radiator cap DODGE RAM 2001 Service Owner's Manual

Inspect radiator core for corroded, bent or missing
cooling fins. Inspect the core for bent or damaged
cooling tubes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position fan shroud over the fan blades rear-
ward towards engine.
(2) Install rubber insulators to alignment dowels
at lower part of radiator.
(3) Lower the radiator into position while guiding
the two alignment dowels into lower radiator sup-
port. Different alignment holes are provided in the
lower radiator support for each engine application.
(4) Install two upper radiator mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect both radiator hoses and install hose
clamps.
(6) Install windshield washer reservoir tank.
(7) Position fan shroud to flanges on sides of radi-
ator. Install fan shroud mounting bolts (Fig. 37).
Tighten bolts to 6 N´m (50 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose to
radiator filler neck nipple.
(9) Connect the overflow hose to the radiator.
(10) Install battery negative cables.
(11) Position heater controls tofull heatposition.
(12) Fill cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(13) Operate engine until it reaches normal tem-
perature. Check cooling system fluid levels.
RADIATOR - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
The radiator is a aluminum cross-flow design with
horizontal tubes through the radiator core and verti-
cal plastic side tanks (Fig. 39).
This radiator contains an internal transmission oil
cooler only on the V-10 gas engine and the 5.9L die-
sel engine combinations.
OPERATION
The radiator supplies sufficient heat transfer using
the cooling fins interlaced between the horizontal
tubes in the radiator core to cool the engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐRADIATOR
COOLANT FLOW
Use the following procedure to determine if coolant
is flowing through the cooling system.
(1) Idle engine until operating temperature is
reached. If the upper radiator hose is warm to the
touch, the thermostat is opening and coolant is flow-
ing to the radiator.WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. USING A RAG TO
COVER THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, OPEN
RADIATOR CAP SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. THIS
WILL ALLOW ANY BUILT-UP PRESSURE TO VENT
TO THE RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. AFTER PRES-
SURE BUILD-UP HAS BEEN RELEASED, REMOVE
CAP FROM FILLER NECK.
(2) Drain a small amount of coolant from the radi-
ator until the ends of the radiator tubes are visible
through the filler neck. Idle the engine at normal
operating temperature. If coolant is flowing past the
exposed tubes, the coolant is circulating.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery negative cables.
Remove the nuts retaining the positive cable to the
top of radiator. Position positive battery cable to rear
of vehicle.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 39 Cross Flow RadiatorÐTypical
1 - COOLING TUBES
2 - TANKS
BR/BEENGINE 7 - 63
RADIATOR - 8.0L (Continued)

(10) Lift radiator straight up and out of engine
compartment. The bottom of the radiator is equipped
with two alignment dowels that fit into holes in the
lower radiator support panel (Fig. 42). Rubber bis-
cuits (insulators) are installed to these dowels. Take
care not to damage cooling fins or tubes on the radi-
ator and air conditioning condenser when removing.
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins are necessary for good heat
transfer. The radiator and air conditioning fins
should be cleaned when an accumulation of debris
has occurred. With the engine cold, apply cold water
and compressed air to the back (engine side) of the
radiator to flush the radiator and/or A/C condenser of
debris.
INSPECTION
Inspect the radiator side tanks for cracks, broken
or missing fittings also inspect the joint where the
tanks seam up to the radiator core for signs of leak-
age and/or deteriorating seals.
Inspect radiator core for corroded, bent or missing
cooling fins. Inspect the core for bent or damaged
cooling tubes.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position fan shroud over the fan blades rear-
ward towards engine.
(2) Install rubber insulators to alignment dowels
at lower part of radiator.
(3) Lower the radiator into position while guiding
the two alignment dowels into lower radiator sup-
port. Different alignment holes are provided in the
lower radiator support for each engine application.
(4) Install two upper radiator mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect both radiator hoses and install hose
clamps.
(6) Connect transmission cooler lines to radiator
tank. Inspect quick connect fittings for debris and
install until an audible ªclickº is heard. Pull apart to
verify connection.
(7) Install windshield washer reservoir tank.
(8) Position fan shroud to flanges on sides of radi-
ator. Install fan shroud mounting bolts (Fig. 41).
Tighten bolts to 6 N´m (50 in. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install metal clips to top of fan shroud.
(10) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose to
radiator filler neck nipple.
(11) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank to fan
shroud (fits into T-slots on shroud).
(12) Install battery negative cables.
(13) Install positive battery cable to top of radia-
tor. Tighten radiator-to-battery cable mounting nuts.
(14) Position heater controls tofull heatposition.(15) Fill cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Operate engine until it reaches normal tem-
perature. Check cooling system and automatic trans-
mission (if equipped) fluid levels.
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION
Radiators are equipped with a pressure cap, which
releases pressure at some point within a range of
97-124 kPa (14-18 psi). The pressure relief point (in
pounds) is engraved on top of cap.
The cooling system will operate at pressures
slightly above atmospheric pressure. This results in a
higher coolant boiling point allowing increased radi-
ator cooling capacity.
A rubber gasket seals radiator filler neck to pre-
vent leakage. This is done to keep system under
pressure. It also maintains vacuum during coolant
cool-down allowing coolant to return from reserve/
overflow tank.
OPERATION
The cap (Fig. 43) contains a spring-loaded pressure
relief valve that opens when system pressure reaches
release range of 97-124 kPa (14-18 psi).
A vent valve in the center of cap allows a small
coolant flow through cap when coolant is below boil-
ing temperature. The valve is completely closed when
boiling point is reached. As the coolant cools, it con-
Fig. 43 Radiator Pressure Cap and Filler NeckÐ
Typical
1 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
2 - RUBBER SEALS
3 - VENT VALVE
4 - RADIATOR TANK
5 - FILLER NECK
6 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
7 - MAIN SPRING
8 - GASKET RETAINER
BR/BEENGINE 7 - 65
RADIATOR - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

tracts and creates a vacuum in the cooling system.
This causes the vacuum valve to open and coolant in
the reserve/overflow tank to be drawn through its
connecting hose into radiator. If the vacuum valve is
stuck shut, the radiator hoses will collapse on cool-
down. Clean the vent valve (Fig. 43).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐRADIATOR
CAP-TO-FILLER NECK SEAL
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be tested by removing overflow hose from
radiator filler neck nipple. Attach hose of pressure
tester tool 7700 (or equivalent) to nipple. It will be
necessary to disconnect hose from its adapter for
filler neck. Pump air into radiator. The pressure cap
upper gasket should relieve at 69-124 kPa (10-18 psi)
and hold pressure at a minimum of 55 kPa (8 psi).
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS ÐDO NOT
OPEN HOTÐ ON RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, ARE
A SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, RADIATOR CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE SYSTEM IS HOT AND/OR
UNDER PRESSURE.
Do not remove radiator cap at any timeexceptfor
the following purposes:
²Check and adjust antifreeze freeze point
²Refill system with new antifreeze
²Conducting service procedures
²Checking for vacuum leaks
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT AT LEAST 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
RADIATOR CAP. WITH A RAG, SQUEEZE RADIATOR
UPPER HOSE TO CHECK IF SYSTEM IS UNDER
PRESSURE. PLACE A RAG OVER CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING CAP DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUID TO
ESCAPE THROUGH THE COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW HOSE INTO RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK. SQUEEZE RADIATOR UPPER HOSE TO
DETERMINE WHEN PRESSURE HAS BEEN
RELEASED. WHEN COOLANT AND STEAM STOP
BEING PUSHED INTO TANK AND SYSTEM PRES-
SURE DROPS, REMOVE RADIATOR CAP COM-
PLETELY.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐRADIATOR CAP
Remove cap from radiator. Be sure that sealing
surfaces are clean. Moisten rubber gasket with water
and install cap on pressure tester 7700 or an equiv-
alent (Fig. 44).NOTE: Radiator pressure testing tools are very sen-
sitive to small air leaks, which will not cause cool-
ing system problems. A pressure cap that does not
have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap
needs replacement.
Operate tester pump to bring pressure to 104 kPa
(15 psi) on gauge. If pressure cap fails to hold pres-
sure of at least 97 kPa (14 psi) replace cap.
The pressure cap may test properly while posi-
tioned on tool 7700 (or equivalent). It may not hold
pressure or vacuum when installed on radiator. If so,
inspect radiator filler neck and cap's top gasket for
damage. Also inspect for dirt or distortion that may
prevent cap from sealing properly.
CLEANING
Clean radiator pressure cap using a mild soap and
water mixture. DO NOT use any chemicals stronger
than mild soap, damage to the seal can occur .
INSPECTION
Hold cap at eye level, right side up. The vent valve
(Fig. 45) at bottom of cap should open. If rubber gas-
Fig. 44 Pressure Testing Radiator CapÐTypical
Tester
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
7 - 66 ENGINEBR/BE
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

ket has swollen and prevents vent valve from open-
ing, replace cap.
Hold cap at eye level, upside down. If any light can
be seen between vent valve and rubber gasket,
replace cap.Do not use a replacement cap that
has a spring to hold vent shut.A replacement cap
must be the type designed for a coolant reserve/over-
flow system with a completely sealed diaphragm
spring and a rubber gasket. This gasket is used to
seal to radiator filler neck top surface. Use of proper
cap will allow coolant return to radiator.
WATER PUMP - 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L
DESCRIPTION
The water pump is located on the engine front
cover, and has an integral pulley attached (Fig. 46).
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in a bearing pressed into the
water pump body. The body has a small hole for ven-
tilation. The water pump seals are lubricated by
antifreeze in the coolant mixture. Additional lubrica-
tion is not necessary.
OPERATION
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core,
this coolant absorbs the heat generated when the
engine is running. The pump is driven by the engine
crankshaft via a drive belt.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐWATER PUMP
A quick test to determine if pump is working is to
check if heater warms properly. A defective water
pump will not be able to circulate heated coolant
through the long heater hose to the heater core.
REMOVAL
The water pump on all models can be removed
without discharging the air conditioning system (if
equipped).
The water pump on all gas powered engines is
bolted directly to the engine timing chain case/cover.
On all 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L gas powered engines, a gas-
ket is used as a seal between the water pump and
timing chain case/cover.
If water pump is replaced because of bearing/shaft
damage or leaking shaft seal, the mechanical cooling
fan assembly should also be inspected. Inspect for
fatigue cracks, loose blades or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan if
any of these conditions are found. Also check condi-
tion of the thermal viscous fan drive (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is clean,
drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
(3) Remove windshield washer reservoir tank from
radiator fan shroud.
Fig. 45 Radiator Pressure Cap
1 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
2 - RUBBER SEALS
3 - VENT VALVE
4 - RADIATOR TANK
5 - FILLER NECK
6 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
7 - MAIN SPRING
8 - GASKET RETAINER
Fig. 46 Water Pump LocationÐTypical
1 - WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE
2 - FAN BLADE ASSEMBLY
3 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
4 - WATER PUMP AND PULLEY
BR/BEENGINE 7 - 67
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

INSTALLATION
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISO-
LATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,
THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYS-
TEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PER-
FORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS
IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG
SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-
CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIR-
BAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(1) Position the headlamp switch to the instru-
ment panel.
(2) Reconnect the two instrument panel wire har-
ness connectors for the headlamp switch to the con-
nector receptacles on the back of the switch.
(3) Position the headlamp switch into the instru-
ment panel.
(4) Install and tighten the three screws that secure
the headlamp switch to the instrument panel.
Tighten the screws to 2.2 N´m (20 in. lbs.).
(5) Reinstall the cluster bezel onto the instrument
panel. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
CLUSTER BEZEL - INSTALLATION).
(6) Connect the battery negative cable.
HEADLAMP UNIT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove push-in fastener attaching seal to radi-
ator closure panel.
(3) Remove park and turn signal lamp.
(4) Remove screws attaching top of headlamp mod-
ule to radiator closure panel (Fig. 18).
(5) From behind front bumper, remove screws
attaching bottom of headlamp module to radiator clo-
sure panel.
(6) From behind the bumper, loosen the bumper
mounting nuts to allow the bumper to lower for
clearance. This is only necessary on the side to be
removed.
(7) Separate headlamp module from radiator clo-
sure panel.
(8) Disengage wire connector from headlamp
bulb(s) (Fig. 19).
(9) Separate headlamp module from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) If removed, install headlamp bulb(s).
(2) Connect headlamp bulb wire connector(s).
(3) Position headlamp in radiator closure panel.
(4) From behind front bumper, install the screws
attaching bottom of headlamp module to radiator clo-
sure panel.
Fig. 18 Headlamp
1 - HEADLAMP SOCKET
2 - CARRIER BRACKET
3 - TURN AND PARK LAMP BULB
4 - TURN AND PARK LAMP HOUSING
5 - HEADLAMP HOUSING
6 - SCREW
Fig. 19 Headlamp-Sport
1 - HIGH BEAM BULB SOCKET
2 - PUSH-IN FASTENER
3 - SEAL
4 - HEADLAMP MODULE
5 - TURN/PARK LAMP MODULE
6 - LOW BEAM BULB SOCKET
7 - TURN/PARK LAMP BULB
8L - 20 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORBR/BE
HEADLAMP SWITCH (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Disconnect the headlamp and dash wire har-
ness connector for the washer pump/motor from the
motor connector receptacle (Fig. 3).
(3) Disconnect the washer hose from the barbed
outlet nipple of the washer pump/motor and allow
the washer fluid to drain into a clean container for
reuse.
(4) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry the barbed inlet nipple of
the washer pump out of the rubber grommet seal in
the reservoir. Care must be taken not to damage the
reservoir.
(5) Remove the rubber grommet seal from the
washer pump mounting hole in the washer reservoir
and discard.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install a new rubber grommet seal into the
washer pump mounting hole in the washer reservoir.
Always use a new rubber grommet seal on the reser-
voir.
(2) Position the barbed inlet nipple of the washer
pump to the rubber grommet seal in the reservoir.
(3) Press firmly and evenly on the washer pump
until the barbed inlet nipple is fully seated in the
rubber grommet seal in the washer reservoir mount-
ing hole.
(4) Reconnect the washer hose to the barbed outlet
nipple of the washer pump.(5) Reconnect the headlamp and dash wire harness
connector for the washer pump/motor unit to the
motor connector receptacle (Fig. 3).
(6) Refill the washer reservoir with the washer
fluid drained from the reservoir during the removal
procedure.
(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
WASHER RESERVOIR
DESCRIPTION
The molded plastic washer fluid reservoir is
secured with integral mounting tabs to keyed slots
on the left side of the radiator fan shroud in the left
front corner of the engine compartment. A bright yel-
low plastic filler cap with a rubber seal and an Inter-
national Control and Display Symbol icon for
ªWindshield Washerº and the text ªWasher Fluid
Onlyº molded into it snaps over the open end of the
filler neck. A bail strap that is integral to the cap
secures the cap to the reservoir filler neck when it is
removed for inspecting or adjusting the fluid level in
the reservoir. There are separate, dedicated holes on
the rear side of the reservoir provided for the mount-
ing of the washer/pump motor unit and the washer
fluid level switch.
The washer reservoir cannot be repaired and, if
faulty or damaged, it must be replaced. The washer
reservoir, the grommet seals for the washer pump/
motor unit and the washer fluid level switch, and the
filler cap are each available for service replacement.
OPERATION
The washer fluid reservoir provides a secure,
on-vehicle storage location for a large reserve of
washer fluid for operation of the washer system. The
washer reservoir filler neck provides a clearly
marked and readily accessible point from which to
add washer fluid to the reservoir. The washer/pump
motor unit is located in a sump area near the bottom
of the reservoir to be certain that washer fluid will
be available to the pump as the fluid level in the res-
ervoir becomes depleted. The washer fluid level
switch is mounted just above the sump area of the
reservoir so that there will be adequate warning to
the vehicle operator that the washer fluid level is
low, before the washer system will no longer operate.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Drain the engine cooling system. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAIN/
ALL EXCEPT DIESEL ENGINE) or (Refer to 7 -
Fig. 3 Washer Reservoir
1 - FAN SHROUD
2 - WASHER FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
3 - WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
4 - WASHER RESERVOIR
8R - 10 WIPERS/WASHERSBR/BE
WASHER PUMP/MOTOR (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
REMOVAL).
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil.
(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the third
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for the
correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing)
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM HOT COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn OFF the
engine.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
Perform the test procedure on each cylinder accord-
ing to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While
testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through
the throttle body, tailpipe or oil filler cap opening.
Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE
LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART below
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 9
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier then using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the upper crossmember and top core
support.
(4) Remove the transmission oil cooler (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/TRANSMISSION/TRANS COOLER -
REMOVAL).(5) Discharge the air conditioning system, if
equipped (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the A/C compressor with the lines
attached. Set aside.
(8) If equipped, remove the condenser (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
A/C CONDENSER - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove the washer bottle.
(10) Remove the fan and fan shroud (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(11) Remove radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL).
(12) Remove the generator with the wire connec-
tions (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/GEN-
ERATOR - REMOVAL).
(13) Remove the air cleaner box.
(14) Disconnect the throttle linkage.
(15) Remove throttle body (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/THROTTLE BODY -
REMOVAL).
(16) Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(17) Remove the distributor cap and wiring.
(18) Disconnect the heater hoses.
(19) Disconnect the power steering hoses, if
equipped.
(20) Perform the Fuel System Pressure release
procedure (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).Disconnect
the fuel supply line (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FITTING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(21) On Manual Transmission vehicles, remove the
shift lever.
(22) Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist.
(23) Remove the drain plug and drain the engine
oil.
(24) Remove engine front mount through-bolt nuts.
(25)Automatic TransmissionRemove the trans-
mission cooler line brackets from oil pan.
(26) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(27) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(28)Manual TransmissionRemove the transmis-
sion.(Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/
MANUAL - REMOVAL).
(29) Lower the vehicle.
CAUTION: DO NOT lift the engine by the intake
manifold.
(30) Install an engine lifting fixture.
9 - 12 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

(31) Remove engine from vehicle and install
engine assembly on a repair stand.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove engine from the repair stand and posi-
tion in the engine compartment. Position the
through-bolt into the support cushion brackets.
(2) Install an engine support fixture.
(3) Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist.
(4)Manual TransmissionInstall the transmis-
sion (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/
MANUAL - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the starter and connect the starter
wires (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install exhaust pipe to manifold.
(7)Automatic TransmissionInstall the trans-
mission cooler line brackets on oil pan.
(8) Install engine front mount through-bolt nuts.
Tighten the nuts.
(9) Install the drain plug and tighten to 34 N´m
(25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Lower the vehicle.
(11) Remove engine-lifting fixture.
(12) On Manual Transmission vehicles, install the
shift lever.
(13) Connect the fuel supply line (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CON-
NECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(14) Connect the power steering hoses, if equipped.
(15) Connect the heater hoses.
(16) Install the distributor cap and wiring.
(17) Install the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).(18) Using a new gasket, install throttle body
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/
THROTTLE BODY - INSTALLATION).
(19) Connect the throttle linkage.
(20) Install the air cleaner box.
(21) Install the generator and wire connections
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER
MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(22) Install radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION).
(23) Install the fan and fan shroud (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
(24) Install the washer bottle.
(25) If equipped, install the condenser (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
A/C CONDENSER - INSTALLATION).
(26) Install the A/C compressor with the lines
attached.
(27) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(28) Evacuate and charge the air conditioning sys-
tem, if equipped (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(29) Install the transmission oil cooler (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/TRANSMISSION/TRANS COOLER -
INSTALLATION).
(30) Install the upper crossmember and top core
support.
(31) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(32) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(33) Start engine and check for leaks.
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 13
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

(8) Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with
keyway location in crankshaft sprocket and in cam-
shaft sprocket.
(9) Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight
against the chain in position as described).
(10) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respec-
tive shafts and use a straightedge to check alignment
of timing marks (Fig. 22).
(11) Install the camshaft bolt/cup washer. Tighten
bolt to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Measure camshaft end play (Fig. 23). (Refer to
9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for proper clear-
ance. If not within limits, install a new timing chain
tensioner.
(13) Each tappet reused must be installed in the
same position at which it was removed.When cam-
shaft is replaced, all of the tappets must be
replaced.Install hydraulic tappets (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
(CAM IN BLOCK) - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - INSTALLA-
TION).
(16) Install distributor.
(17) Install cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(18) Install radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION).
(19) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(20) Connect battery negative cable.
(21) Start engine and check for leaks.
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE-CONNECTING ROD
BEARING FITTING
Fit all rods on a bank until completed. DO NOT
alternate from one bank to another, because connect-
ing rods and pistons are not interchangeable from
one bank to another.
The bearing caps are not interchangeable and
should be marked at removal to ensure correct
assembly.
Each bearing cap has a small V-groove across the
parting face. When installing the lower bearing shell,
be certain that the V-groove in the shell is in line
with the V-groove in the cap. This provides lubrica-
tion of the cylinder wall in the opposite bank.The bearing shells must be installed so that the
tangs are in the machined grooves in the rods and
caps.
Limits of taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft
journals should be held to 0.025 mm (0.001 in.).
Bearings are available in 0.025 mm (0.001 in.), 0.051
mm (0.002 in.), 0.076 mm (0.003 in.), 0.254 mm
(0.010 in.) and 0.305 mm (0.012 in.) undersize.
Install the bearings in pairs. DO NOT use a new
bearing half with an old bearing half. DO NOT
file the rods or bearing caps.
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft (Fig. 24) is of a forged steel splayed
type design, with four main bearing journals.The
crankshaft is located at the bottom of the engine
block and is held in place with four main bearing
caps.
OPERATION
The crankshaft transfers force generated by com-
bustion within the cylinder bores to the flywheel or
flexplate.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
(3) Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove
bearing caps and bearings one at a time.
(4) Lift the crankshaft out of the block.
Fig. 24 CrankshaftÐ3.9L Engine
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 31
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK) (Continued)