jack DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: DODGE, Model Year: 1998, Model line: RAM 1500, Model: DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.GPages: 2627
Page 33 of 2627

CAUTION: Do not crank starter motor on disabled
vehicle for more than 15 seconds, starter will over-
heat and could fail.
(7) Allow battery in disabled vehicle to charge to
at least 12.4 volts (75% charge) before attempting to
start engine. If engine does not start within 15 sec-
onds, stop cranking engine and allow starter to cool
(15 min.), before cranking again.
DISCONNECT CABLE CLAMPS AS FOLLOWS:
²Disconnect BLACK cable clamp from engine
ground on disabled vehicle.
²When using a Booster vehicle, disconnect
BLACK cable clamp from battery negative terminal.
Disconnect RED cable clamp from battery positive
terminal.
²Disconnect RED cable clamp from battery posi-
tive terminal on disabled vehicle.
HOISTING
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HOISTING
Refer to the Owner's Manual for emergency vehicle
lifting procedures.
WARNING: THE HOISTING AND JACK LIFTING
POINTS PROVIDED ARE FOR A COMPLETE VEHI-
CLE. WHEN A CHASSIS OR DRIVETRAIN COMPO-
NENT IS REMOVED FROM A VEHICLE, THE
CENTER OF GRAVITY IS ALTERED MAKING SOME
HOISTING CONDITIONS UNSTABLE. PROPERLY
SUPPORT (Fig. 6) OR SECURE VEHICLE TO HOIST-
ING DEVICE WHEN THESE CONDITIONS EXIST.
FLOOR JACK
When properly positioned, a floor jack can be used
to lift a vehicle (Fig. 7). Support the vehicle in the
raised position with jack stands at the front and rear
ends of the frame rails (Fig. 6).
CAUTION: Do not lift vehicle with a floor jack posi-
tioned under:
²An axle tube.
²A body side sill.
²A steering linkage component.
²A drive shaft.
²The engine or transmission oil pan.
²The fuel tank.
²A front suspension arm.NOTE: Use the correct frame rail lifting locations
only (Fig. 8) and (Fig. 9).
HOIST
A vehicle can be lifted with:
²A single-post, frame-contact hoist.
²A twin-post, chassis hoist.
²A ramp-type, drive-on hoist.
NOTE: When a frame-contact type hoist is used,
verify that the lifting pads are positioned properly
(Fig. 7). The forward lifting pads should be posi-
tioned against the forward flange of the transmis-
sion crossmember brackets at the bottom of the
frame rail (Fig. 8). The real lifting pads should be
wedged between the forward flange of the leaf
spring bracket and the frame rail (Fig. 9). Safety
stands should be placed under the frame rails at
the front and rear ends (Fig. 6).
Fig. 6 Safety Stands
1 - SAFETY STANDS
0 - 20 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCEDR
JUMP STARTING (Continued)
Page 54 of 2627

(8) Remove the hub/bearing from the steering
knuckle (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/HUB /
BEARING - REMOVAL).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The ball joint stud tapers must be
CLEAN and DRY before installing the knuckle.
Clean the stud tapers with mineral spirits to remove
dirt and grease.
NOTE: When installing hub/bearing with ABS
brakes, position the speed sensor opening towards
the front of the vehicle.
(1) Install the hub/bearing to the steering knuckle
and tighten the bolts to 163 N´m (120 ft. lbs.)(LD) or
176 N´m (130 ft. lbs.)(HD 4X2) (Fig. 19).
(2) Install the knuckle onto the upper and lower
ball joints (Fig. 19).
(3) Install the upper and lower ball joint nuts.
Tighten the upper ball joint nut to 54 N´m (40 ft.
lbs.) (on 1500 series only an additional 90É turn is
required) and the lower ball joint nut to 52 N´m (38
ft. lbs.)(on 1500 series only an additional 90É turn is
required)(LD) or 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.)(HD 4X2).
(4) Remove the hydraulic jack from the lower sus-
pension arm.
(5) Install the tie rod end and tighten the nut to
61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the front halfshaft into the hub/bearing
(if equipped).
(7) Install the the halfshaft nut and tighten to 251
N´m (185 ft. lbs.) (if equipped).(8) Install the ABS wheel speed sensor if equipped
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/ELECTRICAL/FRONT
WHEEL SPEED SENSOR - INSTALLATION) and
brake shield, rotor and caliper (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(9) Install the wheel and tire assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(10) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(11) Perform a wheel alignment (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
LOWER BALL JOINT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LOWER BALL
JOINT
NOTE: If the ball joint is equipped with a lubrication
fitting, grease the joint then road test the vehicle
before performing test.
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle. Place safety floor
stands under both lower control arms as far outboard
as possible. Lower the vehicle to allow the stands to
support some or all of the vehicle weight.
(2) Mount a dial indicator solidly to the topside of
the lower control arm and then zero the dial indica-
tor.
(3) Position the indicator plunger against the bot-
tom surface of the steering knuckle.
NOTE: The dial indicator plunger must be perpen-
dicular to the machined surface of the steering
knuckle.
(4) Position a pry bar under the tire assembly. Pry
upwards on the tire assembly.
(5) If the travel exceeds 0.5 mm (0.020 in.), replace
the lower ball joint (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/LOWER BALL JOINT - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(2) Remove the brake caliper and rotor (Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect the tie rod from the steering
knuckle (Refer to 19 - STEERING/LINKAGE/TIE
ROD END - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the steering knuckle (Fig. 20)(Refer to
2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - REMOVAL).
(5) Move the halfshaft to the side and support the
halfshaft out of the way (If Equipped).
Fig. 19 STEERING KNUCKLE
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
3 - LOWER BALL JOINT NUT
DRFRONT - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 19
KNUCKLE (Continued)
Page 69 of 2627

LOWER BALL JOINT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LOWER BALL
JOINT
To properly diagnose the lower ball joint two read-
ings from the dial indicator are necessary, The two
readings must be added together to find a total ball
joint movement as identified in the steps below.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Attach a dial indicator with the indicator rest-
ing on the flat part of the steering knuckle by the
lower ball stud (Fig. 11).
(3) Set the dial indicator to zero.
NOTE: Use care not to damage the upper ball joint
grease seal.
(4) Pry between the knuckle and the axle tube
yoke next to the upper ball joint, Record the reading
on the dial indicatorThis will be the first reading
(Fig. 12).
(5) Set the dial indicator back to zero.
(6) Set up a jackstand and use a long prybar to lift
the knuckle assembly (Fig. 13), pry upwards on the
flat part of the steering knuckle next to the ball joint
stud and nut (Fig. 14) using the jackstand as lever-
age. Record the reading on the dial indicatorThis
will be the second reading.(7) Add the two reading together for a total lower
ball joint movement, If this reading is above 2.29 mm
(0.090 in) then replacement of the lower ball joint is
necessary (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/
LOWER BALL JOINT - REMOVAL).
Fig. 11 DIAL INDICATOR POSITION
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
Fig. 12 FIRST READING
1-PRYBAR
2 - UPPER BALL JOINT
3 - GEASE SEAL
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 13 SECOND READING
1-PRYBAR
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - JACK STAND
2 - 34 FRONT - LINK/COILDR
Page 74 of 2627

SPRING
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle. Position a
hydraulic jack under the axle to support it.
(2) Paint or scribe alignment marks on lower sus-
pension arm cam adjusters and axle bracket for
installation reference.
(3) Remove the upper suspension arm and loosen
lower suspension arm bolts.
(4) Mark and disconnect the front propeller shaft
from the axle 4x4 models.
(5) Disconnect the track bar from the frame rail
bracket.
(6) Disconnect the drag link from pitman arm.
(7) Disconnect the stabilizer bar link and shock
absorber from the axle.
(8) Lower the axle until the spring is free from the
upper mount. Remove the coil spring.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the coil spring on the axle pad.
(2) Raise the axle into position until the spring
seats in the upper mount.
(3) Connect the stabilizer bar links and shock
absorbers to the axle bracket. Connect the track bar
to the frame rail bracket.
(4) Install the upper suspension arm.
(5) Install the front propeller shaft to the axle 4x4
model.
(6) Install drag link to pitman arm and tighten
nut to specifications. Install new cotter pin.
(7) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(8) Tighten the following suspension components
to specifications:
²Link to stabilizer bar nut.
²Lower shock bolt.
²Track bar bolt at axle shaft tube bracket.
²Upper suspension arm nut at axle bracket.
²Upper suspension nut at frame bracket.
²Align lower suspension arm reference marks and
tighten cam nut.
²Lower suspension nut at frame bracket.
STABILIZER BAR
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Hold the stabilizer link shafts with a wrench
and remove the link nuts at the stabilizer bar.
(3) Remove the retainers and grommets from the
stabilizer bar links.
(4) Remove the stabilizer bar link nuts from the
axle brackets.
Fig. 23 Shock Absorber and Bracket
1 - GROMMET
2 - RETAINER
3 - BRACKET
4 - RETAINER
5 - SHOCK
6 - GROMMET
Fig. 24 Shock Absorber Axle Mount
1 - SHOCK
2 - SPRING
3 - FLAG NUT
4 - SHOCK BOLT
DRFRONT - LINK/COIL 2 - 39
SHOCK (Continued)
Page 101 of 2627

HALF SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION.............................20
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................20
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................21
SPECIFICATIONS.......................21
SPECIAL TOOLS.......................21CV JOINT-OUTER
REMOVAL.............................22
INSTALLATION.........................23
CV JOINT-INNER
REMOVAL.............................25
INSTALLATION.........................25
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION
CAUTION:: Never grasp half shaft assembly by the
boots. This may cause the boot to pucker or crease
and reduce the service life of the boot.
Avoid over angulating or stroking the C/V joints
when handling the half shaft.
Half shafts exposed to battery acid, transmission
fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid or gasoline may
cause the boots to deteriorate. Failure to heed cau-
tion may result in damage.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check inboard and outboard C/V joint for leaking
grease. This is a sign of boot or boot clamp damage.
NOISE/VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise or vibration in turns could be
caused by a damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint
seal boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the
loss/contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint. Noise could also
be caused by another component of the vehicle com-
ing in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a damaged or worn C/V joint. A
torn boot or loose/missing clamp on the inner/outer
joint which has allowed the grease to be lost will
damage the C/V joint.
SHUDDER/VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This could be a worn/damaged inner tripod joint or
a sticking tripod joint. Improper wheel alignment
may also cause a shudder or vibration.
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of out of balance
front tires or tire/wheel runout. Foreign material
(mud, etc.) packed on the backside of the wheel(s)
will also cause a vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on
hoist.
(2) Remove half shaft hub nut.
(3) Remove brake caliper and rotor.
(4) Position hydraulic jack under lower suspension
arm and raise jack to unload rebound bumper.
(5) Remove lower shock absorber bolt.
(6) Remove upper ball joint nut and seperate ball
with Remover 8677 (Fig. 1).
(7) Disengage inner C/V joint from axle shaft with
two pry bars between the C/V housing and axle hous-
ing.
Fig. 1 UPPER BALL JOINT SEPARATION
1 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
2 - REMOVER
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - 20 HALF SHAFTDR
Page 112 of 2627

REMOVAL
(1) With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on
hoist.
(2) Remove axle half shafts.
(3) Remove exhaust crossover.
(4) Mark front propeller shaft and remove shaft.
(5) Remove suspension crossmember mounting
bolts (Fig. 1) and remove crossmember.
(6) Support axle with hydraulic jack.
(7) Remove axle housing pinion mounting bolts
(Fig. 2).
(8) Remove axle shaft tube mounting bolts (Fig. 3).
(9) Remove differential housing mounting bolts
(Fig. 4).
(10) Lower axle from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Raise axle into position.
(2) Install axle mounting bolts and tighten nuts to
95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install suspension crossmember and bolts.
Tighten crossmember nuts to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install front propeller shaft with reference
marks aligned (Fig. 5) and tighten bolts to 115 N´m
(85 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install exhaust crossover.
(6) Install axle half shafts.
Fig. 1 SUSPENSION CROSSMEMBER
1 - PINION FLANGE
2 - AXLE TUBE MOUNTING BRACKET
3 - CROSSMEMBER BOLTS
Fig. 2 HOUSING PINION MOUNTING BOLTS
1 - MOUNTING BOLTS
2 - PINION FLANGE
Fig. 3 AXLE TUBE MOUNT
1 - MOUNTING
2 - BOLTS
DRFRONT AXLE - C205F 3 - 31
FRONT AXLE - C205F (Continued)
Page 306 of 2627

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Partial engagement of clutch disc.
One side of disc is worn and the
other side is glazed and lightly
worn.1. Clutch pressure plate position
incorrect.1. Replace clutch disc and cover.
2. Clutch cover, spring, or release
fingers bent or distorted.2. Replace clutch disc and cover.
3. Clutch disc damaged or
distorted.2. Replace clutch disc.
4. Clutch misalignment. 4. Check alignment and runout of
flywheel, disc, pressure plate, andùr
clutch housing. Correct as
necessary.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Slave Cylinder Nuts 23 17 -
Clutch Master Cylinder
Nuts28 21 -
Pressure Plate Bolts - V6
&V850 37 -
Pressure Plate Bolts - V10 30 22.5 -
Pressure Plate Bolts -
Diesel30 22.5 -
Release Bearing Pivot 23 17 -
Flywheel Bolts 95 70 -
CLUTCH DISC
REMOVAL
(1) Support engine with wood block and adjustable
jack stand, to prevent strain on engine mounts.
(2) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
(3) If pressure plate will be reused, mark the posi-
tion on flywheel with paint or scriber (Fig. 1). Also
note location marks on the pressure next to the bolt
holes. The mark will be a L or a circle with an X in
it.
(4) Insert clutch alignment tool through clutch disc
and into pilot bushing, to hold disc in place while
removing bolts.
(5) Loosen pressure plate bolts evenly, a few
threads at a time and in a diagonal pattern to pre-
vent warping the plate.
(6) Remove bolts completely and remove pressure
plate, disc and alignment tool.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check runout and free operation of new clutch
disc.
(2) Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing with a NLGI
- 2 rated grease.
(3) Install clutch alignment tool in clutch disc hub
with the raised side of hub is facing away from the
flywheel.
NOTE: Flywheel side is imprinted on the disc face.
(4) Install alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi-
tion disc on the flywheel.
(5) Position pressure plate over disc and onto the
flywheel (Fig. 2).
(6) Align and hold pressure plate in position and
install bolts finger tight.
(7) Tighten bolts evenly and a few threads at a
time in a diagonal pattern.
CAUTION: Bolts must be tightened evenly and to
specified torque to avoid warping pressure plate
cover.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 5
CLUTCH (Continued)
Page 353 of 2627

OPERATION
The heater warms the engine coolant providing
easier engine starting and faster warm-up in low
temperatures. Connecting the power cord to a
grounded 110-120 volt AC electrical outlet with a
grounded three wire extension cord provides the elec-
tricity needed to heat the element.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(3) Unscrew the power cord retaining cap and dis-
connect cord from heater element.
(4) Using a suitable size socket, loosen and remove
the block heater element (Fig. 9).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the threads in the cylinder
block.
(2) Coat heater element threads with Mopart
Thread Sealer with Teflon.
(3) Screw block heater into cylinder block and
tighten to 55 N´m (41 ft. lbs.).
(4) Connect block heater cord and tighten retain-
ing cap.
(5) Fill cooling system with recommended coolant
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(6) Start and warm the engine.
(7) Check block heater for leaks.
ENGINE COOLANT
TEMPERATURE SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is
used to sense engine coolant temperature. The sensor
protrudes into an engine water jacket.
The ECT sensor is a two-wire Negative Thermal
Coefficient (NTC) sensor. Meaning, as engine coolant
temperature increases, resistance (voltage) in the
sensor decreases. As temperature decreases, resis-
tance (voltage) in the sensor increases.
OPERATION
At key-on, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
sends out a regulated 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor.
The PCM then monitors the signal as it passes
through the ECT sensor to the sensor ground (sensor
return).
When the engine is cold, the PCM will operate in
Open Loop cycle. It will demand slightly richer air-
fuel mixtures and higher idle speeds. This is done
until normal operating temperatures are reached.
The PCM uses inputs from the ECT sensor for the
following calculations:
²for engine coolant temperature gauge operation
through CCD or PCI (J1850) communications
²Injector pulse-width
²Spark-advance curves
²ASD relay shut-down times
²Idle Air Control (IAC) motor key-on steps
²Pulse-width prime-shot during cranking
²O2 sensor closed loop times
²Purge solenoid on/off times
²EGR solenoid on/off times (if equipped)
²Leak Detection Pump operation (if equipped)
²Radiator fan relay on/off times (if equipped)
²Target idle speed
Fig. 8 Engine Block Heater ± 5.9L Diesel Engine
1 - BLOCK HEATER
Fig. 9 Block Heater - 5.9L Diesel Engine
1 - BLOCK HEATER
7 - 38 ENGINEDR
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)
Page 354 of 2627

REMOVAL
3.7L V-6
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor on
the 3.7L engine is installed into a water jacket at
front of intake manifold near rear of generator (Fig.
10).
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. COOLING SYSTEM
MUST BE PARTIALLY DRAINED BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.
(1) Partially drain the cooling system.
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
sensor.
(3) Remove the sensor from the intake manifold.
4.7L V-8
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. COOLING SYSTEM
MUST BE PARTIALLY DRAINED BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT)
SENSOR.
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor on
the 4.7L V-8 engine is located near the front of the
intake manifold (Fig. 11).(1) Partially drain the cooling system. Refer to 7,
COOLING.
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
ECT sensor.
(3) Remove the sensor from the intake manifold.
5.7L V-8
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor on
the 5.7L engine is located under the air conditioning
compressor (Fig. 12). It is installed into a water
jacket at the front of the cylinder block (Fig. 13).
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. COOLING SYSTEM
MUST BE PARTIALLY DRAINED BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.
(1) Partially drain the cooling system.
(2) Remove fan belt. Refer to Accessory Drive in
Cooling section.
(3) Carefully unbolt air conditioning compressor
from front of engine. Do not disconnect any A/C hoses
from compressor. Temporarily support compressor to
gain access to ECT sensor. Refer to Heating and Air
Conditioning section for information.
(4) Disconnect electrical connector from sensor
(Fig. 13).
(5) Remove sensor from cylinder block.
Fig. 10 MAP SENSOR / ECT SENSOR - 3.7L V-6
1 - MOUNTING SCREWS
2 - MAP SENSOR
3 - ECT SENSOR
4 - FRONT OF INTAKE MANIFOLD
Fig. 11 ECT SENSOR - 4.7L V-8
1 - ECT SENSOR
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS (2)
3 - MAP SENSOR
4 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
DRENGINE 7 - 39
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR (Continued)
Page 374 of 2627

The pressure cap may test properly while posi-
tioned on tool 7700 (or equivalent). It may not hold
pressure or vacuum when installed on the radiator. If
so, inspect the radiator filler neck and radiator cap's
top gasket for damage. Also inspect for dirt or distor-
tion that may prevent the cap from sealing properly.
CAUTION: Radiator pressure testing tools are very
sensitive to small air leaks which will not cause
cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does
not have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap
needs replacement.
CLEANING
Use only a mild soap and water to clean the radi-
ator cap. Using any type of solvent may cause dam-
age to the seal in the radiator cap.
INSPECTION
Hold cap at eye level, right side up. The vent valve
(Fig. 42) at bottom of cap should closed. A slight
downward pull on the vent valve should open it. If
the rubber gasket has swollen and prevents vent
valve from opening, replace cap.
Hold cap at eye level, upside down. If any light can
be seen between vent valve and rubber gasket,
replace cap. A replacement cap must be the typedesigned for a coolant reserve/overflow system with a
completely sealed diaphragm spring and a rubber
gasket. This gasket is used to seal to radiator filler
neck top surface. Use of proper cap will allow coolant
return to radiator.
WATER PUMP - 3.7L/4.7L
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - WATER PUMP
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core.
The pump is driven from the engine crankshaft by a
single serpentine drive belt.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in bearings pressed into the
housing. The housing has two small holes to allow
seepage to escape. The water pump seals are lubri-
cated by the antifreeze in the coolant mixture. No
additional lubrication is necessary.
Both heater hoses are connected to fittings on the
timing chain front cover. The water pump is also
mounted directly to the timing chain cover and is
equipped with a non serviceable integral pulley (Fig.
43).
DESCRIPTION - WATER PUMP BYPASS
The 3.7L and 4.7L engine uses an internal water/
coolant bypass system. The design uses galleries in
the timing chain cover to circulate coolant during
Fig. 41 Pressure Testing Radiator Cap - Typical
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
Fig. 42 Radiator Pressure Cap
1 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
2 - RUBBER SEALS
3 - VENT VALVE
4 - RADIATOR TANK
5 - FILLER NECK
6 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
7 - MAIN SPRING
8 - GASKET RETAINER
DRENGINE 7 - 59
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)