oil level DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Repair Manual

ENGINE BLOCK
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 7).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeatthe measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller
diameter from the larger diameter.
(5) Rotate measuring device 90É and repeat steps
above.
(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each measurement.
(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can
be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round
condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper
always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine
has been in use for a period of time.CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK)
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - CAMSHAFT CORE HOLE PLUG
CAUTION: Do not damage the rear surface of the
camshaft or the core plug sealing surface, when
removing the core plug.
(1) Remove the rear cam bearing core plug.
REMOVAL - CAMSHAFT
(1) Remove the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(3) Drain coolant.
(4) Remove the accessory drive belt.
(5) Remove the generator.
(6) Remove the A/C compressor, and set aside
(7) Remove the radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove intake manifold(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove cylinder head covers(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(10) Remove both left and right cylinder heads(Re-
fer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL) .
(11) Remove the oil pan(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(12) Remove timing case cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(13) Remove the oil pick up tube.
(14) Remove the oil pump(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
Fig. 7 BORE GAUGE-TYPICAL
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 205

INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Position the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position the retainer onto the engine block.
(5) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 15 N´m (132 in. lbs.) using a crisscross pat-
tern, starting with the bolt on the lower right.
(6) Install a new rear seal(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
- INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate or flywheel onto the
crankshaft and install the bolts hand tight.
(2)For automatic transmissions:Tighten the
flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3)For manual transmissions:Tighten the fly-
wheel retaining bolts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the transmission.
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-70 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When
air is fed to the tappets, they lose length, which allows
valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil
pump through which air can be drawn will create the
same tappet action. Check the lubrication system from
the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the
relief valve retainer cap. When tappet noise is due to
aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usu-
ally more than one tappet will be noisy. When oil level
and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at
fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient time to allow all of
the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3)
Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive
leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger
partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tap-
pet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tap-
pet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles
wedged between the plunger and the tappet body. This
will cause the plunger to stick in the down position.
This heavy click will be accompanied by excessive clear-
ance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve
closes. In either case, tappet assembly should be
removed for inspection and cleaning.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
9 - 210 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)

INSPECTION
Check the connecting rod journal for excessive
wear, taper and scoring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bend-
ing.
Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape
before it is fitted into the cylinder bore (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECT-
ING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in
the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks
and/or deterioration.
INSTALLATION
(1) Before installing piston and connecting rod
assemblies into the bore, install the piston rings(Re-
fer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON RINGS
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean
engine oil. Position a ring compressor over the piston
and rings. Tighten ring compressor.Ensure posi-
tion of rings do not change during this opera-
tion.
(3) Position bearing onto connecting rod. Lubricate
bearing surface with clean engine oil.
(4) Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod
Guides into connecting rod bolt threads.
(5) The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore
surface with an raised ªFº or arrow on top of piston
indicating installation position. This mark must be
pointing toward the front of engine on both cylinder
banks.
(6) Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with
engine oil.
(7) Rotate crankshaft until connecting rod journal
is on the center of cylinder bore. Insert rod and pis-
ton into cylinder bore and carefully position connect-
ing rod guides over crankshaft journal.
(8) Tap piston down in cylinder bore using a ham-
mer handle. While at the same time, guide connect-
ing rod into position on rod journal.
CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to
Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always
replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened
or removed.
(9) Lubricate rod bolts and bearing surfaces with
engine oil. Install connecting rod cap and bearing.
Tighten bolts to 21 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) plus a 90É turn.
(10) Install the following components:
²Cylinder head(s). (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLIN-
DER HEAD - INSTALLATION).²Cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) -
INSTALLATION).
²Install the intake manifold.
²Oil pan and gasket/windage tray. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Fill crankcase with proper engine oil to cor-
rect level.
(12) Connect negative cable to battery.
PISTON RINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON RING
FITTING
Before reinstalling used rings or installing new
rings, the ring clearances must be checked.
(1) Wipe the cylinder bore clean.
(2) Insert the ring in the cylinder bore.
NOTE: The ring gap measurement must be made
with the ring positioned at least 12mm (0.50 inch.)
from bottom of cylinder bore.
(3) Using a piston, to ensure that the ring is
squared in the cylinder bore, slide the ring downward
into the cylinder.
(4) Using a feeler gauge check the ring end gap
(Fig. 13). Replace any rings not within specification.
PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE
NOTE: Make sure the piston ring grooves are clean
and free of nicks and burrs.
Fig. 13 Ring
1 - FEELER GAUGE
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 213
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
SERVICE
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY.
ENGINE OIL SPECIFICATION
CAUTION: Do not use non-detergent or straight
mineral oil when adding or changing crankcase
lubricant. Engine failure can result.
API SERVICE GRADE CERTIFIED
Use an engine oil that is API Service Grade Certi-
fied. MOPARtprovides engine oils that conform to
this service grade.
SAE VISCOSITY
An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the vis-
cosity of engine oil. Use only engine oils with multi-
ple viscosities such as 5W-30 in the 5.7L engines.
These are specified with a dual SAE viscosity grade
which indicates the cold-to-hot temperature viscosity
range. Select an engine oil that is best suited to your
particular temperature range and variation.
ENERGY CONSERVING OIL
An Energy Conserving type oil is recommended for
gasoline engines. The designation of ENERGY CON-
SERVING is located on the label of an engine oil con-
tainer.
CONTAINER IDENTIFICATION
Standard engine oil identification notations have
been adopted to aid in the proper selection of engine
oil. The identifying notations are located on the label
of engine oil plastic bottles and the top of engine oil
cans (Fig. 28).
OIL LEVEL INDICATOR (DIPSTICK)
The engine oil level indicator is located at the left
hand of the engine on the 5.7L engines.
CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800
kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhib-
ited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about ten
Fig. 28 API SYMBOL
9 - 222 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)

minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil
level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately five
minutes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase,
remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in Maintenance Schedules(Refer to LUBRI-
CATION & MAINTENANCE/MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION).
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if
damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase. Torque to 34
N´m ( 25 ft. lbs.).
(7) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil described in this sec-
tion.
(8) Install oil fill cap.
(9) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(10) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used
engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle
engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this
section.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-
flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Cor-
poration recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove
it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
(4) When filter separates from cylinder block oil
filter boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil
spill. Remove filter from vehicle.
NOTE: Make sure filter gasket was removed with fil-
ter.
(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 29) hand
tighten filter one half turn, or 180É,do not over
tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
Fig. 29 Oil Filter Sealing Surface - Typical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 223
OIL (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT
REMOVAL............................275
INSTALLATION........................275
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
REMOVAL............................276
INSTALLATION........................276
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER
REMOVAL............................277
INSTALLATION........................277
SOLID LIFTERS/TAPPETS
REMOVAL............................279
CLEANING...........................279
INSPECTION.........................279
INSTALLATION........................280
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION........................281
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEAD GASKET
SELECTION.........................281
REMOVAL............................281
CLEANINGÐPISTON AND CONNECTING
ROD ..............................282
INSPECTION
INSPECTION - PISTONS...............282
INSPECTIONÐCONNECTING ROD.......283
INSTALLATION........................283
PISTON RINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON RING
FITTING............................284
VIBRATION DAMPER
REMOVAL............................285
INSPECTION.........................285
INSTALLATION........................286
FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL............................286
INSTALLATION........................287
REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL............................288
INSTALLATION........................288
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION........................289
OPERATION..........................289
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL
PRESSURE.........................289
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
LEVEL.............................292STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
SERVICE...........................292
OIL COOLER & LINES
CLEANING
CLEANING AND INSPECTION...........293
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL............................293
INSTALLATION........................293
OIL PAN
REMOVAL............................293
CLEANING...........................293
INSPECTION.........................293
INSTALLATION........................293
OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
REMOVAL............................294
CLEANING...........................294
INSPECTION.........................294
INSTALLATION........................294
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
REMOVAL............................294
INSTALLATION........................294
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL............................294
CLEANING...........................295
INSPECTION.........................295
INSTALLATION........................296
INTAKE MANIFOLD
REMOVAL............................297
CLEANING...........................297
INSPECTION.........................297
INSTALLATION........................298
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
REMOVAL............................298
CLEANING...........................298
INSPECTION.........................298
INSTALLATION........................298
VALVE TIMING
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TIMING
VERIFICATION.......................299
GEAR HOUSING
REMOVAL............................299
INSTALLATION........................300
GEAR HOUSING COVER
REMOVAL............................301
INSTALLATION........................301
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 231

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
LUBRICATING OIL
PRESSURE LOW1. Low oil level. 1. (a) Check and fill with clean engine oil.
(b) Check for a severe external oil leak that
could reduce the pressure.
2. Oil viscosity thin, diluted or wrong
specification.2. (a) Verify the correct engine oil is being
used. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
2. (b) Look for reduced viscosity from fuel
dilution.
3. Improperly operating pressure
switch/gauge.3. Verify the pressure switch is functioning
correctly. If not, replace switch/gauge.
4. Relief valve stuck open. 4. Check/replace valve.
6. If cooler was replaced, shipping
plugs may have been left in cooler6. Check/remove shipping plugs.
7. Worn oil pump. 7. Check and replace oil pump.
8. Suction tube loose or seal leaking. 8. Check and replace seal.
9. Loose main bearing cap. 9. Check and install new bearing. Tighten
cap to proper torque.
10. Worn bearings or wrong bearings
installed.10. Inspect and replace connecting rod or
main bearings. Check and replace directed
piston cooling nozzles.
11. Directed piston cooling nozzles
under piston, bad fit into main
carrier.11. Check directed piston cooling nozzles
position.
12. Loose oil rifle plug with saddle-jet
style nozzles12.Tighten oil rifle plug.
13. Loose directed piston cooling
nozzle.13. Tighten directed piston cooling nozzle.
14. Both J-jet and saddle jet style
cooling nozzle installed.14. Install correct style jet.
LUBRICATING OIL
PRESSURE TOO HIGH1. Pressure switch/gauge not
operating properly.1. Verify pressure switch is functioning
correctly. If not, replace switch/gauge.
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 233
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(51) Remove two cylinder head bolts according to
the diagram below and install Tool # 9009. Torque
bolts to 105N´m (77ft. lbs.) (Fig. 3).
(52) Loosen but do not remove engine mount
through bolts and nuts.
(53) Disconnect hood support struts and position
hood out of the way.
(54) Attach a chain with two hooks to the engine
lift brackets.
(55) While keeping engine level, lift straight up
out of the mounts.
(56) Rotate nose of engine upward and pull out of
chassis.
REMOVALÐCRANKCASE BREATHER
(1) Remove the oil fill cap.
(2) Remove the breather cover bolts (Fig. 4).
(3) Remove breather cover.
(4) Disconnect breather tube and lube oil drain
tube from breather.
(5) Remove breather mounting bolts.
(6) Remove breather from cylinder head cover.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - ENGINE
(1) Remove cylinder head bolts according to the
diagram below. Install special Tool 9009. Torque bolts
to 105N´m (77ft. lbs.)
(2) Lower engine into the engine compartment and
install the engine the engine mount through bolts
and nuts.
(3) Tighten the mount through bolts and nuts to
88 N-m (65 ft-lbs) torque.
(4) Remove the engine lifting device (Tool 9009).
(5) Check cylinder head capscrew length and
install into cylinder head.
(6) Torque in 4 steps to:
²Step 1ÐTighten to 70 N´m (52 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Step 2ÐBack off 360É.
²Step 3ÐTighten to 105 N´m (77 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Step 4ÐRotate 90É.
(7) Install rocker housing. Torque to 24 N-m (18 ft-
lbs). Refer to (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLA-
TION).
Fig. 3 ENGINE LIFT BRACKET
1 - Head bolt
2 - Engine Lift Bracket
3 - Head Bolt
Fig. 4 Crankcase Breather Vapor Canister
1 - BREATHER COVER BOLT
2 - BREATHER COVER
3 - BREATHER TUBE
4 - ROCKER COVER
5 - BREATHER TUBE MOUNTING BRACKET
6 - LUBE OIL DRAIN TUBE
7 - O-RING
8 - BREATHER
9- BREATHER MOUNTING BOLT
9 - 242 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

Filter Removal
(1) The housing cover is equipped with spring clips
(Fig. 6) and is hinged with plastic tabs. Unlatch clips
from top of air cleaner housing and tilt housing cover
up for cover removal.
(2) Remove air cleaner element from air cleaner
housing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Before installing new air cleaner element (fil-
ter), clean inside of air cleaner housing.
(2) Position air cleaner cover to tabs on front of air
cleaner housing. Latch spring clips to seal cover to
housing.
CYLINDER HEAD
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder head is constructed of cast iron and is
a one piece cross flow design with four valves per cyl-
inder. The arrangement of two intake and two
exhaust valves per cylinder allows for a centrally
located injector. The cylinder head also includes an
integral intake manifold, an integral thermostat
housing, and a longitudal fuel return rifle, which
exits at the rear of the head. The 24 valve design
also includes integrally cast valve guides and hard-
ened intake and exhaust valve seat inserts.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Drain engine coolant.
(4) Disconnect exhaust pipe from turbocharger
elbow.
(5) Disconnect turbocharger oil drain tube at rub-
ber hose connection. Cap off open ports to prevent
intrusion of dirt or foreign material.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect air inlet temperature/pressure sen-
sor.
(8) Remove air cleaner housing and snorkel from
the vehicle. Cap off turbocharger air inlet to prevent
intrusion of dirt or foreign material.
(9) Disconnect cab heater core supply and return
hoses from the cylinder head and heater pipe.
(10) Disconnect turbocharger oil supply line at the
turbocharger end. Cap off open ports to prevent
intrusion of dirt or foreign material.
(11) Remove exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head
bolts, spacers, heat shield, retention straps, and cab
heater plumbing. Remove exhaust manifold and tur-
bocharger from the vehicle as an assembly.
(12) Remove cooling fan assembly.
(13) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(14) Remove cooling fan support from cylinder
block.
(15) Remove upper generator bolt, loosen lower
generator bolt, and rotate generator away from cylin-
der head.
(16) Disconnect radiator upper hose from the ther-
mostat housing.
(17) Disconnect the Intake Air Temperature/Mani-
fold Air Pressure, and Coolant Temperature sensor
connectors.
(18) Remove the engine harness to cylinder head
attaching bolts and P-clips at front of head.
(19) Remove the throttle linkage cover (Fig. 8).
(20) For automatic equipped vehicles only, remove
the six (6) accelerator pedal position sensor assem-
bly-to-cylinder head bracket bolts (Fig. 9) and secure
the entire assembly out of the way. Disconnect the
APPS connector (Fig. 10).It is not necessary to
disconnect the cables from the throttle control
assembly.
(21) Remove the intake air grid heater wires from
the grid heater.
(22) Remove engine oil level indicator tube attach-
ing bolt at fuel filter housing bracket and inlet air
connection..
(23) Remove the charge air cooler-to-air inlet hous-
ing pipe.
Fig. 7 FILTER MINDERŸ - 5.9L DIESEL
1 - PRESS BUTTON TO RESET
2 - YELLOW DISC
3 - RED ZONE
4 - TO AIR FILTER HOUSING
5 - FILTER MINDER
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 249
AIR CLEANER ELEMENT (Continued)

(9) Install rocker housing and bolts. Tighten to 24
Nm (18 lb. ft.).
(10) Install fuel injector(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL INJECTION/FUEL INJECTOR -
INSTALLATION).
(11) Install injector harness nuts. Tighten to 1.25
Nm (11 lb. in.).
(12) Install cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install wire harness P-clip to cylinder head
behind filter housing 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
(14) Connect the IAT/MAP sensor connector.
(15) Install the fuel filter canister assembly and
torque mounting bolts to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
(16) Connect fuel lift pump, WIF sensor, and fuel
heater.
(17) Remove the engine lift bracket at rear of cyl-
inder head.
CAUTION: Failure to follow procedure will result in
fuel leaks and/or fuel system failure.
(18)Install the fuel rail and high pressure
fuel lines as follows:
(a) Hand tighten fuel rail bolts.
(b) Hand tighten fuel drain line to pressure lim-
iting valve. Hand tighten banjo bolt at fuel filter
housing.
(c) Hand tighten fuel rail-to-cylinder head high
pressure fuel lines.(d) Install fuel line brace bolts-to-intake mani-
fold finger tight.
(e) Hand tighten fuel pump to fuel rail line.
(f) Torque fuel line nuts at cylinder head to 30
Nm ( 22 ft. lbs.).
(g) Torque fuel line nuts at fuel rail to 30 Nm
(22 ft. lbs.)
(h) Using a back up wrench, torque fuel pump to
fuel rail line to 37 Nm (27 ft. lbs.). At injection
pump.
(i) Torque fuel pump to fuel rail line to 37 Nm
(27 ft. lbs.) at fuel rail.
(j) Torque fuel drain banjo bolt at pressure lim-
iting valve and front of fuel filter housing to 24 Nm
(18 ft. lbs.).
(k) Torque fuel line brace bolts to 24 N´m (18 ft.
lbs.).
(l) Torque rail bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
(m) Connect fuel pressure sensor.
(19) Install the engine lift bracket at the rear of
cylinder head. Torque to 77 N´m (57 ft. lbs.).
(20) Reposition number 6 fuel line shield and
torque to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.).
(21) Install the fuel filter to injection pump low
pressure line. Inspect and replace sealing washers if
necessary. Torque banjo bolts to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
(22) Connect fuel return line at back of cylinder
head hand tight.
(23) Connect fuel return line at filter housing hand
tight.
(24) Torque banjo connections at cylinder head and
fuel filter housing to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
(25) Install bracket to rear of filter housing.
Torque to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
(26) Using new gaskets, install the intake grid
heater and air inlet housing. Torque bolts to 24 N´m
(18 ft. lbs.).
(27) Install wire harness P-clip and push on clip to
air inlet housing.
(28) Connect engine oil level indicator tube at fuel
filter housing and at air inlet housing.
(29) Connect the APPS connector.
(30) Install the APPS assembly to the cylinder
head bracket and torque bolts to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
(31) Install the throttle linkage cover.
(32) Install the charge air cooler-to-air inlet hous-
ing duct assembly. Torque all clamps to 11 N´m (100
in. lbs.).
(33) Connect intake grid heater wires.
(34) Secure engine harness to front of cylinder
head with bolt at four locations.
(35) Connect engine coolant temperature sensor
connector.
(36) Connect radiator upper hose to thermostat
housing.
Fig. 20 Rocker Arm and Pedestal Removal
1 - ROCKER ARM
2 - PEDESTAL
9 - 254 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)