warning DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G User Guide

INSTALLATION
(1) Install support plate on axle flange (Fig. 66).
Tighten attaching bolts to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install parking brake cable in the brake lever.
(3) Install the park brake shoes (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES - INSTALLA-
TION). (Fig. 66).
(4) Install axle shaft, (Refer to 3 - DIFFEREN-
TIAL & DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE - 9 1/4/AXLE
SHAFTS - INSTALLATION).
(5) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES -
ADJUSTMENTS).
(6) Install the rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(7) Install the caliper adapter (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the caliper (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the wheel and tire assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION
The parking brakes are operated by a system of
cables and levers attached to a primary and second-
ary shoe positioned within the drum section of the
rotor.
The drum-in-hat design utilizes an independent set
of shoes to park the vehicle (Fig. 67).
OPERATION
To apply the parking brake the pedal is depressed.
This creates tension in the cable which pulls forward
on the park brake lever. The lever pushes the park
brake shoes outward and into contact with the drum
section of the rotor. The contact of shoe to rotor parks
the vehicle.
A torsion locking mechanism is used to hold the
pedal in an applied position. Parking brake release is
accomplished by the hand release.
A parking brake switch is mounted on the parking
brake lever and is actuated by movement of the
lever. The switch, which is in circuit with the red
warning light in the dash, will illuminate the warn-
ing light whenever the parking brake is applied.
Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a cable
tensioner mechanism. The cable tensioner, once
adjusted at the factory, should not need further
adjustment under normal circumstances. Adjustment
may be required if a new tensioner, or cables are
installed, or disconnected.
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT PARKING BRAKE CABLE
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Lockout the parking brake cable (Fig. 69).
(3) Loosen adjusting nut to create slack in front
cable.
(4) Remove the front cable from the cable connec-
tor.
Fig. 66 SUPPORT PLATE WITH BRAKES MOUNTED
1 - SUPPORT PLATE
2 - MOUNTING NUTS
Fig. 67 SUPPORT PLATE WITH BRAKES MOUNTED
1 - SUPPORT PLATE
2 - MOUNTING NUTS
5 - 36 BRAKES - BASEDR
SUPPORT PLATE (Continued)

BRAKES - ABS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BRAKES - ABS
DESCRIPTION.........................45
OPERATION...........................45
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ABS BRAKE
BLEEDING...........................46
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................46
FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
DESCRIPTION.........................47
OPERATION...........................47
REMOVAL.............................48
INSTALLATION.........................48
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WHEEL
ANTILOCK...........................48
REMOVAL.............................48
INSTALLATION.........................48TONE WHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WHEEL
SPEED SENSOR......................49
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL
DESCRIPTION - ELECTRONIC VARIABLE
BRAKE PROPORTIONING...............49
OPERATION - ELECTRONIC VARIABLE
BRAKE PROPORTIONING...............49
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT)
DESCRIPTION.........................49
OPERATION...........................49
REMOVAL.............................50
INSTALLATION.........................50
R WA L VA LV E
DESCRIPTION.........................50
OPERATION...........................50
REMOVAL.............................51
INSTALLATION.........................51
BRAKES - ABS
DESCRIPTION
The antilock brake system (ABS) is an electroni-
cally operated, three channel brake control system.
The vehicle has Electronic Variable Brake Propor-
tioning (EVBP) designed into the system which elim-
inates the combination/proportioning valve.
The system is designed to prevent wheel lockup
and maintain steering control during braking. Pre-
venting lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid
pressure to the wheel brake units.
The hydraulic system is a three channel design.
The front wheel brakes are controlled individually
and the rear wheel brakes in tandem. The ABS elec-
trical system is separate from other electrical circuits
in the vehicle. A specially programmed controller
antilock brake unit operates the system components.
ABS system major components include:
²Controller Antilock Brakes (CAB)
²Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
²Wheel Speed Sensors (WSS)
²ABS Warning Light
OPERATION
Battery voltage is supplied to the CAB. The CAB
performs a system initialization procedure at start
up. A check of the ABS motor is performed at 15miles per hour. Initialization consists of a static and
dynamic self check of system electrical components.
The static and dynamic checks occurs at ignition
start up. During the dynamic check, the CAB briefly
cycles solenoids to verify operation. An audible noise
may be heard during this self check. This noise
should be considered normal. The ABS motor and
pump are then checked at a speed of 15 mile per
hour.
If an ABS component exhibits a fault during ini-
tialization, the CAB illuminates the amber warning
light and registers a fault code in the microprocessor
memory.
The CAB monitors wheel speed sensor inputs con-
tinuously while the vehicle is in motion. However,
the CAB will not activate any ABS components as
long as sensor inputs indicate normal braking.
During normal braking, the master cylinder, power
booster and wheel brake units all function as they
would in a vehicle without ABS. The HCU compo-
nents are not activated.
The purpose of the antilock system is to prevent
wheel lockup. Preventing lockup helps maintain vehi-
cle braking action and steering control.
The antilock CAB activates the system whenever
sensor signals indicate periods of wheel slip.
The antilock system prevents lockup during a
wheel slip condition by modulating fluid apply pres-
sure to the wheel brake units.
DRBRAKES - ABS 5 - 45

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the front rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt
from the hub. (Fig. 3)
(3) Remove the wheel speed sensor from the hub.
(4) Remove the wiring from the clips and discon-
nect the electrical connector.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the wiring to the clips and Reconnect
the electrical connector.
(2) Install the wheel speed sensor to the hub.
(3) Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt to
the hub. Tighten the bolt to 21 N´m (190 in. lbs.).
(4) Install the front rotor and brake caliper assem-
bly (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANI-
CAL/ROTORS - INSTALLATION).
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WHEEL
ANTILOCK
Diagnosis of base brake conditions which are
mechanical in nature should be performed first. This
includes brake noise, lack of power assist, parking
brake, or vehicle vibration during normal braking.
The RWAL brake system performs several self-
tests every time the ignition switch is turned on and
the vehicle is driven. The CAB monitors the system
inputs and outputs circuits to verify the system is
operating properly. If the CAB senses a malfunction
in the system it will set a DTC into memory and trig-
ger the warning lamp.NOTE: The MDS or DRB III scan tool is used to
diagnose the RWAL system. For test procedures
refer to the Chassis Diagnostic Manual.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Remove the brake line mounting nut and
remove the brake line from the sensor stud.
(3) Remove the mounting stud from the sensor and
shield (Fig. 4).
(4) Remove the sensor and shield from the differ-
ential housing.
(5) Disconnect the sensor wire harness and remove
the sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect the harness to the sensor.Be sure
the seal is securely in place between the sensor
and the wiring connector.
(2) Install the O-ring on the sensor (if removed).
(3) Insert the sensor in the differential housing.
(4) Install the sensor shield.
(5) Install the sensor mounting stud and tighten to
24 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the brake line on the sensor stud and
install the nut.
(7) Lower the vehicle.
Fig. 3 WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR MOUNTING BOLT
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
3 - HUB/BEARINGFig. 4 REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
3 - AXLE HOUSING
5 - 48 BRAKES - ABSDR
FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (Continued)

TONE WHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WHEEL
SPEED SENSOR
Diagnosis of base brake conditions which are
mechanical in nature should be performed first. This
includes brake noise, lack of power assist, parking
brake, or vehicle vibration during normal braking.
The Antilock brake system performs several self-
tests every time the ignition switch is turned on and
the vehicle is driven. The CAB monitors the system
inputs and outputs circuits to verify the system is
operating properly. If the CAB senses a malfunction
in the system it will set a DTC into memory and trig-
ger the warning lamp.
NOTE: The MDS or DRB III scan tool is used to
diagnose the Antilock Brake system. For test proce-
dures refer to the Chassis Diagnostic Manual.
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL
DESCRIPTION - ELECTRONIC VARIABLE
BRAKE PROPORTIONING
Vehicles equipped with ABS use electronic variable
brake proportioning (EVBP) to balance front-to-rear
braking. The EVBP is used in place of a rear propor-
tioning valve. The EVBP system uses the ABS sys-
tem to control the slip of the rear wheels in partial
braking range. The braking force of the rear wheels
is controlled electronically by using the inlet and out-
let valves located in the integrated control unit
(ICU).
OPERATION - ELECTRONIC VARIABLE BRAKE
PROPORTIONING
EVBP is able to decrease, hold and increase rear
brake pressure without activating full ABS control.
Upon entry into EVBP the inlet valve for the rear
brake circuit is switched on so that the fluid supply
from the master cylinder is shut off. In order to
decrease the rear brake pressure, the outlet valve for
the rear brake circuit is pulsed. This allows fluid to
enter the low pressure accumulator (LPA) in the
hydraulic control unit (HCU) resulting in a drop in
fluid pressure to the rear brakes. In order to increase
the rear brake pressure, the outlet valve is switched
off and the inlet valve is pulsed. This increases the
pressure to the rear brakes.
The EVBP will remain functional during many
ABS fault modes. If both the red BRAKE and amber
ABS warning indicators are illuminated, the EVBP
may not be functioning.
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL
UNIT)
DESCRIPTION
The HCU consists of a valve body, pump motor, low
pressure accumulators, inlet valves, outlet valves and
noise attenuators.
OPERATION
Accumulators in the valve body store extra fluid
released to the system for ABS mode operation. The
pump provides the fluid volume needed and is oper-
ated by a DC type motor. The motor is controlled by
the CAB.
The valves modulate brake pressure during
antilock braking and are controlled by the CAB.
The HCU provides three channel pressure control
to the front and rear brakes. One channel controls
the rear wheel brakes in tandem. The two remaining
channels control the front wheel brakes individually.
During antilock braking, the solenoid valves are
opened and closed as needed.
During normal braking, the HCU solenoid valves
and pump are not activated. The master cylinder and
power booster operate the same as a vehicle without
an ABS brake system.
NOTE: The three modes mentioned below do occur
but not necessarily in the order listed everytime.
During antilock braking, solenoid valve pressure
modulation occurs in three stages, pressure increase,
pressure hold, and pressure decrease. The valves are
all contained in the valve body portion of the HCU.
PRESSURE DECREASE
The outlet valve is opened and the inlet valve is
closed during the pressure decrease cycle.
A pressure decrease cycle is initiated when speed
sensor signals indicate high wheel slip at one or
more wheels. At this point, the CAB closes the inlet
then opens the outlet valve, which also opens the
return circuit to the accumulators. Fluid pressure is
allowed to bleed off (decrease) as needed to prevent
wheel lock.
Once the period of high wheel slip has ended, the
CAB closes the outlet valve and begins a pressure
increase or hold cycle as needed.
PRESSURE HOLD
Both solenoid valves are closed in the pressure
hold cycle but only the inlet valve is energized. Fluid
apply pressure in the control channel is maintained
at a constant rate. The CAB maintains the hold cycle
until sensor inputs indicate a pressure change is nec-
essary.
DRBRAKES - ABS 5 - 49

CLUTCH
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
CLUTCH
WARNING.............................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................1
SPECIFICATIONS........................5
CLUTCH DISC
REMOVAL.............................5
INSTALLATION..........................5
CLUTCH HOUSING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................7
REMOVAL.............................9
INSTALLATION..........................9
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL.............................9
INSTALLATION.........................10
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................10REMOVAL.............................11
DISASSEMBLY.........................11
ASSEMBLY............................11
INSTALLATION.........................11
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL.............................11
INSTALLATION.........................12
LINKAGE
REMOVAL.............................12
INSTALLATION.........................12
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION.........................13
OPERATION...........................13
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................13
CLUTCH
WARNING
WARNING: Exercise care when servicing clutch
components. Factory installed clutch discs do not
contain asbestos fibers. Dust and dirt on clutch
parts may contain asbestos fibers from aftermarket
components. Breathing excessive concentrations of
these fibers can cause serious bodily harm. Wear a
respirator during service and never clean clutch
components with compressed air or with a dry
brush. Either clean the components with water
dampened rags or use a vacuum cleaner specifi-
cally designed to remove asbestos fibers and dust.
Do not create dust by sanding a clutch discs.
Replace the disc if the friction material is damaged.
Dispose of all dust and dirt containing asbestos
fibers in sealed bags or containers. This will mini-
mize exposure to yourself and to others. Follow all
recommended safety practices prescribed by the
occupational safety and health administration
(OSHA) and the environmental safety agency (EPA),
for the handling and disposal of products contain-
ing asbestos. Failure to follow these instructions
may result in personal injury or death
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Road test and inspect components to determine a
clutch problem. Road test the vehicle at normalspeeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If clutch chatters,
grabs, slips or does not release properly, remove and
inspect clutch components. If problem is noise or
hard shifting, further diagnosis may be needed to the
transmission and driveline component.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Contamination is a frequent cause of clutch mal-
functions. Oil, water or clutch fluid on the clutch disc
and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter, slip
and grab. Oil contamination indicates a leak at
either the rear main seal or transmission input shaft.
Clutch fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave
cylinder push rod seals. Heat buildup caused by slip-
page between the pressure plate, disc and flywheel
can bake the oil residue onto the components. The
glaze-like residue ranges in color from amber to
black.
Road splash contamination is dirt/water entering
the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing cracks.
Driving through deep water puddles can force water/
road splash into the housing through such openings.
IMPROPER RELEASE OR CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT
Clutch release or engagement problems can be
caused by worn or damage clutch components.
Release problems can cause hard shifting and
noise. Look for leaks at clutch cylinders, connecting
line and loose slave cylinder bolts. Also worn/loose
release fork, pivot stud, clutch disc, pressure plate or
release bearing.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 1

Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch.
(3) Remove flywheel bolts and remove flywheel.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2)
Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install flywheel on the crank shaft.
(2) Install flywheel bolts and tighten to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install clutch.
(4) Install transmission.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove clutch disc.
(3) Use a suitable blind hole puller to remove pilot
bearing.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 11
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from
the filler neck and check the coolant level. Push
down on the cap to disengage it from the stop tabs.
Wipe the inside of the filler neck and examine the
lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt
and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/
overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a
wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect the cams on the outside of the filler neck.
If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap
valve and tester seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck.
Operate the tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15
psi) pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge
excessively or bulges while testing, replace as neces-
sary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the
condition of the cooling system according to following
criteria:
Holds Steady:If the pointer remains steady for
two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in
system. However, there could be an internal leakthat does not appear with normal system test pres-
sure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and
leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage
or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to INTER-
NAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all of the connections for seep-
age or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the
radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal the
small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equiva-
lent). Repair the leak holes and inspect the system
again with pressure applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine the system for external leakage.
If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove the engine dipstick and inspect for water
globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for
water globules and transmission fluid cooler for leak-
age.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 kPa (21 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate the engine without the pressure cap on
the radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a
Pressure Tester to the filler neck. If pressure builds
up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This
is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or
crack in engine. Repair as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of the gauge pointer indicates compres-
sion or combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notshort out cylinders to isolate com-
pression leak.
If the needle on dial of the pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
Fig. 5 Leak Detection Using Black Light - Typical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
7 - 6 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINECOOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3
mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM DIESEL ENGINE
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS - DIESEL ENGINE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
LOW1. Vehicle is equipped with a heavy
duty cooling system.1. None. System operating normally.
NOTE: Information on dash cluster
is displayed based on broadcast
datd from ECM. DTC will be set for
engine sensore circuit concern.2. Thermostat stuck open 2. Inspect and test thermostat.
3. Coolant level low. 3. Fill cooling system. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
4. Temperature gauge not
functioning correctly.4. Check cluster (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
5. Engine sensor stuck in range 5. Monitor sensor with DRB III to
verify sensor reading changes with
increasing temperature.
6. Engine sensor failed out of
range.A DTC will be set.
7. Electronically Controlled Vicsous
Fan Drive not operating properly.7. Check Electronically Controlled
Viscous Fan Drive (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
DRCOOLING 7 - 7
COOLING (Continued)

COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
LOW1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) been set indicating a stuck
open thermostat?1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL - DESCRIPTION) for
On-Board Diagnostics and DTC
information. Replace thermostat if
necessary.
2. Is the temperature sending unit
connected?2. Check the temperature sensor
connector. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - SCHEMATIC -
ELECTRICAL) Repair connector if
necessary.
3. Is the temperature gauge
operating OK?3. Check gauge operation. (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER/ENGINE
TEMPERATURE GAUGE -
DESCRIPTION). Repair as
necessary.
4. Coolant level low in cold ambient
temperatures accompanied with
poor heater performance.4. Check coolant level in the coolant
reserve/overflow tank or degas
bottle and the radiator. Inspect
system for leaks. Repair leaks as
necessary. Refer to the Coolant
section of the manual text for
WARNINGS and CAUTIONS
associated with removing the
radiator cap.
5. Improper operation of internal
heater doors or heater controls.5. Inspect heater and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) for
procedures.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR THE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST OR LEAKING FROM THE
COOLING SYSTEM1. Trailer is being towed, a steep
hill is being climbed, vehicle is
operated in slow moving traffic, or
engine is being idled with very high
ambient (outside) temperatures and
the air conditioning is on. Higher
altitudes could aggravate these
conditions.1. This may be a temporary
condition and repair is not
necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and attempt to drive the
vehicle without any of the previous
conditions. Observe the temperature
gauge. The gauge should return to
the normal range. If the gauge does
not return to the normal range,
determine the cause for overheating
and repair. Refer to Possible
Causes (2-18).
2. Is the temperature gauge reading
correctly?2. Check gauge. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - SCHEMATIC -
ELECTRICAL). Repair as
necessary.
DRCOOLING 7 - 11
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Is the temperature warning
illuminating unnecessarily?3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER -
SCHEMATIC - ELECTRICAL).
4. Coolant low in coolant reserve/
overflow tank and radiator?4. Check for coolant leaks and
repair as necessary. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of
coolant will be lowered. Also refer
to the following Step 6.5. Tighten cap
6. Poor seals at the radiator cap. 6. (a) Check condition of cap and
cap seals. Refer to Radiator Cap.
Replace cap if necessary.
(b) Check condition of radiator filler
neck. If neck is bent or damaged,
replace radiator (5.9L) or degas
bottle (3.7L, 4.7L).
7. Coolant level low in radiator but
not in coolant reserve/overflow
tank. This means the radiator is not
drawing coolant from the coolant
reserve/overflow tank as the engine
cools (5.9L).7. (a) Check condition of radiator
cap and cap seals. Refer to
Radiator Cap in this Group. Replace
cap if necessary.
(b) Check condition of radiator filler
neck. If neck is bent or damaged,
replace radiator.
(c) Check condition of the hose from
the radiator to the coolant tank. It
should fit tight at both ends without
any kinks or tears. Replace hose if
necessary.
(d) Check coolant reserve/overflow
tank and tanks hoses for blockage.
Repair as necessary.
8. Incorrect coolant concentration 8. Check coolant. (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/
FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION).
9. Coolant not flowing through
system9. Check for coolant flow at radiator
filler neck with some coolant
removed, engine warm and
thermostat open. Coolant should be
observed flowing through radiator. If
flow is not observed, determine area
of obstruction and repair as
necessary.
10. Radiator or A/C condenser fins
are dirty or clogged.10. Remove insects and debris.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
7 - 12 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)