light DODGE RAM 2002 Service Repair Manual

mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 40É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L 9 - 11
ENGINE 5.9L (Continued)

(15) Remove exhaust manifolds (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/EXHAUST MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(16) Remove rocker arm assemblies and push rods.
Identify to ensure installation in original locations.
(17) Remove the head bolts from each cylinder
head and remove cylinder heads. Discard the cylin-
der head gasket.
(18) Remove spark plugs.
CLEANING
Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder
heads.
Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket surfaces
using a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect all surfaces with a straightedge if there is
any reason to suspect leakage. If out-of-flatness
exceeds 0.00075mm/mm (0.0001in/in.) times the span
length in any direction, either replace head or lightly
machine the head surface.
FOR EXAMPLE:ÐA 305 mm (12 in.) span is
0.102 mm (0.004 in.) out-of-flat. The allowable out-of-
flat is 305 x 0.00075 (12 x 0.00075) equals 0.23 mm
(0.009 in.). This amount of out-of-flat is acceptable.
The cylinder head surface finish should be
1.78-3.00 microns (70-125 microinches).
Inspect push rods. Replace worn or bent rods.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylin-
der heads.
(2) Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket sur-
faces using a suitable solvent.
(3) Position new cylinder head gaskets onto the
cylinder block.
(4) Position cylinder heads onto head gaskets and
cylinder block.
(5) Starting at top center, tighten all cylinder head
bolts, in sequence (Fig. 6).
CAUTION: When tightening the rocker arm bolts,
make sure the piston in that cylinder is NOT at
TDC. Contact between the valves and piston could
occur.
(6) Install push rods and rocker arm assemblies in
their original position. Tighten the bolts to 28 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Install the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION) and throttle body assembly.
(8) Install exhaust manifolds (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/EXHAUST MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).(9) If required, adjust spark plugs to specifications.
Install the plugs and tighten to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(10) Install coil wire.
(11) Connect heat indicator sending unit wire.
(12) Connect the heater hoses and bypass hose.
(13) Install distributor cap and wires.
(14) Connect the accelerator linkage and if so
equipped, the speed control and transmission kick-
down cables.
(15) Install the fuel supply line (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CON-
NECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Install the generator and drive belt (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION). Tighten generator mounting bolt
to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the adjusting
strap bolt to 23 N´m (200 in. lbs.) torque.
(17) Install the intake manifold-to-generator
bracket support rod. Tighten the bolts.
(18) Place the cylinder head cover gaskets in posi-
tion and install cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(19) Install closed crankcase ventilation system.
(20) Connect the evaporation control system.
(21) Install the air cleaner.
(22) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(23) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(24) Start engine check for leaks.
Fig. 6 Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening Sequence
9 - 22 ENGINE 5.9LBR/BE
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

ing stones. A true and complete surface must be
obtained.
(2) Measure the concentricity of valve seat using a
dial indicator. Total runout should not exceed 0.051
mm (0.002 in.) total indicator reading.
(3) Inspect the valve seat with Prussian blue, to
determine where the valve contacts the seat. To do
this, coat valve seat LIGHTLY with Prussian blue
then set valve in place. Rotate the valve with light
pressure. If the blue is transferred to the center ofvalve face, contact is satisfactory. If the blue is trans-
ferred to the top edge of valve face, lower valve seat
with a 15É stone. If the blue is transferred to bottom
edge of valve face raise valve seat with a 60É stone.
(4) When seat is properly positioned the width of
intake seats should be 1.016-1.524 mm (0.040-0.060
in.). The width of the exhaust seats should be 1.524-
2.032 mm (0.060-0.080 in.).
VALVE SPRINGS
Whenever valves have been removed for inspection,
reconditioning or replacement, valve springs should
be tested. As an example the compression length of
the spring to be tested is 1-5/16 in.. Turn table of
Universal Valve Spring Tester Tool until surface is in
line with the 1-5/16 in. mark on the threaded stud.
Be sure the zero mark is to the front (Fig. 13). Place
spring over stud on the table and lift compressing
lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until
ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this
instant. Multiply this reading by 2. This will give the
spring load at test length. Fractional measurements
are indicated on the table for finer adjustments.
Refer to specifications to obtain specified height and
allowable tensions. Discard the springs that do not
meet specifications.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(2) Compress valve springs using Valve Spring
Compressor Tool MD- 998772A and adapter 6716A.
(3) Remove valve retaining locks, valve spring
retainers, valve stem seals and valve springs.
(4) Before removing valves, remove any burrs from
valve stem lock grooves to prevent damage to the
Fig. 11 Intake and Exhaust Valves
1 - MARGIN
2 - VALVE SPRING RETAINER LOCK GROOVE
3 - STEM
4-FACE
Fig. 12 Refacing Valve Seats
1-STONE
2 - PILOT
3 - VALVE SEAT
4 - SHROUD
Fig. 13 Testing Valve Spring for Compressed
Length
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - VALVE SPRING TESTER
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L 9 - 25
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be done in vehicle. How-
ever the transmission must be removed first.
(1) If crankshaft is to be removed while engine is
in vehicle remove the transmission. Refer to 21 -
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE.
(2) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL
PUMP - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(6) Identify rod bearing caps before removal.
Remove rod bearing caps with bearings.
CAUTION: Support crankshaft before removing
main bearing caps. failure to do so will allow the
crankshaft to fall damaging the crankshaft.
(7) Using a suitable jack, support the crankshaft.
(8) Identify main bearing caps before removal.
Remove main bearing caps and bearings one at a
time.
(9) Lower the crankshaft out of the block.
(10) Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil
seals.
(11) Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil
seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean Gasket Maker residue and sealant from
the cylinder block and rear cap mating surface. Dothis before applying the MopartGasket Maker and
the installation of rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil.
(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with
the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 23). DO NOT over apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(8) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than 2 times for proper engagement.
(9) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main
bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(12) Install the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(13) Position the connecting rods onto the crank-
shaft and install the rod bearing caps. Tighten the
nuts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 22 Crankshaft with Journal Size Identification
Fig. 23 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap
1 - MOPARTGASKET MAKER 5 mm (0.20 IN.) ON BOTH SIDES
OF REAR MAIN CAP
9 - 30 ENGINE 5.9LBR/BE
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

INSTALLATION
Only one main bearing should be selectively fitted
while all other main bearing caps are properly tight-
ened. All bearing capbolts removed during service
procedures are to be cleaned and oiled before instal-
lation.
When installing a new upper bearing shell, slightly
chamfer the sharp edges from the plain side.
(1) Start bearing in place, and insert Crankshaft
Main Bearing Remover/Installer Tool C-3059 into oil
hole of crankshaft (Fig. 27).
(2) Slowly rotate crankshaft counterclockwise slid-
ing the bearing into position. Remove Tool C-3059.(3) Install the bearing caps. Clean and oil the
bolts. Tighten the capbolts to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(6) Start engine check for leaks.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
FRONT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft front seal is a one piece viton seal
with a steel housing. The front seal is located in the
engine front cover.
OPERATION
The crankshaft seals prevent oil from leaking from
around the crankshaft, either from the rear of the
engine or from the engine front cover.
REMOVAL
The oil seal can be replaced without removing the
timing chain cover, provided that the cover is not
misaligned.
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(3) If front seal is suspected of leaking, check front
oil seal alignment to crankshaft. The seal installa-
tion/alignment Tool 6635, should fit with minimum
interference. If tool does not fit, the cover must be
removed and installed properly.
(4) Place a suitable tool behind the lips of the oil
seal to pry the oil seal outward. Be careful not to
damage the crankshaft seal bore of cover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place the smaller diameter of the oil seal over
Front Oil Seal Installation Tool 6635 (Fig. 28). Seat
the oil seal in the groove of the tool.
(2) Position the seal and tool onto the crankshaft
(Fig. 29).
(3) Using the vibration damper bolt, tighten the
bolt to draw the seal into position on the crankshaft
(Fig. 30).
(4) Remove the vibration damper bolt and seal
installation tool.
(5) Inspect the seal flange on the vibration
damper.
(6) Install the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
Fig. 26 Main Bearing
Fig. 27 Upper Main Bearing Removal and
Installation with Tool C-3059
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
2 - BEARING
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3059
4 - BEARING
9 - 32 ENGINE 5.9LBR/BE
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS (Continued)

LOWER SEAL
(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap and discard
the old lower seal.
INSTALLATION
The service seal is a two piece, Viton seal. The
upper seal half can be installed with crankshaft
removed from engine or with crankshaft installed.
When a new upper seal is installed, install a new
lower seal. The lower seal half can be installed only
with the rear main bearing cap removed.
UPPER SEAL ÐCRANKSHAFT REMOVED
(1) Clean the cylinder block rear cap mating sur-
face. Be sure the seal groove is free of debris. Check
for burrs at the oil hole on the cylinder block mating
surface to rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil.
(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with
the white paint facing toward the rear of the engine.
(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 31). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(8) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.
(9) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main
bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(11) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig.
32). Apply enough sealant so that a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(12) Install new front crankshaft oil seal (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - FRONT - INSTALLATION).(13) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
UPPER SEALÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED
(1) Clean the cylinder block mating surfaces before
oil seal installation. Check for burrs at the oil hole on
the cylinder block mating surface to rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil. To allow ease of installation of the seal, loosen at
least the two main bearing caps forward of the rear
bearing cap.
Fig. 31 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap
1 - MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT SLOTS
2 - MOPARTGASKET MAKER (OR EQUIVALENT)
3 - CAP ALIGNMENT SLOT
4 - REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
Fig. 32 Apply Sealant to Bearing Cap-to-Block Joint
1 - MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT NOZZLE
TIP
2 - SEALANT APPLIED
3 - CYLINDER BLOCK
4 - REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
9 - 34 ENGINE 5.9LBR/BE
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

(3) Rotate the new upper seal into the cylinder
block, being careful not to shave or cut the outer sur-
face of the seal. To ensure proper installation, use the
installation tool provided with the kit. Install the
new seal with the white paint facing toward the rear
of the engine.
(4) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing toward
the rear of the engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 31). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application. Be sure the white paint faces
toward the rear of the engine.
(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.
(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten ALL cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(9) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap-to-block and oil pan sealing (Fig.
32). Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
LOWER SEAL
(1) Clean the rear main cap mating surfaces
including the oil pan gasket groove.
(2) Carefully install a new upper seal. Refer to
UPPER SEALÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED .
(3) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(4) Install a new lower seal in bearing cap with
the white paint facing the rear of engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 31). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten the cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(9) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing.
Apply enough sealant so that a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
DISTRIBUTOR BUSHING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove distributor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/DISTRIBUTOR - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(3) Insert Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing Puller
Tool C-3052 into old bushing and thread down until a
tight fit is obtained (Fig. 33).
(4) Hold puller screw and tighten puller nut until
bushing is removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide new bushing over burnishing end of Dis-
tributor Drive Shaft Bushing Driver/Burnisher Tool
C-3053. Insert the tool and bushing into the bore.
(2) Drive bushing and tool into position, using a
hammer (Fig. 34).
(3) As the burnisher is pulled through the bushing,
the bushing is expanded tight in the block and bur-
nished to correct size (Fig. 35).DO NOT ream this
bushing.
Fig. 33 Distributor Driveshaft Bushing Removal
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3052
2 - BUSHING
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L 9 - 35
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

CAUTION: This procedure MUST be followed when
installing a new bushing or seizure to shaft may
occur.
(4) Install the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the distributor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/DISTRIBUTOR -
INSTALLATION).
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐHYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3)
Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused
by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign par-
ticles wedged between the plunger and the tappet
body. This will cause the plunger to stick in the down
position. This heavy click will be accompanied by
excessive clearance between the valve stem and rocker
arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet assembly
should be removed for inspection and cleaning.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
Fig. 34 Distributor Driveshaft Bushing Installation
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3053
2 - BUSHING
Fig. 35 Burnishing Distributor Driveshaft Bushing
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3053
2 - BUSHING
9 - 36 ENGINE 5.9LBR/BE
DISTRIBUTOR BUSHING (Continued)

(1) Position the vibration damper onto the crank-
shaft.
(2) Place installing tool, part of Puller Tool Set
C-3688 in position and press the vibration damper
onto the crankshaft (Fig. 44).
(3) Install the crankshaft bolt and washer. Tighten
the bolt to 244 N´m (180 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Position the fan shroud and install the bolts.
Tighten the retainer bolts to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.)
torque.
(6) Install the cooling fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
INSTALLATION).
(7) Connect the battery negative cable.
FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Position fan to ensure clearance for radiator
top tank and hose.
CAUTION: DO NOT lift the engine by the intake
manifold.
(3) Install engine support/lifting fixture.
(4) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(5) Lift the engine SLIGHTLY and remove the
thru-bolt and nut (Fig. 45) .
(6) Remove engine support bracket/cushion bolts
(Fig. 45) . Remove the support bracket/cushion and
heat shields.
Fig. 42 Proper Ring Installation
1 - OIL RING SPACER GAP
2 - SECOND COMPRESSION RING GAP OIL RING RAIL GAP
(TOP)
3 - OIL RING RAIL GAP (BOTTOM)
4 - TOP COMPRESSION RING GAP
Fig. 43 Vibration Damper Removal
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8513 INSERT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 1026
Fig. 44 Vibration Damper Installation
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3688
Fig. 45 Engine Front Mounts
1 - ENGINE MOUNT HEAT SHIELD
2 - THRU-BOLT
3 - RESTRICTION PADS
4 - ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET/CUSHION
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L 9 - 41
VIBRATION DAMPER (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) With engine raised SLIGHTLY, position the
engine support bracket/cushion and heat shields to
the block. Install new bolts and tighten to 81 N´m (60
ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the through-bolt into the engine support
bracket/cushion.
(3) Lower engine with support/lifting fixture while
guiding the engine bracket/cushion and through-bolt
into support cushion brackets (Fig. 46) .
(4) Install through-bolt nuts and tighten the nuts
to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove lifting fixture.
REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Position a transmission jack in place.
(3) Remove support cushion stud nuts (Fig. 47).
(4) Raise rear of transmission and engine
SLIGHTLY.
(5) Remove the bolts holding the support cushion
to the transmission support bracket. Remove the sup-
port cushion.
(6) If necessary, remove the bolts holding the
transmission support bracket to the transmission.
INSTALLATION
(1) If removed, position the transmission support
bracket to the transmission. Install new attaching
bolts and tighten to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Position support cushion to transmission sup-
port bracket. Install stud nuts and tighten to 41 N´m
(30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Using the transmission jack, lower the trans-
mission and support cushion onto the crossmember
(Fig. 47) .
(4) Install the support cushion bolts and tighten to
41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Remove the transmission jack.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
A gear-type positive displacement pump (Fig. 48) is
mounted at the underside of the rear main bearing
cap. The pump uses a pick-up tube and screen
assembly to gather engine oil from the oil pan.
OPERATION
The pump draws oil through the screen and inlet
tube from the sump at the rear of the oil pan. The oil
is driven between the drive and idler gears and
pump body, then forced through the outlet to the
block. An oil gallery in the block channels the oil to
the inlet side of the full flow oil filter. After passing
through the filter element, the oil passes from the
center outlet of the filter through an oil gallery that
channels the oil up to the main gallery, which
extends the entire length on the right side of the
block. The oil then goes down to the No. 1 main bear-
ing, back up to the left side of the block, and into the
oil gallery on the left side of the engine.
Galleries extend downward from the main oil gal-
lery to the upper shell of each main bearing. The
crankshaft is drilled internally to pass oil from the
main bearing journals to the connecting rod journals.
Each connecting rod bearing has half a hole in it, oil
passes through the hole when the rods rotate and the
hole lines up, oil is then thrown off as the rod
rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the camshaft
lobes, distributor drive gear, cylinder walls, and pis-
ton pins.
The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly
from the main oil gallery. The camshaft bearings
receive oil from the main bearing galleries. The front
camshaft bearing journal passes oil through the cam-
shaft sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to
the oil pan under the No. 1 main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged
pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve
Fig. 46 Positioning Engine Front Mounts
1 - ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET/CUSHION
2 - SUPPORT CUSHION BRACKET
9 - 42 ENGINE 5.9LBR/BE
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)