check engine light DODGE RAM 2001 Service Workshop Manual
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Page 630 of 2889

LAMPS/LIGHTING - INTERIOR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
LAMPS/LIGHTING - INTERIOR
SPECIFICATIONS........................33
DOME LAMP
REMOVAL..............................33
INSTALLATION...........................33
DOOR AJAR SWITCH
DESCRIPTION...........................34
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................34
DOOR AJAR SWITCH....................34
REMOVAL..............................35
INSTALLATION...........................35GLOVE BOX LAMP AND SWITCH
REMOVAL..............................35
INSTALLATION...........................35
READING LAMP
DESCRIPTION...........................36
OPERATION.............................36
REMOVAL..............................36
INSTALLATION...........................36
VANITY LAMP
REMOVAL..............................37
INSTALLATION...........................37
LAMPS/LIGHTING - INTERIOR
SPECIFICATIONS
INTERIOR LAMPS
LAMP BULB
A/C HEATER CONTROL 158
ASH RECEIVER 161
CIGAR LIGHTER 161
HEADLAMP SWITCH 158
HEATER CONTROL 158
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER PC194
RADIO ASC
AIRBAG HIGH LINE PC194
AIRBAG LOW LINE PC74
ANTI-LOCK BRAKE PC74
BATTERY VOLTAGE PC194
BRAKE WARNING PC194
CHECK ENGINE PC74
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE PC74
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE PC194
HIGH BEAM PC194
LOW FUEL PC194
LOW WASHER FLUID PC74
MAINTENANCE
REQUIREDPC74
MESSAGE CENTER PC194
SEAT BELT PC74
LAMP BULB
TURN SIGNAL PC194
UPSHIFT PC74
DOME 1004
GLOVE COMPARTMENT 1891
VANITY MIRROR LAMP P/N 6501966
DOME LAMP
REMOVAL
(1) Using a small flat blade, pry the left side (driv-
er's side) of the dome lamp lens downward from
dome lamp.
(2) Allow the lens to hang down (Fig. 1) , this will
disengage the right side of the lamp (passenger's
side) from the headliner.
(3) Pull the right side of the lamp down and slide
the lamp to the right (Fig. 2) .
(4) Separate the lamp from the headliner.
(5) Disengage dome lamp wire connector from body
wire harness.
(6) Separate dome lamp from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position dome lamp at headliner.
(2) Connect dome lamp wire connector to body
wire harness.
(3) Position the left side of the lamp in the head-
liner opening and slide lamp to the left.
(4) Push the right side of the lamp in the head-
liner opening and push the lamp lens up into the
lamp to secure.
BR/BELAMPS/LIGHTING - INTERIOR 8L - 33
Page 708 of 2889

(3) If vacuum is less than ten inches of mercury,
determine source of leak. Check vacuum line to
engine for leaks. Also check actual engine intake
manifold vacuum. If manifold vacuum does not meet
this requirement, check for poor engine performance
and repair as necessary.
(4) If vacuum line to engine is not leaking, check
for leak at vacuum reservoir. To locate and gain
access to reservoir, refer to Vacuum Reservoir Remov-
al/Installation in this group. Disconnect vacuum line
at reservoir and connect a hand-operated vacuum
pump to reservoir fitting. Apply vacuum. Reservoir
vacuum should not bleed off. If vacuum is being lost,
replace reservoir.
(5) Verify operation of one-way check valve and
check it for leaks.
(a) Locate one-way check valve. The valve is
located in vacuum line between vacuum reservoir
and engine vacuum source. Disconnect vacuum
hoses (lines) at each end of valve.
(b) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
reservoir end of check valve. Apply vacuum. Vac-
uum should not bleed off. If vacuum is being lost,
replace one-way check valve.
(c) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
vacuum source end of check valve. Apply vacuum.
Vacuum should flow through valve. If vacuum is
not flowing, replace one-way check valve. Seal the
fitting at opposite end of valve with a finger and
apply vacuum. If vacuum will not hold, diaphragm
within check valve has ruptured. Replace valve.
Diesel Engines With Automatic Trans.
On diesel powered engines equipped with an auto-
matic transmission: an engine driven vacuum pump,
a one-way check valve and vacuum lines are used to
supply vacuum to the speed control servo. A vacuum
reservoir is not used.
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose at speed control servo
and install a vacuum gauge into the disconnected
hose.
(2) Start engine and observe gauge at idle. For
vacuum testing and vacuum specifications, refer to
Vacuum Pump OutputÐDiesel Engine in 9, Engines.
(3) If vacuum pump output is OK, determine other
source of leak. Check all vacuum lines to: speed con-
trol servo, engine vacuum pump and heating/air con-
ditioning system for leaks.
(4) Verify operation of one-way check valve and
check it for leaks.(a) Locate one-way check valve. The valve is
located in vacuum line between speed control servo
and engine vacuum pump. Disconnect vacuum
hoses (lines) at each end of valve.
(b) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
reservoir end of check valve. Apply vacuum. Vac-
uum should not bleed off. If vacuum is being lost,
replace one-way check valve.
(c) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
vacuum source end of check valve. Apply vacuum.
Vacuum should flow through valve. If vacuum is
not flowing, replace one-way check valve. Seal the
fitting at opposite end of valve with a finger and
apply vacuum. If vacuum will not hold, diaphragm
within check valve has ruptured. Replace valve.
Diesel Engine With Manual Trans.
Vacuum is not used for any part of the speed con-
trol system if equipped with a diesel engine and a
manual transmission.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ROAD TEST
Perform a vehicle road test to verify reports of
speed control system malfunction. The road test
should include attention to the speedometer.
If a road test verifies a system problem and the
speedometer operates properly, check for:
²A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). If a DTC
exists, conduct tests per the Powertrain Diagnostic
Procedures service manual.
²A misadjusted brake (stop) lamp switch. This
could also cause an intermittent problem.
²Loose, damaged or corroded electrical connec-
tions at the servo. Corrosion should be removed from
electrical terminals and a light coating of Mopar
MultiPurpose Grease, or equivalent, applied.
²Leaking vacuum reservoir.
²Loose or leaking vacuum hoses or connections.
²Defective one-way vacuum check valve.
²Secure attachment of both ends of the speed con-
trol servo cable.
²Smooth operation of throttle linkage and throttle
body air valve.
²Failed speed control servo. Do the servo vacuum
test.
CAUTION: When test probing for voltage or conti-
nuity at electrical connectors, care must be taken
not to damage connector, terminals or seals. If
these components are damaged, intermittent or
complete system failure may occur.
BR/BESPEED CONTROL 8P - 3
SPEED CONTROL (Continued)
Page 722 of 2889

er-up mode will also apply if the battery goes dead
while the system is armed, and battery jump-starting
is attempted. The engine no-run feature will prevent
the engine from starting until the alarm system has
been actively or passively disarmed. The VTSS will
be armed until the technician or vehicle operator has
actively or passively disarmed the alarm system. If
the VTSS is in the disarmed mode prior to a battery
disconnect or failure, it will remain disarmed after
the battery is reconnected or replaced, or if jump-
starting is attempted.
TAMPER ALERT
The VTSS tamper alert feature will sound the horn
three times upon disarming, if the alarm was trig-
gered and has since timed-out (about fifteen min-
utes). This feature alerts the vehicle operator that
the VTSS alarm was activated while the vehicle was
unattended.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - VEHICLE THEFT
SECURITY SYSTEM
The VTSS-related hard wired inputs to and out-
puts from the high-line or premium Central Timer
Module (CTM) may be diagnosed and tested using
conventional diagnostic tools and procedures. Refer
to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring
information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire
and connector repair procedures, further details on
wire harness routing and retention, as well as pin-
out and location views for the various wire harness
connectors, splices and grounds.
However, conventional diagnostic methods may not
prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the CTM, the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), or the Chrysler
Collision Detection (CCD) data bus network. In order
to obtain conclusive testing of the VTSS, the CTM,
the PCM, and the CCD data bus network must also
be checked. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate
means to diagnose the VTSS requires the use of a
DRBIIIž scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnos-
tic information. The DRBIIIž scan tool can provide
confirmation that the CCD data bus network is func-
tional, that all of the electronic modules are sending
and receiving the proper messages over the CCD
data bus, and that these modules are receiving the
proper hard wired inputs and responding with the
proper hard wired outputs needed to perform their
functions. See the ªVehicle Theft Security Systemº
menu item on the DRBIIIž scan tool.
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISO-LATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,
THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYS-
TEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PER-
FORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS
IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG
SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-
CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIR-
BAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
VTSS INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION
The Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) indica-
tor consists of a red Light-Emitting Diode (LED)
located on the electronic circuit board of the Compass
Mini-Trip Computer (CMTC) within the overhead
console. The LED extends through a hole in the
CMTC lens located near the forward end of the over-
head console housing near the windshield.
The VTSS indicator cannot be adjusted or repaired
and, if faulty or damaged, the entire CMTC unit
must be replaced. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/OVER-
HEAD CONSOLE/COMPASS/MINI-TRIP COM-
PUTER - DESCRIPTION).
OPERATION
The Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) indica-
tor gives a visible indication of the VTSS arming sta-
tus. One side of Light-Emitting Diode (LED) in the
VTSS indicator is connected to battery current
through a fused B(+) circuit and a fuse in the Junc-
tion Block (JB), so the indicator remains functional
regardless of the ignition switch position. The other
side of the LED is hard wired to the Central Timer
Module (CTM), which controls the operation of the
VTSS indicator by pulling this side of the LED cir-
cuit to ground. When the VTSS arming is in
progress, the CTM will flash the LED rapidly on and
off for about fifteen seconds. When the VTSS has
been successfully armed, the CTM will flash the LED
on and off continually at a much slower rate until
the VTSS has been disarmed. The VTSS indicator
can be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools
and methods.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - VTSS INDICATOR
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) indicator con-
dition. If the problem being diagnosed is related to
indicator accuracy, be certain to confirm that the
problem is with the indicator and not with an inop-
erative VTSS. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/VEHICLE
THEFT SECURITY SYSTEM- DIAGNOSIS AND
BR/BEVEHICLE THEFT SECURITY 8Q - 3
VEHICLE THEFT SECURITY (Continued)
Page 1157 of 2889

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐREAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 10 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)
Page 1170 of 2889

COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
The alloy cast iron cylinder heads (Fig. 7) are held
in place by eight bolts. The spark plugs are located
at the peak of the wedge between the valves.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable from the
battery.
(2) Drain cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the intake manifold-to-generator
bracket support rod. Remove the generator.
(4) Remove closed crankcase ventilation system.
(5) Disconnect the evaporation control system.
(6) Remove the air cleaner, air in-let hose and res-
onator.
(7) Perform fuel system pressure release procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Disconnect the fuel supply line from the fuel
rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/
QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Disconnect accelerator linkage and if so
equipped, the speed control and transmission kick-
down cables.
(10) Remove distributor cap and wires.
(11) Disconnect the coil wires.
(12) Disconnect coolant temperature sending unit
wire.
(13) Disconnect heater hoses and bypass hose.
(14) Disconnect the vacuum supply hoses from the
intake manifold.
(15) Disconnect the fuel injector harness and
secure out of the way.
(16) Remove cylinder head covers and gaskets
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLIN-
DER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).(17) Remove intake manifold and throttle body as
an assembly. Discard the flange side gaskets and the
front and rear cross-over gaskets.
(18) Remove exhaust manifolds (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/EXHAUST MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(19) Remove rocker arm assemblies and push rods.
Identify to ensure installation in original locations.
(20) Remove the head bolts from each cylinder
head and remove cylinder heads. Discard the cylin-
der head gasket.
(21) Remove spark plugs.
CLEANING
Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder
heads.
Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket surfaces
using a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect all surfaces with a straightedge if there is
any reason to suspect leakage. If out-of-flatness
exceeds 0.00075mm (0.0001in.) times the span length
in any direction, either replace head or lightly
machine the head surface.
FOR EXAMPLE:ÐA 305 mm (12 in.) span is
0.102 mm (0.004 in.) out-of-flat. The allowable out-of-
flat is 305 x 0.00075 (12 x 0.00075) equals 0.23 mm
(0.009 in.). This amount of out-of-flat is acceptable.
The cylinder head surface finish should be
1.78-3.00 microns (70-125 microinches).
Inspect push rods. Replace worn or bent rods.
INSTALLATION
The alloy cast iron cylinder heads (Fig. 7) are held
in place by eight bolts. The spark plugs are located
at the peak of the wedge between the valves.
(1) Position the new cylinder head gaskets onto
the cylinder block.
(2) Position the cylinder heads onto head gaskets
and cylinder block.
(3) Starting at top center, tighten all cylinder head
bolts, in sequence, to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque (Fig.
7). Repeat procedure, tighten all cylinder head bolts
to 143 N´m (105 ft. lbs.) torque. Repeat procedure to
confirm that all bolts are at 143 N´m (105 ft. lbs.)
torque.
CAUTION: When tightening the rocker arm bolts, be
sure the piston in that cylinder is NOT at TDC. Con-
tact between the valves and piston could occur.
(4) Install push rods and rocker arm assemblies in
their original positions. Tighten the bolts to 28 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.) torque.
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 23
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)
Page 1174 of 2889

(1) When refacing valve seats, it is important that
the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseat-
ing stones. A true and complete surface must be
obtained.
(2) Measure the concentricity of valve seat using a
dial indicator. Total runout should not exceed 0.051
mm (0.002 in.) total indicator reading.
(3) Inspect the valve seat with Prussian blue, to
determine where the valve contacts the seat. To do
this, coat valve seat LIGHTLY with Prussian blue
then set valve in place. Rotate the valve with light
pressure. If the blue is transferred to the center of
valve face, contact is satisfactory. If the blue is trans-
ferred to the top edge of valve face, lower valve seat
with a 15É stone. If the blue is transferred to bottom
edge of valve face raise valve seat with a 60É stone.
(4) When seat is properly positioned the width of
intake seats should be 1.016-1.524 mm (0.040-0.060
in.). The width of the exhaust seats should be 1.524-
2.032 mm (0.060-0.080 in.).
VALVE SPRINGS
Whenever valves have been removed for inspection,
reconditioning or replacement, valve springs should
be tested. As an example the compression length of
the spring to be tested is 1-5/16 in.. Turn table of
Universal Valve Spring Tester Tool until surface is in
line with the 1-5/16 in. mark on the threaded stud.
Be sure the zero mark is to the front (Fig. 14). Place
spring over stud on the table and lift compressing
lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until
ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this
instant. Multiply this reading by 2. This will give the
spring load at test length. Fractional measurements
are indicated on the table for finer adjustments.
Refer to specifications to obtain specified height and
allowable tensions. Discard the springs that do not
meet specifications.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(2) Compress valve springs using Valve Spring
Compressor Tool MD- 998772A and adapter 6716A.
(3) Remove valve retaining locks, valve spring
retainers, valve stem seals and valve springs.
(4) Before removing valves, remove any burrs from
valve stem lock grooves to prevent damage to the
valve guides. Identify valves to ensure installation in
original location.
CLEANING
Clean valves thoroughly. Discard burned, warped,
or cracked valves.
Remove carbon and varnish deposits from inside of
valve guides with a reliable guide cleaner.
INSPECTION
Measure valve stems for wear. If wear exceeds
0.051 mm (0.002 in.), replace the valve.
Measure valve stem guide clearance as follows:
(1) Install Valve Guide Sleeve Tool C-3973 over
valve stem and install valve (Fig. 15). The special
sleeve places the valve at the correct height for
checking with a dial indicator.
(2) Attach dial indicator Tool C-3339 to cylinder
head and set it at right angles to valve stem being
measured (Fig. 16).
(3) Move valve to and from the indicator. The total
dial indicator reading should not exceed 0.432 mm
(0.017 in.). Ream the guides for valves with oversize
stems if dial indicator reading is excessive or if the
stems are scuffed or scored.
Fig. 14 Testing Valve Spring for Compressed
Length
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - VALVE SPRING TESTER
Fig. 15 Positioning Valve with Tool C-3973
1 - VALVE
2 - SPACER TOOL
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 27
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)
Page 1181 of 2889

INSTALLATION
Only one main bearing should be selectively fitted
while all other main bearing caps are properly tight-
ened. All bearing capbolts removed during service
procedures are to be cleaned and oiled before instal-
lation. DO NOT use a new bearing half with an old
bearing half.
When installing a new upper bearing shell, slightly
chamfer the sharp edges from the plain side.
(1) Start bearing in place, and insert Crankshaft
Main Bearing Remover/Installer Tool C-3059 into oil
hole of crankshaft (Fig. 29).
(2) Slowly rotate crankshaft counterclockwise slid-
ing the bearing into position. Remove Tool C-3059.
(3) Install the bearing caps. Clean and oil the
bolts. Tighten the capbolts to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
FRONT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft rear seal is a two piece viton seal.
The crankshaft front seal is a one piece viton seal
with a steel housing. The front seal is located in the
engine front cover. One part of the two piece rear
seal is located in a slot in the number four (4) crank-
shaft main bore, the second part of the two piece seal
is located in the number four (4) main bearing cap.
OPERATION
The crankshaft seals prevent oil from leaking from
around the crankshaft, either from the rear of the
engine or from the engine front cover.
REMOVAL
The oil seal can be replaced without removing the
timing chain cover, provided that the cover is not
misaligned.
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(3) If front seal is suspected of leaking, check front
oil seal alignment to crankshaft. The seal installa-
tion/alignment Tool 6635, should fit with minimum
interference. If tool does not fit, the cover must be
removed and installed properly.
(4) Place a suitable tool behind the lips of the oil
seal to pry the oil seal outward. Be careful not to
damage the crankshaft seal bore of cover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place the smaller diameter of the oil seal over
Front Oil Seal Installation Tool 6635 (Fig. 30). Seat
the oil seal in the groove of the tool.
(2) Position the seal and tool onto the crankshaft
(Fig. 31).
(3) Using the vibration damper bolt, tighten the
bolt to draw the seal into position on the crankshaft
(Fig. 32).
(4) Remove the vibration damper bolt and seal
installation tool.
(5) Inspect the seal flange on the vibration
damper.
(6) Install the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(7) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft rear seal is a two piece viton seal.
The crankshaft front seal is a one piece viton seal
with a steel housing. The front seal is located in the
engine front cover. One part of the two piece rear
seal is located in a slot in the number four (4) crank-
shaft main bore, the second part of the two piece seal
is located in the number four (4) main bearing cap.
OPERATION
The crankshaft seals prevent oil from leaking from
around the crankshaft, either from the rear of the
engine or from the engine front cover.
Fig. 30 Placing Oil Seal on Installation Tool 6635
1 - CRANKSHAFT FRONT OIL SEAL
2 - INSTALL THIS END INTO SPECIAL TOOL 6635
9 - 34 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS (Continued)
Page 1182 of 2889

REMOVAL
The service seal is a two piece, Viton seal. The
upper seal half can be installed with crankshaftremoved from engine or with crankshaft installed.
When a new upper seal is installed, install a new
lower seal. The lower seal half can be installed only
with the rear main bearing cap removed.
UPPER SEAL ÐCRANKSHAFT REMOVED
(1) Remove the crankshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT - REMOVAL). Dis-
card the old upper seal.
UPPER SEALÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED
(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap. Remove
and discard the old lower oil seal.
(4) Carefully remove and discard the old upper oil
seal.
LOWER SEAL
(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap and discard
the old lower seal.
INSTALLATION
The service seal is a two piece, Viton seal. The
upper seal half can be installed with crankshaft
removed from engine or with crankshaft installed.
When a new upper seal is installed, install a new
lower seal. The lower seal half can be installed only
with the rear main bearing cap removed.
UPPER SEAL ÐCRANKSHAFT REMOVED
(1) Clean the cylinder block rear cap mating sur-
face. Be sure the seal groove is free of debris. Check
for burrs at the oil hole on the cylinder block mating
surface to rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil.
(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with
the white paint facing toward the rear of the engine.
(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 33). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
Fig. 31 Position Tool and Seal onto Crankshaft
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6635
2 - OIL SEAL
3 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
Fig. 32 Installing Oil Seal
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6635
2 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 35
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)
Page 1183 of 2889

ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(8) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.
(9) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main
bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(11) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig.
34). Apply enough sealant so that a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(12) Install new front crankshaft oil seal (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - FRONT - INSTALLATION).
(13) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
UPPER SEALÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED
(1) Clean the cylinder block mating surfaces before
oil seal installation. Check for burrs at the oil hole on
the cylinder block mating surface to rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil. To allow ease of installation of the seal, loosen at
least the two main bearing caps forward of the rear
bearing cap.(3) Rotate the new upper seal into the cylinder
block, being careful not to shave or cut the outer sur-
face of the seal. To ensure proper installation, use the
installation tool provided with the kit. Install the
new seal with the white paint facing toward the rear
of the engine.
(4) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing toward
the rear of the engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 33). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application. Be sure the white paint faces
toward the rear of the engine.
(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.
(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten ALL cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(9) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap-to-block and oil pan sealing (Fig.
34). Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
Fig. 33 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap
1 - MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT SLOTS
2 - MOPARTGASKET MAKER (OR EQUIVALENT)
3 - CAP ALIGNMENT SLOT
4 - REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
Fig. 34 Apply Sealant to Bearing Cap-to-Block Joint
1 - MOPARTGEN II SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT
NOZZLE TIP
2 - SEALANT APPLIED
3 - CYLINDER BLOCK
4 - REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
9 - 36 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)
Page 1185 of 2889

HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (CAM IN
BLOCK)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐHYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in thetappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 38).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch)
diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tap-
pet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal
position.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7) Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push
rod.
(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the
base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2
seconds.
(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require
9 - 38 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE