Transmission install DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Repair Manual
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Page 719 of 2627

INSTALLATION
(1) Position the wiper high/low relay to the proper
receptacle in the Integrated Power Module (IPM)
(Fig. 24).
(2) Align the wiper high/low relay terminals with
the terminal cavities in the IPM receptacle.
(3) Push firmly and evenly on the top of the wiper
high/low relay until the terminals are fully seated in
the terminal cavities in the IPM receptacle.
(4) Reinstall the cover onto the IPM.
(5) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
WIPER MODULE
DESCRIPTION
The wiper motor bracket is secured with two
screws below the wiper motor through two rubber
insulators to the bottom of the cowl plenum panel
beneath the cowl plenum cover/grille panel (Fig. 25).
Two screws secure the top of the wiper module
bracket to the cowl plenum panel through rubber
insulators located on the outboard end of each pivot
bracket. The ends of the wiper pivot shafts that pro-
trude through dedicated openings in the cowl plenum
cover/grille panel to drive the wiper arms and bladesare the only visible components of the wiper module.
The wiper module consists of the following major
components:
²Bracket- The wiper module bracket consists of
a long tubular steel main member that has a die cast
pivot bracket formation near each end where the two
wiper pivots are secured. A stamped steel clamp
secures the center of the tubular member to the die
cast bracket integral to the wiper motor with two
screws.
²Crank Arm- The wiper motor crank arm is a
stamped steel unit with a slotted hole on the driven
end that is secured to the wiper motor output shaft
with a nut, and has a ball stud secured to the drive
end.
²Linkage- Two stamped steel drive links con-
nect the wiper motor crank arm to the wiper pivot
lever arms. The left side drive link has a plastic sock-
et-type bushing on each end. The right side drive
link has a plastic socket-type bushing on one end,
and a plastic sleeve-type bushing on the other end.
The socket-type bushing on one end of each drive
link is snap-fit over the ball stud on the lever arm of
its respective pivot. The right side drive link sleeve-
type bushing end is then fit over the motor crank
arm ball stud, and the other socket-type bushing of
the left side drive link is snap-fit over the exposed
end of the wiper motor crank arm ball stud.
²Motor- The wiper motor features an integral
die cast bracket to which the wiper module bracket is
secured with a stamped steel clamp and two screws
near the top and which has two rubber insulated
mounting ears at the bottom. This die casting also
serves as the wiper motor transmission housing from
which the wiper motor output shaft exits. A nut
secures the wiper motor crank arm to the motor out-
put shaft. The two-speed permanent magnet wiper
motor features an integral transmission, an internal
park switch, and an internal automatic resetting cir-
cuit breaker.
²Pivots- The two front wiper pivots are secured
within the die cast pivot brackets on the outboard
ends of the wiper module main member. The lever
arms that extend from the center of the pivot shafts
each have a ball stud on their end. The upper end of
each pivot shaft where the wiper arms will be fas-
tened each has a serrated driver with a keyway. The
lower ends of the pivot shafts are installed through
lubricated bushings in the pivot brackets and are
secured with snap rings.
The wiper module cannot be adjusted or repaired.
If any component of the module is faulty or damaged,
the entire wiper module unit must be replaced.
Fig. 25 Wiper Module
1 - PIVOT BRACKET (2)
2 - TUBE
3 - CLAMP
4 - PIVOT SHAFT (2)
5 - INSULATOR (4)
6 - LINKAGE BUSHING (4)
7 - DRIVE LINK (2)
8 - PIVOT CRANK ARM (2)
9 - PIGTAIL WIRE CONNECTOR
10 - MOTOR CRANK ARM
11 - WIPER MOTOR
8R - 22 WIPERS/WASHERSDR
WIPER HIGH/LOW RELAY (Continued)
Page 720 of 2627

OPERATION
The wiper module operation is controlled by the
battery current inputs received by the wiper motor
through the wiper on/off and wiper high/low relays.
The wiper motor speed is controlled by current flow
to either the low speed or the high speed set of
brushes. The park switch is a single pole, single
throw, momentary switch within the wiper motor
that is mechanically actuated by the wiper motor
transmission components. The park switch alter-
nately opens and closes the wiper park switch sense
circuit to ground, depending upon the position of the
wipers on the glass. This feature allows the motor to
complete its current wipe cycle after the wiper sys-
tem has been turned Off, and to park the wiper
blades in the lowest portion of the wipe pattern. The
automatic resetting circuit breaker protects the
motor from overloads. The wiper motor crank arm,
the two wiper linkage members, and the two wiper
pivots mechanically convert the rotary output of the
wiper motor to the back and forth wiping motion of
the wiper arms and blades on the glass.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove both wiper arms from the wiper pivots.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/
WIPER ARM - REMOVAL).
(2) Unlatch and open the hood.
(3) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(4) Remove the cowl plenum cover/grille panel
from over the cowl plenum. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/COWL GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect the left headlamp and dash wire
harness connector for the wiper motor from the
motor pigtail wire connector (Fig. 26).(6) Remove the two screws that secure the wiper
module to the top of the cowl plenum panel at the
pivot brackets.
(7) Remove the two screws that secure the wiper
module to the bottom of the cowl plenum panel.
(8) Remove the wiper module from the cowl ple-
num panel as a unit.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the wiper module into the cowl ple-
num as a unit (Fig. 26).
(2) Install the two screws that secure the wiper
module to the top of the cowl plenum panel at the
pivot brackets. Tighten the screw on the driver side,
followed by the screw on the passenger side. Tighten
the screws to 7 N´m (60 in. lbs.).
(3) Install and tighten the screws that secure the
wiper module to the bottom of the cowl plenum
panel. Tighten the screw on the passenger side, fol-
lowed by the screw on the driver side. Tighten the
screws to 7 N´m (60 in. lbs.).
(4) Reconnect the left headlamp and dash wire
harness connector for the wiper motor to the motor
pigtail wire connector.
(5) Reinstall the cowl plenum cover/grille panel
over the cowl plenum. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/COWL GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(6) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(7) Close and latch the hood.
(8) Reinstall both wiper arms onto the wiper piv-
ots. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/
WIPER ARMS - INSTALLATION).
DRWIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 23
WIPER MODULE (Continued)
Page 723 of 2627

(1) Remove the wiper on/off relay from the IPM.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/
WIPER ON/OFF RELAY - REMOVAL).
(2) A relay in the de-energized position should
have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and
no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go
to Step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(3) Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (elec-
tromagnet) should be 75 8 ohms. If OK, go to Step
4. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(4) Connect a battery to terminals 85 and 86.
There should now be continuity between terminals
30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A
and 30. If OK, reinstall the relay and use a DRBIIIt
scan tool to perform further testing. Refer to the
appropriate diagnostic information.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the cover from the Integrated Power
Module (IPM) (Fig. 29).
(3) Remove the wiper on/off relay by grasping it
firmly and pulling it straight out from the receptacle
in the IPM.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the wiper on/off relay to the proper
receptacle in the Integrated Power Module (IPM)
(Fig. 29).
(2) Align the wiper on/off relay terminals with the
terminal cavities in the IPM receptacle.
(3) Push firmly and evenly on the top of the wiper
on/off relay until the terminals are fully seated in the
terminal cavities in the IPM receptacle.
(4) Reinstall the cover onto the IPM.
(5) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
Fig. 29 Integrated Power Module
1 - 15 - CARTRIDGE FUSE
16 - 53 - BLADE FUSE
54 - HEATED MIRROR RELAY
55 - WIPER ON/OFF RELAY
56 - A/C CONDENSER FAN RELAY
57 - ENGINE CONTROL RELAY
58 - FUEL PUMP RELAY
59 - TRANSMISSION RELAY
60 - WIPER HIGH/LOW RELAY
61 - SPARE
62 - FOG LAMP RELAY
63 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL RELAY
64 - A/C CLUTCH RELAY
65 - SPARE
66 - O2 RELAY
67 - SPARE
68 - SPARE
69 - SPARE
70 - SPARE
71 - SPARE
72 - STARTER RELAY
73 - PARK LAMP RELAY
8R - 26 WIPERS/WASHERSDR
WIPER ON/OFF RELAY (Continued)
Page 1232 of 2627

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and MopartGasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 9
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)
Page 1234 of 2627

(12) Disconnect heater hoses from heater core and
remove hose assembly.
(13) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(14) Remove upper radiator hose from engine.
(15) Remove lower radiator hose from engine.
(16) Remove radiator/cooling module assembly.
(17) Disconnect the engine to body ground straps
at the left side of cowl.
(18) Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the
following points:
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
²Crankshaft Position Sensor
(19) Remove coil over plugs.
(20) Release fuel rail pressure.
(21) Remove fuel rail and secure away from
engine.
NOTE: It is not necessary to release the quick con-
nect fitting from the fuel supply line for engine
removal.
(22) Remove the PCV hose.
(23) Remove the breather hoses.
(24) Remove the vacuum hose for the power brake
booster.
(25) Disconnect knock sensors.
(26) Remove engine oil dipstick tube.
(27) Remove intake manifold.
(28) Install engine lifting fixture,special tool#8247,
using original fasteners from the removed intake
manifold, and fuel rail. Torque to factory specifica-
tions.
NOTE: Recheck bolt torque for engine lift plate
before removing engine.
(29) Secure the left and right engine wiring har-
nesses away from engine.
(30) Raise vehicle.
(31) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(32) Disconnect crankshaft postion sensor.
(33) Disconnect the engine block heater power
cable, if equipped.
(34) Disconnect the front propshaft at the front
differential and secure out of way.
NOTE: It is necessary to disconnect the front prop-
shaft for access to the starter and left side exhaust
flange.(35) Remove the starter.
(36) Remove the ground straps from the left and
right side of the block.
(37) Disconnect the right and left exhaust pipes at
the manifolds and from the crossover, and remove
from the vehicle.
NOTE: The exhaust clamps at the manifolds cannot
be reused. New clamps must be used or leaks may
occur.
(38) Remove the structural cover.
(39) Remove torque convertor bolts, and mark
location for reassembly.
(40) Remove transmission bellhousing to engine
bolts.
(41) Remove left and right engine mount thru
bolts.
(42) Lower the vehicle.
(43) Support the transmission with a suitable jack.
(44) Connect a suitable engine hoist to the engine
lift plate.
(45) Remove engine from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the engine in the vehicle.
(2) Install both left and right side engine mounts
onto engine.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Install the transmission bellhousing to engine
mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30ft.
lbs.).
(5) Tighten the engine mount thru bolts.
(6) Install the torque convertor bolts.
(7) Connect the ground straps on the left and right
side of the engine.
(8) Install the starter.
(9) Connect the crankshaft position sensor.
(10) Install the engine block heater power cable, if
equipped.
CAUTION: The structural cover requires a specific
torque sequence. Failure to follow this sequence
may cause severe damage to the cover.
(11) Install the structural cover.
NOTE: New clamps must be used on exhaust man-
ifold flanges. Failure to use new clamps may result
in exhaust leaks.
(12) Install the left and right exhaust pipes.
(13) Connect the left and right oxygen sensors.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) Remove the engine lift plate.
(16) Connect the knock sensors.
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 11
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)
Page 1269 of 2627

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(3) Remove A/C compressor mouning fasteners and
set aside.
(4) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Remove upper radiator hose.
(6) Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted
inside radiator shroud.
(7) Remove radiator shroud attaching fasteners.
NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud
lower right hand corner.
(8)
Remove radiator cooling fan and shroud (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
(10) Remove damper using Special Tools 8513
Insert and 1026 Three Jaw Puller (Fig. 37).
(11) Using Special Tool 8511, remove crankshaft
front seal (Fig. 38).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: To prevent severe damage to the Crank-
shaft, Damper or Special Tool 8512, thoroughlyclean the damper bore and the crankshaft nose
before installing Damper.
(1) Using Special Tool 8348 and 8512, install
crankshaft front seal (Fig. 39).
(2) Install vibration damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTAL-
LATION).
Fig. 37 Crankshaft Damper Removal
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8513 INSERT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 1026
Fig. 39 Crankshaft Front Seal Installation
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8348
3 - SPECIAL TOOL 8512
Fig. 38 Crankshaft Front Seal Removal
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8511
9 - 46 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
Page 1270 of 2627

(3) Install radiator cooling fan and shroud (Refer
to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
INSTALLATION).
(4) Install upper radiator hose.
(5) Install A/C compressor and tighten fasteners to
54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install accessory drive belt refer (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(7) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Connect negative cable to battery.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
(3) Using Special Tool 8506 (Fig. 40), remove the
crankshaft rear oil seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the crankshaft flange with engine oil.
(2) Position the magnetic seal guide Special Tool
8349-2 (Fig. 41) onto the crankshaft rear face. Then
position the crankshaft rear oil seal onto the guide.
Fig. 40 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Removal
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8506
Fig. 41 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Guide Special Tool
8349-2 and Oil
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349-2 GUIDE
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 47
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)
Page 1271 of 2627

(3) Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil
Seal Installer and C-4171 Driver Handle (Fig. 42),
with a hammer, tap the seal into place. Continue to
tap on the driver handle until the seal installer seats
against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
(4) Install the flexplate.
(5) Install the transmission.
FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate onto the crankshaft and
install the bolts hand tight.
(2) Tighten the flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown (Fig. 43).
(3) Install the transmission.
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not use a metal stamp to mark con-
necting rods as damage may result, instead use ink
or a scratch awl.The pistons are made of a high strength aluminum
alloy. The connecting rods are made of forged pow-
dered metal, with a ªfractured capº design. A full
floating piston pin is used to attach the piston to the
connecting rod (Fig. 44).
Fig. 42 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349-1 INSTALLER
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4171 HANDLE
Fig. 43 Flexplate Tightening Sequence
1 - FLEXPLATE
Fig. 44 PISTON AND ROD ASSEMBLY
1 - CONNECTING ROD
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON PIN
4 - OIL SLINGER SLOT
9 - 48 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)
Page 1279 of 2627

(8) Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted
inside radiator shroud.
NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud
lower right hand corner.
(9) Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
(10) Remove damper using Special Tools 8513
Insert and 1026 Three Jaw Puller (Fig. 61).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: To prevent severe damage to the Crank-
shaft, Damper or Special Tool 8512±A, thoroughly
clean the damper bore and the crankshaft nose
before installing Damper.
(1) Align crankshaft damper slot with key in
crankshaft. Slide damper onto crankshaft slightly.
CAUTION: Special Tool 8512±A, is assembled in a
specific sequence. Failure to assemble this tool in
this sequence can result in tool failure and severe
damage to either the tool or the crankshaft.
(2) Assemble Special Tool 8512±A as follows, The
nut is threaded onto the shaft first. Then the roller
bearing is placed onto the threaded rod (The hard-
ened bearing surface of the bearingMUSTface the
nut). Then the hardened washer slides onto the
threaded rod (Fig. 62). Once assembled coat thethreaded rod's threads with MopartNickel Anti-
Seize or equivalent.
(3) Using Special Tool 8512±A, press damper onto
crankshaft (Fig. 63).
(4) Install then tighten crankshaft damper bolt to
175 N´m (130 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 61 CRANKSHAFT DAMPER - REMOVAL
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8513 INSERT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 1026
Fig. 62 PROPER ASSEMBLY METHOD FOR
SPECIAL TOOL 8512±A
1 - BEARING
2 - NUT
3 - THREADED ROD
4 - BEARING HARDENED SURFACE (FACING NUT)
5 - HARDENED WASHER
Fig. 63 Crankshaft Damper Installation
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8512
9 - 56 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
VIBRATION DAMPER (Continued)
Page 1280 of 2627

(5) Install fan blade assembly (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install radiator upper shroud and tighten fas-
teners to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.).
(7) Connect electrical connector for shroud fan.
(8) Install radiator upper hose.
(9) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
(10) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect negative cable to battery.
STRUCTURAL COVER
DESCRIPTION
The structural dust cover is made of die cast alu-
minum and joins the lower half of the transmission
bell housing to the engine bedplate.
OPERATION
The structural cover provides additional power-
train stiffness and reduces noise and vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove the left hand exhaust pipe from
exhaust manifold.
(3) Loosen the right hand exhaust manifold-to-ex-
haust pipe retaining bolts.
(4) Remove the eight bolts retaining structural
cover (Fig. 64) in the sequence shown.
(5) Pivot the exhaust pipe downward and remove
the structural cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as
described in the following steps. Failure to do so
will cause severe damage to the cover.
(1) Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
(2) Install all four bolts retaining the cover-to-en-
gine. DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time.
(3) Install the four cover-to-transmission bolts. Do
NOT tighten at this time.
CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly
against both the engine and the transmission bell
housing during tightening sequence. Failure to do
so may cause damage to the cover.(4) Starting with the two rear cover-to-engine
bolts, tighten bolts (1) (Fig. 65) to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.),
then tighten bolts (2) (Fig. 65) and (3) to 54 N´m ( 40
ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
(5) Install the exhaust pipe on left hand exhaust
manifold.
(6) Tighten exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe
retaining bolts to 20±26 N´m (15±20 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 64 Structural Cover
1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
Fig. 65 Structural Cover
1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 57
VIBRATION DAMPER (Continued)