app DODGE RAM 2003 Service Repair Manual

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
Fig. 66 Crankshaft Front Seal Installation
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8348
3 - SPECIAL TOOL 8512
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 135
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)

FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate onto the crankshaft and
install the bolts hand tight.
(2) Tighten the flexplate retaining bolts to 60 N´m
(45 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown (Fig. 70).
(3) Install the transmission.
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not use a metal stamp to mark con-
necting rods as damage may result, instead use ink
or a scratch awl.
The pistons are made of a high strength aluminum
alloy. The anodized top ring groove and crown has
been replaced with a coated top ring that is blue in
color on the bottom surface. Piston skirts are coated
with a solid lubricant (Molykote) to reduce friction
and provide scuff resistance. The connecting rods are
made of forged powdered metal, with a ªfractured
capº design. A pressed fit piston pin is used to attach
the piston and connecting rod.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐPISTON FITTING
(1) To correctly select the proper size piston, a cyl-
inder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (
.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge
is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at a point 38.0 mm (1.5 inches) below top of
bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to
the axis of the crankshaft at point A and then take
an additional bore reading 90 degrees to that at point
B (Fig. 72).
(3) The coated pistons will be serviced with the
piston pin and connecting rod pre-assembled.
(4) The coating material is applied to the piston
after the final piston machining process. Measuring
the outside diameter of a coated piston will not pro-
vide accurate results (Fig. 71). Therefore measuring
the inside diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial
Bore Gauge isMANDATORY. To correctly select the
proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of
reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) increments is
required.
(5) Piston installation into the cylinder bore
requires slightly more pressure than that required
for non-coated pistons. The bonded coating on the
piston will give the appearance of a line-to-line fit
with the cylinder bore.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the following components:
²Oil pan and gasket/windage tray (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
²Cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) -
Fig. 70 Flexplate Tightening Sequence
1 - FLEXPLATE
Fig. 71 DO NOT MEASURE MOLY COATED PISTON
1 - MOLY COATED
2 - MOLY COATED
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 137

(3) Install the four cover-to-transmission bolts. Do
NOT tighten at this time.
CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly
against both the engine and the transmission bell
housing during tightening sequence. Failure to do
so may cause damage to the cover.
(4) Starting with the two rear cover-to-engine
bolts, tighten bolts (1) (Fig. 86) to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.),
then tighten bolts (2) (Fig. 86) and (3) to 54 N´m ( 40
ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
(5) Install the exhaust pipe on left hand exhaust
manifold.
(6) Tighten exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe
retaining bolts to 20±26 N´m (15±20 ft. lbs.).
FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL
2WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising
engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the
fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
(2) Remove the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the engine oil filter.
(5) Remove the oil drain trough.(6) Support the engine with a suitable jack and a
block of wood across the full width of the engine oil
pan.
(7) Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
(8) Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine
mounts to the front axle.
(9) Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle
to the left engine bracket.
(10) Lower the front axle.
(11) Remove the through bolts
(12) Raise the engine far enough to be able to
remove the left and right engine mounts.
(13) Remove the (8) mount to engine attaching
bolts
(14) Remove the engine mounts.
4WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove the viscous fan.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Remove the skid plate.
(5) Remove the front crossmember.
(6) Remove the engine oil filter.
(7) Remove the oil drain trough.
(8) Support the engine with a suitable jack and a
block of wood across the full width of the engine oil
pan.
(9) Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
(10) Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine
mounts to the front axle (Fig. 87).
(11) Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle
to the left engine bracket.
(12) Lower the front axle.
(13) Remove the (6) through bolts
(14) Raise the engine far enough to be able to
remove the left (Fig. 89) and right (Fig. 88) engine
mounts.
(15) Remove the engine mounts.
INSTALLATION
2WD
NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine
bracket to front axle bolts, apply MoparTLock and
Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.
(1) Install the right and left side engine mounts to
the engine block with (8) bolts. Torque bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(2) Insert the (2) through bolts into the right and
left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two
nuts onto the through bolts.
(3) Lower the engine until the through bolts rest
onto the slots in the frame brackets.
(4) Tighten the through bolt nuts to 94 N´m (70 ft.
lbs.).
Fig. 86 Structural Cover
1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
9 - 144 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
STRUCTURAL COVER (Continued)

(5) Install the oil drain trough.
(6) Install the engine oil filter.
(7) Lower the vehicle.
(8) Install the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(9) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
4WD
NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine
bracket to front axle bolts, apply MoparTLock and
Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.
(1) Install the right and left side engine mounts to
the front axle. Torque nuts to 94 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(2) Raise the front axle into the frame and install
the left and right side through bolts. Torque nuts to
94 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Insert the two upper through bolts into the
right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble
the two nuts onto the through bolts.
Fig. 87 ENGINE INSULATOR MOUNTS 4X4
1 - RH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
2 - NUT
3 - PINION SUPPORT MOUNT
4 - LH INSULATOR MOUNT5 - LH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
6 - FRONT AXLE
7 - NUT
8 - RH INSULATOR MOUNT
Fig. 88 ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET RH
1 - BOLT
2 - ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 145
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)

REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
(3) Remove the nuts from the transmission mount
(Fig. 91).
(4) Remove the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the engine bracket.
(5) Raise the transmission enough to remove the
mount from the crossmember.
(6) Remove the mount.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Threadlocking compound must be applied to
the bolts before installation.
(1) Install the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the transmission bracket.
(2) Torque the bolts to 61N´m (45 ft.lbs.) torque.
(3) Lower the transmission so the transmission
mount rests on the crossmember, and the studs of
the transmission mount are aligned in the slots in
the crossmember.
(4) Install the nuts onto the transmission mount
studs through the crossmember access slot.
(5) Torque the nuts to 54N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 91 TRANSMISSION MOUNT
1 - MOUNT
2 - CROSSMEMBER
3 - NUT
4 - BOLT
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 147

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 93)and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb Idle±25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpm±170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
Fig. 93 OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT -TYPICAL
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
9 - 150 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)

Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800
kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhib-
ited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five
minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil
level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in Maintenance Schedules.
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if
damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil described in this sec-
tion.
(8) Install oil fill cap.
(9) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(10) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used
engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle
engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this
section.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-
flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Cor-
poration recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise (Fig. 97)to
remove it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
Fig. 96 ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK 4.7L ENGINE
1 - TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK
2 - ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK
3 - ENGINE OIL FILL CAP
Fig. 97 Oil Filter - 4.7L Engine
1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER
9 - 152 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
OIL (Continued)

(16) Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes
from intake manifold (Fig. 108).
(17) Remove coolant temperature sensor (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT TEM-
PERATURE SENSO - REMOVAL).
(18) Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in
reverse order of tightening sequence (Fig. 109).
(19) Remove intake manifold.CLEANING
NOTE: There is NO approved repair procedure for the
intake manifold. If severe damage is found during
inspection, the intake manifold must be replaced.
Before installing the intake manifold thoroughly
clean the mating surfaces. Use a suitable cleaning
solvent, then air dry.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the intake sealing surface for cracks,
nicks and distortion.
(2) Inspect the intake manifold vacuum hose fit-
tings for looseness or blockage.
(3) Inspect the manifold to throttle body mating
surface for cracks, nicks and distortion.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install intake manifold gaskets.
(2) Position intake manifold.
(3) Install intake manifold retaining bolts and
tighten in sequence shown in (Fig. 109) to 12 N´m
(105 in. lbs.).
(4) Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
(5) Install throttle body assembly.
(6) Install throttle cable bracket.
(7) Connect throttle cable and speed control cable
to throttle body.
(8) Install fuel rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL RAIL - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install ignition coil towers (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Position and install heater hoses and tubes
onto intake manifold.
(11) Install the heater hoses to the heater core and
engine front cover.
(12) Connect electrical connectors for the following
components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Ignition coil towers
²Fuel injectors
(13) Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and
ground strap.
(14) Connect generator electrical connections.
(15) Connect Brake booster hose and Positive
crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
(16) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(17) Install resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(18) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 108 Heater Hoses and Tubes Removal /
Installation
1 - HEATER HOSES AND TUBES
2 - ROUTING/RETAINING CLIPS
Fig. 109 Intake Manifold Tightening Sequence
9 - 158 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

CAUTION: Do not forcefully rotate the camshafts or
crankshaft independently of each other. Damaging
intake valve to piston contact will occur. Ensure
negative battery cable is disconnected to guard
against accidental starter engagement.
(13) Remove left and right camshaft sprocket bolts.
(14) While holding the left camshaft steel tube
with adjustable pliers, (Fig. 129) remove the left
camshaft sprocket. Slowly rotate the camshaft
approximately 15 degrees clockwise to a neutral posi-
tion.
(15) While holding the right camshaft steel tube
with adjustable pliers, (Fig. 130) remove the right
camshaft sprocket. Slowly rotate the camshaft
approximately 45 degrees counterclockwise to a neu-
tral position.
(16) Remove idler sprocket assembly bolt.
(17) Slide the idler sprocket assembly and crank
sprocket forward simultaneously to remove the pri-
mary and secondary chains.
(18) Remove both pivoting tensioner arms and
chain guides.
(19) Remove chain tensioner.
INSPECTION
Inspect the following components:²Sprockets for excessive tooth wear. Some tooth
markings are normal and not a cause for sprocket
replacement.
Fig. 128 Camshaft Position SensorÐRemoval
1 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
2 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
3 - CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
4 - RIGHT SIDE CYLINDER BLOCKFig. 129 Camshaft RotationÐLeft Side
1 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND CHAIN
2 - ADJUSTABLE PLIERS
3 - CAMSHAFT
Fig. 130 Camshaft RotationÐRight Side
1 - ADJUSTABLE PLIERS
2 - CAMSHAFT DOWEL
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 171
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

²Idler sprocket assembly bushing and shaft for
excessive wear.
²Idler sprocket assembly spline joint. The joint
should be tight with no backlash or axial movement.
²Chain guides and tensioner arms. Replace these
parts if grooving in plastic face is more than 1 mm
(0.039 in.) deep. If plastic face is severely grooved or
melted, the tensioner lube jet may be clogged. The
tensioner should be replaced.
²secondary chain tensioner piston and ratcheting
device. Inspect for evidence of heavy contact between
tensioner piston and tensioner arm. If this condition
exist the tensioner and tensioner arm should be
replaced.
²Primary chain tensioner plastic faces. Replace as
required (Fig. 131).
INSTALLATION
(1) Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary
chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flushwith the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool,
release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against
spring force through access hole on side of tensioner.
While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet
device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner
body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on
front of tensioner. Slowly open vise to transfer piston
spring force to lock pin (Fig. 132).
(2) Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump
and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner
bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torxT
bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head.
Tighten torxTbolt to specified torque only.
(3) Install right side chain tensioner arm. Apply
MopartLock N, Seal to torxtbolt, tighten bolt to 17
N´m (150 in. lbs.).
Fig. 131 Timing Chain System
1 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN
2 - SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER (LEFT AND RIGHT
SIDE NOT COMMON)
3 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM
4 - LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN
5 - CHAIN GUIDE
6 - TWO PLATED LINKS ON RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN7 - PRIMARY CHAIN
8 - IDLER SPROCKET
9 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
10 - PRIMARY CHAIN TENSIONER
11 - TWO PLATED LINKS ON LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
12 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM
9 - 172 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)