oil level DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Manual PDF

(7) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten the bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
(9) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect battery negative cables.
(12) Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
(13) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil. Re-install plug and torque to 50 N´m (44
ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
(5)
Remove flywheel or torque converter drive plate.
(6) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(8) Remove four (4) oil pan rear bolts. Slide a
feeler gauge between the seal retainer and oil pan
gasket to break the seal.(9) Remove the six (6) retainer-to-block bolts (Fig.
73).
(10) Remove the rear seal retainer and gasket
(Fig. 73).
(11) Support the seal retainer and drive out the
crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.
INSTALLATION
(1) If using the old seal retainer, the crankshaft
seal must be replaced.
(2) Inspect oil pan gasket for nickes or cuts. If gas-
ket is damaged, the oil pan must be removed and
gasket must be replaced. Wipe oil pan gasket dry and
apply light coating of RTV.
(3) Using the retainer alignment/seal installation
tool provided in the seal service kit, install the align-
ment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder
block (Fig. 74), using a new gasket. Tighten the six
(6) mounting bolts by hand.
(4) The seal alignment tool is used to align rear
cover properly. Starting with the center two bolts,
tighten the retainer in a circular pattern to 10 N´m
(89 in. lbs.). Remove the alignment tool.
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
Fig. 72 Seal Installation Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 73 Crankshaft Rear Seal Retainer and Gasket
1 - RETAINER
2 - GASKET
3 - BOLT
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 277
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL LEVEL
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
oil foaming and oil pressure loss can result.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable oil level is in the SAFE RANGE on
the engine oil dipstick (Fig. 107).
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately 15 min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Replace dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the SAFE RANGE
area on the dipstick.
(7) Replace dipstick
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
SERVICE
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
NOTE: Change engine oil and filter at intervals
specified in the owner's manual.
(1) Operate the engine until the water tempera-
ture reaches 60ÉC (140ÉF). Shut the engine off.
(2) Use a container that can hold at least 14 liters
(15 quarts) to hold the used oil. Remove the oil drain
plug and drain the used engine oil into the container.
(3) Always check the condition of the used oil. This
can give you an indication of engine problems that
might exist.
²Thin, black oil indicates fuel dilution.
²Milky discoloration indicates coolant dilution.
(4) Clean the area around the oil filter head.
Remove the filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION/OIL FILTER - REMOVAL).
(5) Install new oil filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL FILTER - INSTALLATION).
(6) Clean the drain plug and the sealing surface of
the pan. Check the condition of the threads and seal-
ing surface on the oil pan and drain plug.
(7) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 50
N´m (37 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Use only High-Quality Multi-Viscosity lubricat-
ing oil in the Cummins Turbo Diesel engine. Choose
the correct oil for the operating conditions (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
(9) Fill the engine with the correct grade of new oil
(Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID
CAPACITIES - SPECIFICATIONS).
(10) Start the engine and operate it at idle for sev-
eral minutes. Check for leaks at the filter and drain
plug.
(11) Stop engine. Wait 15 minutes to allow the oil
to drain back to the pan and check the level again.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing of used
engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle's
engine.
1 - ROCKER ARM
2 - ROCKER SHAFT
3 - PEDESTAL
4 - FROM MAIN OIL RIFLE
5 - TO VALVE TRAIN
6 - MAIN OIL RIFLE
7 - FROM MAIN OIL RIFLE8 - TO CAMSHAFT
9 - TO PISTON COOLING NOZZLE
10 - FROM OIL COOLER
11 - CRANKSHAFT MAIN JOURNAL
12 - ROD JOURNAL
13 - TO ROD BEARING
14 - MAIN OIL RIFLE
Fig. 107 Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick)
1 - ADD OIL MARK
2 - O-RING
3 - SAFE RANGE
9 - 292 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)

OIL COOLER & LINES
CLEANING
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the sealing surfaces.
Apply 483 kPa (70 psi) air pressure to the element
to check for leaks. If the element leaks, replace the
element.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
(1) Clean the area around the oil filter head.
Remove the filter from below using a cap-style filter
wrench.
(2) Clean the gasket surface of the filter head. The
filter canister O-Ring seal can stick on the filter
head. Make sure it is removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the oil filter element with clean oil before
installation. Use the same type oil that will be used
in the engine.
(2) Apply a light film of lubricating oil to the seal-
ing surface before installing the filter.
CAUTION: Mechanical over-tightening may distort
the threads or damage the filter element seal.
(3) Install the filter until it contacts the sealing
surface of the oil filter adapter. Tighten filter an
additional
1¤2turn.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Install engine support fixture # 8534.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(5) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(6) Remove flywheel or flexplate.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(8) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).(9) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing surface
is not damaged and tighten to 50 N´m (37 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(10) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(11) Remove oil pan and suction tube.
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and
cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be
required around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and
flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces
for cracks and damage. Replace any defective compo-
nent. Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole
threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for
straightness. Repair any minor imperfections with a
ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil
pan by welding.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear hous-
ing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use
MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equiva-
lent.
(2) Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them
into place. Using a new tube to block gasket, install
and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting
with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the bolts to 24
N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube
brace bolts to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Starting in the center and working outward,
tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the flywheel housing assembly with the
starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 N´m
(57 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect starter motor cables.
(6) Install the flywheel or flexplate. Torque to 137
N´m (101 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
(10) Install battery negative cables.
(11) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(12) Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine,
check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 293

INSPECTION
Discard rusted clamps, broken or worn supports
and attaching parts. Replace a component with orig-
inal equipment parts, or equivalent. This will assure
proper alignment with other parts in the system and
provide acceptable exhaust noise levels.
INSTALLATION - DIESEL
(1) Install the exhaust pipe into the transmission
support and onto the turbocharger flange.
(2) Install the exhaust pipe-to-turbocharger elbow
clamp and tighten to 11 N´m (100 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the extension pipe and clamp to the
exhaust pipe using a new clamp and tighten the
clamp nuts to 54.2 N´m (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Connect the battery negative cables.
(6) Start the engine and inspect for exhaust leaks.
Reair exhaust leaks as necessary.
(7) Check the exhaust system for contact with the
body panels. A minimum of 25.4 mm (1.0 in.) is
required between the exhaust system components
and body/frame parts. Make the necessary adjust-
ments, if needed..
HEAT SHIELDS
DESCRIPTION
There are two types of heat shields used. One is
stamped steel the other is molded foil sheets. The
shields attach to the vehicle around the exhaust sys-
tem to prevent heat from the exhaust system from
entering the passenger area and other areas where
the heat can cause damage to other components.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the nuts or bolts holding the exhaust
heat shield to the floor pan (Fig. 6) (Fig. 7) (Fig. 8),
crossmember or bracket.
(3) Slide the shield out around the exhaust system.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the exhaust heat shield to the floor
pan, crossmember or bracket and install the nuts or
bolts.
(2) Tighten the nuts and bolts 11 N´m (100 in.
lbs.).
(3) Lower the vehicle.
Fig. 5 Exhaust Pipe
1 - Clamp
2 - Support
3 - EXHAUST PIPE
Fig. 6 HEAT SHIELDS - RH - REG CAB
1 - HEAT SHIELD
2 - FASTENER
3 - NUT
4 - HEAT SHIELD
11 - 8 EXHAUST SYSTEMDR
EXHAUST PIPE (Continued)

(d) Insert special fuel line removal tool (Snap-On
number FIH 9055-1 or equivalent) into fuel line
(Fig. 14). Use tool to release locking fingers in end
of line.
(e) With special tool still inserted, pull fuel line
from fuel rail.
(f) After disconnection, locking fingers will
remain within quick-connect fitting at end of fuel
line.
(10) Disconnect quick-connect fitting from fuel sys-
tem component being serviced.
CONNECTING
(1) Inspect quick-connect fitting body and fuel sys-
tem component for damage. Replace as necessary.
(2) Prior to connecting quick-connect fitting to
component being serviced, check condition of fitting
and component. Clean parts with a lint-free cloth.
Lubricate with clean engine oil.
(3) Insert quick-connect fitting into fuel tube or
fuel system component until built-on stop on fuel
tube or component rests against back of fitting.
(4) Continue pushing until a click is felt.
(5) Single-tab type fitting: Push new tab down
until it locks into place in quick-connect fitting.
(6) Verify a locked condition by firmly pulling on
fuel tube and fitting (15-30 lbs.).
(7) Latch Clip Equipped: Install latch clip (snaps
into position).If latch clip will not fit, this indi-
cates fuel line is not properly installed to fuel
rail (or other fuel line). Recheck fuel line con-
nection.
(8) Connect negative cable to battery.
(9) Start engine and check for leaks.
FUEL PUMP
DESCRIPTION
The electric fuel pump is located inside of the fuel
pump module. A 12 volt, permanent magnet, electric
motor powers the fuel pump. The electric fuel pump
is not a separate, serviceable component.
OPERATION
Voltage to operate the electric pump is supplied
through the fuel pump relay.
Fuel is drawn in through a filter at the bottom of
the module and pushed through the electric motor
gearset to the pump outlet.
Check Valve Operation:The bottom section of
the fuel pump module contains a one-way check
valve to prevent fuel flow back into the tank and to
maintain fuel supply line pressure (engine warm)
when pump is not operational. It is also used to keep
the fuel supply line full of gasoline when pump is not
operational. After the vehicle has cooled down, fuel
pressure may drop to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but
liquid gasoline will remain in fuel supply line
between the check valve and fuel injectors.Fuel
pressure that has dropped to 0 psi on a cooled
down vehicle (engine off) is a normal condition.
The electric fuel pump is not a separate, service-
able component.
FUEL PUMP MODULE
DESCRIPTION
The fuel pump module assembly is located on the
top of the fuel tank (Fig. 1). The complete assembly
contains the following components:
²A combination fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator
²A separate fuel pick-up, or inlet filter
²An electric fuel pump
²A lockring to retain pump module to tank
²A soft gasket between tank flange and module
²A fuel gauge sending unit (fuel level sensor)
²Fuel line connection
The fuel gauge sending unit may be serviced sepa-
rately. If the electrical fuel pump, primary inlet filter,
fuel filter or fuel pressure regulator require service,
the fuel pump module must be replaced.
OPERATION
Refer to Fuel Pump, Inlet Filter, Fuel Filter / Fuel
Pressure Regulator and Fuel Gauge Sending Unit.
Fig. 14 FUEL LINE DISCONNECTION USING
SPECIAL TOOL
1 - SPECIAL FUEL LINE TOOL
2 - FUEL LINE
3 - FUEL RAIL
DRFUEL DELIVERY - GAS 14 - 11
QUICK CONNECT FITTING (Continued)

PUMP
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
PUMP
DESCRIPTION.........................39
OPERATION...........................40
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PUMP LEAKAGE . 40
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - POWER
STEERING PUMP - INITIAL OPERATION....40
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUSHING
POWER STEERING SYSTEM............40
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - GAS......................41
REMOVAL - DIESEL...................41
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - GAS..................42
INSTALLATION - DIESEL................42
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................42
FLUID
DESCRIPTION.........................43
STANDARD PROCEDURE - POWER
STEERING FLUID LEVEL CHECKING......43
FLUID COOLER
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................43
HOSES - I.F.S.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - RETURN HOSE - GEAR TO
COOLER............................44
REMOVAL - PRESSURE HOSE...........44
REMOVAL - RETURN HOSE - RESERVOIR
TO COOLER.........................44INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - RETURN HOSE - GEAR TO
COOLER............................44
INSTALLATION - PRESSURE HOSE.......44
INSTALLATION - RETURN HOSE -
RESERVOIR TO COOLER...............44
HOSES - LINK/COIL
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - RETURN HOSE - GEAR TO
COOLER............................45
REMOVAL - PRESSURE HOSE...........45
REMOVAL - RETURN HOSE - RESERVOIR
TO COOLER.........................45
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - RETURN HOSE - GEAR TO
COOLER............................45
INSTALLATION - PRESSURE HOSE.......45
INSTALLATION - RETURN HOSE -
RESERVOIR TO COOLER...............45
POWER STEERING PRESSURE SWITCH
DESCRIPTION.........................46
OPERATION...........................46
REMOVAL - 3.7L & 5.7L..................46
INSTALLATION - 3.7L & 5.7L...............46
PULLEY
REMOVAL.............................47
INSTALLATION.........................47
RESERVOIR
REMOVAL.............................47
INSTALLATION.........................47
PUMP
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: MOPARTATF+4 is to be used in the
power steering system. No other power steering or
automatic transmission fluid is to be used in the
system. Damage may result to the power steering
pump and system if any other fluid is used, and do
not overfill.The pump is connected to the steering gear via the
pressure hose and the return hose. The pump shaft
has a pressed-on pulley that is belt driven by the
crankshaft pulley.
All vehicles are equipped with a power steering
fluid cooler.
NOTE: Power steering pumps are not interchange-
able with pumps installed on other vehicles.
DRPUMP 19 - 39

OPERATION
Hydraulic pressure is provided for the power steer-
ing gear by the belt driven power steering pump (Fig.
1). The power steering pumps are constant flow rate
and displacement, vane-type pumps.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PUMP LEAKAGE
The pump is serviced as an assembly and should
not be disassembled. The plastic pump reservoir and
the reservoir o-rings can be replaced.
Check for leaks in the following areas:
²Pump shaft seal behind the pulley
²Pump to reservoir O-ring
²Reservoir cap
²Pressure and return lines
²Flow control valve fitting
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - POWER STEERING
PUMP - INITIAL OPERATION
WARNING: THE FLUID LEVEL SHOULD BE
CHECKED WITH ENGINE OFF TO PREVENT INJURY
FROM MOVING COMPONENTS.
CAUTION: MOPARTATF+4 is to be used in the
power steering system. No other power steering or
automatic transmission fluid is to be used in the
system. Damage may result to the power steeringpump and system if any other fluid is used, and do
not overfill.
Wipe filler cap clean, then check the fluid level.
The dipstick should indicateCOLDwhen the fluid is
at normal temperature.
(1) Turn steering wheel all the way to the left
(2) Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level
and let the fluid settle for at least two (2) minutes.
(3) Raise the front wheels off the ground.
(4) Slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock 20
times with the engine off while checking the fluid
level.
NOTE: For vehicles with long return lines or oil
coolers turn wheel 40 times.
(5) Start the engine. With the engine idling main-
tain the fluid level.
(6) Lower the front wheels and let the engine idle
for two minutes.
(7) Turn the steering wheel in both direction and
verify power assist and quiet operation of the pump.
If the fluid is extremely foamy or milky looking,
allow the vehicle to stand a few minutes and repeat
the procedure.
CAUTION: Do not run a vehicle with foamy fluid for
an extended period. This may cause pump damage.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUSHING POWER
STEERING SYSTEM
Flushing is required when the power steering/hy-
draulic booster system fluid has become contami-
nated. Contaminated fluid in the steering/booster
system can cause seal deterioration and affect steer-
ing gear/booster spool valve operation.
(1) Raise the front end of the vehicle off the
ground until the wheels are free to turn.
(2) Remove the return line from the pump.
NOTE: If vehicle is equipped with a hydraulic
booster remove both return lines from the pump.
(3) Plug the return line port/ports at the pump.
(4) Position the return line/lines into a large con-
tainer to catch the fluid.
(5) While an assistant is filling the pump reservoir
start the engine.
(6) With the engine running at idle turn the wheel
back and forth.
NOTE: Do not contact or hold the wheel against the
steering stops.
(7) Run a quart of fluid through the system then
stop the engine and install the return line/lines.
Fig. 1 POWER STEERING PUMP
1 - 3.7L & 4.7L (6 GROOVE)
PHENOLIC (PLASTIC TYPE) PULLEY
1 - 5.7L,5.9L & 8.0L (7 GROOVE)
PHENOLIC (PLASTIC TYPE) PULLEY
1 - 5.9L DIESEL (8 GROOVE)
STEEL PULLEY
2 - PUMP ASSEMBLY
3 - RESERVOIR
4 - CAP
19 - 40 PUMPDR
PUMP (Continued)

FLUID
DESCRIPTION
The recommended fluid for the power steering sys-
tem is MopartATF +4.
MopartATF+4, when new is red in color. The
ATF+4 is dyed red so it can be identified from other
fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or anti-
freeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an
indicator of fluid condition, As the vehicle is driven,
the ATF+4 will begin to look darker in color and may
eventually become brown.THIS IS NORMAL.
ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with
age. Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to
indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid
change.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - POWER STEERING
FLUID LEVEL CHECKING
WARNING: FLUID LEVEL SHOULD BE CHECKED
WITH THE ENGINE OFF TO PREVENT PERSONAL
INJURY FROM MOVING PARTS.
CAUTION: MOPARTATF+4 is to be used in the
power steering system. No other power steering or
automatic transmission fluid is to be used in the
system. Damage may result to the power steering
pump and system if any other fluid is used, and do
not overfill.
The power steering fluid level can be viewed on the
dipstick attached to the filler cap. There are two
ranges listed on the dipstick, COLD and HOT. Before
opening power steering system, wipe the reservoir
filler cap free of dirt and debris. Remove the cap and
check the fluid level on its dipstick. When the fluid is
at normal ambient temperature, approximately 21ÉC
to 27ÉC (70ÉF to 80ÉF), the fluid level should read
between the minimum and maximum area of the cold
range. When the fluid is hot, fluid level is allowed to
read up to the highest end of the HOT range. Only
add fluid when the vehicle is cold.
Use only MopartATF+4Do not overfill the
power steering system.
FLUID COOLER
REMOVAL
(1) Drain and siphon the power steering fluid.
(2) Disconnect the return and supply hoses con-
nected to the power steering fluid cooler.
(3) Remove the mounting bracket bolts securing
the fluid cooler to the brace. (Fig. 4)& (Fig. 5)(4) Remove the fluid cooler from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the fluid cooler to the vehicle.
(2) Install the mounting bracket bolts securing the
fluid cooler to the brace (Fig. 4)& (Fig. 5).
(3) Reclamp the return and supply hoses to the
power steering fluid cooler.
(4) Refill the power steering fluid (Refer to 19 -
STEERING/PUMP - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 4 V6 & V8 P/S FLUID COOLER
1 - POWER STEERING FLUID COOLER
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
Fig. 5 V10 & DIESEL P/S FLUID COOLER
1 - RADIATOR
2 - POWER STEERING HOSES
3 - MOUNTING BOLTS
4 - P/S FLUID COOLER
DRPUMP 19 - 43

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
LOW LUBRICANT LEVEL
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the
result of a leak, inadequate lubricant fill or an incor-
rect lubricant level check. Leaks can occur at the
mating surfaces of the gear case, adaptor or exten-
sion housing, or from the front/rear seals. A sus-
pected leak could also be the result of an overfill
condition.
Leaks at the rear of the extension or adapter hous-
ing will be from the housing oil seals. Leaks at com-
ponent mating surfaces will probably be the result of
inadequate sealer, gaps in the sealer, incorrect bolt
tightening or use of a non-recommended sealer.
A leak at the front of the transmission will be from
either the front bearing retainer or retainer seal.
Lubricant may be seen dripping from the clutch
housing after extended operation. If the leak is
severe, it may also contaminate the clutch disc caus-
ing the disc to slip, grab and or chatter.
A correct lubricant level check can only be made
when the vehicle is level. Also allow the lubricant to
settle for a minute or so before checking. These rec-
ommendations will ensure an accurate check and
avoid an underfill or overfill condition. Always check
the lubricant level after any addition of fluid to avoid
an incorrect lubricant level condition.
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by a low lubricant
level, improper or contaminated lubricants. The con-
sequence of using non-recommended lubricants is
noise, excessive wear, internal bind and hard shift-
ing. Substantial lubricant leaks can result in gear,
shift rail, synchro, and bearing damage. If a leak
goes undetected for an extended period, the first indi-
cations of component damage are usually hard shift-
ing and noise.
Shift component damage or damaged clutch pres-
sure plate or disc are additional probable causes of
increased shift effort. Worn/damaged pressure plate
or disc can cause incorrect release. If clutch problem
is advanced, gear clash during shifts can result.
Worn or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash
when shifting into any forward gear. In some new or
rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to
stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most
cases this condition will decline as the rings wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise dur-
ing normal operation. Rotating gears generate a mild
whine that is audible, but generally only at extreme
speeds.
Severe highly audible transmission noise is gener-
ally the initial indicator of a lubricant problem.
Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant will
promote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift rails,
forks and bearings. The overheating caused by a
lubricant problem, can also lead to gear and bearing
damage.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Remove shift boot bezel screws and slide boot
upward on shift lever extension.
(4) Remove shift lever extension from the shift
tower and lever assembly.
(5) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(6) Remove skid plate, if equipped.
(7) Drain lubricant if transmission will be disas-
sembled for service.
(8) Mark propeller shaft/shafts and companion
flange yoke/yokes for installation reference and
remove propeller shaft/shafts.
(9) Disconnect harness from clips on transmission
housing.
(10) Remove transfer case linkage if equipped.
(11) Remove transfer case mounting nuts and
remove transfer case if equipped.
(12) Remove slave cylinder mounting nut and
remove cylinder (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - MOUNTING NUTS
2 - SLAVE CYLINDER
DRMANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 21 - 3
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 (Continued)

The driver selects a particular gear by moving the
shift lever to the desired gear position. This move-
ment moves the internal transmission shift compo-
nents to begin the shift sequence. As the shift lever
moves the selected shift rail, the shift fork attached
to that rail begins to move. The fork is positioned in
a groove in the outer circumference of the synchro-
nizer sleeve. As the shift fork moves the synchronizer
sleeve, the synchronizer begins to speed-up or slow
down the selected gear (depending on whether the
driver is up-shifting or down-shifting). The synchro-
nizer does this by having the synchronizer hub
splined to the mainshaft, or the countershaft in some
cases, and moving the blocker ring into contact with
the gear's friction cone. As the blocker ring and fric-
tion cone come together, the gear speed is brought up
or down to the speed of the synchronizer. As the two
speeds match, the splines on the inside of the syn-
chronizer sleeve become aligned with the teeth on
the blocker ring and the friction cone and eventually
will slide over the teeth, locking the gear to the
mainshaft, or countershaft, through the synchronizer.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
LOW LUBRICANT LEVEL
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the
result of a leak, inadequate lubricant fill or an incor-
rect lubricant level check. A correct lubricant level
check can only be made when the vehicle is level.
Also allow the lubricant to settle for a minute or so
before checking. These recommendations will ensure
an accurate check and avoid an underfill or overfill
condition. Always check the lubricant level after any
addition of fluid to avoid an incorrect lubricant level
condition.
Leaks can occur at the mating surfaces of the gear
case, adaptor or extension housing, or from the front/
rear seals. A suspected leak could also be the result
of an overfill condition. Leaks at the rear of the
extension or adapter housing will be from the hous-
ing oil seals. Leaks at component mating surfaces
will probably be the result of inadequate sealer, gaps
in the sealer, incorrect bolt tightening or use of a
non-recommended sealer. A leak at the front of the
transmission will be from either the front bearing
retainer or retainer seal. Lubricant may be seen drip-
ping from the clutch housing after extended opera-
tion. If the leak is severe, it may also contaminate
the clutch disc causing the disc to slip, grab and or
chatter.
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by a low lubricant
level, improper or contaminated lubricants. The con-
sequence of using non-recommended lubricants isnoise, excessive wear, internal bind and hard shift-
ing. Substantial lubricant leaks can result in gear,
shift rail, synchro, and bearing damage. If a leak
goes undetected for an extended period, the first indi-
cations of component damage are usually hard shift-
ing and noise.
Component damage, incorrect clutch adjustment or
damaged clutch pressure plate or disc are additional
probable causes of increased shift effort. Incorrect
adjustment or a worn/damaged pressure plate or disc
can cause incorrect release. If clutch problem is
advanced, gear clash during shifts can result. Worn
or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash when
shifting into any forward gear. In some new or
rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to
stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most
cases this condition will decline as the rings wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise dur-
ing normal operation. Rotating gears generate a mild
whine that is audible, but generally only at extreme
speeds. Severe highly audible transmission noise is
generally the initial indicator of a lubricant problem.
Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant
will promote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift
rails, forks and bearings. The overheating caused by
a lubricant problem, can also lead to gear breakage.
REMOVAL
(1) Shift transmission into Neutral.
(2) Remove shift boot screws from floorpan and
slide boot upward on the shift lever.
(3) Remove shift lever extension from shift tower
and lever assembly.
(4) Remove shift tower bolts (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2 SHIFT TOWER
1 - SHIFT TOWER
2 - SHIFTER
3 - BOLTS
21 - 44 MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV4500DR
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV4500 (Continued)