check engine light DODGE RAM 2001 Service Manual PDF

²0.254 mm (0.010 inch)
²0.305 mm (0.012 inch)
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL
PUMP - REMOVAL).
(3) Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove
bearing caps one at a time.
(4) Remove upper half of bearing by inserting
Crankshaft Main Bearing Remover/Installer Tool
C-3059 into the oil hole of crankshaft (Fig. 27).
(5) Slowly rotate crankshaft clockwise, forcing out
upper half of bearing shell.
INSTALLATION
Only one main bearing should be selectively fitted
while all other main bearing caps are properly tight-
ened. All bearing capbolts removed during service
procedures are to be cleaned and oiled before instal-
lation.
When installing a new upper bearing shell, slightly
chamfer the sharp edges from the plain side.
(1) Start bearing in place, and insert Crankshaft
Main Bearing Remover/Installer Tool C-3059 into oil
hole of crankshaft (Fig. 27).
(2) Slowly rotate crankshaft counterclockwise slid-
ing the bearing into position. Remove Tool C-3059.
(3) Install the bearing caps. Clean and oil the
bolts. Tighten the capbolts to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(6) Start engine check for leaks.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
FRONT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft rear seal is a two piece viton seal.
The crankshaft front seal is a one piece viton seal
with a steel housing. The front seal is located in the
engine front cover. One part of the two piece rear
seal is located in a slot in the number four (4) crank-
shaft main bore, the second part of the two piece seal
is located in the number four (4) main bearing cap.
OPERATION
The crankshaft seals prevent oil from leaking from
around the crankshaft, either from the rear of the
engine or from the engine front cover.
REMOVAL
The oil seal can be replaced without removing the
timing chain cover, provided that the cover is not
misaligned.
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(3) If front seal is suspected of leaking, check front
oil seal alignment to crankshaft. The seal installa-
tion/alignment Tool 6635, should fit with minimum
interference. If tool does not fit, the cover must be
removed and installed properly.
Fig. 26 Main Bearing
Fig. 27 Upper Main Bearing Removal and
Installation with Tool C-3059
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
2 - BEARING
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
4 - BEARING
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L 9 - 147
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS (Continued)

REMOVAL
The service seal is a two piece, Viton seal. The
upper seal half can be installed with crankshaft
removed from engine or with crankshaft installed.
When a new upper seal is installed, install a new
lower seal. The lower seal half can be installed only
with the rear main bearing cap removed.
UPPER SEAL ÐCRANKSHAFT REMOVED
(1) Remove the crankshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT - REMOVAL). Dis-
card the old upper seal.
UPPER SEALÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED
(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap. Remove
and discard the old lower oil seal.
(4) Carefully remove and discard the old upper oil
seal.
LOWER SEAL
(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap and discard
the old lower seal.
INSTALLATION
The service seal is a two piece, Viton seal. The
upper seal half can be installed with crankshaft
removed from engine or with crankshaft installed.
When a new upper seal is installed, install a new
lower seal. The lower seal half can be installed only
with the rear main bearing cap removed.
UPPER SEAL ÐCRANKSHAFT REMOVED
(1) Clean the cylinder block rear cap mating sur-
face. Be sure the seal groove is free of debris. Check
for burrs at the oil hole on the cylinder block mating
surface to rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil.
(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with
the white paint facing toward the rear of the engine.
(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear mainbearing cap (Fig. 31). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(8) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.
(9) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main
bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(11) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig.
32). Apply enough sealant so that a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(12) Install new front crankshaft oil seal (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - FRONT - INSTALLATION).
(13)
Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
UPPER SEALÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED
(1) Clean the cylinder block mating surfaces before
oil seal installation. Check for burrs at the oil hole on
the cylinder block mating surface to rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil. To allow ease of installation of the seal, loosen at
least the two main bearing caps forward of the rear
bearing cap.
Fig. 31 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap
1 - MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT SLOTS
2 - MOPARTGASKET MAKER (OR EQUIVALENT)
3 - CAP ALIGNMENT SLOT
4 - REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L 9 - 149
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is the
case, noise may be dampened by applying side thrust
on the valve spring. If noise is not appreciably
reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the tappet.
Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod
ends for wear.
(3)Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive
leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger
partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tap-
pet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tap-
pet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles
wedged between the plunger and the tappet body. This
will cause the plunger to stick in the down position.
This heavy click will be accompanied by excessive clear-
ance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve
closes. In either case, tappet assembly should be
removed for inspection and cleaning.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 36).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1)
Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch) diame-
ter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tappet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal
position.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7)
Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push rod.
(8)Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the base
of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2 seconds.
(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with
leak-down time interval not within this specification.
REMOVAL
(1)Remove the air cleaner assembly and air in-let
hose.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove rocker assembly and push rods. Iden-
tify push rods to ensure installation in original loca-
tions.
(4) Remove intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove yoke retainer and aligning yokes.
(6) Slide Hydraulic Tappet Remover/Installer Tool
C-4129-A through opening in cylinder head and seat
tool firmly in the head of tappet.
(7) Pull tappet out of bore with a twisting motion.
If all tappets are to be removed, identify tappets to
ensure installation in original location.
(8) If the tappet or bore in cylinder block is scored,
scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to
next oversize. Replace with oversize tappet.
CLEANING
Clean tappet with a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot
water and blow dry with a clean shop rag or com-
pressed air.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate tappets.
Fig. 36 Leak-Down Tester
1 - POINTER
2 - WEIGHTED ARM
3 - RAM
4 - CUP
5 - HANDLE
6 - PUSH ROD
9 - 152 ENGINE 5.9LBR/BE
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL
LEAKS
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.
(5) If the oil leak source is not positively identified
at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(7) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.
(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL
PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit.
(2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292. Start engine and record pressure. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐENGINE OIL
OIL LEVEL INDICATOR (DIPSTICK)
The engine oil level indicator is located at the right
front of the engine, left of the generator on 3.9L
engines (Fig. 50).
CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
oil foaming and oil pressure loss can result.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
Fig. 50 Oil Level Indicator Location
1 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
2 - ENGINE OIL FILL CAP
3 - DIPSTICK
4 - ENGINE OIL FILTER
5 - FILTER BOSS
9 - 160 ENGINE 5.9LBR/BE
LUBRICATION (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
(1)Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for
this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce taper
and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuffing,
scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will clean
up a bore and maintain the required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4)
A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch
angle. The number of up and down strokes per minute
can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É angle.
Faster up and down strokes increase the crosshatch
angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐFORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS & SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 180 ENGINE 8.0LBR/BE
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)

NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 36).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch)
diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tap-
pet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal
position.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7) Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push
rod.
(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the
base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2
seconds.(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require
20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with
leak-down time interval not within this specification.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove the air cleaner.
(3) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove rocker arm assembly and push rods
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER
ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL). Identify
push rods to ensure installation in original location.
(5) Remove upper and lower intake manifold
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANI-
FOLD - REMOVAL).
(6) Cut the cylinder head gasket for accessibility if
the end tappets are to be removed.
(7) Remove yoke retainer spider and tappet align-
ing yokes (Fig. 37).
(8) Pull tappet out of bore with a twisting motion.
If all tappets are to be removed, identify tappets to
ensure installation in original location.
(9) If the tappet or bore in cylinder block is scored,
scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to
next oversize. Replace with oversize tappet.
(10) Check camshaft lobes for abnormal wear.
Fig. 36 Leak-Down Tester
1 - POINTER
2 - WEIGHTED ARM
3 - RAM
4 - CUP
5 - HANDLE
6 - PUSH ROD
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 207
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (Continued)

TORY.. To correctly select the proper size piston, a
cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in .00019
increments is required.Piston installation into the
cylinder bore require slightly more pressure than
that required for non-coated pistons. The bonded
coating on the piston will give the appearance of a
line-to-line fit with the cylinder bore.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine from the vehicle (Refer to 9
- ENGINE - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pan and oil pump pick-up tube
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reli-
able ridge reamer before removing pistons from cyl-
inder block. Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered
during this operation.(5) Be sure the connecting rod and connecting rod
cap are identified with the cylinder number. Remove
connecting rod cap. Install connecting rod bolt guide
set on connecting rod bolts.
(6) Pistons and connecting rods must be removed
from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and
connecting rod assemblies, rotate crankshaft center
the connecting rod in the cylinder bore and at BDC.
Be careful not to nick crankshaft journals. DO
NOT try to remove black coating on skirt. This
is the dry film lubricant.
(7) After removal, install bearing cap on the mat-
ing rod.
CLEANING
Clean the piston and connecting rod assembly
using a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Check the connecting rod journal for excessive
wear, taper and scoring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bend-
ing.
Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape
before it is fitted into the cylinder bore (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECT-
ING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 38 Piston and Connecting RodÐ8.0L Engine
1 - FRONT I.D. TOWARDS THIS SIDE
2 - ORIENTATION BUTTON TOWARDS REAR
(R.H. ONLY)
2, 4, 6, 8, 10
3 - ORIENTATION BUTTON TOWARDS FRONT
(L.H. ONLY)
1, 3, 5, 7, 9
Fig. 39 Bore Gauge
1 - BORE GAUGE
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - 2-5/16 in.
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 209
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the camshaft
lobes, cylinder walls, and piston pins.
The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly
from the main oil gallery. The camshaft bearings
receive oil from the main bearing galleries. The front
camshaft bearing journal passes oil through the cam-
shaft sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to
the oil pan under the No. 1 main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged
pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve
tappets, which pass oil through hollow push rods to a
hole in the corresponding rocker arm. Oil from the
rocker arm lubricates the valve train components.
The oil then passes down through the push rod guide
holes and the oil drain-back passages in the cylinder
head, past the valve tappet area, and then returns to
the oil pan (Fig. 52).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL
LEAKS
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.(5) If the oil leak source is not positively identified
at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(7) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.
(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL
PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit.
(2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292. Start engine and record pressure. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 215
LUBRICATION (Continued)

INSPECTION
Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for stripped or
damaged threads. Repair as necessary.
Inspect oil pan mounting flange for bends or distor-
tion. Straighten flange, if necessary.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 5/16x11/2
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier
installation and removal with a screwdriver (Fig. 57).
(2) Install the dowels in the cylinder block at the
four corners.
(3) Apply small amount of MopartSilicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent at the split lines.
The split lines are between the cylinder block, the
timing chain cover and the rear crankshaft seal
assembly (Fig. 56).After the sealant is applied
you have 3 minutes to install the gasket and oil
pan.
(4) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block.
(5) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket. The engine may have to be slightly raised
on 2WD vehicles.
(6) Install the oil pan bolts (Fig. 58). Tighten the
bolts to as shown in Oil Pan Bolts Torque Chart.
(7) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining 5/16
inch oil pan bolts. Torque these bolts as shown in Oil
Pan Bolts Torque Chart.
(8) Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install the engine to transmission strut.
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(12) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
(13) Start engine and check for leaks.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the relief valve plug, gasket, spring
and valve (Fig. 59). Discard the gasket.
(3) Remove mounting screws and oil pump cover
(Fig. 60).
(4) Remove oil pump inner and outer rotors (Fig.
60).
Fig. 57 Fabrication of Alignment Dowels
1 - 5/16º X 1óº BOLT
2 - DOWEL
3 - SLOT
Fig. 58 Oil Pan Bolt Location
1 - OIL PAN
2 - OIL FILTER
3 - STUD BOLTS
4 - DRAIN PLUG
Fig. 59 Oil Pressure Relief Valve
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - OIL PUMP RELIEF VALVE
3 - SPRING
4 - GASKET
5 - PLUG
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 219
OIL PAN (Continued)

(3) Lightly lubricate head bolts with engine oil and
install. Using the sequence shown in (Fig. 30),
tighten bolts in the following steps:
(a) Torque bolts to 80 N´m (59 ft. lbs.)
(b) Torque bolts to 105 N´m (77 ft. lbs.)
(c) Re-check all bolts to 105 N´m (77 ft. lbs.)
(d) Tighten all bolts an additional ò turn (90É)
(4) Connect fuel return line at rear of head (Fig.
24). Install both sealing washers and torque banjo
bolt to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
(5)
Install push rods into their original locations (Fig.
31).Verify that they are seated in the tappets
.
(6) Lubricate valve stem tips and install the cross-
heads in their original locations.
(7)
Lubricate the rocker arms and pedestals and
install them in their original locations (Fig. 32). Install
the bolts and torque them to 36 N´m (27 ft. lbs.).
(8) Verify that the valve lash settings are main-
tained (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/IN-
TAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(9) Install cylinder head cover (Fig. 33) (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).(10) Connect the IAT and MAP sensor connectors.
(11) Install the fuel filter canister assembly and
torque mounting bolts to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
(12) Connect the lift pump to fuel filter low pres-
sure line. Torque fittings to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
(13) Connect the Water-in-Fuel and Fuel Heater
Element connectors at the filter assembly.
(14) Remove the engine lift bracket at rear of cyl-
inder head.
(15)Install the high pressure fuel lines (Fig.
18) (Fig. 19) as follows:
(a) Lubricate the threads (both ends) of the high
pressure line nuts with diesel fuel or engine oil.
(b) Install the rear line bundle (cyls. #3, 5, and
6), and tighten the threads at the head and pump
by hand.
(c) Torque the connections at the cylinder head
first. Torque connections to 38 N´m (28 ft. lbs.).
(d) Torque the line connections at the injection
pump to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 28 Inspecting Push Rod for Cracks
Fig. 29 Inspecting Push Rod for Flatness
Fig. 30 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Sequence
Fig. 31 Push Rod Installation
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 251
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)