ECU DODGE RAM 2003 Service Owner's Guide

brake pressure in proportion to the front brake pres-
sure. If impending rear wheel lock-up is sensed, the
CAB signals the RWAL valve to modulate hydraulic
brake pressure to the rear wheels to prevent lock-up.
NORMAL BRAKING Since the RWAL valve also
performs the EVBP or proportioning function, vehicle
deceleration under normal braking may be sufficient
to trigger the EVBP function of the RWAL system
without full RWAL activity as would normally occur
during an impending rear wheel lock-up. As previ-
ously mentioned, the isolation valve is selectively
closed and opened to increase rear brake pressure in
proportion to the front brake pressure under EVBP
control. Slight brake pedal pulsations may be noticed
as the isolation valve is opened.
REMOVAL
(1) Install a prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Disconnect the battery cables from the battery.
(3) Remove the battery.
(4) Disconnect the electrical harness connector
(Fig. 6).
(5) Remove the brake lines from the rwal valve
(Fig. 6).
(6) Remove rwal valve mounting nuts and remove
the rwal valve (Fig. 6).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install rwal valve and Tighten the nuts to 15
N´m (11 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 6).(2) Install the brake lines to the rwal valve and
tighten to 19 N´m (170 in. lbs.) (Fig. 6).
(3) Install the electrical harness connector to the
rwal valve and secure the connector.
(4) Install the battery.
(5) Install the battery cables to the battery.
(6) Remove the prop rod on the brake pedal.
(7) Bleed ABS brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 6 RWAL VALVE
1 - RWAL VALVE
2 - MOUNTING NUTS
DRBRAKES - ABS 5 - 45
RWAL VALVE (Continued)

CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain
another disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and
consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tighten-
ing.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with turning equipment. Remove only
enough material to reduce scoring (approximately
0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal isnot rec-
ommended.Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe
and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive
stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or
warpage after installation; it can also weaken the fly-
wheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.DIAGNOSIS CHART
The diagnosis charts Diagnosis Chart describe
common clutch problems, causes and correction.
Fault conditions are listed at the top of each chart.
Conditions, causes and corrective action are outlined
in the indicated columns.
The charts are provided as a convenient reference
when diagnosing faulty clutch operation.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Disc facing worn out 1. Normal wear. 1. Replace cover and disc.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips) the
clutch. Results in rapid overheating
and wear.2. Replace cover and disc.
3. Insufficient clutch cover
diaphragm spring tension.3. Replace cover and disc.
Clutch disc facing contaminated with
oil, grease, or clutch fluid.1. Leak at rear main engine seal or
transmission input shaft seal.1. Replace appropriate seal.
2. Excessive amount of grease
applied to the input shaft splines.2. Remove grease and apply the
correct amount of grease.
3. Road splash, water entering
housing.3. Replace clutch disc. Clean clutch
cover and reuse if in good condition.
4. Slave cylinder leaking. 4. Replace hydraulic clutch linkage.
Clutch is running partially
disengaged.1. Release bearing sticking or
binding and does not return to the
normal running position.1. Verify failure. Replace the release
bearing and transmission front
bearing retainer as necessary.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 3
CLUTCH (Continued)

(6) Install the clutch housing dust shield to the
clutch housing.
(7) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
(2) Remove spring clip.
(3) Disconnect release bearing from release fork
and remove bearing (Fig. 17).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect bearing slide surface on transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur-
face is scored, worn, or cracked.
(2) Inspect release lever and pivot stud. Be sure
stud is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is
not distorted or worn. Replace fork spring clips if
bent or damaged.
(3) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, lever pivot ball stud, and release lever
pivot surface with Moparthigh temperature bearing
grease.
(4) Install release fork and release bearing (Fig.
18). Be sure fork and bearing are properly secured by
spring clips. Also be sure that the release fork is
installed properly. The rear side of the release lever
has one end with a raised area. This raised area goes
toward the slave cylinder side of the transmission.
(5) Install clutch housing, if removed.(6) Install transmission and transfer case.
(7) Check clutch master cylinder fluid level.
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
Fig. 17 CLUTCH RELEASE COMPONENTS
1 - CONED WASHER
2 - CLUTCH HOUSING
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING AND SLEEVE
5 - PIVOT 23 N´m (200 IN. LBS.)
6 - SPRING CLIP
Fig. 18 Clutch Release Fork And
1 - PIVOT BALL
2 - FORK
3 - SLAVE CYLINDER OPENING
4 - BEARING
DRCLUTCH 6 - 11
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch.
(3) Remove flywheel bolts and remove flywheel.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2) Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press
plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install flywheel on the crank shaft.
(2) Install flywheel bolts and tighten to 95 N´m (70
ft. lbs.).
(3) Install clutch.
(4) Install transmission.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove clutch disc.
(3) Use a suitable blind hole puller to remove pilot
bearing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean bearing bore with solvent and wipe dry
with shop towel.
(2) Install new bearing with clutch alignment tool
(Fig. 19). Drive bearing into place with the letter side
of the bearing facing the transmission. Bearing
should be flush with edge of bearing bore.
CAUTION: Do not allow bearing to become cocked
and do not recess bearing.
6 - 12 CLUTCHDR
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

(3) Install clutch disc, pressure plate and trans-
mission.
LINKAGE
REMOVAL
CAUTION: The hydraulic linkage has a quick dis-
connect at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
never be disconnected or tampered with. Once the
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should never be disconnected.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 20).
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(4) Remove plastic clip securing the hydraulic line
to the dash panel from the lower dash panel flange.
(5) Remove plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel from the upper dash panel stud.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires
(Fig. 21).
(8) Remove clutch master cylinder rod pin.
(9) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reser-
voir is tight. This will avoid spillage during removal.
(10) Remove clutch master cylinder nuts holding
the to the dash panel.(11) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and con-
necting lines from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position cylinders and connecting line in vehi-
cle engine compartment. Position clutch hydraulic
line against the dash panel and behind all engine
hoses and wiring.
(2) Apply a light coating of grease to the inside
diameter of the master cylinder push rod eye.
(3) Install clutch master cylinder on dash panel
and tighten clutch master cylinder nuts to 28 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install clutch master cylinder push rod pin.
(5) Connect clutch pedal position interlock switch
wires.
Fig. 19 PILOT BEARING
1 - PILOT BEARING
2 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
3 - LETTER SIDE MUST FACE TRANSMISSION
Fig. 20 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - MOUNTING NUTS
2 - SLAVE CYLINDER
Fig. 21 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
1 - MASTER CYLINDER
2 - INTERLOCK CONNECTOR
3 - ROD PIN
DRCLUTCH 6 - 13
PILOT BEARING (Continued)

(6) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel into the lower dash panel flange.
(7) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel onto the upper dash panel stud.
(8) Raise vehicle.
(9) Install slave cylinder and verify cylinder rod is
properly seated in release lever.
(10) Install and tighten slave cylinder nuts to 23
N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(11) Ifnewclutch linkage is being installed, con-
nect the clutch hydraulic line to the clutch slave cyl-
inder.
CAUTION: Once the clutch hydraulic line is con-
nected to the slave cylinder, it should never be dis-
connected.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A clutch pedal position (interlock) switch is
mounted on the clutch master cylinder push rod (Fig.
22). The switch is actuated by clutch pedal move-
ment.
OPERATION
The clutch pedal position switch is used to prevent
starter motor engagement unless the clutch pedal is
depressed.
An input from this switch is also used to either
shut down and/or prevent operation of the speed con-
trol system when the clutch pedal is depressed.
The position switch is an integral part of the clutch
master cylinder push rod and is not serviced sepa-
rately.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
(1) Locate clutch switch 2-wire electrical connector.
This will be the test point. This connector is attached
to pedal support bracket located under instrument
panel to left of clutch pedal (Fig. 23). Disconnect wir-
ing at this point.
(2) Check for switch continuity with an ohmmeter
while operating clutch pedal up and down. Continu-
ity should be broken and reapplied each time pedal is
pressed.
(3) If continuity is not present, or is always
present at any pedal position, replace switch. Switch
is not serviced separately. Replace clutch master
cylinder.
Fig. 22 LOCATION, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
1 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
2 - CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
Fig. 23 CLUTCH SWITCH TEST POINT
1 - PEDAL SUPPORT BRACKET
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
6 - 14 CLUTCHDR
LINKAGE (Continued)

(5) Remove pulley bolt. Remove pulley from ten-
sioner.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install pulley and pulley bolt to tensioner.
Tighten bolt to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install tensioner assembly to mounting
bracket. An indexing tab is located on back of ten-
sioner. Align this tab to slot in mounting bracket.
Tighten nut to 67 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Connect all wiring to ignition coil.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to coil case, coil
mounting bolts must be torqued.
(4) Install coil to coil bracket. If nuts and bolts are
used to secure coil to coil bracket, tighten to 11 N´m
(100 in. lbs.) torque. If coil mounting bracket has
been tapped for coil mounting bolts, tighten bolts to 5
N´m (50 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Install drive belt. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/AC-
CESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(6) Check belt indexing marks (Fig. 4).
BELT TENSIONERS - 5.9L
DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
Drive belts on all engines are equipped with a
spring loaded automatic belt tensioner (Fig. 5). This
tensioner maintains constant belt tension at all times
and requires no maintenance or adjustment.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to check belt tension with
a belt tension gauge on vehicles equipped with an
automatic belt tensioner.
OPERATION
WARNING: THE AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONER
ASSEMBLY IS SPRING LOADED. DO NOT ATTEMPT
TO DISASSEMBLE THE TENSIONER ASSEMBLY.
The automatic belt tensioner maintains correct belt
tension using a coiled spring within the tensioner
housing. The spring applies pressure to the tensioner
arm pressing the arm into the belt, tensioning the
belt.
Fig. 4 Tensioner Indexing Marks And Mounting Nut
1 - TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
2 - TENSIONER MOUNTING NUT
3 - INDEXING ARROW
4 - INDEXING MARK
Fig. 5 Belt
1 - GENERATOR
2 - WATER PUMP
3 - IDLER
4 - POWER STEERING PUMP
5 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER
6 - A/C COMPRESSOR
7 - 24 ACCESSORY DRIVEDR
BELT TENSIONERS - 5.9L (Continued)

CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are
claimed to improve engine cooling.
OPERATION
Coolant flows through the engine block absorbing
the heat from the engine, then flows to the radiator
where the cooling fins in the radiator transfers the
heat from the coolant to the atmosphere. During cold
weather the ethylene-glycol or propylene-glycol cool-
ant prevents water present in the cooling system
from freezing within temperatures indicated by mix-
ture ratio of coolant to water.
COOLANT RECOVERY
CONTAINER-5.9L
DESCRIPTION
The coolant reserve/overflow tank is mounted on
top of the fan shroud, and is made of high tempera-
ture plastic (Fig. 1).
OPERATION
The coolant reserve/overflow system works in con-
junction with the radiator pressure cap. It utilizes
thermal expansion and contraction of coolant to keep
coolant free of trapped air. It provides a volume for
expansion and contraction of coolant. It also providesa convenient and safe method for checking coolant
level and adjusting level at atmospheric pressure.
This is done without removing the radiator pressure
cap. The system also provides some reserve coolant
to the radiator to cover minor leaks and evaporation
or boiling losses.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is formed in the
cooling system of both the radiator and engine. Cool-
ant will then be drawn from the coolant tank and
returned to a proper level in the radiator.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove recovery hose from radiator.
(2) Remove the coolant container to fan shroud
mounting bolt.
(3) Tilt the container backward towards the engine
to disengage the mounting pin locking features and
lift the container away from the fan shroud (Fig. 1).
INSTALLATION
(1) Align the coolant container mounting pins into
the slots on the fan shroud and push the container
onto the fan shroud.
(2) Secure the container to the fan shroud with the
bolt. Tighten to 8.5N´m (75 in-lbs).
NOTE: Ensure that the locking feature on the
mounting pins has engaged.
(3) Connect the recovery hose to the radiator (Fig.
1).
COOLANT DEGAS
CONTAINER-3.7L/4.7L
DESCRIPTION
The coolant degas container is mounted on top of
the fan shroud and is made of high temperatyre plas-
tic (Fig. 2).
OPERATION
The coolant degas system works in parallel with
the radiator. It is fed through a vent line connected
to the top of the radiator inlet tank and returns to
the engine/coolant pump via the heater return hoses.
This plumbing arrangement, together with the inlet
thermostat, provides for constant flow through the
degas container whenever the engine is running. The
air space in the top of the degas container serves sev-
eral functions. It provides a volume for the expansion
of coolant during engine operation. It provides a
space for quick de-aeration of the coolant. Since the
container is the highest point in the cooling system,
any air trapped in the coolant will quickly be trans-
ported to the degas container and be separated out.
Fig. 1 Coolant Recovery Bottle Ð 5.9L
1 - SCREW
2 - COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
3 - RADIATOR/RADIATOR CAP
4 - FAN SHROUD
7 - 38 ENGINEDR
COOLANT (Continued)

The air space also acts as sort of a spring that pro-
vides constant system pressurization in conjunction
with the radiator cap on top of the container. By
returning coolant to the pump side of the inlet ther-
mostat, the degas container also supplies greater
pressure to the coolant pump, providing for enhanced
coolant flow at high engine speeds.
The degas container also provides a convenient and
safe method for checking the coolant level with out
removing the radiator pressure cap. The degas con-
tainer does not require a separate overflow container
since it was designed with enough volume to provide
a coolant reserve and also protect for any after-boil
conditions.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain enough coolant from the system so that
the degas container is empty. Refer to Draining Cool-
ing System 3.7L/4.7L Engines in this group
(2) Loosen the clamps securing the supply and
return hoses to the container and remove the hoses.
(3) Remove the coolant container to fan shroud
mounting bolts.
(4) Tilt the container back towards the engine to
disengage the mounting pin locking features and lift
the container away from the fan shroud.
INSTALLATION
(1) Align the mounting pins into the slots on the
fan shroud and push the container into the fan
shroud.
(2) Secure the coolant container to the fan shroud
with bolts. Tighten to 8.5 N-m (75 in. lbs).
NOTE: Ensure the locking feature on the mounting
pins has engaged.
(3) Connect the supply and return hoses to the
container and ensure that the hose clamps are posi-
tioned properly.
(4) Refill the cooling system(Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
RADIATOR FAN
REMOVAL
CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced
because of mechanical damage, the cooling fan
blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue
cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan
blade assembly if any of these conditions are
found. Also inspect water pump bearing and shaft
assembly for any related damage due to a viscous
fan drive malfunction.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Remove coolant reserve/overflow container from
fan shroud and lay aside.Do Notdisconnect the
hoses or drain coolant from the container.
(3) The thermal viscous fan drive/fan blade assem-
bly is attached (threaded) to the water pump hub
shaft (Fig. 4). Remove the fan blade/viscous fan drive
assembly from the water pump by turning the
mounting nut counterclockwise as viewed from the
front. Threads on the viscous fan drive areRIGHT-
HAND.A 36 MM Fan Wrench should be used to pre-
vent pulley from rotating (Fig. 3).
(4)Do Notattempt to remove the fan/viscous fan
drive assembly from the vehicle at this time.
(5)Do Notunbolt the fan blade assembly (Fig. 4)
from viscous fan drive at this time.
(6) Remove the fan shroud-to-radiator mounting
bolts.
(7) Pull the lower shroud mounts out of the radia-
tor tank clips.
(8) Remove the fan shroud and fan blade/viscous
fan drive assembly as a complete unit from vehicle.
(9) After removing the fan blade/viscous fan drive
assembly,do notplace the viscous fan drive in a
horizontal position. If stored horizontally, silicone
Fig. 2 Coolant Degas Container
1 - SCREWS
2 - COOLANT DEGAS CONTAINER
3 - FAN SHROUD
4 - RADIATOR
DRENGINE 7 - 39
COOLANT DEGAS CONTAINER-3.7L/4.7L (Continued)

fluid in the viscous fan drive could drain into its
bearing assembly and contaminate lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not remove water pump pulley-to-wa-
ter pump bolts. This pulley is under spring tension.
(10) Remove four bolts securing fan blade assem-
bly to viscous fan drive (Fig. 4).CAUTION: Some engines equipped with serpentine
drive belts have reverse rotating fans and viscous
fan drives. They are marked with the word
REVERSE to designate their usage. Installation of
the wrong fan or viscous fan drive can result in
engine overheating.
CLEANING
Clean the fan blades using a mild soap and water.
Do not use an abrasive to clean the blades.
INSPECTION
WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BEND OR
STRAIGHTEN FAN BLADES IF FAN IS NOT WITHIN
SPECIFICATIONS.
CAUTION: If fan blade assembly is replaced
because of mechanical damage, water pump and
viscous fan drive should also be inspected. These
components could have been damaged due to
excessive vibration.
(1) Remove fan blade assembly from viscous fan
drive unit (six bolts).
(2) Lay fan on a flat surface with leading edge fac-
ing down. With tip of blade touching flat surface,
replace fan if clearance between opposite blade and
surface is greater than 2.0 mm (.090 inch). Rocking
motion of opposite blades should not exceed 2.0 mm
(.090 inch). Test all blades in this manner.
(3) Inspect fan assembly for cracks, bends, or bro-
ken welds. Replace fan if any damage is found.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install fan blade assembly to the viscous fan
drive. Tighten the bolts (Fig. 4) to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(2) Position the fan shroud and the fan blade/vis-
cous fan drive assembly to the vehicle as a complete
unit.
(3) Install the fan shroud.
(4) Install the fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly
to the water pump shaft (Fig. 4).
(5) Install the coolant reserve/overflow container
to the fan shroud.
(6) Connect the negative battery cable.
NOTE:
Viscous Fan Drive Fluid Pump Out Requirement:
After installing a new viscous fan drive, bring the
engine speed up to approximately 2000 rpm and
hold for approximately two minutes. This will
ensure proper fluid distribution within the drive.
Fig. 3 Using Special Tool 6958 Spanner Wrench
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WRENCH WITH ADAPTER
PINS 8346
2-FAN
Fig. 4 Fan Blade/Viscous Fan Drive - Gas Engines -
Typical
1 - WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE
2 - FAN BLADE ASSEMBLY
3 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
4 - WATER PUMP AND PULLEY
7 - 40 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR FAN (Continued)