tires DODGE RAM 2001 Service User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: DODGE, Model Year: 2001, Model line: RAM, Model: DODGE RAM 2001Pages: 2889, PDF Size: 68.07 MB
Page 56 of 2889

(3) Position the indicator plunger against the
upper ball stud boss of the steering knuckle.
(4) Grasp the top of the tire and apply force in and
out. Look for movement at the ball joint between the
upper suspension arm and steering knuckle.
(5) If lateral movement is greater than 0.8 mm
(0.030 in.), replace the suspension arm.
UPPER CONTROL ARM
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Support lower suspension arm at outboard end
with jack stand.(4) Remove upper ball joint cotter pin and nut.
(5) Separate ball joint from knuckle with remover
MB-990635.
(6) Remove pivot bar bolts from upper suspension
arm bracket and remove arm from vehicle (Fig. 7).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the upper suspension arm on the
bracket and install the pivot bar bolts. Tighten to
169 N´m (125 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install the ball joint in the knuckle. Install the
nut and tighten to 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) and replace-
ment the cotter pin.
(3) Remove the jack from the lower suspension
arm.
(4) Install the tire and wheel assembly, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(5) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(6) Align the front suspension, (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
Fig. 6 STABILIZER BAR
1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - GROMMET
3 - GROMMET
4 - LINK
Fig. 7 Upper Suspension Arm
1 - PIVOT BAR
2 - UPPER SUSPENSION ARM
3 - SUSPENSION ARM FRAME MOUNT
4 - ADJUSTMENT SLOTS
BR/BEFRONT - 2WD 2 - 13
UPPER BALL JOINT (Continued)
Page 62 of 2889

(11) Install a new cotter pin in the hub nut.
Tighten the nut as needed to align the cotter pin hole
in the shaft with the opening in nut.
(12) Install the brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the sensor wire to the steering knuckle
and frame and if equipped. Connect the wheel speed
sensor wire under the hood.
(14) Install the wheel and tire assemblies, (Refer
to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(15) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(16) Apply the brakes several times to seat the
brake shoes and caliper piston. Do not move the vehi-
cle until a firm brake pedal is obtained.
INSTALLATION - 1500
(1) Apply a liberal quantity of anti-seize compound
to splines of the front drive shaft.
(2) Insert the bolts (Fig. 13) through back side of
the steering knuckle.
(3) Position the brake shield (Fig. 14) on bolts just
installed in the knuckle.
(4) Align the hub with the drive shaft and start
the shaft into the hub splines.
(5) Align the bolt holes in the hub bearing flange
with bolts installed in the knuckle. Then thread bolts
into the bearing flange.
(6) Tighten the hub bearing bolts to 166 N´m (122
ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the washer and axle hub nut and
tighten to 245 N´m (180 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 12 Brake Shield With Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - HUB BEARING
3 - SHIELD
Fig. 13 Hub Bearing Mounting Bolts
1 - KNUCKLE
2 - AXLE SPLINE
3 - HUB BEARING BOLTS
Fig. 14 Brake Shield
1 - KNUCKLE
2 - BRAKE SHIELD
3 - HUB BEARING BOLTS
BR/BEFRONT - 4WD 2 - 19
HUB / BEARING (Continued)
Page 63 of 2889

(8) Install a new cotter pin in hub nut. Tighten the
nut as needed to align cotter pin hole in shaft with
the opening in the nut.
(9) Install the rotor, brake caliper with adapter,
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the ABS wheel speed sensor if
equipped, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/ELECTRICAL/
FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Install the wheel and tire assemblies, (Refer
to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(12) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(13) Apply the brakes several times to seat the
brake shoes and the caliper piston. Do not move the
vehicle until a firm brake pedal is obtained.
KNUCKLE
DESCRIPTION
The knuckles are a single casting with legs
machined for the upper and lower ball joints. The
knuckles also has machined mounting locations for
the front brake calipers adapters and hub bearing
assembly.
OPERATION
The steering knuckles pivots between the upper
and lower ball joints. The steering linkage is
attached to the knuckles controls vehicle steering.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove hub bearing and axle shaft.
(2) Remove tie-rod or drag link end from the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(3) Remove the ABS sensor wire and bracket from
knuckle.
(4) Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud
nut. Remove the upper and lower ball stud nuts.
(5) Strike the steering knuckle with a brass ham-
mer to loosen. Remove knuckle from axle tube yokes.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove hub bearing and axle shaft.
(2) Remove tie-rod or drag link end from the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(3) Remove the ABS sensor wire and bracket from
knuckle. Refer to Brakes, for proper procedures.
(4) Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud
nut. Remove the upper and lower ball stud nuts.
(5) Strike the steering knuckle with a brass ham-
mer to loosen.
(6) Remove knuckle from axle tube yokes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the steering knuckle on the ball studs.
(2) Install and tighten lower ball stud nut to 108
N´m (80 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(3) Install and tighten upper ball stud nut to 101
N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(4) Install the hub bearing and axle shaft.
(5) Install tie-rod or drag link end onto the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(6) Install the ABS sensor wire and bracket to the
knuckle. Refer to Brakes, for proper procedures.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the steering knuckle on the ball studs.
(2) Install and tighten lower ball stud nut to 47
N´m (35 ft. lbs.) torque. Do not install cotter pin at
this time.
(3) Install and tighten upper ball stud nut to 94
N´m (70 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(4) Retorque lower ball stud nut to 190±217 N´m
(140±160 ft. lbs.) torque. Advance nut to next slot to
line up hole and install new cotter pin.
(5) Install the hub bearing and axle shaft.
(6) Install tie-rod or drag link end onto the steer-
ing knuckle arm.
(7) Install the ABS sensor wire and bracket to the
knuckle. Refer to Brakes, for proper procedure.
LOWER CONTROL ARM
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Paint or scribe alignment marks on the cam
adjusters and suspension arm for installation refer-
ence (Fig. 15).
(3) Remove the lower suspension arm nut, cam
and cam bolt from the axle.
(4) Remove the nut and bolt from the frame rail
bracket and remove the lower suspension arm (Fig.
22).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower suspension arm at the axle
bracket and frame rail bracket.
(2) Install the rear bolt and finger tighten the nut.
(3) Install the cam bolt, cam and nut in the axle
and align the reference marks.
(4) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(5) Tighten cam nut at the axle bracket to 190
N´m (140 ft. lbs.). Tighten rear nut at the frame
bracket to 190 N´m (140 ft. lbs.).
2 - 20 FRONT - 4WDBR/BE
HUB / BEARING (Continued)
Page 72 of 2889

(2) Remove the nuts and spring clamp bolts that
attach the spring to the axle (Fig. 2) and (Fig. 3)and
(Fig. 4).
(3) Remove the nuts and bolts from the spring
front and rear shackle eyes.Note: To remove front
eye bolt on left side spring fuel tank must be
removed, (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY/FUEL TANK - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the spring from the vehicle.
(5) Remove the shackle from the spring.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install shackle on rear spring eye and install
bolt and nut.
(2) Position spring on axle shaft tube so spring
center bolt is inserted into the locating hole in the
axle tube spring pad or spacer.
(3) Align spring front eye with bolt hole in the
front bracket. Install the eye pivot bolt and nut.
(4) Align shackle eye with bolt hole in rear
bracket. Install bolt and nut.
(5) Tighten the spring front and rear eye pivot bolt
snug do not torque.
(6) Install spring clamp bolts and the retaining
nuts.
(7) Align the auxiliary spring with the primary
spring if equipped. Tighten the nuts until they force
the plate flush against the axle tube.
(8) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle so
that the weight is being supported by the tires.
(9) Tighten the spring clamp retaining nuts to
specifications
(10) Tighten spring front and rear eye pivot bolt
nuts and shackle eye to specifications.
Fig. 2 Rear Spring - 4x2
1 - SPRING CLAMP BOLTS
2 - SPRING SEAT
3 - SPRING
4 - SHACKLE
5 - SPRING PLATE
Fig. 3 Rear Spring - 4x4
1 - SPRING CLAMP BOLT
2 - SPRING SEAT
3 - SPRING
4 - SHACKLE
5 - SPRING PLATE
6 - SPACER
Fig. 4 Rear Spring - Cab-Chassis 11000 GVW
1 - SPRING CLAMP BOLT
2 - SPRING SEAT
3 - AUXILIARY SPRING
4 - SPRING
5 - SHACKLE
6 - SPRING PLATE
7 - SPACER
BR/BEREAR 2 - 29
SPRING (Continued)
Page 76 of 2889

Before undercoating a vehicle, the propeller
shaft and the U-joints should be covered to pre-
vent an out-of-balance condition and driveline
vibration.
CAUTION: Use original equipment replacement
parts for attaching the propeller shafts. The speci-
fied torque must always be applied when tightening
the fasteners.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PROPELLER
SHAFT
VIBRATION
Tires that are out-of-round, or wheels that are
unbalanced, will cause a low frequency vibration.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
Brake drums that are unbalanced will cause a
harsh, low frequency vibration. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
Driveline vibration can also result from loose or
damaged engine mounts.
Propeller shaft vibration increases as the vehicle
speed is increased. A vibration that occurs within a
specific speed range is not usually caused by a pro-
peller shaft being unbalanced. Defective universal
joints, or an incorrect propeller shaft angle, are usu-
ally the cause of such a vibration.
Fig. 3 Rear Propeller Shaft - Dana Axles
1 - SLIDING YOKE
2 - PROPELLER SHAFT
3 - PINION YOKE
4 - CLAMP
5 - SCREW
6 - OUTPUT SHAFT
Fig. 4 Rear Propeller Shaft - Corporate Axles
1 - COMPANION FLANGE
2 - COMPANION YOKE
3 - REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
Fig. 5 Propeller Shaft And Yoke
1 - REFERENCE MARKS
BR/BEPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 3
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)
Page 77 of 2889

DRIVELINE VIBRATION
Drive Condition Possible Cause Correction
Propeller Shaft Noise 1) Undercoating or other foreign
material on shaft.1) Clean exterior of shaft and wash
with solvent.
2) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 2) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
3) Loose or bent U-joint yoke or
excessive runout.3) Install new yoke.
4) Incorrect driveline angularity. 4) Measure and correct driveline
angles.
5) Rear spring center bolt not in
seat.5) Loosen spring u-bolts and seat
center bolt.
6) Worn U-joint bearings. 6) Install new U-joint.
7) Propeller shaft damaged or out
of balance.7) Installl new propeller shaft.
8) Broken rear spring. 8) Install new rear spring.
9) Excessive runout or unbalanced
condition.9) Re-index propeller shaft, test,
and evaluate.
10) Excessive drive pinion gear
shaft runout.10) Re-index propeller shaft and
evaluate.
11) Excessive axle yoke deflection. 11) Inspect and replace yoke if
necessary.
12) Excessive transfer case runout. 12) Inspect and repair as necessary.
Universal Joint Noise 1) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 1) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
2) Lack of lubrication. 2) Replace as U-joints as
necessary.
BALANCE
NOTE: Removing and re-indexing the propeller
shaft 180É relative to the yoke may eliminate some
vibrations.
If propeller shaft is suspected of being unbalanced,
it can be verified with the following procedure:
(1) Raise the vehicle.
(2) Clean all the foreign material from the propel-
ler shaft and the universal joints.
(3) Inspect the propeller shaft for missing balance
weights, broken welds, and bent areas.If the pro-
peller shaft is bent, it must be replaced.
(4) Inspect the universal joints to ensure that they
are not worn, are properly installed, and are cor-
rectly aligned with the shaft.
(5) Check the universal joint clamp screws torque.
(6) Remove the wheels and tires. Install the wheel
lug nuts to retain the brake drums or rotors.
(7) Mark and number the shaft six inches from the
yoke end at four positions 90É apart.(8) Run and accelerate the vehicle until vibration
occurs. Note the intensity and speed the vibration
occurred. Stop the engine.
(9) Install a screw clamp at position 1 (Fig. 6).
(10) Start the engine and re-check for vibration. If
there is little or no change in vibration, move the
clamp to one of the other three positions. Repeat the
vibration test.
(11) If there is no difference in vibration at the
other positions, the source of the vibration may not
be propeller shaft.
(12) If the vibration decreased, install a second
clamp (Fig. 7) and repeat the test.
(13) If the additional clamp causes an additional
vibration, separate the clamps (1/2 inch above and
below the mark). Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 8).
(14) Increase distance between the clamp screws
and repeat the test until the amount of vibration is
at the lowest level. Bend the slack end of the clamps
so the screws will not loosen.
3 - 4 PROPELLER SHAFTBR/BE
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)
Page 78 of 2889

(15) If the vibration remains unacceptable, apply
the same steps to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(16) Install the wheel and tires. Lower the vehicle.
RUNOUT
(1) Remove dirt, rust, paint and undercoating from
the propeller shaft surface where the dial indicator
will contact the shaft.
(2) The dial indicator must be installed perpendic-
ular to the shaft surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft sufficiently far away from weld areas to ensure
that the effects of the weld process will not enter into
the measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If the propeller shaft runout is out of specifica-
tion, remove the propeller shaft, index the shaft 180É,
and re-install the propeller shaft. Measure shaft
runout again.
(6) If the propeller shaft runout is now within
specifications, mark the shaft and yokes for proper
orientation.
(7) If the propeller shaft runout is not within spec-
ifications, verify that the runout of the transmission/
transfer case and axle are within specifications.
Correct as necessary and re-measure propeller shaft
runout.
(8) Replace the propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
RUNOUT SPECIFICATIONS
Front of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
Center of Shaft 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
Rear of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
note:
Measure front/rear runout approximately 3 inches
(76 mm) from the weld seam at each end of the
shaft tube for tube lengths over 30 inches. For
tube lengths under 30 inches, the maximum
allowed runout is 0.020 in. (0.50 mm) for the full
length of the tube.
STANDARD PROCEDURES
To accurately check driveline alignment, raise and
support the vehicle at the axles as level as possible.
Allow the wheels and propeller shaft to turn.
(1) Remove any external bearing snap rings, if
equipped, from universal joint so protractor base sits
flat.
(2) Rotate the shaft until transmission/transfer
case output yoke bearing is facing downward.
NOTE: Always make measurements from front to
rear and from the same side of the vehicle.
Fig. 6 Clamp Screw At Position 1
1 - CLAMP
2 - SCREWDRIVER
Fig. 7 Two Clamp Screws At The Same Position
Fig. 8 Clamp Screws Separated
1-1¤2INCH
BR/BEPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 5
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)
Page 86 of 2889

mate and side gears. The side gears are splined to
the axle shafts.
During straight-ahead driving, the differential pin-
ion gears do not rotate on the pinion mate shaft. This
occurs because input torque applied to the gears is
divided and distributed equally between the two side
gears. As a result, the pinion gears revolve with the
pinion mate shaft but do not rotate around it (Fig. 2).When turning corners, the outside wheel must
travel a greater distance than the inside wheel to
complete a turn. The difference must be compensated
for to prevent the tires from scuffing and skidding
through turns. To accomplish this, the differential
allows the axle shafts to turn at unequal speeds (Fig.
3). In this instance, the input torque applied to the
pinion gears is not divided equally. The pinion gears
now rotate around the pinion mate shaft in opposite
directions. This allows the side gear and axle shaft
attached to the outside wheel to rotate at a faster
speed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, tooth contact, worn/damaged
gears or the carrier housing not having the proper
offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
Fig. 1 216 FBI Differential Cover
1 - FILL PLUG
2 - IDENTIFICATION TAG
3 - DIFFERENTIAL COVER
Fig. 2 Differential Operation-Straight Ahead Driving
1 - IN STRAIGHT AHEAD DRIVING EACH WHEEL ROTATES AT
100% OF CASE SPEED
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - PINION GEARS ROTATE WITH CASE
Fig. 3 Differential Operation-On Turns
1 - PINION GEARS ROTATE ON PINION SHAFT
BR/BEFRONT AXLE - 216FBI 3 - 13
FRONT AXLE - 216FBI (Continued)
Page 87 of 2889

cle turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a
snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by:
²Damaged drive shaft.²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out of balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear end
vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brack-
ets and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged) can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
3 - 14 FRONT AXLE - 216FBIBR/BE
FRONT AXLE - 216FBI (Continued)
Page 89 of 2889

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Loss Of Lubricant 1. Lubricant level too high. 1. Drain lubricant to the correct level.
2. Worn axle shaft seals. 2. Replace seals.
3. Cracked differential housing. 3. Repair as necessary.
4. Worn pinion seal. 4. Replace seal.
5. Worn/scored yoke. 5. Replace yoke and seal.
6. Axle cover not properly sealed. 6. Remove, clean, and re-seal cover.
Axle Overheating 1. Lubricant level low. 1. Fill differential to correct level.
2. Improper grade of lubricant. 2. Fill differential with the correct fluid
type and quantity.
3. Bearing pre-loads too high. 3. Re-adjust bearing pre-loads.
4. Insufficient ring gear backlash. 4. Re-adjust ring gear backlash.
Gear Teeth Broke 1. Overloading. 1. Replace gears. Examine other gears
and bearings for possible damage.
2. Erratic clutch operation. 2. Replace gears and examine the
remaining parts for damage. Avoid
erratic clutch operation.
3. Ice-spotted pavement. 3. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage.
4. Improper adjustments. 4. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage. Ensure ring
gear backlash is correct.
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct fluid
type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion contact
pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched ring
gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out. Replace
components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap bolts. 8. Inspect differential components and
replace as necessary. Ensure that the
bearing caps are torqued tot he proper
specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheels and tires.
(3) Remove the brake calipers and rotors. Refer to
Group 5, Brakes, for proper procedures.(4) Remove ABS wheel speed sensors, if equipped.
Refer to Group 5, Brakes, for proper procedures.
(5) Disconnect the axle vent hose.
(6) Disconnect vacuum hose and electrical connec-
tor at disconnect housing.
(7) Remove the front propeller shaft.
3 - 16 FRONT AXLE - 216FBIBR/BE
FRONT AXLE - 216FBI (Continued)