light DODGE RAM 2002 Service Owner's Manual

DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove fill hole plug from the differential
housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove axle shafts.
(6) Note the orientation of the installation refer-
ence letters stamped on the bearing caps and hous-
ing machined sealing surface (Fig. 27).
(7) Remove the differential bearing caps.
(8) Position Spreader W-129-B with the tool dowel
pins seated in the locating holes (Fig. 28).
(9) Install the hold down clamps and tighten the
tool turnbuckle finger-tight.
(10) Install a Pilot Stud C-3288-B at the left side
of the differential housing. Attach dial indicator to
housing pilot stud. Load the indicator plunger
against the opposite side of the housing (Fig. 28) and
zero the indicator.
(11) Spread the housing enough to remove the case
from the housing. Measure the distance with the dial
indicator (Fig. 28).CAUTION: Never spread the housing over 0.50 mm
(0.020 in). If housing is over-spread, it could be dis-
torted or damaged.
(12) Remove the dial indicator.
(13) Pry the differential case loose from the hous-
ing. To prevent damage, pivot on housing with the
end of the pry bar against spreader (Fig. 29).
(14) Remove the case from housing. Tag bearing
cups to indicate their location.
Fig. 26 Pinon Rotating Torque
1 -TORQUE WRENCH
2 - PINION YOKE
Fig. 27 BEARING CAP IDENTIFICATION
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
Fig. 28 SPREAD DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
1 - SPREADER
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
4 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
5 - PILOT STUD
3 - 96 REAR AXLE - 267RBIBR/BE
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove roll-pin holding mate shaft in housing.
(2) Remove pinion gear mate shaft (Fig. 30).
(3) Rotate differential side gears and remove pin-
ion mate gears and thrust washers (Fig. 31).(4) Remove differential side gears and thrust
washers.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Install differential side gears and thrust wash-
ers.
(2) Install pinion mate gears and thrust washers.
(3) Install pinion gear mate shaft.
(4) Align hole in the pinion gear mate shaft with
hole in the differential case.
(5) Install and seat pinion mate shaft roll-pin in
the differential case and mate shaft with a punch
and hammer (Fig. 32). Peen the edge of the roll-pin
hole in the differential case slightly in two places
180É apart.
(6) Lubricate all differential components with
hypoid gear lubricant.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If replacement differential bearings or differ-
ential case are being installed, differential side
bearing shim requirements may change. Refer to
Adjustments (Differential Bearing Preload and Gear
Backlash) procedures to determine proper shim
selection.
(1) Position Spreader W-129-B with the tool dowel
pins seated in the locating holes. Install the hold
Fig. 29 DIFFERENTIAL REMOVAL
1 - DIFFERENTIAL
2-PRYBAR
Fig. 30 PINION MATE SHAFT
1 - PINION MATE GEAR
2 - PINION MATE SHAFT
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - DRIFT
Fig. 31 Pinion Mate/Side Gear
1 - THRUST WASHER
2 - SIDE GEAR
3 - PINION MATE GEAR
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 267RBI 3 - 97
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(3) Install front pinion bearing cup with Installer
D-146 and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 53) and verify cup is
seated.
(4) Install pinion front bearing and oil slinger, if
equipped. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on
the lip of pinion seal.
(5) Install anewpinion seal with an appropriate
installer (Fig. 54).
NOTE: Pinion depth shims are placed between the
rear pinion bearing cone and pinion gear to achieve
proper ring and pinion gear mesh. If ring and pinion
gears are reused, the pinion depth shim should not
require replacement. If the ring and pinion gears are
replaced refer to Adjustments (Pinion Gear Depth )
to select the proper thickness shim.
(6) Place the proper thickness pinion depth shim
on the pinion gear.(7) Install rear bearing and oil slinger, if equipped
on the pinion gear with Installer C-3095-A and a
press (Fig. 55).
(8) Install original solid shims on pinion gears.
(9) Install yoke with Installer C-3718 and Yoke
Holder 6719A (Fig. 56).
(10) Install the yoke washer andnewnut on the
pinion gear. Tighten the nut to 298-380 N´m (220-280
ft. lbs.).
(11) Check bearing rotating torque with an inch
pound torque wrench (Fig. 57). Pinion rotating torque
should be:
²Original Bearings: 1 to 3 N´m (10 to 20 in. lbs.).
²New Bearings: 2.3 to 5.1 N´m (20 to 45 in. lbs.).
(12) If rotating torque is less than the desired
rotating torque, remove the pinion yoke and decrease
the thickness of the solid shim pack if greater
increase shim pack. Changing the shim pack thick-
ness by 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) will change the rotating
torque approximately 0.9 N´m (8 in. lbs.).
Fig. 53 FRONT PINION BEARING CUP
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 54 PINION SEAL
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
Fig. 55 REAR PINION BEARING
1 - PRESS
2 - INSTALLER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - PINION BEARING
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 267RBI 3 - 105
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snap-
ping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise issimilar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
Fig. 3 TRAC-LOK LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
1 - CASE
2 - RING GEAR
3 - DRIVE PINION
4 - PINION GEAR
5 - MATE SHAFT
6 - CLUTCH PACK
7 - SIDE GEAR
8 - CLUTCH PACK
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 109
REAR AXLE - 286RBI (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the seal contact surface in the housing
bore.
(2) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal.
(3) Installnewpinion shaft seal with an appropri-
ate Installer.
(4) Position pinion yoke on the end of the shaft
with the reference marks aligned.
(5) Install the yoke with Installer D-191 and Yoke
Holder 6719A (Fig. 23).
(6) Install the pinion yoke washer and nut.
(7) Hold pinion yoke with Yoke Holder 6719A and
tighten shaft nut to 597 N´m (440 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 24).
Rotate pinion shaft several revolutions to ensure the
bearing rollers are seated.
(8) Rotate pinion shaft using an inch pound torque
wrench. Rotating resistance torque should be equal
to the reading recorded, plus a small amount for the
drag the new seal will have (Fig. 25).
NOTE: The bearing rotating torque should be con-
stant during a complete revolution of the pinion. If
the rotating torque varies, this indicates a binding
condition.
(9) Install propeller shaft with the installation ref-
erence marks aligned.
(10) Install the brake calipers.(11) Add gear lubricant to the differential housing,
if necessary.
Fig. 23 Pinion Yoke Installation
1 - INSTALLER
2 - YOKE HOLDER
Fig. 24 Tightening Pinion Shaft Nut
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - YOKE HOLDER
3 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 25 Pinion Rotating Torque
1 -TORQUE WRENCH
2 - PINION YOKE
3 - 124 REAR AXLE - 286RBIBR/BE
PINION SEAL (Continued)

(12) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
the vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove fill hole plug from the differential
housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove axle shafts.
(6) Note the orientation of the installation refer-
ence letters stamped on the bearing caps and hous-
ing machined sealing surface (Fig. 26).
(7) Remove the differential bearing caps.
(8) Position Spreader W-129-B with the tool dowel
pins seated in the locating holes (Fig. 27).
(9) Install the hold down clamps and tighten the
tool turnbuckle finger-tight.
(10) Install a Pilot Stud C-3288-B at the left side
of the differential housing. Attach dial indicator to
housing pilot stud. Load the indicator plunger
against the opposite side of the housing (Fig. 27) and
zero the indicator.
(11) Spread the housing enough to remove the case
from the housing. Measure the distance with the dial
indicator (Fig. 27).
CAUTION: Never spread the housing over 0.50 mm
(0.020 in). If housing is over-spread, it could be dis-
torted or damaged.(12) Remove the dial indicator.
(13) Pry the differential case loose from the hous-
ing. To prevent damage, pivot on housing with the
end of the pry bar against spreader (Fig. 28).
Fig. 26 BEARING CAP IDENTIFICATION
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
Fig. 27 SPREAD DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
1 - SPREADER
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
4 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
5 - PILOT STUD
Fig. 28 DIFFERENTIAL REMOVAL
1 - DIFFERENTIAL
2-PRYBAR
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 125
PINION SEAL (Continued)

(14) Remove the case from housing. Tag bearing
cups to indicate their location.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove roll-pin holding mate shaft in housing.
(2) Remove pinion gear mate shaft (Fig. 29).
(3) Rotate differential side gears and remove pin-
ion mate gears and thrust washers (Fig. 30).
(4) Remove differential side gears and thrust
washers.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Install differential side gears and thrust wash-
ers.
(2) Install pinion mate gears and thrust washers.
(3) Install pinion gear mate shaft.
(4) Align hole in the pinion gear mate shaft with
hole in the differential case.
(5) Install and seat pinion mate shaft roll-pin in
the differential case and mate shaft with a punch
and hammer (Fig. 31). Peen the edge of the roll-pin
hole in the differential case slightly in two places
180É apart.
(6) Lubricate all differential components with
hypoid gear lubricant.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If replacement differential bearings or differ-
ential case are being installed, differential side
bearing shim requirements may change. Refer to
Adjustments (Differential Bearing Preload and GearBacklash) procedures to determine proper shim
selection.
Fig. 29 PINION MATE SHAFT
1 - PINION MATE GEAR
2 - PINION MATE SHAFT
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - DRIFT
Fig. 30 Pinion Mate/Side Gear
1 - THRUST WASHER
2 - SIDE GEAR
3 - PINION MATE GEAR
Fig. 31 Pinion Mate Shaft Roll-Pin
1 - PUNCH
2 - PINION MATE SHAFT
3 - MATE SHAFT LOCKPIN
3 - 126 REAR AXLE - 286RBIBR/BE
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(4) Install pinion front bearing and oil slinger, if
equipped. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on
the lip of pinion seal.
(5) Installnewpinion seal with an appropriate
installer (Fig. 51).
NOTE: Pinion depth shims are placed between the
rear pinion bearing cone and pinion gear to achieve
proper ring and pinion gear mesh. If ring and piniongears are reused, the pinion depth shim should not
require replacement or adjustment. If the ring and
pinion gears are replaced refer to Adjustments to
select the proper thickness shim.
(6) Install rear bearing on the pinion gear with
Installer D-389 and a press (Fig. 52).
(7) Install original solid shims on pinion gears.
(8) Install yoke with Installer C-3718 and Yoke
Holder 6719A (Fig. 53).
(9) Install yoke washer andnewnut on the pinion
gear. Tighten the nut to 637 N´m (470 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 49 REAR PINION BEARING CUP
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 50 FRONT PINION BEARING CUP
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 51 PINION SEAL
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
Fig. 52 REAR PINION BEARING
1 - PRESS
2 - INSTALLER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - PINION BEARING
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 133
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn or dam-
aged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS/EBD activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables
²Loose/worn wheel bearing
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²Caliper binding on damaged or missing anti-rat-
tle clips or bushings
²Loose caliper mounting
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates
²Mis-assembled components²Long booster output rod
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Damaged anti-rattle clips
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
5 - 6 BRAKES - BASEBR/BE
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4)
Open up bleeder, then have a helper press down
the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the
bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and
free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)