length DODGE RAM 2002 Service Manual PDF

ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT
Check linkage adjustment by starting engine in
PARK and NEUTRAL. Adjustment is acceptable if
the engine starts in only these two positions. Adjust-
ment is incorrect if the engine starts in one position
but not both positions
If the engine starts in any other position, or if the
engine will not start in any position, the park/neutral
switch is probably faulty.
LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
Check condition of the shift linkage (Fig. 222). Do
not attempt adjustment if any component is loose,
worn, or bent. Replace any suspect components.
Replace the grommet securing the shift rod or
torque rod in place if either rod was removed from
the grommet. Remove the old grommet as necessary
and use suitable pliers to install the new grommet.
(1) Shift transmission into PARK.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Loosen lock bolt in front shift rod adjusting
swivel (Fig. 222).
(4) Ensure that the shift rod slides freely in the
swivel. Lube rod and swivel as necessary.
(5) Move transmission shift lever fully rearward to
the Park detent.
(6) Center adjusting swivel on shift rod.
(7) Tighten swivel lock bolt to 10 N´m (90 in. lbs.).
(8) Lower vehicle and verify proper adjustment.
SOLENOID
DESCRIPTION
The typical electrical solenoid used in automotive
applications is a linear actuator. It is a device that
produces motion in a straight line. This straight line
motion can be either forward or backward in direc-
tion, and short or long distance.
A solenoid is an electromechanical device that uses
a magnetic force to perform work. It consists of a coil
of wire, wrapped around a magnetic core made from
steel or iron, and a spring loaded, movable plunger,
which performs the work, or straight line motion.
The solenoids used in transmission applications
are attached to valves which can be classified asnor-
mally openornormally closed. Thenormally
opensolenoid valve is defined as a valve which
allows hydraulic flow when no current or voltage is
applied to the solenoid. Thenormally closedsole-
noid valve is defined as a valve which does not allow
hydraulic flow when no current or voltage is applied
to the solenoid. These valves perform hydraulic con-
trol functions for the transmission and must there-fore be durable and tolerant of dirt particles. For
these reasons, the valves have hardened steel pop-
pets and ball valves. The solenoids operate the valves
directly, which means that the solenoids must have
very high outputs to close the valves against the siz-
able flow areas and line pressures found in current
transmissions. Fast response time is also necessary
to ensure accurate control of the transmission.
The strength of the magnetic field is the primary
force that determines the speed of operation in a par-
ticular solenoid design. A stronger magnetic field will
cause the plunger to move at a greater speed than a
weaker one. There are basically two ways to increase
the force of the magnetic field:
²Increase the amount of current applied to the
coil or
²Increase the number of turns of wire in the coil.
The most common practice is to increase the num-
ber of turns by using thin wire that can completely
fill the available space within the solenoid housing.
The strength of the spring and the length of the
plunger also contribute to the response speed possi-
ble by a particular solenoid design.
A solenoid can also be described by the method by
which it is controlled. Some of the possibilities
include variable force, pulse-width modulated, con-
stant ON, or duty cycle. The variable force and pulse-
width modulated versions utilize similar methods to
Fig. 222 Linkage Adjustment Components
1 - FRONT SHIFT ROD
2 - TORQUE SHAFT ASSEMBLY
3 - TORQUE SHAFT ARM
4 - ADJUSTING SWIVEL
5 - LOCK BOLT
21 - 380 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 47REBR/BE
SHIFT MECHANISM (Continued)

TORQUE CONVERTER
DRAINBACK VALVE
DESCRIPTION
The drainback valve is located in the transmission
cooler outlet (pressure) line.
OPERATION
The valve prevents fluid from draining from the
converter into the cooler and lines when the vehicle
is shut down for lengthy periods. Production valves
have a hose nipple at one end, while the opposite end
is threaded for a flare fitting. All valves have an
arrow (or similar mark) to indicate direction of flow
through the valve.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TORQUE
CONVERTER DRAINBACK VALVE
The converter drainback check valve is located in
the cooler outlet (pressure) line near the radiator
tank. The valve prevents fluid drainback when the
vehicle is parked for lengthy periods. The valve check
ball is spring loaded and has an opening pressure of
approximately 2 psi.
The valve is serviced as an assembly; it is not
repairable. Do not clean the valve if restricted, or
contaminated by sludge, or debris. If the valve fails,
or if a transmission malfunction occurs that gener-
ates significant amounts of sludge and/or clutch par-ticles and metal shavings, the valve must be
replaced.
The valve must be removed whenever the cooler
and lines are reverse flushed. The valve can be flow
tested when necessary. The procedure is exactly the
same as for flow testing a cooler.
If the valve is restricted, installed backwards, or in
the wrong line, it will cause an overheating condition
and possible transmission failure.
CAUTION: The drainback valve is a one-way flow
device. It must be properly oriented in terms of flow
direction for the cooler to function properly. The
valve must be installed in the pressure line. Other-
wise flow will be blocked and would cause an over-
heating condition and eventual transmission failure.
TRANSMISSION
TEMPERATURE SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
Transmission fluid temperature readings are sup-
plied to the transmission control module by the ther-
mistor (Fig. 238). The temperature readings are used
to control engagement of the fourth gear overdrive
clutch, the converter clutch, and governor pressure.
Normal resistance value for the thermistor at room
temperature is approximately 2000 ohms.
The thermistor is part of the governor pressure
sensor assembly and is immersed in transmission
fluid at all times.
OPERATION
The PCM prevents engagement of the converter
clutch and overdrive clutch, when fluid temperature
is below approximately 10ÉC (50ÉF).
Fig. 237 Typical Method Of Checking Converter
Seating
1 - SCALE
2 - STRAIGHTEDGE
Fig. 238 Governor Pressure Sensor
1 - GOVERNOR BODY
2 - GOVERNOR PRESSURE SENSOR/TRANSMISSION FLUID
TEMPERATURE THERMISTOR
21 - 390 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 47REBR/BE
TORQUE CONVERTER (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
23 - 2 BODYBR/BE
BODY (Continued)

BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during highcross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
BR/BEBODY 23 - 3
BODY (Continued)

DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
APPLIQUE
REMOVAL.............................63
INSTALLATION.........................63
DECALS
REMOVAL.............................64
INSTALLATION.........................64
HANDLE ESCUTCHEON
REMOVAL.............................64
INSTALLATION.........................64
LATCH
REMOVAL.............................65
INSTALLATION.........................65
LATCH HANDLE
REMOVAL.............................66INSTALLATION.........................66
LATCH STRIKER
REMOVAL.............................66
INSTALLATION.........................66
SLAM BUMPER
REMOVAL.............................67
INSTALLATION.........................67
CHECK CABLE
REMOVAL.............................67
INSTALLATION.........................67
TAILGATE
REMOVAL.............................67
INSTALLATION.........................67
APPLIQUE
REMOVAL
(1) Apply a length of masking tape on the body,
parallel to the top edge of the applique to use as a
guide, if necessary.
(2) Warm the tailgate applique and tailgate metal
to approximately 38ÉC (100ÉF) using a suitable heat
lamp or heat gun.
(3) Pull applique from tailgate (Fig. 1).
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove adhesive tape residue from painted
surface of tailgate.
(2) If applique is to be reused, remove tape residue
from applique. Clean back of applique with MOPARt,
Super Kleen solvent or equivalent. Wipe molding dry
with lint free cloth. Apply new body side molding
(two sided adhesive) tape to back of applique.
(3) Clean tailgate surface with MOPARt, Super
Kleen solvent or equivalent. Wipe surface dry with
lint free cloth. An adhesion promoter must be applied
to ensure proper applique adhesion.
(4) Remove protective cover from tape on back of
applique. Apply applique to body below the masking
tape guide (Fig. 1).(5) Remove masking tape guide and heat tailgate
and applique, see step one. Firmly press applique to
tailgate to assure adhesion.
Fig. 1 Tailgate Applique
1 - TAILGATE
2 - TAILGATE
3 - ADHESIVE TAPE
4 - APPLIQUE
BR/BEDECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE 23 - 63

INSTALLATION
(1) Clean body surface with MOPARtSuper Kleen
solvent or equivalent. Wipe surface dry with lint free
cloth.
(2) Apply a length of masking tape on the body,
parallel to the top edge of the molding to use as a
guide, if necessary.
(3) Remove protective cover from tape on back of
molding. Apply molding to body below the masking
tape guide (Fig. 1) and (Fig. 2).
(4) Remove masking tape guide and heat body and
molding, see step one. Firmly press molding to body
surface to assure adhesion.
BODY STRIPES AND DECALS
REMOVAL
(1) Warm the panel to approximately 38ÉC (100ÉF)
using a suitable heat lamp or heat gun.
(2) Peel decal from body panel using an even pres-
sure pull.
(3) Remove adhesive residue from body panel
using a suitable adhesive removing solvent.
INSTALLATION
The painted surface of the body panel to be covered
by a decal must be smooth and completely cured
before decal can be applied. Ripples and feather edg-
ing will read through if surface is not properly pre-
pared. Clean all residue from surface.
(1) Peel paper backing away from decal exposing
adhesive back of decal.
(2) Apply soap solution liberally to adhesive back
of decal.
(3) Apply soap solution liberally to body panel sur-
face.
(4) Place decal into position on body panel (Fig. 3)
. Smooth out wrinkles by pulling lightly on edges of
decal until it lays flat on painted surface.
(5) Push air pockets from under decal to the
perimeter of the panel from the center of the decal
out.
Fig. 1 Body Side Moldings
Fig. 2 Body Side MoldingsÐDual Wheel
BR/BEEXTERIOR 23 - 87
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS (Continued)

(6) Squeegee soap solution and air bubbles from
behind decal from the center of the panel out using a
body putty applicator squeegee.
(7) Apply heat to decal to evaporate residual mois-
ture from edges of decal.
(8) Small air or water bubbles under decal can be
pierced with a pin and smoothed out.
TAPE STRIPE
REMOVAL
(1) If the panel that is being serviced is not going
to be refinished, apply a length of masking tape par-
allel to the edge of the original tape stripe to aid
installation.
(2) Warm the panel to approximately 38ÉC (100ÉF)
using a suitable heat lamp or heat gun.
(3) Peel tape stripe (Fig. 4) from body panel using
an even pressure pull.
(4) Remove adhesive residue from body panel
using a suitable adhesive removing solvent.
Fig. 3 Decals
1 - TAPE STRIPE
Fig. 4 Tape Stripe Overlay
1 - CAB/DOOR TAPE STRIPE
2 - HOOD TAPE STRIPE
23 - 88 EXTERIORBR/BE
BODY STRIPES AND DECALS (Continued)

INSTALLATION
The painted surface of the body panel to be covered
by a tape stripe overlay must be smooth and com-
pletely cured before overlay can be applied. If painted
surface is not smooth, wet sand with 600 grit wet/dry
sand paper until surface is smooth. Ripples and
feather edging will read through overlay if surface is
not properly prepared. Clean all residue from sur-
face.
Installation equipment:
²Pail filled with mild dish soap solution.
²Lint free applicator cloth or sponge.
²Body putty applicator squeegee.
²Heat gun or sun lamp.
²Razor knife.
(1) Spread replacement tape stripe overlay across
a smooth flat work surface, finish side down.
(2) Peel paper backing away from overlay exposing
adhesive back of overlay.
(3) Apply soap solution liberally to adhesive back
of overlay.
(4) Apply soap solution liberally to body panel sur-
face.
(5) Place overlay into position on body panel.
Smooth out wrinkles by pulling lightly on edges of
overlay until it lays flat on painted surface.
(6) Push air pockets from under overlay to the
perimeter of the panel from the center of the overlay
out.
(7) Squeegee soap solution and air bubbles from
behind overlay from the center of the panel out using
a body putty applicator squeegee (Fig. 5).
CAUTION: Do not cut into painted surface of body
panel when trimming overlay to size.
(8) Trim overlay to size using a razor knife. Leave
at least 13 mm (0.5 in.) for edges of doors and open-
ings.
CAUTION: Do not overheat overlay when perform-
ing step 9.
(9) Apply heat to overlay to evaporate residual
moisture from edges of overlay and to allow overlay
to be stretched into concave surfaces.
(10) Edge turn overlay around doors or fenders.
(11) Install exterior trim if necessary.
(12) Small air or water bubbles under overlay can
be pierced with a pin and smoothed out.
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES
REMOVAL
NOTE: Exterior nameplates are attached to body
panels with adhesive tape.
(1) Apply a length of masking tape on the body,
parallel to the top edge of the nameplate to use as a
guide, if necessary.
(2) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
emblem with a heat lamp or gun. Do not exceed 52ÉC
(120ÉF) when heating emblem.
(3) Insert a plastic trim stick or a hard wood
wedge behind the emblem to separate the adhesive
backing from the body.
(4) Clean adhesive residue from body with
MOPARtSuper Clean solvent or equivalent.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove protective cover from adhesive tape on
back of emblem.
(2) Position emblem properly on body (Fig. 6).
(3) Press emblem firmly to body with palm of
hand.
(4) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
emblem with a heat lamp or gun to assure adhesion.
Do not exceed 52ÉC (120ÉF) when heating emblem.
Fig. 5 Tape Stripe Application
1 - SQUEEGEE
2 - CARRIER
3 - BODY PANEL
4 - TAPE STRIPE
BR/BEEXTERIOR 23 - 89
TAPE STRIPE (Continued)

(2) If necessary, apply black-out primer to outer
edge of replacement backlite frame.
(3) If black-out primer was pre-applied on backlite,
clean bonding surface with Isopropyl alcohol and
clean lint free cloth. Allow 3 minutes for drying time.
(4) Apply black-out primer to backlite opening
fence.
(5) Apply a 13 mm (0.5 in.) bead of urethane
around the perimeter of the window frame bonding
surface (Fig. 2).
(6) Set glass on lower fence and move glass for-
ward into opening (Fig. 3).
(7) Firmly push glass against rear window glass
opening fence.
(8) Bend tabs around edges of backlite opening
fence to retain glass.
(9) Clean excess urethane from exterior with
MOPAR, Super Clean or equivalent.
(10) Allow urethane to cure at least 24 hours (full
cure is 72 hours).
(11) Water test to verify repair before returning
vehicle to service.
(12) Install rear closer panel trim. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/REAR CLOSURE PANEL TRIM -
INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the headliner. (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
TERIOR/HEADLINER - INSTALLATION).
BACKLITE LATCH AND
KEEPER
REMOVAL
(1) Disengage latch and keeper.
(2) Remove latch/keeper screws.(3) Separate Latch/keeper from glass panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position Latch/keeper on glass panel.
(2) Install screws. Tighten the screws with 1.5 N´m
(15 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Engage latch and keeper to verify operation.
BACKLITE VENT GLASS
REMOVAL
(1) Close and latch sliding vent glass.
(2) Remove rear closure panel trim, if necessary.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/REAR CLOSURE
PANEL TRIM - REMOVAL).
(3) Grasp end of lower run channel.
(4) Roll corners of lower run channel outward (Fig.
4).
(5) Disengage enough of the lower run channel
from the backlite frame lower rail and firmly pull/
slide lower run channel outward (Fig. 5).
(6) Disengage vent glass from upper run channel.
(7) Separate vent glass from backlite frame.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove excess sealer from backlite frame lower
rail.
(2) Clean bond area with hand scuff pad.
(3) Clean bond area with MopartTar and Oil
Remover or equivalent.
(4) Using a lint free cloth, clean bond area with
50/50 mixture of Isopropyl alcohol and water.
(5) Apply a 0.5 mm bead of pumpable grade butyl
along entire length of the lip retainer in lower run
channel (Fig. 6).
(6) Slide vent glass panels into lower run channel.
Fig. 2 Urethane Adhesive Application
1 - WINDOW FRAME
2 - GLASS
3 - RETAINER TAB
4 - URETHANE ADHESIVE
Fig. 3 Backlite Installation
1 - BACKLITE
23 - 146 STATIONARY GLASSBR/BE
BACKLITE (Continued)

(7) Latch vent glass panels
(8) Insert upper ends of vent glass panels into
upper run channel.
NOTE: Aggressive clamp pressure is required to
lock lower run channel into place.
(9) Position lower run channel on backlite frame
lower rail and roll lower run channel onto backlite
frame rail.
(10) Fill the ends of the run channel with Mopar
GEN II Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equiva-
lent.
(11) Verify window and latch/keeper operation.(12) Install rear closure panel trim. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/REAR CLOSURE PANEL TRIM -
INSTALLATION).
WINDSHIELD
DESCRIPTION
The windshield is attached to the window frame
with urethane adhesive. The urethane adhesive is
applied cold and seals the surface area between the
window opening and the glass. The primer adheres
the urethane adhesive to the windshield.
It is difficult to salvage a windshield during the
removal operation. The windshield is part of the struc-
tural support for the roof. The urethane bonding used to
secure the windshield to the fence is difficult to cut or
clean from any surface. If the moldings are set in ure-
thane, it would also be unlikely they could be salvaged.
Before removing the windshield, check the availability
of the windshield and moldings from the parts supplier.
REMOVAL
(1)Remove inside rear view mirror. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/REAR VIEW MIRROR - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove cowl grill. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTE-
RIOR/COWL GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(3) With doors open, remove windshield molding
(Fig. 7). Pull outward on molding beginning at the
bottom of A-pillars using pliers.
(4) Cut urethane bonding from around windshield
using a suitable sharp cold knife (C-4849). A pneu-
matic cutting device can be used but is not recom-
mended (Fig. 8).
(5) Separate windshield from vehicle.
Fig. 4 Lower Run Channel
1 - SLIDING BACKLITE
2 - LOWER RUN CHANNEL
3 - CAB BACK PANEL
Fig. 5 Lower Run Channel Removal
1 - LATCH/KEEPER
2 - BACK LITE
3 - LOWER RUN CHANNEL
4 - SLIDE OUTWARD
Fig. 6 Glass Panel Installation
1 - INSERT A 0.5mm DIA. BEAD OF PUMPABLE GRADE BUTYL
ALONG THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE LOWER RUN WINDOW
CHANNEL
BR/BESTATIONARY GLASS 23 - 147
BACKLITE VENT GLASS (Continued)