air suspension DODGE RAM 2003 Service Repair Manual

GROUP TAB LOCATOR
Introduction
0Lubrication & Maintenance
2Suspension
3Differential & Driveline
5Brakes
6Clutch
7Cooling
8AAudio
8BChime/Buzzer
8EElectronic Control Modules
8FEngine Systems
8GHeated Systems
8HHorn
8IIgnition Control
8JInstrument Cluster
8LLamps
8MMessage Systems
8NPower Systems
8ORestraints
8PSpeed Control
8QVehicle Theft Security
8RWipers/Washers
8WWiring
9Engine
11Exhaust System
13Frame & Bumpers
14Fuel System
19Steering
21Transmission and Transfer Case
22Tires/Wheels
23Body
24Heating & Air Conditioning
25Emissions Control
Component and System Index
Service Manual Comment Forms (Rear of Manual)

OPERATION
²CASTERis the forward or rearward tilt of the
steering knuckle from vertical. Tilting the top of the
knuckle forward provides less positive caster. Tilting
the top of the knuckle rearward provides more posi-
tive caster. Positive caster promotes directional sta-
bility. This angle enables the front wheels to return
to a straight ahead position after turns (Fig. 1)
²CAMBERis the inward or outward tilt of the
wheel relative to the center of the vehicle. Tilting the
top of the wheel inward provides negative camber.
Tilting the top of the wheel outward provides positive
camber. Incorrect camber will cause wear on the
inside or outside edge of the tire (Fig. 1)
²TOEis the difference between the leading inside
edges and trailing inside edges of the front tires.
Wheel toe position out of specification cause's unsta-
ble steering, uneven tire wear and steering wheel off-
center. The wheel toe position is thefinalfront
wheel alignment adjustment (Fig. 1)
²THRUST ANGLEis the angle of the rear axle
relative to the centerline of the vehicle. Incorrect
thrust angle can cause off-center steering and exces-sive tire wear. This angle is not adjustable, damaged
component(s) must be replaced to correct the thrust
angle (Fig. 1)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRE-ALIGNMENT
INSPECTION
Before starting wheel alignment, the following
inspection and necessary corrections must be com-
pleted. Refer to Suspension and Steering System
Diagnosis Chart below for additional information.
(1) Inspect tires for size, air pressure and tread
wear.
(2) Inspect front wheel bearings for wear.
(3) Inspect front wheels for excessive radial or lat-
eral runout and balance.
(4) Inspect ball studs, linkage pivot points and
steering gear for looseness, roughness or binding.
(5) Inspect suspension components for wear and
noise.
(6) On 4x4 vehicles check suspension height (LD
only).
(7) Road test the vehicle.
SUSPENSION AND STEERING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
FRONT END NOISE 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.3. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
EXCESSIVE PLAY IN
STEERING1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Loose or worn steering gear. 3. Replace steering gear.
FRONT WHEELS SHIMMY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Tires worn or out of balance. 3. Replace or balance tires.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
VEHICLE INSTABILITY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
2 - 2 WHEEL ALIGNMENTDR
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE STEERING
EFFORT1. Loose or worn steering gear. 1. Replace steering gear.
2. Column coupler binding. 2. Replace coupler.
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
VEHICLE PULLS TO ONE
SIDE1. Tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Tire. 2. Criss-Cross Front Tires.
3. Alignment. 3. Align vehicle to specifications.
4. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.4. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
5. Radial tire lead. 5. Rotate or replace tire as necessary.
6. Brake pull. 6. Repair brake as necessary.
7. Weak or broken spring. 7. Replace spring.
8. Ride height (LD) 4WD only. 8. Measure and adjust ride height. (LD
only)
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEIGHT
MEASUREMENT - 4WD (LD)
The vehicle suspension height MUST be measured
and adjusted before performing wheel alignment pro-
cedure. Also when front suspension components have
been replaced. This measure must be performed with
the vehicle supporting it's own weight and taken on
both sides of the vehicle.
(1) Inspect tires and set to correct pressure.
(2) Jounce the front of the vehicle.
(3) Measure and record the height from the ground
at the centerline of the rear lower control arm bolt
front tip (Fig. 2).
(4) Measure and record the height from the ground
at the front spindle centerline (Static Load Radius)
(Fig. 2).
(5) Subtract the first measurement from the sec-
ond measurement. The difference between the two
measurement should be 58 mm (2.3 inches) 3mm
(0.12 inches).
(6) If value is greater than 61 mm (2.4 inches),
tighten the torsion bar bolt until the specification is
achieved (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL
ALIGNMENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) If value is less than 55 mm (2.1 inches), loosen
the torsion bar bolt until the specification is achieve-
d,(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Repeat the previous steps until the ride height
is within specifications.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEIGHT
ADJUSTMENT - 4WD (LD)
The vehicle suspension height MUST be measured
and adjusted before performing wheel alignment pro-
cedure (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGN-
MENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE). Also when
front suspension components have been replaced.
This measurement must be performed with the vehi-
cle supporting it's own weight and taken on both
sides of the vehicle.
Fig. 2 HEIGHT MESUREMENT
1 - HEIGHT FROM THE GROUND AT THE FRONT SPINDLE
CENTERLINE (STATIC LOAD RADIUS)
2 - CENTERLINE OF THE REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLT
FRONT TIP
3 - GROUND LINE
DRWHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 3
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

SHOCK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The shock absorber bushings do not require any
type of lubrication. Do not attempt to stop bushing
noise by lubricating them. Grease and mineral oil-
base lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 4X2
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Support the lower control arm outboard end.
(3) Remove the upper shock absorber nut, retainer
and grommet.
(4) Remove the lower nuts and remove the shock
absorber.
REMOVAL - 4X4
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Support the lower control arm outboard end.
(4) Remove the upper shock nut and with the insu-
lator and retainer (Fig. 27).
(5) Remove the lower shock bolt (Fig. 27).
(6) Remove the shock
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 4X2
NOTE: Upper shock nut must be replaced or use
Mopar Lock 'N Seal or LoctiteT242 on existing nut.(1) Install the lower retainer and grommet on the
shock absorber stud. Insert the shock absorber
through the frame bracket hole.
(2) Install the lower nuts and tighten the nuts to
34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the upper grommet, retainer and new
nut or use Mopar Lock 'N Seal or Loctitet242 on
existing nut, on the shock absorber stud. Tighten nut
to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(4) Remove the support from the lower control arm
outboard end.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - 4X4
(1) Install the upper part of the shock into the
frame bracket with the insulators and retainers (Fig.
27).
(2) Install the nut and Tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft.
lbs.).
(3) Install the lower part of the shock into the
lower control arm and Tighten the bolt to 135 N´m
(100 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 27).
(4) Remove the support from the lower control arm
outboard end.
(5) Install the tire and wheel assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(6) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
Fig. 27 SHOCK 4X4
1 - INSULATOR & RETAINER
2 - NUT
3 - SHOCK ABSORBER
4 - BOLT
DRFRONT - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 23

LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Paint or scribe alignment marks on the cam
adjusters and suspension arm for installation refer-
ence (Fig. 17).
(3) Remove the lower suspension arm nut, cam
and cam bolt from the axle.
(4) Remove the nut and bolt from the frame rail
bracket and remove the lower suspension arm (Fig.
17).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower suspension arm at the axle
bracket and frame rail bracket.
(2) Install the rear bolt and finger tighten the nut.
(3) Install the cam bolt, cam and nut in the axle
and align the reference marks.
(4) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(5) Tighten cam nut at the axle bracket to 217
N´m (160 ft. lbs.). Tighten rear nut at the frame
bracket to 217 N´m (160 ft. lbs.).
SHOCK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The shock absorber bushings do not require any
type of lubrication. Do not attempt to stop bushing
noise by lubricating them. Grease and mineral oil-
base lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the nut, retainer and grommet from
the upper stud in the engine compartment.
(2) Remove three nuts from the upper shock
bracket (Fig. 18).
(3) Remove the lower bolt from the axle bracket
(Fig. 19). Remove the shock absorber from engine
compartment.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower retainer and grommet on the
upper stud. Insert the shock absorber through the
spring from engine compartment.
(2) Install the lower bolt and tighten to 135 N´m
(100 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the upper shock bracket and three nuts.
Tighten nuts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install upper grommet and retainer. Install
upper shock nut and tighten to 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs).
Fig. 17 Adjustment Cam
1 - ADJUSTMENT CAM
2 - AXLE BRACKET
3 - BRACKET REINFORCEMENT
4 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
DRFRONT - LINK/COIL 2 - 35

REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR
DESCRIPTION.........................38
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK.............................38
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................39
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................39
JOUNCE BUMPER
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................40
AUXILIARY SPRING BUMPERS (3500)
REMOVAL.............................40INSTALLATION.........................40
SHOCK
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................40
SPRING
DESCRIPTION.........................41
OPERATION...........................41
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................41
SPRING TIP INSERTS
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................42
REAR
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension is comprised of:
²Shock Absorbers
²Jounce Bumpers
²Stabilizer Bar (optional)
²Leaf Springs
²Auxiliary Leaf Spring (3500 series)
²Auxiliary Spring Bumpers (3500 series)
²Drive Axle
CAUTION: A vehicle should always be loaded so
the vehicle weight center-line is located immedi-
ately forward of the rear axle. Correct vehicle load-
ing provides proper front tire-to-road contact. This
results in maximum vehicle handling stability and
safety. Incorrect vehicle weight distribution can
cause excessive tire tread wear, spring fatigue or
failure, and erratic steering.
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings (except stabilizer bar) should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is
important to have the springs supporting the weight
of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The spring eye and shock absorber bushings do not
require any type of lubrication. Do not attempt to
stop spring bushing noise by lubricating them.
Grease and mineral oil-base lubricants will deterio-
rate the bushing rubber.
If the vehicle is used for severe, off-road operation,
the springs should be examined periodically. Check
for broken and shifted leafs, loose and missing clips,
and broken center bolts. Refer to Spring and Shock
Absorber Diagnosis chart for additional information.
2 - 38 REARDR

and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that hasbecome covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

CAUTION: Do not reuse damaged fasteners, quality
of repair would be suspect. Failure to use only pro-
duction fasteners or fasteners of equivalent hard-
ness can result in loosening or failure. Do not drill
any holes in the frame that are not specifically out-
lined in this or other, DaimlerChrysler procedure as
frame rail failure can result. When using heat to
straighten frame components do not exceed 566ÉC
(1050ÉF), metal fatigue can result.
NOTE: Procedures for 4X2 and 4X4 are common
except as noted in this procedure.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the front wheelhouse splash shield.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEEL-
HOUSE SPLASH SHIELD - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the bolts and position aside the wire
harness and grounds, if required.
(4) Remove the front bumper. (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/FRONT BUMPER
- REMOVAL)
(5) Loosen and lower the stabilizer bar mount and
bar. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/STABI-
LIZER BAR - REMOVAL)
(6) Remove the front cab mount bolt to the Front
End Sheet Metal (FESM) bracket. (Fig. 6)(7) Make a vertical mark on the inside and outside
face of the frame rail 112 mm (4.5 in.) from the for-
ward edge of the PLP hole in the sides of the rail.
(Fig. 8)
(8) Using a straightedge, connect the two lines on
the top and bottom of the rail.
(9) Using the service tip as a guide, re-check your
cut lines to ensure the service tip will fit when the
cut is made.
CAUTION: Do not use any flame or plasma cutting
equipment to cut the frame in this procedure. This
is due to the inaccurate nature of the cut-line and
the fact that the high temperatures achieved during
flame or plasma cutting will change the metal char-
acteristics and may weaken the frame and/or repair
location.
(10) Using a reciprocating saw or equivalent, care-
fully cut and remove the damaged frame rail tip.
(Fig. 7)
Fig. 6 REPLACEMENT FRAME TIP
1 - FRONT END SHEET METAL (FESM) BRACKET
2 - CAB INSULATOR
3 - RING-FILLET WELD/HOLE
4 - PRINCIPLE LOCATING POINT (PLP)
5 - WELD ROOT GAP 4 mm-6mm(0.16 in. - 0.24 in.)
6 - FRONT CAB MOUNT BOLT
7 - REPLACEMENT FRAME TIP
Fig. 7 FRAME CUT LOCATION
1 - REPAIR ROOT OPENING
2 - SERVICE SLEEVE
3 - PRINCIPLE LOCATING POINT (PLP)
4 - SUSPENSION BRACKETS
5 - FRAME
6 - FRAME CUTOFF LOCATION - 112 mm (4.5 in.)
7 - FRAME SERVICE TIP
DRFRAMES & BUMPERS 13 - 5
FRAME (Continued)

(9) Remove the bolts and remove the spare tire
winch. (Fig. 23)
(10) Position the wire harness forward of the work
area.
CAUTION: Do not use any flame or plasma cutting
equipment to cut the frame in this procedure. The
inaccurate and high temperatures achieved during
flame or plasma cutting will change the metal char-
acteristics and may weaken the frame and/or repair
location.
(11) Carefully remove the H-section welds using a
grinder or equivalent tool.
(12) Remove the H-section and clean any remain-
ing welds from the frame.
(13) Trial fit the replacement part.
(14) Remove all e-coat from within 25 mm (1.0 in.)
of the weld area.
(15) Using the appropriate measuring equipment,
position the replacement part and verify correct posi-
tioning in all three (X,Y, and Z) planes of space.(Refer to 13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME - SPEC-
IFICATIONS - FRAME DIMENSIONS)
CAUTION: Shield the surrounding area and compo-
nents from exposure to the welding spatter and
heat.
(16) Weld the replacement H-section into position.
The welding should be performed in a skip (stitch)
type method to minimize the heat buildup following
I-CAR or the American Welding Society welding pro-
cedures and utilizing the process specifications at the
end of this section. Refer to the Weld Process Speci-
fications welding schedule below.
(17) Dress the welded area and apply corrosion
resistant coatings inside and out.
(a) Inside the rail, inject a creeping wax based
rust inhibitor compound through the existing holes
in the frame ensuring 100% coverage including the
mating face between the frame and replacement
H-section.
(b) Apply a durable top coat to the outside of the
repair area.
(18) Position the wiring harness back.
(19) Install the spare tire winch and install the
bolts. (Fig. 23)
(20) Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(21) Install the spare tire winch tube and install
the clip. (Fig. 22)
(22) Install the spare tire.
(23) Lift the axle into position and install the rear
shackle bolts. (Fig. 21)
(24) Tighten the bolts to 163 N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
(25) Install the lower shock absorber bolts. (Refer
to 2 - SUSPENSION/REAR/SHOCK - INSTALLA-
TION)
(26) Install the trailer hitch. (Refer to 13 - FRAME
& BUMPERS/FRAME/TRAILER HITCH - INSTAL-
LATION)
(27) Install the cargo box. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/CARGO BOX - INSTALLATION)
(28) Reconnect the battery ground.
Fig. 23 SPARE TIRE WINCH ASSEMBLY
1 - SPARE TIRE WINCH ASSEMBLY
2 - BOLTS
3 - RETAINER BRACKET
4 - H-SECTION/SPARE WHEEL SUPPORT
13 - 16 FRAMES & BUMPERSDR
FRAME (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER STEERING
SYSTEM
There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound evident at a
standstill parking. Or when the steering wheel is at the end of it's travel. Hiss is a high frequency noise similar
to that of a water tap being closed slowly. The noise is present in all valves that have a high velocity fluid passing
through an orifice. There is no relationship between this noise and steering performance.
STEERING NOISE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OBJECTIONAL HISS OR
WHISTLE1. Steering intermediate shaft to dash panel
seal.1. Check and repair seal at dash
panel.
2. Noisy valve in power steering gear. 2. Replace steering gear.
RATTLE OR CLUNK 1. Gear mounting bolts loose. 1. Tighten bolts to specification.
2. Loose or damaged suspension
components.2. Inspect and repair suspension.
3. Internal gear noise. 3. Replace steering gear.
4. Pressure hose in contact with other
components.4. Reposition hose.
5. Loose or damaged intermediate shaft or
column.5. Inspect and repair or replace.
CHIRP OR SQUEAL 1. Loose belt. 1. Adjust or replace.
WHINE OR GROWL 1. Low fluid level. 1. Fill to proper level.
2. Pressure hose in contact with other
components.2. Reposition hose.
3. Internal pump noise. 3. Replace pump.
4. Air in fluid 4. Check for lekas, Evacuate air
from P/S system.
SUCKING AIR SOUND 1. Loose return line clamp. 1. Replace clamp.
2. O-ring missing or damaged on hose
fitting.2. Replace o-ring.
3. Low fluid level. 3. Fill to proper level.
4. Air leak between pump and reservoir. 4. Repair as necessary.
5. Reservoir cap not installed correctly. 5. Install reservoir cap correctly.
SCRUBBING OR
KNOCKING1. Wrong tire size. 1. Verify tire size.
19 - 2 STEERINGDR
STEERING (Continued)