Oss DODGE RAM 2003 Service Repair Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: DODGE, Model Year: 2003, Model line: RAM, Model: DODGE RAM 2003Pages: 2895, PDF Size: 83.15 MB
Page 1339 of 2895

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
5. Low compression. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
6. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
8. Faulty coil. 8. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
1. ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
gapped.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Dirt in fuel system. 2. Clean fuel system.
3. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 3. Replcae as necessary.
4. Faulty coil. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
1. ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH
SPEED1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
gapped.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Faulty coil. 2. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
3. Dirt or water in fuel system. 3. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
9 - 90 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)
Page 1340 of 2895

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIONS
NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in
crankcase.1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil and filter.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
4. Dirt in lash adjusters. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Worn rocker arms. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Worn lash adjusters 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Worn valve guides. 7. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES
& SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
8. Excessive runout of valve seats
on valve faces.8. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES
& SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Connecting rod journal
out-of-round.5. Service or replace crankshaft.
6. Misaligned connecting rods. 6. Replace bent connecting rods.
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS)
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Excessive end play. 5. Check thrust washers for wear.
6. Crankshaft journal out-of round. 6. Service or replace crankshaft.
7. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.7. Tighten to correct torque
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 91
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)
Page 1341 of 2895

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disable the fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DESCRIPTION).
(5) Remove the ASD relay (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/AUTO SHUT DOWN
RELAY - REMOVAL).
(6) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(7) Record the compression pressure on the 3rd
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(8) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for
the correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
(1) Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
(2) Start and operate the engine until it attains
normal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
(3) Remove the spark plugs.
(4) Remove the oil filler cap.
(5) Remove the air cleaner hose.
(6) Calibrate the tester according to the manufac-
turer's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
(7) Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compres-
sion,While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE
LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
9 - 92 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)
Page 1342 of 2895

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING)ÐPERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)ÐMECHANICAL for
possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following diagnosis:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING).
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier than using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 93
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)
Page 1343 of 2895

to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure applies to both the 4X2 and
4X4 vehicles, steps that apply to the 4X4 vehicle
only, are identified.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative and positive
cables.
(2) Remove the battery and the battery tray.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Remove exhaust crossover pipe from exhaust
manifolds.
(5)4X4 vehiclesDisconnect axle vent tube from
left side engine mount.
(6) Remove the through bolt retaining nut and bolt
from both the left and right side engine mounts.
(7)4X4 vehiclesRemove locknut from left and
right side engine mount brackets.
(8) Disconnect two ground straps from the lower
left hand side and one ground strap from the lower
right hand side of the engine.
(9) Disconnect crankshaft position sensor. (Fig. 1)
NOTE: The following step applies to 4X4 vehicles
equipped with automatic transmission only.
(10)4X4 vehiclesRemove the axle isolator
bracket from the engine, transmission and the axle.
(11) Remove structural cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER -
REMOVAL).(12) Remove starter (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(13) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(14) Remove torque converter bolts (Automatic
Transmission Only).
(15) Remove transmission to engine mounting
bolts.
(16) Disconnect the engine block heater power
cable from the block heater, if equipped.
(17) Lower vehicle.
(18) Remove throttle body resonator assembly and
air inlet hose.
(19) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(20) Disconnect tube from both the left and right
side crankcase breathers (Fig. 2). Remove breathers
(21) Discharge A/C system (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/REFRIG-
ERANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(22) Remove A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - REMOVAL).
(23) Remove shroud, fan assembly (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL) and accessory drive belt
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE
BELTS - REMOVAL).
(24) Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines at the
radiator.
Fig. 1 Crankshaft Position Sensor
1 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
2 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
3 - CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
4 - RIGHT SIDE CYLINDER BLOCK
9 - 94 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)
Page 1346 of 2895

(9) Connect fuel supply line quick connect fitting
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/
QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(10) Connect the vacuum lines at the throttle body
and intake manifold.
(11) Connect engine harness at the following
points (Fig. 3):
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
(12) Position and install heater hoses and tubes
onto intake manifold.
(13) Install the heater hoses onto the heater core
and the engine front cover.
(14) Install generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
CHARGING/GENERATOR - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install A/C condenser (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C CON-
DENSER - INSTALLATION), radiator (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION)
and transmission oil cooler.
(16) Connect radiator upper and lower hoses.
(17) Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to
the radiator.
(18) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION), fan assembly and shroud (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - INSTALLATION).
(19) Install A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - INSTALLATION).
(20) Install both breathers. Connect tube to both
crankcase breathers (Fig. 2).(21) Connect throttle and speed control cables.
(22) Install throttle body resonator assembly and
air inlet hose. Tighten clamps 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.).
(23) Raise vehicle.
(24) Install transmission to engine mounting bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(25) Install torque converter bolts (Automatic
Transmission Only).
(26) Connect crankshaft position sensor (Fig. 1).
(27)4X4 vehiclesPosition and install the axle
isolator bracket onto the axle, transmission and
engine block. Tighten bolts to specification (Refer to 9
- ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(28) Install starter (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
CAUTION: The structural cover requires a specific
torque sequence. Failure to follow this sequence
may cause severe damage to the cover.
(29) Install structural cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(30) Install exhaust crossover pipe.
(31) Install engine block heater power cable, If
equipped.
(32)4X4 vehiclesConnect axle vent tube to left
side engine mount.
(33) Lower vehicle.
(34) Check and fill engine oil.
(35) Recharge the A/C system (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/REFRIG-
ERANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(36) Refill the engine cooling system (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(37) Install the battery tray and battery.
(38) Connect the battery positive and negative
cables.
(39) Start the engine and check for leaks.
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 97
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)
Page 1376 of 2895

(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 48).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 49).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller
diameter from the larger diameter.
(5) Rotate measuring device 90É and repeat steps
above.
(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each measurement.
(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can
be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round
condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper
always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine
has been in use for a period of time.
Fig. 48 CYLINDER BORE CROSSHATCH PATTERN
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Fig. 49 BORE GAUGE-TYPICAL
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 127
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)
Page 1377 of 2895

CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CONNECTING ROD
BEARING FITTING
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Fig. 50). Check the bearings for
normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue and
pitting (Fig. 51). Replace any bearing that shows
abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of
scoring, nicks and burrs.
Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause
abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder
walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft con-
necting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to
any of these components indicate the probability of a
misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod
alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con-
necting rods.
(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
(2) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and install
in connecting rod.(3) Use piston ring compressor and Guide Pins
Special Tool 8507 (Fig. 52) to install the rod and pis-
ton assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must
face front of the engine. The ªFº's near the piston
wrist pin bore should point to the front of the engine.
(4) Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing
cap. The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plas-
tigage across full width of the lower insert at the cen-
ter of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in
use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
(5) Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the
journal and tighten bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a
90É turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
(6) Remove the bearing cap and determine amount
of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the
width of compressed Plastigage (Fig. 53). Refer to
Engine Specifications for the proper clearance.Plas-
tigage should indicate the same clearance
across the entire width of the insert. If the
clearance varies, it may be caused by either a
Fig. 50 Locking Tab Inspection
1 - ABNORMAL CONTACT AREA CAUSED BY LOCKING TABS
NOT FULLY SEATED OR BEING BENT
Fig. 51 Scoring Caused by Insufficient Lubrication
or Damaged Crankshaft Journal
Fig. 52 Piston and Connecting Rod - Installation
1 - ªFº TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE
2 - OIL SLINGER SLOT
3 - RING COMPRESSOR
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 8507
9 - 128 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
Page 1379 of 2895

INSTALLATION
NOTE: Thoroughly clean core plug bore, remove all
of the old sealer.
(1)
Coat the edges of the engine core plug and the
core plug bore with Mopar Gasket Maker, or equivalent.
NOTE: It is not necessary to wait for the sealant to
cure on the core plugs. The cooling system can be
filled and the vehicle returned to service immediately.
(2) Using proper plug driver, drive core plug into
the core plug bore. The sharp edge of the core plug
should be at least 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead
in chamfer.
(3) Refill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft is constructed of nodular cast iron.
The crankshaft is a crosshaped four throw design with
eight counterweights for balancing purposes. The crank-
shaft is supported by five select fit main bearings with
the number three serving as the thrust washer location.
The main journals of the crankshaft are cross drilled to
improve rod bearing lubrication. The number eight
counterweight has provisions for crankshaft position
sensor target wheel mounting. The select fit main bear-
ing markings are located on the rear side of the target
wheel. The crankshaft oil seals are one piece design.
The front oil seal is retained in the timing chain cover,
and the rear seal is pressed in to a bore formed by the
cylinder block and the bedplate assembly.
REMOVAL
NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine,
the engine must be removed from the vehicle.
(1) Remove the engine. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the engine oil pump.(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when
removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted
to the cylinder block in three locations and will
remain attached to block when removing oil pan.
Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
(3) Remove oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).(4) Remove the oil pump pickup tube and oil pan
gasket /windage tray.
(5) Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the
location of the three stud bolts for installation.
(6)
Remove the connecting rods from the crankshaft.
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on
or damage this surface in anyway.
NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bear-
ing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as not
to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing main
bearing halves in the wrong position will cause
sever damage to the crankshaft.
NOTE: The bedplate has pry points cast into it. Use
these points only. The pry points are on both the
left and right sides, only the left side is shown.
(7) Carefully pry on the pry points (Fig. 56) to
loosen the bedplate then remove the bedplate.
CAUTION: When removing the crankshaft, use care
not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
(8) Remove the crankshaft.
(9) Remove the crankshaft target wheel.
Fig. 56 Bedplate Pry Point Location
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - BEDPLATE
3 - PRY POINT
9 - 130 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
CORE PLUGS (Continued)
Page 1384 of 2895

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
Fig. 66 Crankshaft Front Seal Installation
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8348
3 - SPECIAL TOOL 8512
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 135
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)