vin DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Owner's Guide

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers were overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
NOTE: Bleed procedure should be in this order (1)
Right rear (2) Left rear (3) Right front (4) Left front.(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
(5) Before moving the vehicle verify the pedal is
firm and not mushy.
(6) Top off the brake fluid and install the reservoir
cap.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system.
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKES
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT C-4340
INSTALLER, BRAKE CALIPER DUST BOOT
C-3716-A
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT
NOTE: Install a new copper washers on the banjo
bolt when installing
(1) Install the disc brake caliper (Fig. 26) or (Fig.
27).
CAUTION: Verify brake hose is not twisted or
kinked before tightening fitting bolt.
(2) Install the banjo bolt with new copper washers
to the caliper. Tighten to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.)
(3) Install the caliper slide pin bolts. tighten to 32
N´m (24 ft. lbs.)
(4) Remove the prop rod.
(5) Bleed the base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Install the tire and wheel assembly, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(7) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - REAR
(1) Install caliper to the caliper adapter.
(2) Coat the caliper mounting slide pin bolts with
silicone grease. Then install and tighten the bolts to
15 N´m (11 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the brake hose banjo bolt if removed.
(4) Install the brake hose to the caliper withnew
seal washersand tighten fitting bolt to 27 N´m (245
in. lbs.).CAUTION: Verify brake hose is not twisted or
kinked before tightening fitting bolt.
(5) Remove the prop rod from the vehicle.
(6) Bleed the base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Install the wheel and tire assemblies (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(8) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(9) Verify a firm pedal before moving the vehicle.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
ADAPTER
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the disc brake caliper (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the bolts securing the caliper adapter
to the steering knuckle (Fig. 38)
(5) Remove the caliper adapter.
REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain a small amount of fluid from master cyl-
inder brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.
Fig. 37 Seating Dust Boot
1 - HANDLE
2 - CALIPER
3 - DUST BOOT INSTALLER
Fig. 38 CALIPER ADAPTER
1 - CALIPER ASSEMBLY
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
3 - DISC BRAKE ROTOR
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 21
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

(5) Remove the reservoir from the master cylinder
by pulling upwards.
(6) Remove old grommets from cylinder body (Fig.
42).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use any type of tool to install the
grommets. Tools may cut, or tear the grommets cre-
ating a leak problem after installation. Install the
grommets using finger pressure only.
(1) Lubricate the new grommets with clean brake
fluid and Install new grommets in cylinder body. Use
finger pressure to install and seat grommets.
(2) Start the reservoir in grommets. Then rock the
reservoir back and forth while pressing downward to
seat it into the grommets.
(3) Install the mounting bolt for the reservoir to
the master cylinder.
(4) Reconnect the electrical connector to the fluid
reservoir level switch.
(5) Remove the prop rod from the vehicle.
(6) Fill and bleed base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
BRAKE JUNCTION BLOCK
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the brake lines from the junction block
(Fig. 43).
(2) Remove the junction block mounting bolt and
remove the junction block from the bracket (Fig. 43).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the junction block on the bracket and
install the mounting bolt. Tighten the mounting bolt
to 23 N´m (210 in. lbs.) (Fig. 43).
(2) Install the brake lines into the junction block
and tighten to 19-23 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.) (Fig. 43).
(3) Bleed the base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
A two-piece master cylinder is used on all models.
The cylinder body containing the primary and sec-
ondary pistons is made of aluminum. The removable
fluid reservoir is made of nylon reinforced with glass
fiber. The reservoir stores reserve brake fluid for the
hydraulic brake circuits and has a switch for indicat-
ing low fluid levels. The reservoir is the only service-
able component.
The fluid compartments of the nylon reservoir are
interconnected to permit fluid level equalization.
However, the equalization feature does not affect cir-
cuit separation in the event of a front or rear brake
malfunction. The reservoir compartments will retain
enough fluid to operate the functioning hydraulic cir-
cuit.
Care must be exercised when removing/installing
the master cylinder connecting lines. The threads in
the cylinder fluid ports can be damaged if care is not
exercised. Start all brake line fittings by hand to
avoid cross threading.
Fig. 42 FLUID RESERVOIR
1 - MASTER CYLINDER CAP
2 - FLUID RESERVOIR
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
4 - MASTER CYLINDER
5 - MOUNTING BOLT
6 - GROMMETS
Fig. 43 JUNCTION BLOCK
1 - BRAKE LINES
2 - JUNCTION BLOCK
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEDR
FLUID RESERVOIR (Continued)

HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE
BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER
The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from
the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a
booster problem, first verify the power steering pump
is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
²Check the power steering fluid level.
²Check the brake fluid level.
²Check all power steering hoses and lines for
leaks and restrictions.
²Check power steering pump pressure.
NOISES
The hydraulic booster unit will produce certain
characteristic booster noises. The noises may occur
when the brake pedal is used in a manner not asso-
ciated with normal braking or driving habits.
HISSING
A hissing noise may be noticed when above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied, 40 lbs. or above. The
noise will be more noticeable if the vehicle is not
moving. The noise will increase with the brake pedal
pressure and an increase of system operating temper-
ature.
CLUNK-CHATTER-CLICKING
A clunk-chatter-clicking may be noticed when the
brake pedal is released quickly, after above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied 50-100 lbs..
BOOSTER FUNCTION TEST
With the engine off depress the brake pedal several
times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the
brake pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the
engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push
back against your foot. This indicates the booster is
operating properly.
ACCUMULATOR LEAKDOWN
(1) Start the engine, apply the brakes and turn the
steering wheel from lock to lock. This will ensure the
accumulator is charged. Turn off the engine and let
the vehicle sit for one hour. After one hour thereshould be at least two power assisted brake applica-
tion with the engine off. If the system does not retain
a charge the booster must be replaced.
(2) With the engine off depress the brake pedal
several times to discharge the accumulator. Grasp
the accumulator and see if it wobbles or turns. If it
does the accumulator has lost a gas charge and the
booster must be replaced.
SEAL LEAKAGE
If the booster leaks from any of the seals the
booster assembly must be replaced (Fig. 54).
²INPUT ROD SEAL:Fluid leakage from rear
end of the booster.
²PISTON SEAL:Fluid leakage from vent at
front of booster.
²HOUSING SEAL:Fluid leakage between hous-
ing and housing cover.
²SPOOL VALVE SEAL:Fluid leakage near
spool plug.
²RETURN PORT FITTING SEAL:Fluid leak-
age from port fitting.
Fig. 54 Hydraulic Booster Seals
1 - PUMP
2 - GEAR
3 - INPUT SEAL
4 - HOUSING SEAL
5 - ACCUMULATOR SEAL
6 - PISTON SEAL
7 - SPOOL PLUG SEAL
8 - RETURN
5 - 30 BRAKES - BASEDR

HYDRAULIC BOOSTER DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Slow Brake Pedal Return 1. Excessive seal friction in booster. 1. Replace booster.
2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster.
3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose.
4. Damaged input rod. 4. Replace booster.
Excessive Brake Pedal
Effort.1. Internal or external seal leakage. 1. Replace booster.
2. Faulty steering pump. 2. Replace pump.
Brakes Self Apply 1. Dump valve faulty. 1. Replace booster.
2. Contamination in hydraulic
system.2. Flush hydraulic system and replace
booster.
3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose.
Booster Chatter, Pedal
Vibration1. Slipping pump belt. 1. Replace power steering belt.
2. Low pump fluid level. 2. Fill pump and check for leaks.
Grabbing Brakes 1. Low pump flow. 1. Test and repair/replace pump.
2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING
The hydraulic booster is generally self-bleeding,
this procedure will normally bleed the air from the
booster. Normal driving and operation of the unit will
remove any remaining trapped air.
(1) Fill power steering pump reservoir.
(2) Disconnect fuel shutdown relay and crank the
engine for several seconds, Refer to Fuel System for
relay location and WARNING.
(3) Check fluid level and add if necessary.
(4) Connect fuel shutdown relay and start the
engine.
(5) Turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to
lock twice.
(6) Stop the engine and discharge the accumulator
by depressing the brake pedal 5 times.
(7) Start the engine and turn the steering wheel
slowly from lock to lock twice.
(8) Turn off the engine and check fluid level and
add if necessary.
NOTE: If fluid foaming occurs, wait for foam to dis-
sipate and repeat steps 7 and 8.
REMOVAL
NOTE: If the booster is being replaced because the
power steering fluid is contaminated, flush the
power steering system before replacing the booster.
(1) With engine off depress the brake pedal 5
times to discharge the accumulator.
(2) Remove brake lines from master cylinder.
(3) Remove mounting nuts from the master cylin-
der.
(4) Remove the bracket from the hydraulic booster
lines and master cylinder mounting studs.
(5) Remove the master cylinder.
(6) Remove the return hose and the two pressure
lines from the hydraulic booster (Fig. 55).
(7) Remove the booster push rod clip, washer and
rod remove from the brake pedal.
(8) Remove the mounting nuts from the hydraulic
booster and remove the booster.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 31
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the disc brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the caliper adapter bolts (Fig.
61).(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANI-
CAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER -
REMOVAL)
(5) Remove the retaining clips and rotor assembly
(Fig. 61).
REMOVAL - REAR DUAL WHEELS
(1) Raise and support the vehicle
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the disc brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the caliper adapter bolts.
(5) Remove the rear axle shaft from the housing
on dual rear wheels, (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL &
DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE - 286RBI/AXLE SHAFTS -
REMOVAL).
(6) Remove the hub and rotor assembly (C3500
only) (Fig. 62).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT
(1) On models with all-wheel antilock system
(ABS), check condition of tone wheel on hub/bearing.
If teeth on wheel are damaged, hub/bearing assembly
will have to be replaced (tone wheel is not serviced
separately).
(2) Install the rotor onto the hub/bearing wheel
studs.
(3) Install the caliper adapter assembly,(Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION) and tighten
adapter bolts to:
(4) Install the wheel and tire assembly, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE) and lower the vehicle.
(5) Apply the brakes several times to seat brake
pads. Be sure to obtain firm pedal before moving
vehicle.
INSTALLATION - REAR
(1) Install the rotor to the axleshaft (Fig. 61).
Fig. 60 8 LUG ROTOR ASSEMBLY
1 - SPRING
2 - SHOCK
3 - UPPER AND LOWER SUSPENSION ARMS
4 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
5 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER
6 - ROTOR
Fig. 61 REAR ROTOR
1 - ROTOR
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 62 ROTOR / HUB REMOVAL
5 - 34 BRAKES - BASEDR
ROTORS (Continued)

(12) Rotate rotor to verify that the park brake
shoes are not dragging on the brake drum. If park
brake shoes are dragging, remove rotor and back off
star wheel adjuster one notch and recheck for brake
shoe drag against drum. Continue with the previous
step until brake shoes are not dragging on brake
drum.
(13) Install disc brake caliper on caliper adapter
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install wheel and tire.
(15) Tighten the wheel mounting nuts in the
proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the
specified torque. Then repeat the tightening sequence
to the full specified torque of 180 N´m (135 ft. lbs.)
1500 & 2500 Series or 195 N´m (145 ft. lbs.) 3500
Series.
(16) Lower vehicle.
(17) Apply and release the park brake pedal one
time. This will seat and correctly adjust the park
brake cables.
CAUTION: Before moving vehicle, pump brake
pedal several times to ensure the vehicle has a firm
enough pedal to stop the vehicle.
NOTE: On a new vehicle or after parking brake lin-
ing replacement, it is recommended that the park-
ing brake system be conditioned prior to use. This
is done by making one stop from 25 mph on dry
pavement or concrete using light to moderate force
on the parking brake foot pedal.
(18) Road test the vehicle to ensure proper func-
tion of the vehicle's brake system.
ADJUSTMENT - WITH ADJUSTING TOOL
Adjustment can be made with a standard brake
gauge or with adjusting tool. Adjustment is per-
formed with the complete brake assembly installed
on the backing plate.
(1) Be sure parking brake lever is fully released.
(2) Raise vehicle so rear wheels can be rotated
freely.
(3) Remove plug from each access hole in brake
support plates.
(4) Loosen parking brake cable adjustment nut
until there is slack in front cable.
(5) Insert adjusting tool through support plate
access hole and engage tool in teeth of adjusting
screw star wheel (Fig. 82).
(6) Rotate adjuster screw star wheel (move tool
handle upward) until slight drag can be felt when
wheel is rotated.
(7) Back off adjuster screw star wheel until brake
drag is eliminated.(8) Repeat adjustment at opposite wheel. Be sure
adjustment is equal at both wheels.
(9) Install support plate access hole plugs.
(10) Adjust parking brake cable and lower vehicle.
(11) Depress park brake pedal and make sure park
brakes hold the vehicle staionary.
(12) Release park brake pedal.
PEDAL
REMOVAL
(1) Release the parking brake.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Loosen the cable tensioner nut at the equalizer
to create slack in the front cable.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN
OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(6) Disconnect the brake lamp wire from the
switch on the pedal assembly.
(7) Roll the carpet back, loosen the front cable
grommet from the floorpan and the cable retainer.
(8) Disengage the release rod (Fig. 83) from the
arm on the pedal assembly.
(9) Remove the bolts/nuts from the pedal assembly
and remove the assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the replacement pedal assembly on the
dash and cowl.
Fig. 82 Brake Adjustment
1 - STAR WHEEL
2 - LEVER
3 - BRAKE SHOE WEB
4 - SCREWDRIVER
5 - ADJUSTING TOOL
6 - ADJUSTER SPRING
5 - 42 BRAKES - BASEDR
SHOES (Continued)

Brake fluid apply pressure is modulated according
to wheel speed, degree of slip and rate of decelera-
tion. Sensors at each front wheel convert wheel speed
into electrical signals. These signals are transmitted
to the CAB for processing and determination of
wheel slip and deceleration rate.
The ABS system has three fluid pressure control
channels. The front brakes are controlled separately
and the rear brakes in tandem. A speed sensor input
signal indicating a wheel slip condition activates the
CAB antilock program.
There are Two solenoid valves (Isolation and Dump
valve) which are used in each antilock control chan-
nel. The valves are all located within the HCU valve
body and work in pairs to either increase, hold, or
decrease apply pressure as needed in the individual
control channels.
During an ABS stop the ISO valve is energized
which acts to prevent further pressure build-up to
the calipers. Then the Dump valve dumps off pres-
sure until the wheel unlocks. This will continue until
the wheels quit slipping altogether.STANDARD PROCEDURE - ABS BRAKE
BLEEDING
ABS system bleeding requires conventional bleed-
ing methods plus use of the DRB scan tool. The pro-
cedure involves performing a base brake bleeding,
followed by use of the scan tool to cycle and bleed the
HCU pump and solenoids. A second base brake bleed-
ing procedure is then required to remove any air
remaining in the system.
(1) Perform base brake bleeding,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Connect scan tool to the Data Link Connector.
(3) Select ANTILOCK BRAKES, followed by MIS-
CELLANEOUS, then ABS BRAKES. Follow the
instructions displayed. When scan tool displays TEST
COMPLETE, disconnect scan tool and proceed.
(4) Perform base brake bleeding a second time,(Re-
fer to 5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Top off master cylinder fluid level and verify
proper brake operation before moving vehicle.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
ABS Assembly
Mounting Bolts15 11 Ð
ABS Assembly
CAB Screws3.5 Ð 31
ABS Assembly
Brake Line Fittings19 Ð 170
Wheel Speed Sensors
Front Sensor Bolt21 Ð 190
Wheel Speed Sensors
Bracket To Knuckle6.7 Ð 60
Wheel Speed Sensors
Rear Sensor Stud22.5 Ð 200
Controller
Mounting Screws6Ð53
RWAL Module
Mounting Bolts15 11 Ð
RWAL Valve
Brake Line Fittings19 Ð 170
Rear Wheel Speed
Sensor
Mounting Bolt24 Ð 200
5 - 46 BRAKES - ABSDR
BRAKES - ABS (Continued)

CLUTCH
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
CLUTCH
WARNING.............................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................1
SPECIFICATIONS........................5
CLUTCH DISC
REMOVAL.............................5
INSTALLATION..........................5
CLUTCH HOUSING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................7
REMOVAL.............................9
INSTALLATION..........................9
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL.............................9
INSTALLATION.........................10
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................10REMOVAL.............................11
DISASSEMBLY.........................11
ASSEMBLY............................11
INSTALLATION.........................11
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL.............................11
INSTALLATION.........................12
LINKAGE
REMOVAL.............................12
INSTALLATION.........................12
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION.........................13
OPERATION...........................13
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................13
CLUTCH
WARNING
WARNING: Exercise care when servicing clutch
components. Factory installed clutch discs do not
contain asbestos fibers. Dust and dirt on clutch
parts may contain asbestos fibers from aftermarket
components. Breathing excessive concentrations of
these fibers can cause serious bodily harm. Wear a
respirator during service and never clean clutch
components with compressed air or with a dry
brush. Either clean the components with water
dampened rags or use a vacuum cleaner specifi-
cally designed to remove asbestos fibers and dust.
Do not create dust by sanding a clutch discs.
Replace the disc if the friction material is damaged.
Dispose of all dust and dirt containing asbestos
fibers in sealed bags or containers. This will mini-
mize exposure to yourself and to others. Follow all
recommended safety practices prescribed by the
occupational safety and health administration
(OSHA) and the environmental safety agency (EPA),
for the handling and disposal of products contain-
ing asbestos. Failure to follow these instructions
may result in personal injury or death
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Road test and inspect components to determine a
clutch problem. Road test the vehicle at normalspeeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If clutch chatters,
grabs, slips or does not release properly, remove and
inspect clutch components. If problem is noise or
hard shifting, further diagnosis may be needed to the
transmission and driveline component.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Contamination is a frequent cause of clutch mal-
functions. Oil, water or clutch fluid on the clutch disc
and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter, slip
and grab. Oil contamination indicates a leak at
either the rear main seal or transmission input shaft.
Clutch fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave
cylinder push rod seals. Heat buildup caused by slip-
page between the pressure plate, disc and flywheel
can bake the oil residue onto the components. The
glaze-like residue ranges in color from amber to
black.
Road splash contamination is dirt/water entering
the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing cracks.
Driving through deep water puddles can force water/
road splash into the housing through such openings.
IMPROPER RELEASE OR CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT
Clutch release or engagement problems can be
caused by worn or damage clutch components.
Release problems can cause hard shifting and
noise. Look for leaks at clutch cylinders, connecting
line and loose slave cylinder bolts. Also worn/loose
release fork, pivot stud, clutch disc, pressure plate or
release bearing.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 1