or transaxle
input shaft sealCorrect leak and replace modular clutch
assembly
Too much grease applied to splines of disc
and input shaftApply lighter coating of grease to splines
NO FAULT FOUND
WITH CLUTCH
COMPONENTSProblem actually related to suspension or
driveline componentFurther diagnosis required. Check
engine/transmission mounts, suspension
attaching parts and other driveline
components as needed.
Engine related problems Check EFI and ignition systems
PARTIAL
ENGAGEMENT OF
CLUTCH DISCClutch cover, spring, or release fingers
bent, distorted (rough handling, improper
assembly)Replace modular clutch assembly
Clutch disc damaged or distorted Replace modular clutch assembly
Clutch misalignment Check alignment and runout of flywheel,
disc, or cover. Check clutch housing to
engine dowels and dowel holes for damage.
Correct as necessary.
SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐCLUTCH SLIPS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
DISC FACING
WORN OUTNormal wear. Replace modular clutch assembly.
Driver frequently rides (slips) clutch, results
in rapid wear overheating.Replace modular clutch assembly
Insufficient clutch cover diaphragm spring
tensionReplace modular clutch assembly
CLUTCH DISC
FACING
CONTAMINATED
WITH OIL OR
GREASELeak at rear main oil seal or transaxle input
shaft sealReplace leaking seals. Replace modular
clutch assembly.
Excessive amount of grease applied to
input shaft splinesApply less grease to input shaft. Replace
modular clutch assembly
Road splash, water entering housing Seal housing. Inspect clutch assembly.
CLUTCH IS
RUNNING
PARTIALLY
DISENGAGEDRelease bearing sticking or binding, does
not return to normal running position.Verify that bearing is actually binding. Then,
replace bearing and transmission front
bearing retainer if sleeve surface is
damaged.
Cable self-adjuster mechanism sticking or
binding causing high preloadVerify that self-adjuster is free to move
PLCLUTCH 6 - 3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

DRIVE PLATE MISALIGNMENT
Common causes of misalignment are:
²Heat warping
²Mounting drive plate on a dirty crankshaft
flange
²Incorrect bolt tightening
²Improper seating on the crankshaft shoulder
²Loose crankshaft bolts
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
drive plate. Dirt and grease on the flange surface
may misalign the flywheel, causing excessive runout.
Use new bolts when mounting drive plate to crank-
shaft. Tighten drive plate bolts to specified torque
only. Over-tightening can distort the drive plate hub
causing excessive runout.
CLUTCH CHATTER COMPLAINTS
For all clutch chatter complaints, do the following:
(1) Check for loose, misaligned, or broken engine
and transmission mounts. If present, they should be
corrected at this time. Test vehicle for chatter. If
chatter is gone, there is no need to go any further. If
chatter persists:
(2) Check to see if clutch cable routing is correct
and operates smoothly.
(3) Check for loose connections in drive train. Cor-
rect any problems and determine if clutch chatter
complaints have been satisfied. If not:
(4) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle for procedure.
(5) Check to see if the release bearing is sticky or
binding. Replace bearing, if needed.
(6) Check linkage for excessive wear on the pivot
stud and fork fingers. Replace all worn parts.
(7) Check clutch assembly for contamination (dirt,
oil). Replace clutch assembly, if required.
(8) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged. Replace with new clutch assembly, if nec-
essary.
(9) Check input shaft splines for damage. Replace,
if necessary.
(10) Check for uneven wear on clutch fingers.
(11) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm
spring fingers. Replace with new clutch assembly, if
necessary.
CLASH±INTO±REVERSE COMPLAINTS
Certain NV T350 (A-578) manual transaxles are
equipped with a reverse brake. It prevents clash
when shifting into reverse, but only if the vehicle is
not moving. See Group 21, Transaxle for further
diagnosis.
(1) Depress clutch pedal to floor and hold. After
three seconds, shift to reverse. If clash is present,
clutch has excessive spin time, and the reverse brake
may not be functioning.(2) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Tran-
saxle for procedure.
(3) Check the input shaft spline, clutch disc
splines, and release bearing for dry rust. If present,
clean rust off and apply a light coat of bearing grease
to the input shaft splines. Apply grease on the input
shaft splines only where the clutch disc slides. Verify
that the clutch disc slides freely along the input shaft
spline.
(4) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are
damaged, and replace with new clutch assembly if
required.
(5) Check the input shaft for damaged splines.
Replace as necessary.
(6) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm
spring fingers.
(7) Install clutch assembly and transaxle.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
The clutch interlock/upstop switch is an assembly
consisting of two switches: an engine starter inhibit
switch (clutch interlock) and a clutch pedal upstop
switch (Fig. 5). The switch assembly is located in the
clutch/brake pedal bracket assembly (Fig. 6), each
switch being fastened by four plastic wing tabs.
CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH
Mechanical Test
(1) With the park brake set and the transaxleIN
NEUTRAL,turn the ignition key to the start posi-
tion. The engine starter should not crank with the
clutch pedal at rest (not depressed). If the starter
cranks, proceed to the electrical test to determine
whether the switch is defective or the circuit is
shorted. If the vehicle does not crank, proceed to the
next step.
(2) With the park brake set and the transaxleIN
NEUTRAL,fully depress the clutch pedal and turn
Fig. 5 Clutch Interlock/Upstop Switch
1 ± UPSTOP SWITCH
2 ± INTERLOCK SWITCH
3 ± CONNECTOR
PLCLUTCH 6 - 5
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS±CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP SWITCH
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE STARTER
WON'T CRANK
WHEN CLUTCH
PEDAL IS
PRESSED TO THE
FLOORClutch interlock switch does not have
continuity when plunger is depressed 1.25
mm (1.30 in.)Defective switch or open wiring circuit.
Replace switch if necessary.
Interlock switch plunger is not depressed
when clutch pedal is pushed to the floorFloor mat interferes with clutch pedal
movement or clutch pedal bracket is bent.
Problem is related to other components in
the starting circuit.Check other components in the starting
circuit. Refer to Battery/Starting/Charging
System in Group 8.
SPEED CONTROL
DOES NOT
TERMINATE WHEN
CLUTCH PEDAL IS
DEPRESSED BY AT
LEAST 33 mm (1.30
in.)Upstop switch circuit is closed when clutch
pedal is depressed, or harness is shorted.Refer to Upstop Switch Electrical Test in
this group. Repair wiring or replace switch
assembly as necessary.
Other speed control system failure. Refer to Group 8H, Speed Control for
further diagnosis and testing procedures.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
CLUTCH CABLE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery cables.
(2) Remove battery clamp and remove battery
from vehicle.
(3) Remove battery tray from mount bracket.
(4) Remove bellhousing cap (Fig. 7).
(5) Disconnect clutch cable from transaxle housing
and clutch release lever as shown in (Fig. 7).
(6) Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch
pedal spacer (Fig. 8).
NOTE: Use care when handling clutch cable
assembly. Improper handling can cause adjuster
mechanism to come apart, making re-installation
difficult.
(7) Carefully guide cable through pedal assembly
bore and remove from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert the clutch pedal end of the cable into
position and connect the cable to the clutch pedal
spacer as shown in (Fig. 8).
(2) Verify adjuster mechanism function as follows:
(a) With slight pressure, pull the clutch release
lever end of the cable to draw the cable taut.(b) Push the clutch cable housing toward the
dash panel (With less than 25 lbs. of effort, the
cable housing should move 30-50mm.). If the cable
Fig. 7 Clutch Cable at Transaxle
1 ± CLUTCH CABLE
2 ± TRANSAXLE
3 ± BELLHOUSING CAP
PLCLUTCH 6 - 7
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

RELEASE BEARING AND FORK
Remove the transaxle from the vehicle. See Group
21, Transaxle for removal and installation proce-
dures.
REMOVAL
(1) Move the lever and bearing assembly to a ver-
tical in-line position. Grasp the release lever with
two hands in the pivot stud socket area. Pull with
even pressure and the lever will pop off the pivot±
stud. Do not use a screwdriver or pry bar to pop off
the lever. This may damage the spring clip on the
lever.
(2) As a unit, remove the fork from the bearing
thrust plate. Be careful not to damage retention tabs
on bearing.
(3) Examine the condition of the bearing.It is
pre-lubricated and sealed and should not be
immersed in oil or solvent.
(4) The bearing should turn smoothly when held in
the hand under a light thrust load. A light drag
caused by the lubricant fill is normal. If the bearing
is noisy, rough, or dry, replace the complete bearing
assembly with a new bearing.
(5) Check the condition of the pivot stud spring
clips on back side of clutch fork. If the clips are bro-
ken or distorted, replace the clutch fork.
INSTALLATION
(1) The pivot ball pocket in the fork, as well as the
fork arms should be lubricated with grease prior to
installation.
(2) Assemble the fork to the bearing. The small
pegs on the bearing must go over the fork arms.
(3) Slide the bearing and fork assembly onto the
input shaft bearing retainer, as a unit.
(4) Snap the clutch fork onto the pivot ball.
(5) Reinstall transaxle assembly. Refer to Group
21, Transaxle for further information.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, grease, water, or other fluids on
the clutch contact surfaces will cause faulty opera-
tion.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated. Look for evidence of oil, grease, or water/
road splash on clutch components.
OIL CONTAMINATION
Oil contamination indicates a leak at the rear main
seal and/or transaxle input shaft. Oil leaks produce a
residue of oil on the transaxle housing interior, clutch
Fig. 18 Transaxle Removal/Installation
1 ± MODULAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
2 ± CLIP3 ± TRANSAXLE
4 ± CLUTCH MODULE BOLT (4)
VIEW A
6 - 12 CLUTCHPL
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)