DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

(3) Remove the timing chains and tensioners
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the four bolts, primary timing chain
tensioner and the oil pump.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove oil pump cover screws and lift off cover
plate.
(2) Remove pump inner and outer rotors.
NOTE: Once the oil pressure relief valve, cup plug,
and pin are removed, the pump assembly must be
replaced.
(3) If it is necessary to remove the pressure relief
valve, drive the roll pin from pump housing and
remove cup plug, spring and valve.
INSPECTION
CAUTION: Oil pump pressure relief valve and spring
should not be removed from the oil pump. If these com-
ponents are disassembled and or removed from the
pump the entire oil pump assembly must be replaced.
(1) Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of
the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the pump
cover is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly
should be replaced.
(2) Lay a straight edge across the pump cover sur-
face (Fig. 76). If a 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) feeler gauge
can be inserted between the cover and the straight
edge the oil pump assembly should be replaced.(3) Measure the thickness of the outer rotor (Fig.
77). If the outer rotor thickness measures at 12.005
mm (0.472 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be
replaced.
(4) Measure the diameter of the outer rotor. If the
outer rotor diameter measures at 85.925 mm (3.382
in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
(5) Measure the thickness of the inner rotor (Fig.
78). If the inner rotor thickness measures at 12.005
mm (0.472 in.) or less then the oil pump assembly
must be replaced.
Fig. 76 Checking Oil Pump Cover Flatness
1 - STRAIGHT EDGE
2 - FEELER GAUGE
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
Fig. 77 Measuring Outer Rotor Thickness
Fig. 78 Measuring Inner Rotor Thickness
9 - 68 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
OIL PUMP (Continued)

(6) Slide outer rotor into the body of the oil pump.
Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body
and measure clearance between the outer rotor and
the body (Fig. 79). If the measurement is 0.235mm
(0.009 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be
replaced.
(7) Install the inner rotor in the into the oil pump
body. Measure the clearance between the inner and
outer rotors (Fig. 80). If the clearance between the
rotors is .150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump
assembly must be replaced.
(8) Place a straight edge across the body of the oil
pump (between the bolt holes), if a feeler gauge of
.095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted
between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump
must be replaced (Fig. 81).
NOTE: The 3.7 Oil pump is released as an assem-
bly. There are no DaimlerChrysler part numbers for
Sub-Assembly components. In the event the oil
pump is not functioning or out of specification it
must be replaced as an assembly.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect
carefully for damage or wear.
(2) Install inner and outer rotors
(3) Install oil pump cover plate and install cover
bolts and tighten them to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(4) Prime oil pump before installation by filling
rotor cavity with engine oil.
(5) If oil pressure is low and pump is within spec-
ifications, inspect for worn engine bearings or other
causes for oil pressure loss.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the oil pump onto the crankshaft and
install one oil pump retaining bolts.
(2) Position the primary timing chain tensioner
and install three retaining bolts.
(3) Tighten the oil pump and primary timing chain
tensioner retaining bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.) in
the sequence shown (Fig. 82).
(4) Install the secondary timing chain tensioners
and timing chains (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS -
INSTALLATION).
Fig. 79 Measuring Outer Rotor Clearance
1 - FEELER GAUGE
2 - OUTER ROTOR
Fig. 80 Measuring Clearance Between Rotors
1 - OUTER ROTOR
2 - FEELER GAUGE
3 - INNER ROTOR
Fig. 81 Measuring Clearance Over Rotors
1 - STRAIGHT EDGE
2 - FEELER GAUGE
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 69
OIL PUMP (Continued)

(5) Install the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install the pick-up tube and oil pan (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-
flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Cor-
poration recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise (Fig. 83)
to remove it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
(4) When filter separates from cylinder block oil
filter boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil
spill. Remove filter from vehicle.
NOTE: Make sure filter gasket was removed with fil-
ter.
(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 84) hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
Fig. 82 Oil Pump And Primary Timing Chain
Tensioner Tightening SequenceFig. 83 OIL FILTER
1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER
Fig. 84 Oil Filter Sealing Surface-Typical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
9 - 70 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
OIL PUMP (Continued)

OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
SERVICE
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY.
ENGINE OIL SPECIFICATION
CAUTION: Do not use non-detergent or straight
mineral oil when adding or changing crankcase
lubricant. Engine failure can result.
API SERVICE GRADE CERTIFIED
Use an engine oil that is API Service Grade Certi-
fied. MOPARtprovides engine oils that conform to
this service grade.
SAE VISCOSITY
An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the vis-
cosity of engine oil. Use only engine oils with multi-
ple viscosities such as 5W-30 or 10W-30 in the 3.7L
engines. These are specified with a dual SAE viscos-
ity grade which indicates the cold-to-hot temperature
viscosity range. Select an engine oil that is best
suited to your particular temperature range and vari-
ation (Fig. 85).
ENERGY CONSERVING OIL
An Energy Conserving type oil is recommended for
gasoline engines. The designation of ENERGY CON-
SERVING is located on the label of an engine oil con-
tainer.
CONTAINER IDENTIFICATION
Standard engine oil identification notations have
been adopted to aid in the proper selection of engine
oil. The identifying notations are located on the label
of engine oil plastic bottles and the top of engine oil
cans (Fig. 86).
OIL LEVEL INDICATOR (DIPSTICK)
The engine oil level indicator is located at the right
rear of the engine on the 3.7L engines. (Fig. 87).
Fig. 85 TEMPERATURE/ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY -
3.7L ENGINE
Fig. 86 Engine Oil Container Standard Notations
Fig. 87 ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK 3.7L ENGINE
1 - TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK
2 - ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK
3 - ENGINE OIL FILL CAP
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 71

CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800
kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhib-
ited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five
minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil
level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in Maintenance Schedules.
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if
damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil described in this sec-
tion.
(8) Install oil fill cap.
(9) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(10) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used
engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle
engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this
section.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold (Fig. 88) is made of a compos-
ite material and features 300 mm (11.811 in.) long
runners which maximizes low end torque. The intake
manifold uses single plane sealing which consist of
six individual press in place port gaskets to prevent
leaks. The throttle body attaches directly to the
intake manifold. Eight studs and two bolts are used
to fasten the intake to the head.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE
MANIFOLD LEAKS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
Fig. 88 Intake Manifold
1 - THROTTLE BODY
2 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
3 - INTAKE PORT GASKETS
9 - 72 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
OIL (Continued)

(1) Start the engine.
(2) Spray a small stream of water (spray bottle) at
the suspected leak area.
(3) If engine RPM'S change, the area of the sus-
pected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(3) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(4) Disconnect electrical connectors for the follow-
ing components: Refer to FUEL SYSTEM for compo-
nent locations.
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
(5) Disconnect vapor purge hose, brake booster
hose, speed control servo hose, positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) hose.
(6) Disconnect generator electrical connections.
(7) Disconnect air conditioning compressor electri-
cal connections.
(8) Disconnect left and right radio suppressor
straps.
(9) Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers.
(10) Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt
and ground strap.
(11) Bleed fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(12) Remove fuel rail.
(13) Remove throttle body assembly and mounting
bracket.
(14) Drain cooling system below coolant tempera-
ture level (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(15) Remove the heater hoses from the engine
front cover and the heater core.
(16) Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes
from intake manifold.
(17) Remove coolant temperature sensor (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT TEMP
SENSOR - REMOVAL).
(18) Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in
reverse order of tightening sequence.
(19) Remove intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install intake manifold gaskets.
(2) Install intake manifold.
(3) Install intake manifold retaining bolts and
tighten in sequence shown in to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.)
(Fig. 89).(4) Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
(5) Install throttle body assembly.
(6) Connect throttle cable and speed control cable
to throttle body.
(7) Install fuel rail.
(8) Install ignition coil towers.
(9) Position and install heater hoses and tubes
onto intake manifold.
(10) Install the heater hoses to the heater core and
engine front cover.
(11) Connect electrical connectors for the following
components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Ignition coil towers
²Fuel injectors
(12) Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and
ground strap.
(13) Connect generator electrical connections.
(14) Connect Vapor purge hose, Brake booster
hose, Speed control servo hose, Positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) hose.
(15) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Install resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(17) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 89 Intake Manifold Tightening Sequence
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 73
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

EXHAUST MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds (Fig. 90) are log style with
a patented flow enhancing design to maximize perfor-
mance. The exhaust manifolds are made of high sili-
con molybdenum cast iron. A perforated core graphite
exhaust manifold gasket is used to improve sealing
to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifolds are cov-
ered by a three layer laminated heat shield for ther-
mal protection and noise reduction. The heat shields
(Fig. 91) are fastened with a torque prevailing nut
that is backed off slightly to allow for the thermal
expansion of the exhaust manifold.
REMOVAL
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the
exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the exhaust heat shield (Fig. 92).
(6) Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching
manifold to cylinder head.
(7) Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder
head.
LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the
exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the exhaust heat shields (Fig. 93).
(6) Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching
manifold to cylinder head.
(7) Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder
head.
INSTALLATION
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when
removing the engine exhaust manifold, install new
studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends.
Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precau-
tion is not taken.
Fig. 90 EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
1 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD
2 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD
Fig. 91 Exhaust Manifold Heat Shields
1 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELD
2 - RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE
3 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELD
4 - LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE
9 - 74 ENGINE - 3.7LDR

(1) Position the engine exhaust manifold and gas-
ket on the two studs located on the cylinder head.
Install conical washers and nuts on these studs .
(2) Install remaining conical washers. Starting at
the center arm and working outward, tighten the
bolts and nuts to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(5) Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure
with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when
removing the engine exhaust manifold, install newstuds. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends.
Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precau-
tion is not taken.
(1) Position the engine exhaust manifold and gas-
ket on the two studs located on the cylinder head.
Install conical washers and nuts on these studs .
(2) Install remaining conical washers. Starting at
the center arm and working outward, tighten the
bolts and nuts to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(5) Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure
with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 92 Exhaust Manifold Right
1 - HEAT SHIELD
2 - NUTS
3 - MANIFOLD FLANGE
Fig. 93 Exhaust Manifold left
1 - HEAT SHIELD
2 - NUTS
3 - MANIFOLD FLANGE
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 75
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)

VALVE TIMING
DESCRIPTION
The timing drive system has been designed to pro-
vide quiet performance and reliability to support a
non-free wheelingengine. Specifically the intake
valves are non-free wheeling and can be easily dam-
aged with forceful engine rotation if camshaft-to-
crankshaft timing is incorrect. The timing drive
system consists of a primary chain, two secondary
timing chain drives (Fig. 94) and a counterbalance
shaft drive.
OPERATION
The primary timing chain is a single inverted tooth
chain type. The primary chain drives the large 50
tooth idler sprocket directly from a 25 tooth crank-shaft sprocket. Primary chain motion is controlled by
a pivoting leaf spring tensioner arm and a fixed
guide. The arm and the guide both use nylon plastic
wear faces for low friction and long wear. The pri-
mary chain receives oil splash lubrication from the
secondary chain drive and designed oil pump leak-
age. The idler sprocket assembly connects the pri-
mary chain drive, secondary chain drives, and the
counterbalance shaft. The idler sprocket assembly
consists of two integral 26 tooth sprockets a 50 tooth
sprocket and a helical gear that is press-fit to the
assembly. The spline joint for the 50 tooth sprocket is
a non serviceable press fit anti rattle type. A spiral
ring is installed on the outboard side of the 50 tooth
sprocket to prevent spline disengagement. The idler
sprocket assembly spins on a stationary idler shaft.
The idler shaft is a light press-fit into the cylinder
Fig. 94 Timing Drive System
1 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN
2 - SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER (LEFT AND RIGHT
SIDE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE)
3 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM
4 - LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN
5 - CHAIN GUIDE (LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE ARE NOT
INTERCHANGEABLE)6 - PRIMARY CHAIN
7 - IDLER SPROCKET
8 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
9 - PRIMARY CHAIN TENSIONER
9 - 76 ENGINE - 3.7LDR

block. A large washer on the idler shaft bolt and the
rear flange of the idler shaft are used to control
sprocket thrust movement. Pressurized oil is routed
through the center of the idler shaft to provide lubri-
cation for the two bushings used in the idler sprocket
assembly.
There are two secondary drive chains, both are
roller type, one to drive the camshaft in each SOHC
cylinder head. There are no shaft speed changes in
the secondary chain drive system. Each secondary
chain drives a 26 tooth cam sprocket directly from
the 26 tooth sprocket on the idler sprocket assembly.
A fixed chain guide and a hydraulic oil damped ten-
sioner are used to maintain tension in each second-
ary chain system. The hydraulic tensioners for the
secondary chain systems are fed pressurized oil from
oil reservoir pockets in the block. Each tensioner
incorporates a controlled leak path through a device
known as a vent disc located in the nose of the piston
to manage chain loads. Each tensioner also has a
mechanical ratchet system that limits chain slack if
the tensioner piston bleeds down after engine shut
down. The tensioner arms and guides also utilize
nylon wear faces for low friction and long wear. The
secondary timing chains receive lubrication from a
small orifice in the tensioners. This orifice is pro-
tected from clogging by a fine mesh screen which is
located on the back of the hydraulic tensioners.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR
NOTE: This procedure must be performed with the
timing chain cover removed.
(1) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN
AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(2) To determine if the secondary timing chains
are worn, rotate the engine clockwise until maximum
tensioner piston extension is obtained. Measure the
distance between the secondary timing chain ten-
sioner housing and the step ledge on the piston. The
measurement at point (A) must be less than 15mm
(.5906 inches) (Fig. 95).
(3) If the measurement exceeds the specification
the secondary timing chains are worn and require
replacement (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS -
REMOVAL).
SERVICE PROCEDURE - TIMING VERIFICATION
CAUTION: The 3.7L is a non free-wheeling design
engine. Therefore, correct engine timing is critical.
NOTE: Components referred to as left hand or right
hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside
the vehicle.
NOTE: The blue link plates on the chains and the
dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line
up during the timing verification procedure. The
blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots
only when re-timing the complete timing drive.
Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot
alignment is no longer valid.
Engine base timing can be verified by the following
procedure:
(1) Remove the cylinder head covers. Refer to the
procedure in this section.
Fig. 95 Measuring Secondary Timing Chains For
Wear
1 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM
2 - SECONDARY CHAIN TENSIONER PISTON
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 77
VALVE TIMING (Continued)