service DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

HOUSING - REMOVAL). Check the turning effort of
the key cylinder. If the ignition key cylinder effort is
excessive replace the key cylinder.
REMOVAL
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
NOTE: The steering column on vehicles equipped
with an automatic transmission is not equipped
with an internal locking shaft with the ignition cyl-
inder. Alternative methods of locking the steering
wheel for service will have to be used.
The tilt and standard column (Fig. 8) have been
designed to be serviced as an assembly; without wir-
ing, switches, shrouds, steering wheel, etc. Most
steering column components can be serviced without
removing the steering column from the vehicle.
Safety goggles should be worn at all times when
working on steering columns.
To service the steering wheel, switches or airbag,
Refer to Electrical Restraints and follow all WARN-
INGS and CAUTIONS.
WARNING: THE AIRBAG SYSTEM IS A SENSITIVE,
COMPLEX ELECTRO-MECHANICAL UNIT. BEFORE
ATTEMPTING TO DIAGNOSE, REMOVE OR INSTALL
THE AIRBAG SYSTEM COMPONENTS YOU MUST
FIRST DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY
NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE. THEN WAIT TWO
MINUTES FOR THE SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DIS-
CHARGE. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN
ACCIDENTAL DEPLOYMENT OF THE AIRBAG ANDPOSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY. THE FASTENERS,
SCREWS, AND BOLTS, ORIGINALLY USED FOR
THE AIRBAG COMPONENTS, HAVE SPECIAL COAT-
INGS AND ARE SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR THE
AIRBAG SYSTEM. THEY MUST NEVER BE
REPLACED WITH ANY SUBSTITUTES. ANYTIME A
NEW FASTENER IS NEEDED, REPLACE WITH THE
CORRECT FASTENERS PROVIDED IN THE SERVICE
PACKAGE OR FASTENERS LISTED IN THE PARTS
BOOKS.
CAUTION: Do not hammer on steering column
shaft. This may cause damage to the shaft or bear-
ing.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to remove the pivot bolts
to disassemble the tilting mechanism.
The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for
cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed
first before removing ignition switch.
(1) Remove the negative (ground) cable from the
battery.
(2) Disable the airbag, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
RESTRAINTS/DRIVER AIRBAG - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the lower and upper shrouds.
(4) Remove key cylinder. (Refer to 19 - STEER-
ING/COLUMN/LOCK CYLINDER HOUSING -
REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect the lower clockspring connectors.
(6) Remove the wire retainer from the tilt lever
bracket.
(7) Remove the tilt lever mounting screws to gain
access to the ignition switch mounting screws. (Fig.
9)
Fig. 8 STEERING COLUMN
1 - KEY CYLINDER
2 - GEAR SHIFT LEVER
3 - MOUNTING HOLES
4 - STEERING COLUMN
5 - IGNITION SWITCH
Fig. 9 IGNITION SWITCH WITH TILT
1 - IGNITION SWITCH
2 - TILT LEVER MECHANISM
19 - 10 COLUMNDR
IGNITION SWITCH (Continued)

(2) Cycle the key from ACC to RUN and ensure
that the blocker does not stick or bind.
(3) Turn the key to the OFF position and ensure
that the shifter will not pull from the PARK position.
(4) Connect the over drive switch harness (if
equipped).
NOTE: Route and tie off harness to original loca-
tion.
(5) Connect the shift cable to the lever.
(6) Ensure the gear shift lever and transmission
are in the PARK position and snap the cable adjust
clip in place.
(7) Install a new brake light switch (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the SKIM and halo.
(9) Install the upper and lower column shroud.
(10) Install the column back into place and
tighten.
(11) Install the kneeblocker. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
UPPER STEERING COUPLING
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
NOTE: The steering column on vehicles with an
automatic transmission may not be equipped with
an internal locking shaft that allows the ignition key
cylinder to be locked with the key. Alternative meth-
ods of locking the steering wheel for service will
have to be used.(2) Lock the steering wheel with the tire in the
straight position.
(3) Remove and discard the lower pinch bolt.
(4) Lower the steering coupler shaft from the col-
umn.
(5) Remove the upper steering coupling shaft seal
by pushing in the four tags securing it to the panel
(Fig. 16).
(6) Remove and discard the lower coupler pinch
bolt from the lower steering coupling shaft (Fig. 17).
(7) Remove the upper steering coupling shaft from
the vehicle (Fig. 17).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the upper steering coupling shaft to the
vehicle (Fig. 17).
Fig. 15 GEAR SHIFT LEVER SPRING
1 - BLOCKER TO INHIBIT LINK SLOT
2 - GEAR SHIFT LEVER
Fig. 16 RELEASE TANGS
1 - RELEASE TANGS (4)
2 - UPPER STEERING COUPLER SHAFT
Fig. 17 UPPER STEERING COUPLER SHAFT
1 - LOWER STEERING COUPLER
2 - RELEASE TANGS (4)
3 - UPPER STEERING COUPLER SHAFT
DRCOLUMN 19 - 13
GEAR SHIFT LEVER (Continued)

(2) Install the upper steering coupling shaft seal
by pushing it in securing the four tangs to the panel
(Fig. 16).
NOTE: Note: A new steering coupling shaft pinch
bolt for the upper and lower shafts must be used.
(3) Install the steering coupler shaft to the column
(Fig. 17).
(4) Install the upper pinch bolt use new bolt and
tighten to 57 N.m (42 ft.lbs).
(5) Install the shaft to the lower coupler (Fig. 17).
(6) Install the lower pinch bolt use new bolt and
tighten to 57 N.m (42 ft.lbs).
(7) Unlock the steering wheel.
(8) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
LOWER STEERING COUPLING
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - ALL LD & HD EXCEPT 4X4 HD
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
NOTE: The steering column on vehicles with an
automatic transmission may not be equipped with
an internal locking shaft that allows the ignition key
cylinder to be locked with the key. Alternative meth-
ods of locking the steering wheel for service will
have to be used.
(3) Lock the steering wheel with the tire in the
straight position.
(4) Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly.
(5) Mark both coupler connections for proper
installation.
(6) Remove and discard the upper coupler pinch
bolt.
(7) Remove and discard the lower coupler pinch
bolt.
(8) Remove the lower steering shaft coupler (Fig.
18).
REMOVAL - 4X4 HD
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
NOTE: The steering column on vehicles with an
automatic transmission may not be equipped with
an internal locking shaft that allows the ignition key
cylinder to be locked with the key. Alternative meth-
ods of locking the steering wheel for service will
have to be used.(3) Lock the steering wheel with the tire in the
straight position.
(4) Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly.
(5) Remove and discard the upper coupler pinch
bolt (Fig. 20).
(6) Remove and discard the lower coupler pinch
bolt (Fig. 19).
(7) Remove the lower steering shaft coupler (Fig.
20).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - ALL LD & HD EXCEPT 4X4
HD
(1) Install the coupler to the steering rack & pin-
ion using the marks made in the removal process.
Fig. 18 LOWER STEERING COUPLER
Fig. 19 LOWER COUPLER PINCH BOLT
1 - INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT
2 - LOWER COUPLING BOLT
3 - STEERING GEAR
19 - 14 COLUMNDR
UPPER STEERING COUPLING (Continued)

GEAR - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
GEAR - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION
DESCRIPTION.........................17
REMOVAL.............................17
INSTALLATION.........................18
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................19BUSHING
REMOVAL.............................19
INSTALLATION.........................19
GEAR - INDEPENDENT FRONT
SUSPENSION
DESCRIPTION
A rack and pinion steering gears (Fig. 1) is made
up of two main components, the pinon shaft and the
rack. The gear cannot be adjusted or internally ser-
viced. If a malfunction or a fluid leak occurs, the gear
must be replaced as an assembly.
REMOVAL
NOTE: The steering column on vehicles with an
automatic transmission may not be equipped with
an internal locking shaft that allows the ignition key
cylinder to be locked with the key. Alternative meth-
ods of locking the steering wheel for service will
have to be used.
(1) Lock the steering wheel.(2) Drain and siphon the power steering fluid from
the reservoir.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove and discard the steering coupler pinch
bolt.
(5) Remove the power steering hoses from the rack
& pinion.
(6) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(7) Remove the tie rod end nuts and separate tie
rod ends from the knuckles with Special tool 8677
(Refer to 19 - STEERING/LINKAGE/TIE ROD END -
REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the skid plate (Refer to 13 - FRAME &
BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT SKID PLATE -
REMOVAL).
(9) Remove the rack & pinion mounting bolts. (Fig.
2) & (Fig. 3)
(10) Remove the rack & pinion from the vehicle.
Fig. 1 STEERING GEAR
1 - OUTER TIE ROD ENDS
2 - MOUNTING BUSHINGS
3 - BELLOWS
Fig. 2 STEERING GEAR MOUNTING BOLTS
1 - STEERING GEAR MOUNTING BOLTS 4X4
DRGEAR - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION 19 - 17

GEAR - LINK/COIL
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
GEAR - LINK/COIL
DESCRIPTION.........................20
OPERATION...........................20
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................21
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................21
SPECIFICATIONS
POWER STEERING GEAR..............22
TORQUE CHART......................23
SPECIAL TOOLS
POWER STEERING GEAR..............23
PITMAN SHAFT SEAL
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - GAS ENGINE...............25REMOVAL - DIESEL...................25
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - GAS ENGINE...........26
INSTALLATION - DIESEL................26
STEERING GEAR INPUT SHAFT SEAL
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................29
PITMAN SHAFT
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - GAS......................30
REMOVAL - DIESEL...................30
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - GAS..................31
INSTALLATION - DIESEL................31
GEAR - LINK/COIL
DESCRIPTION
The power steering gear is a recirculating ball type
gear (Fig. 1). The gear ratio's used are 12.5:1.
OPERATION
The gear acts as a rolling thread between the
worm shaft and rack piston. The worm shaft is sup-
ported by a thrust bearing at the lower end and a
bearing assembly at the upper end. When the worm
shaft is turned from input from the steering column
the rack piston moves. The rack piston teeth mesh
with the pitman shaft. Turning the worm shaft, turns
the pitman shaft, which turns the steering linkage.
REMOVAL
(1) Place the front wheels in a straight-ahead posi-
tion.
NOTE: The steering column on vehicles with an
automatic transmission may not be equipped with
an internal locking shaft that allows the ignition key
cylinder to be locked with the key. Alternative meth-
ods of locking the steering wheel for service will
have to be used.
(2) Lock the steering wheel.
(3) Siphon out as much power steering fluid as
possible.
Fig. 1 STEERING GEAR
1 - INPUT SHAFT
2 - OUTLET
3 - INLET
4 - VALVE ASSEMBLY HOUSING
5 - PITMAN SHAFT COVER BOLTS
6 - STEERING GEAR
7 - MESHLOAD ADJUSTER NUT
8 - PITMAN SHAFT
19 - 20 GEAR - LINK/COILDR

LINKAGE - LINK/COIL
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
LINKAGE - LINK/COIL
DESCRIPTION.........................34
STANDARD PROCEDURE - LUBRICATION....34
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................35
SPECIAL TOOLS
STEERING LINKAGE...................35
DAMPER
REMOVAL.............................36
INSTALLATION.........................36
DRAG LINK
REMOVAL.............................36INSTALLATION.........................36
PITMAN ARM
REMOVAL.............................36
INSTALLATION.........................37
TIE ROD END
REMOVAL.............................37
INSTALLATION.........................37
TRACK BAR
REMOVAL.............................38
INSTALLATION.........................38
LINKAGE - LINK/COIL
DESCRIPTION
The steering linkage is comprised of a tie rod end, tie
rod, drag link, steering damper and pitman arm (Fig. 1).
CAUTION: If any steering components are replaced
or serviced an alignment must be performed.
NOTE: To avoid damaging ball stud seals, use
Puller C-3894±A or an appropriate puller to remove
tie rod ends (Fig. 2).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - LUBRICATION
Periodic lubrication of the steering system compo-
nents is required. Refer to Lubrication And Mainte-
nance for the recommended maintenance schedule.
The following components must be lubricated:
²Tie rod
²Tie rod end
²Drag link
Fig. 1 LINK/COIL FRONT SUSPENSION
1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - PITMAN ARM
3 - STEERING GEAR
4 - STABILIZER LINK
5 - TIE ROD ENDS
6 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARMS
7 - DRAG LINK
8 - TRACK BAR
9 - DAMPER
10 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
Fig. 2 Ball Stud Puller
1 - CLAMP
2 - ADJUSTMENT SLEEVE
3 - PULLER TOOL C-3894±A
4 - SEAL
5 - TIE-ROD END
19 - 34 LINKAGE - LINK/COILDR

OPERATION
Hydraulic pressure is provided for the power steer-
ing gear by the belt driven power steering pump (Fig.
1). The power steering pumps are constant flow rate
and displacement, vane-type pumps.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PUMP LEAKAGE
The pump is serviced as an assembly and should
not be disassembled. The plastic pump reservoir and
the reservoir o-rings can be replaced.
Check for leaks in the following areas:
²Pump shaft seal behind the pulley
²Pump to reservoir O-ring
²Reservoir cap
²Pressure and return lines
²Flow control valve fitting
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - POWER STEERING
PUMP - INITIAL OPERATION
WARNING: THE FLUID LEVEL SHOULD BE
CHECKED WITH ENGINE OFF TO PREVENT INJURY
FROM MOVING COMPONENTS.
CAUTION: MOPARTATF+4 is to be used in the
power steering system. No other power steering or
automatic transmission fluid is to be used in the
system. Damage may result to the power steeringpump and system if any other fluid is used, and do
not overfill.
Wipe filler cap clean, then check the fluid level.
The dipstick should indicateCOLDwhen the fluid is
at normal temperature.
(1) Turn steering wheel all the way to the left
(2) Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level
and let the fluid settle for at least two (2) minutes.
(3) Raise the front wheels off the ground.
(4) Slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock 20
times with the engine off while checking the fluid
level.
NOTE: For vehicles with long return lines or oil
coolers turn wheel 40 times.
(5) Start the engine. With the engine idling main-
tain the fluid level.
(6) Lower the front wheels and let the engine idle
for two minutes.
(7) Turn the steering wheel in both direction and
verify power assist and quiet operation of the pump.
If the fluid is extremely foamy or milky looking,
allow the vehicle to stand a few minutes and repeat
the procedure.
CAUTION: Do not run a vehicle with foamy fluid for
an extended period. This may cause pump damage.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUSHING POWER
STEERING SYSTEM
Flushing is required when the power steering/hy-
draulic booster system fluid has become contami-
nated. Contaminated fluid in the steering/booster
system can cause seal deterioration and affect steer-
ing gear/booster spool valve operation.
(1) Raise the front end of the vehicle off the
ground until the wheels are free to turn.
(2) Remove the return line from the pump.
NOTE: If vehicle is equipped with a hydraulic
booster remove both return lines from the pump.
(3) Plug the return line port/ports at the pump.
(4) Position the return line/lines into a large con-
tainer to catch the fluid.
(5) While an assistant is filling the pump reservoir
start the engine.
(6) With the engine running at idle turn the wheel
back and forth.
NOTE: Do not contact or hold the wheel against the
steering stops.
(7) Run a quart of fluid through the system then
stop the engine and install the return line/lines.
Fig. 1 POWER STEERING PUMP
1 - 3.7L & 4.7L (6 GROOVE)
PHENOLIC (PLASTIC TYPE) PULLEY
1 - 5.7L,5.9L & 8.0L (7 GROOVE)
PHENOLIC (PLASTIC TYPE) PULLEY
1 - 5.9L DIESEL (8 GROOVE)
STEEL PULLEY
2 - PUMP ASSEMBLY
3 - RESERVOIR
4 - CAP
19 - 40 PUMPDR
PUMP (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
LOW LUBRICANT LEVEL
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the
result of a leak, inadequate lubricant fill or an incor-
rect lubricant level check. Leaks can occur at the
mating surfaces of the gear case, adaptor or exten-
sion housing, or from the front/rear seals. A sus-
pected leak could also be the result of an overfill
condition.
Leaks at the rear of the extension or adapter hous-
ing will be from the housing oil seals. Leaks at com-
ponent mating surfaces will probably be the result of
inadequate sealer, gaps in the sealer, incorrect bolt
tightening or use of a non-recommended sealer.
A leak at the front of the transmission will be from
either the front bearing retainer or retainer seal.
Lubricant may be seen dripping from the clutch
housing after extended operation. If the leak is
severe, it may also contaminate the clutch disc caus-
ing the disc to slip, grab and or chatter.
A correct lubricant level check can only be made
when the vehicle is level. Also allow the lubricant to
settle for a minute or so before checking. These rec-
ommendations will ensure an accurate check and
avoid an underfill or overfill condition. Always check
the lubricant level after any addition of fluid to avoid
an incorrect lubricant level condition.
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by a low lubricant
level, improper or contaminated lubricants. The con-
sequence of using non-recommended lubricants is
noise, excessive wear, internal bind and hard shift-
ing. Substantial lubricant leaks can result in gear,
shift rail, synchro, and bearing damage. If a leak
goes undetected for an extended period, the first indi-
cations of component damage are usually hard shift-
ing and noise.
Shift component damage or damaged clutch pres-
sure plate or disc are additional probable causes of
increased shift effort. Worn/damaged pressure plate
or disc can cause incorrect release. If clutch problem
is advanced, gear clash during shifts can result.
Worn or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash
when shifting into any forward gear. In some new or
rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to
stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most
cases this condition will decline as the rings wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise dur-
ing normal operation. Rotating gears generate a mild
whine that is audible, but generally only at extreme
speeds.
Severe highly audible transmission noise is gener-
ally the initial indicator of a lubricant problem.
Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant will
promote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift rails,
forks and bearings. The overheating caused by a
lubricant problem, can also lead to gear and bearing
damage.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Remove shift boot bezel screws and slide boot
upward on shift lever extension.
(4) Remove shift lever extension from the shift
tower and lever assembly.
(5) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(6) Remove skid plate, if equipped.
(7) Drain lubricant if transmission will be disas-
sembled for service.
(8) Mark propeller shaft/shafts and companion
flange yoke/yokes for installation reference and
remove propeller shaft/shafts.
(9) Disconnect harness from clips on transmission
housing.
(10) Remove transfer case linkage if equipped.
(11) Remove transfer case mounting nuts and
remove transfer case if equipped.
(12) Remove slave cylinder mounting nut and
remove cylinder (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - MOUNTING NUTS
2 - SLAVE CYLINDER
DRMANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 21 - 3
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 (Continued)

INSPECTION
SHIFT LEVER ASSEMBLY
The shift lever assembly is not serviceable. Replace
the lever and shift tower as an assembly if the tower,
lever, lever ball or internal components are worn or
damaged.
SHIFT SHAFT AND FORKS
Inspect the shift fork interlock arms and synchro
sleeve contact surfaces (Fig. 48). Replace any fork
exhibiting wear or damage in these areas. Do not
attempt to salvage shift forks.
Check condition of the shift shaft detent plunger
and spring. The plunger should be smooth and free of
nicks or scores. The plunger spring should be
straight and not collapsed, or distorted. Minor
scratches or nicks on the plunger can be smoothed
with 320/400 grit emery soaked in oil. Replace the
plunger and spring if in doubt about condition. Check
condition of detent plunger bushings. Replace if dam-
aged.
Inspect shift shaft, shift shaft bushing, bearing,
shaft lever and lever bushing that fits over the lever.
Replace shaft if bent, cracked or severely scored.
Minor burrs, nicks or scratches can be smoothed off
with 320/400 grit emery cloth followed by polishing
with crocus cloth. Replace the shift shaft bushing or
bearing if damaged.Replace the shaft lever and bushing if either part
is deformed, or worn. Do not attempt to salvage these
parts as shift fork binding will occur. Replace the roll
pin that secures the lever to the shaft.
FRONT/REAR HOUSINGS AND BEARING
RETAINERS
Inspect the housings carefully. Look for cracks,
stripped threads, scored mating surfaces, damaged
bearing bores or worn dowel pin holes. Minor nicks
on mating surfaces can be dressed off with a fine file
or emery cloth. Damaged threads can be renewed by
either re-tapping or installing Helicoil inserts.
NOTE: The front housing contains the countershaft
front bearing race. The rear housing contains the
countershaft rear bearing race. These components
are NOT serviceable items. The front housing will
have to be replaced if the countershaft bearing race
is loose, worn or damaged. The rear housing will
have to be replaced if the countershaft rear bearing
race is loose, worn or damaged.
Inspect the input shaft bearing retainer. Be sure
the release bearing slide surface of the retainer is in
good condition. Minor nicks on the surface can be
smoothed off with 320/420 grit emery cloth and final
polished with oil coated crocus cloth. Replace the
retainer seal if necessary.
Fig. 48 Shift Forks And Shaft
1 - SHIFT SHAFT
2 - SHAFT LEVER
3 - SHAFT LEVER BUSHING4 - 3-4 SHIFT FORK
5 - 1-2 SHIFT FORK
6 - FIFTH-REVERSE SHIFT FORK
21 - 16 MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500DR
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 (Continued)

Inspect output shaft bearing retainer, the
U-shaped retainer must be flat and free of distortion.
Replace the retainer if the threads are damaged or if
the retainer is bent or cracked.
COUNTERSHAFT BEARINGS AND RACES
The countershaft bearings and races are machine
lapped during manufacture to form matched sets.
The bearings and races should not be interchanged.
NOTE: The bearing races are a permanent press fit
in the housings and are NOT serviceable. If a bear-
ing race becomes damaged, the front or rear hous-
ing must be replaced. A new countershaft bearing
will be supplied with each new housing for service
use.
REVERSE IDLER COMPONENTS
Inspect the idler gear, bearing, shaft, thrust
washer, wave washer and thrust plate. Replace the
bearing if any of the needle bearing rollers are worn,
chipped, cracked, flat-spotted or brinnelled. Also
replace the bearing if the plastic bearing cage is
damaged or distorted.
Replace thrust washer, wave washer or thrust
plate if cracked, chipped or worn. Replace idler gear
if the teeth are chipped, cracked or worn thin.
Replace shaft if worn, scored or the bolt threads are
damaged beyond repair. Replace support segment if
cracked or chipped and replace the idler attaching
bolts if the threads are damaged.
Shift Socket
Inspect the shift socket for wear or damage.
Replace the socket if the roll pin or shift shaft bores
are damaged. Minor nicks in the shift lever ball seat
in the socket can be smoothed down with 400 grit
emery or wet/dry paper. Replace the socket if the ball
seat is worn or cracked. Do not reuse the original
shift socket roll pin. Install anewpin during assem-
bly. The socket roll pin is approximately 33 mm
(1-1/4 in.) long.
Output Shaft And Geartrain
Inspect all gears for worn, cracked, chipped or bro-
ken teeth. Also check condition of the bearing bore in
each gear. The bores should be smooth and free of
surface damage. Discoloration of the gear bores is a
normal occurrence and is not a reason for replace-
ment. Replace gears only when tooth damage has
occurred or if the bores are brinnelled or severely
scored.
Inspect the shaft splines and bearings surfaces.
Minor nicks on the bearing surfaces can be smoothed
with 320/420 grit emery and final polished with cro-
cus cloth. Replace the shaft if the splines are dam-aged or bearing surfaces are deeply scored, worn or
brinnelled.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: Sealers are used at all case joints. Use
Mopar Gasket Maker or equivalent for all case joints
and Mopar silicone sealer or equivalent for the
input shaft bearing retainer.
SYNCHRONIZER
(1) Slide sleeve onto the hub, leaving enough room
to install the spring in the hub and strut in the hub
groove.
(2) Install first spring in the hub, then install a
strut over the spring. Verify spring is seated in the
spring bore in the strut.
(3) Slide sleeve onto the hub far enough to hold
the first strut and spring in place.
(4) Place detent ball in the top of the strut, then
press the ball into place with a small screwdriver.
Work the sleeve over the ball to hold it in place.
(5) Repeat procedure for the remaining springs,
struts and balls. Use tape or rubber bands to tempo-
rarily secure each strut and ball as they are
installed.
(6) Verify the synchro three springs, struts and
detent balls are all in place (Fig. 49).
Fig. 49 SYNCHRONIZER COMPONENTS
1 - SLEEVE
2 - HUB SHOULDER
3 - SPRING (3)
4 - STRUT (3)
5 - DETENT BALL (3)
6 - HUB
DRMANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 21 - 17
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 (Continued)