tow DODGE RAM 2003 Service Repair Manual

²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(2) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(3) Place a shop towel around the fuel injectors to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the fuel injectors (Refer
to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/FUEL
INJECTOR - REMOVAL).
(4) With all injectors removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using the crankshaft barring tool (PN 7471±B).
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(6) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(8) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(9) Install fuel injectors (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL INJECTION/FUEL INJECTOR -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL FIL-
TER - REMOVAL).
(11) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 50
N´m (37 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Install a new oil filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL FILTER - INSTALLATION).
(13) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - SPECIFICA-
TIONS).
(14) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(15) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
REMOVAL
REMOVALÐENGINE
(1) Disconnect both battery negative cables.
(2) Disconnect engine grid heater harness at grid
heater relays.(3) Disconnect electrical connections from rear of
alternator.
(4) Recover A/C refrigerant. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Raise vehicle on a hoist.
(6) Drain engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Remove engine oil drain plug and drain engine
oil.
(8) Remove fan/drive assembly. Refer to Section 7
± Fan/Drive Removal
(9) Remove radiator upper hose.
(10) Remove upper fan shroud mounting bolts.
(11) Disconnect the coolant recovery bottle hose
from the radiator fill neck and remove bottle.
(12) Using a 36mm wrench, remove viscous fan/
drive assembly. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RA-
DIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(13) Remove cooling fan and shroud together.
(14) Disconnect heater core supply and return
hoses from the cylinder head fitting and coolant pipe.
(15) Raise vehicle on a hoist.
(16) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(17) Disconnect exhaust pipe from turbocharger
extension pipe.
(18) Disconnect engine harness to vehicle harness
connectors.
(19) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(20) Remove flywheel/flexplate.
(21) Remove transmission adapter
(22) Disconnect A/C suction/discharge hose from
the rear of the A/C compressor.
(23) Lower vehicle.
(24) Disconnect lower radiator hose from radiator
outlet.
(25) Automatic transmission models:
(26) Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines from
in front of radiator using special tool #6931
(27) Remove radiator. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL).
(28) If A/C equipped, disconnect A/C condenser
refrigerant lines.
(29) Disconnect charge air cooler piping.
(30) Remove charge air cooler mounting bolts.
(31) Remove charge air cooler (and A/C condenser
if equipped) from vehicle.
(32) Remove damper and speed indicator ring from
front of engine.
(33) Disconnect engine block heater connector.
(34) Disconnect A/C compressor and pressure sen-
sor electrical connectors.
9 - 290 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(3) Consult the parts catalog for the proper head
gaskets which must be used with refaced blocks to
ensure proper piston-to-valve clearance.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE -
DE-GLAZE
(1) New piston rings may not seat in glazed cylin-
der bores.
(2) De-glazing gives the bore the correct surface
finish required to seat the rings. The size of the bore
is not changed by proper de-glazing.
(3) Cover the lube and tappet holes in the top of
the block with waterproof tape.
(4) It crankshaft is installed, wrap connecting rod
journals with clean cloth. Cover cloth with water-
proof tape.
(5) A correctly honed surface will have a cross-
hatch appearance with the lines at 15É to 25É angles
(Fig. 46). For the rough hone, use 80 grit honing
stones. To finish hone, use 280 grit honing stones.
(6) Use a drill, a fine grit Flex-hone and a mixture
of equal parts of mineral spirits and SAE 30W engine
oil to de-glaze the bores.
(7) The crosshatch angle is a function of drill
speed and how fast the hone is moved vertically (Fig.
47).
(8) Vertical strokes MUST be smooth continuous
passes along the full length of the bore (Fig. 47).(9) Inspect the bore after 10 strokes.
(10) Use a strong solution of hot water and laun-
dry detergent to clean the bores. Clean the cylinder
bores immediately after de-glazing.
(11) Rinse the bores until the detergent is removed
and blow the block dry with compressed air.
(12) Check the bore cleanliness by wiping with a
white, lint free, lightly oiled cloth. If grit residue is
still present, repeat the cleaning process until all res-
idue is removed. Wash the bores and the complete
block assembly with solvent and dry with compressed
air. Place a clean shop towel around the top main
bearing saddle to deflect water and residue from pis-
ton cooling nozzels. Remove directed piston cooling
nozzles if installed.
(13) Be sure to remove the tape covering the lube
holes, rod journals, and piston cooling nozzles after
the cleaning process is complete.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
REPAIR
Cylinder bore(s) can be repaired by one of two
methods:
²Method 1:ÐOver boring and using oversize pis-
tons and rings.
²Method 2:ÐBoring and installing a repair sleeve
to return the bore to standard dimensions.
METHOD 1ÐOVERSIZE BORE
Cylinder bore(s) can be repaired by one of two
methods:
Oversize pistons and rings are available in two
sizes - 0.50 mm (0.0197 inch) and 1.00 mm (0.0393
inch).
Any combination of standard, 0.50 mm (0.0197
inch) or 1.00 mm (0.0393 inch) overbore may be used
in the same engine.
Fig. 45 Stamp Block after Reface
Fig. 46 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
Fig. 47 De-Glazing Drill Speed and Vertical Speed
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 313
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

ring tool to keep the engine from rotating during
tightening operation.
(11) Install the fan support/hub assembly and
torque bolts to 32 N´m (24 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install hydraulic pump.
(13) Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque
bolt to 43 Nm (32 ft.lbs.).
(14) Install cooling fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(16) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(17) Connect battery negative cables.
(18) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(3) Remove the clutch cover and disc (if manual
transmission equipped) (Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/
CLUTCH DISC - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
(5) Drill holes 180É apart into the seal. Be careful
not to contact the drill against the crankshaft.
(6) Install #10 sheet metal screws in the drilled
holes and remove the rear seal with a slide hammer
(Fig. 73).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
(1) Clean the crankshaft journal with a suitable
solvent and dry with a clean shop towel or com-
pressed air. Wipe the inside bore of the crankshaft
seal retainer with a clean shop towel.
(2) Inspect the crankshaft journal for gouges,
nicks, or other imperfections. If the seal groove in the
crankshaft is excessively deep, install the new seal
1/8º deeper into the retainer bore, or obtain a crank-
shaft wear sleeve that is available in the aftermar-
ket.
(3) Install the seal pilot and new seal, provided in
the replacement kit, onto the crankshaft.
(4) Remove the seal pilot.
(5) Install the installation tool over crankshaft.
(6) Using a ball peen hammer, strike the tool at
the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions until the align-
ment tool bottoms out on the retainer (Fig. 74).
(7) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten the bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
(9) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(10) Lower vehicle.
Fig. 73 Crankshaft Rear Seal Removal
1 - NO. 10 SCREW
2 - REAR SEAL
3 - CRANKSHAFT
4 - SLIDE HAMMER
Fig. 74 Seal Installation Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 325
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)

(11) Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque
bolts to 77 N´m (57 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.).
(13) Install the starter motor and torque to 43 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.)(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(15) Lower vehicle.
(16) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(17) Connect the battery negative cables.
(18) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
SOLID LIFTERS/TAPPETS
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure requires use of Miller Tool
8502 Tappet Replacement Kit.
(1) Remove camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK) - REMOVAL).
(2) Insert the trough (provided with tool kit) the
full length of the camshaft bore (Fig. 79). Make sure
the cap end goes in first and the open side faces up
(towards tappets).
(3)Remove only one tappet at a time.Remove
rubber band from one cylinder pair and attach tappet
dowel not being removed to the next cylinder pair
(Fig. 80).
Fig. 79 Inserting the Trough - Typical
1 - TROUGH
Fig. 80 Secure Dowel/Tappet to Adjacent Cylinder -
typical
Fig. 77 Installing Seal Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 78 Trimming Excess Gasket Material
1 - GASKET
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 327
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)

(4) Raise dowel rod (disengage from tappet) and
allow tappet to fall into trough (Fig. 81).
(5) Carefully remove trough(do not rotate)and
tappet. If the tappet is not being replaced, mark it so
it can be installed in its original location.
(6) Re-install trough and repeat procedure on
remaining tappets.
CLEANING
Clean tappet with a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot
water and blow dry with a clean shop rag or com-
pressed air.
INSPECTION
(1) Visually inspect the tappet the tappet socket,
stem, and face for excessive wear, cracks, or obvious
damage (Fig. 82).
(2) Measure the tappet stem diameter. Replace the
tappet if it falls below the minimum size (Fig. 82).
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert the trough the full length of the cam-
shaft bore. Again, make sure the cap end goes in first
and the open side faces up (towards tappets).
(2) Lower the tappet installation tool through the
push rod hole (Fig. 83) and into the trough.
(3) Retrieve the tappet installation tool using the
hooked rod provided with the tool kit (Fig. 84).
Fig. 83 Insert Installation Tool through Push Rod
Hole - Typical
Fig. 84 Retrieve Tappet Installation Tool through
Cam Bore - Typical
Fig. 81 Lift Dowel Rod to Disengage from Tappet -
typical
Fig. 82 Tappet Inspection
TAPPET STEM DIAMETER
15.936 mm (0.627 in.) MIN.
15.977 mm (0.629 in.) MAX.
9 - 328 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
SOLID LIFTERS/TAPPETS (Continued)

(4) Lubricate the tappet with clean engine oil or
suitable equivalent and install the tappet to the
installation tool (Fig. 85).
(5) Pull the tappet up and into position (Fig. 85). If
difficulty is experienced getting the tappet to make
the turn into the tappet bore, wiggle the trough
whilegentlypulling up on the tappet.
(6) With the tappet in place, rotate the trough one
half turn so the open side is down (toward crank-
shaft) (Fig. 86).
(7) Remove the tappet installation tool from the
tappet.
(8) Re-install a dowel rod and secure the rod with
a rubber band.
(9) Rotate the trough one half turn and repeat the
procedure for the remaining tappets.
(10) Install the camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK) - INSTALLATION).PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
PISTONS
The piston (Fig. 87) is constructed of aluminum
and is gravity cast, free floating design. The piston
incorporates a centrally located high swirl combus-
tion bowl, and utilizes a ªkeystoneº style top com-
pression ring (Fig. 88), and a ªTapered Faceº
intermediate ring (Fig. 88), for superior cylinder wall
scraping. Piston cooling nozzles cool the piston and
pin with engine oil supplied by the crankshaft main
journals. High horsepower pistons are gallery cooled
and utilize J-jet piston cooling nozzles.
Fig. 85 Insert Tool and Pull Tappet Into Place -
Typical
Fig. 86 Rotate Trough One Half Turn (180É) - Typical
Fig. 87 Piston - Typical
Fig. 88 Piston Ring Identification
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 329
SOLID LIFTERS/TAPPETS (Continued)

Inspect the piston pin for nicks, gouges and exces-
sive wear. Measure the pin diameter (Fig. 93). The
minimum diameter is 39.990 mm (1.5744 inch), max-
imum 40.003 mm (1.5749 inch). If the diameter is out
of limits, replace the pin.
INSPECTIONÐCONNECTING ROD
Inspect the connecting rod for damage and wear.
The I-Beam section of the connecting rod cannot have
dents or other damage. Damage to this part can
cause stress risers which will progress to breakage.
Measure the connecting rod pin bore (Fig. 94). The
maximum diameter is 40.042 mm (1.5765 inch), min-
imum diameter is 40.019 mm (1.5756 inch). If out of
limits, replace the connecting rod.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean engine
oil.
(2) Generously lubricate the rings and piston
skirts with clean engine oil.(3) Compress the rings using a piston ring com-
pressor tool (Fig. 95). If using a strap-type ring com-
pressor, make sure the inside end of the strap does
not hook on a ring gap and break the ring.
(4) Bar the crankshaft so the rod journal for the
piston to be installed is at BDC (Bottom Dead Cen-
ter) - (Fig. 96).
(5) Make sure the front of the piston is oriented
properly according to the marking on the top of the
piston and the numbers on the rod and cap are ori-
ented as illustrated.
(6) Position the piston and rod assembly into the
cylinder bore with the front of the piston oriented
properly according to the stamping in the top of the
piston. In this position the numbers on the connect-
ing rod should be facing the intake or camshaft side
of the engine, and the rod bolt hex heads toward the
oil cooler. Use care when you install the piston and
connecting rod so the cylinder bore is not damaged. If
a fractured split connecting rod is being installed, the
long side of the connecting rod must be installed on
the intake side of the engine.
(7) Push the piston into the bore until the top of
the piston is approximately 50 mm (2 inch) below the
top of the block. Carefully pull the connecting rod
onto the crankshaft journal.
Fig. 93 Piston Pin Diameter
1 - PISTON PIN
Fig. 94 Connecting Rod Pin Bore
1 - CONNECTING ROD
Fig. 95 Piston Ring Compressor Tool
1 - PISTON RING COMPRESSOR TOOL
Fig. 96 Piston/Rod Assembly at BDC
9 - 332 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

(8) Use clean engine oil to lubricate the threads
and under the heads of the connecting rod bolts.
(9)For machined connecting rods,the number
stamped on the rod cap at the parting line must
match and be installed towards the intake or cam-
shaft side of the engine (Fig. 97).For fractured/
split type connecting rods,the long end of the rod
must be installed towards the intake side of the
engine.
(a) The connecting rod split/face must face
toward the same side as the piston notch feature
on the skirt. The split face will face toward the oil
cooler side of the engine if properly installed.
(10) Install the rod cap and bolts to the connecting
rod. Tighten the connecting rod bolts evenly in 3
steps.
²Tighten the bolts to 30 N´m (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Tighten the bolts to 60 N´m (44 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Rotate 60É clockwise.
(11) The crankshaft must rotate freely. Check for
freedom of rotation as the caps are installed. If the
crankshaft does not rotate freely, check the installa-
tion of the rod bearing and the bearing size.
(12) Measure the side clearance between the con-
necting rod and the crankshaft (Fig. 98). DO NOT
measure the clearance between the cap and crank-
shaft.
(13) Install J-jet piston cooling nozzles if equipped.
(14) Install block stiffener. Torque to 43 N´m (32 ft.
lbs.).
(15) Install the suction tube and oil pan (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).(16) Install the cylinder head onto the engine
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTAL-
LATION).
(17) Install a new filter and fill the crankcase with
new engine oil.
(18) Connect the battery negative cables and start
engine.
PISTON RINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON RING
FITTING
(1) Determine the piston diameter and obtain the
appropriate ring set. The piston rings can be identi-
fied as shown in (Fig. 99).
Fig. 97 Correct Rod Cap Installation
Fig. 98 Side Clearance between Connecting
Rod/Crankshaft
1 - FEELER GAUGE
´Minimum 0.33 mm (.013 inch)
´MAX. 0.10mm (.004 inch)
Fig. 99 Piston Ring Identification
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 333
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Toothin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 360 ENGINE 8.0LDR
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)

MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier than using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the battery.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
DRENGINE 8.0L 9 - 361
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)