Front suspension DODGE RAM 2003 Service Owner's Guide

SPRING
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle. Position a
hydraulic jack under the axle to support it.
(2) Paint or scribe alignment marks on lower sus-
pension arm cam adjusters and axle bracket for
installation reference.
(3) Remove the upper suspension arm and loosen
lower suspension arm bolts.
(4) Mark and disconnect the front propeller shaft
from the axle 4x4 models.
(5) Disconnect the track bar from the frame rail
bracket.
(6) Disconnect the drag link from pitman arm.
(7) Disconnect the stabilizer bar link and shock
absorber from the axle.
(8) Lower the axle until the spring is free from the
upper mount. Remove the coil spring.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the coil spring on the axle pad.
(2) Raise the axle into position until the spring
seats in the upper mount.
(3) Connect the stabilizer bar links and shock
absorbers to the axle bracket. Connect the track bar
to the frame rail bracket.
(4) Install the upper suspension arm.
(5) Install the front propeller shaft to the axle 4x4
model.
(6) Install drag link to pitman arm and tighten
nut to specifications. Install new cotter pin.
(7) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(8) Tighten the following suspension components
to specifications:
²Link to stabilizer bar nut.
²Lower shock bolt.
²Track bar bolt at axle shaft tube bracket.
²Upper suspension arm nut at axle bracket.
²Upper suspension nut at frame bracket.
²Align lower suspension arm reference marks and
tighten cam nut.
²Lower suspension nut at frame bracket.Fig. 18 Shock Absorber and Bracket
1 - GROMMET
2 - RETAINER
3 - BRACKET
4 - RETAINER
5 - SHOCK
6 - GROMMET
Fig. 19 Shock Absorber Axle Mount
1 - SHOCK
2 - SPRING
3 - FLAG NUT
4 - SHOCK BOLT
2 - 36 FRONT - LINK/COILDR
SHOCK (Continued)

REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR
DESCRIPTION.........................38
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK.............................38
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................39
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................39
JOUNCE BUMPER
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................40
AUXILIARY SPRING BUMPERS (3500)
REMOVAL.............................40INSTALLATION.........................40
SHOCK
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................40
SPRING
DESCRIPTION.........................41
OPERATION...........................41
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................41
SPRING TIP INSERTS
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................42
REAR
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension is comprised of:
²Shock Absorbers
²Jounce Bumpers
²Stabilizer Bar (optional)
²Leaf Springs
²Auxiliary Leaf Spring (3500 series)
²Auxiliary Spring Bumpers (3500 series)
²Drive Axle
CAUTION: A vehicle should always be loaded so
the vehicle weight center-line is located immedi-
ately forward of the rear axle. Correct vehicle load-
ing provides proper front tire-to-road contact. This
results in maximum vehicle handling stability and
safety. Incorrect vehicle weight distribution can
cause excessive tire tread wear, spring fatigue or
failure, and erratic steering.
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings (except stabilizer bar) should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is
important to have the springs supporting the weight
of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The spring eye and shock absorber bushings do not
require any type of lubrication. Do not attempt to
stop spring bushing noise by lubricating them.
Grease and mineral oil-base lubricants will deterio-
rate the bushing rubber.
If the vehicle is used for severe, off-road operation,
the springs should be examined periodically. Check
for broken and shifted leafs, loose and missing clips,
and broken center bolts. Refer to Spring and Shock
Absorber Diagnosis chart for additional information.
2 - 38 REARDR

SPRING
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension system uses a multi-leaf
springs and a solid drive axle. The forward end of the
springs are mounted to the body rail hangers
through rubber bushings. The rearward end of the
springs are attached to the body by the use of shack-
les. The spring and shackles use rubber bushings.
OPERATION
The springs control ride quality and maintain vehi-
cle ride height. The shackles allow the springs to
change their length as the vehicle moves over various
road conditions.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Support the axle with a suitable holding fix-
ture.
(3) Remove the nuts, spring clamp bolts and the
plate that attach the spring to the axle (Fig. 4).
(4) Remove the nuts and bolts from the spring
front and rear shackle (Fig. 4).
(5) Remove the spring from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position spring on axle shaft tube so spring
center bolt is inserted into the locating hole in the
axle tube.
(2)
Align the front of the spring with the bolt hole in
the front bracket. Install the eye pivot bolt and nut.
(3) Align the rear of the spring into the shackle
and install the bolt and nut.
(4) Tighten the spring front and rear eye pivot bolt
snug do not torque.
(5) Install the spring clamp bolts, plate and the
retaining nuts.
(6) Remove the holding fixture for the rear axle.
(7) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle so
that the weight is being supported by the tires.
(8) Tighten the spring clamp retaining nuts to 149
N´m (110 ft. lbs.).
(9) Tighten the spring front and rear pivot bolt
nuts to 163 N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
SPRING TIP INSERTS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove both rear tireand wheel assemblies
(3)
Position a large C-Clamp adjacent to the spring
clinch clip and clamp the leaves of the spring together
CAUTION: When working on the front leaf spring
clinch clamps finish the front before starting on the
rear to prevent personal injury.
(4) Use an appropriate pry bar to bend open the
spring clinch clip (Fig. 5). If necessary, remove the
existing spring clinch clip isolators.
Fig. 4 REAR SPRING
1 - LEAF SPRING
2 - PLATE
3 - NUTS
4 - FRONT NUT & BOLT
5 - SPRING CLAMP BOLTS
6 - SHACKLES
Fig. 5 C-CLAMP AND PRY BAR
1 - REAR LEAF SPRING CLINCH CLAMP
2-PRYBAR
3 - C-CLAMP
DRREAR 2 - 41

HALF SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION.............................11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................11
REMOVAL.............................11
INSTALLATION.........................12
SPECIFICATIONS.......................12
SPECIAL TOOLS.......................12CV JOINT-OUTER
REMOVAL.............................13
INSTALLATION.........................13
CV JOINT-INNER
REMOVAL.............................16
INSTALLATION.........................16
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION
CAUTION:: Never grasp half shaft assembly by the
boots. This may cause the boot to pucker or crease
and reduce the service life of the boot.
Avoid over angulating or stroking the C/V joints
when handling the half shaft.
Half shafts exposed to battery acid, transmission
fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid or gasoline may
cause the boots to deteriorate.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check for grease at the inboard and outboard C/V
joint. This is a sign of boot or boot clamp damage.
NOISE/VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise or a vibration in turns could be
caused by a damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint
seal boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the
loss/contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint. Noise could also
be caused by another component of the vehicle com-
ing in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a result of a damaged or worn
C/V joint. A torn boot or loose/missing clamp on the
inner/outer joint which has allowed the grease to be
lost will damage the C/V joint.
SHUDDER/VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This problem could be a result of a worn/damaged
inner tripod joint or a sticking tripod joint. Improper
wheel alignment may also cause a shudder or vibra-
tion.
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of out of balance
front tires or tire/wheel runout. Foreign material
(mud, etc.) packed on the backside of the wheel(s)
will also cause a vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) Loosen lug nuts and hub nut while the with
the vehicle brakes applied.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove wheel and tire assembly
(4) Remove half shaft hub nut.
(5) Remove brake caliper and rotor.
(6) Position hydraulic jack under lower suspension
arm and raise jack to unload rebound bumper.
(7) Remove lower shock absorber bolt.
(8) Remove upper ball joint nut and seperate ball
with Remover 8677 (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1 UPPER BALL JOINT SEPARATION
1 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
2 - REMOVER
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
DRHALF SHAFT 3 - 11

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Gear Teeth Broke 1. Overloading. 1. Replace gears. Examine other
gears and bearings for possible
damage.
2. Erratic clutch operation. 2. Replace gears and examine the
remaining parts for damage. Avoid
erratic clutch operation.
3. Ice-spotted pavement. 3. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage.
4. Improper adjustments. 4. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage. Ensure
ring gear backlash is correct.
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion
contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched
ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing
pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components
and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
tot he proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
REMOVAL
(1) Place transmission in netural.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove tire and wheel assemblies.
(4) Remove axle half shafts.
(5) Remove exhaust crossover.
(6) Mark front propeller shaft and remove shaft.
(7) Remove suspension crossmember mounting
bolts (Fig. 1) and remove crossmember.
(8) Support axle with hydraulic jack.
(9) Remove axle housing pinion mounting bolts
(Fig. 2).
(10) Remove axle shaft tube mounting bolts (Fig.
3).
(11) Remove differential housing mounting bolts
(Fig. 4).
(12) Lower axle from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Raise axle into position.
(2) Install axle mounting bolts and tighten nuts to
95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install suspension crossmember and bolts.
Tighten crossmember nuts to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install front propeller shaft with reference
marks aligned (Fig. 5) and tighten bolts to 115 N´m
(85 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install exhaust crossover.
(6) Install axle half shafts.
(7) Check the differential fluid level and add fluid
if necessary.
(8) Install tire and wheel assemblies.
(9) Remove support lower the vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring gear and pinion are supplied as matched sets
only. The identifying numbers for the ring gear and
DRFRONT AXLE - C205F 3 - 21
FRONT AXLE - C205F (Continued)

pinion are painted onto the pinion gear shaft and the
side of the ring gear. A plus (+) number, minus (±)
number or zero (0) along with the gear set sequence
number (01 to 99) is on each gear. This first number
is the amount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth
varies from the standard depth setting of a pinion
marked with a (0). The next two numbers are the
sequence number of the gear set. The standard set-
ting from the center line of the ring gear to the backface of the pinion is 99.690 mm (3.925 in.). The stan-
dard depth provides the best teeth contact pattern.
Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with select shims. The shims are placed
Fig. 1 SUSPENSION CROSSMEMBER
1 - PINION FLANGE
2 - AXLE TUBE MOUNTING BRACKET
3 - CROSSMEMBER BOLTS
Fig. 2 HOUSING PINION MOUNTING BOLTS
1 - MOUNTING BOLTS
2 - PINION FLANGE
Fig. 3 AXLE TUBE MOUNT
1 - MOUNTING BOLTS
2 - BOLTS
Fig. 4 DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT
1 - DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT
2 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
3 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - 22 FRONT AXLE - C205FDR
FRONT AXLE - C205F (Continued)

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Gear Teeth Broke 1. Overloading. 1. Replace gears. Examine other
gears and bearings for possible
damage.
2. Erratic clutch operation. 2. Replace gears and examine the
remaining parts for damage. Avoid
erratic clutch operation.
3. Ice-spotted pavement. 3. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage.
4. Improper adjustments. 4. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage. Ensure
ring gear backlash is correct.
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion
contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched
ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing
pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components
and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
tot he proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove wheels and tires.
(2) Remove brake calipers and rotors.
(3) Disconnect ABS wheel speed sensors.
(4) Disconnect axle vent hose.
(5) Remove front propeller shaft.
(6) Disconnect stabilizer bar links at the axle
brackets.
(7) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle brackets.
(8) Disconnect track bar from the axle bracket.
(9) Disconnect tie rod and drag link from the steer-
ing knuckles.
(10) Position suitable lifting device under the axle
assembly.
(11) Secure axle to lifting device.
(12) Mark suspension alignment cams for installa-
tion reference.
(13) Disconnect upper and lower suspension arms
from the axle bracket.(14) Lower the axle. The coil springs will drop
with the axle.
(15) Remove the coil springs from the axle bracket.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber
bushings should be tightened with the weight of the
vehicle on the suspension, at normal height. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur. Rubber bushings must never
be lubricated.
(1) Support the axle on a suitable lifting device.
(2) Secure axle to lifting device.
(3) Position the axle under the vehicle.
(4) Install springs, retainer clip and bolts.
(5) Raise axle and align it with the spring pads.
3 - 48 FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AADR
FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA (Continued)

(6) Position upper and lower suspension arms in
the axle brackets. Install bolts, nuts and align the
suspension alignment cams to the reference marks.
Do not tighten at this time.
(7) Connect track bar to the axle bracket and
install the bolt. Do not tighten at this time.
(8) Install shock absorber and tighten bolts to 121
N´m (89 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install stabilizer bar link to the axle bracket.
Tighten the nut to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install drag link and tie rod to the steering
knuckles and tighten the nuts to 108 N´m (80 ft.
lbs.).
(11) Install ABS wheel speed sensors.
(12) Install rotors and brake calipers.
(13) Connect the axle vent hose.
(14) Install front propeller shaft.
(15) Check and add differential lubricant, if neces-
sary.
(16) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(17) Remove lower the vehicle.
(18) Tighten upper suspension arm nuts at axle to
149 N´m (110 ft. lbs.). Tighten upper suspension arm
nuts at frame to 149 N´m (110 ft. lbs.).
(19) Tighten lower suspension arm nuts at axle to
190 N´m (140 ft. lbs.). Tighten the lower suspension
arm nuts at frame to 190 N´m (140 ft. lbs.).
(20) Tighten track bar bolt at the axle bracket to
176 N´m (130 ft. lbs.).
(21) Check front wheel alignment.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched
sets only. Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with a select shim. The shim is located
between the rear pinion bearing and the pinion gear
head.
PINION DEPTH MEASUREMENT AND ADJUSTMENT
Measurements are taken with pinion bearing cups
and pinion bearings installed in the housing. Take
measurements with Pinion Gauge Set and Dial Indi-
cator C-3339 (Fig. 1).
(1) Assemble Pinion Height Block 6739, Pinion
Block 8878 and rear pinion bearing onto Screw 6741
(Fig. 1).
(2) Insert assembled height gauge components,
rear bearing and screw into the housing through pin-
ion bearing cups (Fig. 2).
(3) Install front pinion bearing and install the
Cone-nut 6740 hand tight. Then check tool rotating
torque with an inch pound torque wrench. The rotat-
ing torque should be 1.7-2.26 N´m (15-20 in. lbs.)
(4) Place Arbor Disc 8289 on Arbor D-115-3 in posi-
tion in the housing side bearing cradles (Fig. 3).(5) Install differential bearing caps on arbor discs
and snug the bearing cap bolts. Then cross tighten
cap bolts to 85 N´m (63 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 1 PINION GEAR DEPTH GAUGE TOOLS
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
2 - ARBOR
3 - PINION HEIGHT BLOCK
4 - CONE
5 - SCREW
6 - PINION BLOCK
7 - SCOOTER BLOCK
8 - ARBOR DISC
Fig. 2 PINION HEIGHT BLOCK
1. PINION HEIGHT BLOCK
2. PINION BLOCK
DRFRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA 3 - 49
FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER...........20
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER
CYLINDER BLEEDING..................20
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - ALL EXCEPT HYDROBOOST . . . 21
REMOVAL - HYDROBOOST.............21
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - ALL EXCEPT
HYDROBOOST.......................22
INSTALLATION - HYDROBOOST..........22
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION.........................22
OPERATION...........................22
REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................23
ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
DESCRIPTION.........................24
REMOVAL.............................24
INSTALLATION.........................24
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................25
OPERATION...........................25
REMOVAL.............................25
INSTALLATION.........................25
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER...........................25
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING......27
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................27
ROTORS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - REAR.....................28
REMOVAL - FRONT....................28
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - REAR.................28
INSTALLATION - FRONT................29SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION.........................30
OPERATION...........................30
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................31
REMOVAL - REAR PARK BRAKE CABLE . . . 31
REMOVAL - RIGHT REAR CABLE.........31
REMOVAL - LEFT REAR CABLE..........32
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................32
INSTALLATION - REAR PARK BRAKE
CABLE..............................32
INSTALLATION - RIGHT REAR CABLE.....32
INSTALLATION - LEFT REAR CABLE......33
SHOES
REMOVAL.............................33
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE....33
INSPECTION - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE . . 33
INSTALLATION.........................34
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE SHOES . . 34
ADJUSTMENT - WITH ADJUSTING TOOL . . . 36
PEDAL
REMOVAL.............................36
INSTALLATION.........................36
CABLE TENSIONER
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................37
RELEASE HANDLE
REMOVAL.............................38
INSTALLATION.........................38
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEDR

and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that hasbecome covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)