Ball joint DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Owner's Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: DODGE, Model Year: 1998, Model line: RAM 1500, Model: DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.GPages: 2627
Page 102 of 2627

(8) Tilt knuckle out and push half shaft out of the
knuckle (Fig. 2).
(9) Remove half shaft from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean hub bearing bore, hub bearing mating
surface and half shaft splines.
(2) Apply a light coating of grease to the front axle
shaft output splines.
(3) Install half shaft into the knuckle (Fig. 3).(4) Install half shaft on axle shaft. Push firmly to
engage axle shaft snap ring into the inner C/V hous-
ing.
(5) Install upper ball joint into the knuckle.
(6) Install upper ball joint nut and tighten to spec-
ification.
(7) Install lower shock absorber bolt and tighten to
specification.
(8) Install brake rotor and caliper.
(9) Install half shaft hub nut and tighten to 251
N´m (185 ft. lbs.).
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Half Shaft Nut 251 185 -
SPECIAL TOOLS
Fig. 2 STEERING KNUCKLE
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - SHOCK
3 - HALFSHAFT
4 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
5 - HUB/BEARING
Fig. 3 HALF SHAFT AND HUB/BEARING
1 - HUB/BEARING MOUNTING NUTS
2 - HALF SHAFT
CLAMP INSTALLER C-4975A
DRHALF SHAFT 3 - 21
HALF SHAFT (Continued)
Page 103 of 2627

CV JOINT-OUTER
REMOVAL
(1) Clamp shaft in a vise (with soft jaws) and sup-
port C/V joint.
CAUTION: Do not damage C/V housing or half
shaft.
(2) Remove clamps (2) (4) with a cut-off wheel or
grinder (Fig. 4).
(3) Slide the boot down the shaft.
(4) Remove lubricant to expose the C/V joint snap
ring.(5) Spread snap ring (1) and slide the joint off the
shaft (Fig. 5).
(6) Slide boot off the shaft and discard old boot.
(7) Mark alignment marks (1) on the inner race/
hub (2), bearing cage (3) and housing with dabs of
paint (Fig. 6).
(8) Clamp C/V joint in a vertical position in a soft
jawed vise.
(9) Press down one side of the bearing cage (3) to
gain access to the ball at the opposite side.
NOTE: If joint is tight, use a hammer and brass drift
to loosen the bearing hub. Do not contact the bear-
ing cage with the drift.
Fig. 4 BOOT CLAMP LOCATIONS
1 - C/V HOUSING
2 - CLAMP
3 - HALF SHAFT
4 - CLAMP
5 - C/V BOOT
Fig. 5 OUTER C/V JOINT
1 - SNAP RING
2 - SNAP RING GROVE
3 - SNAP RING PLIERS
Fig. 6 BEARING ACCESS
1 - ALIGNMENT MARKS
2 - BEARING HUB
3 - BEARING CAGE
4 - HOUSING
Fig. 7 BEARING
1 - HOUSING
2 - INNER RACE/HUB
3 - BEARING CAGE
4 - BALL
3 - 22 HALF SHAFTDR
Page 104 of 2627

(10) Remove ball (4) from the bearing cage (3) (Fig.
7).
(11) Repeat step above until all six balls are
removed from the bearing cage.
(12) Lift cage and inner race (2) upward and out
from the housing (1) (Fig. 8).
(13) Turn inner race 90É in the cage and rotate the
inner race/hub out of the cage (Fig. 9).INSTALLATION
NOTE: If C/V joint is worn, replace entire C/V joint
and boot.
(1) Clean all C/V joint components and shaft.
(2) Apply a light coat of grease supplied with the
joint/boot to the C/V joint components before assem-
bling them.
(3) Align the inner race, cage and housing accord-
ing to the alignment reference marks.
(4) Insert the inner race into the cage (Fig. 10) and
rotate race into the cage.
(5) Rotate the inner race/hub in the cage (Fig. 11).
(6) Insert cage into the housing (Fig. 12). Rotate
the cage 90É into the housing so the large bearing
hub counterbore is facing outwards.
Fig. 8 CAGE AND INNER RACE/HUB
1 - HOUSING
2 - INNER RACE
3 - CAGE WINDOW
Fig. 9 INNER RACE/HUB
Fig. 10 INNER RACE/HUB
1 - INNER RACE/HUB
2 - BEARING CAGE
Fig. 11 CAGE AND INNER RACE/HUB
1 - CAGE WINDOWS
2 - SNAP RING
DRHALF SHAFT 3 - 23
CV JOINT-OUTER (Continued)
Page 105 of 2627

(7) Apply the grease supplied with the joint/boot to
the ball races. Spread the grease equally between all
the races.
(8) Tilt inner race/hub and cage and install the
balls (Fig. 13).
(9) Place new clamps onto new boot and slide boot
onto the shaft to it's original position.
(10) Apply the rest of grease to the C/V joint and
boot.
(11) Install the joint onto the shaft. Push the joint
onto the shaft until the snap ring seats in the groove
(Fig. 14).NOTE: Pull on the joint to verify the span ring has
engaged.
(12) Position the boot on the joint in it's original
position.
NOTE: Verify boot is not twisted and remove any
excess air.
(13) Secure both boot clamps (Fig. 15) with Clamp
Installer C-4975A. Place tool on clamp bridge and
tighten tool until jaws of the tool are closed.
Fig. 12 BEARING CAGE AND HOUSING
1 - OUTER RACE
2 - BEARING CAGE WINDOW
3 - CV JOINT HOUSING
Fig. 13 BALL BEARING
1 - C/V HOUSING
2 - INNER RACE/HUB
3 - BEARING CAGE
4 - BEARING
Fig. 14 OUTER C/V JOINT
1 - SNAP RING
2 - SHAFT TAPER
3 - SNAP RING GROVE
4 - BEARING HUB
Fig. 15 BOOT CLAMP LOCATIONS
1 - C/V HOUSING
2 - CLAMP
3 - HALF SHAFT
4 - CLAMP
5 - C/V BOOT
3 - 24 HALF SHAFTDR
CV JOINT-OUTER (Continued)
Page 1516 of 2627

OIL COOLER & LINES
CLEANING
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the sealing surfaces.
Apply 483 kPa (70 psi) air pressure to the element
to check for leaks. If the element leaks, replace the
element.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
(1) Clean the area around the oil filter head.
Remove the filter from below using a cap-style filter
wrench.
(2) Clean the gasket surface of the filter head. The
filter canister O-Ring seal can stick on the filter
head. Make sure it is removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the oil filter element with clean oil before
installation. Use the same type oil that will be used
in the engine.
(2) Apply a light film of lubricating oil to the seal-
ing surface before installing the filter.
CAUTION: Mechanical over-tightening may distort
the threads or damage the filter element seal.
(3) Install the filter until it contacts the sealing
surface of the oil filter adapter. Tighten filter an
additional
1¤2turn.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Install engine support fixture # 8534.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(5) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(6) Remove flywheel or flexplate.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(8) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).(9) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing surface
is not damaged and tighten to 50 N´m (37 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(10) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(11) Remove oil pan and suction tube.
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and
cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be
required around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and
flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces
for cracks and damage. Replace any defective compo-
nent. Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole
threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for
straightness. Repair any minor imperfections with a
ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil
pan by welding.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear hous-
ing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use
MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equiva-
lent.
(2) Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them
into place. Using a new tube to block gasket, install
and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting
with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the bolts to 24
N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube
brace bolts to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Starting in the center and working outward,
tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the flywheel housing assembly with the
starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 N´m
(57 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect starter motor cables.
(6) Install the flywheel or flexplate. Torque to 137
N´m (101 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
(10) Install battery negative cables.
(11) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(12) Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine,
check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 293
Page 1658 of 2627

BINDING AND STICKING
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
DIFFICULT TO TURN WHEEL
STICKS OR BINDS1. Low fluid level. 1. Fill to proper level.
2. Tire pressure. 2. Adjust tire pressure.
3. Steering components (ball
joints/tie rod ends).3 Inspect and repair as necessary.
4. Loose belt. 4. Adjust or replace.
5. Low pump pressure. 5. Pressure test and replace if
necessary.
6. Column shaft coupler binding. 6. Replace coupler.
7. Steering gear worn. 7. Replace gear.
8. Pump seized / Stuck valve 8. Replace pump.
INSUFFICIENT ASST. OR POOR RETURN TO CENTER
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
HARD TURNING OR MOMENTARY
INCREASE IN TURNING EFFORT1. Tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Low fluid level. 2. Fill to proper level.
3. Loose belt. 3. Adjust or replace.
4. Low pump pressure. 4. Pressure test and repair as
necessary.
5. Internal gear leak. 5. Replace gear.
STEERING WHEEL DOES NOT
WANT TO RETURN TO CENTER
POSITION1. Tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Wheel alignment. 2. Align front end.
3. Lack of lubrication. 3. Inspect and lubricate suspension
compnents.
4. High friction in steering gear. 4. Replace gear.
LOOSE STEERING AND VEHICLE LEAD
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE PLAY IN STEERING
WHEEL1. Worn or loose suspension or
steering components.1. Inspect and repair as necessary.
2. Worn or loose wheel bearings. 2. Inspect and repair or adjust
bearings.
3. Steering gear mounting. 3. Tighten gear mounting bolts to
specification.
4. Gear out of adjustment. 4. Replace gear.
5. Worn or loose steering coupler. 5. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
VEHICLE PULLS OR LEADS TO
ONE SIDE.1. Tire Pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Radial tire lead. 2. Rotate tires.
3. Brakes dragging. 3. Repair as necessary.
4. Wheel alignment. 4. Align front end.
DRSTEERING 19 - 3
STEERING (Continued)
Page 1687 of 2627

LINKAGE - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
LINKAGE - INDEPENDENT FRONT
SUSPENSION
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - OUTER TIE ROD
END ................................32TIE ROD END
REMOVAL - OUTER TIE ROD END..........32
INSTALLATION - OUTER TIE ROD END......33
LINKAGE - INDEPENDENT
FRONT SUSPENSION
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - OUTER TIE ROD
END
NOTE: If the outer tie rod end is equipped with a
lubrication fitting, grease the joint then road test
the vehicle before performing test.
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle. Place safety floor
stands under both lower control arms as far outboard
as possible. Lower the vehicle to allow the stands to
support some or all of the vehicle weight.
(2) Remove the front tires.
(3) Mount a dial indicator solidly to the vehicle
steering knuckle and then zero the dial indicator.
(4) Position indicator plunger on the topside of the
outer tie rod end.
NOTE: The dial indicator plunger must be perpen-
dicular to the machined surface of the outer tie rod
end.
(5) Position a pry bar in order to pry downwards
on the outer tie rod end.
(6) If the travel exceeds 0.5 mm (0.020 in.), replace
the outer tie rod end (Refer to 19 - STEERING/
LINKAGE/TIE ROD END - REMOVAL).
(7) If the outer tie rod end is within specs reinstall
the front tires (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/
WHEELS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
TIE ROD END
REMOVAL - OUTER TIE ROD END
NOTE: Do not twist the boot anytime during
removal or installation.
(1) Loosen the jam nut.
(2) Remove the outer tie rod end nut from the ball
stud.
(3) Separate the tie rod ball stud from the knuckle
with Remover 8677 (Fig. 1).
(4) Unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner
tie rod.
Fig. 1 TIE ROD SEPARATION
1 - TIE ROD END
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8677
19 - 32 LINKAGE - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSIONDR
Page 1690 of 2627

SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Pitman Arm
Gear Shaft Nut300 225 Ð
Drag Link
Pitman Arm88 65 Ð
Drag Link
Tie Rod108 80 Ð
Drag Link
Adjuster Clamp61 45 Ð
Tie Rod End
Knuckle108 80 Ð
Tie Rod End
Adjuster Clamp61 45 Ð
Stabilizer Bar Link to Axle 68 50 Ð
Steering Damper
Axle95 70 Ð
Steering Damper
Tie Rod81 60 Ð
SPECIAL TOOLS
STEERING LINKAGE
Remover Ball Stud MB-991113
Puller Tie Rod C-3894-A
Remover Ball Joint C-4150A
DRLINKAGE - LINK/COIL 19 - 35
LINKAGE - LINK/COIL (Continued)
Page 1720 of 2627

Inspect output shaft bearing retainer, the
U-shaped retainer must be flat and free of distortion.
Replace the retainer if the threads are damaged or if
the retainer is bent or cracked.
COUNTERSHAFT BEARINGS AND RACES
The countershaft bearings and races are machine
lapped during manufacture to form matched sets.
The bearings and races should not be interchanged.
NOTE: The bearing races are a permanent press fit
in the housings and are NOT serviceable. If a bear-
ing race becomes damaged, the front or rear hous-
ing must be replaced. A new countershaft bearing
will be supplied with each new housing for service
use.
REVERSE IDLER COMPONENTS
Inspect the idler gear, bearing, shaft, thrust
washer, wave washer and thrust plate. Replace the
bearing if any of the needle bearing rollers are worn,
chipped, cracked, flat-spotted or brinnelled. Also
replace the bearing if the plastic bearing cage is
damaged or distorted.
Replace thrust washer, wave washer or thrust
plate if cracked, chipped or worn. Replace idler gear
if the teeth are chipped, cracked or worn thin.
Replace shaft if worn, scored or the bolt threads are
damaged beyond repair. Replace support segment if
cracked or chipped and replace the idler attaching
bolts if the threads are damaged.
Shift Socket
Inspect the shift socket for wear or damage.
Replace the socket if the roll pin or shift shaft bores
are damaged. Minor nicks in the shift lever ball seat
in the socket can be smoothed down with 400 grit
emery or wet/dry paper. Replace the socket if the ball
seat is worn or cracked. Do not reuse the original
shift socket roll pin. Install anewpin during assem-
bly. The socket roll pin is approximately 33 mm
(1-1/4 in.) long.
Output Shaft And Geartrain
Inspect all gears for worn, cracked, chipped or bro-
ken teeth. Also check condition of the bearing bore in
each gear. The bores should be smooth and free of
surface damage. Discoloration of the gear bores is a
normal occurrence and is not a reason for replace-
ment. Replace gears only when tooth damage has
occurred or if the bores are brinnelled or severely
scored.
Inspect the shaft splines and bearings surfaces.
Minor nicks on the bearing surfaces can be smoothed
with 320/420 grit emery and final polished with cro-
cus cloth. Replace the shaft if the splines are dam-aged or bearing surfaces are deeply scored, worn or
brinnelled.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: Sealers are used at all case joints. Use
Mopar Gasket Maker or equivalent for all case joints
and Mopar silicone sealer or equivalent for the
input shaft bearing retainer.
SYNCHRONIZER
(1) Slide sleeve onto the hub, leaving enough room
to install the spring in the hub and strut in the hub
groove.
(2) Install first spring in the hub, then install a
strut over the spring. Verify spring is seated in the
spring bore in the strut.
(3) Slide sleeve onto the hub far enough to hold
the first strut and spring in place.
(4) Place detent ball in the top of the strut, then
press the ball into place with a small screwdriver.
Work the sleeve over the ball to hold it in place.
(5) Repeat procedure for the remaining springs,
struts and balls. Use tape or rubber bands to tempo-
rarily secure each strut and ball as they are
installed.
(6) Verify the synchro three springs, struts and
detent balls are all in place (Fig. 49).
Fig. 49 SYNCHRONIZER COMPONENTS
1 - SLEEVE
2 - HUB SHOULDER
3 - SPRING (3)
4 - STRUT (3)
5 - DETENT BALL (3)
6 - HUB
DRMANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 21 - 17
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 (Continued)
Page 1849 of 2627

DIAGNOSIS CHARTS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
HARSH ENGAGEMENT
(FROM NEUTRAL TO
DRIVE OR REVERSE)1. Fluid Level Low. 1. Add Fluid
2. Throttle Linkage Mis-adjusted. 2. Adjust linkage - setting may be too long.
3. Mount and Driveline Bolts Loose. 3. Check engine mount, transmission
mount, propeller shaft, rear spring to body
bolts, rear control arms, crossmember and
axle bolt torque. Tighten loose bolts and
replace missing bolts.
4. U-Joint Worn/Broken. 4. Remove propeller shaft and replace
U-Joint.
5. Axle Backlash Incorrect. 5. Check per Service Manual. Correct as
needed.
6. Hydraulic Pressure Incorrect. 6. Check pressure. Remove, overhaul or
adjust valve body as needed.
7. Band Mis-adjusted. 7. Adjust rear band.
8. Valve Body Check Balls Missing. 8. Inspect valve body for proper check ball
installation.
9. Axle Pinion Flange Loose. 9. Replace nut and check pinion threads
before installing new nut. Replace pinion
gear if threads are damaged.
10. Clutch, band or planetary
component damaged.10. Remove, disassemble and repair
transmission as necessary.
11. Converter Clutch Faulty. 11. Replace converter and flush cooler and
line before installing new converter.
21 - 146 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48REDR
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48RE (Continued)