ESP DODGE RAM 2003 Service Manual PDF

(11) Remove the rear oil seal retainer(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT REAR
OIL SEAL RETAINE - REMOVAL).
(12) Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil
seal.
(13) Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil
seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Select the proper main bearings(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Install main bearings in block and caps, and
lubricate bearings.
(3) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(4) Install the thrust washers.
NOTE: The main cap crossbolts are torqued after
final torque of the main cap bolts. Always use a
new washer/seal on crossbolts.
(5) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main
bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten in two steps using the following sequence
(Fig. 8).
²Step1±27N´m(20ft. lbs.) torque.
²Step2±Turnmain cap bolts an additional 90É.
(6) Install the crossbolts with new washer/gasket.
Starting with crossbolt A (Fig. 8) torque each cross-
bolt to 28 N´m torque.
(7) Repeat crossbolt torque procedure.(8) Measure crankshaft end play(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Position the connecting rods onto the crank-
shaft and install the rod bearing caps(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECT-
ING ROD - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install timing drive(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install oil pump and pickup(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLA-
TION).
(12) Install the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the oil pan(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install the rear main seal and retainer.
(15) Install the vibration damper.
(16) Install the engine(Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
INSTALLATION).
CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARING - FITTING
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER
(CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)
Crankshaft removed from the cylinder block.
Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.
Determine the maximum diameter of the journal
with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90É
apart at each end of the journal.
The maximum allowable taper is 0.008mm (0.0004
inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005mm (0.0002
inch). Compare the measured diameter with the jour-
nal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting
Chart). Select inserts required to obtain the specified
bearing-to-journal clearance.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SELECTION
The main bearings are ªselect fitº to achieve proper
oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crank-
shaft counterweight has grade identification marks
stamped into it. These marks are read from left to
right, corresponding with journal number 1, 2, 3, 4
and 5.
NOTE: Service main bearings are coded. These
codes identify what size (grade) the bearing is.
Fig. 8 MAINCAP TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
1 - Stud Location
9 - 202 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Remove the PCV valve from the IAFM. Cap or
plug the PCV valve grommet.
(2) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(3) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(4) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(5) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve.
(6) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
SERVICE
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 215
LUBRICATION (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) If tensioner assembly is being replaced, install
tensioner and mounting bolts. Torque bolts to 28 N´m
(250 in. lbs.).
(2) Retract tensioner if required.
CAUTION: The camshaft pin and the slot in the cam
sprocket must be clocked at 12:00. The crankshaft
keyway must be clocked at 2:00. The crankshaft
sprocket must be installed so that the dots and or
paint marking is at 6:00.
(3) Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft
sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact
imaginary center line through both camshaft and
crankshaft bores (Fig. 32).
CAUTION: The timing chain must be installed with
the single plated link aligned with the dot and or
paint marking on the camshaft sprocket. The crank-
shaft sprocket is aligned with the dot and or paint
marking on the sprocket between two plated timing
chain links.
(4) Place timing chain around both sprockets (Fig.
32).
(5) Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight
against the chain in position as shown).(6) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respec-
tive shafts and check alignment of timing marks.
(7) Install the camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to
122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8)Remove tensioner pin.Again, verify align-
ment of timing marks.
(9) Install the oil pump(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the oil pan and pick up(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Install the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(12) Fill cooling system(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(13) Connect battery negative cable.
(14) Start engine and check for oil and coolant
leaks.
TIMING CHAIN/TENSIONER
DESCRIPTION
The timing chain tensioner is a stamped steel con-
stant tension mechanical design. It is mounted to the
front of the engine, behind the timing chain drive.
OPERATION
The timing chain tension is maintained by routing
the timing chain through the tensioner assembly. A
nylon covered spring steel arm presses on the timing
chain maintaining the correct chain tension.
Fig. 32 5.7L TIMING MARK ALIGNMENT
1 - Chain Tensioner
2 - Camshaft Sprocket
3 - Crankshaft Sprocket
9 - 222 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
TIMING/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

DISTRIBUTOR BUSHING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove distributor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/DISTRIBUTOR - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(3) Insert Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing Puller
Tool C-3052 into old bushing and thread down until a
tight fit is obtained (Fig. 34).
(4) Hold puller screw and tighten puller nut until
bushing is removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide new bushing over burnishing end of Dis-
tributor Drive Shaft Bushing Driver/Burnisher Tool
C-3053. Insert the tool and bushing into the bore.
(2) Drive bushing and tool into position, using a
hammer (Fig. 35).
(3) As the burnisher is pulled through the bushing,
the bushing is expanded tight in the block and bur-
nished to correct size (Fig. 36).DO NOT ream this
bushing.CAUTION: This procedure MUST be followed when
installing a new bushing or seizure to shaft may
occur.
(4) Install the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the distributor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/DISTRIBUTOR -
INSTALLATION).
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐHYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
Fig. 34 Distributor Driveshaft Bushing Removal
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3052
2 - BUSHING
Fig. 35 Distributor Driveshaft Bushing Installation
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3053
2 - BUSHING
Fig. 36 Burnishing Distributor Driveshaft Bushing
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3053
2 - BUSHING
9 - 258 ENGINE - 5.9LDR

(5) Raise the transmission enough to remove the
mount from the crossmember.
(6) Remove the mount.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Threadlocking compound must be applied to
the bolts before installation.
(1) Install the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the transmission bracket.
(2) Torque the bolts to 61N´m (45 ft.lbs.) torque.
(3) Lower the transmission so the transmission
mount rests on the crossmember, and the studs of
the transmission mount are aligned in the slots in
the crossmember.
(4) Install the nuts onto the transmission mount
studs through the crossmember access slot.
(5) Torque the nuts to 54N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
A gear-type positive displacement pump (Fig. 51) is
mounted at the underside of the rear main bearing
cap. The pump uses a pick-up tube and screen
assembly to gather engine oil from the oil pan.
OPERATION
The pump draws oil through the screen and inlet
tube from the sump at the rear of the oil pan. The oil
is driven between the drive and idler gears and
pump body, then forced through the outlet to the
block. An oil gallery in the block channels the oil to
the inlet side of the full flow oil filter. After passing
through the filter element, the oil passes from the
center outlet of the filter through an oil gallery that
channels the oil up to the main gallery, which
extends the entire length on the right side of the
block. The oil then goes down to the No. 1 main bear-
ing, back up to the left side of the block, and into the
oil gallery on the left side of the engine.
Galleries extend downward from the main oil gal-
lery to the upper shell of each main bearing. The
crankshaft is drilled internally to pass oil from the
main bearing journals to the connecting rod journals.
Each connecting rod bearing has half a hole in it, oil
passes through the hole when the rods rotate and the
hole lines up, oil is then thrown off as the rod
rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the camshaft
lobes, distributor drive gear, cylinder walls, and pis-
ton pins.
The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly
from the main oil gallery. The camshaft bearings
receive oil from the main bearing galleries. The front
camshaft bearing journal passes oil through the cam-
shaft sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to
the oil pan under the No. 1 main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged
pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve
tappets, which pass oil through hollow push rods to a
hole in the corresponding rocker arm. Oil from the
rocker arm lubricates the valve train components.
The oil then passes down through the push rod guide
holes and the oil drain-back passages in the cylinder
head, past the valve tappet area, and then returns to
the oil pan (Fig. 52).
Fig. 51 Positive Displacement Oil PumpÐTypical
1 - INNER ROTOR AND SHAFT
2 - BODY
3 - DISTRIBUTOR DRIVESHAFT (REFERENCE)
4 - COTTER PIN
5 - RETAINER CAP
6 - SPRING
7 - RELIEF VALVE
8 - LARGE CHAMFERED EDGE
9 - BOLT
10 - COVER
11 - OUTER ROTOR
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 267
REAR MOUNT (Continued)

(5)Install the front and rear end seals (Fig. 70) Make
sure the molded dowel pins on the end seals fully enter the
corresponding holes in the cylinder block.
(6)Carefully lower intake manifold into position on
the cylinder block and cylinder heads. After intake man-
ifold is in place, inspect to make sure seals are in place.
(7) Using a new gasket, install the throttle body
onto the intake manifold. Tighten the bolts to 23 N´m
(200 in. lbs.) torque.(8) Install the intake manifold bolts and tighten as
follows (Fig. 72):
²Step 1. Tighten bolts 1 through 4 to 8 N´m (72
in. lbs.) Tighten in alternating steps 1.4 N´m (12 in.
lbs.) at a time
²Step 2. Tighten bolts 5 through 12 to 8 N´m (72
in. lbs.)
²Step 3. Check all bolts are torqued to 8 N´m (72
in. lbs.)
²Step 4. Tighten all bolts in sequence to 16 N´m
(12 ft. lbs.)
²Step 5. Check all bolts are torqued to 16 N´m
(12 ft. lbs.)
(9) Install closed crankcase ventilation and evapo-
ration control systems.
(10) Connect the coil wires.
(11) Connect the heat indicator sending unit wire.
(12) Connect the heater hoses and bypass hose.
(13) Install distributor cap and wires.
(14) Hook up the return spring.
(15) Connect the accelerator linkage (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/THROTTLE
CONTROL CABLE - INSTALLATION) and if so
Fig. 69 Plenum Pan Bolt Tightening Sequence
Fig. 70 Front and Rear End Seals
1 - FRONT CROSS-OVER GASKET
2 - REAR CROSS-OVER GASKET
Fig. 71 Intake Manifold Flange Gasket Alignment
1 - FLANGE GASKET
2 - ALIGNMENT TABS
3 - CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
9 - 276 ENGINE - 5.9LDR
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove Timing Chain Cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Re-install the vibration damper bolt finger
tight. Using a suitable socket and breaker bar, rotate
the crankshaft to align timing marks as shown in
(Fig. 76).
(4) Remove camshaft sprocket attaching bolt and
remove timing chain with crankshaft and camshaft
sprockets.
INSPECTIONÐMEASURING TIMING CHAIN
STRETCH
(1) Place a scale next to the timing chain so that
any movement of the chain may be measured.
(2) Place a torque wrench and socket over cam-
shaft sprocket attaching bolt. Apply torque in the
direction of crankshaft rotation to take up slack; 41
N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque with cylinder head installed
or 20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) torque with cylinder head
removed. With a torque applied to the camshaft
sprocket bolt, crankshaft should not be permitted to
move. It may be necessary to block the crankshaft to
prevent rotation.
(3) Hold a scale with dimensional reading even
with the edge of a chain link. With cylinder heads
installed, apply 14 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque in the
reverse direction. With the cylinder heads removed,
apply 20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) torque in the reverse direc-
tion. Note the amount of chain movement (Fig. 77).
(4) Install a new timing chain, if its movement
exceeds 3.175 mm (1/8 inch).
INSTALLATION
(1) Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft
sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exactimaginary center line through both camshaft and
crankshaft bores.
(2) Place timing chain around both sprockets.
(3) Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with
keyway location in crankshaft sprocket and in cam-
shaft sprocket.
(4) Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight
against the chain in position as described).
(5) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respec-
tive shafts and use a straightedge to check alignment
of timing marks (Fig. 78).
(6) Install the camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 68
N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Check camshaft end play. The end play should
be 0.051-0.152 mm (0.002-0.006 inch) with a new
thrust plate and up to 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) with a
used thrust plate. If not within these limits install a
new thrust plate.
(8) Install the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
Fig. 76 Alignment of Timing Marks
1 - TIMING MARKS
Fig. 77 Measuring Timing Chain Stretch
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - 3.175 MM
(0.125 IN.)
Fig. 78 Alignment of Timing Marks
1 - TIMING MARKS
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 279

CONNECTING RODS
The connecting rods are a split angle design (Fig.
89). They have a pressed-in-place wrist pin bushing
that is lubricated by piston cooling nozzle oil spray.
There are two different types of connecting rods:
machined and fractured split. The main different
between the two styles is the surface finish on the
connecting rod split face.
Machined connecting rods can be identified by a
machined surface at the connecting rod and cap split
face. Machined connecting rods have numbers
stamped on the rod cap and connecting rod near the
parting line. The number stamped on the connecting
rod must match the number stamped on the rod cap
and be installed on the camshaft or intake side of the
engine.
Fractured split connecting rods are first manufac-
tured as a single piece and then fractured into two
pieces. Fractured split connecting rods can be identi-
fied by a rough and irregular surface at the connect-
ing rod split face. To properly assemble the rod cap to
the connecting rod, the bearing tangs on the connect-
ing rod and cap must be located on the same side of
the rod. The long end of the connecting rod must be
assembled on the intake or camshaft side of the
engine.
Measuring methods and specifications are common
between fractured split and machined connecting
rods.
Both fractures split and machined connecting rods
and caps are machined as an assembly and are not
interchangeable. If a connecting rod or cap is dam-
aged, the entire assembly must be replaced.
Machined and fractured split connecting rods cannot
be used in the same engine.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEAD GASKET
SELECTION
(1) Measure piston protrusion for all six pistons.
(2) Calculate the average piston protrusion. Maxi-
mum allowable protrusion is 0.516 mm (0.020 inch).
NOTE: There are two different head gaskets avail-
able. One gasket is for Average piston protrusion
less than 0.30 mm (0.011 inch). The other gasket is
for Average piston protrusion greater than 0.30 mm
(0.011 inch)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery cables.
(2) Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pan and suction tube (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove bolts and the block stiffener.(5) Using Miller Tool 7471-B crankshaft barring
tool, rotate the crankshaft so all of the pistons are
below TDC.
(6) Before removing the piston(s) from the bore(s):
(a) Remove any carbon ridge formations or
deposits at the top of the bore with a dull scraper
or soft wire brush.
(b) If cylinder bore wear ridges are found, use a
ridge reamer to cut the ridge from the bore. DO
NOT remove more metal than necessary to remove
the ridge.
(7) Remove the J-jet cooling nozzels, if equipped.
NOTE: If cylinders have ridges, the cylinders are
oversize and will more than likely need boring.
(8) Using a hammer and steel stamp, stamp the
cylinder number in the top of each piston. The front
of the piston is identified by a stamping on the top of
the piston. DO NOT stamp in the outside 5 mm (.197
in.) of the piston diameter. DO NOT stamp over the
piston pin.
(9) Mark the connecting rod and cap with the cor-
responding cylinder numbers.
(10) Remove the connecting rod bolts and rod caps.
Use care so the cylinder bores and connecting rods
are not damaged.
Fig. 89 Connecting Rod
9 - 330 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the transmission.
(3) Remove the drive plate / flywheel.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting
bolts.
(6) Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Apply a small amount of MopartSilicone Rub-
ber Adhesive Sealant to the retainer gasket. Position
the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position Special Tool 6687 Seal Guide onto the
crankshaft.
(5) Position the retainer and seal over the guide
and onto the engine block.
(6) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐHYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
9 - 386 ENGINE 8.0LDR

from the center outlet of the filter through an oil gal-
lery that channels the oil up to the tappet galleries,
which extends the entire length of block.
Galleries extend downward from the main oil gal-
lery to the upper shell of each main bearing. The
crankshaft is drilled internally to pass oil from the
main bearing journals to the connecting rod journals.
Each connecting rod bearing has half a hole in it, oil
passes through the hole when the rods rotate and the
hole lines up, oil is then thrown off as the rod
rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the camshaft
lobes, cylinder walls, and piston pins.
The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly
from the main oil gallery. The camshaft bearings
receive oil from the main bearing galleries. The front
camshaft bearing journal passes oil through the cam-
shaft sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to
the oil pan under the No. 1 main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged
pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve
tappets, which pass oil through hollow push rods to a
hole in the corresponding rocker arm. Oil from the
rocker arm lubricates the valve train components.
The oil then passes down through the push rod guide
holes and the oil drain-back passages in the cylinder
head, past the valve tappet area, and then returns to
the oil pan (Fig. 49).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL
LEAKS
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.
(5) If the oil leak source is not positively identified
at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(7) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.
(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
Fig. 48 Pressure Feed Type (Gerotor) Oil PumpÐ
Typical
1 - OUTER ROTOR
2 - INNER ROTOR
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
4 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
9 - 394 ENGINE 8.0LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)