gas type DODGE RAM 2003 Service Service Manual

The engine serial number is stamped into a
machined pad located on the left, front corner of the
cylinder block. When component part replacement is
necessary, use the engine type and serial number for
reference (Fig. 2).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.These malfunctions may be classified as either
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise), or performance
(e.g., engine idles rough and stalls).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING - Preformance) or (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAG-
NOSIS AND TESTING - Mechanical). Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM for fuel system diagnosis.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can-
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
²Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
²Lash Adjuster (Tappet) Noise Diagnosis (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/HYDRAULIC LIFT-
ERS (CAM IN BLOCK) - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING)
²Engine Oil Leak Inspection (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING)
Fig. 2 Engine Identification Number
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 225
ENGINE - 5.9L (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier than using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
9 - 232 ENGINE - 5.9LDR
ENGINE - 5.9L (Continued)

(19) Install the distributor cap and wiring.
(20) Install the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).
(21) Using a new gasket, install throttle body
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/
THROTTLE BODY - INSTALLATION).
(22) Connect the throttle linkage (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/THROTTLE
CONTROL CABLE - INSTALLATION).
(23) Install the air cleaner resonator and duct
work..
(24) Install the generator and wire connections
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/GENERA-
TOR - INSTALLATION).
(25) Install a/c compressor and lines (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C
COMPRESSOR - INSTALLATION).
(26) Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(27) Install upper radiator support crossmember.
(28) Install radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION).
(29) Connect the radiator lower hose.
(30) Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to
the radiator.
(31) Install the fan shroud.
(32) Install the fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(33) Connect the radiator upper hose.
(34) Install the washer bottle.
(35) Install the transmission oil cooler (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/TRANSMISSION/TRANS COOLER -
INSTALLATION).
(36) Connect the transmission cooler lines.
(37) If equipped, install the condenser (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
A/C CONDENSER - INSTALLATION).
(38) Evacuate and charge the air conditioning sys-
tem, if equipped (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(39) Add engine oil to crankcase (Refer to LUBRI-
CATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - SPEC-
IFICATIONS).
(40) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(41) Connect battery negative cable.
(42) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(43) Road test vehicle.SPECIFICATIONS
5.9L ENGINE
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Engine Type 90É V-8 OHV
Bore and Stroke 101.6 x 90.9 mm
(4.00 x 3.58 in.)
Displacement 5.9L (360 c.i.)
Compression Ratio 9.1:1
Firing Order 1±8±4±3±6±5±7±2
Lubrication Pressure Feed ± Full
Flow
Filtration
Cooling System Liquid Cooled ± Forced
Circulation
Cylinder Block Cast Iron
Cylinder Head Cast Iron
Crankshaft Nodular Iron
Camshaft Nodular Cast Iron
Pistons Aluminum Alloy w/strut
Connecting Rods Forged Steel
Compression Pressure 689.5 kPa (100 psi)
(Min.)
CAMSHAFT
Bearing Diameter
No. 1 50.800 ± 50.825 mm
(2.000 ± 2.001 in.)
No. 2 50.394 ± 50.419 mm
(1.984 ± 1.985 in.)
No. 3 50.013 ± 50.038 mm
(1.969 ± 1.970 in.)
No. 4 49.606 ± 49.632 mm
(1.953 ± 1.954 in.)
No. 5 39.688 ± 39.713 mm
(1.5625 ± 1.5635 in.)
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 235
ENGINE - 5.9L (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft (Fig. 23) is of a cast nodular steel
splayed type design, with five main bearing journal-
s.The crankshaft is located at the bottom of the
engine block and is held in place with five main bear-
ing caps. The number 3 counterweight is the location
for journal size identification.
OPERATION
The crankshaft transfers force generated by com-
bustion within the cylinder bores to the flywheel or
flexplate.
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be done in vehicle. How-
ever the transmission must be removed first.
(1) If crankshaft is to be removed while engine is
in vehicle remove the transmission. Refer to 21 -
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE.
(2) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL
PUMP - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(6) Identify rod bearing caps before removal.
Remove rod bearing caps with bearings.CAUTION: Support crankshaft before removing
main bearing caps. failure to do so will allow the
crankshaft to fall damaging the crankshaft.
(7) Using a suitable jack, support the crankshaft.
(8) Identify main bearing caps before removal.
Remove main bearing caps and bearings one at a
time.
(9) Lower the crankshaft out of the block.
(10) Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil
seals.
(11) Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil
seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean Gasket Maker residue and sealant from
the cylinder block and rear cap mating surface. Do
this before applying the MopartGasket Maker and
the installation of rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil.
(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with
the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 24). DO NOT over apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
Fig. 23 Crankshaft with Journal Size Identification
Fig. 24 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap
1 - MOPARTGASKET MAKER 5 mm (0.20 IN.) ON BOTH SIDES
OF REAR MAIN CAP
9 - 252 ENGINE - 5.9LDR

(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in the Maintenance Schedule. This infor-
mation can be found in the owner's manual.
TO CHANGE ENGINE OIL
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist vehicle.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug and
gasket if damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7) Change oil filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL FILTER - REMOVAL).
(8) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/
FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION) and amount of
engine oil (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTE-
NANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(9) Install oil fill cap.
(10) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(11) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-
flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Cor-
poration recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove
it from the cylinder block oil filter boss (Fig. 54).
(4) When filter separates from adapter nipple, tip
gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove fil-
ter from vehicle.
(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface (Fig. 55) of oil and grime.
(6) Install new filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL FILTER - INSTALLATION).
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil or chassis grease.(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 55) hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/
OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Drain engine oil.
(5) Remove exhaust pipe.
(6) Remove left engine to transmission strut.
(7) Loosen the right side engine support bracket
cushion thru-bolt nut and raise the engine slightly.
Remove oil pan by sliding backward and out.
(8) Remove the one-piece gasket.
CLEANING
Clean the block and pan gasket surfaces.
Fig. 54 Oil Filter RemovalÐTypical
1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER
2 - OIL FILTER WRENCH
Fig. 55 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
9 - 270 ENGINE - 5.9LDR
OIL (Continued)

equipped, the speed control and transmission kick-
down cables.
(16) Install the fuel lines (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FIT-
TING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(17) Install the accessory drive bracket and A/C
compressor (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COMPRESSOR -
INSTALLATION).
(18) Install the generator and drive belt (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION). Tighten generator mounting bolt
to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(19) Install the air cleaner.
(20) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(21) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds (Fig. 73) are constructed of
cast iron and are LOG type with balanced flow. One
exhaust manifold is attached to each cylinder head.
OPERATION
The exhaust manifolds collect the engine exhaust
exiting the combustion chambers, then channels the
exhaust gases to the exhaust pipes attached to the
manifolds.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the
exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the exhaust heat shields.(6) Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching
manifold to cylinder head.
(7) Remove manifold from the cylinder head.
CLEANING
Clean mating surfaces on cylinder head and mani-
fold. Wash with solvent and blow dry with com-
pressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect manifold for cracks.
Inspect mating surfaces of manifold for flatness
with a straight edge. Gasket surfaces must be flat
within 0.2 mm per 300 mm (0.008 inch per foot).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when
removing the engine exhaust manifold, install new
studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends.
Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precau-
tion is not taken.
(1) Position the engine exhaust manifolds on the
two studs located on the cylinder head. Install coni-
cal washers and nuts on these studs (Fig. 74).
(2) Install two bolts and conical washers at the
inner ends of the engine exhaust manifold outboard
arms. Install two bolts WITHOUT washers on the
center arm of engine exhaust manifold (Fig. 74).
Starting at the center arm and working outward,
tighten the bolts and nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
Fig. 72 Intake Manifold Bolt Tightening SequenceFig. 73 Exhaust ManifoldsÐV-8 Gas Engines Typical
1 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD (LEFT)
2 - BOLTS & WASHERS
3 - NUTS & WASHERS
4 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD (RIGHT)
5 - BOLTS & WASHERS
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 277
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
LUBRICATING OIL LOSS 1. External leaks. 1. Visually inspect for oil leaks. Repair as
required.
2. Crankcase being overfilled. 2. Verify that the correct dipstick is being
used.
3. Incorrect oil specification or
viscosity.3. (a) Make sure the correct oil is being
used (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
(b) Look for reduced viscosity from dilution
with fuel.
(c) Review/reduce oil change intervals.
4. Oil cooler leak 4. Check and replace the oil cooler.
5. High blow-by forcing oil out the
breather.5. Check the breather tube area for signs of
oil loss. Perform the required repairs.
6. Turbocharger leaking oil to the air
intake.6. Inspect the air ducts for evidence of oil
transfer. Repair as required.
COMPRESSION KNOCKS 1. Air in the fuel system. 1. Identify location of air leak and repair. Do
not bleed high pressure fuel system.
2. Poor quality fuel or water/gasoline
contaminated fuel.2. Verify by operating from a temporary
tank with good fuel. Clean and flush the
fuel tank. Replace fuel/water separator filter.
3. Engine overloaded. 3. Verify the engine load rating is not being
exceeded.
4. Improperly operating injectors. 5. Check and replace misfiring/inoperative
injectors.
EXCESSIVE VIBRATION 1. Loose or broken engine mounts. 1. Replace engine mounts.
2. Damaged fan or improperly
operating accessories.2. Check and replace the vibrating
components.
3. Improperly operating vibration
damper3. Inspect/replace vibration damper.
4. Improperly operating electronically
controlled viscous fan drive.4. Inspect/replace fan drive.
5. Worn or damaged generator
bearing.5. Check/replace generator.
6. Flywheel housing misaligned. 6. Check/correct flywheel alignment.
7. Loose or broken power
component.7. Inspect the crankshaft and rods for
damage that causes an unbalance
condition. Repair/replace as required.
8. Worn or unbalanced driveline
components.8. Check/repair driveline components.
EXCESSIVE ENGINE
NOISES1. Drive belt squeal, insufficient
tension or abnormally high loading.1. Check the automatic tensioner and
inspect the drive belt. Make sure water
pump, tensioner pulley, fan hub, generator
and power steering pump turn freely.
2. Intake air or exhaust leaks. 2. Refer to Excessive Exhaust Smoke
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
9 - 284 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(9) Use Tool 9010 to remove the injector and cop-
per sealing washer.
(10) Install compression test Tool 9007 into the
injector bore.
(11) Connect the leakage tester and perform the
leakage test procedure on each cylinder according to
the tester manufacturer's instructions.
(12) Upon completion of the test check and erase
any engine related fault codes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobicmaterial is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier than using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 289
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

CONNECTING RODS
The connecting rods are a split angle design (Fig.
89). They have a pressed-in-place wrist pin bushing
that is lubricated by piston cooling nozzle oil spray.
There are two different types of connecting rods:
machined and fractured split. The main different
between the two styles is the surface finish on the
connecting rod split face.
Machined connecting rods can be identified by a
machined surface at the connecting rod and cap split
face. Machined connecting rods have numbers
stamped on the rod cap and connecting rod near the
parting line. The number stamped on the connecting
rod must match the number stamped on the rod cap
and be installed on the camshaft or intake side of the
engine.
Fractured split connecting rods are first manufac-
tured as a single piece and then fractured into two
pieces. Fractured split connecting rods can be identi-
fied by a rough and irregular surface at the connect-
ing rod split face. To properly assemble the rod cap to
the connecting rod, the bearing tangs on the connect-
ing rod and cap must be located on the same side of
the rod. The long end of the connecting rod must be
assembled on the intake or camshaft side of the
engine.
Measuring methods and specifications are common
between fractured split and machined connecting
rods.
Both fractures split and machined connecting rods
and caps are machined as an assembly and are not
interchangeable. If a connecting rod or cap is dam-
aged, the entire assembly must be replaced.
Machined and fractured split connecting rods cannot
be used in the same engine.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEAD GASKET
SELECTION
(1) Measure piston protrusion for all six pistons.
(2) Calculate the average piston protrusion. Maxi-
mum allowable protrusion is 0.516 mm (0.020 inch).
NOTE: There are two different head gaskets avail-
able. One gasket is for Average piston protrusion
less than 0.30 mm (0.011 inch). The other gasket is
for Average piston protrusion greater than 0.30 mm
(0.011 inch)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery cables.
(2) Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pan and suction tube (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove bolts and the block stiffener.(5) Using Miller Tool 7471-B crankshaft barring
tool, rotate the crankshaft so all of the pistons are
below TDC.
(6) Before removing the piston(s) from the bore(s):
(a) Remove any carbon ridge formations or
deposits at the top of the bore with a dull scraper
or soft wire brush.
(b) If cylinder bore wear ridges are found, use a
ridge reamer to cut the ridge from the bore. DO
NOT remove more metal than necessary to remove
the ridge.
(7) Remove the J-jet cooling nozzels, if equipped.
NOTE: If cylinders have ridges, the cylinders are
oversize and will more than likely need boring.
(8) Using a hammer and steel stamp, stamp the
cylinder number in the top of each piston. The front
of the piston is identified by a stamping on the top of
the piston. DO NOT stamp in the outside 5 mm (.197
in.) of the piston diameter. DO NOT stamp over the
piston pin.
(9) Mark the connecting rod and cap with the cor-
responding cylinder numbers.
(10) Remove the connecting rod bolts and rod caps.
Use care so the cylinder bores and connecting rods
are not damaged.
Fig. 89 Connecting Rod
9 - 330 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

OIL COOLER & LINES
CLEANING
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the sealing surfaces.
Apply 483 kPa (70 psi) air pressure to the element
to check for leaks. If the element leaks, replace the
element.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
(1) Clean the area around the oil filter head.
Remove the filter from below using a cap-style filter
wrench.
(2) Clean the gasket surface of the filter head. The
filter canister O-Ring seal can stick on the filter
head. Make sure it is removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the oil filter element with clean oil before
installation. Use the same type oil that will be used
in the engine.
(2) Apply a light film of lubricating oil to the seal-
ing surface before installing the filter.
CAUTION: Mechanical over-tightening may distort
the threads or damage the filter element seal.
(3) Install the filter until it contacts the sealing
surface of the oil filter adapter. Tighten filter an
additional
1¤2turn.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Install engine support fixture # 8534.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(5) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(6) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(7) Remove flywheel or flexplate.
(8) Remove the transmission adapter plate.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(9) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).(10) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing sur-
face is not damaged and tighten to 50 N´m (57 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(11) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(12) Remove oil pan and suction tube.
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and
cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be
required around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and
flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces
for cracks and damage. Replace any defective compo-
nent. Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole
threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for
straightness. Repair any minor imperfections with a
ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil
pan by welding.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear hous-
ing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use
MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equiva-
lent.
(2) Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them
into place. Using a new tube to block gasket, install
and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting
with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the bolts to 24
N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube
brace bolts to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Starting in the center and working outward,
tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the flywheel housing assembly with the
starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 N´m
(57 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect starter motor cables.
(6) Install the flywheel or flexplate. Torque to 137
N´m (101 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
(10) Install battery negative cables.
(11) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(12) Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine,
check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.
9 - 342 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR