check oil DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

(5) Slowly separate front of pan and reusable gas-
ket away from transmission allowing the fluid to
drain into drain pan.
(6) Hold up pan and remove remaining bolt hold-
ing pan to transmission.
(7) While holding pan level, lower pan and gasket
away from transmission.
(8) Pour remaining fluid in pan into drain pan.
(9) Remove screws holding filter to valve body
(Fig. 90).
(10) Separate filter from valve body and pour fluid
in filter into drain pan.
(11) Dispose of used trans fluid and filter properly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position a new transmission oil filter onto the
valve body.
(2) Install the screws to hold the filter to the valve
body. Tighten the screws to 4 N´m (35 in.lbs.).
(3) Clean the gasket surfaces of the transmission
oil pan and transmission pan rail.
NOTE: The transmission pan oil gasket is reusable.
Inspect the sealing surfaces of the gasket. If the
sealing ribs on both surfaces appear to be in good
condition, clean the gasket of any foreign material
and reinstall.
(4) Position the oil pan gasket onto the oil pan.
(5) Position the oil pan and gasket onto the trans-
mission and install several bolts to hold the pan and
gasket to the transmission.(6) Install the remainder of the oil pan bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 13.6 N´m (125 in.lbs.).
(7) Lower vehicle and fill transmission. (Refer to
21 - TRANSMISSION/AUTOMATIC/FLUID - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE)
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TRANSMISSION
FILL
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid
change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
(1) Remove dipstick and insert clean funnel in
transmission fill tube.
(2) Add following initial quantity of MopartAT F
+4 to transmission:
(a) If only fluid and filter were changed, add3
pints (1-1/2 quarts)of ATF +4 to transmission.
(b) If transmission was completely overhauled,
torque converter was replaced or drained, and
cooler was flushed, add12 pints (6 quarts)of ATF
+4 to transmission.
(3) Apply parking brakes.
(4) Start and run engine at normal curb idle
speed.
(5) Apply service brakes, shift transmission
through all gear ranges then back to NEUTRAL, set
parking brake, and leave engine running at curb idle
speed.
(6) Remove funnel, insert dipstick and check fluid
level. If level is low,add fluid to bring level to
MIN mark on dipstick.Check to see if the oil level
is equal on both sides of the dipstick. If one side is
noticably higher than the other, the dipstick has
picked up some oil from the dipstick tube. Allow the
oil to drain down the dipstick tube and re-check.
(7) Drive vehicle until transmission fluid is at nor-
mal operating temperature.
(8) With the engine running at curb idle speed, the
gear selector in NEUTRAL, and the parking brake
applied, check the transmission fluid level.
CAUTION: Do not overfill transmission, fluid foam-
ing and shifting problems can result.
(9) Add fluid to bring level up to MAX arrow
mark.
When fluid level is correct, shut engine off, release
park brake, remove funnel, and install dipstick in fill
tube.
Fig. 90 Transmission Filter
1 - TRANSMISSION
2 - FILTER
21 - 204 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48REDR
FLUID AND FILTER (Continued)

FRONT CLUTCH
DESCRIPTION
The front clutch assembly (Fig. 91) is composed of
the front clutch retainer, pressure plate, clutch
plates, driving discs, piston, piston return spring,
return spring retainer, and snap-rings. The front
clutch is the forward-most component in the trans-
mission geartrain and is directly behind the oil pump
and is considered a driving component.
OPERATION
To apply the clutch, pressure is applied between
the clutch retainer and piston. The fluid pressure is
provided by the oil pump, transferred through the
control valves and passageways, and enters the
clutch through the hub of the reaction shaft support.
With pressure applied between the clutch retainer
and piston, the piston moves away from the clutch
retainer and compresses the clutch pack. This actionapplies the clutch pack, allowing torque to flow
through the input shaft into the driving discs, and
into the clutch plates and pressure plate that are
lugged to the clutch retainer. The waved snap-ring is
used to cushion the application of the clutch pack.
When pressure is released from the piston, the
spring returns the piston to its fully released position
and disengages the clutch. The release spring also
helps to cushion the application of the clutch assem-
bly. When the clutch is in the process of being
released by the release spring, fluid flows through a
vent and one-way ball-check-valve located in the
clutch retainer. The check-valve is needed to elimi-
nate the possibility of plate drag caused by centrifu-
gal force acting on the residual fluid trapped in the
clutch piston retainer.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove the waved snap-ring, reaction plate,
clutch plates, and clutch discs.
Fig. 91 48RE Front Clutch Components
1 - INNER PISTON SEAL 7 - CLUTCH DISCS
2 - CLUTCH PISTON 8 - RETAINER SNAP-RING
3 - CLUTCH PISTON SPRING RETAINER 9 - CLUTCH PISTON SPRINGS
4 - CLUTCH PLATES 10 - OUTER PISTON SEAL
5 - CLUTCH PACK SNAP-RING (WAVED) 11 - FRONT CLUTCH RETAINER
6 - REACTION PLATE
DRAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48RE 21 - 205

(11) Install reaction plate followed by waved snap-
ring.
(12) Check clutch pack clearance with feeler gauge
(Fig. 96). Clearance between waved spring and pres-
sure plate should 2.5-4.09 mm (0.098-0.161 in.). If
clearance is incorrect, clutch plates, clutch discs,
snap-ring, or pressure plate may have to be changed.
FRONT SERVO
DESCRIPTION
The kickdown servo (Fig. 97) consists of a two-land
piston with an inner piston, a piston rod and guide,
and a return spring. The dual-land piston uses seal
rings on its outer diameters and an O-ring for the
inner piston.
OPERATION
The application of the piston is accomplished by
applying pressure between the two lands of the pis-
ton. The pressure acts against the larger lower land
to push the piston downward, allowing the piston rod
to extend though its guide against the apply lever.
Release of the servo at the 2-3 upshift is accom-
plished by a combination of spring and line pressure,
acting on the bottom of the larger land of the piston.
The small piston is used to cushion the application of
the band by bleeding oil through a small orifice in
the larger piston. The release timing of the kickdown
servo is very important to obtain a smooth but firm
shift. The release has to be very quick, just as the
front clutch application is taking place. Otherwise,
engine runaway or a shift hesitation will occur. To
accomplish this, the band retains its holding capacity
until the front clutch is applied, giving a small
amount of overlap between them.
Fig. 96 Typical Method Of Measuring Front Clutch
Pack Clearance
1 - FEELER GAUGE
2 - WAVED SNAP-RING
3 - FEELER GAUGE
Fig. 97 Front Servo
1 - VENT
2 - INNER PISTON
3 - PISTON
4 - SPRING
5 - RELEASE PRESSURE
6 - APPLY PRESSURE
7 - PISTON ROD
21 - 208 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48REDR
FRONT CLUTCH (Continued)

DISASSEMBLY
(1) Mark position of support in oil pump body for
assembly alignment reference. Use scriber or paint to
make alignment marks.
(2) Place pump body on two wood blocks.
(3) Remove reaction shaft support bolts and sepa-
rate support from pump body (Fig. 110).
(4) Remove pump inner and outer gears (Fig. 111).
(5) Remove o-ring seal from pump body (Fig. 112).
Discard seal after removal.
(6) Remove oil pump seal with Remover Tool
C-3981. Discard seal after removal.
CLEANING
Clean pump and support components with solvent
and dry them with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Check condition of the seal rings and thrust
washer on the reaction shaft support. The seal rings
do not need to be replaced unless cracked, broken, or
severely worn.
Inspect the pump and support components. Replace
the pump or support if the seal ring grooves or
machined surfaces are worn, scored, pitted, or dam-
aged. Replace the pump gears if pitted, worn
chipped, or damaged.
Inspect the pump bushing. Then check the reaction
shaft support bushing. Replace either bushing only if
heavily worn, scored or damaged. It is not necessary
to replace the bushings unless they are actually dam-
aged.
Clearance between outer gear and reaction shaft
housing should be 0.010 to 0.063 mm (0.0004 to
0.0025 in.). Clearance between inner gear and reac-
tion shaft housing should be 0.010 to 0.063 mm
(0.0004 to 0.0025 in.). Both clearances can be mea-sured at the same time by installing the gears in the
pump body and measure pump component clearances
as follows:
(1) Position an appropriate piece of PlastigageŸ
across both gears.
(2) Align the plastigage to a flat area on the reac-
tion shaft housing.
(3) Install the reaction shaft to the pump housing.
(4) Separate the reaction shaft housing from the
pump housing and measure the PlastigageŸ follow-
ing the instructions supplied with it.
Clearance between inner gear tooth and outer gear
should be 0.051 to 0.19 mm (0.002 to 0.0075 in.).
Measure clearance with an appropriate feeler gauge
(Fig. 113).
Clearance between outer gear and pump housing
should be 0.10 to 0.229 mm (0.004 to 0.009 in.). Mea-
sure clearance with an appropriate feeler gauge.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Lubricate pump gears with transmission fluid
and install them in pump body.
(2) Install thrust washer on reaction shaft support
hub. Lubricate washer with petroleum jelly or trans-
mission fluid before installation.
(3) If reaction shaft seal rings are being replaced,
install new seal rings on support hub. Lubricate seal
rings with transmission fluid or petroleum jelly after
installation. Squeeze each ring until ring ends are
securely hooked together.
Fig. 110 Reaction Shaft Support
1 - OIL PUMP
2 - REACTION SHAFT SUPPORT
Fig. 111 Pump Gears
1 - GEAR BORE
2 - PUMP BODY
3 - INNER GEAR
4 - OUTER GEAR
21 - 214 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48REDR
OIL PUMP (Continued)

CAUTION: The reaction shaft support seal rings will
break if overspread, or twisted. If new rings are
being installed, spread them only enough for instal-
lation. Also be very sure the ring ends are securely
hooked together after installation. Otherwise, the
rings will either prevent pump installation, or break
during installation.
Fig. 112 Oil Pump Assembly
1 - OIL SEAL 7 - BOLTS (6)
2 - VENT BAFFLE 8 - #1 THRUST WASHER (SELECTIVE)
3 - OIL PUMP BODY 9 - INNER GEAR
4 - GASKET 10 - OUTER GEAR
5 - REACTION SHAFT SUPPORT 11 - ªOº RING
6 - SEAL RINGS 12 - TORQUE CONVERTER SEAL RING
Fig. 113 Checking Pump Gear Tip Clearance
1 - FEELER GAUGE
2 - INNER GEAR
3 - OUTER GEAR
DRAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48RE 21 - 215
OIL PUMP (Continued)

OPERATION
To apply the clutch, pressure is applied between
the clutch retainer and piston. The fluid pressure is
provided by the oil pump, transferred through the
control valves and passageways, and enters the
clutch through the hub of the reaction shaft support.
With pressure applied between the clutch retainer
and piston, the piston moves away from the clutch
retainer and compresses the clutch pack. This action
applies the clutch pack, allowing torque to flow
through the input shaft into the driving discs, and
into the clutch plates and pressure plate that are
lugged to the clutch retainer. The waved spring is
used to cushion the application of the clutch pack.
The snap-ring is selective and used to adjust clutch
pack clearance.
When pressure is released from the piston, the
spring returns the piston to its fully released position
and disengages the clutch. The release spring also
helps to cushion the application of the clutch assem-
bly. When the clutch is in the process of being
released by the release spring, fluid flows through a
vent and one-way ball-check-valve located in the pis-
ton. The check-valve is needed to eliminate the pos-
sibility of plate drag caused by centrifugal force
acting on the residual fluid trapped in the clutch pis-
ton retainer.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove fiber thrust washer from forward side
of clutch retainer.
(2) Remove input shaft front and rear seal rings.
(3) Remove selective clutch pack snap-ring (Fig.
214).
(4) Remove the reaction plate, clutch discs, steel
plates, pressure plate, wave spring, spacer ring, and
piston spring (Fig. 214).
(5) Remove clutch piston with rotating motion.
(6) Remove and discard piston seals.
(7) Remove input shaft retaining ring. It may be
necessary to press the input shaft in slightly to
relieve tension on the retaining ring
(8) Press input shaft out of retainer with shop
press and suitable size press tool. Use a suitably
sized press tool to support the retainer as close to the
input shaft as possible.
CLEANING
Clean the clutch components with solvent and dry
them with compressed air. Do not use rags or shop
towels to dry any of the clutch parts. Lint from such
materials will adhere to component surfaces and
could restrict or block fluid passages after assembly.
INSPECTION
Replace the clutch discs if warped, worn, scored,
burned/charred, the lugs are damaged, or if the fac-
ing is flaking off. Replace the top and bottom pres-
sure plates if scored, warped, or cracked. Be sure the
driving lugs on the pressure and clutch plates are
also in good condition. The lugs must not be bent,
cracked or damaged in any way.
Replace the piston spring and wave spring if either
part is distorted, warped or broken.
Check the lug grooves in the clutch retainer. The
clutch and pressure plates should slide freely in the
slots. Replace the retainer if the grooves are worn or
damaged. Also check action of the check balls in the
retainer and piston. Each check ball must move
freely and not stick.
Replace the retainer bushing if worn, scored, or
doubt exists about bushing condition.
Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for
nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed
with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or
retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.
Check condition of the fiber thrust washer and
metal output shaft thrust washer. Replace either
washer if worn or damaged.
Check condition of the seal rings on the input shaft
and clutch retainer hub. Replace the seal rings only
if worn, distorted, or damaged. The input shaft front
seal ring is teflon with chamfered ends. The rear ring
is metal with interlocking ends.
Check the input shaft for wear, or damage. Replace
the shaft if worn, scored or damaged in any way.
21 - 248 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48REDR
REAR CLUTCH (Continued)

(6) Reconnect cable end to attachment stud. Then
with aid of a helper, observe movement of transmis-
sion throttle lever and lever on throttle body.
²If both levers move simultaneously from idle to
half-throttle and back to idle position, adjustment is
correct.
²If transmission throttle lever moves ahead of, or
lags behind throttle body lever, cable adjustment will
be necessary. Or, if throttle body lever prevents
transmission lever from returning to closed position,
cable adjustment will be necessary.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
(1) Turn ignition switch to OFF position.
(2) Remove air cleaner if necessary.
(3) Disconnect cable end from attachment stud.
Carefully slide cable off stud. Do not pry or pull
cable off.
(4) Verify that transmission throttle lever is in
fully closed position. Then be sure lever on throttle
body is at curb idle position.
(5) Pry the T.V. cable lock (A) into the UP position
(Fig. 226). This will unlock the cable and allow for
readjustment.
(6) Apply just enough tension on the T.V. cable (B)
to remove any slack in the cable.Pulling too tight
will cause the T.V. lever on the transmission to
move out of its idle position, which will result
in an incorrect T.V. cable adjustment.Slide the
sheath of the T.V. cable (D) back and forth until the
centerlines of the T.V. cable end (B) and the throttle
bell crank lever (C) are aligned within one millimeter
(1mm) (Fig. 226).
(7) While holding the T.V. cable in the set position
push the T.V. cable lock (A) into the down position
(Fig. 226). This will lock the present T.V. cable
adjustment.
NOTE: Be sure that as the cable is pulled forward
and centered on the throttle lever stud, the cable
housing moves smoothly with the cable. Due to the
angle at which the cable housing enters the spring
housing, the cable housing may bind slightly and
create an incorrect adjustment.
(8) Reconnect the T.V. cable (B) to the throttle
bellcrank lever (C).
(9) Check cable adjustment. Verify transmission
throttle lever and lever on throttle body move simul-
taneously.
TORQUE CONVERTER
DESCRIPTION
The torque converter (Fig. 227) is a hydraulic
device that couples the engine crankshaft to the
transmission. The torque converter consists of an
outer shell with an internal turbine, a stator, an
overrunning clutch, an impeller and an electronically
applied converter clutch. The converter clutch pro-
vides reduced engine speed and greater fuel economy
when engaged. Clutch engagement also provides
reduced transmission fluid temperatures. The torque
converter hub drives the transmission oil (fluid)
pump.
The torque converter is a sealed, welded unit that
is not repairable and is serviced as an assembly.
CAUTION: The torque converter must be replaced if
a transmission failure resulted in large amounts of
metal or fiber contamination in the fluid. If the fluid
is contaminated, flush the all transmission fluid
cooler(s) and lines.
Fig. 227 Torque Converter Assembly
1 - TURBINE
2 - IMPELLER
3 - HUB
4-STATOR
5 - FRONT COVER
6 - CONVERTER CLUTCH DISC
7 - DRIVE PLATE
DRAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48RE 21 - 255
THROTTLE VALVE CABLE (Continued)

STATOR
Torque multiplication is achieved by locking the
stator's over-running clutch to its shaft (Fig. 234).
Under stall conditions the turbine is stationary and
the oil leaving the turbine blades strikes the face of
the stator blades and tries to rotate them in a coun-
terclockwise direction. When this happens the over-
running clutch of the stator locks and holds the
stator from rotating. With the stator locked, the oil
strikes the stator blades and is redirected into a
ªhelpingº direction before it enters the impeller. This
circulation of oil from impeller to turbine, turbine to
stator, and stator to impeller, can produce a maxi-
mum torque multiplication of about 1.75:1. As the
turbine begins to match the speed of the impeller, the
fluid that was hitting the stator in such as way as to
cause it to lock-up is no longer doing so. In this con-
dition of operation, the stator begins to free wheel
and the converter acts as a fluid coupling.
TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH (TCC)
The torque converter clutch is hydraulically
applied or released when fluid is feed or vented from
the hydraulic circuit by the torque converter control
(TCC) solenoid on the valve body. The torque con-
verter clutch is controlled by the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM). The torque converter clutch engages
in FOURTH gear, and in THIRD gear under various
conditions, such as when the O/D switch is OFF, orwhen the vehicle is cruising on a level surface after
the vehicle has warmed up. The torque converter
clutch can also be engaged in the MANUAL SEC-
OND gear position if high transmission temperatures
are sensed by the PCM. The torque converter clutch
may disengage momentarily when an increase in
engine load is sensed by the PCM, such as when the
vehicle begins to go uphill or the throttle pressure is
increased.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and torque converter
from vehicle.
(2) Place a suitable drain pan under the converter
housing end of the transmission.
CAUTION: Verify that transmission is secure on the
lifting device or work surface, the center of gravity
of the transmission will shift when the torque con-
verter is removed creating an unstable condition.
The torque converter is a heavy unit. Use caution
when separating the torque converter from the
transmission.
(3) Pull the torque converter forward until the cen-
ter hub clears the oil pump seal.
(4) Separate the torque converter from the trans-
mission.
INSTALLATION
Check converter hub and drive notches for sharp
edges, burrs, scratches, or nicks. Polish the hub and
notches with 320/400 grit paper or crocus cloth if nec-
essary. The hub must be smooth to avoid damaging
the pump seal at installation.
(1) Lubricate oil pump seal lip with transmission
fluid.
(2) Place torque converter in position on transmis-
sion.
CAUTION: Do not damage oil pump seal or bushing
while inserting torque converter into the front of the
transmission.
(3) Align torque converter to oil pump seal open-
ing.
(4) Insert torque converter hub into oil pump.
(5) While pushing torque converter inward, rotate
converter until converter is fully seated in the oil
pump gears.
Fig. 234 Stator Operation
1 - DIRECTION STATOR WILL FREE WHEEL DUE TO OIL
PUSHING ON BACKSIDE OF VANES
2 - FRONT OF ENGINE
3 - INCREASED ANGLE AS OIL STRIKES VANES
4 - DIRECTION STATOR IS LOCKED UP DUE TO OIL PUSHING
AGAINST STATOR VANES
21 - 260 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48REDR
TORQUE CONVERTER (Continued)

3-4 ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
(1) Remove end plate from housing.
(2) Remove piston spring.
(3) Remove piston. Remove and discard piston
seals (Fig. 304).
CLEANING
Clean the valve housings, valves, plugs, springs,
and separator plates with a standard parts cleaning
solution only. Do not use gasoline, kerosene, or any
type of caustic solution.
Do not immerse any of the electrical components in
cleaning solution. Clean the governor solenoid and
sensor and the dual solenoid and harness assembly
by wiping them off with dry shop towels only.
Dry all except the electrical parts with compressed
air. Make sure all passages are clean and free from
obstructions.Do not use rags or shop towels to
dry or wipe off valve body components. Lint
from these materials can stick to valve body
parts, interfere with valve operation, and clog
filters and fluid passages.
Wipe the governor pressure sensor and solenoid
valve with dry, lint free shop towels only. The O-rings
on the sensor and solenoid valve are the only service-
able components. Be sure the vent ports in the sole-
noid valve are open and not blocked by dirt or debris.
Replace the valve and/or sensor only when DRB scan
tool diagnosis indicates this is necessary. Or, if eitherpart has sustained physical damage (dented,
deformed, broken, etc.).
CAUTION: Do not turn the small screw at the end of
the solenoid valve for any reason. Turning the
screw in either direction will ruin solenoid calibra-
tion and result in solenoid failure. In addition, the
filter on the solenoid valve is NOT serviceable. Do
not try to remove the filter as this will damage the
valve housing.
INSPECTION
Inspect the throttle and manual valve levers and
shafts. Do not attempt to straighten a bent shaft or
correct a loose lever. Replace these components if
worn, bent, loose or damaged in any way.
Inspect all of the valve body mating surfaces for
scratches, nicks, burrs, or distortion. Use a straight-
edge to check surface flatness. Minor scratches may
be removed with crocus cloth using only very light
pressure.
Minor distortion of a valve body mating surface
may be corrected by smoothing the surface with a
sheet of crocus cloth. Position the crocus cloth on a
surface plate, sheet of plate glass or equally flat sur-
face. If distortion is severe or any surfaces are
heavily scored, the valve body will have to be
replaced.
CAUTION: Many of the valves and plugs, such as
the throttle valve, shuttle valve plug, 1-2 shift valve
and 1-2 governor plug, are made of coated alumi-
num. Aluminum components are identified by the
dark color of the special coating applied to the sur-
face (or by testing with a magnet). Do not sand alu-
minum valves or plugs under any circumstances.
This practice could damage the special coating
causing the valves/plugs to stick and bind.
Inspect the valves and plugs for scratches, burrs,
nicks, or scores. Minor surface scratches on steel
valves and plugs can be removed with crocus cloth
butdo not round off the edges of the valve or
plug lands.Maintaining sharpness of these edges is
vitally important. The edges prevent foreign matter
from lodging between the valves and plugs and the
bore.
Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the valve
body. Use a penlight to view the bore interiors.
Replace the valve body if any bores are distorted or
scored. Inspect all of the valve body springs. The
springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken
coils.
Fig. 304 3-4 Accumulator and Housing
1 - ACCUMULATOR PISTON
2 - 3-4 ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
3 - TEFLON SEALS
4 - PISTON SPRING
5 - COVER PLATE AND SCREWS
21 - 298 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48REDR
VALVE BODY (Continued)

GOVERNOR BODY, SENSOR AND SOLENOID
(1) Turn valve body assembly over so accumulator
side of transfer plate is facing down.
(2) Install new O-rings on governor pressure sole-
noid and sensor.
(3) Lubricate solenoid and sensor O-rings with
clean transmission fluid.
(4) Install governor pressure sensor in governor
body.
(5) Install governor pressure solenoid in governor
body. Push solenoid in until it snaps into place in
body.
(6) Position governor body gasket on transfer
plate.
(7) Install retainer plate on governor body and
around solenoid. Be sure solenoid connector is posi-
tioned in retainer cutout.
(8) Align screw holes in governor body and trans-
fer plate. Then install and tighten governor body
screws to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.) torque.
(9) Connect harness wires to governor pressure
solenoid and governor pressure sensor.
(10) Install fluid filter and pan.
(11) Lower vehicle.
(12) Fill transmission with recommended fluid and
road test vehicle to verify repair.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check condition of O-ring seals on valve body
harness connector (Fig. 327). Replace seals on con-
nector body if cut or worn.
(2) Check condition of manual lever shaft seal in
transmission case. Replace seal if lip is cut or worn.
Install new seal with 15/16 deep well socket (Fig.
328).
(3) Check condition of seals on accumulator piston.
Install new piston seals, if necessary.
(4) Place valve body manual lever in low (1 posi-
tion) so ball on park lock rod will be easier to install
in sprag.
(5) Lubricate shaft of manual lever with petroleum
jelly. This will ease inserting shaft through seal in
case.
(6) Lubricate seal rings on valve body harness con-
nector with petroleum jelly.
(7) Position valve body in case and work end of
park lock rod into and through pawl sprag. Turn pro-
peller shaft to align sprag and park lock teeth if nec-
essary. The rod will click as it enters pawl. Move rod
to check engagement.
CAUTION: It is possible for the park rod to displace
into a cavity just above the pawl sprag during
installation. Make sure the rod is actually engaged
in the pawl and has not displaced into this cavity.(8) Install accumulator spring and piston into case.
Then swing valve body over piston and outer spring
to hold it in place.
(9) Align accumulator piston and outer spring,
manual lever shaft and electrical connector in case.
(10) Then seat valve body in case and install one
or two bolts to hold valve body in place.
(11) Tighten valve body bolts alternately and
evenly to 11 N´m (100 in. lbs.) torque.
(12) Install new fluid filter on valve body. Tighten
filter screws to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install throttle and gearshift levers on valve
body manual lever shaft.
(14) Check and adjust front and rear bands if nec-
essary.
(15) Install the transmission range sensor (Refer
to 21 - TRANSMISSION/AUTOMATIC/TRANSMIS-
SION RANGE SENSOR - INSTALLATION).
(16) Connect solenoid case connector wires.
(17) Install oil pan and new gasket. Tighten pan
bolts to 13.6 N´m (125 in. lbs.) torque.
(18) Lower vehicle and fill transmission with
MopartATF +4, Automatic Transmission fluid.
(19) Check and adjust gearshift and throttle valve
cables, if necessary.
Fig. 327 Valve Body Harness Connector O-Ring Seal
1 - CONNECTOR O-RINGS
2 - VALVE BODY HARNESS CONNECTOR
3 - HARNESS
DRAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48RE 21 - 309
VALVE BODY (Continued)