check engine light DODGE RAM 2003 Service Manual PDF

UPPER SEALÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED
(1) Clean the cylinder block mating surfaces before
oil seal installation. Check for burrs at the oil hole on
the cylinder block mating surface to rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil. To allow ease of installation of the seal, loosen at
least the two main bearing caps forward of the rear
bearing cap.
(3) Rotate the new upper seal into the cylinder
block, being careful not to shave or cut the outer sur-
face of the seal. To ensure proper installation, use the
installation tool provided with the kit. Install the
new seal with the white paint facing toward the rear
of the engine.
(4) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing toward
the rear of the engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 32). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application. Be sure the white paint faces
toward the rear of the engine.
(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten ALL cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(9) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap-to-block and oil pan sealing (Fig.
33). Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
LOWER SEAL
(1) Clean the rear main cap mating surfaces
including the oil pan gasket groove.
(2) Carefully install a new upper seal. Refer to
UPPER SEALÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED.
(3) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(4) Install a new lower seal in bearing cap with
the white paint facing the rear of engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 32). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.
(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten the cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(9) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing.
Apply enough sealant so that a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
Fig. 33 Apply Sealant to Bearing Cap-to-Block Joint
1 - MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT NOZZLE
TIP
2 - SEALANT APPLIED
3 - CYLINDER BLOCK
4 - REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 257
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 37).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch)
diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tap-
pet.(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal
position.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7) Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push
rod.
(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the
base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2
seconds.
(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require
20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with
leak-down time interval not within this specification.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the air cleaner assembly and air in-let
hose.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Fig. 37 Leak-Down Tester
1 - POINTER
2 - WEIGHTED ARM
3 - RAM
4 - CUP
5 - HANDLE
6 - PUSH ROD
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 259
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL
LEAKS
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.
(5) If the oil leak source is not positively identified
at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(7) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.
(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL
PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit.
(2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292. Start engine and record pressure. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
OIL LEVEL INDICATOR (DIPSTICK)
The engine oil level indicator is located at the right
front of the engine, left of the generator (Fig. 53).
CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
oil foaming and oil pressure loss can result.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
Fig. 53 Oil Level Indicator Location
1 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
2 - ENGINE OIL FILL CAP
3 - DIPSTICK
4 - ENGINE OIL FILTER
5 - FILTER BOSS
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 269
LUBRICATION (Continued)

INSPECTIONÐPUSHRODS
Inspect the push rod ball and socket for signs of
scoring. Check for cracks where the ball and the
socket are pressed into the tube (Fig. 16).
Roll the push rod on a flat work surface with the
socket end hanging off the edge (Fig. 17). Replace
any push rod that appears to be bent.
INSTALLATION
WARNING: THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE HEAD
GASKET IS VERY SHARP. WHEN HANDLING THE
NEW HEAD GASKET, USE CARE NOT TO INJURE
YOURSELF.
(1) Install a new gasket with the part number side
up, and locate the gasket over the dowel sleeves.
(2) Using an engine lifting crane, lower the cylin-
der head onto the engine.
(3) Lightly lubricate head bolts with engine oil and
install. Using the sequence shown in (Fig. 18),
tighten bolts in the following steps:
(a) Torque bolts to 70 N´m (52 ft. lbs.)(b) Back off 360 degrees in sequence
(c) Torque bolts to 105 N´m (77 ft. lbs.)
(d) Re-check all bolts to 105 N´m (77 ft. lbs.)
(e) Tighten all bolts an additional
1¤4turn (90É)
(4) Install push rods into their original locations
(Fig. 19).Verify that they are seated in the tap-
pets.
(5) Lubricate valve stem tips and install the cross-
heads in their original locations.
(6) Lubricate the rocker arms and pedestals and
install them in their original locations (Fig. 20).
Install the bolts and torque them to 36 N´m (27 ft.
lbs.).
(7) Verify that the valve lash settings are main-
tained (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/IN-
TAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(8) Inspect rocker housing gasket for cuts and
proper installation into groove. Replace if damaged.
Fig. 16 Inspecting Push Rod for Cracks
Fig. 17 Inspecting Push Rod for Flatness
Fig. 18 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Sequence
Fig. 19 Push Rod Installation
9 - 302 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

(3) Consult the parts catalog for the proper head
gaskets which must be used with refaced blocks to
ensure proper piston-to-valve clearance.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE -
DE-GLAZE
(1) New piston rings may not seat in glazed cylin-
der bores.
(2) De-glazing gives the bore the correct surface
finish required to seat the rings. The size of the bore
is not changed by proper de-glazing.
(3) Cover the lube and tappet holes in the top of
the block with waterproof tape.
(4) It crankshaft is installed, wrap connecting rod
journals with clean cloth. Cover cloth with water-
proof tape.
(5) A correctly honed surface will have a cross-
hatch appearance with the lines at 15É to 25É angles
(Fig. 46). For the rough hone, use 80 grit honing
stones. To finish hone, use 280 grit honing stones.
(6) Use a drill, a fine grit Flex-hone and a mixture
of equal parts of mineral spirits and SAE 30W engine
oil to de-glaze the bores.
(7) The crosshatch angle is a function of drill
speed and how fast the hone is moved vertically (Fig.
47).
(8) Vertical strokes MUST be smooth continuous
passes along the full length of the bore (Fig. 47).(9) Inspect the bore after 10 strokes.
(10) Use a strong solution of hot water and laun-
dry detergent to clean the bores. Clean the cylinder
bores immediately after de-glazing.
(11) Rinse the bores until the detergent is removed
and blow the block dry with compressed air.
(12) Check the bore cleanliness by wiping with a
white, lint free, lightly oiled cloth. If grit residue is
still present, repeat the cleaning process until all res-
idue is removed. Wash the bores and the complete
block assembly with solvent and dry with compressed
air. Place a clean shop towel around the top main
bearing saddle to deflect water and residue from pis-
ton cooling nozzels. Remove directed piston cooling
nozzles if installed.
(13) Be sure to remove the tape covering the lube
holes, rod journals, and piston cooling nozzles after
the cleaning process is complete.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
REPAIR
Cylinder bore(s) can be repaired by one of two
methods:
²Method 1:ÐOver boring and using oversize pis-
tons and rings.
²Method 2:ÐBoring and installing a repair sleeve
to return the bore to standard dimensions.
METHOD 1ÐOVERSIZE BORE
Cylinder bore(s) can be repaired by one of two
methods:
Oversize pistons and rings are available in two
sizes - 0.50 mm (0.0197 inch) and 1.00 mm (0.0393
inch).
Any combination of standard, 0.50 mm (0.0197
inch) or 1.00 mm (0.0393 inch) overbore may be used
in the same engine.
Fig. 45 Stamp Block after Reface
Fig. 46 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
Fig. 47 De-Glazing Drill Speed and Vertical Speed
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 313
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

If more than 1.00 mm (0.0393 inch) overbore is
needed, a repair sleeve can be installed (refer to
Method 2ÐRepair Sleeve).
Cylinder block bores may be bored twice before use
of a repair sleeve is required. The first bore is 0.50
mm (0.0197 inch) oversize. The second bore is 1.00
mm (0.0393 inch) oversize.
After boring to size, use a honing stone to chamfer
the edge of the bore.
CYLINDER BORE DIMENSION CHART
DESCRIPTION MEASUREMENT
BORING DIAMETER
DIMENSION1st. REBORE - 102.469
mm (4.0342 in.)
2nd. REBORE - 102.969
mm (4.0539 in.)
HONING DIAMETER
DIMENSIONSSTANDARD - 102.020  
0.020 mm (4.0165  
0.0008 in.)
1st. REBORE - 102.520
  0.020 mm (4.0362  
0.0008 in.)
2nd. REBORE - 103.020
  0.020 mm 4.0559  
0.0008 in.)
CHAMFER
DIMENSIONSApprox. 1.25 mm (0.049
in.) by 15É
A correctly honed surface will have a crosshatch
appearance with the lines at 15É to 25É angles with
the top of the cylinder block (Fig. 48). For the rough
hone, use 80 grit honing stones. To finish hone, use
280 grit honing stones.
A maximum of 1.2 micrometer (48 microinch) sur-
face finish must be obtained.
After finish honing is complete, immediately clean
the cylinder bores with a strong solution of laundry
detergent and hot water.
After rinsing, blow the block dry.
Check the bore cleanliness by wiping with a white,
lint-free, lightly- oiled cloth. There should be no grit
residue present.If the block is not to be used right away, coat it
with a rust- preventing compound.
METHOD 2ÐREPAIR SLEEVE
If more than a 1.00 mm (0.03937 inch) diameter
oversize bore is required, the block must be bored
and a repair sleeve installed.
Bore the block cylinder bore to 104.500-104.515
mm (4.1142-4.1148 inch) - (Fig. 49).
Repair sleeves can be replaced by using a boring
bar to bore out the old sleeve. DO NOT cut the cyl-
inder bore beyond the oversize limit.
REPAIR SLEEVE BLOCK REBORE
DIMENSIONS CHART
BORE DIAMETER STEP DIMENSION
104.500 + 0.015 mm
(4.1142 + 0.0006 in.)6.35 mm (0.25 in.)
After machining the block for the new repair
sleeve, thoroughly clean the bore of all metal chips,
debris and oil residue before installing the sleeve.
Cool the repair sleeve(s) to a temperature of -12ÉC
(10ÉF) or below for a minimum of one hour. Be ready
to install the sleeve immediately after removing it
from the freezer.
Apply a coat of Loctite 620, or equivalent to the
bore that is to be sleeved.
Wear protective gloves to push the cold sleeve into
the bore as far as possible.
Fig. 48 Crosshatch Pattern of Repaired Sleeve(s)
Fig. 49 Block Bore for Repair Sleeve Dimensions
1 - BORE DIAMETER
2 - STEP DIMENSION
9 - 314 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

(11) Connect battery negative cables.
(12) Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
(13) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil. Re-install plug and torque to 50 N´m (44
ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
(5) Remove flywheel or torque converter drive
plate.
(6) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(8) Remove four (4) oil pan rear bolts. Slide a
feeler guage between the seal retainer and oil pan
gasket to break the seal.
(9) Remove the six (6) retainer-to-block bolts (Fig.
75).
(10) Remove the rear seal retainer and gasket
(Fig. 75).
(11) Support the seal retainer and drive out the
crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.
INSTALLATION
(1) If using the old seal retainer, the crankshaft
seal must be replaced.(2) Inspect oil pan gasket for nickes or cuts. If gas-
ket is damaged, the oil pan must be removed and
gasket must be replaced. Wipe oil pan gasket dry and
apply light coating of RTV.
(3) Using the retainer alignment/seal installation
tool provided in the seal service kit, install the align-
ment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder
block (Fig. 76), using a new gasket. Tighten the six
(6) mounting bolts by hand.
(4) The seal alignment tool is used to align rear
cover properly. Starting with the center two bolts,
tighten the retainer in a circular pattern to 10 N´m
(89 in. lbs.). Remove the alignment tool.
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
(5) Make sure the provided seal pilot is installed
into the new crankshaft seal. Use the alignment/in-
stallation tool and press the seal onto the crankshaft
(Fig. 77). Alternately drive the seal at the 12, 3, 6
and 9 o'clock positions.
(6) Remove the alignment tool and trim the
retainer gasket even with the oil pan mounting sur-
face (Fig. 78).
(7) Remove the seal pilot.
(8) Apply a small amount of MopartSilicone Rub-
ber Adhesive Sealant to the oil pan rail T-joints.
(9) Install the four (4) oil pan rear mounting bolts
and torque to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install new rectangular ring seal for cam bore.
Fig. 75 Crankshaft Rear Seal Retainer and Gasket
1 - RETAINER
2 - GASKET
3 - BOLT
Fig. 76 Aligning Seal Retainer with Alignment/
Installation Tool
1 - ALIGNMENT / INSTALLATION TOOL
2 - SEAL RETAINER
9 - 326 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

OIL COOLER & LINES
CLEANING
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the sealing surfaces.
Apply 483 kPa (70 psi) air pressure to the element
to check for leaks. If the element leaks, replace the
element.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
(1) Clean the area around the oil filter head.
Remove the filter from below using a cap-style filter
wrench.
(2) Clean the gasket surface of the filter head. The
filter canister O-Ring seal can stick on the filter
head. Make sure it is removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the oil filter element with clean oil before
installation. Use the same type oil that will be used
in the engine.
(2) Apply a light film of lubricating oil to the seal-
ing surface before installing the filter.
CAUTION: Mechanical over-tightening may distort
the threads or damage the filter element seal.
(3) Install the filter until it contacts the sealing
surface of the oil filter adapter. Tighten filter an
additional
1¤2turn.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Install engine support fixture # 8534.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(5) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(6) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(7) Remove flywheel or flexplate.
(8) Remove the transmission adapter plate.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(9) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).(10) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing sur-
face is not damaged and tighten to 50 N´m (57 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(11) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(12) Remove oil pan and suction tube.
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and
cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be
required around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and
flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces
for cracks and damage. Replace any defective compo-
nent. Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole
threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for
straightness. Repair any minor imperfections with a
ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil
pan by welding.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear hous-
ing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use
MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equiva-
lent.
(2) Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them
into place. Using a new tube to block gasket, install
and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting
with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the bolts to 24
N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube
brace bolts to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Starting in the center and working outward,
tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the flywheel housing assembly with the
starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 N´m
(57 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect starter motor cables.
(6) Install the flywheel or flexplate. Torque to 137
N´m (101 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
(10) Install battery negative cables.
(11) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(12) Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine,
check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.
9 - 342 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Toothin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 360 ENGINE 8.0LDR
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the transmission.
(3) Remove the drive plate / flywheel.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting
bolts.
(6) Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Apply a small amount of MopartSilicone Rub-
ber Adhesive Sealant to the retainer gasket. Position
the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position Special Tool 6687 Seal Guide onto the
crankshaft.
(5) Position the retainer and seal over the guide
and onto the engine block.
(6) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐHYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
9 - 386 ENGINE 8.0LDR