air filter DODGE RAM 2003 Service User Guide
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Page 487 of 2895

REMOVAL
3.7L V-6
Each individual spark plug is located under each
ignition coil. Each individual ignition coil must be
removed to gain access to each spark plug. Refer to
Ignition Coil Removal/Installation.
(1) Remove necessary air filter tubing at throttle
body.
(2) Prior to removing ignition coil, spray com-
pressed air around coil base at cylinder head.
(3) Prior to removing spark plug, spray com-
pressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help
prevent foreign material from entering combustion
chamber.
(4) Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a
quality socket with a rubber or foam insert. Also
check condition of ignition coil o-ring and replace as
necessary.
(5) Inspect spark plug condition. Refer to Diagnos-
tics and Testing - Spark Plug Conditions.
4.7L V-8
Each individual spark plug is located under each
ignition coil. Each individual ignition coil must be
removed to gain access to each spark plug. Refer to
Ignition Coil Removal/Installation.
(1) Remove necessary air filter tubing at throttle
body.
(2) Prior to removing ignition coil, spray com-
pressed air around coil base at cylinder head.
(3) Prior to removing spark plug, spray com-
pressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help
prevent foreign material from entering combustion
chamber.
(4) Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a
quality socket with a rubber or foam insert. Also
check condition of ignition coil o-ring and replace as
necessary.
(5) Inspect spark plug condition. Refer to Diagnos-
tics and Testing - Spark Plug Conditions.
5.7L V-8
Eight of the 16 spark plugs are located under an
ignition coil; the other 8 are not. If spark plug being
removed is under coil, coil must be removed to gain
access to spark plug. Refer to Ignition Coil Removal/
Installation and observe all CAUTIONS and WARN-
INGS.
Before removing or disconnecting any spark plug
cables, note their original position. Remove cables
one-at-a-time. To prevent ignition crossfire, spark
plug cablesMUSTbe placed in cable tray (routing
loom) into their original position. Refer to Spark Plug
Cable Removal for a graphic.Before installing spark plug cables to either the
spark plugs or coils, apply dielectric grease to inside
of boots.
(1) Remove necessary air filter tubing at throttle
body.
(2) Prior to removing ignition coil (if coil removal
is necessary), spray compressed air around coil base
at cylinder head cover.
(3) Prior to removing spark plug, spray com-
pressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help
prevent foreign material from entering combustion
chamber.
(4) Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a
quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
(5) Inspect spark plug condition. Refer to Diagnos-
tics and Testing - Spark Plug Conditions.
5.9L V-8
On 5.9L V-8 engines, spark plug cable heat shields
are pressed into the cylinder head to surround each
cable boot and spark plug (Fig. 49).
(1) Always remove spark plug or ignition coil
cables by grasping at the cable boot (Fig. 50). Turn
the cable boot 1/2 turn and pull straight back in a
steady motion. Never pull directly on the cable.
Internal damage to cable will result.
(2) Prior to removing the spark plug, spray com-
pressed air around the spark plug hole and the area
around the spark plug. This will help prevent foreign
material from entering the combustion chamber.
(3) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket
with a rubber or foam insert.
(4) Inspect the spark plug condition. Refer to Diag-
nostics and Testing - Spark Plug Conditions.
Fig. 49 HEAT SHIELDS - 5.9L V-8
1 - AIR GAP
2 - SPARK PLUG BOOT HEAT SHIELD
8I - 30 IGNITION CONTROLDR
SPARK PLUG (Continued)
Page 681 of 2895

If the control knob is held depressed for more than
about thirty seconds, the FCM will suspend washer
pump/motor operation until the knob is released for
about two seconds, then cycled back to the Wash
position; however, the wipers will continue to operate
for as long as the Wash switch is held closed. The
FCM monitors the changing state of the wiper motor
park switch through a hard wired wiper park switch
sense circuit input. This input allows the FCM to
count the number of wipe cycles that occur after the
Wash switch is released, and to determine the proper
interval at which to de-energize the wiper on/off
relay to complete the wipe-after-wash mode cycle.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIPER &
WASHER SYSTEM
If the wiper motor operates, but the wipers do not
move on the windshield, replace the faulty wiper
module. If the washer pump/motor operates, but no
washer fluid is dispensed on the glass; or, if the wip-
ers operate, but chatter, lift, or do not clear the glass,
clean and inspect the wiper and washer system com-
ponents as required. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
WIPERS/WASHERS - CLEANING) and (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS - INSPECTION).
For diagnosis and testing of the multi-function
switch (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHT-
ING - EXTERIOR/MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Refer to the appropri-
ate wiring information. The wiring information
includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector
repair procedures, details of wire harness routing
and retention, connector pin-out information and
location views for the various wire harness connec-
tors, splices and grounds.
The hard wired circuits and components of the
wiper and washer system may be diagnosed and
tested using conventional diagnostic tools and proce-
dures. However, conventional diagnostic methods
may not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the
instrument cluster, the Front Control Module (FCM),
or the electronic message inputs to or outputs from
the instrument cluster and the FCM that control the
various wiper and washer system operating modes.
The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to
diagnose the instrument cluster, the FCM, or the
electronic message inputs and outputs related to the
various wiper and washer system operating modes
requires the use of a DRBIIItscan tool. Refer to the
appropriate diagnostic information.
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, DISABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT
SYSTEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING
WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, DRIVER AIRBAG,
PASSENGER AIRBAG, SEAT BELT TENSIONER,SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL
COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCON-
NECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE
(GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR
THE SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE
PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE.
THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE
SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM. FAILURE TO
TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD
RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT
AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
CLEANING - WIPER & WASHER SYSTEM
WIPER SYSTEM
The squeegees of wiper blades exposed to the ele-
ments for a long time tend to lose their wiping effec-
tiveness. Periodic cleaning of the squeegees is
suggested to remove any deposits of salt or road film.
The wiper blades, arms, and windshield glass should
only be cleaned using a sponge or soft cloth and
windshield washer fluid, a mild detergent, or a non-
abrasive cleaner. If the wiper blades continue to
leave streaks, smears, hazing, or beading on the
glass after thorough cleaning of the squeegees and
the glass, the entire wiper blade assembly must be
replaced.
CAUTION: Protect the rubber squeegees of the
wiper blades from any petroleum-based cleaners,
solvents, or contaminants. These products can rap-
idly deteriorate the rubber squeegees.
WASHER SYSTEM
If the washer system is contaminated with foreign
material, drain the washer reservoir by removing the
washer pump/motor from the reservoir. Clean foreign
material from the inside of the washer pump/motor
inlet filter screen and the washer reservoir using
clean washer fluid, a mild detergent, or a non-abra-
sive cleaner. Flush foreign material from the washer
system plumbing by first disconnecting the washer
hoses from the washer nozzles, then running the
washer pump/motor to run clean washer fluid or
water through the system. Plugged or restricted
washer nozzles should be carefully back-flushed
using compressed air. If the washer nozzle obstruc-
tion cannot be cleared, replace the washer nozzle.
CAUTION: Never introduce petroleum-based clean-
ers, solvents, or contaminants into the washer sys-
tem. These products can rapidly deteriorate the
rubber seals and hoses of the washer system, as
well as the rubber squeegees of the wiper blades.
8R - 6 WIPERS/WASHERSDR
WIPERS/WASHERS (Continued)
Page 688 of 2895

(4) Reinstall the washer hose for the washer noz-
zle into its routing clips on the underside of the cowl
plenum cover/grille panel.
(5) Reinstall the cowl plenum cover/grille panel
over the cowl plenum. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/COWL GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(6) Close and latch the hood.
(7) Reinstall both wiper arms onto the wiper piv-
ots. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/
WIPER ARM - INSTALLATION).
WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
The washer pump/motor unit (Fig. 12) is located on
the rearward facing surface of the washer reservoir,
in the right (except V-10 or diesel engine) or left
(V-10 and diesel engine only) front corner of the
engine compartment. A small permanently lubricated
and sealed electric motor is coupled to the rotor-type
washer pump. A seal flange with a barbed inlet nip-
ple on the pump housing passes through a rubber
grommet seal installed in a dedicated mounting hole
of the washer reservoir. When the pump is installed
in the reservoir a barbed outlet nipple on the pumphousing connects the unit to the washer system
through a short washer reservoir hose.
The washer pump/motor unit is retained on the
reservoir by the interference fit between the barbed
pump inlet nipple and the grommet seal, which is a
light press fit. The top of the washer pump is also
secured to the washer reservoir by the use of a snap
post on the motor housing and a snap post receptacle
molded into the reservoir that allows for mounting of
the washer pump without the use of fasteners. An
integral connector receptacle on the top of the motor
housing connects the unit to the vehicle electrical
system. The washer pump/motor unit cannot be
repaired. If faulty or damaged, the entire washer
pump/motor unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
The washer pump/motor unit features a small
Direct Current (DC) electric motor. The motor is con-
nected to the vehicle electrical system through a sin-
gle take out and two-cavity connector of the right
(except V-10 or diesel engine) or left (V-10 or diesel
engine only) headlamp and dash wire harness. The
motor is grounded at all times through another take
out of the right (except V-10 or diesel engine) or left
(V-10 or diesel engine only) headlamp and dash wire
harness. On models without the V-10 or diesel engine
a single eyelet terminal connector is secured by a nut
to a ground stud located on the right front fender
inner shield in the engine compartment. On models
with a V-10 or diesel engine an eyelet terminal con-
nector is secured by a ground screw to the left front
fender inner shield in the engine compartment. The
motor receives battery current on a washer pump/
motor control circuit.
The washer pump/motor control circuit is energized
through a high side driver within the Front Control
Module (FCM) whenever the FCM receives an elec-
tronic message requesting washer system operation
from the instrument cluster over the Programmable
Communications Interface (PCI) data bus. The
instrument cluster monitors a resistor multiplexed
hard wired input from the momentary washer switch
contacts within the multi-function switch on the
steering column to determine when it should issue
the electronic message requesting washer system
operation.
Washer fluid is gravity-fed from the washer reser-
voir to the inlet side of the washer pump. When the
pump motor is energized, the motor spins the rotor
within the washer pump. The spinning pump rotor
pressurizes the washer fluid and forces it through
the pump outlet nipple, the washer plumbing, and
the washer nozzles onto the windshield glass.
The washer pump/motor unit may be diagnosed
using conventional diagnostic tools and methods.
Fig. 12 Washer Pump/Motor
1 - MOTOR
2 - SNAP POST
3 - CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE
4 - PUMP
5 - OUTLET NIPPLE
6 - INLET NIPPLE
7 - FILTER SCREEN
DRWIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 13
WASHER NOZZLE (Continued)
Page 1253 of 2895

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING)ÐPERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)ÐMECHANICAL for
possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following diagnosis:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING).
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
6. Incorrect right bank cam timing. 6. Refer to engine timing in this
section.
7. Dirt or water in fuel system. 7. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
8.Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 8.Repair or replace as necessary.
9. Faulty cam or crank sensor 9. Refer to Ignition system.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Vacuum leak. 1. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
2. Faulty crank position sensor 2. Replace crank position sensor.
3. Faulty coil. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
9 - 4 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)
Page 1254 of 2895

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
4. Incorrect cam timing. 4. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
1. ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Dirt or water in fuel system. 2. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
3. Faulty fuel pump. 3. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL PUMP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
4. Blown cylinder head gasket. 4. Replace cylinder head gasket.
5. Low compression. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING), repair
as necessary.
6. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
8. Faulty coil. 8. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
9. Incorrect cam timing. 9. Refer to Engine TIming in this
section.
1. ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
gapped.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Dirt in fuel system. 2. Clean fuel system.
3. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 3. Replcae as necessary.
4. Faulty coil. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
1. ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH
SPEED1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
gapped.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Faulty coil. 2. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
3. Dirt or water in fuel system. 3. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 5
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)
Page 1256 of 2895

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - LUBRICATION
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL LEAKS 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. 1.
(a) Misaligned or damaged. (a) Replace as necessary.
(b) Loose fasteners, broken or
porous metal parts.(b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or
replace metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal 2. Replace as necessary (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR -
REMOVAL).
3. Crankshaft seal flange.
Scratched, nicked or grooved.3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
4. Oil pan flange cracked. 4. Replace oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL).
5. Timing chain cover seal,
damaged or misaligned.5. Replace seal (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT
- REMOVAL).
6. Scratched or damaged vibration
damper hub.6. Polish or replace damper.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check and correct oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Replace sending unit (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL
PRESSURE SENSOR/SWITCH -
REMOVAL).
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pump and bearing
clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Replace oil filter (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL FILTER
- REMOVAL).
5. Worn oil pump. 5. Replace oil pump (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP
- REMOVAL).
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil and filter.
7. Excessive bearing clearance. 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 8. Replace oil pump (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP
- REMOVAL).
9. Oil pick up tube loose, damaged
or clogged.9. Replace as necessary.
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 7
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)
Page 1269 of 2895

AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
REMOVAL
Filter Element Only
Housing removal is not necessary for element (fil-
ter) replacement.
(1) Loosen clamp (Fig. 3) and disconnect air duct
at air cleaner cover.
(2) Pry over 4 spring clips (Fig. 3) from housing
cover (spring clips retain cover to housing).
(3) Release housing cover from locating tabs on
housing (Fig. 3) and remove cover.
(4) Remove air cleaner element (filter) from hous-
ing.
(5) Clean inside of housing before replacing ele-
ment.
Housing Assembly
(1) Loosen clamp (Fig. 3) and disconnect air duct
at air cleaner cover.
(2) Lift entire housing assembly from 4 locating
pins (Fig. 4).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install filter element into housing.
(2) Position housing cover into housing locating
tabs (Fig. 3).(3) Pry up 4 spring clips (Fig. 3) and lock cover to
housing.
(4) Install air duct to air cleaner cover and tighten
hose clamp to 3 N´m (30 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) If any other hose clamps were removed from
air intake system, tighten them to 3.4 N´m (30 in.
lbs.) torque.
(6) If any bolts were removed from air resonator
housing or air intake tubing, tighten them to 4.5 N´m
(40 in. lbs.) torque.
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER HEAD
GASKET
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between
adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the
adjacent water jacket.
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
²Loss of engine power
²Engine misfiring
²Poor fuel economy
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
Fig. 3 AIR CLEANER HOUSING COVER
1 - CLAMP
2 - AIR DUCT
3 - AIR CLEANER COVER
4 - LOCATING TABS
5 - CLIPS (4)
Fig. 4 AIR CLEANER HOUSING
1 - AIR CLEANER HOUSING ASSEMBLY
2 - LOCATING PINS (4)
9 - 20 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
Page 1284 of 2895

(8) Starting at the outside working inward, loosen
the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts 1/2 turn at
a time. Repeat until all load is off the bearing caps.
CAUTION: DO NOT STAMP OR STRIKE THE CAM-
SHAFT BEARING CAPS. SEVERE DAMAGE WILL
OCCUR TO THE BEARING CAPS.
NOTE: When the camshaft is removed the rocker
arms may slide downward, mark the rocker arms
before removing camshaft.
(9) Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the
camshaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate camshaft journals with clean engine
oil.
NOTE: Position the right side camshaft so that the
camshaft sprocket dowel is near the 10 o'clock
position, This will place the camshaft at the neutral
position easing the installation of the camshaft
bearing caps.
(2) Position the camshaft into the cylinder head.
(3) Install the camshaft bearing caps, hand tighten
the retaining bolts.
NOTE: Caps should be installed so that the
stamped numbers on the caps are in numerical
order, ( 1 thru 4 ) from the front to the rear of the
engine. All caps should be installed so that the
stamped arrows on the caps point toward the front
of the engine.
(4) Working in 1/2 turn increments, tighten the
bearing cap retaining bolts starting with the middle
cap working outward (Fig. 27).
(5) Torque the camshaft bearing cap retaining
bolts to 11 N´m (100 in. lbs.).
(6) Position the camshaft drive gear into the tim-
ing chain aligning the V6 mark between the two
marked chain links (Two links marked during remov-
al).
(7) Using Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench,
rotate the camshaft until the camshaft sprocket
dowel is aligned with the slot in the camshaft
sprocket. Install the sprocket onto the camshaft.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft
sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can cause bolt over-
torque resulting in bolt failure.
(8) Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket bolt,
then install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and
hand tighten.(9) Remove timing chain wedge special tool 8379.
(10) Using Special Tool 6958 spanner wrench with
adapter pins 8346, torque the camshaft sprocket
retaining bolt to 122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.).
(11) Install the camshaft position sensor.
(12) Install the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(3) Drain cooling system, below the level of the
heater hoses(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(4) Remove accessory drive belt(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOV-
AL).
(5) Remove air conditioning compressor retaining
bolts and move compressor to the left.
(6) Remove heater hoses.
(7) Disconnect injector and ignition coil connectors.
(8) Disconnect and remove positive crankcase ven-
tilation (PCV) hose.
(9) Remove oil fill tube.
(10) Un-clip injector and ignition coil harness and
move away from cylinder head cover.
(11) Remove right rear breather tube and filter
assembly.
Fig. 27 CAMSHAFT BEARING CAPS TIGHTENING
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 35
CAMSHAFT(S) (Continued)
Page 1285 of 2895

(12) Remove cylinder head cover retaining bolts.
(13) Remove cylinder head cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the
cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers
may occur.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no
cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.
(1) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing sur-
faces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
(2) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double
ended studs to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs).
(3) Install right rear breather tube and filter
assembly.
(4) Connect injector, ignition coil electrical connec-
tors and harness retaining clips.
(5) Install the oil fill tube.
(6) Install PCV hose.
(7) Install heater hoses.
(8) Install air conditioning compressor retaining
bolts.
(9) Install accessory drive belt(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
(10) Fill Cooling system(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(12) Connect battery negative cable.
ROCKER ARM
DESCRIPTION
The rocker arms are steel stampings with an inte-
gral roller bearing. The rocker arms incorporate a 2.8
mm (0.11 inch) oil hole in the lash adjuster socket for
roller and camshaft lubrication.
REMOVAL
NOTE: Disconnect the battery negative cable to pre-
vent accidental starter engagement.
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) For rocker arm removal on cylinder #4, Rotate
the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at BDC intake
stroke.(3) For rocker arm removal on cylinder #1, Rotate
the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at BDC combus-
tion stroke.
(4) For rocker arm removal on cylinders #3 and #5,
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
exhaust stroke.
(5) For rocker arm removal on cylinders #2 and #6,
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
ignition stroke.
(6) Using special tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover,
press downward on the valve spring, remove rocker
arm (Fig. 28).
VALVE GUIDE SEALS
DESCRIPTION
The valve guide seals are made of rubber and
incorporate an integral steel valve spring seat. The
integral garter spring maintains consistent lubrica-
tion control to the valve stems.
VALVE SPRINGS
DESCRIPTION
The valve springs are made from high strength
chrome silicon steel. There are different springs for
intake and exhaust applications. The valve spring
seat is integral with the valve stem seal, which is a
positive type seal to control lubrication.
Fig. 28 Rocker Arm - Removal
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8516
9 - 36 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) (Continued)
Page 1287 of 2895

(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 29).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 30).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
Fig. 29 CYLINDER BORE CROSSHATCH PATTERN
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Fig. 30 BORE GAUGE-TYPICAL
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
9 - 38 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)