vin DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Repair Manual

INSTALLATION
(1) Install fan blade assembly to electrically con-
trolled viscous fan drive. Tighten mounting bolts to
24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Position the fan blade/viscous fan drive to the
vehicle as an assembly.
(3) Install the viscous fan drive assembly onto fan
pulley hub shaft (Fig. 4). Tighten mounting nut to
115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install upper fan shroud. Make sure the upper
shroud locks into the tabs on the lower radiator.
(5) Install two upper shroud mounting bolts.
Tighten to 11.8 N´m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) Position the electronically controlled viscous
fan drive wiring into the channel in the upper fan
shroud (Fig. 5). Make sure the wiring is not pinched.
(7) Install the lower fan shroud into position and
verify the two locking tabs have seated.
(8) Install two push pin fasteners to lock lower fan
shroud to the main assembly.
NOTE: Verify that the fan drive electrical wire does
not interfere with fan blade travel when the fan
blade is spun by hand.
(9) Connect the wiring harness connector and
install the harness bracket to the upper radiator
shroud.(10) Install the coolant recovery container (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT RECOVERY
CONTAINER - INSTALLATION).
(11) Connect the battery negative cables.
NOTE:
Viscous Fan Drive Fluid Pump Out Requirement:
After installing a new viscous fan drive, bring the
engine speed up to approximately 2000 rpm and
hold for approximately two minutes. This will
ensure proper fluid distribution within the drive.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE UNLESS
BLOCK HEATER CORD HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED
FROM POWER SOURCE AND SECURED IN PLACE.
THE POWER CORD MUST BE SECURED IN ITS
RETAINING CLIPS AND ROUTED AWAY FROM
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND MOVING PARTS.
An optional engine block heater is available with
all models. The heater is equipped with a power cord.
The cord is attached to an engine compartment com-
ponent with tie-straps. The heater warms the engine
providing easier engine starting and faster warm-up
in low temperatures. The heater is mounted in a core
hole of the engine cylinder block in place of a freeze
plug with the heating element immersed in engine
coolant. The 3.7L/4.7L gas powered engines have the
block heater located to the rear on the right side of
the engine (Fig. 6).
OPERATION
The heater warms the engine coolant providing
easier engine starting and faster warm-up in low
temperatures. Connecting the power cord to a
grounded 110-120 volt AC electrical outlet with a
grounded three wire extension cord provides the elec-
tricity needed to heat the element.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE BLOCK
HEATER
If the unit does not operate, possible causes can be
either the power cord or the heater element. Test the
power cord for continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or
110-volt test light. Test heater element continuity
with an ohmmeter or a 12-volt test light.
CAUTION: To prevent damage, the power cord must
be secured in it's retainer clips and away from any
components that may cause abrasion or damage,
such as linkages, exhaust components, etc.
Fig. 5 Electronically Controlled Viscous Fan Drive
Wiring
1 - UPPER SHROUD
2 - WIRING
3 - GROMMET
7 - 36 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR FAN - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain the coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the power cord from the heater by
unplugging (Fig. 7).
(4) Loosen (but do not completely remove) the
screw at center of block heater (Fig. 7).
(5) Remove the block heater by carefully prying
from side-to-side. Note the direction of the heating
element coil (up or down). The element coil must be
installed correctly to prevent damage.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the block heater hole.
(2) Install the new O-ring seal(s) to heater.
(3) Insert the block heater into cylinder block and
position the element properly.
(4) With the heater fully seated, tighten center
screw to 2 N´m (17 in. lbs.).
(5) Fill the cooling system with the recommended
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(6) Start and warm the engine.
(7) Check the block heater for leaks.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER - 5.9L
DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE UNLESS
BLOCK HEATER CORD HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED
FROM POWER SOURCE AND SECURED IN PLACE.
THE POWER CORD MUST BE SECURED IN ITS
RETAINING CLIPS AND ROUTED AWAY FROM
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND MOVING PARTS.
An optional engine block heater is available on all
models. The heater is equipped with a power cord.
The heater is mounted in a threaded hole of the
engine cylinder block with the heating element
immersed in engine coolant. The cord is attached to
an engine compartment component with tie-straps.
The 5.9L diesel engine has the block heater located
on the right side of the engine below the exhaust
manifold next to the oil cooler (Fig. 8).
Fig. 6 Engine Block Heater - 3.7L/4.7L
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
Fig. 7 Engine Block Heater
1 - FREEZE PLUG HOLE
2 - BLOCK HEATER
3 - SCREW
4 - POWER CORD (120V AC)
5 - HEATING COIL
6 - OIL FILTER
DRENGINE 7 - 37
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐTHERMOSTAT
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
Allgasoline powered modelsare equipped with
On-Board Diagnostics for certain cooling system com-
ponents. Refer to On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) in the
Diagnosis section of this group for additional infor-
mation. If the powertrain control module (PCM)
detects low engine coolant temperature, it will record
a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in the PCM mem-
ory. Do not change a thermostat for lack of heat as
indicated by the instrument panel gauge or by poor
heater performance unless a DTC is present. Refer to
the Diagnosis section of this group for other probable
causes.
The DTC can also be accessed through the
DRBIIItscan tool. Refer to the appropriate Power-
train Diagnostic Procedures information for diagnos-
tic information and operation of the DRBIIItscan
tool.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM HOT
AND PRESSURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
If the thermostat is being replaced, be sure that
the replacement is the specified thermostat for the
vehicle model and engine type.
Factory installed thermostat housings on 5.9L
engine is installed on a gasket with an anti-stick
coating. This will aid in gasket removal and clean-up.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Drain the cooling system until the coolant level
is below the thermostat (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Air Conditioned vehicles: Remove the support
bracket (generator mounting bracket-to-intake mani-
fold) located near the rear of the generator (Fig. 17).
NOTE: On air conditioning equipped vehicles, the
generator must be partially removed.
(4) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL) (Fig. 18).
(5) Remove the generator mounting bolts. Do not
remove any of the wiring at the generator. If
equipped with 4WD, unplug the 4WD indicator lamp
wiring harness (located near rear of generator).
(6) Remove the generator. Position the generator
to gain access for the thermostat gasket removal.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
Fig. 16 Thermostat - 5.7L/5.9L Gas Powered
Engines
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - GASKET
3 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
4 - THERMOSTAT
5 - MACHINED GROOVE
Fig. 17 Generator Support Bracket ± 5.9L Engine
1 - IDLER PULLEY BUSHING
2 - A/C AND/OR GENERATOR MOUNTING BRACKET
3 - IDLER PULLEY
4 - SCREW AND WASHER
7 - 42 ENGINEDR
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT- 5.7L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - THERMOSTAT
The cooling system used with the diesel engine
provides the extra coolant capacity and extra cooling
protection needed for higher GVWR (Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating) and GCWR (Gross Combined Weight
Rating) vehicles.
This system capacity will not effect warm up or
cold weather operating characteristics if the thermo-
stat is operating properly. This is because coolant
will be held in the engine until it reaches the ther-
mostat ªsetº temperature.
Diesel engines, due to their inherent efficiency are
slower to warm up than gasoline powered engines,
and will operate at lower temperatures when the
vehicle is unloaded. Because of this, lower tempera-
ture gauge readings for diesel versus gasoline
engines may, at times be normal.
Typically, complaints of low engine coolant temper-
ature are observed as low heater output when com-
bined with cool or cold outside temperatures.
To help promote faster engine warm-up, the elec-
tric engine block heater must be used with cool or
cold outside temperatures. This will help keep the
engine coolant warm when the vehicle is parked.
A ªCold Weather Coverº is available from the parts
department through the Mopar Accessories product
line. This accessory cover is designed to block airflow
entering the radiator and engine compartment to
promote faster engine warm-up. It attaches to the
front of the vehicle at the grill opening.The cover is
to be used with cool or cold temperatures only.
If used with high outside temperatures, serious
engine damage could result.Refer to the litera-
ture supplied with the cover for additional informa-
tion.
(1) To determine if the thermostat is defective, it
must be removed from the vehicle (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT THERMO-
STAT - REMOVAL).
(2) After the thermostat has been removed, exam-
ine the thermostat and inside of thermostat housing
for contaminants. If contaminants are found, the
thermostat may already be in a ªstuck openº position.
Flush the cooling system before replacing thermostat
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(3) Place the thermostat into a container filled
with water.
(4) Place the container on a hot plate or other suit-
able heating device.
(5) Place a commercially available radiator ther-
mometer into the water.
(6) Apply heat to the water while observing the
thermostat and thermometer.
(7) The thermostat will begin to open at 85.5 -
89.4ÉC. (186 - 193ÉF ). If the valve starts to movebefore this temperature is reached, it is opening too
early. Replace thermostat. The thermostat should be
fully open (valve will stop moving) at 97ÉC (207ÉF). If
the valve is still moving when the water temperature
reaches 97ÉC (207ÉF), it is opening too late. Replace
thermostat. If the valve refuses to move at any time,
replace thermostat.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Drain cooling system until coolant level is
below thermostat (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094).
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter.
(3) Remove radiator hose clamp and hose from
thermostat housing.
(4) Remove the three (3) water outlet-to-cylinder
head bolts and remove the water outlet connector
(Fig. 26).
(5) Clean the mating surfaces of the water outlet
connector and clean the thermostat seat groove at
the top of the thermostat housing (Fig. 26).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect thermostat seal for cuts or nicks.
Replace if damaged.
(2) Install the thermostat into the groove in the
top of the cylinder head (Fig. 26).
(3) Install the thermostat housing and bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 10 N´m (89 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the radiator upper hose and clamp.
(5) Fill the cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7
- COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Connect the battery negative cables.
DRENGINE 7 - 47
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

The DTC can also be accessed through the DRB
scan tool. Refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diag-
nostic Procedures information for diagnostic informa-
tion and operation of the DRB scan tool.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
If the thermostat is being replaced, be sure that
the replacement is the specified thermostat for the
vehicle model and engine type.
A rubber lip-type seal with a metal shoulder is
pressed into the intake manifold beneath the thermo-
stat (Fig. 28).
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Drain cooling system until coolant level is
below thermostat (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the two support rod mounting bolts
and remove support rod (intake manifold-to-genera-
tor mount) (Fig. 29).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094).CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter.
(4) Remove upper radiator hose clamp. Remove
upper radiator hose at thermostat housing.
(5) Disconnect the wiring connectors at both of the
sensors located on thermostat housing.
(6) Remove six thermostat housing mounting bolts,
thermostat housing and thermostat.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean mating areas of intake manifold and
thermostat housing.
(2) Check the condition (for tears or cracks) of the
rubber thermostat seal located in the intake manifold
(Fig. 28). The thermostat should fit snugly into the
rubber seal.
(3) If seal replacement is necessary, coat the outer
(metal) portion of the seal with MopartGasket
Maker. Install the seal into the manifold using Spe-
cial Seal Tool number C-3995-A with handle tool
number C-4171.
(4) Install thermostat into recessed machined
groove on intake manifold (Fig. 28).
(5) Install thermostat housing (Fig. 30).
(6) Install housing-to-intake manifold bolts.
Tighten bolts to 25 N´m (220 in. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: Housing bolts should be tightened
evenly to prevent damage to housing and to pre-
vent leaks.
(7) Connect the wiring to both sensors.
(8) Install the upper radiator hose and hose clamp
to thermostat housing.
Fig. 28 Thermostat Seal - 8.0L V-10 Engine
1 - METAL SEAL SHOULDER
2 - RUBBER LIP SEAL
3 - THERMOSTAT OPENING
Fig. 29 Support Rod - 8.0L V-10 Engine
1 - BOLTS
2 - SUPPORT ROD
DRENGINE 7 - 49
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - 8.0L (Continued)

RADIATOR-3.7L/4.7L/5.7L
DESCRIPTION
The radiator is a aluminum cross-flow design with
horizontal tubes through the radiator core and verti-
cal plastic side tanks (Fig. 38).
This radiator does not contain an internal trans-
mission oil cooler.
OPERATION
The radiator supplies sufficient heat transfer using
the cooling fins interlaced between the horizontal
tubes in the radiator core to cool the engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR
COOLANT FLOW
Use the following procedure to determine if coolant
is flowing through the cooling system.
(1) Idle engine until operating temperature is
reached. If the upper radiator hose is warm to the
touch, the thermostat is opening and coolant is flow-
ing to the radiator.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. USING A RAG TO
COVER THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, OPEN
RADIATOR CAP SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. THIS
WILL ALLOW ANY BUILT-UP PRESSURE TO VENT
TO THE RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. AFTER PRES-
SURE BUILD-UP HAS BEEN RELEASED, REMOVE
CAP FROM FILLER NECK.
(2) Drain a small amount of coolant from the radi-
ator until the ends of the radiator tubes are visible
through the filler neck. Idle the engine at normal
operating temperature. If coolant is flowing past the
exposed tubes, the coolant is circulating.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter and the correct
width.
(3) Remove the hose clamps and hoses from radia-
tor.
(4) Remove the coolant reserve/overflow tank hose
from the radiator filler neck.
(5) Remove the coolant reserve/overflow tank from
the fan shroud (pull straight up). The tank slips into
slots on the fan shroud.
(6) Unclip the power steering hoses from the fan
shroud.
(7) Disconnect the electrical connectors at the
windshield washer reservoir tank and remove the
tank.
(8) Remove the fan shroud mounting bolts and pull
up and out of the radiator tank clips (Fig. 36). Posi-
tion shroud rearward over the fan blades towards
engine.
(9) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines from
the transmission cooler, then plug the transmission
lines and cooler to prevent leakage.
(10) Disconnect the power steering lines from the
power steering cooler, then plug the power steering
lines and cooler to prevent leakage.
Fig. 36 Fan Shroud - Gas Engine
1 - RADIATOR
2 - SCREWS
3 - FAN SHROUD
4 - SLIDE MOUNT
7 - 54 ENGINEDR

(11) Remove the two radiator upper mounting
bolts (Fig. 37).
(12) Lift the radiator straight up and out of the
engine compartment. Take care not to damage cool-
ing fins or tubes on the radiator and oil coolers when
removing.
NOTE: The radiator is equipped with one alignment
dowel on the bottom of the outlet tank and one
retaining bracket on the front side of the inlet tank.
Both features have rubber insulators attached to
them that must be present. The alignment dowel fits
into a hole at the bottom of the front end sheet
metal vertical support post and the support bracket
rests on top of the lower radiator closure tube.
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins are necessary for good heat
transfer. The radiator and oil cooler fins should be
cleaned when an accumulation of debris has
occurred. With the engine cold, apply cold water and
compressed air to the back (engine side) of the radi-
ator to flush the radiator and/or oil coolers of debris.
INSPECTION
Inspect the radiator side tanks for cracks, and bro-
ken or missing fittings. Inspect the joint where the
tanks seam up to the radiator core for signs of leak-
age and/or deteriorating seals.
Inspect radiator core for corroded, bent or missing
cooling fins. Inspect the core for bent or damaged
cooling tubes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the fan shroud over the fan blades
rearward towards engine.
(2) Install the rubber insulators to the lower radi-
ator mounting features (alignment dowel and support
bracket at the lower part of the radiator).
(3) Lower the radiator into position while guiding
the alignment dowel into the vertical post bracket.
Position and seat the lower radiator support bracket
onto the lower radiator closure tube.
(4) Install the upper radiator mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 10 N´m (90 in. lbs.).
(5) Connect the lower radiator hose and install the
clamp in the proper position.
(6) Connect the power steering hoses to the power
steering oil cooler and install the clamps.
(7) Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to the
transmission oil cooler and install the secondary
latches.
(8) Position the fan shroud into the mounting clips
on the radiator tanks and secure with bolts. Tighten
the bolts to 8.5 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(9) Secure the power steering hoses into the clip
on the lower fan shroud.
(10) Install the windshield washer reservoir tank
and connect the hose and electrical connector.
(11) Install coolant reserve/overflow container
hose(s) to radiator filler neck and secure properly
with clamps.
(12) Install coolant reserve/overflow container or
degas container to fan shroud and tighten the bolts
to 8.5 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(13) Connect upper radiator hose and install
clamp.
(14) Install battery negative cable.
(15) Fill cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Operate the engine until it reaches normal
operating temperature. Check cooling system fluid
levels.
Fig. 37 Radiator
1 - SCREW
2 - SCREW
3 - LOWER MOUNT
4 - RADIATOR
5 - DRAINCOCK
6 -LOWER MOUNT
DRENGINE 7 - 55
RADIATOR-3.7L/4.7L/5.7L (Continued)

RADIATOR - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
The radiator is a aluminum cross-flow design with
horizontal tubes through the radiator core and verti-
cal plastic side tanks (Fig. 38).
This radiator does not contain an internal trans-
mission oil cooler.
OPERATION
The radiator supplies sufficient heat transfer using
the cooling fins interlaced between the horizontal
tubes in the radiator core to cool the engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR
COOLANT FLOW
Use the following procedure to determine if coolant
is flowing through the cooling system.
(1) Idle engine until operating temperature is
reached. If the upper radiator hose is warm to the
touch, the thermostat is opening and coolant is flow-
ing to the radiator.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. USING A RAG TO
COVER THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, OPEN
RADIATOR CAP SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. THIS
WILL ALLOW ANY BUILT-UP PRESSURE TO VENT
TO THE RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. AFTER PRES-
SURE BUILD-UP HAS BEEN RELEASED, REMOVE
CAP FROM FILLER NECK.
(2) Drain a small amount of coolant from the radi-
ator until the ends of the radiator tubes are visible
through the filler neck. Idle the engine at normal
operating temperature. If coolant is flowing past the
exposed tubes, the coolant is circulating.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery negative cables.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER6094). ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter.
(3) Remove air box and turbocharger inlet tube.
(4) Remove coolant tank hose, washer bottle hose
and the positive battery cable from the fastening
clips located on top of the radiator.
(5) Remove hose clamps and hoses from radiator.
(6) Remove the power steering cooler mounting
bolts and position the power steering cooler out of
the way.
(7) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the
transmission cooler. The transmission cooler will
remain on the radiator and can be removed as an
assembly.
(8) Disconnect the electronic viscous fan drive elec-
trical connector.
(9) Using a fastener removal tool, remove the two
push pins and the lower shroud assembly and elec-
tronic viscous fan drive wiring from the upper shroud
assembly. Position wiring out of the way. Do not
impact or damage the electronic viscous fan drive or
pull it's wiring.
(10) Using a fastener tool, remove the wiring har-
ness bracket from the upper fan shroud.
(11) Remove the two radiator upper mounting
bolts (Fig. 38).
(12) Lift radiator straight up and out of engine
compartment. The bottom of the radiator is equipped
with two alignment dowels that fit into holes in the
lower radiator support panel. Rubber biscuits (insu-
lators) are installed to these dowels. Take care not to
damage cooling fins or tubes on the radiator and air
conditioning condenser or the electronic viscous fan
connector when removing.
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins are necessary for good heat
transfer. The radiator and oil cooler fins should be
cleaned when an accumulation of debris has
occurred. With the engine cold, apply cold water and
compressed air to the back (engine side) of the radi-
ator to flush the radiator and/or oil coolers of debris.
INSPECTION
Inspect the radiator side tanks for cracks, and bro-
ken or missing fittings. Inspect the joint where the
tanks seam up to the radiator core for signs of leak-
age and/or deteriorating seals.
Inspect radiator core for corroded, bent or missing
cooling fins. Inspect the core for bent or damaged
cooling tubes.
7 - 56 ENGINEDR

loaded pressure relief valve. This valve opens when
system pressure reaches the release range of 97-to-
124 kPa (14-to-18 psi).
A rubber gasket seals the radiator filler neck. This
is done to maintain vacuum during coolant cool-down
and to prevent leakage when system is under pres-
sure.
OPERATION
A vent valve in the center of the cap will remain
shut as long as the cooling system is pressurized. As
the coolant cools, it contracts and creates a vacuum
in the cooling system. This causes the vacuum valve
to open and coolant in the reserve/overflow container
to be drawn through the recovery hose connecting
the filler neck and reserve/overflow container. If the
vacuum valve is stuck shut, or the recovery hose is
kinked, radiator hoses will collapse on cool down.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR
CAP-TO-FILLER NECK SEAL
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be tested by removing overflow hose from
the radiator filler neck tube. Attach the hose of the
pressure tester tool 7700 (or equivalent) to the tube.
It will be necessary to disconnect hose from its
adapter for the filler neck. Pump air into radiator.
The pressure cap upper gasket should relieve at 69
to 124kPa (10 to 18 psi) and hold pressure at a min-
imum of 55 kPa (8 psi).
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS, ºDO NOT OPEN
HOTº, ON RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, ARE A
SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, RADIATOR CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE SYSTEM IS HOT AND/OR
UNDER PRESSURE.
Do not remove the radiator cap at any timeexcept
for the following purposes:
²Check and adjust antifreeze freeze point.
²Refill the system with new antifreeze.
²Conducting service procedures.
²Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT AT LEAST 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
RADIATOR CAP. WITH A RAG, SQUEEZE RADIATOR
UPPER HOSE TO CHECK IF SYSTEM IS UNDER
PRESSURE. PLACE A RAG OVER CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING CAP DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUID TO
ESCAPE THROUGH THE COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW HOSE INTO RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK. SQUEEZE RADIATOR UPPER HOSE TO
DETERMINE WHEN PRESSURE HAS BEEN
RELEASED. WHEN COOLANT AND STEAM STOP
BEING PUSHED INTO TANK AND SYSTEM PRES-
SURE DROPS, REMOVE RADIATOR CAP COM-
PLETELY.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR CAP
Remove the cap from the radiator. Be sure that the
sealing surfaces are clean. Moisten the rubber gasket
with water and install the cap on the pressure tester
7700 or an equivalent (Fig. 41).
Operate the tester pump to bring the pressure to
104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the pressure cap
fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa (14 psi)
replace the cap. Refer to the followingCAUTION.
Fig. 40 Radiator Pressure Cap - Typical
1 - FILLER NECK SEAL
2 - VACUUM VENT VALVE
3 - PRESSURE RATING
4 - PRESSURE VALVE
7 - 58 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

engine warm-up preventing the coolant from flowing
through the radiator (Fig. 44).
OPERATION
OPERATIONÐWATER PUMP
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core,
this coolant absorbs the heat generated when the
engine is running. The pump is driven by the engine
crankshaft via a drive belt.
OPERATION - WATER PUMP BYPASS
When the thermostat is in the closed position the
bypass gallery is not obstructed allowing 100% flow.
When the thermostat is in the open position the pill
partially covers the bypass hole, reducing the amount
of bypass flow. This design allows the coolant to
reach operating temperature quickly when cold,
while adding extra cooling during normal tempera-
ture operation.
REMOVAL
The water pump on 3.7L/4.7L engines is bolted
directly to the engine timing chain case cover.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove fan/viscous fan drive assembly from
water pump (Fig. 45) (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL). Do not attempt to remove fan/viscous
fan drive assembly from vehicle at this time.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with matching number or letter and width.
(4) If the water pump is being replaced, do not
unbolt the fan blade assembly from the thermal vis-
cous fan drive.
Fig. 43 Water Pump and Timing Chain Cover - 4.7L
1 - INTEGRAL WATER PUMP PULLEY
2 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
3 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
4 - HEATER HOSE FITTINGS
5 - WATER PUMP
Fig. 44 Water/Coolant Bypass Flow and Thermostat
1 - FROM HEATER AND DEGAS CONTAINER
2 - FROM RADIATOR
3 - TO WATER PUMP
4- THERMOSTAT
7 - 60 ENGINEDR
WATER PUMP - 3.7L/4.7L (Continued)